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NOTES 


ON 


• 


SPAIN  AND  THE  SPANIARDS, 

In  the  Su^niKK  of  1859, 

WITH    A 

GLANCE  AT  SAEDINIA. 

BY 

A    CAEOLINIAK. 

(J.  J.  r.) 


FOR    riUVATE    CIRCULATION. 


Quid  dignum  momoraro  tuis,  Ilispauia,  tcrris 
Vox  humana  valet? 


CHARLESTOJS  : 

STEAM-rOWEU   PRESSES   OF    EVANS   &    COGSWELL, 
No.  3  Broad  and  10.3  East  Bay  Street. 

1861. 


PEEFACE. 


Another  book  !    Yos,  but  a  small  one,  and  mostly  about  Spain. 

Every  person  thus  assaultinjr  the  Public  should  be  prepared  to  excuse 
himself,  by  stating  the  provocation,  the  purpose,  and  his  capacity  for  exe- 
*  outing  that  purpose.  • 

For  provocation,  I  can  pretend  little  beyond  the  itching  which  tempts 
everyone  to  commune  with  others  about  what  has  profoundly  interested 
himself.  The  book  Avill  show  that  the  offence  has  not  been  committed  with 
malice  aforethought.  Nothing  Avas  further  from  my  intention  on  crossing 
the  Pyrenees  than  to  become  an  author.  I  went  to  Spain  actuated  by  the 
purest  motives  of  selfishness — to  gratify  myself.  On  my  return,  1  was 
strongly  impressed  with  the  erroneous  ideas  prevalent  among  my  acquaint- 
ances upon  this  subject ;  ideas  transmitted  to  us  generally  by  the  often- 
times clever,  but  always  partial  writings  of  English  travellers  and  historians 
(whom  we  should  have  learnt  by  painful  experience  suOieiently  well  to 
appreciate),  and  fostered  by  political  troubles  of  our  own.  The  conception 
we  still  retain  of  the  Spaniard,  notwithstanding  the  many  excellent  pro- 
ductions for  which  the  world  is  indebted  to  our  countrymen,  would  repre- 
sent him  enveloped  in  a  huge  cloak,  shaded  by  a  still  huger  sombrero,  and 
rejoicing  in  a  half-drawn  stiletto,  his  country  devastated  by  the  Inquisition, 
and  the  abode  of  ignorance,  idleness  and  prejudice.  Such  I  have  not 
found  it. 

The  purpose,  therefore,  is  to  portray  the  country  in  the  plain,  unadorned 
light  of  truth,  so  far  as  I  am  able,  without  exaggerating  its  beauties  or  its 
defects;  sometimes  narrating  the  incidents  of  travel  with,  perhaps,  unjus- 
tifiable minuteness,  at  others  indulging  in  generalization,  seeking  an  excuse 
for  its  want  of  method,  its  mixture  of  personal  and  public  concerns,  of 
fact  and  reflection,  in  the  title  which  the  volume  bears.  I  have  not  the 
vanity  of  expecting  or  hoping  to  instruct  such  as  have  been  there  already, 
and  arc  better  acquainted  with  the  Peninsula  than  myself.  My  whole 
ambition  ha.s  been  to  present  it  as  it  appeared  to  me — a  faithful  reflex  of 


258273 


("ONTKNTS. 

tbo  journey.  If,  upon  wmo  faron'd  spot.  I  have  felt  the  spirit  of  the  Past 
upon  nn",  it  has  not  lK>«n  banished  from  the  narrative,  however  inconfiru- 
ou»  tin-  roosaif  miphl  sei-m.  for  tin-  Past  of  Spain  is  perpetually  recurring 
to  the  traveller,  and  ho  who  re;rards  only  the  Present  renounces  half  the 
pl»'a5ure  of  his  op|»orlunity.  It  has  seemed  to  me,  therefore,  most  in  keep- 
ing to  adopt  tlu'  tpi^tolary  •^tylc,  in  substance  if  not  in  appearance,  and  so 
I  have  donr. 

For  <|iialifK-ation,  I  may  say  that,  some  years  ago,  when  more  youthful 
and  impri's>iblc,  I  travelled  there  extensively  under  certain  advantages; 
that  my  lhou(;ht«  since  have  often  been  directed  thither,  and  that  though 
ihr  pH'sent  journey  embraced  a  comparatively  small  extent  of  country,  it 
«?rvfd  to  correct  previous  misconceptions,  and  to  give  me  confidence  in  the 
opinions  I  have  formed.  Upon  one  point  I  have  been  inexorable — in 
n-fraining  from  any  .illusion,  however  remote,  to  sucli  as  have  extended  to 
me  the  courtesies  of  hospitality  or  acrpiaintance,  though  rendered  aware, 
by  the  example  of  Europeans  in  America,  how  much  such  breaches  of  j)ro- 
priety  add  to  the  piipiancy  of  mere  books  of  adventure.  I  conclude  by 
vouching  that  the  following  pages  contain,  in  my  belief,  the  truth  and 
nothing  but  tlic  irutli.  and  as  sufli  T  liavc  vciitiircd  to  give  them  to  the 
public. 

June,  1860. 


CONTENTS, 


Chapter  I. — The  Italian  War. 

Mount  Cenis — Entrance  into  Italy — A  Prisoner  of  War — Feeling  in  Turin — 
Announcement  of  the  Armistice — Of  the  Peace — Sketch  of  Sardinian  Politics 
— Position  of  France — Of  Germany — Austrian  Tyranny — Events  of  the  War 
— French  and  Austrian  Armies — Peace  of  Villafranca — Conduct  of  Russia — 
EflFcct  of  the  War — Ultimate  Aims  of  Napoleon 1 

Chapter  II. — Turin,  by  Genoa  to  Luciion. 

Off  for  Spain — Situation  of  Turin — Novarra — Rice  Plantation — Beauty  of  the 
Country  of  Italy — French  Officers — Approach  to  the  Mediterranean — Gle- 
noa — The  Young  Poictcvine — The  Palaces — Reception  of  the  New.s  of  the 
Peace — Voyage  to  Marseilles — French  Manceuvring  Squadron — Marseilles — 
The  Provcn^-caux — Journey  to  Toulouse — Cette — The  Hungarians — Langue- 
doc — Capt.  Ingraham  .and  Koszta — Carcassone — Toulouse — French  Central- 
ization— Arrive  at  Luchon 17 

Chapter  III.— Bagnerres  De  Luchon. 

Situation  and  Scenery — Historical  Reminiscences — Baths — Company — Guides 
— Lac  d'Oo — Vallee  de  Lys — Boucanere — Val  d'Aran — Departure 36 

Chapter  IV. — Luchon,  by  Barbastro  to  Zaragoza. 

The  Port  de  Venasquc — The  Maladctta — Entrance  into  Spain — Scenery — Vc- 
nasque — The  Ca>>tillian — Change  Guides — Le  Peila  de  Ventimilla — Campo — 
The  Bota — Sta.  Liestra — The  Young  Student — Graus — Scenery  of  Aragon — 
Barbastro — Company  to  Huesca — Sertorious — Arrive  at  Zaragoza 49 

Chapter  V. — Zaragoza — Journey  to  Madrid. 

Maid  of  Zaragoza — Siege — The  Seo — El  Pilar — The  Miracle — Casa  de  Diputa- 
cion — Aragoncse  Liberty  —  Panorama —  Aljafcri.i — Life — Journey — Spanish 
Diligence — Accident — Calatayud — Alcoloa  del  Pin.or — A  Spanish  Beauty — 
Guadalajara — The  Mendozas — Alcalii ...     7.1 


258273 


vi  CONTENTS. 

CnAPTER  \n.— Madrid. 

Lf»d(r»ne«— D.  in<  'tir  Life— Situation  and  Climato— Office  SeckinR— Pucrta  del 
g,,l— Til.'  .'■ui;,..t  "f  Talk— It«  Attractions— Gallegos—Manolii.s—Soeicty — 
Opera  ati'l  Th<air« — Tin-  Madrilofios— Chri!«tnias — La  Noche  Bucua — lIaV)its 

of  Life The  Pra.lo— Kl  I)o»  «ie  .Mayo— Palate — The  Manzanarcs — Academy 

of  Saa  Femsado — The  Mueeo — Tho  Armeria — Street  Scenes !U 

ClCAI'TKU    VII. — Tol.KDO. 

Approarh  to  the  City— M"ori>h  Aspect — Sta.  Cruz  and  the  Alcazar — The  Catbc- 
draJ — The  Mu2aral)» — Tliu  Fi.nda  —  Padilla  and  the  Comuncros — Escalona 
— The  Synagogues — Jews  in  Spain  —  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes — Don  .Julian 
an.i  III  (':iv:i     Mamifiirtor.v  of  Anns — Beautiful  View  of  the  City — General..   122 

CuAi'TKK  VIII. — Madrid  to  Seville. 

Departure — La  .Manclia — Don  Quixote — Entrance  into  Andalusia — La  Carolina 
—  Battle  of  Las  Navas  do  Tolo.«a — Battle  of  Bailen — Andujar — The  Country 
— View  near  Carpio  —  Cordova — ValUy  of  tho  (luadal(iuivir  —  Party  from 
Lora — Approach  to  Seville 140 

C'nAi'TKU  IX. — Seville. 

Hotel — The  Barber — Seek  Lodgings — La  Giralda — TbeBells— Tho  View — Stas. 
Justa  y  llufiua — Promenade — Plaza  Isabel — The  Scene — Costume  of  Span- 
ish Ladies — Mantilla — Fan — Beauty  of  tho  Ladies — Their  Walk — Their 
(Jrace — My  New  Doujicilc — The  Serenos — Las  Dclicias — Morning  ^V;llk — 
Scene  in  Winter — Tho  Guadalciuivir 159 

CiiAi'TER  X. — The  Cathedral  and  Paintings. 

Its  Foundation  —  The  Patio  de  los  Naranjos  —  General  Impression  —  Descrip- 
tion— The  Hetablo  —  Sacred  Music  —  Sculptures  —  Paintings  —  Marshal 
Soult  —  The  Guardian  Angels  —  Tombs  —  Church  Feasts — The  Virgin  — 
Grand  Effect  of  the  Cathedral  —  Paintings  in  La  Caridad  —  The  Museo  — 
Murillo's  Conceptions 177 

Chapter  XI. — The  Alcaz.\r  and  other  Edifices. 

Tho  Alcazar — Don  Pedro  and  Maria  de  Padillo — Casa  de  Pilatos — Tho  Lonja — 
Tho  University — The  Riberas — Tobacco  Manufactory — The  Streets — Flowers 
— Theatre — Dances,  origin,  character — Tho  Funcion — El  OK' — El  Vito — 
Gipsy — Comparison — Religious  and  Social 190 

Chaitku  XII. — Bull  Fights. 

nistorical — Plata  do  Toros — Majo  and  Maja — Tho  Cuadrilla — Description  of 
tho  Corrida— The  Novillos— Embollados- Breeds  and  Qualities  of  tho  Bulls 
— Progress  of  the  Science— Its  morality  ;  its  effect  upon  the  audience;  upon 
the  economy- Tho  Bull  in  Spain— Expense 208 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

CHArTEK  XIII. — Environs. — Historical. 

Environs — Sun  Juan  dc  Alfarachc — Castillcja — Italica — The  Guzmans — Alcala 
— Early  History — "  Spain  " — "  Andalusia  " — "  Seville  " — Al  Mutadcd — Dis- 
covery of  America — Pro-spcrity  of  Seville 228 

CiiAPTER  XIV. — Social  Lu-e. 

Influence  of  Climate  —  Temperance  —  Domestic  Habits — The  Houses — Tcrtulia 
— Spanish  Ladies — Their  Characteristics — Style  of  Beauty — Marriages — Intel- 
ligence— Family  llclations — Historical — Influence  of  the  Virgin — Of  the 
Mohammedan  Religion — Farewell 242 

Chapter  XV.— Cordova. 

Journey — The  Asturiau — Foundation  of  the  Empire — Its  Glory — The  Beni 
Omeyah — Government  —  Subject  Christians  —  The  Mezquita —  Subsequent 
History — Azzabra  —  Abd-er-Eahman  III  —  Almansour — Lamentation  over 
its  Fall —  Distinguished  Men — Osius — Market — General  Appearance  of  the 
City— Horses — The  Schoolboys — Montilla  Wine 264 

Chapter  XVI. — iCordova,  by  Malaga  and  Alhama  to  Granada. 

Depart  with  Arrieros — Goats  —  Historic  Towns  —  Lucena  —  Antequera — Pena 
dc  los  Enamorados — View  from  the  Sierra — Down  the  Valley  to  Malaga — 
Grapes — The  City — Inhabitants  —  Alameda — English  Party — Spanish  Curi- 
osity— Sea  Bathing  —  View  from  the  Water — Visitors  from  the  Springs — 
Journey  to  Granada — Velez  Malaga — Spanish  Riding — Horsemanship — The 
Bull — I  am  Assassinated — Alhama — The  Posada — The  Fair — Fandango — 
Morning  Scenery — Shepherd  Dogs — The  Sick  Morisco — Hog  Lottery — Ap- 
proach to  Granada 285 

Chapter  XVII. — Granada. 

Bull  Fight — Cruelty — Promenades — The  Inhabitants — Moorish  Blood — Alham- 
bra — The  Hand  and  the  Kcj' — Patio  de  la  Albcrca — Dc  Los  Leones — Tociidor 
— Restorations — View  from  the  Torre  do  la  Vela — The  Vega — Generalife— ^ 
The  Cathedral — Chapel  of  the  Kings — The  Cartuja — San  Juan  De  Dios — 
Old  Streets — Albaycin — The  Gipsies — The  Dance — Expulsion  of  the  Moriseoes 
— Romantic  Character  of  their  Wars — Origin  of  Chivalry — Pundonor 307 

Chapter  XVTII. — Granada,  by  Jaen  to  Madrid. 

Puerto  dc  Arenas — Approach  to  Jaen — View  from  the  Castle — The  Paseo — 
To  Bailen — Menjibar — Despefiaperros — Leave  Andalusia — La  Mancha — Oil 
Jars — Beggars — Arrive  at  Madrid 333 

Chapter  XIX. — Madrid  Auain. 

Second  Impression — The  Fire — Spanish  School  of  Painting — Apartado  of 
the  Bulls — Procession  to  Atocha — Ambassadorial  Quarrel — Escorial 341 


VIII  <MNTKNT.s. 

iuAiirii   XX. — Madrid  to  Buncos. 

I>«pMlaro— Tbc  Counirj — Somo  Sierra — View  over  New  Castile — First  Iraprcs- 
»ion  of  gp*in— Anuid*— Lcrm» — Burgos— Lax  lluclgas— Miraflores— Car- 
«JcD»— T'.-  I  -i •■!J9 

Chakiku  XXI. — HuuGos  to  thk  Fkontiek. 

Jotirtxv  t  .  I'nncorbo — Battli-  <>f  Vitoria — FruDfih  Marshals — Vitoria — The 
Ba^cjui  F  iinil  Uuir  Fucrog — The  Pyrenees — Dangers  of  an  Upset— National 
l»n<l»-  7.uii.;ilii<:irri'gui  —  Appearance  of  the  People  —  .San  Sebastian — Inin 
— Tbt   li niarna  —  France 300 

CuAi'TEU  XXII. — Gkmojial. 

Political  LHvigiong  —  States  Rights  —  Self-Esteem  and  Loyalty  —  l\rdin:iinl 
VII — The  Carlists — Revolution  of  1854 — Espartero — O'Doniiel — The  Nobil- 
ity— Grandees — Number — Character — Liberality  in  Politics — Wealth  and 
Povcrt}' — The  Spanish  People — Dignity  and  Worth — Middle  and  Industrial 
Classes — Pride — Indolence — Want  of  Respect  for  Life — Independence  of 
Money — Beggars 374 

ClIAl'TKK  XXIII. — GeNKUAL  CONTINUED. 

The  Church — Reforms — Religious  Sincerity  of  the  Spaniards — The  Army — 
The  Press — Internal  Improvements — Police — Political  M'ants SUS 

Chapteu  XXIV. — Political. 

Our  Troubles  with  Spain — Anglo-Saxunism — Entente  Cunlinle  Directed  Against 
US  by  England — Filibusters — Spanish  Political  Desires — Means  of  Acciuiring 
Cuba  Honorably  —  Standing  of  Americans  in  Europe  —  Influence  of  our 
Diplomatic  Corps — Our  Position  in  Spain — Adios 415 


Chapter  I. 
THE     ITALIAN    WAE. 

Mount  Cenis — Entrance  into  Italy — A  Prisoner  of  War — Feeling  in  Turin — An- 
nouncement of  the  Armistice — Of  the  Peace — Sketch  of  Sanlinian  Politics — 
Position  of  France — Of  Germany — Austrian  Tyranny — Events  of  the  War — 
French  and  Austrian  Armies — Peace  of  Villafranca — Conduct  of  Russia — EfiFect 
of  the  War — Ultimate  Aims  of  Napoleon. 

It  was  Oil  the  night  of  the  4th  of  July,  1859,  that  I  crossed 
Mount  Ccni.s,  on  the  Avay  to  Turin.  Though  the  precise  date 
■was  a  matter  of  accident,  its  associations  were  in  happy  unison 
with  the  ohject  of  the  journey  and  the  sentiments  which 
prompted  me.  It  was  my  birtluhiy;  l)ut  far  more,  it  was  the 
day  that  ushered  into  life  my  native  land — a  day  ever  memor- 
able in  the  history  of  the  world — not  so  much  because  it  had 
added  another  to  the  ftimily  of  nations,  as  because  it  liad  an- 
nounced, amid  the  crack  of  rifles  and  the  groans  of  expiring 
patriots,  the  great  principle,  that  every  people  has  an  inalien- 
able right  of  self-government,  without  responsibility  to  aught 
on  earth,  save  such  as  may  be  imposed  by  a  due  respect  for  the 
opinions  of  mankind.  Once  more  this  great  battle  was  to  be 
fought,  no  longer  in  the  wilds  of  the  American  forest,  but  on 
land  renowned  through  all  ages,  and  rendered  sacred  by  recol- 
lections of  intellect,  art  and  religion.  Now,  as  then,  a  tyrant 
empire  had,  with  vain  boastings,  poured  her  legions  upon  a 
devoted  land  ;  now,  as  then,  the  oppressed  few,  forgetting  their 
dissensions,  had  risen  to  burst  their  chains  asunder;  and  now, 
too,  as  then,  a  great  nation,  the  generous  French,  were  rushing 
with  disciplined  battalions  to  aid  struggling,  expiring  humanity. 
It  was  certainl}'  humiliating  that  so  large  a  portion  of  Europe 
should  have  remained  unsyinpathizing  spectators  of  the  contest. 
On  the  part  of  an  American,  acquiescence  in  such  neutrality 
would  have  been  treason  against  nature.  Inspired  by  these  sen- 
timents, I  was  hurrying  with  what  speed  I  might  to  offer  my 


2  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPAMAKHS. 

services  to  the  Sardiiiiaii  (iovornment,  and  to  ask  the  privilege 
of  serving  as  a  volunteer  in  her  armies — perhaps  a  foolish 
errand,  if  measured  bj'  the  ideas  of  this  unromantic  century. 
No  emotion  of  mv  life  was  ever  so  pure,  so  free  from  every 
shade  of  conscientious  doultt  or  selfish  consideration.  At  the 
distance  of  four  thousand  miles,  we  Avcre  ha])])i]y  ignorant  of 
the  underhand  intrigues,  if  any  there  were,  which  so  frequently 
disgust  one  in  the  turmoil  of  politics.  I  saw  but  the  spectacle 
of  an  injured  people  struggling,  as  America  ha'l  done,  to  throw 
off  tlie  j^oke  of  a  foreign  and,  comparatively,  barbarous  oppres- 
sor, and  as  we  passed  battalion  after  battalion  of  brave  French, 
slowly  ascending  the  mountain,  I  felt  toward  them  all  the  fer- 
vor of  youth,  tired  by  the  grateful  ti-aditions  of  eighty  years 
ago. 

The  rays  of  the  Avestern  sun  beat  with  their  utmost  intensity 
upon  the  troops,  many  of  whom,  particularly  the  younger  ones, 
appeared  utterly  exhausted.  The  effect  of  the  heat  in  rendering 
them  deaf  was  remarkable.  The}"  would  frequently  be  first 
made  aware  of  our  approach  by  feeling  the  horses'  breath  upon 
their  necks.  We  aided  them  as  much  as  lay  in  our  power  by 
taking  their  knapsacks,  which  were  hung  about  on  the  dili- 
gence, giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  pedlar's  wagon. 
There  were  several  battalions  of  the  line,  one  of  chasseurs  de 
Vincennes,  and  some  squadrons  of  cavalry  scattered  along,  the 
men  by  no  means  large,  but  of  well-developed  muscles  and  pre- 
possessing countenances.  As  night  came  on  they  halted  to 
camp,  and  we  continued  our  joui'iioy  alone.  The  snow  still 
lingered  on  the  summit  of  the  Pass,  but  descending  about  three 
o'clock,  we  suddenly  turned  to  the  east,  and  the  hot  air  smote 
us  as  from  an  oven's  mouth.  A\''e  were  in  Italy.  Soon  the  gor- 
geous vegetation  of  the  southern  slopes  of  the  Alps  appeared 
to  delight  our  eyes,  the  morning  breeze  springing  up  saluted  us 
with  the  refreshing  odors  of  the  tropics,  and  amid  vineyards  and 
well-cultivated  lands  we  wound  our  way  down  the  mountain  to 
the  railroad  station  at  Susa,  where  1  was  charmed  to  get  rid  of 
a  fat,  vulgar,  French  commis,  who  had  been  ver^-  brave  and 
warlike  until  we  commenced  the  descent;  it  then  became  neces- 
sar}'  lor  him  and  the  conductor  to  exchange  words  as  to  the 
projd-r  speed  of  the  diligence,  such  was  the  creature's  fears  of 
being  precipitated  over  the  pai-apet.  A  few  hours  more  brought 
us  to  Turin.     On  entering  the  station  I  saw  a  new  sight,  which 


A    PRISONER    OF    AVAR.  6 

made  a  strange  impression  upon  me  at  the  time — a  prisoner  of 
Avar.     I  can  scarcely  describe  the  painful  eifect  it  produced.     A 
dead  man  is  simply  a  man  dead — nothing  uncommon.    All  men 
are  mortal,  and  a  few  years  more  or  l6ss  matter  little,  but  hei-e 
was  a  train  filled  with  beings  who  had  deserved  well  of  their 
country,  and  perhaps  even  acquired   the  respect  of  their  con- 
querors, who  were  yet  deprived  of  that  dearest  of  all  liberties — 
the  liberty  of  locomotion.      It  furnished  food  for  reflection  :   for 
of  all  the  misfortunes  of  Avar,  this  seemed  to  me  the  most  dire- 
ful, involving  the  loss  of  honor  and  liberty  alike.    On  our  train 
was  a  party  of  conscripts  from  Savoy,  who  had  been  in   high 
glee  all  the  Avay,  singing  and  rejoicing  at  the  prospect  of  en- 
countering the  enemy.     The  meeting  betAveen  them  and  the 
Austrians   Avas   amusing.     The   latter,  as   far   as  I  could  see, 
appeared  quite  contented  Avith  their  lot,  and  receiA'ed  the  good- 
humored  raillery  of  their  victors  Avith  smiles.     The  sight  Avas 
refreshing  to  humanity — this    sejiaration  of  the    CxOA^ernment 
from  the  individual ;  but  there  Avas  something  unnatural  in  it, 
and  I  Avould  have  been  far  better  pleased  to  see  theuT  scowling 
from  the  Avindows  of  their  prison,  as  th(»ugh    they   had   felt   a 
conviction  of  the  Justice  of  their  cause,  and  a  ])ersonal  ii\terest 
in  its  success.     But  such  can  only  be  in  Republics,  Avhere  those 
Avho  declare  the  Avar  fight  the  battles.     Leaving  the  prisoners 
to  their  fate,  I  entered  a  little  omnibus — one  of  the  blessings 
Avhich  the  last  ten  3'ears  h.ave  conferred  upon  Turin — and  in  a 
few  minutes  was  comfortably  lodged  in  an  old  palace,  noAv  eon- 
verted  into  a  hotel,  the  apparently  inevitable  fate  of  such  struc- 
tures in  Italy. 

As  it  Avas  still  early,  I  sallied  forth  into  the  streets.  The  city 
presented,  in  one  respect,  a  striking  aspect — the  total  absence 
of  young  men  :  all  Avere  gone  to  the  Avars.  The  better  class  of 
ladies,  too,  had  disappeared  from  the  promenade — for  they  had 
either  lost  or  Averc  in  daily  apprehension  of  losing  some  dear 
friend.  The  Avar  news  Avas,  of  course,  the  absorbing  topic  of 
couA'crsation  among  the  men,  Avho  collected  under  the  Arcades 
and  in  the  Cafes,  discussing  the  chances  Avith  anxious  counte- 
nances. Tliey  felt  confident  of  ultimate  success.  Enthusiasm 
pervaded  all  classes;  nor  Avas  it  the  enthusiasm  Avhich  delights 
in  loud  boasts  and  empt}'  professions,  but  that  much  more  val- 
uable qualitj'  Avhich,  having  counted  the  necessary  sacrifices, 
devotes  itself  to  the  accomplishment  of  a  great  Avork.      Mere 


itr/ 


4  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SrA.MAUDS. 

isocial  intercourse  could,  therefore,  bo  scarce!}-  said  to  exist. 
Over  the  city  reigned  the  breathless  calm  which  precedes  a 
convulsion — for  any  moment  might  l)ring  news  of  another  and, 
perhaps,  tinal  struggle  uudcr  the  walls  of  Verona.  In  the  midst 
of  this  state  of  suspense,  the  public  ear  was  suddenly  startled 
Ity  the  rumor  of  an  armistice  to  be  granted  at  the  urgent  request 
of  the  Emperor  of  the  French.  Words  cannot  express  the  aston- 
ishment of  the  community  ujjou  learning  that  the  (Joneralissimo 
of  the  allied  armies  had  paused  in  the  heiglit  of  success  to  crave 
a  delay  which  could  only  operate  in  favor  of  the  weaker  party, 
by  affording  them  an  opportunity  of  recovering  from  their  de- 
moralization. As  Kapoleon  had  never  3-et  acted  without  some 
adequate  motive,  there  was  a  general  disposition  to  suspend 
Judgment  upon  the  armistice  until  the  press  should  communi- 
cate the  reasons.  None  were  given,  and  the  world  was  left  to 
conjecture  what  advantage  could  accrue  to  the  Allies  which, 
by  an}-  possibility,  might  compensate  for  the  injustice  of  leaving 
Venetia  exposed  to  the  forced  loan  lately  decreed.  A  large 
majority  still  felt  unabated  confidence  in  the  ultimate  accom- 
plishment of  the  famous  programme,  "  From  the  Alps  to  the 
Adriatic."  The  cold,  unimpassioned  nature  of  Napoleon,  the 
calculating  prudence  with  which  he  had  hitherto  conceived, 
the  tenacity  with  which  he  had  maintained,  the  skill  with 
which  he  had  executed  evciy  pglitical  plan,  rendered  them  sure 
of  the  fulfilment  of  the  late  promises.  In  this  belief  they  were 
confirmed  by  the  vigorous  preparations  made  for  continuing 
the  contest.  A  few  far-seeing  politicians  began  already  to  sus- 
pect that  the  armistice  was  preliminary  ro  some  arrangement, 
whereby  France  and  Austria  might  be  united  against  any 
power  that  should  prove  disagreeable  in  the  future  settlement 
of  Eui-ope,  but  they  were  in  a  small  minority.  These  doubts 
were  soon  solved  by  the  announcement  of  the  Peace  of  Villa- 
franca.  Its  announcement  fell  like  a  thunderbolt.  The  first 
impression  was  a  stupefaction.  Men  stared  at  each  other  in 
gaping  wonder,  as  though  their  senses  were  unable  to  compre- 
hend the  intelligence.  To  this  succeeded  a  furious  outburst  of 
indignation  against  the  Emperor  Napoleon.  Execrations  Avere 
poured  upon  his  name  and  race.  The  late  idol  had  been  trans- 
formed into  a  hideous  dcjnon.  His  portrait  was  withdrawn 
from  the  shop  windows,  and  it  is  said  that  Orsini's  appeared. 
This  may  be  true,  though  I  did  not  see  it  myself,  but  it  must 


ANNOUNCEMENT    OP   THE    PEACE.  0 

not  be  forgotten  that  Orsini  is  regarded  l\y  veiy  respectable 
persons  in  Ital}*  as  a  Brutus,  nobly  saerilioing  himself  for  the 
good  of  his  eoiintrj,  rather  than  a  fanatical  assassin,  -which  is 
his  position  in  America.  Bitter  comparisons  were  instituted 
between  the  glorious  proclamations  with  which  the  French 
army  bad  crossed  the  Alps  and  their  impotent  conclusion. 
Every  wild  and  impracticable  scheme  was  suggested ;  some 
even  proposed  to  continue  the  war  alone.  But  the  rage  of 
indignant  Italy  was  fruitless — lur  it  was  worse  than  folly  to 
suppose  that  Sardinia  coiild  contend  single-banded  with  Aus- 
tria, aided,  perhaps,  by  France.  The  war,  for  the  present,  was 
ended.  In  the  midst  of  all  this  excitement,  there  was  one 
feature  highly  creditable  to  the  Sardinians — the  generous, 
unselfish  manner  in  which  the  news  was  received.  Their  own 
country,  Lombardy,  Tuscany,  Romagna,  Avere  forgotten  in  uni- 
versal commiseration  for  the  condition  of  Venice,  so  cruelly 
abandoned  to  the  oppressions  of  the  common  tyrant,  thrust 
back,  as  it  were,  into  the  vindictive  jaws  of  the  monster.  The 
sentiment  was  expressed  in  every  way  known  to  the  heart. 
Among  the  poetical  etfusions,  was  one  peculiarly  beautiful  upon 
the  separation  of  the  two  sisters,  Lombardy  and  Venitia,  which 
I  regret  not  having  preserved.  A  ])rofound  gloom  shrouded  the 
city  as  though  it  had  been  overwhelmed  by  some  terrible  disas- 
ter. The  Bourse  fell,  not  from  want  of  contidence,  but  because 
the  purchasers  were  in  mourning;  it  was  not  a  time  to  buy  and 
sell.  There  was  no  marrA-ing  or  giving  in  marriage  that  day  in 
Turin. 

The  war,  so  far  as  it  involved  external  enemies  was,  in  my 
opinion,  hopelesslj^  over,  for  the  fifty  thousand  French  soldiers 
that  were  to  be  left  in  Parma,  Modena  and  Tuscany  Avould  re- 
press any  attempt  at  a  popular  movement  in  those  Provinces, 
and  the  accumulation  of  Austrian  troops  in  Venetia  rendered 
idle  all  thought  of  insurrection  there.  Nor  was  it  probable 
that  France  and  Austria  would  re-commence  hostilities  imme- 
diately. A  civil  war  between  the  Bolognese  and  the  Papal 
troops  was  much  more  within  the  range  of  possibilities.  But 
for  a  foreigner  to  interfere  in  any  such  contest  would  not  only 
be  impertinent  but  unwise,  as  in  these  conflicts  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  find  out  the  truth,  much  less  to  strike  the  balance  of 
right,  so  I  concluded  to  spend  the  summer  in  some  agreealtle 
country,  within  call  in  case  of  a  renewal  of  hostilities,  when 


G  SPAIN    ANIJ    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

tin*  Opportunity  would  Ir-  ivncwed  of  whicli  the  armistice  or 
rather  the  peace  had  deprived  lue.  It  wouhl,  however,  be 
scarcely  adinisniblc  to  leave  Italy  without  a  word  upon  the 
events  of  the  summer. 

The  ill-advised  campaiifu  of  1841>.  which  ended  with  tiu'  l»:it- 
tle  of  Xovarra,  placed  Sardinia  at  the  feet  of  Kadetsky.  and 
had  not  France,  aided  by  lMii;land,  interposed  to  arrest  the 
progress  of  the  Atistrian  anus,  it  is  more  than  ))robabie  that 
their  domination  would  have  extended  from  Turin  to  Messina. 
Mouthini;  <iema^ogues,  useless  there  as  elsewhere  for  jiractieal 
good,  had,  against  the  opinion  of  ever}'  sensible  patiiot,  pre- 
cijiitated  their  country  to  the  brink  of  the  abyss.  The  ambas- 
sadors of  France  and  ilngland  protested  against  the  movement 
in  advance  upon  Lombardy.  Thu  reply  was:  "Will  you  guar- 
anty the  existence  of  the  monarchy?  for  further  resistance  to 
this  agitation  will  cost  us  the  throne,  and  wc  will  be  as  far 
as  ever  from  the  object  of  jour  wishes — the  preservation  of 
peace."  As  such  a  guaranty  was  impossible,  under  the  circum- 
stances, the  drama  was  played  out  to  its  catastrophe.  Fortu- 
natfly,  the  iii(lej)endence  of  this  corurr  <»f  Italy  was  saveil 
from  the  general  wreck,  and  from  it  Italy  is  destined  to  be 
regenerated,  gradually,  perhajis,  but  as  surely  as  Spain  wns 
from  the  mountains  of  the  Asturias.  The  demagogues  having 
been  fairly  tried,  and  found  wanting,  gave  way  to  honester 
men,  and  the  woi"k  of  regeneration  commenced.  I'pon  the 
abdication  of  Charles  Albert,  Victor  Emanuel  asceiuled  tlie 
throne,  fresh  from  the  bloody  tield  where  the  Italian  cause  had 
gone  down.  Never  for  a  moment  has  he  swerved  from  the 
role  which  his  good  fortune  cast  upoii  him.  Conscientiously 
has  he  maintained  his  coronation  oath  as  a  constitutional  king, 
and  with  e<jual  firmness  has  he  lultilled  the  duty,  to  which  he 
was  bound  by  no  wi-itten  oath,  of  inspiriting  a  new  life  into 
his  whole  country.  The  i)articular  line  of  policy,  j)ursued 
with  consistent  and  masterly  statesmanship,  is  probably  due  to 
Count  Cavour,  and  was  a  hajipy  combination  of  ]>assive  and 
active  warfare.  The  former  consisted  in  offering  to  Italy  and 
entin-  Kurope  the  spectacle  of  an  llalian  nation  enjoying  the 
advantages  of  self-government,  alilie  removed  from  the  vio- 
lence and  anarchy  oi'  Democracy  and  the  tyranny  of  military- 
dictatorship.  The  latter  in  sustaining  the  spirit  of  tlie  Italian 
patriots   l»y   every   means    which   <lij)lomacy  could    suggest   or 


rOSITION    OF    FRANCE.  t 

excuse,  and  allowiiiii;  no  new  outra<;-e  on  the  part  of  Austria  to 
pass  without,  at  least,  a  protest.  Tlie  last,  and  not  the  least, 
precaution  consisted  in  enlisting  the  moral  support  of  France 
and  England,  previous  to  every  important  step.  The  contin- 
gent furnished  to  the  Crimean  war  was  thus  a  skilfully  con- 
ceived idea,  as.  hesides  gratifying  the  Allies,  it  necessarily 
procured  the  admission  of  the  Sardinian  plenipotentiaries  into 
the  Paris  Congress,  and  gave  France,  England  and  llussia  an 
opportunity-  of  protesting  against  the  Austrian-Italian  system, 
though  from  widel}^  ditFerent  motives.  The  world  knows  how 
admirably  the  whole  plan  succeeded.  The  e3'es  of  all  Italian 
patriots  wei-e  turned  incessantly  towards  Sardinia,  which  rep- 
resented throughout  Europe  the  Italian  idea,  the  heart;  to 
Austria  were  left  onl}-  the  manacle  and  the  bayonet. 

The  interest  of  France  in  the  Italian  question,  to  a  certain 
extent,  is  patent.  The  rivalry  which,  in  ages  past,  caused 
such  bloody  wars  upon  these  very  fields  still  exists,  and  will 
continue  to  exist,  so  long  as  Austria  maintains  a  footing  south 
of  the  Alps.  Nor  can  any  French  Government  look  Avith 
indifference  upon  the  extension  of  either  the  influence  or  terri- 
tory of  its  hereditary  eneni}-  towards  the  south-eastern  fron- 
tier. It  is  a  feeling,  therefore,  which  partakes  both  of  the  past 
and  present,  and  the  Avarnings  of  histor^^  upon  this  subject 
cannot  be  safely  disregai-ded  by  the  statesmen  of  St.  Cloud. 
But  I  am  disposed  to  give  Napoleon  himself  more  credit  for 
sentiment  in  the  matter  than  is  generally  done.  It  is  only 
natural  that  he  should  desire  to  be  the  benefactor  of  the  land 
whence  his  family  derive  their  origin.  He  is  too  exi)ericnced 
not  to  see  that,  after  the  brilliant  career  of  the  first  Emperor, 
something  more  than  mere  military  glor}^  must  be  his  distin- 
guishing merit  with  posterity.  He  has  manifested  a  determin- 
ation to  batter,  undermine,  dcstro}',  by  every  means  in  his 
power  the  treaties  of  1815,  which  were  directed  principally 
against  his  famil}'  and  country.  But  I  believe  he  is  really 
ambitious  of  advancing  humanit}-,  so  far  as  that  can  be  done 
cor.sistently  with  the  maintenance  of  Bonapartist  ideas.  The 
Italian  Avar,  moreover,  coincided  Avith  his  avoAved  policj-  of 
uniting  the  so-called  Latin  nations  under  the  lead  of  France — 
constituting  a  moral,  if  not  a  geograi)hical,  empire.  Of  course, 
most  persons  having  control  of  half  a  million  soldiers  Avould 
like  to  make  a  trial  of  their  skill;  but  he  is  too  politic  to  stake 


8  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIAUDS. 

much  upon  so  uncertain  a  venture,  merely  for  tlie  pleasure  of 
playing  at  the  game  of  war.  It  soon  became  apparent  to  hoth 
France  and  Italy,  that  a  collision  was  possible,  if  not  inevit- 
able, and  that  Jealousy  of  the  former  power  might  perhaps 
enlist  a  certain  portion  of  Europe  in  behalf  of  Austria.  Napo- 
leon, following  the  example  of  the  wise  steward,  sought  to 
make  friends  against  that  contingency.  The  Tory  administra- 
tion of  England  having  scouted  the  idea  of  an  alliance,  secret 
application  was  made  to  Ilussia,  who,  to  avenge  hersglf  upon 
Austria,  most  willingly'  accepted  the  office  of  "keeping  the 
crowd  olf,"  as  they  say  in  the  backwoods,  and  letting  the  par- 
ties tight  it  out  fairly.  I  do  not  think  that  the  Emperor  of  the 
French  expected  war,  certainly  not  so  soon ;  but  he  had  made 
every  possible  preparation.  Herein  did  he  show  consummate 
skill  as  a  ruler;  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  those  imbecile 
fatuities,  who  are  ever  ready  to  plunge  in  without  first  count- 
ing the  cost,  or  taking  the  slightest  precaution  against  defeat. 
The  conduct  of  Austria  in  taking  the  initiative  can  hardly 
be  pronounced  impolitic,  as  the  ultimate  choice  lay  between 
war  and  a  Congress,  and  the  latter  would  certainly  have  been 
fatal  to  her  influence.  It  is  true,  that  b}-  placing  herself  in 
the  aggressive,  she  gave  lukewarm  friends  an  excuse  for  declin- 
ing to  step  forth  in  her  behalf;  but  upon  whom  could  she  rely? 
Many  persons  in  England  did,  and  do  still,  doubt  the  capacity 
of  the  Italians  for  self-government;  but  the  English  people 
never  would  have  tolerated  a  war  simply  for  the  purpose  of 
ui)liol(liiig- Austrian  usurpations,  and  after  the  reiterated  de- 
nials by  the  French  Government  of  any  intention  of  acquiring 
an  increase  of  territory  for  France,  there  would  have  remained 
no  other  excuse  for  interference,  (rerraany,  headed  by  Prussia, 
played  apparently  a  hesitating  and  very  undignified  part,  but 
such  was  unavoidable.  The  Germans  had  a  just  want  of  confi- 
dence in  and  an  apprehension  of  Napoleon,  and  were,  therefore, 
not  disposed  to  see  Austria  defeated  and  cowed  by  him ;  but 
they  felt  an  equal  detestation  of  Austria,  and  would  have  been 
delighted  to  see  her  driven  out  of  Italy  by  the  Italians.  The 
more  clear-sighted,  moreover,  believed  that  even  for  the  pur- 
l)Ose  of  resisting  French  aggression,  she  would  be  much  more 
available  after  her  unsound  Italian  members  bad  been  lopped 
off  than  before.  It  was  impossible  for  Prussia  to  take  any 
decided  part  until  the  war  reached  the  frontier  of  Germany, 


THE    NATURE    OF    AUSTRIAN    TYRANNY.  M 

more  particularly  since  Russia  Avas  prepared  to  pour  an  army 
corps  across  the  Polish  border  at  the  first  movement.  The 
loud  school-boy  cries  uttered  by  Austria  after  the  peace,  that 
her  friends  had  not  helped  her,  were,  therefore,  not  only  undi<5- 
nified,  but  unjust,  as  she  was  in  a  position  which  precluded  any 
honest  sympathy.  In  view  of  all  these  circumstances,  I  must 
think  that  her  policy  of  sudden  invasion,  before  the  Allies  could 
finish  their  preparations,  Avas  bold,  perhaps  desperate,  but  well 
conceived,  as  it  offered  the  additional  advantage  of  relieving 
her  from  the  immense  cost  of  constant  expectation,  which  her 
exhausted  credit  could  ill  sustain. 

The  question  has  been  mooted  whether  Sardinia  were  justi- 
fiable in  provoking  the  war,  but  of  this  I  cannot  entertain  the 
shadow  of  a  doubt.  I  consider  the  presence  of  an  Austrian 
soldier  in  Italy  as  a  constant  cause  of  resistance — a  standing 
grievance.  The  nature  of  the  Austrian  tyranny  is  not  per- 
fectly^ understood  in  America.  Up  to  the  period  of  the  reac- 
tion which  followed  the  downfall  of  Napoleon,  the  Austrian 
Government  truly  merited  the  name  of  patriarchal.  The  mild- 
ness, the  unaffected  simplicity  of  its  rule,  its  respect  for  vested 
right  were  universall}-  acknowledged.  Then  the  ncAV  ideas 
began  to  ferment.  Progress  is  the  child  of  education  and  intel- 
ligence. It  was,  therefore,  only  among  the  educated  intelligent 
classes  that  these  ideas  took  root.  In  an  unfortunate  hour  for 
the  Government,  it  adopted  the  S3'stem  of  Metternich.  which 
he  had  borrowed  from  Napoleon,  and  which  consisted  in  the 
repression  b}'  armed  force  of  all  libertj''  of  intellect.  Fouche 
re-appeared  with  his  legion  of  spies.  After  the  Eevolution  of 
1848,  this  detestable  scheme  became  a  mania.  The  laborer 
who  contented  himself  with  the  plough  or  last,  cannot  be  said 
to  have  been  oppressed.  Rather  the  contrary,  for  the  effort 
was  to  break  down  the  influence  and  authority  of  the  better 
classes  over  this  very  population.  But  let  any  one,  high  or  low, 
aspire  to  the  impertinent  liberty  of  thinking  for  himself,  and 
he  became  at  once  an  object  of  suspicion  to  the  police.  The 
fundamental  laws  of  the  empire  were  rudely  broken,  with  the 
hope  of  reducing  all  to  a  hopeless,  savourless,  aV>ject  equality 
of  servitude.  The  sUme  polic}',  with  twofold  stringency.  Avas 
extended  to  Italy.  The  peasant,  who  tilled  his  land  and  ate 
his  grapes,  and  sang  and  danced  in  the  cool  evening,  was  a 
favorite,  and,  in  manj-  respects,  fared  better  than  under  the 


10  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    .srAXIARDS. 

effete  noljility,  who  onjoyed  u  monopoly  of  tlic  soil.  But  woe 
to  him  who  thought  that  man  wa*  endowed  with  intelligence 
for  other  and  higher  ends  I  For  such  there  was  no  mercy  : 
every  sjjecies  of  obloquy  and  insult  was  heaped  upon  them, 
and,  unfortunately,  they  comprised  the  most  influential  portion 
of  a  j)c)j)nlation  whoso  lively  imaginations,  excited  h}'  the  con- 
tinual contt'mjilalion  of  the  memorials  of  past  freedom,  would 
not  permit  them  to  remain  content  with  the  lot  of  mere  hewers 
of  wood  and  drawers  of  water.  Surely  the  patriots  who  at- 
tempted to  procure  for  their  country  a  nobler  future,  need  no 
apology  to  an  American  public.  It  will  thus  appear  why  the 
Austrians,  not  entirely  without  reason,  counted  upon  a  party 
among  the  peasantr}-,  though  the  doors  of  ever}'  respectable 
house  in  Milan  and  Venice  were  closed  against  them,  and  ladies 
refrained  from  appearing  on  the  public  promenades,  lest  they 
should  be  insulted  by  courtesies  from  their  hated  oppressors. 
The  dearest  luxuries  of  life  were  resigned  merel}"  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  a  demonstration.  On  one  occasion,  the  whole 
population  gave  up  the  use  of  tobacco,  to  prove  their  uncon- 
querable determination  of  embarrassing  the  Government  by 
every  means  in  their  power,  while,  by  way  of  counter-demon- 
stration, soldiers  and  police  agents  were  required  to  smoke  in 
])ul)lic  on  all  occasions.  Man}'  found  a  melancholy  pleasure  in 
subscribing  to  the  monument  on  the  Citadel  square  at  Turin, 
or  the  armament  of  Alessandria,  both  of  which  produced  vio- 
lent recrimination  on  the  part  of  Austria.  Such  was  the  situa- 
tion of  affairs  when  the  cloud  of  war  burst. 

The  energy  displayed  by  Austria  in  commencing  hostilities 
was  short-lived.  Some  obstacles  prevented  the  entire  success 
of  the  plan,  but  there  was  scarcely  a  sufficient  military  reason 
for  not  throwing  ahead  at  least  a  sti'ong  advanced  guard, 
which  might  have  done  intinite  mischief,  and  perhaps  have 
taken  Turin,  for  the  Allies  were  evidently  surprised,  and  once 
at  Turin,  it  might  have  lain  like  a  huge  armadillo,  and  di-awn 
in  the  French  contingents  as  they  successively  arrived.  The 
inaction  which  ensued  at  Austrian  headquarters,  had  the  ap- 
])earance  of  paralysis.  The  whole  advantage  of  the  forward 
movement  was  lost,  and  time  was  afforded  for  the  concentration 
of  a  respectable  force  advancing  simultaneously  by  way  of 
Susa  and  Genoa  upon  their  left  flanks.  Then  came  the  battle 
of  Montebello,  fought,  as  Gen.  Giulay  said  iu  his  despatch,  to 


CAUSES    OF    THE    DEFEAT    OF    THE    AUSTRIANS.  11 

make  the  enemy  develope  bis  force.  If  tluit  Avere  his  object,  it 
must  be  confessed  be  succeeded  admirably,  'i'his  was  followed 
by  Palestro,  where  Victor  Emanuel  proved  himself  to  be  the 
first  in  war,  as  he  had  been  in  peace.  Then  came  the  beautiful 
turning  of  the  Austrian  right  flank,  and  the  battle  of  Magenta, 
in  which  the  gallant  MacMahon,  mananivring  principally  for 
the  safety  of  his  own  corj)8.  had  the  good  luck  to  cause  the 
utter  defeat  of  the  enemy,  and  was  rewarded  with  the  Baton 
of  Marshal  and  the  title  of  Duke.  The  great  battle  of  Solfc- 
rino  crowned  the  whole.  In  a  military  point  of  view,  the 
campaign  was  most  remarkable.  The  Austrians  fought  well 
and  braveh',  and  with  the  energy  of  despair,  for  their  officers 
had  strangely  enough  inoculated  them  with  the  idea,  that  if 
taken  prisoners  they  would  either  be  murdered  in  cold  blood 
and  devoured  by  the  Turcos,  or  poisoned.  Days  after  the 
battle  of  Palestro,  many  were  dragged  half-starved  from  places 
of  concealment,  who  refused  to  drink  wine  or  other  colored 
fluid  from  the  hands  of  their  captors.  Their  being  so  com- 
pletely out-witted  in  strategy  is  partly  OAving  to  the  fact,  that 
the}'  with  difficulty  procured  any  information  of  the  enemy's 
movements,  Avliile  they  could  scarcely  parade  without  its  being 
as  Avell  known  at  the  Allied  headquarters  as  at  their  own;  and 
subsequent  developments  have  shown  that  even  some  of  their 
Generals  were  in  French  pay.  Another  great  cause  Avas  the 
Avant  of  ui\ity  in  the  command,  for,  as  Napoleon  says,  "in  Avar 
men  are  nothing:  one  man  is  CA^ery thing."  In  this  respect 
the  state  of  aff'air.s  in  the  Austrian  camp  Avas  lamentable,  and 
Gen.  Giulay  received  great  blame  for  a  A^acillation,  Avhich,  in  all 
probability,  Avas  attributable  to  the  Council  of  "War  at  A'ienna, 
rather  than  to  him. 

But  still  the  difficult}'  remains  of  explaining  hoAv,  in  a  suc- 
cession of  pitched  battles,  the}^  Avere  iuA'ariably  defeated.  Ac- 
cording to  theNapoleonists,  it  Avas  due  to  the  rifled  cannon,  but 
in  many  of  the  encounters  they  Avere  not  used.  Others  attrib- 
ute their  success  to  the  innate  superiority  of  the  French. 
Quien  snbe.  The  fact  is  incontestable  that  the  Austrians  Avere 
most  outrageously  l)caten.  In  one  respect,  the  experience  of 
the  Avar  Avas  very  diff'erent  frorii  Avhat  had  been  anticipated. 
The  invention  of  the  Minie  ball  and  the  rifled  cannon  Avould, 
it  was  thought,  aljolish  caA'aliy  and  reduce  infantry  charges 
within  a  small  compass.     Yet  the  proclamation  of  the  Emperor, 


12  PPAIN    A\n    TIIF,    SPANIARDS. 

warning  the  army  that,  notwithstanding  the  improvements  in 
fire-arms,  the  bayonette  still  continued  tlic  Frenchman's  wea- 
pon, was  fully  justified  by  subsequent  events.  Never  before 
had  it  been  brought  into  such  terrific  play.  The  Zouaves, 
indeed,  had  the  dangerous  hal)it  of  throwing  away  their  cart- 
ridges in  order  to  force  a  charge  with  the  favorite  weapon. 
The  Sardinians  have  not  received  their  full  share  of  praise  for 
the  ])art  they  performed.  The  battle  of  San  Martiuo,  though 
nominally  a  part  of  Solferino,  was  almost  a  distinct  engage- 
ment, even  more  warmly  contested  than  the  other,  and  if  the 
palm  of  bravery  can  be  awarded  where  all  are  equally  brave,  it 
should  rather  be  to  the  Italians,  the  most  of  whom  had  never 
before  seen  service.  Four  times  were  the}'  driven  from  the 
plateau,  and  four  times  did  they  steadily  regain  it  against 
superior  numbers  and  with  immense  loss.  But,  as  usual,  the 
larger  nation  has  carried  off  the  lion's  share  of  the  glory.  The 
French  army  is  certainly  a  magnificent  engine.  The  conscrip- 
tion, tliough  it  bears  heavily  upon  the  country,  gives  a  much 
higher  tone  to  the  rank  and  file  than  the  recruiting  sj'stem, 
and  the  plan  of  reserving  a  certain  number  of  i:)romotions  for 
the  bravery  that  is  without  the  aids  of  lortune  or  i-ank,  offers  a 
stimulus  of  which  we  can  form  little  conception.  The  French 
cavalry,  somewhat  unex|)ectedly,  also  beat  the  Austriansj  but 
I  think  an  American  will  be  struck  with  the  abominable  horse- 
manship of  all  Western  Europeans,  except  the  Spaniards,  who 
are  really  caballeros.  No  Mexican  would  ever  have  made  the 
mistake  of  supposing  French,  Germans  or  Italians  to  form  one 
animal  with  their  steeds.  They  flop  about  in  a  most  teri-ific 
iiiiiiiiuT.  and  Hceni,  if  one  may  judge  ,1)}'  the  great  jn-ecautions 
taken  in  the  way  of  bits,  to  i-cgai-d  the  lioi-se  as  an  enemy,  a 
sort  of  wild  beast.  The  English  have  written  themselves  into 
an  equestrian  reputation,  but  those  who  come  to  America  are 
certainl}^  neither  graceful  riders,  nor  masters  of  the  animah 
Bad  as  they  are,  however,  they  are  better  than  some  of  their 
neighbors. 

One  portion  of  the  French  army — the  light  corps,  such  as 
Zouaves  and  Chasseurs  a  pied — is  beyond  criticism.  They 
seem  to  unite  every  requisite  of  a  soldier.  As  skirmishers,  in 
the  advance  or  retreat,  they  are  naturally  without  superiors. 
Yet  it  is  in  line  with  the  bayonette,  that  their  princij^al  glory 
has  been  acquired.     Easily  subsisted,  always  cheerful,  having 


THE    TEACE    OF    VILLAFRANCA.  13 

the  courago  of  desperadoes  ■without  their  lawlessness,  the  voice 
of  the  officer  never  fulls  to  meet  a  response  in  the  deeds  of  his 
men.  At  the  battle  of  Palestro,  whei-e  the  third  regiment 
fought  with  the  t\iry  of  demons,  the}"  Averc  seen  one  moment 
thrusting  the  Anstrians  over  the  bridge,  and  the  next  extend- 
ing the  butts  of  their  rifles  down  to  save  them  from  drownin<;. 
Such  is  the  French  soldier. 

At  the  signing  of  the  peace  -of  Yillafranca,  the  Austrian 
arm^'  was  still  strong  in  numbers,  but  utterl}^  demoralized,  with- 
out confidence  in  their  Emperor,  their  Generals  or  themselves. 
Peschiera  would  have  fallen  in  ten  da^'s ;  Mantua  Avas  block- 
aded; the  impregnability  of  Verona  laughed  at;  Venice  awaited 
but  the  first  bomb  to  rise,  and  the  machinations  of  Kossuth 
and  lvla])ka  had  reduced  the  Empire  to  the  brink  of  internal 
dissolution.  The  feeble  remnant  of  its  credit  was  gone,  and 
the  abyss  of  bankrujjtcy  had  already  began  to  yawn  at  its  feet. 
No  wonder  Europe  was  astounded  when  Napoleon  commanded 
the  troubled  elements  to  be  still,  and  sued  the  prostrate  Ilaps- 
burg  for  peace,  lie  had  told  the  Italians  that  Italy  was  to  be 
free  from  the  Al])s  to  the  Adriatic;  that  their  own  wishes  would 
be  consulted  as  to  their  futui'e  destiny;  he  had  called  upon 
them  to  be  soldiers  to-day,  in  order  that  they  might  be  free 
citizens  of  a  great  country  to-morrow.  Yet,  in  the  face  of  all 
this,  a  peace  was  concluded,  in  which  Lombardy  was  bandied 
about  between  the  two  Emperors  as  though  it  had  been  a  mere 
piece  of  land ;  Venice  was  left,  practically,  in  its  original  con- 
dition. The  Dukes,  who  with  unpi-ecedcnted  unanimity'  had 
been  driven  from  their  thrones  for  complicity  with  the  common 
enemy,  and  who  had  even  drawn  the  sword  at  Solferino,  were 
to  be  restored  again  upon  an  extorted  promise  not  to  do  so  a 
third  time.  Yet  it  was  coolly  announced  that  the  "  mission" 
had  been  fulfilled,  because  forsooth  Italy  was  to  become  a  Con- 
federacy, that  is,  Sardinia  was  to  be  crowded  into  a  council 
chamber,  with  one  powerful  and  bitter  foe — Austria — two  other 
scarcely  less  decided  opponents — Rome  and  Naples,  and  three 
satellites  of  Austria.  This  latter  proposition  was  received  with 
cries  of  derision,  and  fell  still-born.  The  French  Pr<jvincial 
Press,  Ics  Joxirnax  des  Prcfets,  which  are  without  independence 
and  utterly  undeserving  of  respect,  abused  the  Italians  in 
round  terms  for  their  ingratitude,  pretending  that  the  pro- 
gi-ammc  had  been  carried  out  fully,  as  though  the  war  had 


14  SPAIN    ANT»    TMK    SPANIARDS. 

been  undertaken  for  tlie  purpose  of  liboratiuf!;  Lombard}', 
wherexs  its  object  was  to  drive  tlic  Austrians  out  alto<ji;othor — 
Italy  for  tbe  Italians — in  a  word,  a  principle  not  a  fact.  I  by 
no  means  say  tbat  every  one  was  willing  to  ii;o  tbe  length  of 
an  entctc  Frenchman  opposite  to  me  at  the  tal)lc  d'hote,  who 
exclaimed  with  great  emphasis,  " c'est  le principe,  Messieurs!  et 
nwi,  je  tuerais  mon  pcrc  et  ma  mere  pour  un  principc,"  but  it  was, 
nevertheless,  the  idea  that  the}'  were  fighting  for  a  great  prin- 
ciple which  aroused  the  Italian  nation.  The  Emperor,  who  is 
a  far  honester  man  than  bis  supporters,  in  bis  manly  speech  to 
tbe  Corps  Legislatif,  at  St.  Cloud,  admitted  that  he  had  been 
compelled  to  leave  bis  programme  incomplete,  assigning  as  a 
reason  therefor  that  lie  found  himself  on  the  verge  of  being 
involved  in  a  war  with  the  Germanic  Confederation,  and  assert- 
ing that  bis  course  had  been  dictated  solely  by  the  interests  of 
France.  Had  be  added  "  the  interests  of  bis  d3-nast3',"  tbe 
whole  truth  might  have  been  told.  This  speech  had  the  effect 
of  opening  tbe  eyes  of  the  Italians  to  the  real  motives  for  the 
powerful  assistance  they  bad  received.  It  was  not  purely  for 
an  idea,  nor  from  any  quixotic  generosity  that  so  much  French 
blood  bad  been  poured  out  upon  the  plains  of  Lonil)ar(l_y,  l)ut 
merel}'  to  lessen  Austrian  influence  iu  Italy,  so  far,  and  so  far 
only,  as  might  keep  her  depeiiilent  upon  the  ruler  of  France, 
not  to  make  her  united,  independent,  self-subsisting,  and,  least 
of  all,  to  place  her  under  a  constitutional  (xovernment,  which  is 
as  abhorrent  to  the  House  of  l>ouMparte  as  to  the  House  of 
Hapsburg.  But  let  us  bless  the  giver,  and  luit  look  the  gift- 
horse  in  the  mouth.  In  truth,  too  nuuh  liad  been  expected, 
and  the  Emperor  himself  for  once  forgot  his  caution  in  specify- 
in"-  too  distinctly  tbe  goal  of  bis  ambition.  No  doubt  the  atti- 
tude of  Germany  was  calculated  to  startle  him,  but  so  long  as 
Russia  remained  firm,  there  was  little  danger  to  be  apprehended 
from  tbat  quarter.  Hithei'to  nothing  could  l»o  more  satisfac- 
tory than  the  manner  in  which  llussia  had  perlbnned  her  part, 
not  only  in  drawing  tbe  sword,  but  in  impressing  upon  Prussia 
that  the  Germanic  Confederation  was  a  purely  defensive,  not 
an  offensive,  organization.  The  idea  was  certainly  preposter- 
ous, that  the  League,  not  content  with  guarantying  to  each 
member  its  Germanic  territory,  should  extend  its  protection 
over  tbe  non-Germanic  provinces  of  Austria,  though  it  had  not 
the  correlative  power  of  enforcing  a  compliance,  the  just  de- 


CONDUCT    OF   RUSSIA. — EFFECT    OF    THE    WAR.  15 

mands  of  Foreign  Powers,  thus  in  cftect  turning  a  nation  loose 
upon  the  world  Avith  full  authority  to  do  wrong,  yd  shielded 
from  all  responsibility.  In  1850,  Austria  had  nearly  eflPected 
her  cherished  purpose  of  forcing  all  her  possessions  into  the 
Confederation,  and  Europe  stood  quietly  by  saying  nothing. 
The  circulars  of  Prince  Gortschakoff,  in  1859,  opportunely 
restored  matters  to  their  proper  footing.  It  was  whispered 
about,  however,  that  the  visit  of  the  Russian  aid-de-camp,  after 
Solferino,  was  to  announce  that  the  punishment  of  the  delin- 
quent had  gone  far  enough.  The  truth  of  this  report  has  never 
transpired.  If  well  founded,  then  Napoleon  was  ampl}'  justi- 
fied b}-  necessity  in  the  step  he  took,  as  the  democratic  element 
he  had  aroused  behind  him  was  calculated  to  cause  as"  much 
apprehension  as  the  enemy  in  front.  He  certainly  came  back 
to  Paris  in  a  ver}'  bad  humor.  Among  his  several  sjieeches,  I 
preferred  his  reply  to  the  diplon\atic  corps.  Its  caust  icily  showed 
him  to  lie  still  a  human  being,  and  not  entirely  a  machine  of 
Government.  That  body,  with  a  sycophancy  Avortln*  of  the 
days  of  the  first  Napoleon,  had  humbly  begged  to  be  permitted 
to  return  thanks  to  him  for  having  granted  peace  to  Europe. 
The  request  was  vouchsafed.  His  response  was  contained  in 
two  sentences,  in  substance  as  follows :  ''  Gentlemen,  your 
Governments  manifested  such  jealousy  and  impertinent  suspi- 
cion, that  I  thought  it  proper  to  make  peace.  I  thank  3^ou,  as 
formally  as  I  can  for  the  honor,  and  the  door  is  open  for  j'^ou 
to  go."     The  confusion  of  les  oiseaux  dorcs  may  be  imagined. 

The  peace  of  Villafranca  may  be  safel}'  set  down  as  the 
most  complete  diplomatic  failure  on  record.  Not  a  single  pro- 
vision has  been,  or  could  have  been,  carried  out,  except  the 
cession  of  Ijombardy,  and  that  was  a  fait  accompli  already, 
quite  independent  of  the  treat}'.  The  notion  of  a  Confederacy 
was  soon  given  up  as  impracticable.  The  Dukes  were  not 
restored;  though  for  that  mercy  the  Italians  have  to  thank  the 
Lord  and  their  own  determined  military  opposition,  not  the 
benevolent  intentions  of  the  high  contracting  powers.  Neither 
has  Venice  received  those  ameliorating  institutions  so  loudly 
promised.  But,  thougii  the  effect  of  the  peace  was  thus  naught, 
that  of  the  war  was  tremendous.  It  destroyed  the  jircstige  of 
the  Austrian  military  organization,  shook  every  tyrant  in 
Italy,  revived  the  patriotism  of  the  whole  land.  It  summoned 
again  into  active  life  those  who  have  the  greatest  interest  in 


16  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

the  stability  of  society,  an<l  wliose  participation  in  public 
allairs  is  the  best  preservative  against  disorder.  Few  people 
have  given  to  tiie  world  a  nobler  example  of  moderation  and 
wisdom  than  the  Italians  since  the  flight  of  their  Dukes. 
Mazziiii,  and  his  wretched  crew  of  assassins,  were  unhesitat- 
ingly and  ignoininously  driven  out.  With  the  exception  of  the 
murder  of  Anviti,  scarcely'  an  act  of  violence  has  been  com- 
mitted by  a  ])opulace,  to  Avlioni  self-constituted  apostles  of 
liberty  have  been  preaching  that  the  stiletto  was  the  only  kc}^ 
to  freedom.  The  provisional  Governments  maintained  order 
and  protection  to  life  and  property  as  vigorously  at  Florence 
as  Napoleon  did  at  Paris;  and  a  considerable  part  of  Europe 
was  not  only  astonished,  but  disappointed,  and,  if  the  truth 
must  be  told,  scandalized,  to  tiiul  law  in  the  place  of  confusion, 
and  liberty  where  they  had  fondl}'  expected  anarchy.  The  drama 
is  not  yet  played  out,  nor  can  the  most  far-seeing  predict  th^ 
ultimate  result  of  the  contest.  It  has  pfaced  France  at  the 
head  of  Europe,  so  that,  in  the  language  of  Frederic  the  Great, 
not  a  gun  can  be  fired  without  her  permission.  The  Eixipcror, 
by  the  management  of  the  resei've  at  Solferino,  has  added  to 
his  civic  crown  the  laurel  leaves  of  the  conqueror.  Despot  as 
he  is,  he  has  rendered  service  to  the  cause  of  humanity,  is 
crushing  the  embryo  Ivobcspierres  and  Murats  of  the  Eevolu- 
tion  of  1848,  and  the  infamous  school  of  light  literature  which 
debauched  the  world  under  Louis  Phili])pe.  Tlic  fall  of  the 
temple,  unfortunately,  along  with  these  false  gods,  destroyed 
some  true  Indievers;  but  the  art  of  preserving  liberty  is  a  mj's- 
tery  as  yet  unrevealed  to  Europe,  and  detestable  though  the 
present  Government  be,  it  is  by  no  means  certain  that  it  is  not 
the  best  for  the  French.  The  Italians  are  content  with  inde- 
pendence; the  FreiH'h  need  somotliing  more.  No  Government 
can  retain  their  respect,  which  is  not  surrounded  by  the  halo 
of  military  glory.  ^^UEinpire  c'est  la  paix"  was  a  deceitful 
dream,  L' Empire  est  la  gloire  ct  la  guerre.  Every  party  to  the 
treaty  of  Vienna  must  be  made  to  bow  in  humble  atonement. 
Russia  was  the  first  to  feel  the  wrath  of  the  avenger.  Austi-ia 
came  next.  Prussia  will  soon  be  made  to  surrender  her  trans- 
rhenane  possessions;  and,  to  crown  the  glory  of  all,  the  French 
tri-color  will  float  over  the  Tower  of  London.  Every  impar- 
tial obsei-ver  in  Europe  feels  that  such  is  the  inevitable  decree 
of  fate.  Its  fulfilment  may  be  deferred,  but  come  it  must  and 
will. 


Chaptkr  n. 
TUEIN,  BY  GENOA  TO  LUCnON. 

Off  for  Spain — Situation  of  Turin — Novarra — Riop  Plantation — ]?eauty  of  the 
Country  of  Italy — French  Oflicers — Approach  to  the  MciUtcrranoan — Genoa — 
The  Young  Poictevinc — The  Palaces — Reception  of  the  News  of  the  Peace — 
Voyage  to  Marseilles — French  Manoeuvring  S<iuadron — Marseilles — The  Pro- 
venyeaux — Journey  to  Toulouse — Cette — The  Hungarians — Languedoc — Capt. 
Ingraham  and  Coszta — Bascassonere — Toulouse — French  Centralization — Arrive 
at  Luchon. 

The  ]ii'oclamatioii  of  i)eacc,  entirely  frustrating  tlu'  oltjoot  of 
my  journey,  was  doubly  provoking,  since  a  great  battle  was 
imminent  under  the  walls  of  Verona,  such  as  Europe  had  pro- 
babl}'  not  beheld  for  centuries.  It  would  have  been  a  hand  to 
hand  encounter,  of  unexampled  bitterness.  To  have  witnessed 
in  cold  blood  this  scene,  from  motives  of  mei'«  cui'iosit}',  could 
gratif}'  a  prize-figbter  only,  but  to  have  borne  a  part  in  the 
excitement  and  dangers  of  a  contest,  pregnant,  perhaps,  witli 
the  fate  of  self-government  and  national  independence  in 
Europe,  would  be  a  glorious  recollection,  a  theme  of  endless 
discourse  in  after-years.  The  war,  however,  was  over  for  the 
present.  At  least  such  was  the  general  opinion,  and  I  saw  no 
reason  to  dissent,  though  there  was  every  prospect  of  its  break- 
ing out  afresh  when  the  time  came  for  carrying  the  Treaty  of 
Villafranca  into  execution.  In  the  meantime  I  was  at  liberty 
to  spt'iid  the  summer  according  to  my  preference,  about  which 
I  had  little  hesitation.  For  an  American  what  country  pos- 
sesses such  attractions  as  Spain  ?  To  Spjiin  does  our  continent 
owe  its  birth.  The  romance  of  its  earlier  history,  followed  by 
a  military  and  civil  empire,  whose  extent  had  Jiever  before 
been  equjtlled,  and  united  with  the  charms  of  its  preseiit  life, 
have  amply  justilied  tlje  partiality  which  Americans  display 
for  the  land  of  the  orange  and  the  olive.  Death  on  the  battle 
field  is  doubtless  very  pleasant,  but  next  to  that  is  certainly  life 
in  Andalusia.  Some  years  ago,  returning  home  from  the  usual 
3 


18  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

course  of  German  education,  I  had  passed  the  winter  in  that 
enchanted  garden,  and  a  romenil)rance  of  its  deli«i;ht8  liad 
haunted  nie  ever  since.  Was  it  imagination  ?  "Was  it  the  tran- 
sitory effect  produced  by  contrast  with  the  cheerless  regions  of 
the  North,  where  my  previous  years  had  been  passed  ?  Was  it 
reality?  Elsewhere  in  Europe  there  was  little  to  compensate 
for  the  moss-drajied  oaks,  the  sweet-snielliiig  magnolias,  the 
flowering  vines  of  my  own  home:  for  the  sensitive  honor  run- 
ning at  times  into  extremes,  which  is  yet  the  main-spring  to 
the  character  of  a  gentleman  :  for  the  enthusiasm,  sincerity, 
and  gentli-  nature  of  our  own  beautiful  women.  All  these  had 
a  place  in  my  recollections  of  Spain,  and  it  was  impossible  to 
resist  the  attraction,  even  at  the  risk  of  being  disillusioned.  I, 
therefore,  decided  upon  an  immediate  dej)arture,  delaying  only 
long  enough  to  embrace  the  oi)j)()i-tunity  otl'ered  me  of  visiting 
a  rice  plantation. 

Turin  is  much  inferioi*  to  other  Italian  cities  in  treasures  of 
art.  The  Gallery  of  Paintings  and  the  Egyptian  Museum  are 
said  to  contain  objects  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  I  visited  tliem, 
but,  in  truth,  the  public  mind  was  too  much  occui)ied  witii 
other  matters  to  allow  one  to  appreciate  these.  The  old  cita- 
del, however,  surprised  rac,  as  it  proves  that  all  the  essential 
principles  of  fortification,  as  applied  to  modern  Avarfare,  were 
well  known  long  before  the  day  of  Vauban  and  Cochorn,  and 
that  the  progress  since  made  by  the  science  has  been  much 
more  gradual  than  is  supposed,  consisting  simply  in  the  devel- 
opment and  application  of  these  ]>rinci])les  with  increased 
accuracy.  The  new  i)art  of  the  city  is  built  up  with  elegant 
mansions,  and  its  general  ajjpearance.  is  the  best  evidence  that 
can  be  desired  of  the  blessings  of  good  govei'nment.  Situated 
as  it  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Po  and  the  Dt^ra,  and  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  ample  valley  of  Piedmont,  which  includes  the  head- 
waters of  these  streams,  and  is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  the 
Al})s,  its  environs,  and  the  views  from  the  elevations  in  the 
neighborhood,  cannot  but  be  fine.  Switzerland  and  Italy  here 
melt  into  each  other.  Tire  Collina  di  Torino,  a  long  hill  i-un- 
ning  parallel  to  the  Po  on  its  eastern  bank,  and  coveretl  with 
villas  and  groves,  woulil  cliarni  a  Neapolitan,  while  the  pano- 
ramic view  from  the  terrace  of  the  little  church  on  its  summit, 
including  the  semi-circular  range  of  the  Alps,  from  Monte  Rosa 
to  the  heights  above  (ienoa,  reminds  one  of   Berne.     But  its 


RICE    TLANTATION.  19 

political  iniportimcc,  and  the  extension  of  railroads,  have  made 
Turin  too  lamiliar  to  our  countrymen  to  need  a  descrijition  ;  so 
a  sweltering  morning  in  July  found  me  coursing  down  the  left 
bank  of  the  Po.  The  train  soon  reached  Novarra,  Avhere  the 
station  was  already  filled  with  the  returning  baggage  of  the 
Imperial  suite. 

I  delivered  ni}-  note  of  introduction,  and  after  an  appetizing 
breakfast,  we  started  for  the  country.  The  heat  was  sicken- 
ing; no  Jul}'  on  the  Pee  Dee  could  have  surpassed  it,  nor  was 
there  any  sea-breeze  to  tem])er  its  violence.  But  this  heat 
continues  only  for  a  few  hours  in  tlie  inid-da}';  as  night  comes 
on  the  cool  air,  descending  from  the  neighboring  peaks  of 
Monte  Eosa,  makes  ample  amends  for  the  sufferings  of  the 
(hiy.  The  summers,  moreover,  are  comparatively  short,  and 
do  not  encourage  that  luxuriant  tro})ical  growth  which  ren- 
ders the  tender  grass  plots  of  the  North  so  rare  in  our  country. 
All  travellers,  who  can  make  up  their  minds  to  endure  the  dis- 
agreeabilities  of  the  season,  bear  testimony  to  the  beauty  of 
the  country  of  Italy  during  the  summer.  Indeed,  if  one  wishes 
really  to  see  Ital}-,  the  summer  is  the  only  time  to  travel 
there  as  elsewhere.  It  is  peculiarly  unfortunate  for  us  of  the 
South,  that  we  should  be  exposed  to  foreign  criticism  in  the 
nakedness  of  our  winter  garb,  while  the  contrary  rule  is  ap- 
l»lied  to  the  North ;  for  the  beauty  of  every  cauntr}-  must  be 
judged  by  its  aspect  when  presented  under  the  most  favorable 
point  of  view,  and  it  should  be  seen,  too,  not  only  from  the 
ramparts  of  great  cities,  but  in  the  midst  of  the  country  itself. 
For  that  purpose,  I  could  not  have  selected  a  more  propitious 
time  to  visit  Sardinia  than  the  present.  The  valley  of  the 
Ticino  is  almost  wholly  devoted  to  the  rice  culture.  The  plan 
of  operations  differs  somewhat  from  ours,  as  the  water  is  kept 
on  till  a  few  weeks  before  the  harvest,  and  thus,  to  a  certain 
extent,  the  deleterious  consequences  of  periodical  irrigation 
avoided.  This  system  adds  verj'  much  to  the  beaut}^  of  the 
landscape,  and  gives  to  the  fields  the  appearance  of  meadows; 
but  it  destroys  the  grand  views  offered  by  our  plantations,  and 
the  prominent  feature  of  f^uch  scenery  with  us,  the  majestic 
river,  is  entirely  wanting.  The  product  is  not  so  great,  nor 
docs  the  grain  equal  the  American  in  size  and  whiteness. 
Whether  it  be  as  agreeable  to  the  taste  is  more  than  I  can 
tell,  as  it  was  always  brought  upon  the  table  in  combination 


20  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

with-  some  suhstance  wl\icli  <lisi:;uiso(l  its  fljvvor.  The  machin- 
ery for  reaping,  threshing,  pounding  and  cleansing  is  better 
than  I  expected  to  find,  but  is  still  far  behind  w  hat  is  in  com- 
mon use  among  us.  There  is.  however,  a  disposition  for  im- 
]u*ovement,  which  is  fostered  by  tlie  (iovernment  as  far  as  lies 
ill  its  pouxr.  1  liavt'  little  doubt  but  that  the  cultivation  of 
rice  will  eventually  disapi)ear  from  Europe.  No  Circassian 
constitution  can  withstand  the  malarious  diseases  which  seem 
its  inseparable  concomitants  at  present,  and  unless  chemistry 
or  medicine  come  to  the  rescue  by  revealing  some  anti-mias- 
matic specific,  it  musl.  in  the  course  of  time,  be  surrendered  to 
Africans  and  Asiatics. 

In  this  part  of  Ital}',  the  duii'v  secius  to  be  considered  moi-e 
profitabk'  than  any  otluT  department  of  agriculture.  The 
perjietual  snows  in  the  neighborhood  furnish  thorn  with  a 
never  failing  supply  of  pure  water,  Avliich  nourishes  their 
meadows  all  the  year  round.  The  cattle  were  handsome  and 
ill  good  plight,  but  the  pootr}-  of  the  opei'ation  disappeared 
with  the  sight  of  the  dairy-maid — a  healthy,  retl-skinned  fel- 
low, clothed  in  a  pair  of  short  breeches,  and  having  a  one- 
legged  stool  strapped  on  behind,  with  which  he  went  whisking 
abijut  from  cow  to  cow,  filling  his  ])iggin  with  gi-eat  alacrit}'. 
Tlie  idea  of  officering  such  a  department  with  a  man  was 
shockingly  unpicturesque.  I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  an 
American-patented  invention  for  milking  was  not  unknown. 
But  if  the  dairy-maid  was  not  picturesque,  the  liay-niakers 
certainly  were.  It  was  the  mowing  season.  Peasants,  men, 
women  and  children,  in  full  Alpine  costume,  with  broad  sti'aw 
hats  and  flattering  ribands,  had  ci^me  down  to  tlio  work. 
Heavily  laden  hay-carts,  dr;iwn  b}-  lawn-colored,  plaintive- 
eyed  oxen,  were  returning  tVoni  the  fiehls.  On  every  side 
extended  a  wilderness  of  green,  interspersed  with  hedges  and 
trees,  upon  which  hang  in  soil  marriage  the  clustering  vine. 
In  the  disttmce,  rose  the  snowy  Alps,  delicately  illumined  by 
the  rosy  ra3's  of  the  evening.  It  was  a  scene  of  perfect  rural 
felicity.  How  strange  it  seemed,  too,  that  1  should  from  the 
bank  of  a  rice-field  gaze  upon  the  regions  of  eternal  ice.  The 
alacrity  and  respectful  depoi-tment  of  the  emjiloyes  struck  me 
most  agreeably  and  elicited  remark;  but  I  was  informed,  what 
is,  indeed,  true  almost  everywhere,  that  this  was  more  appar- 
ent than  real,  and  ceased   with   the  business  relation.      The 


TO    GENOA. — DFFICERS.  21 

Italians  sliould  be  a  happy  people.  The  beautiful  country, 
fine  climate,  the  cheapness  of  necessai'ies,  and  even  luxuries, 
when  compared  with  American  prices,  ought  to  satisfy  the 
most  exigent.  They  have  a  greater  taste  for  rural  life  than 
the  nations  to  the  north,  which  is  not  to  be  wondered  at. 
The  style  of  cultivation  frees  the  countrj'  from  the  aspect  ot 
solitude  which  reigns  in  the  foggy  climes.  Nor  are  they 
cursed  with  that  class-cliaracter  of  disposition  which  erects 
such  a  barrier  between  the  great  landlord  and  all  around,  and 
which  necessaril}-  makes  him  lonely  in  his  grandeur.  ]iut  all 
this  is  nothing,  so  long  as  Austria  sits  at  the  gates  of  Verona. 
Italy  needs,  and  must  have,  a  Government  which  can  secure 
to  every  one  the  fruits  of  labor,  b}'  protecting  him  against  the 
eternal  wars,  revolutions,  coups  d'Etat,  and  states  of  siege, 
which  seem  chronic  in  some  portions  of  Europe.  If  the  late 
contest  have  secured  this  end,  it  will  prove  the  most  profitable 
investment  of  treasure  that  was  ever  yet  made. 

The  City  of  Novan-a  is  situate  ujion  an  eminence  on  the 
Avestern  border  of  the  valley  of  the  Ticino.  It  is  a  well-built 
place,  surrounded  by  beautiful  walks,  which  have  been  laid  out 
on  the  dismantled  walls,  off'ering  a  fine  view  of  Monte  Kosa 
and  the  neighboring  chain.  The  only  prominent  historical 
association,  is  the  painful  one  of  the  great  battle  of  1 849,  which 
prostrated  the  Sardinian  monarchy ;  at  present,  it  was  the 
theatre  of  very  different  emotions.  During  the  whole  night 
crowds  perambulated  the  streets,  singing  patriotic  songs  and 
giving  vent  to  their  joy  in  other  less  appropriate  manifes- 
tations. From  this  place  it  had  been  my  jiurpose  to  visit  the 
battle-fields,  but  there  is  very  little  to  be  seen  at  such  places. 
The  dead  are  soon  interred,  the  peasants  return,  plough  u]) 
the  land,  sow  it  afresh,  and  the  only  evidences  of  the  late  strug- 
gle are  a  few  shot-torn  form-houses,  and  the  increased  fertility 
of  the  soil.  The  Governments  in  Europe,  moreover,  have  a 
very  un]ileasant  way  of  seizing  the  railroad  trains,  which  they 
intended  to  do  here  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  the  French 
arm}"  back  to  France,  so  it  might  have  been  difficult  to  return. 
I,  therefore,  thought  it  better  to  proceed  the  next  day  immedi- 
ately to  (lenoa.  The  train  was  filled  with  French  officers 
returning  from  the  war,  in  high  spirits  and  well  bronzed. 
One  of  them,  a  captain,  had  received  a  curious  wound  in  the 
side  at  Magenta,  a  bayonette  having  passed  between  his  spine 


22  SPAIN    ANT*    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

and  his  inti-stines  without  iluiiii^  serious  injury  to  either.  He 
was  almost  entirely  restored.  There  seemed  to  be  but  one 
opinion  amom;  tlu-m — rej^ret  and  astonishment  at  the  coikIu- 
Bion  of  the  peace.  It  was  evident  that  thc3''  felt  themselves 
compromised  in  the  public  estimation  b^-  the  i-vents  of  the 
last  few  days,  thoui^h  without  reason,  as  the  Italians  never 
ceased  to  feel  grateful  to  the  French  arm}'  which  had  so  nobly 
poured  out  its  blood  in  their  cause,  wliatever  might  be  the 
opinion  entertained  of  the  Emperor.  Once,  a  friend  came  to 
the  window  and  asked  them  why  they  were  returning:  "J?/*  .' 
ma  foi!  In  ynission  est  faite,"  they  exclaimed,  but  such  was  not 
their  real  lielief  Our  journey  was  of  a  wholly  militai-y  char- 
acter. The  bridge  over  the  Po,  near  Valenza,  was  still  lined 
with  gabions,  placed  there  to  defend  the  passage,  while  the 
Austrians  were  west  of  the  Ticino.  At  Alessandria,  the  Gov- 
ernment seized  our  train,  tliereby  affording  us  an  unwelcome 
opportunity  of  walking  tlii-ough  the  town,  wliich  offered  noth- 
ing to  our  admiration,  except  soldiers  and  cannon  and  muni- 
tions of  war.  I  succeeded  in  getting  on  the  next  train,  which, 
tlu-ea<liiig  the  Maritime  Alps  by  a  magnificently  engineered 
road,  at  length  issued  from  the  great  tunnel,  and  Genova  la 
Superba,  surrounded  by  fortress-crowned  summits,  with  the 
deep  blue  Mediterranean  extending  to  the  southern  horizon,  lay 
at  our  feet. 

What  can  equal  these  mountain  appruaelies  to  the  Mediterra- 
nean, whether  in  Italy  or  Spain  ?  They  seem  gates  into 
Nature's  Paradise.  This  favored  sea  has  been,  and  ever  will 
be,  the  seat  of  beauty  and  civilization.  That  it  witnessed  the 
triumphs  of  Greece  and  Pome,  has  added  to,  but  did  not  origi- 
nate its  charms.  In  vain  many  other  nations  of  Europe  erect 
splendid  moiiuments,  an<l  sniToiind  tlieinselves  with  all  the 
luxury  of  boundless  wealth.  Tlie  shores  of  the  Mediterranean, 
even  in  their  desohition,  pf)ssess  a  hidden  and  irresistible  attrac- 
tion, which  will  outweigh  all  their  magnificence.  No  traveller 
forgets  his  first  entry  upon  its  magic  territory;  I  may  be  par- 
doned for  recurring  to  my  own.  It  was  in  the  month  of  March, 
before  the  completion  of  the  railway  to  the  Adriatic.  AV^e  had 
slowly,  in  the  Eilwagen  from  Vienna,  climbed  the  Semmering 
Alp,  and  traversed  a  dreary,  crumbling  country  in  the  midst 
of  snow  and  mist.  The  Grotto  of  Adclsberg  had  but  served 
to  deepen  the  gloomy  impression  of  the  journey.     Early  the 


BEAUTY    OF    SITUATION. — THE    YOUNG    POITFA'INE.  Zfi 

next  morning  our  little  carriage  reached  the  mountain  pass, 
above  Trieste.  The  coachman  (honored  be  his  memor}-  !)  with 
humane  anticipation  of  our  delight,  lialted  the  vehicle  and 
awakened  us.  What  a  prospect  salutetl  our  wondering  gaze! 
The  North  with  its  fogs  and  brawling  l>lasts  was  gone;  the 
lovely  South  smiled  iipon  us.  Underneath  lay  the  city,  sur- 
rounded by  a  vegetation  that  seemed  tropical  by  comparison 
with  the  stunted  shrubbery  of  Carniola  and  Styria.  The  hill- 
side sparkled  with  villas  just  emerging  from  the  shadows  of 
the  night.  Far  beyond  stretched  the  Adriatic,  its  blue  waters 
covered  with  sails,  which  the  sun  was  beginning  to  tip  with 
rosj'  ligbt.  Enveloping  all,  floated  around  us  the  pure  air  of 
Italy.  81iall  I  be  ashamed  to  confess  that  wc  spent  the  day 
seated  upon  the  sea-wall,  our  legs  dangling  over  the  side,  and 
our  whole  selves  revelling  in  the  dolce  far  niente?  Now  that  I 
have  seen  Andalusia  and  Valencia,  Naples  and  Genoa,  I  fear 
the  view  over  Trieste  would  be  common-place,  but  it  was  the 
first  love,  never  to  be  forgotten. 

One  niay  travel  through  the  world,  and  yet  be  astonished  at 
the  beautiful  situation  of  Genoa,  and  the  magnificence  of  its 
palaces.  As  to  the  former,  it  has  been  ranked  with  Naples, 
Lisbon,  Constantinople,  Algiers  and  Cadiz,  as  pre-eminent; 
and,  whether  seen  from  the  sea  or  the  land,  is  considered  little 
inferior  to  its  rivals.  From  ever}'^  elevation  a  magnificent  view 
is  unrolled,  uniting  the  elements  in  such  a  combination  as  is 
rarely  to  be  found  away  from  the  Mediterranean.  The  city 
was  filled  with  French,  the  wives  and  daughters  of  officers,  and 
it  was  pleasant  to  witness  their  delighted  surprise  at  scenes  so 
far  surpassing  even  la  belle  France.  I  remember  strolling  up 
one  evening  with  a  mixed  party  of  French  and  Italians,  on  a 
grand  fraternization  to  the  Castelletto.  As  we  reached  the 
terrace,  and  the  prospect  burst  upon  us,  one  of  the  girls,  a 
young  Poitevine,  daughter  or  niece  of  a  Captain  in  the  Guard, 
started  as  though  she  had  lost  her  breath,  and  was  so  overpow- 
ered that  for  sometime  she  could  only  articulate  "  J/bn  Dieu! 
comme  c'est  beau  !"  until  her  companions  became  alarmed.  At 
first  I  thought  it  mere  Gallic  affectation;  but  no,  it  was  real 
emotion,  I  never  before  beheld  such  sensibility  to  the  beauty  of 
scenery  as  was  manifested  b\-  this  child.  If  that  of  (Jenoa 
needed  commendation,  the  narration  of  this  incident  would  be 
the   most   delicate  compliment  I   could   offer.     Of  course,  the 


24  SPAIN    ANK    Tin:    SPANIARDS. 

young  heroine  is  destined  by  nature  for  a  jioctess.  We  sat  for 
a  long  time  listening  to  the  hum  of  the  bus}'  city,  the  echoes 
of  the  evening  guns  answering  each  other's  reverberations, 
the  rolling  of  the  drums,  as  the  patrols  passed  along  the  nar- 
row streets,  and  watching  the  ever-changing  hues  of  the  dying 
day.  Yet,  with  all  its  beauty,  there  is  a  want  of  sutticient 
expansion  in  the  prospect.  It  embraces  only  mountains  and 
sea,  wliile  Naples  and  Cadiz  relieve  the  too  sharp  contrast  by 
undulating  plains. 

The  Palaces  of  Genoa  degrade  most  others,  by  compai'ison, 
into  mere  dwellings.  The  grandeur  of  their  diinensious  is  sur- 
passed by  the  elegance  of  the  architecture.  It  would  l»e  a  use- 
less task  to  describe  what  is  tinniliar  lo  nil  tlic  worM  :  if  I  am 
to  give  a  preference,  it  would  be  for  the  J'alazzo  della  Scala, 
than  which  I  know  nothing  of  its  kind  more  exquisite.  I  vis- 
ited it  ill  llie  inorning,  when  the  liglit  fell  lull  ujion  the  marble 
staircase  and  rendered  it  almost  dazzling.  The  cicerone  says 
that  the  occupant  is  a  young  bachelor.  What  a  charming  time 
he  must  have,  and  what  damsel  so  hard-hearted  as  to  refuse  the 
owner  of  sueh  a  house  !  They  are  filled,  too,  with'  the  works 
of  the  best  masters,  among  which,  1  confess,  none  pleased  me 
more  than  the  portraits  of  a  Marquis  and  Marchioness  of  the 
Brignole  Sale  family  in  the  Palazzo  Rosso,  executed  in  the  best 
style  of  Vand^'ke,  and  probably  surpassed  by  none,  unless  it  be 
those  of  Charles  I.  I  thought,  too,  that  the  distribution  of  the 
pictures  among  the  several  collections,  rendered  the  visits  more 
agreeable.  Each  contains  about  enough  to  please,  without 
Avearying  the  mind  and  the  body,  as  too  often  happens  in  the 
enormous  galleries  of  the  capitals.  Viewed  simply  from  an 
jcsthetic  point,  these  Genoese  Palaces  are  bej'ond  criticism ; 
from  the  historico-social,  it  is  somewhat  otherwise.  The  Pyra- 
mids of  Kgypt  were  at  first  objects  of  mere  wonder,  then  of  ad- 
miration, as  ])roofs  of  lln'  wealth  and  resources  of  a  kingdom, 
which  couM  alford  such  magnificent  mausoleums  for  its  sover- 
eigns. lUit  suljsequent  ])liil()sophers  have  discovered  in  them 
evidences  of  a  frightful  iii(M|uality,  M'hich  could  thus  absorb  the 
labor  of  millions  in  gratilying  the  caprice  or  whim  of  a  ruler. 
The  history  of  the  Middle  Ages,  too,  is  yet  to  be  written. 
What  more  striking  testimony  to  the  utter  insignificance  of 
the  mass  of  contemporaneous  mankind  than  the  great  feudal 
fortresses  with-which  Huropc  is  studded.     And  so  these  palaces 


THE    GENOESE    AND    TTIE    PEACE.  25 

are  painful  evidoiico  of  prepoiKlcrance  of  a  few,  eoiniiianding 
the  services  of  tlioiisands  to  minister  to  their  hxxury — a  state 
of  things  scarcely  possible  where  the  profits  of  industry  were 
fairlj'  divided  between  labor  and  capital.  This  system  is  per- 
petuated throughout  Europe.  I  was  told  by  a  merchant — a 
prosperous  one,  it  is  true — that  he  paid  a  larger  tax  to  the 
Govornnicnt  than  capitalists  whose  income  amounted  to  $60,000 
a  year. 

The  streets  of  Genoa,  as  of  niost  soutliern  cities,  are  nar- 
row, scarcely  more  than  ten  feet  in  width,  and  the  houses  tall, 
so  that  not  only  heat,  but  light  is  excluded.  No  traveller  in 
the  month  of  July  will  complain  of  them  for  these  peculiarities, 
but  they  are  far  from  complete  success,  for  the  heat  was  suftb- 
cating.  My  great  delight,  and  the  only  escape,  was  to  go  ou4: 
three  times  a  day  beyond  the  mole  and  float  about,  without 
fear  of  shark  or  stinging-nettle.  There  is  one  pretty  promen- 
ade upon  the  old  rampart,  which  in  the  evening  is  thronged 
with  ladies  in  a  handsome  summer  costiime,  the  chapeau  being 
replaced  by  a  white  lace  or  muslin  veil  pinned  to  tlie  hair  and 
falling  over  the  neck  and  shoulders  somewhat  after  the  manner 
of  a  Spanish  mantilla.  Yet,  even  with  this  advantage,  there 
were  few  Avhoin  one  would  venture  to  call  beautiful,  nor  did  I 
think  them  particularly  distinguished  for  grace.  The  fraterni- 
zation between  the  inhabitants  and  the  French  was  thorough; 
the  sole  subject  of  conversation  was  the  jieace,  and  but  one 
opinion  was  expressed  there,  as  elsewhere,  without,  however, 
disturbing  the  harmony  of  intercourse  between  the  two  na- 
tions. The  annexation  of  Lombard}'  to  Sardinia  will  redound 
more  to  the  advantage  of  Genoa  than  any  other  city  in  Italy — 
for,  since  the  invention  of  railroads,  it  has  become  the  natural 
outlet  of  the  whole  suij-Ali)ine  region,  at  least  as  far  as  the 
Mincio.  The  same  builders  up  and  pullers  down  of  nations — 
railroa<ls — have  caused  Trieste  to  absorb  the  trade  of  Venice, 
80  that  the  three  cities  of  Trieste,  Genoa  and  Marseilles  are 
engaged  in  the  same  struggle  for  the  commerce  of  the  Le- 
vant and  prospectively-  of  the  Kast,  which  animates  the  Atlan- 
tic cities  of  our  countr}-  in  extending  their  connections  with 
the  West.  Marseilles  is  backed  by  the  powerful  Empire  of 
France,  Trieste  by  Austria  under  the  shield  of  the  Germanic 
(Confederation,  to  which,  though  an  Italian  town,  it  was  most 
improperly  annexed.     Genoa  must  rely  upon  the  valley  of  the 


26  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

Po.  the  railroad  over  Mount  Cenis,  aiul,  pcrliaps,  over  the  St. 
Cfothard.  and,  best  of  all,  upon  its  free  Government,  8ecurin«ji;  to 
industry  protection  alike  ai^ainst  the  tyranny  of  Governments 
and  the  tyranny  of  mobs.  It  was  natural,  therefore,  that  the 
Genoese  should  desire  a  further  increase  of  territory.  Tlie 
jilace  was,  moreover,  converted  into  a  vast  mat^azine,  and  the 
military  bureaus  were  daily  distriljuting  tliousands  of  francs 
aniouij;  the  inliahitants.  Sacks  and  barrels  of  provisions  of 
evei-y  sort  were  piled  upon  (he  wharf,  all  useless  now.  A  dis- 
agreeable circumstance  for  Governments,  but  a  fortunate  one 
for  their  people,  that  this  amusement  is  so  costly.  Genoa  is 
admirably  fortified,  all  the  heights  being  occu])ied,  with  the 
intention  of  rendering  the  place  impregnable  against  their 
northern  foe,  should  he  penetrate  thus  far.  So  that,  in  the 
last  resort,  the  monarchy  might  find  a  safe  retreat,  and,  if  ne- 
cessary, revive  the  glories  of  Massena's  defence.  The  land 
rises  so  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge  that  the  place  might 
be  commanded  from  numerous  points;  but  all  the  old  castles 
have  been  dismantled  to  relieve  the  apprehensions  of  the  cit- 
izens, as  the  Sardinian  Government  professes  to  rule  b}'  the 
voluntary  submission  of  the  people,  not  by  virtue  of  ball  and 
sword.  The  Genoese  at  beart  are  ReiDublicans,  and  still  sigh 
for  their  former  independence,  whose  loss  in  1815  they  attribute 
to  the  English  influence  at  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  and  thank 
them  accordingly.  Their  reiDublican  tendencies  are  excusable. 
Every  allusion  to  their  great  countryman,  Christopher  Colum- 
bus, must  brine;  to  their  minds  the  former  ijreatness  of  their 
country  and  the  happy  continent  beyond  the  water.  The  me- 
moi'ials  of  the  discoverer  are  cherished  here  with  veneration. 
There  are  three  autograph  letters  in  the  Palace  of  the  Munici- 
])alily,  whicli,  somewhat  out  of  season,  were  shown  to  me  on 
the  strength  of  ni}'  nativity,  for  we  are  considered  his  children. 
The  intelligent  young  gentleman  in  charge  of  them  seemed 
quite  as  enthusiastic  as  myself  over  the  flourishing  old  Spanish 
hierogl3'phic8.  Genoa  may  well  be  proud  of  her  son.  The 
character  of  few  heroes  will  bear  inspection;  their  cpitaj)!!  is, 
too  often,  "  the  greatest,  wisest  and  meanest  of  mankind;"  but 
Cohimbus  is  worthy  to  stand  beside  Washington — peers  in  vir- 
tue as  in  renown,  freemen  and  children  of  freemen. 

When   the  time  came  for  our  departure,  we  found  ourselves 
again  incommoded  by  the  superior  necessities  of  State.     The 


A'OYAOE    TO    MARSEILLES. — COMPANY.  27 

regular  steamer  from  Leghorn  had  been  chartered  by  the 
French  Government  to  transport  the  victorious  army  to  Mar- 
seilles, and  we  were  placed  aboard  a  miserable  little  affair, 
which  occupied  four  and  twenty  mortal  hours  in  the  passage- 
The  stewing  heat  of  Italy  rendered  the  sea  breeze  delicious, 
and  the  fair  weather  enal)led  us  to  enjoy  it  to  the  iitmost  by 
spending  the  night  on  deck,  thus  cheating  the  ravenous  herd 
that  awaited  us  in  the  cabin  berths.  No  voyage  can  be  more 
agreeable  than  coasting  thus  along  the  magnificent  shore  of 
Liguria.  The  loft}'  range  of  the  Appenine  and  Maritime  Alps 
continued  in  sight  the  whole  evening,  and  the  efliect  of  the 
light  upon  their  summits  after  the  sun  had  disappeared  below 
the  horizon  and  left  their  base  in  darkness,  is  not  to  bo  de- 
scribed to  those  who  have  never  seen  Italy. 

Notwithstanding  the  smooth  sea,  most  of  the  passengers, 
particularly  the  women,  were  deadly  sick;  one  ladj'  of  appa- 
rently a  sound  constitution,  screamed  vehemently,  not  to  use  a 
stronger  expression.  The  unfeeling  natui'c  of  man  was  dis- 
played in  the  vigor  with  which  we  supped,  breakfasted  and 
dined  in  the  midst  of  these  unromantic  suiferers.  A  poor 
woman  among  the  second-class  passengers  la}'  upon  the  deck 
the  whole  time,  a  picture  of  misery.  A  little  child  of  four 
years  of  age,  tearfully  attempted  to  ai'ouse  her,  until  convinced 
by  a  kind-hearted  sailor  that  it  Avas  not  death,  when  the  con- 
fiding innocent,  seemingly  relieved,  lay  beside  her  and  slept. 
At  dinner  a  lady  feminine  (T  know  not  of  what  nation)  sitting 
at  the  table,  which  was  on  deck,  on  the  side  next  to  the  bul- 
warks, whenever  overtaken,  (an  aeeideiit  of  trij)le  occurrence,) 
cooly  turned  her  head,  Avithout  leaving  her  seat,  paid  the  pen- 
alty of  those  who  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,  and  checked,  but 
not  defeated,  returned,  smiling,  again  to  the  contest.  The 
person  beside  me  incontinently  left,  handkerchief  in  mouth.  I 
had  no  idea  of  being  thus  cheated  out  of  my  meal,  but  it  re- 
quired a  considerable  effort  of  will.  Her  husband  and  the  rest 
of  the  company  complimented  her  undying  courage,  and  to 
that,  at  least,  she  was  entitled. 

Our  company  was  of  the  usual  mixed  description  that  throngs 
the  Mediterranean,  a  social  olla  podrida.  Among  others  there 
was  an  old  Scotchman  who  had  lived  a  long  time  in  Texas, 
while  it  was  an  independent  State,  and  was  thoroughly  imbued 
with  our  local  prejudices.     Quite  unaffected  and  very  sharp. 


28  SPAIN    ^M>    THE    SI'AMARDS. 

canny  as  canny  could  be,  the  old  fellow  narrated  to  nie  sonic 
occurrence  in  Leghorn,  in  a  dramatic  style,  making  each  char- 
acter speak  for  himself  with  national  peculiarities.  Among  his 
dramatis  persona:  was  an  American,  the  peculiarity  of  whose 
conversation  seemed  to  consist  in  the  fact  that  it  was  entirely 
nasal  and  one-third  of  it  oaths.  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  both  of 
these  are  considered  characteristic  of  us  in  lOurope.  The  latter, 
at  least,  is  unfortunately  too  true.  A  practice  wliitli  tlie  Eng- 
lish have  almost  given  up,  seems  to  have  become  more  and 
more  pojuilar  in  America,  with  certainly  little  advantage  to 
our  eloquence.  An  Arab,  two  Commis,  one  decent  enough,  the 
other  selfish,  forward,  boastful  in  the  Avorst  st3'le  of  his  class, 
an  English  merchant  from  Leghorn,  his  wife  and  maid,  whom 
I  made  the  usual  and  awkward  error  of  mistaking  for  the  mis- 
tress, and  a  French  family  roaringly  sick,  completed  the  list. 
The  steamers  in  sight  successively  passed  us;  but  the  next 
morning  we  overtook  near  Lcs  Isles  de  Ilyere,  a  French  fleet 
of  four  linc-of-battle  ships,  and  one  frigate,  exercising  squadron 
manoeuvres,  and,  as  it  was  calm,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  run- 
ning them  down.  This  is  a  regular  manoeuvring  ground  for 
the  ships  on  the  Toulon  station,  where  the  French  marine  is  as 
carefully  drilled  as  the  army,  and,  if  an  opportunity  Mere 
offered,  would  doubtless  bear  aloft  tlie  national  staudartl  upon 
the  sea  with  as  much  creilit  as  their  countrymen  have  done  on 
hind.  The  French  navy  has  entirely  i-ecoverc'd  from  the  de- 
moralization of  the  revolution,  and  is  officered  by  the  best 
blood  in  France,  for  the  army  is  too  democratic  to  suit  the 
relics  of  the  old  regime.  Every  one  who  has  had  an  o[>portu- 
nity  of  comparing,  can  vouch  for  the  ditference. 

Sliortly  after  ])assing  this  S(]uadron,  the  morning  breeze  died 
awaj',  tiie  sun  became  more  radiant,  the  sick  women  howled 
louder  than  ever,  the  light-haired  Commis  still  favored  us  with 
accounts  of  his  heroism  on  various  occasions,  the  mate  and 
myself  discussed  radishes,  until  alxnit  noon,  we  were  all  de- 
lighted to  see  the  Chateau  d'if,  and  to  glide  into  the  enormous 
and  odoriferous  docks  of  Marseilles.'  With  what  sickening  fury 
did  the  sun  poui-  down  his  rays,  and  with  what  woful  stenches 
did  he  surround  the  custom-house,  where  we  w^ero  detained  an 
hour  in  the  enjoyment  of  these  luxuries. 

The  i)rogress  of  Marseilles  in  the  last  ten  years,  reminds  one 
of  our  American  cities.     Its  connection  by  railroad  witK  Lyons 


TIIK    TROVENCAUX.  29 

on  the  one  hand,  and  Bordeaux  on  the  othex*,  has  opened  to  it 
the  whole  of  France,  while  the  extension  of  its  commerce  with 
Algiers  and  the  Levant,  has  made  it  the  mistress  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. Should  the  Isthmus  of  Suez  be  canaled,  no  bounds 
can  be  set  to  its  greatness,  though  Trieste  may  prove  a  formi- 
dable i-ival.  Our  passports  underwent  a  rigid  inspection,  and 
as  a  natural  consequence,  all  honest  men  were  delayed,  while 
the  rogues,  if  there  were  any,  escaped  free.  It  is  strange  that 
Europeans  cannot  be  convinced  of  the  folly  of  this  system  of 
obstructions.  Inconvenient  as  it  is  to  strangers,  it  must  be 
infinitely  more  galling  to  natives,  who,  if  out  of  their  district, 
are  liable  to  be  arrested  by  any  impertinent  gens  d'arme,  and 
asked  all  sorts  of  questions,  if  nothing  more.  One  must  travel 
in  Europe  to  appreciate  the  unspeakable  blessings  of  American 
liberty.  Being  somewhat  in  a  burr}-,  I  took  the  night  train, 
not,  however,  without  seeing  between  the  hackmen  and  the 
porter  of  the  hotel,  a  specinien  of  the  quarrelsome  nature  for 
which  the  lower  class  of  Proven^aux  are  distinguished  in 
France.  I  was  the  unfortunate  cause  of  the  difficulty.  The 
effect  of  the  Eevolution  of  1789,  in  putting  the  bottom  of 
society  upon  the  top,  is  more  apparent  here  than  anywhere 
else  in  the  country,  though  probably  Lyons  is  a  more  danger- 
ous place  to  the  Government,  as  there  the  outbreaks  are  syste- 
matic. The  cafes  in  Marseilles  are  magnificent,  the  handsomest 
in  France,  but  they  are  filled  with  rowdyish  looking  blouses, 
as  are  all  the  thoroughfares.  The  better  class  of  the  popula- 
tion seem  to  withdraw  from  public,  or  at  least  disguise  them- 
selves when  they  appear.  Certainly,  the}'  are  not  visible  to  a 
mere  stranger.  There  is  here  none  of  that  bonhommie  to  be 
found  in  the  gatherings  of  Bordeaux,  Strasbourg,  or  Eouen. 
Judging  the  Marseillais  by  those  1  have  met  in  travelling,  and 
at  watering  places,  I  should  form  a  good  opinion  of  them ; 
judging  them  by  the  population  in  the  streets,  it  is  doubtful 
which  way  the  balance  would  incline.  However,  I  did  not 
investigate  them  very  closel}'^  upon  the  present  occasion,  as  I 
left  in  the  night  train  for  the  west,  and  they  may  not  be  as 
black  as  they  paint  themselves.  I  was  much  indebted  to  one 
of  them  for  undertaking  to  wake  me  up  at  the  junction,  as 
travelling  in  vehicles  at  night  has  an  overpowering  somnolent 
effect  upon  me,  and  I  should  otherwise  have  found  myself 
coursing  up  the  Klione. 


30  Sl'AIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

Dawn  broke  upon  us  at  Nismos,  with  its  famous  ampliitliea- 
trc,  tlie  first  spocinu-n  of  its  kind  in  Puiropo,  except.  i)erliap8, 
that  of  Verona.  It  has  one  great  and  not  usual  advantage,  viz  : 
that  it  can  he  seen.  Montpellier,  renowned  in  the  annals  of 
exile,  whether  by  persecution  or  disease,  next  appeared.  A  few 
miles  farther  on  we  made  a  long  halt  at  Cette,  upon  the  Medi- 
terranean. The  station  is  some  distance  from  the  town,  close 
to  the  shore,  (iloomy  clouds  hung  over  the  sea,  and  its  waves 
lieat  sullenly  upon  the  sandy  beach.  It  made  upon  one  the 
impression  of  being  at  the  uttermost  end  of  the  earth,  Cimme- 
rian darkness  bej'ond.  We  here  took  on  a  number  of  prisoners 
of  war  belonging  to  the  regiment  of  "Wasa,  which  was  utterly 
destroyed  at  Solferino,  the  largest  portion  liaving  been  lelt  dead 
or  wounded  upon  the  field,  and  the  remainder,  some  six  hun- 
dred, with  the  colonel  and  standard,  taken  prisoners  in  a  church 
under  peculiar  circumstances.  They  were  rather  under  the 
medium  size  of  our  people,  and  hy  no  means  so  contented  with 
their  condition,  as  I  had  expected  to  find  them.  One  of  the 
non-commissioned  officers  spoke  German,  and  we  had  a  long 
conversation,  winding  up  with  a  present  of  a  handful  of  cigars 
(European),  which  is  their  great  want.  The}-  were  very  kindly 
treated,  and  had  no  com])]aint  to  make  of  their  captors.  Kow 
that  the  war  was  over,  I  wondered  that  they  Avere  not  dis- 
charged. No  such  thought  seemed  to  disturb  them,  as  they 
made  their  purchases  of  provisions.  From  Cette  we  took  the 
great  road  connecting  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic, 
passing  through  the  former  province  of  Languedoc,  dear  to  the 
French  Protestants  of  the  Carolinas,  as  the  home  whence  many 
of  them  were  driven  b}"  the  stupid  t3'rann3-  of  Louis  XIY.  It 
is  a  pleasant,  gently  rolling  country-,  resembling  some  portions 
of  Spain,  particularly  in  the  absence  of  trees,  an  evil  which  the 
inhabitants  have  seen  great  reason  to  regret,  but  take  no  pains 
to  remedy.  The  ijopulation  is  evidently  a  ditl'erent  race  from 
the  French  of  the  North.  The}-  are  more  fiery  in  their  appear- 
ance, but  have  that  graceful  courtesy  which  is  characteristic  of 
the  8outh  of  Europe.  Vineyards  and  olives  covered  the  face 
of  the  earth.  At  one  of  the  stations  a  gentleman  entered  Avho 
seemed  to  have  more  general  information  than  is  usual  away 
from  the  great  capitals.  lie  expi-essed  profound  admiration 
for  the  Koszta  affair,  which  he  thought  worthy  of  a  great 
nation,  and  was  sure  that  Captain  Ingraham  must  be  a  hero. 


CARCASONNE. — TOULOUSE.  31 

I  informed  him  that  the  gallant  caj^tain  was  a  townsman  of  my 
own,  no  braggart,  and  one  who  would  have  done  exactly  what 
he  threatened,  had  not  the  matter  been  satisfactorily  arranged. 
"What  interested  me  particularly  about  this  gentleman  was,  his 
knowledge  of  the  literature  of  the  Troubadours,  and  of  the 
efforts  made  to  preserve  the  few  remnants  of  the  customs  of  his 
province,  which  are  rapidly  disappearing  under  the  centralism 
of  Paris.  He  took  it  for  granted  tliat  I  was  a  poet,  because, 
forsooth,  I  had  read  some  of  that  literature,  and  was  not  un- 
familiar with  its  distinguished  names.  P]uropeans,  with  their 
one-sided  education,  have  no  idea  of  the  universal  smattering 
which  most  Americans  acquire,  and  are  eternally  mistaking  us 
at  Jirst  fov  savans.  Even  young  Englishmen  from  the  colleges 
know  verj^  little  of  the  jxist,  except  the  ancient  classics  and  the 
wars  of  this  century.  M}-  acquaintance  once  thought  of  emi- 
grating to  America,  after  the  devolution  of  1830  had  over- 
thrown the  Legitimists,  and  regretted  not  having  done  so.  1 
suggested  that  it  was  never  too  late  to  do  a  good  thing;  but 
he  said  he  had  planted  his  beets  and  his  vines,  and  they  could 
not  now  be  transplanted. 

Nothing  on  the  route  interested  me  more  than  the  distant 
view  of  Carcasonne.  The  new  town  on  the  western  side  of 
the  river  is  built  in  the  usual  style,  but  the  older  portion,  so 
far  as  outside  appearance  went,  is  a  gem  of  the  middle  ages, 
and  seems  to  have  stepped  out  of  a  picture.  Its  lofty  walls, 
machicoulis  towers,  and  massive  keep,  were  as  well  })reserved 
as  though  the  Saracen  had  retired  yesterday-  from  the  siege. 
Most  of  the  middle  age  fortresses  are  so  hemmed  in  by  modern 
buildings,  and  so  much  altered,  that  the  isolated  portions  alone 
remind  one  of  those  old  times.  But  this  is  left  just  as  it  was 
built,  and  I  doubt  whether  there  is  a  finer  specimen  in  Europe. 

The  face  of  the  country  began  to  change  somewhat  as  we 
approached  Toulouse,  and  to  show  signs  of  a  temperate  climate. 
The  city  is  interesting  for  its  liistorical  associations,  rather  than 
for  any  present  beauty.  It  has  one  or  two  fine  squares  in  the 
modern  style,  and  a  grand  esphinade,  but  there  was  much  more 
pleasure  to  be  derived  from  wandering  about  the  irivgular.  peb- 
ble-paved streets,  Avhich  recalled  the  times  of  Jiaymond  and  his 
confreres,  than  gazing  upon  the  glaring  common  places  of  later 
days.  The  numlier  of  fine  c»ld  cities  in  France  is  great,  and 
inhabited   by  pleasant  people,  but  the  concentration  of  every- 


32  SPAIN    AM)    THK    SPANIARHS. 

thing  into  the  hands  of  (lie  (i<nernnienl,  and  tlie  location  of 
that  at  the  capital,  has  taken  the  lil'e  out  of  them.  The  am- 
bition of  every  Frenchman,  noMe  or  roturier,  is  to  live  at 
Paris.  The  gradation  of  all  emplo^'ments  culminates  there. 
Toulouse  formerly  was  the  t-eat  of  a  fine  university,  rendered 
illustriftus  liv  the  name  of  Cujas,  whose  memory  still  lives  in  his 
native  place,  ll  has  been  absorbed  by  Paris.  Thither  young 
men  of  every  oieupation  flock,  ostensibly  for  the  purpose  of 
studying,  and  return  with  the  latest  vices  of  the  Quartier  Latin, 
to  complain  of  the  fate  which  has  not  furnished  them  with  the 
means  of  residing  at  the  metropolis.  I  have  frequently  been 
askiMl  wliy  1  <lid  not  live  in  "Washington.  Charming  idea,  cer- 
tainly I  One  (lay  while  I  was  at  Seville,  a  party  of  French 
engineers  at  the  table  d'hote  were  discoursing  of  the  delights 
of  Paris.  '•  But,"  said  a  Spaniard,  "  every  Frenchman  cannot 
be  born  at  Paris."  "  True,  but  every  Frenchman  can  move  to 
Paris.  I  love  my  province,  yet  nothing  could  induce  me  to  pass 
fifteen  days  there.  There  is  no  place  like  Paris;  it  is  the  only 
place  in  the  world."  "Yes,"  says  another,  "and  the  only  ])lace 
in  Paris  is  the  J^oiilevard  des  Italiens."  "Yes,"  says  a  third, 
"  and  the  only  place  in  the  Boulevard  des  Italiens  is  the  Cafe 
Tortoni."  "And,"  maliciously,  adds  a  fourth.  "  the  only  place 
in  the  Cafe  Tortoni  is  talile  No.  7."  The  metropolis,  like  the 
loadstone  mountain  of  the  Ai-abian  Nights,  has  ilrawn  the  bolts 
from  the  trembling  fabric  of  the  provinces.  1  happened  to  bo 
at  Bordeaux  the  fourth  day  of  tiio  Coup  iVEtat  in  1851.  The 
universal  exclamation  Avas,  what  can  ur- do?  We  must  await 
the  result  of  the  contest  in  Paris.  Jn  1814,  the  surrender  of 
Paris  sealed  the  fate  of  Napoleon.  Had  the  allied  army,  in 
1793,  marched  upon  Paris,  the  French  Pevolution  would  have 
been  strangled  without  ditliculty.  It  is  almost  imp(issil)le  to 
estimate  all  the  evil  effects  of  such  a  system,  which  enlightened 
Frenchmen  are  beginning  to  perceive,  as  it  makes  the  happi- 
ness of  millions  a  football  betM^een  the  garrison  and  the  seeth- 
ing population  of  one  or  two  faubourgs.  "  Cette  belle  ecntrdlisa- 
tion  que  toutr  I'Burope  7iovs  envie,"  is  by  no  means  so  common  a 
phrase  as  it  was  a  few  years  ago.  If  the  landed  gentry  w^ould 
copy  the  Knglish  in  their  attachment  for  a  country  life,  as  they 
do  in  many  less  worthy  respects,  the  evil  might  be  somewhat 
remedied  ;  but  the  efforts  of  Louis  XIV,  aided  by  the  Revolu- 
of  17(13,  have  eftectually  demoralized  the  French  noblesse,  who 


FRENCH    CENTRALIZATION.  S3 

have  lost  the  last  vestige  of  their  local  influence.  The  titles 
themselves  are  fallini;-  into  disiise.  Both  the  Napoleons  endea- 
voi'cd  to  resuscitate  the  aristocratic  idea  by  creating  dukes  who 
did  not  respect  even  their  own  appellations.  As  Duke  de  Ma- 
genta, McMahon  is  nothing,  as  Marechal  de  France,  he  is  a 
great  man.  The  example  of  the  nobility  in  quitting  their  lands 
has  been  followed  by  the  peo])le,  until  the  emigration  into  thg 
cities  has  become  a  serious  injury  to  the  agriculture  of  the 
nation.  The  fathers  of  our  Constitution  showed  their  profound 
Avisdoiu  in  requiring  that  every  member  of  Congress  should  be 
an  actual  inhabitant  of  the  State  which  he  represents,  and  it  is 
a  pity  that  the  provision  could  not  be  extended  to  everj^  officer 
nndcr  the  Government. 

The  present  Emperor  has  not  openl}^  evinced  any  desire  to 
decentralize  Franco;  and  even  if  he  wished  so  to  do,  it  would 
be  too  great  a  venture  at  present..  Indeed,  his  glory  and 
strength  consist  in  a  l)rilliant  government.  As  for  attachment 
to  his  dynasty  or  to  that  of  the  Orleans  family  from  any 
feeling  of  loyalty,  even  he  must  know  that  there  is  not  a  suspi- 
cion. The  notion  is  laughable.  The  various  revolutions  have 
utterly  eradicated  any  such  sentiment,  except  here  and  there 
among  the  Legitimists.  His  influence  is,  therefore,  individual,' 
and  the  power  must  he  jealously  retained  in  his  own  hands. 
But  the  injustice  and  danger  of  the  present  system  have  not 
escaped  his  perception,  and  he  has  eff'ected  great  reforms  in 
8ome  respects.  The  Government  of  Louis  Philippe,  and  the 
efforts  of  those  affiliated  with  him  in  political  sentiments,  were 
dhrectcd  towards  the  establishment  of  a  Bourgeoisie  in  its 
broad  sense.  That  is  to  say,  to  the  concentrating  all  the 
powers  of  Government  into  the  cities,  forgetting  that  by  means 
of  their  superior  knowledge  of  the  art  of  party  organizatiort, 
and  through  the  press,  which  is  substantially  confined  to  Paris, 
the  cities  already  exercised  far  more  influence  over  the  country 
than  the}-  were  entitled  to  either  by  their  stake  in  the  commu- 
nity or  by  their  political  intcgrit3^  Napoleon  was  elected  by 
the  niral  ]iopulation  against  the  wish  of  the  cities,  though 
manj'  of  the  Itourgcoisie  <lid  vole  for  him  from  a])prehonsion  of 
the  Socialists.  He  has  in  some  measure  restored  the  balance 
between  them,  and  iif  so  far  has  acted  as  a  patriot.  The  great 
lines  of  railway  have  been  completed,  the  provinces  have 
received  a  share  of  the  appropriations  for  internal  iinprove- 
4 


34  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

ment,  and  the  life  blood  lias  coinincnced  ri()\viii<r  liack  to  the 
extremities.  All  this  is  entirely  contrary  to  the  Socialist 
Governnjent  established  in  1S48.  The  sole  idea  then  antis  to 
squander  the  jiublie  treasure,  drawn  from  the  whole  country,  rn 
ereetintc  Is'ational  workshops  where  the  idle  of  Paris  might  be 
rewarded  for  lounging  while  the  honest  peasant  toiled  to  pay 
the  taxes,  which  were  to  support  the  iniquitous  system. 
5lareehal  lingeaud.  on  his  first  entr}'  into  the  Assembly  imme- 
diately after  the  llevolution  of  18oU,  exposed  this  abomination, 
and  was  most  unmercifully  abused  therefor.  The  experience  of 
our  own  country  has  shown  that  the  great  cities,  with  all  their 
enlightenment,  are  very  unsound  depositories  of  political  power. 
The  complete  decentralization  of  France  is  perhaps  impossible 
so  long  as  it  remains  surrounded  by  jealous  and  powerful  neigh- 
bors; but  a  great  step  might  be  safely  made  in  that  direction. 
The  blow  given  by  the  Emperor  in  1859  to  the  aristocracxof 
finance,  was  happily  conceived,  happily  timed,  and  most  happy 
in  its  results.  It  had  alwaj's  been  the  habit  hitherto  to  nego- 
tiate the  great  Government  loans  through  one  or  two  bankers, 
such  as  the  Rothschilds,  who  made  by  the  operation  a  certain 
per  cent.,  frequently  without  incurring  risk.  At  least  it  has 
•always  hajipened  that  the  big  suckers  escape  through  the  net 
of  national  bankruptcy;  the  minnows  onl}'  are  caught.  Nothing 
could  be  more  unjust  than  that  the  Kings  of  Change  shoubl 
thus  levy  a  tax  upon  the  nation's  necessities  merel}-  because  of 
the  advantage  given  them  by  their  overgrown  fortunes  and 
ccnti-al  ])()sitioiis.  We  have  seen  something  of  the  saino  kind 
in  our  ^Mexican  loans.  Napoleon  put  an  end  to  this  abuse  by 
simply  reversing  the  glass.  The  rate  of  interest  was  fixed,  and 
investments  invited,  the  least  amount  having  the  preference. 
The  result  so  far  as  the  treasury  was  concerned,  is  well  known. 
Treble  the  required  amount  was  subscribed,  and  the  speculators 
wei-e  deprived  .of  their  toll.  It  was  the  egg  of  Columbus,  and 
hereafter  the  example  will  probably  be  followed  on  all  ordinary 
occasions. 

The  great  encouragement  which  he  gives  to  the  commercial 
interest  reacts  in  the  same  direction,  as  it  tends  to  counter- 
balance the  social  and  financial  preponderance  of  the  metropolis. 
But  all  this  will  avail  little  or  nothing  so  long  as  the  ijolitical 
centralization  continues,  and  that,  in  the  present  state  of 
affairs,  seems  unavoidable. 


JOURNEY    TO    LUCHON.  6i) 

Sights  at  Toulouse  arc  rare.  Among  them  is  a  queer  bass- 
relief  at  the  Cathedral,  representing  Calvin  in  the  8hai)e  of  a 
hog,  preaching.  Undorneatli  is  written  :  "  Calvin,  le  pore  pre- 
chant,"  —  a  relic  of  the  good  old  times  not  yet  gone  out  of 
vogue  in  the  South  of  P'rance,  when  neighboring  villages 
of  different  faith  met  midway  to  discuss  their  differences  of 
belief  by  a  few  "apostolic  blows  and  knocks."  There  is  also  a 
fine  hospital,  and  a  law  school.  But  live  or  six  hours  suffice  to 
see  the  Avonders,  and  about  sunset  I  took  my  place  on  the  ban- 
quette of  the  Luchon  diligence,  fortunate  to  get  even  thai 
amidst  the  thi'ong  of  passengere  for  the  Springs. 

The  country  froin  Toulouse  is  very  different  from  that  we 
passed  through  in  the  morning,  which  had  been  treeless  and 
verdureless.  This  was  Piedmont,  and  the  early  light  of  the  next 
morning  disclosed  the  velvety  turf  of  the  Pyrenean  valley, 
through  which  coursed  the  arrowy  Garonne.  A  mist  hung 
over  the  land,  broken  by  occasional  showers,  but  gradually 
cleared  awa}-,  giving  a  fine  view  of  the  mountain  Avail  that  rose 
before  us.  The  road  folloAved  the  sinuosities  of  the  river, 
ascending  rapidly.  At  length  we  entered  the  stately  avenue 
whicli  leads  to  the  village  of  Luchon,  and,  amid  the  recommen- 
dations of  hotel  valets  and  lodging-house  keepers,  and  the 
friendly  salutations  of  beggars,  Avere  deposited  at  the  Bureau  on 
the  Alle  d'Etigney.  Fortunately  the  hotel  to  Avhich  I  had  been 
recommended  was  full,  and  1  was  transferred  to  an  apartment 
upon  the  square  in  front  of  the  bathing  house,  Avhich  com- 
manded a  beautiful  vieAV  of  the  mountains  and  the  valle}'  of 
the  river,  Avith  an  obliging  landlord,  and  a  couple  of  brisk 
Luchonaises,  his  daughters,  Avho  charged  themselves  Avith  the 
care  of  the  outer  man. 


ClIAI'TER    III. 

BAGNERKES    DE    LUCHOX. 

Situation    and    Scenery — Historical    Reminiscences — Baths — Conipuny — Guides — 
Lac  d'Oo — Vallee  <le  Lys — 13ouean<Te — Val  d'Aran — Departure. 

The  situation  of  Bagnerres  de  Luchon  was  a  surprise.  After 
Baden  Baden  and  the  other  Ehine  spas,  I  was  far  from  expect- 
ing that  any  spot  could  be  found  to  rival  them;  hut  I  must 
candidlj'  give  iny  preference  to  this  pride  of  the  Pyrenees.  The 
mountain  chain  here  attains  in  the  Maladetta  its  greatest 
elevation,  some  twelve  or  thirteen  thousand  Spanish  feet,  and 
presents  those  indispensable  requisites  of  grand  mountain  sce- 
nery' in  this  climate — glaciers  and  perpetual  snow.  The  val- 
ley of  the  Garonne  enters  the  range  almost  perpendicularly, 
with  enough  variation  in  direction,  to  diversify  the  ride.  Bag- 
nerres de  Luchon  is  some  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  (the 
same  elevation  of  the  village  of  Asheville,  in  Buncombe.)  Just 
below  the  town  the  valley  divides ;  the  left  or  southern  leads 
to  the  Port  de  Benasque,  and  by  another  branch  to  the  Val 
d'Aran,  the  right  to  the  Valley  d'Arboust  and  the  Tiac  d'Oo. 
What  had  Iteen  lofty  hills  now  become  mountains,  and  close  in 
upon  tlie  river  which  is  transformed  into  a  torrent.  Cultiva- 
tion of  the  cereals  ceases,  except  here  and  there  a  patch  upon 
the  slopes.  Numerous  subordinate  valleys  branch  in  from  the 
principal  one,  leading  to  meadows  and  cascades,  glistening 
an\id  the  luxurious  foliage  until  the  bare  and  bleak  summit  is 
attained,  offering  savage  views  over  Aragon  to  the  south,  and 
l)eautiful  landscapes  on  the  side  of  France.  The  Pyrenees  are 
certsiinl}'  not  so  grand  as  the  Alps.  They  offer  nothing  to  rival 
iIk-  view  from  the  Col  de  Baunie  over  the  Valley  of  Chamouni 
and  Mont  Hiaiu-.  Indeed,  what  country  can'/  Many  years 
have  ehipsed  since,  after  a  long  morning's  walk  from  Martig- 
ny.  1  crossed  the  crest  and  stood  overwhelmed  by  the  majesty 


THE    PYRENEES. — HISTORICAL.  37 

of  that  scene.  But  it  is  as  vivid  in  its  recollection  as  of  j-ester- 
day.  Except  the  Eock  of  Gibraltar,  nothing  so  deeply  im- 
presses one  with  the  consciousness  of  ^he  utter  insignificance  of 
man.  The  green  valley  of  Chamounix  almost  lost  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  the  bare  rocks  lifting  themselves  out  of  endless  glaciers, 
that  had  existed  and  moved  before  man  disturbed  the  harmony 
of  the  universe;  Mount  Blanc,  monarch  of  all  in  its  spotless 
robe,  placidly  towering  fiir  above,  unruffled  by  the  commotions 
of  man  or  natui-e,  wrapped  in  the  dead  silence  peculiar  to  that 
elevated  atmosphere,  and  so  necessaiy  to  the  enjoyment  of 
sublime  emotions.  It  was  a  place  to  bow  down  and  worship  in 
sincere  abasement,  the  Creator  Avho  made  them  and  us  alike. 
There  is  nothing  equal  to  it  here.  Nor  can  the  Pyrenian  chain 
offer  lakes  such  as  Lucerne  or  Como,  Geneva  or  Maggiore. 
But  then  it  has  visions  of  pastoral  beauty  to  which  SAvitzerland 
in  turn  has  ijo  counterpart;  valleys  that  would  satisfy'  the 
dreams  of  an  Arcadian  poet ;  gentle  landscapes  or  rather  pan- 
oramas rolling  out  over  the  fair  plains  of  Languedoc,  and 
scenes  of  wild  gradeur  over  the  mountains  of  Aragon  and 
Catalonia,  which,  if  not  so  sublime  as  the  Alps,  are  far  more 
impressive.  The  valleys,  too,  offer  moi-e  variety,  and  a  never 
ending  change  of  light  and  shade  is  produced  b}'  ascending  or 
descending  a  few  hundred  feet,  offering  under  a  different  play 
of  light  a  different  view.  From  any  given  spot,  too,  there  is  a 
far  greater  choice  of  excursions,  than  in  the  Alps,  owing  partly 
to  the  opposite  physical  character  of  the  two  sides  of  the 
Pyrenees.  But  it  would  be  better  to  say,  first,  a  word  upon  the 
town  itself : 

Bagnerres  de  Luchon  must  always  have  been  a  mountain 
outpost  of  considerable  importance,  at  least  in  the  middle 
ages,  when  the  rule  among  mountaineers  was  universal  that — 

Those  get  who  have  the  power, 
And  th(i.«e  keep  who  can. 

Durinii  the  eighth  and  ninth  centuries,  the  country  on  both 
sides  of  the  mountain  was  from  time  to  time  in  possession  of 
the  Spanish  Arabs  of  the  Empire  of  Cordova,  and  for  many 
3'ears  after  its  downfall,  the  ^lohainmedan  rule  was  perpetuated 
in  the  countr}'  of  Saragcjssa  by  the  family  of  Beni  llud.  The 
mountains  themselves  were  probably  in  the  possession  of  the 
Spanish  aboriginal  inhabitants  who,  accustomed  to  the  endur- 


W  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

ancc  of  cvcrj*  privntion.  aixl  without  the  sentiment  of  fear, 
•Iwayn  prewn'ocl  an  nctnal  independence,  until  a  late  date, 
whon  tlicy  Imve  snceomhed  to  tlie  enticement  of  civilization  and 
luxury.  Travellers  with  well  stuffed  purses  have  cdntiuerod 
tho«k:>  whom  no  armies  could  suhdue.  Tliis  is  universal  his- 
tory*, and  many  have  wisely  thoui^ht  that  the  Florida  Indians 
mi^ht  have  heen  driven  out  without  shedding  a  tlrop  of  Mood. 
and  at  one-tenth  of  the  expense,  hy  simply  cutting  oft*  their 
Intercourse  with  civilization,  and  suhjecting  them  to  the  priva- 
ti«)n  of  whisky  an<l  gunpowder.  I  fear  the  Luchonais  would 
be  equally  ineapahle  of  resistance.  The  village  was  evidently 
comsidered  in  those  days  a  military  outpost  for  the  defence  of 
the  fertile  countr}-  below.  It  commands  one  of  the  finest 
entrances  for  a  foraging  party  into  France.  The  situation  of 
the  Castel  Viel,  about  which  there  have  been  so  many  disputes, 
would  demonstrate  its  purpose,  and  nothing  could  bo  better 
calculated  for  defending  the  entrance  from  the  Port  de  Hcims- 
(pie  or  Val  d'Aran,  occupN-ing  as  it  does  a  rock  at  their  junction 
and  entirel}-  commanding  the  approach.  Frequently  as  I  sat 
upon  its  summit,  enjoying  the  beautiful  evening  view,  and  saw 
the  Aragonese  peasants  coui-sing  down  the  path,  have  I  fancied 
myself  transported  back  to  the  time  when  the  watchman  kept 
his  guard,  and  would  have  sent  winged  warning  of  the  ap- 
proach of  danger,  and  I  have  felt  called  upon  to  admire  the 
admirable  judgment  which  the  Middle  Age  AYft^'iors  displayed 
in  the  selection  of  such  posts.  The  entrance  down  the  valley 
of  Arboust  is  similarly  defended.  These  towers  are  supposed  to 
be  of  Moorish  origin.  There  are  no  other  relics  left  of  that  do- 
minion. The  Komans,  however,  seem  to  have  been  fully  aware 
of  the  excellence  of  the  water  of  Luchon,  and  a  great  many 
votive  offerings,  made  in  gratitude  tor  a  renewed  lease  of  life 
and  health,  are  preserved  in  the  Museum  at  Toulouse.  One 
is  still  shown  at  the  bathing  house  hero,  bearing  inscriptions  of 
gratitude  from  T.  Claudius  Iiufus  ami  Fabia  Festa.  the  former 
to  the  nymj)hs,  the  latter  to  the  (Jod  Lixoji,  fron\  whom  the 
place  derives  its  name.  Bui  tlic  bai-liariaiis  who  succeeded  to 
the  empire  of  the  Ronuius,  did  not  inherit  their  cleanliness  or 
]»crhaps  their  maladies,  and  the  vii'tuos  of  its  Avatcr  remained 
comparatively  forgotten,  until  about  llic  middle  of  the  last,  cen- 
tury. For  a  long  time  it  was  forbidden  to  search  in  the  liill 
for  new  springs,  lest  the  existing  ones  should  be  injured;  but 


BATHS.  39 

of  late,  excavations  have  been  seientitically  conducted  Avith 
unexampled  success,  greatly  increasing  the  amount  and  some- 
times the  strengtli  of  the  water.  At  present  there  arc  sixty- 
four  different  sources,  all  of  which,  except  eight,  are  due  to 
these  skillful  investigations,  and  the  daily  yield  is  more  than 
eight  hundred  thousand  litres.  Though  the  principal  ingre- 
dient is  sulphur,  the  combination  is  different  in  them  all,  and 
the  temperature  varies  from  80°  to  150°  or  more  degrees,  so 
that  the  advice  of  a  ph3-sician  is  necessary  to  invalids,  other- 
wise great  injury  might  result  from  their  use.  The  bathing 
facilities  arc  superb — ])lunge  baths,  sitting  baths,  tubs,  douches, 
inhalation,  aspiration,  and  every  other  variety,  all  under  one 
grand  establishment,  which  is  regulated  by  the  Government 
of  the  Comnmne,  so  that  there  is  never  confusion  as  to  time  or 
person.  The  alternating  douch  is  verj'  pleasant  to  those  who 
are  not  sick.  The  performer,  in  an  oil  cloth  suit,  stands  at  one 
side  of  a  room,  with  a  muzzle  of  gutta  percha,  or  some  such 
substance  in  each  hand,  and  plaj-s  upon  you  first  with  the 
warm,  then  the  cold,  then  the  warm  again,  then  both  together, 
until  the  epidermis  is  most  cffectuall}'  scoured,  and  the  vigor  of 
existence  elevated  to  the  highest  point.  The  water  is  also 
taken  internally,  but  in  much  more  moderate  quantities  than 
our  physicians  in  America  are  in  the  haV)it  of  prescribing.  It 
*s  strenuously  advised  by  the  attendants  to  cease  the  use  of  the 
water  for  a  few  days  in  the  middle  of  the  cure,  and  leave  the 
locality  entircl}-.  Experience  has  shown  that  the  efficacy  of 
the  treatment  is  thereby  doubled.  The  valley  abounds  also  in 
springs  of  a  chal^-beatc  nature;  of  the  invigorating  effects  of 
the  one  at  the  Castel  Viel,  I  can  speak  from  experience.  They 
say  at  Luchon  that  the  temperature  and  strength  of  the  mine- 
ral waters  increase  in  proportion  to  the  height  of  the  range,  at 
whose  base  they  are  situate,  but  as  Luchon  is  just  Avhcrc  the 
Pyrenees  attain  their  greatest  elevation,  this  statement  may 
not  l>e  the  result  of  strictly  impartial  deduction. 

In  consequence  of  the  spread  of  its  reputation,  Luchon  has 
become  transformed  into  a  regular  watering  place.  The  old 
town  no  longer  suffices  for  the  accommodation  of  its  numerous 
visitors,  and  a  new  one,  in  modern  style,  has  been  erected. 
Commodious  hotels  and  lodging  houses  line  the  Alice  d'Etignj- 
on  both  sides,  up  to  and  beyond  the  bathing  house,  and  all  the 
comforts  of  life  abound.     The   neighl»oring  forests  are  filled 


40  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPAMARIIS. 

with  ^ame,  small  and  lar^jje,  including  still  a  few  bears  and 
wolves.  The  Museum  ooniains  specimens  of  the  bouquetin, 
which  must  be  glorious  sport.  The  bears,  to  judge  by  one  that 
wa«  brought  in  during  mj-  visit,  differ  little  in  size  or  api)ear- 
ance  from  those  of  our  swamps,  but  have  a  more  fcrogious 
aspect.  Verj'  few  visitors  hunt  them,  antl  the  natives  do  not 
seem  to  know  much  about  the  scientific  way  of  doing  the  thing. 
They  are  not  sufficiently  cultivated  to  regard  Bruin  in  an}' 
other  light  than  that  of  a  thief  and  a  robber,  for  sporting  gen- 
erally enters  very  little  into  the  aniusenK'nts  of  the  French. 

The  situation  of  Luchon  is  admirable,  whether  for  health  or 
recreation.  The  valley  spreads  out  to  a  considerable  wi<lth, 
forming  rather  a  basin,  which  is  speckled  over  with  hamlets, 
and  thrc^ngetl  with  the  most  ])cstileiitial  l^rootl  of  beggar  chil- 
dren to  be  foumi  in  Enro]ie.  Tlie  :i<liilt  popiihition  is  entirely 
given  up  to  the  entertainment  of  the  visitors — not  that  they 
are  without  the  cxjtectation  of  a  recompense  :  but  they  have, 
at  least,  the  good  taste  to  prevent  this  object  from  appearing 
too  openly  on  the  Surface,  and  there  is  room  left  for  the  fiatter- 
ing  doubt  whether  your  personality  do  not  enter  for  something 
into  the  i)oliteness  with  which  you  arc  received.  The  local 
costume  is  not  pretty,  nor  are  the  neighboring  villages  distin- 
guished for  cleanliness,  but  the  new  ])ortion  of  Luchon  is  quite 
Kjitisfactory  even  to  a  critical  invalid.  The  bathing  c.-^tablish- 
ment  is  unrivalled  for  its  conveniences,  which  are  peculiarly 
necessary  at  suljjhur  baths,  owing  to  the  liability  to  take  cold 
in  these  damp  valleys,  on  the  north  of  the  chain.  The  attend- 
ants are  ('(jurteous  and  capable.  Take  it  all  in  all,  I  know  no 
place  of  the  kind  so  well  conducted. 

Immediately  behind  the  bathing  establishment  rises  a  spur 
of  the  mountain,  called  Supra-Hagnerres,  whence  there  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  village  ami  llic  valley.  Few  luoi'i"  animated  and 
variegatc-d  scenes  can  be  foinid  than  that  j)resented  by  the 
Allee  d'Htigny  at  noon.  There  are  the  white  hotels  lining  the 
street  on  each  side,  between  tlu  in  the  daik  foliage  of  the  four 
rows  of  trees  arching  abovi-.  ami  bematli  this  perpetual  shade 
a  sauntering,  ever-moving  throng  of  all  nations — the  inhabi- 
tants ii.  the  provincial  costume j  guides  with  close-fitting  Jack- 
ets, a  slender,  active,  jaunty-looking  set;  Aragonese  traders, 
beautifully  and  powerfully  formed,  with  flashing  Spanish  e^'es, 
dark   haii-  and  striped  mantas.     Kvery  now  and  then  a  fierce, 


LIFE    AT    THE    SPRINGS.  41 

half  wild  Catalonian  peasant  offers  the  wares  of  his  province. 
Anon  comes  an  Englishman,  with  a  tall,  strajjping  lad}*  on  eacli 
arm,  in  the  manner  irreverently  styled  a  la  chnnddle  or  en 
sandwich ;  here  a  Parisienne  with  the  latest  fashion,  mouse 
colored  hoot,  and  little  hat,  all  worn  with  inimitable  grace; 
and  sometimes,  but  rarely,  glides  by  one  of  those  matchless 
forms  of  beauty,  one  of  those  pensive  faces,  with  deep,  expres- 
sive eyes  Avbicli  Spain  alone  can  produce.  Every  now  and  then 
the  crowd  opens  to  make  Avay  for  some  city  gentleman  from 
Marseilles  or  Bordeaux,  who  is  venturing  his  first  essay  at 
horsemanship,  with  feelings  depicted  on  his  countenance  which 
all  may  interpret,  but  none  envy.  As  the  shades  of  evening 
begin  to  fall,  the  scene  is  shifted  to  the  little  square  and  before 
the  bathing  estalilisliment,  when  the  crowd  is  increased  bj' 
numei'ous  nurses  and  children,  the  latter  playing  with  distress- 
ing jiropriety  and  regard  for  les  convenances.  There  is  one 
great  want  at  Bagnerres,  that  is,  a  convei'sation-house  or  Kur- 
saal,  as  it  is  called  at  the  Gei'man  spas,  in  some  central  place, 
wliere  balls  could  be  given  and  pi'omenades  made  in  bad 
weather.  The  old  frequenters  complained  much  of  the  change 
which  has  come  over  the  sociability  of  the  place.  In  former 
times,  several  of  the  more  distinguished  guests  were  in  the 
habit  of  holding  conversazioni,  to  which  entrance  Avas  easily 
obtained,  and  the  intercourse  continued,  if  agreeable  to  both 
parties.  Now,  all  is  formal  and  ceremonious.  The  fact  is  prob- 
ably true,  but  it  is  in  the  nature  of  our  modern  civilization. 
We  have  the  same  yearl}^  complaints  nearer  home.  Formerly 
wealth  and  its  advantages  were  inherited  and  had  been  enjoyed 
by  their  possessor  in  the  formation  of  his  manners.  Now  they 
are  most  frequently  acquired,  and  are  no  evidence  of  elegant 
deportment  or  correct  morals;  indeed,  rather  the  contrary. 
But  there  is  yet  a  much  greater  appearance  of  good  breeding 
here  than  at  most  watering  places.  The  whole  race  of  fancy 
gents  is  Avanting;  no  2:40  trotters,  or  long  9's.  The  orthodox 
way  of  passing  the  day  is  to  rise  at  or  before  dawn  and  take  a 
bath,  as  it  is  said  to  be  much  more  efficacious  when  the  pores 
are  relaxed  by  sleep.  Invalids  then  return  to  bed  until  the 
l)alh  fever  is  over.  The  sound  in  bod}'  and  mind  take  a  short 
walk  and  breakfast.  Universal  activity  immediately  ensues. 
Every  species  of  locomotive  apparatus  is  pressed  into  service, 
from  the  donkey  up  to  the  four-horse  caleche,  and  to  the  sound 


42  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

ofcnukiiif;  whips,  echoed  around  the  valley,  llu'  universal  pop- 
ulation in  off  for  some  excursion.  Those  who  <ret  hack  in  time 
repeat  the  hathing  and  drinking  ])rocess ;  then  dine,  and  then 
the  ball,  if  there  be  one,  which  was  rare  during  my  sojourn. 
These  t-xcursions  are  under  the  charge  of  the  guides,  whoso 
Ieadcr>hip,  however,  is  interfered  with  soinetimes  by  powerful 
divinities.  That  ubiquitous  rascal,  Cui)id,  is  frequently  about; 
Diana,  too,  and,  at  times.  Mercur}'.  Be  that  as  it  may,  if  one 
has  j)leasant  ac<[uaintanccs,  the  day  does  slip  b}'  with  astound- 
ing rapidity. 

It  is  in  excursions  that  Luchon  is  peculiarly  rich,  and  they 
are  in  regular  gradations  from  a  half-hour's  walk  to  a  journey 
on  horseback  of  twelve  or  fourteen  hours,  or  of  two  or  three 
days  to  the  summit  of  the  Maladetta.  Walking,  however,  is 
not  a  favorite  means  of  progression  on  the  continent.  For  a 
gentle  evening  stroll,  tliere  is  nothing  more  delightful  than  the 
avenue  on  the  bank  of  the  river  along  the  Alice  dcs  Veuves.  A 
promenade  by  the  villages  of  Mamet  and  Montaubau  in  addi- 
tion orters  a  water-fall,  rather  pun}',  but  a  very  slight  variation 
to  the  monotony  becomes  interesting  at  such  places.  A  visit  to 
the  Castel  Viel  requires  more  time.  The  olher  excursions  are 
generally  made  on  horseback. 

The  tirst  requisite  is  a  guide,  about  whieli  lliere  is  no  diffi- 
culty, as  the  excursions  are  rarely  atleiideil  witli  lisk.  The 
whole  system  of  guides,  as  every  thing  else,  is  under  the 
Government  organization,  prices  both  of  men  and  horses  being 
regulated  according  to  a  tariff,  and  a  previous  examination 
being  required  to  test  their  capacity.  It  is  very  seldom  that 
one  is  dis.satisfied  with  his  choice,  as  the}-  unite  every  requisite 
for  their  profession.  Small,  and  not  so  physically  powerful  as 
the  Swiss,  they  are  lithe,  active',  and  graceful.  Indeed,  as  they 
are  always  on  horseback,,  and  have  especial  charge  of  the 
ladies,  the^'  may  be  said  to  bo  oven  elegant  in  their  manners. 
They  are  ever  ready  to  draw  with  invariable  good  humor  upon 
an  inexhaustible  fund  of  small  talk,  some  of  it  quite  instructive 
to  ♦hose  who  have  any  curiosity  to  penetrate  beneath  the  sur- 
face of  society.  They  have  a  ]H'oj)cr  jn-idc  in  their  country, 
and  are  always  prepared  to  defend  it  against  the  assumed  supe- 
riority of  Switzerland.  Mor  are  tluy  wholly  given  up  to  the 
skinning  of  the  traveller.  They  are  the  jierfection  of  guide  for 
this  iiiaci talkative  if  3-ou  wish  tu  talk;  silent  if  you  wish  to 


LAC  d'oo.  48 

meditate ;  and  having  enough  of  the  savoir  faire  to  be  agreeable 
companions.  The  habit  of  galloping  thirty  or  forty  times  a 
year  over  the  country  renders  them  fiimiliar  with  every  inch  of 
the  ground,  and  acquainted  with  the  effect  of  light  and  shade, 
so  necessary  to  the  selection  of  the  proper  hour  of  the  day  for 
each  visit.  Of  course,  their  knowledge  is  superficial.  But  what 
do  you  expect?     The  guide  is  not  a  schoolmaster. 

The  first  excursion  that  we  undertook  was  to  the  Lac  d'Oo. 
It  is  necessary  to  start  at  an  early  hour,  as  the  effect  of  the 
scenery  is  greatest  some  hours  either  before  or  after  tlie 
meridian,  so  that  da3'light  found  us  in  the  saddle.  The  Luchon 
horses  are  small,  active,  long-winded,  and  exceedingly  sure 
footed,  resembling  our  marsh  tackles.  They  do  not  make  mnch 
speed,  but  they  seem  to,  and  the  pleasure  is  pretty  much  the 
same.  Our  two  guides  kept  up  a  great  cracking  with  their 
Avhips  as  we  walked  down  the  Allee  d'Etigny,  according  to 
the  regulation,  which  forbids  even  trotting  through  this  street. 
The  cracking  of  the  whips  seems  to  be  an  indispensal)le  part  of 
the  performance,  and  it  is  necessary  to  submit  to  it.  The 
magic  word  to  increase  the  speed  of  mules  and  doiike^-s  is 
"  arri,"  which  is  said  to  be  Provencal.  In  Spain  it  is  pro- 
nounced '*  arre,"  whence  the  word  "  arriero,"  a  driver  of  mules 
or  donkeys.  But  both  are  from  the  same  Arabic  expression, 
used  for  the  same  purposes,  and  its  presence  in  Provence  is  a 
lingering  remnant  of  the  Moorish  domination.  Our  horses 
needed  no  encouragement,  however,  and  bounded  along  the 
highroad  as  much  inspirited  by  the  morning  air  as  ourselves. 
The  country  of  Arboust  as  far  as  the  village  of  Oo  was  Avell 
cultivated,  and  for  a  mountain  region  thickly  settled,  in  the  old 
style,  the  hamlets  being  perched  where  they  might  be  defended 
against  a  sudden  assault.  At  Oo  we  took  the  country'  road, 
and  soon  reaching  the  head  of  the  valley,  commenced  a  steep 
ascent  of  zig-zags,  which  occupied  considerable  time.  As  yet, 
though  the  ride  had  been  very  agreeable,  the  scener}'  presented 
nothing  striking;  but  we  suddenly  attained  the  level  of  the 
lake,  and  the  view  well  repaid  the  Journey.  The  stream,  as 
most  others  in  these  mountains,  descending  from  the  summit  of 
the  chain,  forms  deposits  of  water  in  basins  at  successive 
heights.  There  seems  to  be  no  doubt  that  both  sides  of  the 
Pyrenees  were  once  covered  with  snow  and  glaciers  far  down 
in  the  valleys.     The  disappearance  of  these  evidences  of  former 


tJ 


44  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

cold,  both  here  and  in  tlic  Alps,  would  seem  to  militate  against 
the  theory  which  maintains  that  the  world  has  been  gradually 
coolinp:.  But  that  subject  must  be  left  to  philosophers,  though 
wc  discussed  it  at  the  time  with  vast  gravity.  There  are  at 
present  no  signs  of  lakes  below  the  region  of  vegetation,  and 
the  few  that  remain  are  doomed  to  disappear  in  the  course  of 
events.  The  Lac  d'Oo  is  tilling  slowly  by  the  double  elfect 
of  the  cascade  from  the  Lac  d'Espingo,  in  wearing  away  the 
precii»ice  and  in  precipitating  its  debris  into  the  water.  As  yet, 
it  has  not  sulfered  much,  and  is  about  large  enough  to  suit  the 
scenery  around.  The  mountain  cliffs,  denuded  of  all  vegeta- 
tion, rise  nearly  perpendicularly  from  its  western  edge.  On  the 
east  there  is  room  for  the  path  which  leads  up  to  the  summit  of 
the  chain,  so  that  it  is  completely  walled  in  except  on  the  north, 
by  which  we  entered.  Our  arrival  was  well-timed,  the  lake  of 
dark  blue  being  still  in  the  morning  shade,  but  the  light 
reflected  from  the  westei-n  cliff  penetrated  its  waters  to  the 
very  bottom.  It  is  scarcely  more  than  a  half  mile  in  length  up 
to  the  cascade  that  empties  the  surplus  of  the  lakes  above,  the 
roaring  of  whose  waters  was  the  only  sound  heard  in  this  soli- 
tude; nor  was  there  an}'  sign  of  life  except  the  chalet  and  the 
little  boat  which  j)lies  across  to  the  cascade.  Without  entering 
more  into  detail,  it  may  be  safely  affirmed  that  the  scene 
deserves  its  reputation.  The  horse  path  ceases  here,  but  foot 
])assengers  can  continue  to  mount  by  a  cow  trail  to  the  Lac 
d'Espingo,  which  I  did  alone  with  one  of  the  guides,  for  the  rest 
of  the  i)arty  remained  below.  The  Lac  d'Oo  is  between  four 
and  five  thousand  feet  high  j  that  of  Espingo  some  one  thousand 
feet  higher,  but  greatly  inferior  in  beauty.  The  waters  have 
receded  considerably,  owing  to  the  gradual  Avearing  away  of 
the  ledge  over  which  the  stream  pours.  The  margin  thus  left 
is  covered  with  luxuriant  herbage,  and  is  the  pasturage-ground 
of  the  Commune,  whose  cattle  pass  the  summer  here.  At  a 
rough  guess,  the  surface  of  the  lake  must  have  once  been  five 
hundred  feet  higher  than  at  present.  The  path,  if  path  it  can 
be  called,  continues  to  scale  the  mountain  leading  to  the  Port 
d'Oo.  None  but  smugglers  and  hunters,  and  they  very  rarel}', 
ever  pass  this  way.  There  are  three  other  small  lakes.  At  the 
second,  we  turned  off  to  the  left,  towards  the  Lac  Glace.  Here 
there  was  no  sign  of  a  path,  and,  though  the  horizontal  distance 
is  scarcely  a  mile  and  a  half,  it  was  one  of  the  toughest  Avalks  I 


LAC    GLACE. — VALLEE    DE    LYS.  45 

ever  undertook,  and  I  count  mj'self  a  good  pedestrian.  It  was 
very  much  like  ascending  the  p^yramids.  Perhaps  the  rarity  of 
the  atmosphere  was  partly  to  blame,  for  it  is  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  All  who  desire  to  enjoy  wild 
scenery  should  not  fail  to  make  this  excursion.  Its  wildness 
does  not  consist  simpl}^  in  the  absence  of  animal  and  vegetable 
life,  but  desolation  seems  to  have  become  aggressively  positive. 
The  guide  said  it  was  a  fine  place  to  hunt  bears,  but  the  induce- 
ments that  eould  prevail  upon  even  a  bear  to  haunt  such  a  spot 
were  certainly  not  visible,  as  the  prospect  on  all  sides  is  over 
naked  rocks.  The  descent  was  scarcely  less  fatiguing  than  the 
ascent,  and  it  was  long  past  noon  when  we  rejoined  our  party 
at  the  chalet  d'Oo.  A  lunch  well  earned,  and  well  paid  for 
also,  restored  my  spirits,  and  we  cantered  back  to  the  village. 
The  excursion  to  the  first  lake  is  a  favorite  one  with  visitors. 
Few  venture  to  attempt  the  Lac  Glace,  nor  would  it  be  advisa- 
ble for  anj-  who  are  not  willing  to  make  considerable  phj^sical 
exertion.     But  for  such  it  is  the  first  of  all. 

Up  the  Valley  of  Lj's  is  much  easier,  and,  so  far  as  beauty 
goes,  more  attractive.  The  road  ascends  gently  through  pas- 
turages and  by  cascades  up  to  the  head  of  the  vallej".  For 
some  distance  in  advance  can  be  seen  the  Cascade  d'Enfer, 
embosomed  in  the  dark  green  of  the  firs.  I  eftected  a  rough 
measurement  by  dropping  stones,  which  succeeded  very  well, 
to  judge  by  the  agreement  between  the  times.  Above  the  Cas- 
cade d'Enfer  is  another — the  Cascade  du  Coeur.  The  head- 
waters of  the  stream  forming  these  cascades  are  separated 
from  the  Lac  Glace  by  the  Glacier  of  Crabioules,  but  the  scen- 
ery of  the  two  valleys  is  totall}'  diff'erent.  Yesterday  the  face 
of  nature  was  stern  and  rigid;  to-day  it  was  covered  with 
smiles.  This  is  really  the  place  for  a  hunter.  The  little  bridge 
above  the  second  cascade,  the  only  connection  between  the 
banks  of  the  cleft  for  a  long  distance,  has  been  the  death  spot 
of  many  a  bear;  and  as  thc}^  cannot  transmit  their  experience 
from  one  to  another,  it  will  probably  continue  fatal  to  the 
doomed  race.  This  excursion  being  of  easy  accomplishment  is 
very  popular.  The  valle}-  is  surpassed  by  few  in  the  Alps  for 
its  pastoral  beauty,  and  ever}-  thing  connected  with  it  is  in 
unison. 

For  panoramic  views,  it  is  necessary  to  ascend  the  Bouca- 
nere,  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Luchon,  and  to  some  extent 


46  SPAIN    AMI    TUF,    SPANIARDS. 

isolated  from  iho  Pvroiu'cs.  The  journey  requires  a  whole  day 
and  fair  weather,  but  it  is  wortli  the  trouble.  Wo  were  not 
fortunate  in  the  weather,  for  the  plain  to  the  north  was  over- 
spread with  a  haze.  To  the  south,  however,  we  cnjoj'cd  a 
gl(»rious  view  of  the  Maladetta,  and  the  whole  chain  extending 
a  considerable  distance  east  and  west.  Below  us  were  the  val- 
leys of  Luchon  and  Aran,  with  their  tributaries,  their  green 
fields  in  beautiful  contrast  with  the  snowy  peaks  above.  It 
was  truly  magniticent. 

The  etymolog}'  of  the  word  "Pyrenees,"  has  puzzled  the 
learned.  The  Greeks  derived  it  from  the  fire  continually  burn- 
ing upon  it  in  the  forests.  The  inhabitants  still  insist  upon  the 
Pics  Xcrcs — lilack  Peaks.  The  Celtic  scholars  say  Birrcnnou, 
the  plural  of  Jh'r — a  ])cak.  The  peaks  certainly  are  not  black, 
nor  is  there  an}-  account  of  fires  raging  on  their  sides,  and  the 
view  from  Boucanere  would  prove,  at  least,  the  applicability  of 
the  last  derivation.  The  word  which,  by  common  consent,  has 
been  adopted  to  signify  a  "pass,"  (Port  in  French,  Puerto  in 
Spanish,)  is  certainly  from  the  Latin,  though  it  was  not  the 
common  word  used  by  the  Eomans.  No  other  modern  nations 
u/je  it,  and  no  other  ancient,  so  far  as  I  know,  except  the  Greeks, 
though  it  would  seem  the  most  appropriate. 

One  da}'  while  the  rest  of  the  party  were  reposing  after  their 
fatigue,  I  strolled  over  to  the  Val  d'Aran.  A  mule  jiath  leads 
up  to  the  Port  du  Portillon,  which  is  scarcely  more  than  five 
thousand  feet  high,  and  oifers  nothing  remarkable.  The  ascent' 
is  quite  rapid  as  far  as  a  valley  half  way  up,  level  and  well 
cultivated;  thence  it  traverses  a  thick  wood,  and,  at  the  sum- 
mit of  the  pass,  we  enter  Spanish  territory  according  to  the 
treaty,  but  not  by  natural  l)onndaries,  for  the  Val  d'Aran  is 
upon  the  head-waters  of  the  Garonne,  and  the  natural  boun- 
dary would  give  the  whole  of  it  to  France.  The  French  claim 
even  more,  for  the  waters  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Maladetta 
disajjijcar  in  the  earth  at  the  Trou  du  Taureau,  and  penetrat- 
ing under  the  Sierra,  rise  again  near  Viella.  But  their  south- 
ern neighbors  will  scarcely  consent  to  part  with  an}'  portion  of 
the  Maladetta,  which  is  essentially  Spanish  in  appearance  and 
character.  The  Val  d'Aran  is  by  no  means  so, 'yet  such  is  the 
influence  of  government  and  assQciation,  that  the  inhabitants 
of  Canejan   and    those  of  Fos,   both   upon   the   Garonne,   and 


VAL  d'aran.  47 

Avithin  cannon  shot  of  each  other,  are  said  to  diflfer  as  much  as 
Calais  and  Dover. 

A  half  hour's  walk  brought  me  to  the  Spanish  custom-house, 
where  I  fraternized  upon  a  mug  of  milk  and  a  good  segar,  and 
exchanged  a  few  Avords  of  Castillian.  The  common  language 
of  the  people  is  a  harsh  Catalonian  patois,  quite  unintelligible 
to  a  Spaniard.  A  half  hour  more  brought  me  to  the  Chapelle 
St.  Antoine,  situate  on  the  edge  of  the  wall  that  lines  the  val- 
ley.  Whether  this  view  be  celebrated  or  not  is  more  than  I 
can  say,  but  it  deserves  to  be,  for  I  have  seen  but  one  in  the 
same  stj^le  which  merits  a  comparison.  In  the  summer  of 
1851,  a  3-oung  friend,  who  has  since  ^ittained  enviable  distinc- 
tion in  the  world  of  letters,  and  myself,  stopped  for  dinner  at 
the  village  of  Nauders,  in  the  valley  of  the  Inn,  on  the  borders 
of  Tyrol.  After  finishing  the  meal,  the  damsel  of  the  house, 
in  her  grenadier  hat,  put  us  on  the  way  to  the  Engadine,  in 
Switzerland.  Guide  book  in  hand,  we  crossed  the  meadow, 
threaded  the  little  copse,  ascended  the  mountain  side,  turned 
the  edge  of  a  wood,  and  gazed  down  into  what  seemed  a  min- 
iature Paradise,  Avhere  the  serpent  had  never  entered — the 
beautiful  Swiss  vallo}-  of  the  Engadine.  Those  who  have  done 
the  same,  will  need  no  description.  It  was  the  perfection  of 
Alpine  scenery,  and  though  I  have  visited  many  renowned  val- 
leys since,  its  impression  has  never  been  weakened.  The  pros- 
pect from  the  Chapel  of  San  Antonio  recalled  it  instantly,  and 
yields  to  no  other  rival.  Seen,  as  I  saw  it,  it  is  the  gem  of 
the  excursions  from  Luchon.  The  valley  is  quite  broad,  and 
chequered  over  Avith  A^ariegated  fields  of  grain,  in  different 
stages  of  maturity,  extending  to  Castel  Leon,  in  the  direction 
of  Biella.  Towards  the  north,  the  prospect  embraced  the 
gorge  at  the  Pont  du  Eoi,  Avhich  forms  the  boundary  betAveen 
France  and  Sjiain.  Down  the  valley  placidly  floAved  the  Ga- 
ronne, Avasliing  the  subui-bs  of  numerous  villages,  the  principal 
being  Bosost,  and  perched  upon  llio  cliffs  Avere  others,  Avhose 
Avhite  Avails  glistened  in  undctiled  purity.  No  animate  thing 
appeared  to  disturb  the  harmony  of  the  prospect,  as  though 
eternal  serenity  had  chosen  here  a  resting-place.  1  feared  to 
continue  the  descent,  lest  the  sight  of  dirty  streets  and  idle 
beggars  should  disturb  the  illusion,  and  Avould  have  Avillingly 
spent  the  day  upon  the  rock,  Avatching  the  shadows  of  the 
clouds  as  they  floated  slowly  over  the  landscape.     A  couple  of 


48  SPAIN    AMI    TIIF,    SPANIARDS. 

boys  broke  in  upon  my  revery  with  a  request  for  coppers,  con- 
senting,', in  return,  to  dance  the  Jota.  The  performance  was  not 
very  distinguished,  though  given  with  a  hearty  good  will,  but 
it  broke  tlie  charm  and  I  returned.  Descending  from  the  Por- 
tiUon,  I  encountered  a  custom-hou.sc  officer,  a  French  Basque, 
on  the  look  out  for  Spanish  segars,  which  form  the  principal 
object  of  contraband  in  this  locality.  "We  returned  together  to 
his  post,  lie  had  little  fancy  for  the  Aragonesc  and  Catalo- 
nians,  whom  he  represented  as  very  much  given  to  using  the 
stick  upon  each  other,  and  occasionall}'  upon  a  Douanier, 
wherefore  he  ahvaj's  carried  a  gun,  unloaded  for  fear  of  acci- 
dents. He  was  quite  fan»iliar  with  the  adjoining  provinces  of 
Spain,  and  strongly  recommended  a  friend  of  his  as  my  guide, 
which  recomniendation  I  followed,  little  to  my  subsequent 
satisfaction.  On  rejoining  our  party  at  dinner,  I  was  loud  in 
my  praises  of  the  Chapel  of  San  Antonio,  and  we  repeated  the 
excursion  next  day  Avith  increased  gratification,  abstaining 
from  a  farther  descent  into  the  valley,  as  I  sincerely  counsel 
all  tourists  to  do.  With  this  precaution,  they  can  scarcely  fail 
to  be  satisfied  with  the  Val  d'Aran. 

There  were  many  other  excursions  around  Luchon  worth  an 
etfoi't,  and  the  season  still  continued  at  its  height,  the  number 
of  visitors  daily  increasing.  French  and  Belgians  there  were 
in  abundance,  and  a  few  TJussians,  with  a  scattering  of  Eng- 
lisii;  one  family  lodging  in  my  own  house,  with  whom  1  struck 
up  an  acquaintance.  Two  good-looking  young  ladies,  with 
long  flaxen  curls,  questionable  ornaments  to  my  taste,  and  a 
mama,  whose  "bullion  pour  le  petty  (jcrson"  afforded  great 
amusement  to  the  lively  Jjucbonaise  that  waited  upon  me. 
There  was  also  an  American  family  in  Tjuchon,  at  least  I  one 
day  heard  some  persons  at  the  spring  talking  in  a  nasal  tone, 
and  saying  "  nawthin'"  for  nothing,  which  is  an  unerring  indi- 
cation of  a  certain  locality.  But  wo  were  about  to  separate, 
with  a  rendezvous  in  Andalusia,  and  under  such  circumstances, 
a  longer  sojourn  at  Luchon  would  have  been  devoid  of  most  of 
its  iiitei-est.  So  that  1  sent  for  the  friend  of  the  Douanier, 
who  agreed,  at  ten  francs  a  day  for  himself  and  each  horse,  to 
escort  me  to  Barbastro  in  Aragon.  The  rest  of  the  party  pro- 
ceeded to  Marseilles,  to  take  the  steamer  for  the  South. 


Chapter  IY. 
LUCHON,   BY   BAEBASTEO,   TO   ZARAGOZA. 

The  Port  de  Venasque — The  Maladctta — Entrance  into  Spain — Scenery — Venas- 
que — Tiic  Castillian — Change  Guides — Le  Pciia  do  Ventinella — Campo — The 
Beta — Sta.  Liestra — The  Young  Student — Graus — Scenery  of  Aragon — Barbas- 
tro — Company  to  Iluesca — Sertorious — Arrive  at  Zaragoza. 

The  sun  shone  brightly  over  the  eastern  mountains,  one  of 
the  hitter  daj's  in  Jul}-^,  as  we  mounted  our  horses  for  the  jour- 
ney, myself  on  one,  the  guide  on  another,  and  a  third  loose 
with  the  baggage.  The  rapid  rising  of  the  mist  foreboded 
rain,  but  the  guide  stood  security  for  good  weather,  and  we 
sped  up  the  valle}"  at  a  brisk  trot.  The  Castel  Yiel  Avas  still 
in  the  shade  as  we  halted  a  moment  at  the  chalybeate  sprin<rs, 
to  take  a  last  draught  of  its  precious  water.  After  an  hour's 
ride,  the  road  branched  off  to  the  left  towards  the  hospitalet, 
and  we  pursued  our  way  up  the  ascent  through  the  most  beau- 
tiful mountain  wood  imaginable.  Covering  the  steep  side  above 
and  below  down  to  the  foaming  torrent,  extended  slender 
beech  trees,  whose  height  recalled  our  own  forests.  From 
time  to  time  little  streams  bounded  down  over  the  road,  add- 
ing their  lefreshing  murmurs  to  the  shade,  which  Ave  found 
agreeable  enough  after  the  scorching  sun  of  the  valley,  for 
Jean  was  already  in  a  profuse  perspiration.  These  forests  are 
under  the  protection  of  the  Commune,  which  accounts  for  their 
preservation.  Continuing  our  journey,  we  gradually  ascended 
above  the  region  of  trees,  then  the  bushes  vanished.  At  last, 
about  noon,  we  reached  the  hospitalet  on  the  mountain  bosom, 
where  every  species  of  vegetation  disappeared,  except  the 
short,  vigorous  grass  of  the  pasturjiges.  We  here  called  a  halt 
of  a  half  hour  to  refresh  the  animals  and  ourselves.  The 
black-ej'cd  damsel,  who  served  the  wine,  informed  me  that 
upon  the  setting  in  of  the  Avinter  season,  they  all  migrated  to 
5 


50  SPAIN    ANU    THK    SPANIARDS. 

the  village,  leaving,  as  thoy  were  compelled  by  law  to  tlo, 
some  jiruvision  and  n  list  of  charges,  and  llml  :i  theft  of  the 
articles  stt  left  was  unknown.  This  sounded  very  much  like  :i 
canard,  hut  such  was  formerly  tlie  case  in  Switzerland  to  the 
extent  of  leaving  the  shops  unprotected.  The  progress  of 
civilization  is  rapidl}-  doing  away  with  these  antiquated  bar- 
I'arisms.  A  few  years  more,  and  such  vestiges  of  primeval  ff" 
ignorance  will  have  disappeared  even  from  the  recesses  of  the  ' 
Pyrenees. 

The  view  around  the  hos])italet  commences  to  be  interesting. 
Its  situation  is  suflicicntly  elevated  to  afford  glimpses  of  the 
distant  horizon,  and  is  yet  within  the  region  of  life.  The 
tinkling  of  hells  floating  down  the  mountain  side  revealed  the 
flocks  that  were  peacefully  browsing  above.  A  long  train  of 
goats  were  slowly  winding  up  the  track  to  the  Pic  dc  I'Anti- 
c«de,  which  seemed  of  immense  height.  On  the  lett  ran  the 
]ialh  to  the  Port  de  la  Picade,  and  in  front  towered  tlie  Port 
de  Benas(jue,  which  we  were  to  scale — a  naked,  forbidding 
aepect,  relieved  only  by  the  tents  of  a  few  road-workers,  who 
Were  repairing  the  injuries  of  the  last  storm.  AVe  recom- 
menced the  journey  by  a  path  which  my  un})racliced  eyes 
could  not  detect  Irom  the  hospitalet,  though  looking  back  from 
above,  its  windings  could  be  easily-  followed.  The  ascent  was 
very  steep.  For  a  coujjle  of  hours  we  really  toiled,  mounting 
zig-zags  .scarcely  fifty  feet  in  length.  We  finally  entered  one 
ol"  the  basins  so  common  in  the  Pyrenees,  once  the  bed  of  a 
lake.  Then  came  the  four  pools,  at  different  heights,  filled 
with  almost  black  water — lonely  jewels  in  a  setting  of  ada- 
mant. After  that,  was  another  basin  surrounded  by  lofty 
perjKMidicular  walls,  from  which  J  saw  no  outlet.  It  was  the 
dwelling-place  of  desolation.  Vast  masses  of  distorted  I'ock 
lay  hcaijcd  around,  as  tliough  the  ])lace  had  been  blasted  by 
the  curse  of  an  avenging  Deity.  In  all  the  shady  spots  were 
collections  of  snow,  slowly  distilling  the  head-waters  of  the 
(.'aronne.  Overhead  hung  the  ink-blue  sky  of  these  altitudes. 
The  view  towards  France  over  the  plains  of  Laiiguedoc  and 
(Jascony  was  boundless.  Luchon  had  disa])peared ;  its  valley 
had  become  a  thread,  I'Anticade  a  mere  mole-hill.  No  sound 
disturbed  the  death-like  silence,  nor  was  aught  of  life  visible, 
except  the  white  speck  far,  far  below,  representing  the  hospi- 
talet.     We  mounted  on  the  left  by  a  break-neck  path,  sus- 


SPAIN. — VIEW    OF    THE    MALADllTTA.  51 

penoecl  between  heaven  and  earth,  such  as  makes  the  traveller 
feel   himself  entirely   at  the   mercy   of  his  horse.      Suddenly 
turning,  I  saw  above  me  the  Port  de  Benasque — a  simple  split 
in  the  rock}^  wall,  just  wide  enough  for  a  loaded  mule  to  pass, 
and  not  more  than  ten  feet  in  length.     We  ascended  a  stair- 
case of  ziz-zags,  some  fifteen  feet  each,  entered  the  pass,  and 
beheld  one  of  the  grandest  views  in  the  world.     It  Avas  Spain ! 
noble,  romantic  Spain!     Adieu  pretty  landscapes!  meandering 
brooks   and  verdant  prairies!   luxurious  couches  and  artistic 
meals  !^    Adieu  to  the  circean  enticements  of  Europe !     Adieu 
to  a  civilization  which  reduces  men  to  machines,  which  sacri- 
fices half  that  is  stalwart  and  indiridual  in  humanity  to  the 
false  glitter  of  centralization,  and  to  the  luxurious  enjoyments 
of  a  manufacturing,  money  age!     Welcome,  dura  tellus  Iberia;! 
Welcome  to  your  sunny  plains,  your  naked   mountains,  your 
hard}'  sons  and  your  beautiful  daughters!  your  honored  cities, 
sacred  by  the  memorials  of  a  dozen  rival  civilizations,  and 
your  fields  watered  by  the  chivalric  blood  of  as  many  contejid- 
ing  races!     As  an  American,  thrice  welcome   to  the  land   of 
Isabella,  of  Columbus,  of  Las  Casas!     Yes,  it  was  Spain.     I 
reined  in  my  horse,  and  gazed  silently  upon  the  scene.     Di- 
rectly in  front  rose  the  savage,  cragg}'  mass  of  the  Maladotta, 
the  monarch  of  the  Pyrenees,  draped  in  robes  of  eternal  white. 
No   Eastern   sovereign   ever   sat   in    more   solitary  grandeur. 
Unconnected  even  by  a  spur,  it  stands  elone  as  though  scorn- 
ing companionshiji  with  humble  satellites.     A  deep  valley  lay 
between  us,  so  that  the  view  embraced  its  steep  sides  from  the 
summit  to  the  base.     Unlike  Mount  Blanc,  it  does  not  rise  to  a 
well-defined  peak,  but  is  somcAvhat  elongated,  presenting  sev- 
eral points   of   rival   height.      To  the  north  it  is  covered   by 
enormous  glaciers,  from  which   the  disengaged  rocks  go  thun- 
dering down.     The  pine  forest  had  been  prostrated  by  numer- 
ous avalanches,  and  the  bleaching  trees  lay  regularh-  arranged 
as  though  the  triumphing  storm-giant  had  thus    placed   tiie 
trophies  of  his  victor}'.     The  Maladotta  is  so  called  from  its 
terrific  aspect,  and  from  its  interposing  a  dangerous,  and  in 
certain  seasons,  insurmountable  obstacle  to  the  inter-communi- 
cation between  the  vallejs  of  Benasque,  Aran  and  Viella.     For 
a  long  time  its  ascent  was  deemed  one  of  the  irresolvable  prob- 
lems, until  successfully  accomplished  by  a  Russian  engineer, 
whose  experience  in  the  Ural  mountains  gave  him  superior 


52  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

knowledge  of  the  means  of  overcoming  the  difficulties  pre- 
sented b}-  its  treacherous  glaciers.  The  excursion  is  now  safe, 
and  of  comparatively  ea.sy  performance,  under  the  charge  of 
guides  expressly  designated  for  the  purpose.  From  its  snows, 
spring  the  head-waters  of  the  Esera.  and,  strange  to  say,  of 
the  (iaronne  ahso,  whicli  disappear  under  ground,  and  rise 
again  on  the  northern  side  of  the  dividing  ridge  in  the  Va] 
d'Aran.  A  party  was  up  on  the  Maladetta  to-da}^,  and  their 
horses  aiid  attendants  were  visible  in  the  valley  below,  where 
they  had  bivouacked  the  previous  night. 

The  Port  de  Benasque  being,  as  said,  a  narrow  slit  in  the 
j)erpendicular  mountain  wall,  is  a  famous  place  for  the  wind, 
which  almost  blew  me  otf  my  horse.  Jeat>  informed  me  that 
wiien  the  winter  winds  re!illy  do  blow,  the  common  adage  holds 
true,  that  the  father  docs  not  wait  for  the  son;  and  I  think 
myself,  that  whatever  might  be  the  strength  of  paternal  affec- 
tion, it  would  be  very  difficult  to  withstand  such  a  current.  An 
advance  of  a  few  feet  from  the  pass  caused  the  view  to  open  to 
the  right  and  let\,  the  latter  toward  the  Port  de  la  Picade,  the 
former  down  the  Valley  of  Benasque.  Tlie  force  of  the  sun 
now  became  very  great ;  it  was  the  glorious  sun  of  Spain,  and 
its  genial  rays  inspired  us  with  renewed  energ3^  2^or  was 
this  the  only  ])roof  that  we  were  out  of  France;  the  pathway 
immediately  offered  such  an  appearance  as  would  have  thrown 
McAdam  into  an  epileptic  tit.  No  doubt  the  Gauls  and  Ibe- 
rians saw  it  just  as  we  did.  We  found  it  more  convenient  to 
dismount  and  pick  our  way,  leaving  the  road  to  the  horses.  A 
descent  of  a  half  hour  brought  us  to  the  Spanish  hospitalet  at 
the  head  of  the  valley,  a  vile  concern  into  which  I  did  not 
enter,  being  quite  content  with  the  odor  and  the  sight  of  the 
woman  preparing  tripe  in  a  neighboring  rivulet.  I  preferred 
strolling  off  to  the  Esera,  and  taking  an  icy  bath  in  the  shade 
of  the  Maladetta.  A  bath  is  certainly  not  romantic,  but  there 
are  spots,  the  grandeur  of  whose  impression  cannot  be  impair- 
ed, and  this  is  one  of  them.  It  is  impossible  to.  avoid  being 
pMiotrated  by  the  poetry  of  the  nature  around.  The  last 
hour's  journey  liad  utuuistakal)!}^  transported  us  into  a  differ- 
ent land,  morally,  physically  and  geologically.  Nature  wore  a 
dilVorent  aspect.  The  merely  beautiful  had  given  place  to  the 
serious,  earnest,  perhaps  stern,  but  grand — fit  emblem  of  the 
inhabitants.     A  dead  silence,  the  silence  of  the  eternal  snow 


VALLEY    OF    VENASQUE.  53 

reigned  undisturbed,  save  by  the  roaring  of  tlie  water,  or  anon 
the  discharge  of  some  rock  from  tlie  ghicier.  On  my  return  to 
the  hospitalet,  I  found  a  collection  of  Aragonese  arrieros,  who 
had  been  carrying  wine  to  Luchou,  and  were  returning  by  my 
route.  They  were  very  anxious  that  I  shouUl  dismiss  ni}"  guide 
g,iid  accompan}'  them,  which  proposal  I  declined,  as  Jean  had 
e  recommendation  of  chattering  continually  about  one  thing 
not  another,  principally  himself  and  the  dangers  he  had  not 
passed  through,  whereas  the  arrieros  wore  an  air  of  medita- 
tion altogether  too  philosophic  for  companionship.  The  ani- 
mals having  eaten  their  luncheon,  (Luchon  horses  are  always 
lunching,)  Ave  commenced  descending  the  valley  to  Yenasquc. 
By  this  time  the  clouds  had  collected,  and  two  or  three  times 
during  the  afternoon  we  were  thoroughl}^  di-enched  by  passing 
showers,  the  only  set-off  being  the  pleasure  of  convincing  Jean 
that  I  was  a  better  weather-witch  than  he.  The  scenery  of 
the  Valley  of  Veuasque  gains  in  grandeur  what  it  loses  in 
beauty,  though  not  deficient  in  the  latter.  Numerous  streams 
leap  down  the  mountain,  tossing  and  foaming  over  the  rocks, 
but  the  vegetation,  as  is  usual  in  Spain,  extends  only  a  short 
distance  from  the  w^ater's  edge.  After  an  hour  or  so,  we  came  in 
sight  of  the  Baths  of  Venasque,  perched  far  up  the  mountain 
on  the  left,  ( El  Ventuoso, )  whose  steep  slope  is  broken  at  the 
spot  just  enough  to  make  space  for  the  hotel.  A  less  inviting 
prospect  could  scarcely  be  imagined.  Not  a  tree  or  shrub 
above,  or  for  hundreds  of  feet  below  it.  The  solemn  stone 
building  presented  the  appearance  rather  of  a  place  of  punish- 
ment, and  the  waters  must  indeed  deserve  their  reputation  to 
induce  an  invalid  to  spend  the  summer  in  so  forbidding  a  local- 
ity. Farther  on,  we  passed  the  ruined  wall  of  defence  which 
was  extended  across  the  vallc}"  to  guard  against  the  inroads  of 
the  French.  The  country  now  became  thoroughl}'  Spanish — 
stone  houses,  narrow,  high-arched  Moorish  bridges,  stern  moun- 
tains, and  sky  of  deepest  blue.  The  most  interesting  sight  on 
the  route  is  the  Moraine,  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  Pj-rences. 
The  rocks  arc  enormous,  and  sj-mmetrically  arrange'd  as  if  by  a 
geologist.  They  resemble  lines  of  fortification,  and  their  size 
is  evidence  of  the  gigantic  force  of  the  glacier,  which  centuries 
ago  deposited  them  in  their  present  position.  We  were  several 
minutes  in  threading  our  way  through.  The  valley  gave  marks 
of  fertility,  and  as  it  was  harvest  time,  the  fields  were  tilled 


54  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

with  peasants  in  a  costume  partaking  both  of  the  Aragonese 
and  Catalonian.  Various  indications  announced  the  proximity 
of  a  town  of  importance,  and  about  an  liour  by  sun  wo  descried 
the  dismantled  fort  of  Venasfpic. 

Avoiding  tlie  regular  Posada,  we  went  tlirough  the  dirtiest 
of  streets  (Venasquc  is  a  great  cattle  town)  to  a  private  house, 
where  we  were  received  by  the  smiling  hostess  with  rejoicing. 
As  became  an  old  traveller,  my  first  ottorts  were  devoted  to 
pre])arations  for  getting  away  on  the  morrow,  which  involved 
certain  ceremonies:  my  passports  were  to  be  vised,  the  horses 
entered  at  the  custom-house,  and  security  given  for  their 
return.  The  message  irom  the  mayoi''s  house,  in  reply  to  a 
request  for  an  interview,  was  to  the  eftect  that  his  Honor  was 
out  in  the  fields  gathering  in  his  crop.  Two  or  three  visits,  in 
person,  had  no  better  result,  so  1  concluded  to  dispense  with 
his  Honor's  services,  and,  under  the  guidance  of  the  landlady's 
little  daughter,  started  out  to  "do  up"  the  town  Consistently 
with  the  truth,  it  is  difficult  to  praise  the  ancient  town  of  Ven- 
asquc, though  the  antiquarian  may  find  among  the  houses  and 
walls  numerous  relics  of  the  olden  time,  when  the  Moors  gar- 
risoned it  against  the  irruptions  of  Charlemagne  and  other  less 
distinguished  fiUibusters.  The  trade  consists,  for  the  most 
part,  in  the  export  of  wine  and  the  import  of  horses  from 
France,  which  is  quite  an  extensive  business,  but  the  few  nar- 
row streets  are  thereby  kept  in  an  astonishing  state  of  mud,  in 
nowise  aided  by  the  rivulet  flowing  down  the  centre.  We 
made  directly  for  the  parish  cliurch,  which  was  opened  by 
an  old  woman,  jingling  a  large  bunch  of  keys,  and  I  found 
myself,  in  the  most  approved  style  of  tourist,  surrounded  by  a 
group  of  respectfully-admiring  children.  Its  great  boast  is  a 
recumbent  efligy  of  some  saint,  placed  there  by  Don  Fulano 
Tal,  a  rich  citizen,  and  resplendent  with  gold  and  silver.  My 
admiration  was  quite  equal  to  the  occasion  for  it.  A  well- 
dressed  gentleman,  a  relative  of  the  hostess,  as  he  informed 
me,  was  here  kind  enough  to  introduce  himself  and  take  the 
place  of  my  young  conductress.  Ho  was  a  Castillano  Viejo, 
an  old  Castillian,  and  had  the  characteristics  of  the  race — a 
certain  formality,  coupled  with  the  utmost  courtesy  of  manner, 
and  not  only  of  manner,  but  of  feeling  j  a  reserved  dignity, 
founded  upon  the  possession  of  those  advantages  which  he,  at 
least,  valued  above  all  others — pure  blood,  elevated  character, 


THE    CASTTLLIAN.  55 

and  a  reasonable  degree  of  education.  After  visiting  the  jail, 
a  formidable  dungeon-looking  antiquit}',  Avhich,  to  the  credit  of 
Venasquc,  was  empt}^,  we  took  a  stroll  on  the  Pasco.  The 
outside  of  Venasquc  redeems  the  inside.  An  elevation  of 
three  thousand  feet,  (for  the  southern  slope  of  the  Pyrenees 
is  much  less  abrupt  than  the  northern,)  gives  to  the  atmos- 
phere an  clastic  purity,  and  the  almost  rainless  plains  of  Ara- 
gon,  below,  prevent  its  being  surcharged  with  mountain  damp, 
while  the  neighboring  peaks  attract  sufficient  clouds  for  ita 
vegetation.  The  valley  here  widens  out  and  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  crops,  through  which  course  the  waters  of  the  Ksera, 
foaming  over  their  rockj^  bed.  As  this  is  the  age  of  material 
progress  in  Spain,  somewhat  resembling  the  fermentation 
which  took  place  among  us  ten  3'ears  ago.  the  universal  talk 
is  of  railroads.  Among  the  favorite  ])rojects  is  one  to  pierce 
the  Pyrenees.  Venasquc  thinks  itself  pointed  out,  by  the 
peculiar  advantages  of  its  situation,  as  the  proper  place  for  a 
tunnel,  connecting  it  with  the  valley  of  Luchon.  Other  val- 
leys indulge  in  the  same  fond  expectations,  and  as  no  money 
has  yet  been  voted,  an  amicable  war  of  opinion  rages.  My 
companion  felt  great  interest  in  the  question,  and  was  pos- 
sessed of  considerable  information.  Like  all  Spaniards,  he 
was  jealous  of  his  locality,  and  dwelt  upon  its  peculiar  beau- 
ties and  excellencies  —  an  amiable  failing  which  is  always 
agreeable  to  me,  for  I  have  never  found  one  .worth  knowing 
who  did  not  think  his  native  land,  all  things  considered,  the 
first  in  the  world.  Local  attachments  are  pronounced,  by  the 
modern  school  of  social  philosophers,  to  bo  relics  of  barbarism, 
ignorance  and  prejudice,  forgetting  that  prejudices  are  given 
us  by  the  all-wise  Peity,  as  well  as  reasoning  faculties,  and 
equally  for  some  beneficent  purpose.  The  time  may  come 
when  prejudices  will  disappear,  when  one's  country  will  have 
no  greater  claim  upon  him  than  China  or  Hindostan,  and  the 
sutferings  of  the  Bushmen  will  arouse  as  livcl}"  a  feeling  of 
sjnnpath}^  as  those  of  his  fellow-citizens.  But  this  millenium 
has  not  yet  reached  Spain.  Patriotism,  an  attachment  to,  a 
preference  for  one's  home,  is  still  a  virtue  prolific  of  measure- 
less good,  and  for  its  foundation  rests  upon  enlightened  preju- 
dice. Of  all  nations,  Spaniards  have  this  sentiment  most 
strongly  developed.  Everj'-  Spaniard  believes  that  Spain,  with 
all  her  faults,  is,  or  can  be  made,  the  centre  of  the  earth,  and 


66  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

his  own  province  the  centre  of  Spain.  Xor  is  tliis  Rinccro  con- 
viction on  their  part  distasteful  to  strangers,  being  founded 
upon  a  good  opinion  of  their  own  country,  not  a  depreciation 
of  ollu'rs,  the  contrary  of  wliich  rcnder.s  Englishmen  so  odious 
througliout  the  world.  I  should  have  a  poor  estimation  of  one 
who  was  above  this  prejudice,  for  it  is  the  main  spring  td.the 
exertions  which  they  are  making  for  the  improvement  and 
regeneration  of  their  country.  The  varied  necessities  of  life 
frequently  cause  them  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  far  distant 
lands,  but  thej^  cherish  in  their  hearts  tlio  same  feeling  of 
attachment  to  their  romantic  l)irtli-])lacc.  And,  surely,  we 
Americans,  whfl(>  have  such  ungovernable  national  pride,  will 
not  blame  them  for  the  sentiment. 

Aftor  a  dinner  in  the  regular  style,  Avith  abundance  of  garlic, 
I  hap]>enod,  between  the  2)uffs  of  mj'  cigar  on  the  balcony,  to 
express  a  desire  of  hearing,  once  more,  a  genuine  Spanish  aii-. 
A  decently-dressed  person  in  the  balcou}^  opposite,  about  ten 
feet  off,  immediately  produced  his  guitar,  and  performed  sev- 
eral pieces  quite  creditably,  which  gave  rise  to  a  fl3nng  couver- 
Bation.  J)o  not  suppose  that  my  vanity  was  ai'oused,  for  I 
knew  enough  of  Spanish  manners  to  comijrehend  that  I  was 
indebted  for  the  pleasure  to  S])anish  courtesy,  rather  than  my 
own  excellence,  or,  to  use  the  favorite  expression  of  the  Ger- 
man Professors,  that  it  was  subjective,  not  objective.  That 
over,  Jean  made  his  appearance,  with  the  suggestion  that, 
if  I  preferred  it,  he  would  return  in  the  morning  to  Luchon, 
and  the  son  of  the  hostess,  a  competent  person,  would  accom- 
pany me  as  far  as  Barbastro.  She,  herself,  followed  with  the 
assurance  that  her  son  was  a  most  excellent  individual,  emi- 
ni-ntly  a  tnozo  de  confianzd.  and,  by  way  of  further  recommenda- 
tion, he  could  lodge  me  at  private  houses,  where  there  were  ^ 
neither  fleas  nor  bugs,  ni  puhjas  ni  chinches,  (fond  delusion!) 
Jean  expressed  great  doubt  about  his  being  able  to  proceed 
without  the  mayor's  permit,  but  this,  evidently,  Avas  not  the 
sole  reason.  So,  after  hearing  argument,  I  delivered  judgment 
to  the  effect  that  little  stress  Avas  to  be  laid  upon  the  mayor's 
permission,  as  office-holders  are  the  servants  of  the  sovereign 
people,  and  it  Avas  his  duty  to  ha\^e  sought  us  out;  and,  sec- 
ondly, that  I  never  changed  any  settled  purpose  without  some 
sufficient  reason,  and  none  such  had  been  giA^en  :  he  must,  con- 
sequently, continue.      They  retired,   convinced  against   their 


TART    WITH    GUIDE.  57 

will,  and  left  me  to  my  meditations  and  slumbers,  and  anything 
else  that  might  be  prowling  about.  I  had  several  battles  dur- 
ing the  night,  but  the  repose  induced  by  the  gentle  murmuring 
of  the  river  quickly  healed  the  wounds,  and  I  was  up  and  bad 
taken  chocolate  by  the  break  of  day,  truly  refreshed.  Another 
visit  from  Jean  :  a  small  oration,  with  many  gestures,  giving  a 
variety  of  reasons  yv\\y  the  proposition  of  the  preceding  night 
should  be  accepted,  the  whole  winding  up  with  the  alarming 
announcement  that  the  baggage-liorse  limped.  I  immediately 
descended  to  the  stable,  which,  according  to  custom,  was  imme- 
diately under  the  parlor.  The  animal  was  brought  out,  and, 
sure  enough,  he  did  limp  most  decidedly.  Quite  a  collection  of 
the  neighbors  had  assembled,  with  faces  of  exceeding  length. 

^,  The  few  who  knew  a  little  French  re-echoed  in  sympathizing 

''f;tones,  " «7  boite!   il  boite!" 

By  this  time  I  had  perceived  other  reasons  for  changing  the 
guide.  Jean,  though  a  fine  fellow  in  some  respects,  had  evi- 
dently miscalculated  his  familiarity  with  the  road  to  Zaragoza, 
and  his  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  tongue,  but  (lascon-like, 
never  confessed  it,  so  that  I  in  all  probability  would  have  acted 
the  part  of  his  interpreter,  which  "  unluckee  conthratong"  had 
happened  to  me  once  before  in  going  from  Switzerland  into 
Italy,  and  was  an  experience  not  to  be  repeated.  So  I  en- 
quired as  to  the  chances  of  a  remount.  All  around  assured 
me  that  they  Avere  magnificent;  a  superb  horse  for  the  bag- 
gage, a  mule  beyond  reproach  for  m^'self.     I  objected  to  riding 

'  a  mule,  and  expressed  a  prefei-ence  for  the  horse.  They  pro- 
tested, dwelling  much  upon  the  mule's  long  stride,  his  pas 
allonge,  but  I  Avas  allowed  to  indulge  my  fancy.  The  cattle 
were  then  paraded,  the  horse  was  scarcely  worthy  of  the  eulo- 
gium  pronounced  upon  him,  but  the  mule  was  magnificent.  His 
color  was  of  the  most  delicate  mouse,  black  mane  and  tail, 
black  cross  on  his  withers  and  quarters,  larger,  too,  than  ordi- 
nary horses,  and  with  a  benign  expression  of  countenance.  I 
acknowledged  myself  wrong,  and  decided  for  the  mule.  He 
was  then  saddled,  and  a  halter  put  on  him.  XJp.on  this  point, 
however-,  I  was  inexorable.  In  vain  did  the}'  assure  me  that 
he  had  never  had  a  bridle  in  his  mouth,  and  that  mules  went 
much  better  with  halters.  I  replied  that  I  had  consented  to 
waive  my  dignity  in  mounting  him  at  all,  solely  because  I  re- 
flected that  bishops,  and  even  the  patriarch  of  the  Indies,  rode 


58  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

such  aniiual8,  and  that  an  liinnblc  believer  niiglit  safely  follow 
their  good  example,  hut  that  it  was  utterly  out  of  the  question 
for  an  Aineriean  jjrandee  and  colonel  in  the  militia  to  use  a 
lialtor.  With  infinite  reluctanee  a  bridle  was  produced,  and  I 
mounted.  By  the  united  eflforts  of  Jean  and  the  neighi>ors 
o])erating  before  and  behind,  el  macho  who,  like  his  master,  evi- 
«K'ntly  had  stning  local  attachments,  was  persuaded  to  leave 
the  village,  at  the  outskii'^s  of  which  Marcial  presented  himself 
in  all  tlie  glories  of  a  clean  shirt  and  a  collar  of  excrueiating 
dimensions.  Marcial  was  a  sturdy  young  Aragonese,  girded  for 
the  walk.  .\  jiair  of  alpartjafas  or  hempen  sandals,  wliich  are 
preferred  to  leather  during  the  drj'  season,  protected  his  feet. 
Out  of  them  rose  long,  blue  stockings;  then  came  breeches  of 
a  dai-ker  hue  ;  an  immense  sk3'-bluc  saeh  encircled  his  waist, 
and  his  whole  man  was  surmounted  by  a  gay  handkerchief 
wound  in  liandcaux  around  his  head.  Upon  the  whole,  the 
exchange  of  guides  was  fortunate.  Everj'  traveller  will  learn, 
sooner  or  later,  by  experience,  never  to  take  a  French  or  an 
P^nglish  guide,  if  a  reasonably  competent  Spanish  one  can  be 
procured.  Their  jierformance  invariably  beggars  their  prom- 
ises. Occasionally  they  may  be  necessar^^  but  rarely,  as  no 
intelligent  traveller  should  be  dependent  on  his  guide  for  any/ 
thing  beyond  the  functions  of  a  conductor.  "With  them,  too, 
the  connection  is  measured  by  money  alone  ;  whereas  your 
S})anish  servant  is  insensibly  drawn  towards  you  by  a  sort  of 
sympathy,  proceeding  parti}-  from  the  fact  that  he  docs  not 
recognize  any  inferiority  in  his  position,  and  discharges  his 
duty  to^-ou  rather  because  he  is  3'our  guide,  and  you  are  under 
his  guidance,  than  because  he  expects  to  be  paid  for  his  ser- 
vices. I  have  never  parted  from  one  without  receiving  a 
hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  indicative  of  real  good  feeling,  very 
dillVrent  from  the  way  of  the  world  leave-taking  of  your  cos- 
moj>olite,  who.  with  heartfelt  sincerit}'',  cries  out,  '^  Le  Roi  est 
Viort !  five  le  Jioi !" 

After  a  half  hour's  vehement  exertion,  it  became  painftilly 
apparent  that  el  macho,  indeed,  knew  not  the  mysteries  of  the 
bridle,  which  I  despairingly  threw  over  his  neck,  suppl3ang  its 
place  with  a  good  stick,  that  answered  the  purpose  of  a  tiller 
admirably.  We  pursued  our  way  to  the  south  down  this 
lovel}'  valle}',  amid  harvest  fields  and  meadows,  Avhere  the 
whole   population   was   engaged   in   gathering  .in    the   grain. 


DESCENT    OF    THE    VALLEY.— INHABITANTS. 


59 


After  an  hour's  ride  the  road  ascended  from  the  river  bank 
and  passed  behind  an    Eremita,  (as   a  country  church   apart 
from  a  village  is  called,)  between  it  and  the  mountain  on  the 
right.     A  few   hundred  yards  farther  on   it   turned    at   right 
anc^les  to  the  east,  and  otfered  fo  our  eyes  a  most  beautiful  land- 
sca^'pe.     On  our  left  extended  the  valley  in  an  almost  straight 
line  to  the  Puerto  de  Venasque,  down  which  glittered  the  river, 
both  sides  bordered  by  verdant  fields,  like  a  thread  of  silver 
JU^ino-  upon  a  velvet  carpet.    Behind  us  was  the  Ercmita,  situate 
npon  a  craggy  bluff  some  hundred  feet  perpendicular  from  the 
water's  edge,  the  whole  face  of  the  rock  covered  with  ivy  and 
climbing  vines  up  to  the  terrace.     The  valley  was  walled  in  on 
both  sides  by  naked  mountain  chains  extending  to  the  foot  of 
the  Maladctta,  and  the  view  was  closed  by  the  Pyrenees  them- 
selves.    How  grandly  they  appeared   through  that  clear  at- 
mosphere !     The  heavens,  indeed,  seemed  to  repose  on  their 
summits.     The  prospect  to  the  right  was  not  so  grand,  but 
quite  as  beautiful,  for  the  valley  here  widens  out,  and  the  moun- 
tain slope,  from  the  bank  of  the  stream   half  way  up  to  the 
summit,  was  covered  with  fields  of  golden  corn,  among  which 
sparkled  numerous  villages  in  the  morning  light.     After  pur- 
suing its  new  direction  for  a  mile  or  so,  the  river  turns  again  to 
the  "south,  but  we  cut  off  this  detour  by  crossing  the  spur. 
From  the  dividing  crest   the  view  embraced  a  wider  range, 
thouo-h  its  snug  beauty  was  proportionably  diminished.     1  he 
path  was  superlatively  execrable.     We  frequently  met  regular 
bandits,  so  far  as  appearance  went,  dressed  in   the  approved 
style   of  picture-book-robbers,    but   they   were   harmless   and 
polite,  and  to  your  -buenos  dins"  never  failed  to  return  -que  los 
tenqa  vm.  muy  buenos,"  literally  "  may  your  worship  have  them 
(davs)  very  -ood."     Highway  robbery  during  the  nineteenth 
century  has,  for  the  most  part,  been  confined  to  uncentralized 
countries,  such  as   Italy   and   Spain,  and  as   a   natural    con- 
sequence, the  majority   of  robbers  are  of  a  southern  cast  of 
features,  with    dark  hair,  bright  eyes,  and   an  olive  tmge  of 
complexion,  all  of  which  are  faithfully  reproduced  in  illustrated 
works      By  a  natural  confusion,  a  certain  very  usual  style  ot 
Spanish  dress  and  countenance  has  come  to  be  considered  evi- 
dence of  cut-throat  propensities,  and  sensation  travellers  return 
heartfelt  thanks   at  safely   passing  some  harmless  individual, 
wh..se  worst  emotion,  probably,  was  amusement  at  their  out- 


/''■ 


60  SPAIN    AXn   THE    SPANIARDS. 

landish  costume.  Such  is  tlic  origin  of  half  the  tlirilling  narra- 
tives of  robbers  which  have  almost  past,  so  far  as  actual 
experience  is  concerned,  into  the  same  gulf  as  the  long,  l^w, 
Mack  schooners  with  raking  masts,  that  formerly  playecf-so 
con-spicuous  a  part  in  our  sea-talcs.  At  least  it  has  never  been 
my  good  fortune  to  be  robbed,  though  1  have  been  in  many 
strange  and  wild  places,  and  among  wild-hjuking  men.  De- 
scending tlirough  the  wheat  fields,  we  halted  at  Chia,  a  hamlet, 
where  we  breakfasted  in>on  wliat  lia])peued  to  turn  uj) — not 
very  luxurious  fare — seasoned  by  a  little  conversation  with  the 
natives,  the  principal  item  of  which,  according  to  my  recol- 
lectiou,  was  a  desperate  complaint  on  the  part  of  the  grand- 
dame  about  the  diminutive  size  of  the  chickens  in  her  country. 
By  wa}'  of  increasing  her  dissatisfaction,  I  gave  her  a  glowing 
description  of  our  Shanghais,  their  enormous  legs  and  sonorous 
voices,  which  filled  her  with  amazement  not  unmixed  Avith 
incredulity.  The  male  population  of  the  hamlet  was  basil}' 
engaged  in  threshing.  Machines  there  were  none.  The  method 
consisted  in  striking  the  sheaf  against  a  smooth,  flat  stone, 
which  succeeded  wonderfully  well.  The  operator  regretted 
the  necessity  of  using  maquinas  de  saiujrc,  "  machines  of  blood," 
as  he  styled  himself,  but  he  was  no  capitalist,  and  the  land 
owner  resided  in  some  city,  and  thus  the  country  remained 
without  improvement. 

Beyond  Chia  the  road  got  Avorse  than  ever,  until  toward  noon 
we  descended  again  to  the  rivei-,  which  was  about  to  enter  the 
magnificent  gorge  called,  I  believe,  La  pena  de  Veutimilla. 
The  jtarallel  chains  between  which  we  had  been  travelling 
close  in  liero  to  about  two  hundred  yards.  It  was,  perhaps,  the 
most  striking  scencr}'  on  the  route.  The  road  ran  along  an 
elevated  ledge  or  step  some  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  water. 
Above  that,  on  the  right,  rose  the  western  ridge  of  crumbling 
rock,  entirely  devoid  of  vegetation  except  a  few  struggling 
pines.  The  eastern  slope  was  densely  w^ooded.  Toward  the 
south  the  view  was  closed  by  the  ridge's  making  a  sharp  turn 
athwart  the  valley,  while  behind  it  was  visible  an  immense 
horizontal  mountain  of  bare  rock,  with  sides  ai:)parently  per- 
pendicular, which  seem  to  be  a  great  distance  off,  and  fairly 
quivered  in  the  merciless  heat  of  midsummer.  Behind  me,  far, 
far  up  the  valley,  reposed  the  sleeping  Pyrenees.  After  pro- 
ceeding half  a  mile  or  so  along  the  shady  bank,  the  path  led 


DELIGHTFUL    BATH. — CAMPO.  61 

over  a  true  devil's  bridge  to  the  opposite  side.  vSooii  it  turned 
sliai'p  to  the  east,  and  the  gorge  became  so  narrow  tliat  there 
%vaa  barely  room  for  the  stream  and  the  road,  which  frequently 
mounted  midway  in  the  air  erQ  a  sufficient  variation  from  the 
perpendicular  could  be  found  to  yield  it  space.  The  river,  now 
a  mountain  torrent,  chafed  and  roared  below  like  an  impris- 
oned demon.  For  an  hour  the  scenery  continiied  of  the  grand- 
est and  wildest  description,  as  though  the  foot  of  man  had 
never  before  wandered  thither.  In  the  midst  of  all,  I  could 
not  resist  the  temptation  of  scrambling  down  the  bank  with  no* 
littl-e  difficulty  and  plunging  in.  What  a  delicious  bath  !  The 
pale  green  Avater,  of  almost  icj'  temperature,  flew  by  with  the 
velocity  of  the  Avind  and  required  all  my  strength  to  keep  from 
being  swept  toward  the  cascade,  which  was  thundering  a  few 
score  yards  below.  But  the  trouble  was  well  repaid,  for  I 
emerged  the  color  of  a  rosebud,  and  with  the  strength  and  ac- 
tivity of  a  professed  gymnast.  The  desolation  of  the  gorge 
now  became  greater  still,  for  a  crumbling  stone  appeared 
which  offered  no  hold  for  the  trees  and  shrubs,  and  rendered 
the  path  itself  insecure.  At  a  very  narrow  place  we  unex- 
pectedly encountered  an  exceedingly  corpulent  padre.  Neither 
of  us  could  turn  round,  and  his  reverence  could  not  even  dis- 
mount. It  looked  as  though  we  should  have  to  enact  captain 
Riley  over  again.  As  the  padre  was  down-hill,  Marcial  took 
his  animal  hy  the. tail  and  I  by  the  head,  and  we  thus  succeeded 
in  backing  him  to  a  more  convenient  spot,  where  he  gave  us 
his  benediction.  His  face  was  anything  but  tranquil  during 
the  operation,  and  with  reason,  for  any  restiveness  might  have 
sent  us  all  over  the  precipice.  At  length,  mounting  a  lofty 
height  that  overhung  the  valley  into  which  that  of  the  Esera 
was  about  to  merge,  and  turning  a  corner,  we  beheld  the  plain 
of  Campo.  It  Avas  very  pretty,  but  I  fear  more  by  comparison 
with  what  we  had  just  passed  through  than  from  any  intrinsic 
beauty  of  its  own.  The  mountains  retire,  leaving  a  semi-cir- 
cular valley  of  a  couple  of  miles  in  diameter,  well-cultivated 
with  cereals;  and  the  river,  repenting  the  boisterous  days  of 
its  youth,  Avidens  into  a  gentle  pastoral  stream,  coavs  standing 
in  its  water  and  sheep  Avandcring  on  its  banks.  The  tOAvn, 
miserable  indeed,  yet  of  some  pretension,  having  no  neighbor 
better  than  itself,  formed  a  central  point  in  the  vicAV,  and  that 
was  enough  for  a  passing  traveller.     At  the  edge  of  the  plain, 


62  PPArN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 


<)T\  all  sides,  rise  bare,  forbiddiiit:;  liills.  This  was  the  last  of  th 
Pvrciu'es :  lienoefortli  it  Avas  Ara<fon.  a  roasting  sun,  barren 
mountains,  and  a  dr^Mioss  of  atmosphere  most  grateful  to  |By 
owii  feelings,  but  sadly  deleterious  to  agriculture  and  to  the 
beauty  of  the  landscape.  After  passing  Campo,  the  hills  closed 
in  again  up(»n  the  river,  and  the  heat  became  intense.  Fortu- 
nately, Mareial  met  among  the  arrieros  a  friend,  and  that  friend 
had  a  hota.  Bywa}'  of  parenthesis,  a  bota  is  a  skin,  generally 
a  pig's  or  goat's  dressed  with  the  hair  on  and  pitched.  It  is 
then  turned  wrong  side  out,  sewed  up  all  except  one  foot,  and* 
filled  with  wine.  The  open  foot  is  tied  with  a  leather  string, 
and  thus  arranged,  the  bota  is  the  ordinary  means  of  transport- 
ing that  article  on  horse  or  donkc^'-back.  It  may  scorn  strange 
that  this  custom  should  bo  retained;  but  in  some  parts  of  Spain 
skins  are  almost  cheaper  than  wood,  and  are  frequently  used 
in  its  stead,  even  for  military  bridges.  After  the  customary 
salutations  on  the  present  occasion,  the  bota  Avas  produced. 
First  J  took  a  draught,  a  deep  one,  out  of  the  open  log;  then 
Mareial,  then  the  friend.  Ik'ing  ])ressod,  I  wiped  the  edge  of 
the  leg  and  repeated,  Mareial  ditto,  friend  ditto.  The  odor  of 
the  skin  was  too  strong  for  my  disaccustomed  olfactories,  so  I 
"passed"  on  the  third  round.  The  rest  j)luycd  their  hands  out, 
and  we  separated  rejoicing.  The  crumbling  stone  continued  to 
present  all  manner  of  fantastic  appearances,  misleading  me  as, 
to  castles,  for  which  I  was  as  hungry  as  the  renowned  knight 
of  La  Mancha.  One  rock,  some  two  hundred  feet  perpendicu- 
lar and  five  hundred  in  length,  with  a  round  tower  at  its  right 
angle,  presented  the  exact  appearance  of  an  immense  feutlal 
fortress.  As  following  the  river,  we  Avound  around  its  base,  it 
required  little  l)lay  of  the  imagination  to  fancy  one's  self  ti-ans- 
portcd  liack  to  the  days  of  Charlemagne  and  Bernardo  del  Car- 
pio.  and  to  people  the  valley  with  helmeted  knights  thronging 
to  avenge  the  dolorous  rout  of  Roncesvalles.  Later  in  the 
aftei-noon,  vines  and  olives  appeared,  and  at  sunset  we  drew 
\i\>  in  the  village  of  Sta.  Ijiestra,  our  halting-place  for  the  night. 
lj<j:iving  the  horses  below  I  walked  up,  and  after  the  usual 
ablutions  took  my  seat  in  the  balcony  to  view  the  world.  On 
the  wall  was  sculptured  a  huge  coat  of  arms,  some  eight  feet  in 
length,  with  a  knight's  crest;  the  house  opposite  was  similarly 
ornumented.  1  c'n(|uired  after  the  families  to  whom  the}'  had 
belonged  ;  no  one  could  ansM'cr  me.     Their  very  memories  had 


J 


^ 


STA.    LIESTRA. — ANTONIO.  63 

died  out,  yet  centuries  ago  these  devices  had  been  borne  aloft 
by  gallant  warriors,  who  had,  doubtless,  struck   many  a  blow 
for  Aragon  and  our  mother  church,  and  caused  man}-   a  tur- 
bancd  infidel  to  bite  the  bitter  dust.     The  very  hall  in  which  I 
sat  had  perhaps  been  the  theatre   of  knightly  fcastings,  the 
scene  of  gaiety  and  luxury.     Then,  the  gentleman  resided  on 
his  estate,  and  led  his  neighbors  both  in  peafce  and  war,  setting 
before  them  for  imitation  his  own  light,  feeble  though  it  were. 
Now,  he  has  abandoned  the  manly  simplicity  of  this  life  for  the 
Wxury  of  cities,  and  his  virtues  and  influence  wilt  beneath  the 
baneful  shade  of  idleness.     The  parish  priest  alone  remains  to 
sustain  the  cause  of  religion  and  education.     It  seems  to  me 
that  this  is  the  growing  evil  of  our  civilization.      Not  only  in 
Europe,  but  in  America,  all  who  look  beneath  the  surface  detect 
the  progress  of  this  continually  spreading  cancer — the  substitu- 
tion of  a  few  overgrown  capitals,  with  a  fermenting  mass  of 
discontented  paupers,  for  the  healthy,  vigorous,  honest  popula- 
tion of  the  country.     The  facility  of  railroad   communication 
will  do  much  to  relieve  the  ennui   and  monotony  of  a  country 
life,  and  secure  to  its  inhabitants  the  advantages  of  the  city, 
without  imposing  upon    them  its    burthens.      Tliis,  however, 
would  be  only  a  partial  remedy.    The  welfare  of  the  agricultural 
laborer  imperatively  demands  the  substitution  of  steam  machin- 
ery on  the  plantation  as  well  as  in  the  manufactory.     Yet  this 
might  end  in  establishing  there,  also,  the  regime  of  the  capital- 
ist, sympathizing    with   tlie    proletariat   only    through  wages 
grudgingl}'  paid  and  thanklessly  received.     Sta.  Liestra  had 
Buffered  much  from  the  cause  1  have  specified,  but  there  was 
some  good  left.     While  I  was  at  supper  in  a  cool  place  by  my- 
self, a  handsome  young  gentleman  of  engaging  phisiognomy 
presented  himself  with  the  usual  compliments.     1  found  out 
that  he  was  of  some  sixteen  summers,  just  returned  from  school 
at  Barcelona,  a  relative  and  the  pride  of  the  family,  and  al.'^o  of 
the  whole   village;    modest  without   being  bashful,   which,  in- 
deed, is  not  a  Spanish  failing  or  virtue,  even  the  children  hav- 
ini-  an  ease  of  manner,  an  absence  of  mauvaise  hoitte,  remarkable, 
to  say  the  least.     The  conversation  was  very  pleasant  by  con- 
trast with  the  world  outside  of  Spain,  where  the  education  is  of 
the  cramming  order,  and  boys  are  so  dreadfully  wide  awake. 
My  young  friend  had  no  inconsiderable  stock  of  Spanish  p^'cjii- 
dices  and  knew  little  of  things  beyond  the  borders  of  his  own 


9t  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPAMAnns. 

country,  but  than  hi^  thoughts  were  fresh  and  buoyant,  and  ho 
possessed  a  really  poetic-  imagination,  lie  disliked  both  Enjr- 
lieh  and  Fivnch,  knew  that  Auica-iou  was  a  republic,  but  did  not 
exactly  comprehend  the  practical  working  of  a  republic,  nor 
how  there  could  be  a  country  without  a  king.  The  feast  of  his 
village  saint  was  to  be  celebrated  shortly,  and  he  and  the 
curate  were  going  to  Graufj  to-morrow  to  make  some  arrange- 
ments o)nnccted  therewith.  I  suggested  that  he  should  write 
a  poem  {(H'  the  occasion.  With  a  slight  confusion  of  mannov  he 
coufesaod  that  he  had  written  something — una  cosita — a  saynete 
(a  dramatic  composition  ranking  between  a  comedy  and  a 
farcej.  lie  was  anxious  to  kuow  if  we  had  any  picture  gal- 
lories  in  America.  I  replied  in  the  negative,  but  that  the}' 
would  come  in  time,  as  we  Avere  a  young  people,  having  only 
a  population  of  thirty  millions.  At  this  the  hostess,  who  had 
come  to  call  him  to  supper  with  the  family,  uttered  an  excla- 
niation  of  amazement,  crossed  herself  devoutly,  calling  for  help 
upon  San  P'rancisco  de  Asis,  and  took  him  off,  not  however 
before  he  had  given  me  a  lesson  in  the  art  of  making  cigarettes 
and  presented  me  with  a  paper  book.  Antonio  romiuded  nie 
forciblj'  of  the  student  in  Don  Quixo-te.  While  I  was  preparing 
to  retire,  he  returned  to  get  his  guitar  and  some  papers,  for  it 
seems  1  had  been  installed  in  his  room.  Seeing  a  package 
neatly  folded,  1  suggested  that  it  might  be  the  saynete.  He 
informc<l  me  that  it  was,  and  openetl  it.  A  mortal  terror  seized 
my  soul  ;  my  knees  quaked  beneath  me,  for  I  thought  he  was 
about  to  rcail  it,  and  thirteen  hours  in  the  saddle,  followed  by  a 
refreshing  supper,  had  dis])osed  n;c  for  the  "  balmy,"  so  that  I 
would  not  have  relished  the  best  "  Capa  y  Espada"  of  Lope. 
(Little  did  I  then  think  that  I  would  shortly  become  a  torturer 
of  the  public,  a  hostis'  humani  generis,  an  author.)  The  cloud 
passed  by,  however,  and  I  turned  in,  anticipating  rosy  dreams 
in  which  I  was  to  be  wafted  upon  the  waters  of  Paradise,  under 
a  canopy  of  mantillas^  and  lulled  into  obliviousness  by  .the  sweef" 
music  of  faus.  But  oh  !  horrible  recollections  !  Oh  !  night, 
Itlacker  than  the  depths  of  Kthiopial  I  had  been  attacked  at 
Venasqne,  but  that  was  only  ^lagenta  ;  this  was  Solferino.  All 
branches  of  the  service  were  engaged;  "  toiite  Varince  a  donne." 
Their  rifled  cannon  battered  my  reserves,  and  their  Zouaves 
gave  me  no  mercy  at  close  quarters.  It  was  always  a  la 
baionette  and  tctc  baissee.     For  two  hours  did  I  sustain  the  un- 


GRAUS. — JOURNEY    TO    BARBASTRO.  66 

equal  contest  with  direful  deeds  and  oaths  infernal.  In  vain 
did  I  fall  back  to  a  strono-er  position  on  the  brick  floor,  enveloped 
in  a  sheet — my  winding-sheet  it  might  have  been.  Defeat  was 
inevitable,  and  before  one  o'clock  I  had  left  the  fleld  and  taken 
my  seat  b}-  the  window,  waiting  for  day.  At  the  first  peep  1 
summoned  Marcial,  and  reproachfully  imparted  my  misfortunes, 
the  relation  of  which  brought  a  look  of  innocent  astonishment 
into  his  face  as  he  assured  me  that  he  had  not  been  "grazed." 

We  took  chocolate,  saddled  in  hot  haste,  mounted,  and  were 
about  to  be  off,  Avhen  hearing  myself  addressed  as  "Caballero," 
I  looked  up  and  saw  Antonio  and  the  cura  on  the  balcony, 
taking  their  breakfast  previous  to  departure.  The}'  overtook 
us  shortly  afterwards,  while  watering  our  animals  in  the  stream, 
Antonio  on  a  gail3'-caparisoned  mule,  the  cura  on  a  demure 
pony,  preceded  b}'  an  active,  good-humored  peasant,  bearing 
the  sayncte  aloft  in  his  hand  as  though  it  Avere  a  banner.  The 
sun  rose  magnificently,  causing  the  lofty  hill-range  on  our  left 
to  resemble  a  fire-tipped  wall,  and  the  little  church  on  its  crest 
to  sparkle  as  a  diamond.  The  cura  was  a  coarse  young  per- 
son, with  a  sensual  look,  and  poor  company;  but  Antonio  and 
myself  kc])t  up  a  l»risk  talk  during  the  three  hours  that  we 
passed,  threading  villages  and  olive  groves,  iintil  we  reached 
Graus.  The  view  from  the  bridge  over  the  Esera  in  the  morn- 
ing light,  extending  far  up  the  valley,  amid  plantations  and 
luxuriant  gardens,  was  very  pretty.  At  the  town  gate  I  bade 
forewell  to  Antonio,  and,  I  hope,  at  some  future  da}',  to  hear 
that  the  young  student  of  Sta.  Liestra,  has  become  one  of  the 
ornaments  of  his  country. 

Mine  host  of  the  Posada  de  la  Cruz,  at  (Jraus,  gave  me  a 
capital  breakfast,  though  I  disgusted  him  greatly  by  mixing 
water  with  his  good  wine,  which  Spaniards  never  do,  though 
models  of  temperance.  We  then  discoursed  the  relative  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages  of  beards  in  Avarm  weather,  one  of 
which  manly  ornaments  grew  upon  my  face;  then  the  ancient 
glory  and  present  prosperity  of  Graus;  then  the  heat,  which  was 
terrific.  He  counseled  night  traveling,  but  as  it  was,  at  least,  a 
seven  hours'  journey  to  liarl)astro,  I  concluded  to  go  through 
in  the  day.  Indeed,  powerful  though  the  sun  be  in  Spain,  1 
find  that  its  effect  is  counteracted  by  the  universal  dryness  of 
the  atmosphere  and  the  breezes  which  sweep  over  its  plains, 
80  that  there  is  no  perspiration,  and  after  the  longest  day's  ride 
G 


r»0  SI'AIN    AM»    THE    SPANIARDS. 

a  glass  of  cool  water  restores  ine  completely.  The  w  liole  po]!- 
nlation  of  Graus  were  seated  at  work  on  the  shady  side  of  the 
street,  or  under  awnint^s,  as  we  ])assed  out  the  southern  gate. 
I  cannot  say  that  they  impressed  me  much  one  way  or  another. 
After  a  few  hundred  yards,  we  bade  farewell  to  the  Esera.  I 
really  felt  a  sort  of  regret  as  we  turned  away  to  mount  the 
talile-land  on  our  right.  It  had  been  our  only  companion  on 
the  journey.  We  had  seen  it  sj^ring  from  the  glaciers  of  the 
Maladetta,  i)laylully  disporting  as  it  ^vere  in  the  nurse's  arms. 
Hour  In-  hour  had  we  witnessed  its  growth  and  perilous  voyage 
amid  the  rocks  and  shoals  of  infancy,  the  jo}-  of  neighbors  and 
the  admiration  of  strangers.  We  now  letl  it  a  2)lacid,  stately 
stream,  hurrying  on  to  unite  its  waters  with  the  Cinca  and 
the  El»ro,  then  to  be  merged  in  the  boundless  ocean,  and  we 
were  never  to  see  it  more.  Such  is  too  often  the  traveller's 
fate  with  aiiiniate  and  inanimate  creation  alike.  Yet  beneti- 
cent  provision  of  Nature!  that  as  wo  advance  in  age,  the  wide- 
spreading  landscapes,  and  the  dear  faces  we  gazed  upon  so 
fondly  in  our  j-outh,  rise  the  more  vividly  to  memory,  while 
the  fainter  outline  of  subsequent  events  serves  but  as  a  fore- 
ground to  the  i)icture.  For  a  coujile  of  hours  we  continued  to 
ascend  the  elevation  which  separates  the  two  rivers,  until  about 
half  an  hour  beyonil  Puebla  we  reached  a  little  chapel  on  the 
highest  point,  whence  we  enjoyed  an  immense  prospect  over 
the  broad  valley  of  the  Cinca,  and  the  arid,  endless  mountains 
and  table-lands  of  Aragon.  It  was  one  of  those  striking  views 
that  the  horseback  traveller  in  central  Spain  so  often  finds, 
cheerless  but  magnificently  iiiipi-essive,  and  though  oifering  no 
one  ])oint  of  beaut^',  yet  enchaining  you  by  an  admiration  of 
its  grandeur.  A  long  descent  among  oak  and  olive  plantations, 
brought  us  to  the  rocky  bed  of  the  river,  of  which  in  summer 
the  water  occujiies  l)ut  an  insignificant  portion.  We  crossed 
on  a  flying  bridge,  and  I  had  out  my  towels  ready  to  oficr  the 
customary  sacrifice  to  the  nymphs  who  presided  over  the  pellu- 
cid waters,  when  I  found,  to  my  surprise,  that  it  was  postivel}' 
hot,  even  at  a  depth  of  three  feet,  such  is  the  enormous  body 
of  heat  that  becomes  accumulated  in  the  whole  body  of  Spain 
during  the  long  summer  droughts. 

We  mounted  the  hills  again,  pursuing  the  general  course  of 
the  river,  the  bed  of  which  becomes  very  broad — a  couple  of 
mllee  or  so,  and  is  covered  with  large  white  stones,  so  that  at  a 


OAKS. P,ARBA8TR0.  67 

distance  in  the  i;-litterini;-  sun  li<;-lit  it  rosonil)lc(l  a  vast  lake. 
Xumerous  hamlets,  surmounted  by  towers,  were  streAved  alon<i; 
the  eminences  that  overhung  its  banks.  It  at  length  broke 
awa}"  to  the  left,  straight  lor  a  long  distance,  finallj'  disappearing 
between  two  lofty  bluffs,  while  beyond  in  the  wavy  blue  haze 
seemed  the  great  ocean  itself  Just  at  this  point  I  met  my 
first  Spanish  beauty,  a  young  girl  i-idiiig  on  a  donkey.  Her 
face  was  closely  veiled  from  the  glare,  but  female  curiosity, 
perhaps  coquetry,  exposed  regular  features,  a  transparent,  rosy, 
brunette  complexion,  raven  hair  and  dark  dreamy  eyes ;  a  del- 
icate foot  peeped  out  from  the  stirrup.  Judging  by  the  appear- 
ance of  the  father,  the}'  doubtless  belonged  to  the  class  of 
substantial  yeomen.  After  this  1  felt  myself  reall}'  in  Spain, 
and  my  spirits  rose  in  proportion.  The  road  hitherto,  though 
much  thronged,  had  been  a  mere  path;  it  here  widened  into  a 
carriage-way.  "We  were  evidently  approaching  a  place  of  some 
trade.  iSTumbers  of  donkeys  and  mules,  Avith  their  owners, 
were  returning  empty,  and  the  road  was  bordered  with  well- 
tended  groves  of  olive  and  oak.  The  oak  was  called  carrasca. 
I  asked  Marcial  for  the  difference  between  this  and  the  oak 
called  encina.  He  replied  that  -tliey  were  the  same,  oidy  the 
latter  term  was  used  in  Castile,  the  former  in  Aragon.  1  sub- 
sequenth'  put  the  question  to  half  a  dozen  others  in  different 
parts  of  Spain,  receiving  different  answers,  so  that  I  hardly 
know  to  this  day  whether  they  be  the  same  or  no.  Such  is  the 
difficulty  of  extracting  the  truth  in  Spain  by  mere  interroga- 
tion. The  reason  for  my  curiosity  was  this :  I  had  read  that 
the  word  encina  is  derived  from  one  of  the  few  Berber  roots 
which  have  passed  over  into  the  Spanish  language,  viz. :  '•  zen," 
meaning  "an  oak,"  Avhence  the  French  word  chene  with  the 
same  signification.  Now,  the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Zaragoza 
was  principally  settled  b}'  the  Berber  tribes,  and  it  seemed  to 
me  strange  that  this  term  of  Berber  origin  should  have  been 
rejected  here,  yet  adopted  in  the  Castiles.  The  generic  term 
encina,  is  generally  applied  to  all  evergreen  oaks,  except  the 
cork,  which  arc  called  alcornoques.  The  name  for  the  decidu- 
ous is  roble.  Meditating  upon  oaks  and  Berbers,  we  crossed  a 
lofty  ridge,  and  descended  over  exhausted  streams  into  the 
ancient  city  of  Barbastro,  where  I  was  very  nicely  lodged  in  a 
large  high-pitched  room,  with  a  balcony  and  two  alcoves,  in 
whifh  this  time  there  were  ncillier  fleas  nor  chinches.     Marcial 


68  SPAIN     AND    THK    .SPANIARDS. 

lia<l  made  the  whole  journe}-  on  foot  in  tlie  broiling  sun  and 
dust,  and  I  would  not  have  stood  in  his  shoes  for  his  stockings, 
though  these  were  of  the  largest  sort.  lie,  however,  did  not 
seem  to  mind  it.  and  took  his  departure  immediately  on  the 
road  home.  E\  mac-ho,  too,  perfornuMl  his  duty  faithfully,  oidy 
he  was  a  little  too  scientitic  in  the  matter  of  zig-zaging,  which 
operation  he  persisted  in  going  through  when  there  was  no 
manner  of  necessity  for  it,  and  when  there  were  really  zig-zags, 
he  approachetl  so  near  the  ju-ecipice  as  to  engender  a  suspicion 
that  he  intended  slyly  to  commit  suicide ;  but  having  arrived 
Hufelv,  1  refrain  iVom  criticising  the  bridge  that  cai'ried  me 
over. 

The  jaunt  I  have  described  is  one  rarely  made  by  pleasure 
travellers,  nor  could  it  be  recommended  to  young  gentlemen, 
wedded  to  ehampaigne  frappi',  and  an  evening  stroll  on  the 
Boulevards.  But  for  those  who  desire  to  see  Spain  and  Span- 
iards as  they  are,  this  is  the  onl}'  way  to  travel.  In  these  two 
days  I  was  brought  into  contact  with  more  genuine  natives  than 
I  would  have  met  in  a  six  months'  sojourn  in  Madrid.  3Ioreovcr, 
the  scenery  on  a  part  of  the  route  is  ver}-  fine.  The  country, 
too,  has  yet  the  bloom  of  virgin  freshness  upon  it,  so  different 
from  the  opposite  slope  of  the  Pyrenees.  In  consideration  of 
these  recommendations,  I  foi-give  and  almost  forget  the  wounds 
inflicted  \\\)o\\  my  feelings  by  the  inhospitable  denizens  of  Sta. 
Liestra. 

The  scene  from  ni}'  Italeony  was  cliaracteristic.  As  the  eve- 
ning came  on.  the  young  Barl>astriaus  tlironged  t)ut  to  enjoy 
tlie  atmosphere.  One  party  was  engaged  in  a  rampant  game 
ol"  miniature  liuU-figlit.  A/iother  collection  of  six-year  olds 
had  a  (juiet  game  of  cards ;  the  wonder  was  how  they  man- 
aged to  i-ecognize  the  figures  under  the  accumulated  grease  of 
ages.  Here  came  a  boy  with  a  tambourine,  leading  two  blind 
old  guitar-players;  there  a  lady  with  inautilia  and  fan,  gliding 
along  from  vespers.  After  su])ping  on  a  delightful  partridge, 
( j):ii-tridges  are  always  good  in  Spain,  though  cooked  too  dry,) 
served  up  by  the  l)lack-eyed,  soft-voiced  Angelica,  the  land- 
lady's niece,  1  proceeded  to  the  Alameda.  The  Alameda  is 
eU'vated,  and  was  swept  by  a  delicious  breeze  from  the  moun- 
tains; but  the  population  did  not  add  to  the  beauty  of  the 
scene,  so  after  cooling  off,  I  retraced  my  stejis.  Across  the 
narrow  sti'eet,  some  fifteen  feet  wide,  was  one  of  the  principal 


69 

JOURNEY    TO    HUESCA. — THE    COMPANY. 

houses  in  the  place,  whose  occupants  chatted  away  in  the  bal- 
cony till  past  midnight,  varying  their  conversation  with  a  little 
music,  to  the  memory-awakening  notes  of  which  I  was  lulled 
into  sleep.  The  next  day  Barbastro  was  soon  seen.  The 
Bishop's  Palace,  the  Cathedral,  tlie  Barrack,  complete  the  list. 
Nor  is  its  history  more  interesting;  the  only  event  of  any 
importance  being  the  famou.s  siege  by  the  Christians,  during 
which,  some  stones  having  fallen  into  and  choked  the  aqueduct, 
the  Moorish  garrison  was  forced  to  sui-rendcr,  and  the  histo- 
rians of  both  nations  agree  that  unheard  of  atrocities  were 
perpetrated.  The  Mohammedans  narrate  the  common  events 
of  a  sack  as  something  unknown,  and  the  Christians  excuse 
them  by  rage  at  the  death  of  one  of  their  leaders.  That  such 
occurrences  should  require  especial  execration  from  the  one,  or 
an  apology  from  the  other,  speaks  well  for  the  comparatively 
humane  manner  in  which  their  warfare  Avas  conducted. 

There  being  no  inducement  for  delay  at  Barliastro,  T  took 
passage  in  a  nondescript  sort  of  vehicle,  which  was  to  set  out 
that  afternoon  across  the  country  to  Huesca.  It  was  neither  a 
diligence,  nor  a  tartana,  nor  a  galera,  but  united  the  disagree- 
ble  peculiarities  of  all.  My  companions  were  an  elderly  gen- 
tleman, his  wife  and  daughter,  from  Santander,  good-hearted, 
but  not  handsome.  1  pardoned  them,  however,  in  consideration 
of  the  prett}'  girl  they  embraced  at  parting,  who  had  beauty 
enough  to  save  a  city.  They  had  been  spending  the  summer 
with  a  friend  near  Barbastro,  and  Avere  returning  home.  A 
Basque  servant-maid  accom2:)anied  them.  The  corner  of  the 
vehicle  was  occupied  by  a  commei'cial  traveller  from  Zaragoza, 
a  jovial,  impertinent,  middle-aged  man,  who  had  an  ej-e  out  to 
windward,  and  travelled  with  a  cork  ice-house,  the  contents  of 
which  we  found  very  refreshing.  After  getting  rid  of  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  concern,  who  persisted  in  addressing  me  in  such 
execrable  French  that  1  was  compelled  to  summon  a  Spaniard 
to  interpret  it  back  into  Spanish,  we  started,  accompanied  by 
the  yells  of  the  Mayoral,  Zagal,  Mozo  de  Mulas,  and  the  by- 
standers in  general.  The  magnificent  highway  Avhich  is  in 
process  of  construction,  not  being  finished,  we  took  the  com- 
mon road.  Clouds  of  dust,  and  such  jolting  I  Once  when  we 
were  compelled  to  dismount  in  descending  a  ravine,  I  found 
that  the  dust  had  accumulated  to  the  depth  of  a  foot.  There 
was  no  danger  of  robbers,  however,  for  the  Guardia  Civil,  two 


i«.l  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

and  two,  were  periu'tiially  italrolliiig  tlic  road.  Not  far  from 
Barl>astro.  we  passed  on  our  riij^lit  a  lon«;,  lofty  liill  or  lonia, 
irradually  increasini;  in  l)oiii"lit  until  it  ended  in  a  hu<;e  I'oek. 
oxtendiiii;  into  the  plain  like  a  promontory.  On  the  verge  was 
a  huilding,  a  fortress  in  the  middle  ages,  now  an  Eremita,  and 
from  which  it  is  said  half  the  province  of  Huesca  can  be  seen, 
as  might  well  be.  Except  this,  the  route  was  uninteresting 
enough.  The  servant-maid  and  the  Mozo  de  Mulas — a  fellow 
Hasquc — tore  the  country  to  pieces  with  their  tongues;  the}' 
couhi  not  make  up  their  minds  which  deserved  deeper  damna- 
tion. Barhastro  or  its  inhabitants.  I  subsequently  drew  out  the 
mayoral,  who  was  a  native,  upon  the  same  subject.  He  was 
loud  in  his  praises;  it  M'as  a  very  fine  country-,  the  best  in  all 
Spain ;  here  you  could  grow  everj'thing.  Pais  muy  bueno  ;  el 
III ijor  pais  de  Espana  ;  aqu't  sc  roge  todo.  They  then  argued  the 
jtoint  at  length.  At  Sietamo,  the  birth-place  of  the  great  states- 
man, Aranda,  Ave  halted  for  a  few  minutes.  The  landlord  gave 
us  some  mugs  of  his  best  wine,  while  his  two  daughters,  beau- 
tiful as  a  pair  of  startled  gazelles,  stood  at  the  gate.  My  fel- 
low-travellers mistook  me  foi"  an  artist,  whether  from  my  admi- 
ration of  these  beauties,  my  poverty  or  general  outlandish 
appearance,  I  cannot  saj',  but  it  is  always  agreeable  to  be  mis- 
taken for  an  artist.  Your  artist  has  no  evil-wishers  save  his 
rivals,  for  his  aspiration  is  not  alter  the  things  of  this  earth, 
Init  some  itleal,  abstract  conception  Avhich  never  has  existed 
and  never  can.  The  very  character  of  his  occupation,  brings 
him  into  sym])athy  with  the  whole  race,  and  his  only  enemy  is 
the  im])ertection  of  his  nature,  Avhich  is  perpetually  striving  to 
gras]j  the  ideal,  and  as  perpetually  failing  in  the  attempt.  The 
error,  howevei-,  did  not  save  me  from  banging  about  in  the 
machine,  and  we  all  exchanged  most  unartistic  congratulations 
A\  hen,  alioiit  eleven,  ]>.  m.,  we  reached  the  venerable  city  of 
Iluesca,  and  I'eposed  our  battered  and  bruised  limbs  in  the  very 
respectable  Parador  de  las  Diligencias. 

The  principle  personage  in  the  inn  was  the  French  maitre  de 
oiisliir,  who  welcomed  me  Avith  unfeigned  pleasure.  He  had 
lived  there  many  years  Avith  little  satisfaction,  but  it  Avas  now 
too  late  to  return  to  his  former  home — the  old  tree  Avould  not 
hear  a  second  transplanting.  He  had  married  a  wife,  also — in 
short,  the  landlady — yd  could  not  help  feeling  that  he  Avas  a 
stranger  in  a  sli-ange  land,  and  his  soul  Avas  glad   at  the  rare 


IIUESCA. SEUTORIUS.        .  Tl 

opportuuit}'  of  speaking  his  native  tongue.  I  think  he  exerted 
his  utmost  skill  to  delight  my  palate,  and  succeeded,  so  that  we 
became  bosom  friends  during  the  few  hours  of  my  sojourn. 

Iluesca  is  a  fine  specimen  of  an  old  Aragonese  city,  though 
the  hand  of  decay  seems  to  be  upon  it.  The  country  around  is 
exceedingly  fertile,  and  the  water  furnished  by  the  Isuela  raises 
its  productive  capacity  to  the  highest  point;  but  this  of  itself 
is  not  enough  to  maintain  its  former  position.  Being  the  capi- 
tal of  a  province,  the  Courts  and  Government  give  it  some 
little  appearance  of  life  and  elegance,  which  is  wanting  to  its 
rival.  Barbastro.  The  principal  street  is  a  fine  one,  clean,  and 
lined  with  regular  buildings,  and  the  cathedral  is  a  beautiful 
gothic  edifice.  The  view  from  it  over  the  Vega,  and  the  numer- 
ous villages  in  sight — twenty  they  say — is  very  pretty.  Yet, 
notwithstanding,  it  is  painful  to  compare  the  present  with  the 
past  of  this  venerable  place.  One  of  its  noblest  distinctions  is 
still  perpetuated,  at  least  in  name..  Sertoi-ius,  whose  fertility  of 
genius,  grand  talents,  and  marvellous  deeds  in  resisting  so  long 
the  various  Generals  of  Rome,  recall  the  Italian  campaigns  of 
Napoleon,  or  the  cqualh"  celebrated  one  of  1814,  made  Iluesca, 
together  with  Evora,  in  Portugal,  the  joint  capitals  of  his  Gov- 
ernment. Few  conquerors  have  evinced  a  desire  to  benefit  the 
human  race  apart  from  the  advancement  of  their  own- renown. 
Sertorius  was  a  grand  exception.  In  the  midst  of  the  most 
intoxicating  successes,  the  half-subdued  melauchol}',  even  ro- 
mance, of  his  disposition,  caused  him  to  recognise  and  to  seek 
some  higher  gratification  than  that  arising  from  worldlv  fame. 
Among  other  noble  deeds  was  the  founding  here  of  a  school  or 
universit}",  to  which  Spaniards  of  distinction  were  encouraged 
to  send  their  children.  After  years  of  warfare,  the  Romans, 
despairing  of  victory  in  the  open  field,  were  saved  by  the  faith- 
less Perpenna,  who  caused  the  hero  to  be  assassinated  at  a  feast. 
On  opening  his  will,  the  vile  traitor  was  found  to  be  the  chief 
object  of  his  bounty.  With  him  perished  the  institutions  he 
had  planted,  but  many  centuries  after,  the  university-  was  re- 
established, and  in  memory  of  its  first  founder,  received  the 
appropriate  name  of  La  Scrtoriana.  Its  glories,  however,  have 
decayed  with  the  decaj'ing  fortunes  of  the  city.  It  is  a  high- 
school  rather  than  a  university,  and  of  its  former  grandeur 
retains  only  the  name. 

I  made  a  desperate  efi'ort  to  enjoy  Huesca,  but  one  morning 


72  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPAXIARDS. 

exhausted  its  wonders,  and  for  a  stranger,  its  agreoabilities. 
The  diligence  to  Zaragoza,  in  which  I  had  secured  a  phice, 
passed  over  a  fine  road,  but  through  a  parcliod,  wind-blown 
country,  until  it  reached  the  valley  of  the  Ebro,  and  then 
nature  put  on  her  fairest  robes.  The  water  of  the  river,  drawn 
off  through  a  hundred  canals,  converted  its  Vega  into  a  gartlen 
groaning  beneath  crops  of  every  description,  both  tropical  and 
temperate.  Threading  these  evidences  of  exuberant  fertility, 
we  crttssed  a  magnificent  bridge,  and  entered  the  world-rc- 
nowncd  cajdtal  of  Aragon. 


Chapter  V. 
ZAEAGOZA— JOURNEY  TO  MADRID. 

Maid  of  Zarago/.a — Siege — The  Seo — El  Pilar — The  Miracle — Casa  de  Diputa- 
cion — Aragdiiesc  Liberty — Panorama — Aljafcria — Life — Journey — Spanish  Dili- 
gence— Accident — Calatayud — Alcolea  del  Pinar — A  Spanish  Beauty — Guadala- 
jara— The  Mendozas — Alcala. 

"Roughing  it''  is  very  pleasant,  but  I  confess  it  was  refresh- 
ing once  more  to  see  an  iron  bedstead,  a  footbatli,  and  the 
other  appliances  of  a  first-rate  hotel.  Drawing  the  bed  out  of 
the  alcove,  which,  though  ornamental,  is  an  abominable  place 
to  spend  the  night  in,  1  slept  soundly,  being  disturbed  only  by 
dreaming  that  the  French  were  bombarding  the  city,  and 
awakening  to  find  the  Barcelona  diligence  rushing  at  half- 
speed  beneath  the  window,  through  the  Coso,  as  the  principal 
street  is  called.  Sunrise  found  me  pacing  around  the  walls — 
not  so  diflicult  a  task  as  one  would  suppose,  and  at  that  hour 
of  the  day,  under  the  shady  avenues,  rather  a  ])leasant  prom- 
enade. This  accomplished,  and  a  general  notion  of  the  city 
obtained,  I  at  once  proceeded  in  search  of  el  PortUlo,  the  gate 
where  Agostina,  the  famous  Maid  of  Zaragoza,  snatched  the 
torch  from  the  d^-ing  artilleryman  and  sent  fiery  death  into  the 
ranks  of  her  country's  foes.  A  cicerone  had  been  procured  for 
me  at  the  hotel,  and,  it  seems,  had  been  on  the  steps  waiting  as 
I  i^assed,  but,  in  truth,  he  had  such  a  Jose  Maria  air  that  no 
one  would  have  thought  him  engaged  in  so  peaceful  an  occupa- 
tion, and  he  turned  out,  in  fact,  to  know  less  of  the  place  than 
I  did  myself.  Wiiile  I  was,  therefore,  engaged  in  making 
enquiries  among  the  loiterers  around  the  Portillo,  a  person 
passed,  who,  fortunately^  could  point  out  the  very  spot  where 
the  heroine  stood,  about  a  hundred  yai'ds  inside  of  the  present 
gate.  His  father  was  a  prisoner  at  the  time,  but  his  mother 
had  witnessed  the  occurrence,  and  often  described  it  to  him.    I 


74  SPAIN    AMI    THE    SPANIARDS. 

stood  reverently  upon  the  lialloweil  ground,  for  if  there  is  an}'- 
thing  in  history  worthy  of  admiration,  it  is  tlie  conduct  of  the 
women  of  Zaragoza,  both  peasant  and  noble,  in  their  resist- 
ance to  the  most  unjust  of  aggressions,  and  against  a  mighty 
con<pieror,  at  the  sound  of  whose  footsteps  all  Europe  trem- 
bled. The  heroine  of  this  incident  is  most  conspicuously  known 
to  fame,  but  there  were  hundreds  of  others  who,  like  the 
Countess  of  Bureta,  amid  the  roar  of  artillery  and  the  crash  of 
their  liomes.  faithfully  and  fearlessly  discliarged  their  duty  to 
the  living  and  the  dying — objects  of  sacred  imitation.  The 
resistance  offered  is  surprising,  wlu>n  we  reflect  that  Zaragoza 
is  without  walls  capable  of  withstanding  artillery,  and  that  up 
to  this  period  the  f^rench  had  scared}'  found  an}'  in  Europe 
who  dared  to  oppose  them  longer  than  a  few  montlis.  and  then 
only  after  great  preparation.  But  the  physical  and  material  is 
a  small  part  of  the  siege  of  Zaragoza:  it  is  the  moral  that 
redounds  so  much  to  the  credit  of  its  defenders,  and  sbows  in 
such  striking  and  peculiar  colors  the  character  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Aragon,  A  comparative  handful  of  troops,  with  no 
hope  of  aid  from  without,  and  no  definite  end  in  view,  actuated 
simply  by  a  hatred  of  submission  to  the  invader,  braved  the 
hitherto  unconquered  terror  of  the  world,  and  with  such  suc- 
cess that  it  seemed  as  though  the  personal  attention  of  the 
great  war  god  himself  would  be  necessary  for  its  reduction. 
After  the  breach  of  the  outer  wall  had  been  effected,  the  contest 
was  continued  from  house  to  house  with  bayonet  and  knife. 
The  passage  of  the  streets  was  as  dangerous  as  crossing  the 
ditch  of  a  fortress.  Even  when  the  French  reached  the  Coso, 
every  eti'ort  to  seize  the  houses  on  the  opposite  side  was  for  a 
long  time  baffled.  The  defence  of  Zaragoza  ma}-  have  been 
an  isolated  effort  leading  to  no  tangible  result,  and  an  error  in 
a  mere  strategical  ])oint  of  view,  but  its  moral  effect  is  not 
thus  to  be  measured,  as  it  furnished  a  model  for  the  resistance 
of  the  S]janiar(ls  during  the  whole  war.  The  siege  of  Gerona, 
during  the  same  mighty  contest,  that  of  Barcelona  in  1828,  and 
of  Saguntum  and  Numantia  in  ancient  history,  ai'e  j^arallel 
instances  of  the  same  spirit.  From  time  immemorial,  the  Ara- 
gonese  have  been  noted  for  obstinacy  of  character  and  fixed- 
ness of  purpose.  Less  fortunate  in  external  polish  than  perhaps 
other  portions  of  their  countrj^nen,  they  amply  compensate  for 
its  absence  by  the  more  solid  virtues.     Industrious,  energetic, 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    ARA(iONESE.  /  0 

possessing  in  an  eminent  degree  what  the  French  call  droiture, 
they  have  always  enjoj^ed  more  of  practical  liberty  than  was 
the  usual  lot  of  the  Peninsula,  though  their  province  produced 
few  of  the  exalted  geniuses  which  bore  so  ])roudly  alolt  the 
flag  of  old  Spain.  Even  down  to  the  time  of  JMiiliji  H,  during 
the  age  of  Charles  V,  of  Henry  VIII,  and  Elizabeth,  they  main- 
tained their  independence  of  (he  royal  authority.  It  is  true, 
this  attachment  to  liberty  sonietiiurs  runs  into  extremes,  and 
the  common  people  are  much  given  to  be  camorrista,  or  head- 
breaking;  but  when  there  is  occasion  for  it,  they  are  never 
backward  in  giving  a  fair  share  to  the  enemies  of  their  coun-' 
try,  which  makes  amends  for  little  faults  at  home. 

Zaragoza  boasts  two  cathedrals,  which  appear  conspicuousl}'" 
on  approaching  the  city.  The  most  ancient  is  styled  the  Seo, 
the  old  Tiimousin  word  for  cathedral,  a  grand,  venerable  struc- 
ture, though  blocked  up,  as  such  edifices  too  frequently  arc,  by 
all  sorts  of  inferior  buildings.  It  would  be  scarcely  possible  to 
enter  into  a  minute  description  of  its  treasures,  without  copy- 
ing confidingly  from  Ponz  and  other  books,  as  the  faint  light 
scarcely  affords  the  traveller  an  opportunity  of  seeing,  much 
less  of  criticising  them.  The  general  elfect  in  the  morning  Avas 
exceedingly  impressive.  Badly  lighted  at  best,  the  interior,  at 
that  early  hour,  was  shrouded  in  gloom — a  few  rays  only 
struggled  down  from  the  dome;  the  whole  producing  the  soft 
influence  which  such  edifices  should.  The  chapels  contain 
man}^  magnificent  funeral  monuments,  the  grandest  of  which, 
according  to  the  usual  fate,  honors  the  least  worthy — the  inqui- 
sitor, Pedro  Arbuez,  whose  cruelties  and  oppressions  drove  the 
])opulation  to  madness.  One  of  the  gi'cat  patrons  of  the  Seo 
Avas  tlie  Cardinal  Pedro  de  Luna,  a  schismatic  Pope,  under  the 
title  of  Benedict  XIII,  who  is  here  commemorated.  With 
true  Aragoncse  obstinacy,  he  resisted  all  attempts  to  procure 
his  resignation.  It  is  narrated  that  on  the  introduction  of  a 
delegation  of  black  friars  from  the  Council  of  Constance  upon 
some  such  errand,  he  exclaimed:  "here  come  the  crows." 
"  Where  the  carcase  is,  thither  come  the  crows,"  wittily  replied 
one  of  the  brethren.  But  wit  was  as  ineflfectual  as  violence; 
he  died  at  the  age  of  ninety,  defying  his  enemies  to  the  last, 
like  a  true  Iberian. 

From  the  Seo  I  ])roceeded  immediately  to  the  Cathedral  of 
Nuestra  Senora  del  Pilar.     Near  the  steps  a  beggar  held  out 


76  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

his  hand,  in  wliich  I  placed  a  copper.  Another,  who  appeared 
equally  meritorious,  came  forward  ;  it  would  seem  partiality  to 
refuse  him.  Two  women  now  advanced  with  like  recommend- 
ations. I'nfortunately.  this  last  act  of  licneficencc  took  place 
at  the  entrance,  and  half  a  dozen  rushed  forward  to  the  Sama- 
ritan, so  unexpectedly  dropped  from  Heaven,  ci-ying  "Seiiorito! 
una  limosiia  para  el  amor  de  Dios  I"  This  was  too  much,  and  I 
took  refui^e  incoiitinentl}'  hchind  the  fount  of  holy  water, 
which  they  could  not  pass.  They  were  the  onl}'  ones  I  encoun- 
tered from  Venasque  to  Madrid,  and  that,  too,  in  a  country 
where,  if  you  believe  travellers,  beggars  compose  half  of  the 
pojuilation. 

The  Cathedral  of  our  Lady  of  the  Pillar,  an  enormous  struc- 
ture some  five  hundred  feet  in  length,  Avas  as  full  of  light  as 
the  Seo  had  been  of  darkness,  and  for  this  reason  the  first 
impression  was  an  unpleasant  one.  It  was  impossible  to  avoid 
seeing  what  was  going  on,  and  everybody  and  evcr^'thing 
within  the  walls,  so  that  the  congregation  must  have  continu- 
allj'  felt  that  the}'  were  in  the  world  and  of  it.  The  verj'  mag- 
nificence of  the  choir  and  the  high  altar  was  disagreeable,  as 
the  mind  was  filled  with  what  you  saw,  and  existence  was  an 
existence  of  the  eyes.  Kor  during  n\y  6ti\y  in  Zaragoza  was  I 
able  to  overcome  the  first  impression;  whereas,  a  visit  to  the 
Seo  was  always  productive  of  pleasure.  The  original  cathedral 
was  erected  to  coinniemorale  the  descent  of  the  A''irgin  u])on  a 
certain  ])illar,  since  held  in  great  veneration,  and  enclosed  in  a 
chapel  especialh"  dedicated  to  the  purpose,  which,  by  wa}'  of 
exception,  is  built  in  the  bod}'  of  the  church.  It  is  an  oval, 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  and  of  a  i-iclmess  of  decoration  un- 
bounded. According  to  the  tradition,  St.  James  had  been 
instructed  by  her  to  erect  a  temple  upon  the  spot  where  the 
new  religion  should  be  most  favorably  received.  In  compliance 
with  her  request,  ho  had  Avandered  through  many  lands,  and 
was  finally  engaged  in  baptising  the  faithful  in  the  waters  of 
the  Ebro,  when  a  bright  effulgence  displayed  the  Queen  of 
Heaven  upon  this  pillar,  pointing  out  the  chosen  spot.  A  mass 
was  celebrating  as  I  entered.  It  Avas,  of  course,  numerously 
attended,  and,  apparently,  by  persons  deeply  imbued  Avith  feel- 
ings of  devotion.  My  attention  Avas  particular!}'  attracted  to  a 
beggar  in  the  depths  of  poverty  and  misery,  if  his  outAvard 
man  corresponded  Avith  his  real  circumstances.     Dirty,  shriA'- 


THE    PILLAR. — BKLIEF    IN    THE    MIRACLE.  77 

elled,  and  vesting  upon  two  crutches,  he  limped  up  to  the  grat- 
ing in  front  of  the  altar  and  threw  in,  one  by  one,  coppers  to  an 
amount  that,  by  a  reasonable  calculation,  might  have  supported 
him  a  whole  week.  It  would  be  useless  to  question  the  sincer- 
ity of  his  belief  The  rest  of  the  worshippers,  though  not  so 
demonstrative,  were,  doubtless,  equally  in  earnest,  as  their 
countenance,  plainly  evinced. 

I  took  my  place  among  them  on  bended  knees.  True,  I  did 
not  believe  that  the  Virgin  had  descended  upon  the  pillar,  any 
more  than  a  great  manj-  good  Catholics.  Yet,  there  was  a  cer- 
tain pleasure  in  participating  in  the  worship.  Was  it  religion? 
was  it  poetry?  was  it  sjnnpathy  with  the  bj^-standcrs  ? .  or  was 
it  a  mere  revery  ?  I  cannot  answer  satisfactorily  even  to  my- 
self; but  it  was  a  pure,  placid  emotion,  that  I  have  often  felt 
upon  such  occasions,  and  which,  if  not  religion,  is  very  nearl}' 
allied  to  it.  Some  Protestants  regard  such  ceremonies  and 
those  who  participate  in  them  with  a  species  of  aggressive  con- 
tempt. I  cannot  sympathise  with  them.  Ever^^  revealed  .sys- 
tem must  rest  for  its  foundation  upon  either  reason  or  faith. 
The  former  decides  upon  evidence,  scrutinised  by  the  light  of  a 
critical  intellect;  the  latter  seeks  its  "evidence  of  things  un- 
seen" only  in  the  heart.  How  many  of  us  have  intelligence, 
learning,  or  leisure  to  investigate  the  grounds  of  our  belief  in 
even  the  simplest  article  of  faith?  What  immense  erudition  is 
requisite  to  decide  whether  the  gospels  containing  a  narrative 
of  the  Saviour's  life  be  forgeries,  revelations  or  mere  histories  ? 
How  often  do  sects  split  upon  the  mere  literal  rendering  of  a 
Greek  sentence?  And  if  the  learned,  who  have  devoted  their 
whole  lives  to  this  alone,  be  so  feeble,  how  shall  we  expect 
strength  of  wisdom  from  the  mass  of  mankind,  who  have 
not  the  first  element  of  critical  science?  We  believe  in  the 
existence  of  a  Saviour,  and  denounce  as  infidels  and  horrible 
monsters  all  who  refuse  assent  to  our  faith.  And  wh}-  do  we 
thus  believe?  Because  we  have  been  told  so  in  our  youth  by 
persons  of  learning  and  probilv,  in  whom  we  have  confidence, 
and  whose  better  judgment  in  this  matter  we  substitute  for  our 
own.  The  Aragonese  believes  in  the  Madonna  del  Pilar  for 
identically  the  same  reasons.  The  Protestant  points  to  St. 
Bomenic,  Torquemada  and  Alexander  VI ;  the  Aragonese  to 
Calvin,  Luther  and  Henry  VIII.  The  only  satisfactory  argu- 
ments, after  all,  to  the  common  mind,  being  those  drawn  a  pos- 


78  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

teriori  from  the  effects  produced  by  each  religion.  And  oven 
here  the  danger  of  confusion  is  great,  by  mixing  up  mere 
church  polity  with  religion  itself,  for  the  temporal  power  of 
Spanisli  bishops  is  no  more  an  essential  part  of  the  Catholic 
religion,  than  that  of  the  English  bishops  is  of  the  Protestant. 
The  character  of  the  jjriests,  too,  varies  with  locality  and  sur- 
rounding influences.  Many  in  the  humbler  ranks  of  the  vSpanish 
clergy  are  unfit  for  their  place,  and  have  followed  the  profession 
for  a  living.  Can  more  be  said  for  the  English?  Read  Thack- 
eray and  Charlotte  Bronte,  and  if  they  fail  to  convince,  consult 
the  living  exemplars.  At  all  events,  the  higher  walks  of  the 
Spanish  dergj'  are  filled  witli  the  noblest  and  purest  of  men, 
and  no  one  of  them  in  our  day  has  enriched  his  family  with 
£100,00(1,  hoarded  from  a  salary  which  was  granted  to  him  for 
the  support  of  the  poor  and  necessitous.  Nor  does  morality 
seem  to  be  merely  a  question  of  religion.  The  lower  order  of 
Scotch  are  moral,  industrious  and  Protestant;  the  lower  order 
of  Irish  are  moral,  indolent  (in  li'cland)  and  Catholic;  the 
lower  order  of  English  are  immoral  in  the  last  degree,  imlustri- 
ous  and  Protestant.  The  Protestant  idea  is,  perhaps,  better 
fitted  for  the  affairs  of  this  world,  as  it  dwells  more  upon  the 
fulfilment  of  our  duties  towards  our  feUow-man.  In  a  word,  it 
is  a  line  support  for  those  who,  in  the  consciousness  of  strength, 
need  no  assistance.  But  for  the  l>roken  in  spirit,  for  those  who, 
disappointed  in  their  hopes,  and  cruslicd  beneath  an  unrelent- 
ing fate,  would  fain  turn  from  the  world  and  forget  its  jilea- 
sures  and  sorrows  alike,  I  fear  it  offers  little  consolation. 
Even  for  the  earth  we  need  something  more  than  morality, 
something  apart  from  and  higher  than  humanity  or  its  virtues, 
as  is,  proven  by  the  small  number  of  Protestant  cliurches  in 
which  the  Protestant  idea  is  carried  out  to  its  legitimate 
deductions.  It  is,  therefore,  the  height  of  an  absurd  vanity  for 
us,  with  upcast  eyes,  to  thaidc  the  Creator  for  not  having  made 
us  like  those  publicans.  Be  all  this  as  it  ma}',  I  feel  a  profound 
respect  for  sincere  devotion,  wherever  and  however  manifested. 
Not  only  so,  but  I  have  ever  considered  it  consistent  both  with 
courtesy  and  ]irinciple  to  honor  religious  ceremonies  even  when 
tliey  might  not  nu'et  with  my  ]>ersonal  approbation.  I  have 
knelt  before  the  Elevation  of  the  Host  and  bowed  my  head  on 
the  Pasco  at  the  solemn  peal  of  the  Angelus,  without  feeling 
myself  the  worse  therefor,  and  some  of  the  pleasantcst  recol- 


CASA    DE    LA    DIPUTACION. — OLD    ARAGONESE    LIBERTY.  79 

lections  of  my  life  are  these  Spanish  cathedrals,  where  the 
sombre  grandeur  of  the  architecture  and  the  devotion  of  the 
congregation  harmonized  in  elevating  me  above  the  mere 
materiality  of  existence. 

Between  the  cathedrals,  and  near  the  Seo,  are  the  remains 
of  the  Casa  de  la  Diputacion,  where  the  old  Parliament  held 
its  sittings.  The  Aragonese  are  justly  proud  of  the  liberty 
which  their  ancestors  enjoyed.  Of  coui-se,  it  was  not  a  demo- 
cratic liberty,  sucli  as  we  now  tliiiil':  indispensable,  for  in  the 
middle  ages  no  such  idea  was  recognized,  except,  perha])s,  in 
a  few  commercial  cities,  and  even  there  in  a  very  modified 
form.  But  in  Aragon,  Government  was. acknowledged  to  he  a 
contract,  which  required  obedience  from  .sovereign  and  subject 
alike — a  sort  of  Constitution,  Avhich  was  carefully  impressed 
upon  each  succeeding  monarch  by  the  formula  of  coronation, 
"  We,  Avho  as  good  as  3'ou,  and  together  more  than  you,  make 
you  our  King  and  Lord,  upon  condition  that  you  respect  our 
privileges  and  liberties;  and  if  not,  not."  Nor  could  the  sov- 
ereign enter  upon  the  exercise  of  his  powers,  until  mutual 
oaths  had  been  taken  in  Zaragoza,  Barcelona  and  Valencia. 
The  rights  of  the  subject  were  not  considered  franchises  ex- 
torted from  the  monarch's  hands  by  successful  rebellion,  but 
were  regarded  as  inalienable,  even  though  in  abeyance.  Not 
'content  with  this,  they  established  a  grand  Court,  composed  of 
the  Justicia,  who  held  by  life  tenure,  and  who  was  especially 
charged  with  the  preservation  of  the  constitutional  guarantees. 
He  could  draw  to  his  jurisdiction  all  complaints  of  illegality, 
even  against  the  king;  could  discharge,  by  a  species  of  habeas 
corpus^  all  persons  unjustly  confined,  and  protect  them  for  a 
day  afterwards.  He  was  thus  enabled  to  save  the  monarchy 
against  the  danger  of  popular  revolutions  by  restraining  its 
head  from  the  commission  of  those  acts  of  tyranny  which  gen- 
erally give  rise  to  such  commotions.  A  sort  of  Council  of 
Associates  was  nominated  by  the  king  out  of  a  list  presented 
by  the  Cortes  as  a  check  upon  his  power,  and  a  Committee  of 
four  Inquisitors  drawn  by  lot — one  from  each  branch  of  the 
Cortes — met  on  the  1st  of  April  and  sat  for  eight  days,  to  hear 
all  complaints  that  might  be  made  against  him  or  his  associates 
by  any  except  the  king.  If  presented  by  them,  he  was  tried 
by  seventeen  Judges,  taken  likewise  by  lot  from  the  whole 
Cortes,  and  i)unislu'd  at  discretion.     This  was  really  our  sy.s- 


80  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

tern  of  Government  in  its  essentials — a  fundamental  law,  above 
the  riovernment,  and  an  independent  .Tufliciary,  to  ])revent 
infractions  of  tliat  fundamental  law,  the  differcnec  being  that 
our  Constitution  embraces  and  protects  all;  their's,  as  a  gen- 
eral rule,  only  the  privileged  classes.  Aragon  and  the  United 
.States  are  the  onl}'  countries  in  the  world  that  have  ever  em- 
l)odifd  the  true  conception  of  a  free  Government,  viz  :  a  machine 
which  shall  jireserve  order  and  protect  the  nation,  while  guar- 
antying the  rights  of  the  minority  against  the  power  of  the 
mere  majority.  The  English,  to  this  day,  though  compara- 
tively a  IVee  peoj)le,  live,  so  far  as  their  Constitution  is  con- 
cerned, under  the  absolute  control  of  a  majorit}-.  One  vote  in 
the  House  of  Commons  (itself  representing  a  twentieth  of  the 
nation;  may  change  the  ministry,  fill  the  House  of  Lords  with 
its  creatures,  and  pass  any  laws,  however  pi*eposterous,  which 
the  Courts  have  frequently  declared  that  they  have  no  power 
to  arrest.  The  nineteenth  century  furnishes  exam[)les  of  the 
way  ill  which  this  may  be  accomplished.  The  House  of  Aus- 
tria found  the  Constitution  of  Aragon  very  inconvenient. 
I'hilip  II  swept  away  the  last  trace  of  its  liberties,  and  the 
French  battered  down  the  Parliament  House. 

Among  the  sights  of  Zaragoza  is  the  princely  mansion  of 
the  great  merchant,  Zaporta,  and  one  or  two  others  of  like  rep- 
utation. Their  glories  are  departed.  Half  the  columns  of  the* 
arcades  are  destroyed,  and  the  courts  lumbered  up  with  every 
unsuitable  thing.  Zaragoza  is  no  longer  the  c:ii)ital  of  a  great 
kingdom,  with  monarch  and  nobles  and  the  attendant  luxuries 
of  a  court;  Madrid  has  alis()rl)e(l  all  that  class  of  the  ]>opula- 
tion,  and,  until  revived  liy  the  railroads  now  in  progress,  she 
must  l>e  content  to  see  her  ancient  palaces  crumble.  I  confess, 
too.  that,  fresh  from  the  ])alaces  of  (Jenoa,  I  was  not  filled  with 
the  orthodox  degree  of  admiration  in  visiting  these. 

The  panorama  from  the  Torre  Nueva  is  fine.  Of  course,  you 
are  exi)ected  to  admire  the  clock,  and  to  read  the  numerous 
sentences  on  the  wall,  in  a  very  old  handwriting,  wai-ning  the 
visitor  to  jireparc  for  death:  not  altogether  inaj)|)ropriate,  as 
the  tower  leans  consideraldy  from  the  pei-pendicular.  On  every 
side  are  visible  the  ravages  of  the  French  artiller}-.  The 
facade  of  the  Sta.  Engracia  still  remains  upright,  a  lonely  wit- 
ness to  its  horrors,  the  monastery  and  the  body  of  the  church 
having  been  utterly  destroyed.     This  monastery  was  founded 


WALKS. ALJAFERIA.  81 

by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  and  was  famous  foi-  its  relies  and 
for  the  tombs  of  the  o-reat  historians,  Blaneas  and  Zui-ita,  who 
have  so  nobl^^  ])reserved  the  records  of  departed  libert}-.  The 
main  attack  of  the  French,  at  the  second  siege,  was  in  this 
quartei-,  and  the  breach  was  effected,  if  I  mistake  not,  by  a 
mine  under  this  very  church.  Many  of  the  half-ruined  and 
deserted  convents  ai-e  turned  into  i;-ranaries  and  sometimes 
stables.  Monks  and  nuns  have  been  swept  ixwiiy  by  the  pro- 
gress of  events,  and  throughout  Si)ain  their  habitations  are 
desolate.  The  C'asa  de  Misericordia,  for  the  agi'd  jxku-,  u  fine 
building,  and  a  most  ]M'aiseworthy  institution,  makes  a  grand 
show  from  this  tower.  The  view  extends  be3'ond  the  city  over 
the  valley,  for  a  long  distance  up  the  hills  on  cither  side.  The 
position  of  the  French  batteries  is  easily  recognized.  Modern 
im|)rovements  in  artillery  have  nOAV  rendered  such  a  defence  as 
tiiat  of  Zaragoza  more  difficult,  and  it  is  easy  for  us  to  see  how 
feeble  the  guns  of  that  day  must  have  been;  but  their  effect  is 
painfully  apparent  in  the  Faubourg,  beyond  the  Ebro,  which 
has  never  recovered  from  the  devastation. 

The  principal  and  only  fine  street  in  Zaragoza  is  El  Coso, 
which  cannot  rival  the  Calle  de  Alcala,  hut  the  walks  outside 
tlie  city  walls  may  challenge  comparison  witb  the  best.  An 
Alameda,  not  yet  finished,  and  which  will  be  very  handsome 
some  day,  leads  out  ot  the  gate  of  Sta.  Engracia,  by  the  statue 
of  Piginitelli,  lately  erected,  to  a  beautiful  avenue,  wliere  you 
may  stroll  the  hottest  da}"  with  jjleasure,  to  the  Casa  Blanca 
on  the  grand  canal- — a  shady  spot  dedicated  to  dancing  the 
jota,  and  other  Aragonese  amusements.  To  the  north-west, 
likewise,  M'ithout  the  walls,  is  one  of  the  few  remains  of  the 
Moorish  dominion  in  Aragon — the  Aljaforia — a  castle-palace  of 
the  Beni  llud,  who  do  not  appear  generally  to  have  emulated 
the  taste  of  their  Andalusian  rivals  for  the  fine  arts.  The 
Aljaferia  is  a  fine  old  pile,  and,  after  passing  through  the  hands 
of  the  Inquisition,  has  been  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  gar- 
rison, Avho,  though  by  profession  men  of  blood,  are  by  practice 
gentle  lambs,  compared  with  their  2)redeccssors.  It  was  here 
that  occurred  the  first  abortive  attempt  at  revolution  against 
the  Scrtorius  Government.  Its  gallant  leader  paid  the  penalty 
of  his  life,  but  his  memory  was  avenged  by  the  Vicalvarists. 
Mr.  Ford  mentions  the  Aljaferia  as  the  birth-])lace  of  Sta.  Isabel 

7 


S2  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SrAMARDS. 

of  Ilun;;ary.     I  think  he  is  iiiislaki'ii  ;  this  was  a  diflVroiit  per- 
son, and  died  in  Portugal,  of  whiclj  eomitry  she  was  queen. 

Anion^jj  my  casual  aecjuaintances  ut  Zaragoza  was  a  Freneh 
exile,  a  lawyer,  whom  I  met  at  the  tertulia  of  my  banker's 
wifr.  lit-  was  hcartil}'  tired  oi"  it  ;  complained  dreadfully  of 
the  hatred  which  the  inhahitants  bore  to  the  French  and  Eng- 
lish ;  that  they  called  his  countrymen  (/((hachos,  (a  word  whose 
precise  signitication  is  uncertain  ;)  that  he  kept  on  good  tei-ms 
with  ever}' one,  because  he  never  entered  into  an  argument; 
assassinations  were  frequent ;  the  women,  though  handsome, 
took  no  exercise  J  the  people  of  property  entertained  very  lit- 
tle ;  the  j)riests  were  all  Carlists  at  heart,  praying  a  restoration 
of  the  feudal  Government  and  the  Inquisition.  The  only 
thing  he  ])raised  was  the  climate,  and  he  had  lived  here  seven 
yi-ars  without  knowing  what  it  was  to  have  a  jiain  or  an  ache. 
All  this  must  be  taken  with  many  gi-aius  of  allowance,  and  1 
was  far  from  adopting  his  conclusions.  The  fate  of  an  exile  is 
a  hard  one,  and  few  can  bear  it  with  equanimity.  The  expres- 
sion of  his  countenance  was  sad,  indeed,  and  J  dould  not  that 
he  embraced  the  opjtortunity,  shortly  atterwards  afforded,  of 
returning  to  his  native  land.  Kext  me  at  the  table  d'hote  of 
the  hotel  sat  a  navy  oilicer  an<l  his  wii'c,  who  were  equall}^ 
decitletl  in  their  praises.  The  golden  mean  j^roliaM}'  lies 
between  the  two. 

Having  spent  as  much  time  as  was  desiralde  in  Zaragoza,  I 
took  my  scat  one  night,  at  eleven,  r.  yi.,  in  the  Ociiina  of  the 
diligence  lor  Madrid.  We  had  just  been  favored  with  a  mag- 
nificent tropical  storm,  '^fl.e  rain  had  descended  in  torrents, 
and  the  thunder  echoed  around  the  city  as  though  Ihe  last 
trump  had  sounded.  A  subdued  muttering  anu^ng  tlu'  iiills, 
and  piles  of  black  clouds,  seemed  to  threaten  a  renewal  of  its 
terroi-s,  though  the  air  had  become  so  cool  as  to  make  us  but- 
ton our  coats  and  raise  the  windows  of  the  coach.  P>ut  ])ublic 
conveyances  in  Spain  wait  for  neither  time  nor  tide.  The 
Spanish  diligence  is  doomed  shortl}'  to  go  the  way  of  all  flesh. 
For  a  progressive  li-uveller.  who  ••  docs  u]i  "  western  Euroj)e  in 
six  months,  (as  a  fellow-countr3-maii,  on  his  way  to  the  East, 
once  told  me  of  his  owii  exjdoits.)  the  railroad  is  a  great  con- 
venience j  but  such  as  wish  to  see  not  only  the  configuration  of 
the  country,  but  the  i)eople,  and  those  of  all  ranks,  will  regret 
.this  means  of  meeting  agreeable,  at  least  interesting,  company, 


SPANISH    DILIGENCE. — ENDURANCE    OF    roSTILIONS.  83 

and  sometimes  of  making  lastiiiji;  acquaintances,  which  seldom 
happens  in  a  railroad  train.  The  machine,  itself,  is  constructed 
upon  the  same  plan  as  the  French,  but  more  commodious.  The 
first  copartmcnt,  the  berlina,  next  the  team,  has  places  for 
three,  with  windows  in  front  and  on  the  side,  giving  a  view  of 
the  wliole  country.  Next  comes  the  interior,  for  six,  sitting  face 
to  ftice  ;  and  last  of  all,  the  roionda,  the  inmates  of  which  can 
scarcely  be  recognized  after  a  dusty  ride.  On  the  top  is  the 
coupe.  This  vehicle,  cumbrous  as  it  seems,  must  not  be  con- 
founded in  its  rate  of  speed  with  the  German  lucxis-a-non-lucendo , 
Eilwagens  and  Sclinellposts.  The  rapidity  with  Avhich  they 
are  whirled  along  is  startling;  for  the  Spaniards  are  Jehus  in 
their  driving,  and  a  ]ierson  ignorant  of  the  seven-fold  hide  that 
covers  a  Spanish  mule's  body,  wouhl  think  it  high  time  for  tlie 
anti-cruelty-to-animal  society  to  interfere,  but  one  cut  with  the 
lash  inflicts  more  pain  u]>on  one  of  our  thin-skinned  beasts 
than  half  an  hour's  beating  u])on  them.  The  geiieral  director 
is  styled  the  mayoral,  an  appellation  common  to  most  su])erin-. 
tcndents  in  Spain.  Second  in  command  under  him  is  the  zagal, 
who  is  changed  at  every  relay,  and  sits  in  his  seat  on  top,  or 
anywhere  else  he  can.  Jlis  principal  occupation  oi-  amusement 
is,  to  descend  at  unexpected  moments,  and,  running  around  the 
team,  to  administer  a  sound  beating  with  rigid  impartiality. 
Sometimes  he  fills  his  pockets  with  pebbles,  and,  with  unerring 
accuracy  of  aim,  communicates  his  wishes  to  the  various  ani- 
mals. His  legs  are  of  the  most  approved  pattern  and  unques- 
tioned excellence.  The  last  functionary  is  the  postilion,  the 
delantero,  who  generally  rides  the  whole  way  through,  if  not 
more  than  forty  hours,  or  so,  though  against  the  regulationw. 
Nothing  has  aroused  my  admiration  more  than  the  endurance 
displayed  by  these  boys.  They  seem  absolutely  made  of  steel, 
and  freed  from  the  necessity  of  sleep.  Formerly,  no  diligence 
was  considered  complete  without  an  escopetero,  armed  with  a 
formidable-^o/im^/  carbine;  but  the  improvement  of  the  (juardia 
civil,  or  country  police,  has  rendered  such  a  precaution  unne- 
cessary, though  he  is  still,  occasionally,  retained,  from  artistic 
considerations.  The  team  consists  of  seven,  or  more,  mules, 
and  one  postilion  horse.  The  leinale  muK's  are  gallantly  jiro- 
vidcd  with  names,  ('apitana,  (ienerala,  Xegra,  which  thev 
recognize  perfectly;  the  males  generally  receive  the  generic 
designation  of  viaeho.     One  or  another  of   these  words  is  etcr- 


S4  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SI'ANIAUDS. 

nally  in  the  mouth  of  tho  zaii:al,  and  a  free  passenger  is 
expected  t<i  work  his  passage  In"  aiding  in  the  vociferation. 
One  such,  the  next  day,  seated  just  in  front  of  berlifia,  con- 
tinued, for  three  hours,  without  intermission,  to  cry  out,  andd  ! 
Jtuhi .'  andd!  andd  I  dnda  .'  dnda!  dnda  !  dnda!  until  we  were 
driven  to  desperation. 

Our  ])ostilion  was  named  ^lanuelito,  a  well-made,  litlie,  little 
fellow,  of  altout  fifteen,  lie  wore  a  pair  of  blue  pants,  a  gaily 
ornamented  velveteen  jacket,  with  a  segar  case  stuck  into  one 
pocket,  and  a  yellow  handkerchief  fluttering  from  the  other. 
Around  his  waist  was  wound  a  bright  red  sash.  The  trumpet 
swung  over  his  left  shoulder,  and  one  of  his  fingers  boasted  a 
silver  ring.  A  leopard-skin  cap,  jauntily  worn  on  one  side, 
completed  his  costume.  Manuelito  was  evidently  proud  of  his 
post.  As  the  weather  looked  threalcning,  he  donned  his  little 
<'.loak,  mounted,  and,  amid  frantic  yells,  w^e  flew  through  the 
gate,  over  the  fortress  ditch,  and  commenced  our  journey. 

There  was  nothing  to  see,  and  no  light  to  see  it  with,  so  1 
composed  myself  to  sleep,  and  slept  soundly  imtil  the  vehicle 
suddenly  stopj^ed,  and  it  seemed  as  if  Babel  had  l)een  destroyed 
again.  We  were  descending  a  mountain  side,  a  precij)icc  on 
our  left,  the  diligence  slewed  nearly  at  right-angles  across  the 
road,  and  the  nine  mules  kicking  for  life.  The  three  extra 
passengers,  friends  of  the  mayoral,  were  ihirting  off  from  the 
ledge  in  front  of  the  heiilna,  like  frightened  birds.  But  far,  far 
above  all  rose  the  multitudinous  sound  of  oaths,  every  man 
swearing  ior  three  and  crying  out  ^^  Para  el  coche!  que  va  a. 
tnatarse  el  macho!"'  The  tongue  had  broken,  and  as  the  for- 
wartl  animals  are  attached,  not  to  the  tongue,  but  to  the  body 
of  the  vehicle  itself,  it  had  continued  to  proceed,  the  broken 
(uid  lacerating  the  side  of  one  of  the  wheelers  considerably 
before  the  motion  could  be  arrested.  With  some  difficulty  the 
animals  wei'c  unhitched.  Then,  again,  rose  the  sound  of  many 
voices:  who  had  first  perceived  the  trouble;  Avho  had  not;  who 
first  cried  out;  the  mule  was  mucli  hurt;,  the  mule  was  not 
much  hurt,  i.*i:c.,  &c.  Then  every  one  took  out  his  tobacco 
pouch  and  coolly  made  a  cigarette.  I  began  to  think  we  were 
in  for  the  night,  but  after  ten  minutes  the  cigarettes  were 
smoked  out,  and  the  mayoral  commenced  mending  the  tongue 
in  a  really  workmanlike  manner,  so  that  it  lasted  till  we 
reached  Madrid.     When  I  next  awoke  it  was  daylight,  and  we 


ALMUNIA. — CALATAYUD.  85 

were  threading  the  mountain  country  that  leads  into  the  prov 
ince  of  Ahiuinia.  The  bk^xk  slopes  were  covered  with  flocks 
of  sheep  and  herds  of  donke^^s,  who  gleaned  a  meagre  support 
under  the  charge  of  dogs  and  wild-looking  men,  clothed  in 
sheep-skins.  One  little  girl,  tending  a  single  sheep,  had  quiti' 
a  romantic  appearance  in  this  savage  wilderness.  Descending 
out  of  the  gorge,  Ave  entered  the  valle3-  which  leads  to  the  town 
of  Almunia,  with  its  loop-iioled  wall  and  ditch,  suited  to  the 
warfare  of  the  olden  time. 

While  we  were  waiting  for  chocolate,  I  took  a  stroll  down 
the  long  straight  street  that  runs  through  the  centre,  saw  nolii- 
ing  remarkable  except  some  fine  shoats,  and  was  quite  willing 
to  proceed  on  the  journey.  The  fertile  vega  of  Almunia,  with 
its  vines,  and  olives,  and  fruit  trees,  is  very  pleasant  to  the 
sight  after  so  much  aridity,  but  the  scenery  soon,  rehipsed  into 
its  former  condition,  and  the  road  continued  to  ascend  and 
descend  the  liills  until  we  entered  the  enchanting  vega  ol 
Calatayud,  b}'  whose  walls  flow  the  Jalon  and  the  Giloca.  Here 
sun  and  water  have  done  their  utmost,  and  have  produced  a 
fertility  without  bounds.  The  temperate  and  south  ten)])erate 
zones  unite  in  emptying  the  horn  of  plenty  into  its  lap. 
Among  other  productions  it  is  famous  for  its  hemp,  which  is 
considered  much  superior  to  tliat  of  Northern  climates,  and  is 
preferred  in  Spanisii  dock  Awards.  Calatayud,  as  its  nainf 
(Kalat  Ayub,  the  Castle  of  Job)  indicates,  was  founded  by  the 
Moors.  The  materials  were  taken  from  the  ruins  of  the  Konian 
city  Bilbilis,  renowned  as  the  birth-place  of  Martial,  who,  after 
leading  the  life  of  a  brilliant  rake  in  Rome,  returned  to  pass 
the  remainder  of  his  days  in  contented  seclusion  at  home. 
Bilbilis  is  another  of  the  many  ancient  and  important  cities  in 
Spain  which  have  utterly  disappeared.  The  diligence  stopped 
at  a  posada  without  the  walls,  fronting  the  promenade  which 
skirts  the  river.  I  embraced  the  opportunity  aftorded  b}-  the 
delay  of  breakfast,  to  stroll  through  the  jirincipnl  street,  as  it 
was  probably  the  only  occasion  I  should  ever  have.  The  out- 
side of  things  was  prepossessing;  streets  scrujtulously  neat, 
and  a  general  air  of  well-being  characterizing  the  population. 
Churches  are  numerous,  to  judge  b}'  the  spires.  I  entered  one, 
that  of  the  Holy  8ei)ulchre,  which  was  quite  handsome  and  in 
ffood  taste,  (-alatayud  is  the  second  citv  in  the  old  iirovincc 
of  Aragon,  and   is   said   to  be  the  seat  of  much    wealth.     The 


86  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SI'ANIARt>S. 

situation  and  the  fertility  of  the  surrouiuliriii;  country  yield  to 
none  in  the  north  of  Spain,  and  the  climate  is  pleasant,  except 
when  the  north-west  wind  blows  over  the  Sierra  of  Moncayo, 
which  elicits  i)itter  e<nnplaints  on  the  part  of  the  natives.  In 
ancient  times  its  waters  weiv  supposed  to  possess  the  same 
virtue  in  temperini^  steel,  wliicli  has  since  rendered  Toledo  so 
famous.  I  am  not  aware,  however,  of  any  manufactory  at 
present  existing.  Calatayud  has  a  unique  peculiarity  in  Spain 
that  no  adjective  has  been  formed  to  designate  its  inhabitants. 
Those  of  Madrid  are  styled  mddrilcnos,  of  Malaga,  malagucnos, 
of  Cadiz,  (jaditnhos,  but  some  years  ago  a  member  of  the  Cortes 
having  occasion  to  speak  of  tlu'  iiili;il)itaiits  of  Calatayutl,  found 
himself  at  a  loss.  Calatayudcnos  was  too  harsh,  so  the  extinct 
IJiibilis  furnished  the  classical  epithet  of  Bilbilitano,  or  some 
such  woi-d.     At  least  I  was  so  told. 

A  delightful  breeze  blcAv  down  the  valley  as  Ave  lost  sight  of 
Calatayud  and  continued  our  journey  toward  the  mountain 
chains,  separating  Aragon  from  the  plains  of  New  Castile. 
Ateca  offered  its  modest  beauties.  On  the  left,  beyond  the 
valley,  were  several  fine  ruins  and  one  massive  monastery  or 
convent  of  apparently  ancient  <lato.  My  two  companions  in 
the  berlina  were  returning  from  the  baths  of  Panticosa,  in  the 
Pyrenees,  a  celebrated  resort,  though  somewhat  difficult  of 
access.  One  was  a  Madrileno,  the  other  an  Estremeno,  (Esti'c- 
mcduran,)  both  gentlemen,  and  agreeable  people.  They  had 
taken  me  for  a  soldier,  but  our  intercourse  was  peaceful,  and, 
to  me,  instructive,  as  the  society  of  intelligent  Spaniards  gen- 
erally is,  because  they  preserve  the  freshness  of  their  thoughts, 
and  have  some  opinions  beyond  those  contained  in  the  news- 
papers. Of  incidents  the  journey'  was  barren,  except  a  famous 
stall  in  the  team.  The  side  of  the  road  bad  been  covered  with 
stones,  lately  placcil  there  foi-  the  pur]iose  of  inaeadamising. 
Manuelito  conceived  the  idea  ol'  passing  a  string  of  wagons 
In'  galloping  over  these  stones,  but  tlio  ascent  was  steep  and 
wo  stuck  hopelessly  fast,  without  being  able  to  return  to  the 
beaten  track.  The  animals  wei-e  beaten  singly  and  collectively 
until  I  felt  called  ow  to  protest  against  such  cruelty,  and  re- 
membering my  boyish  experience,  when  passengers  were 
expected  to  carry  rails  to  make  corduroy  for  the  stage  coach, 
proposed  that  we  should  (lismounl  and  put  our  shoulders  to  the 
wheel,  as  that  appeared  to  be  tlie  only  chance.    This  seemingly 


ASCENT  IN   CASTILK. TlIK  PEAUL  OF  ALCOLKA   DKL  PlNAll.  87 

novel  expedient  was  adoj^ted.  Tlie  stones  were  scra])ed  away 
in  front  of  the  wheels;  we  took  our  position  l)eliind.  At  the 
given  signal  a  general  yell  was  raised.  The  zagal  whipped  tlio 
inules  in  front :  we  pushed  in  the  rear,  until  our  etforts  were 
crowned  with  success,  but  Manuelito,  who  used  to  look  around 
so  smilingly,  was  now  quite  erest-thlleii  and  did  not  recover  his 
spirits  during  the  whole  stage. 

As  evening  approached,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
mountain  range  which  bounds  the  great  central  plateau  of 
Spain.  The  road  followed  a  bounding  stream,  that  leaped  from 
ledge  to  ledge  of  rock,  and  covered  the  vallc}^  with  herbage  of 
softest  texture,  receiving  frequent  rills,  that  coursed  down  the 
mountain  side.  Venerable  nogales  and  other  deciduous  trees, 
extended  their  foliage  over  us.  The  scene  was  diversified  by 
scattering  farm-houses  and  occasional  castle  ruins  which  de- 
monstrated the  importance  of  the  pass  in  the  wars  before  the 
union  of  the  two  Crowns.  Kalf  way  up  was  a  noble  monas- 
tery, grandl}^  situate  upon  an  immense  mass  of  rock.  As  night 
closed  in,  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  where  \\q  took 
our  mounted  guard,  and  proceeded  along  the  table-land  called 
Llanura  de  las  Scrranias,  which  separates  the  province  of  Soria 
from  that  of  Guadalajara,  and  i-  almost  above  the  limit  of  cul- 
tivation. About  ten  o'clock,  a  halt  was  called  for  supper  at 
Alcolea  del  Pinar,  which  lies  upon  the  brow  of  the.  ridge,  where 
it  begins  to  sink  to  the  south-west. 

It  was  a  short  meal  with  me,  and  I  descended  from  the 
Posada  to  enjo}'  the  bracing  atmosphere.  The  little  town  is 
on  one  of  the  most  elevated  situations  in  the  peninsula,  and 
exposed  to  the  winds  which  swept  over  the  plains  of  New  Cas- 
tile, and  whistled  gently  around  the  streets.  The  temperature 
was  delicious — elasticity  itself — with  the  freshness  of  our  No- 
vember, just  cool  enough  to  render  desirable  a  light  cloak 
thrown  over  the  shoulders.  All  around  was  bathed  in  the  mel 
low  light  of  the  moon.  On  a])i»roa(hing  the  diligence,  I  beheld 
one  of  those  visions  which  oftentimes  make  the  stranger  in 
Spain  regret  that  h*e  was  born.  It  was  a  young  lady,  cast  in 
the  fairest  mould  of  her  sex  ;  a  transparent,  rich,  blonde  com- 
plexion (not  the  ])each  and  ap])le  of  Northern  climes),  exquis- 
itely chiselled  mouth  and  chin,  mild  but  expressive  blue  03-08, 
glos.sy  raven  locks,  and  a  grace  of  person  betrayed  in  ever}- 
attitude — truly  an  apple  of  gold  in  a  net-work  of  silver.     She 


88  SP.XIN    AM>    TIIK    SPANIARDil. 

8ecmod  an  Ionic  oolninn.  (Irapi'd  for  an  artist's  pencil.  I  em- 
liracc«l  tlie  first  opportunity  of  olforin!^  some  courtesy,  and  of 
evincing  a  respectful  admiration.  Her  voice  was  a  fit  accom- 
paniment to  the  expression  of  such  beaut}'.  She  had  only  come 
to  see  a  friend  olT.  and  as  the  signal  for  dejjarture  sounded,  I 
entered  the  diligence,  sorrowful  to  think  that  this  brilliant, 
])ure  as  the  Itreeze  that  floated  b}*,  would  probably  be  thrown 
b}'  fate  to  some  creature  incapable  of  appreciating  its  excel- 
lence. Her  name  is  unknown  to  mo,  as  her  friends  dismounted 
during  the  nigiit,  and  I  had  no  informant  save  my  dreams,  yet 
I  am  sure  it  was  Inez. 

I  awoke  as  the  first  streak  of  dawn  l)egau  to  pur])le  the  East. 
Ahead  and  behind,  and  on  both  hands,  extended  the  plains  of 
Castile,  covered  with  tlie  stul)l»le  of  tlie  wheat — the  best  in 
Kurope,  which  had  just  been  harvested.  Donkeys  and  slieep 
were  gleaning  the  remains.  AVc  reached  Torrijo,  with  its  an- 
cient walls  and  towers,  and  fine  old  ruined  castle  commanding 
the  valley,  down  which  avc  whirled  along  the  bank  of  the  river, 
enveloped  in  a  choking  dust,  apparently  six  inches  deep.  The 
Aragonese  costume  had  disappeared;  tlie  hat  and  sombre  brown 
cloak  of  jxtfio  jxirdo  of  Castile  were  now  universal.  In  the 
due  course  of  events,  we  arrived  at  the  City  of  Guadalajara 
(Wady  al  Ilajar — the  lliver  of  liocks),  where  we  had  to  wait 
some  time  for  the  departure  of  the  train,  wliich  1  spent  in 
reviving  my  recollection  ol'  the  place.  In  the  niidtUo  ages,  it 
was  renowned  tor  the  deeds  of  the  Cid  and  his  family,  and  was 
one  of  the  outposts  of  Christendom  against  the  kingdoms  of 
Valencia  and  Murcia.  It  was  subsequently  made  the  residence 
of  the  great  family  of  the  ^Mendozas,  one  of  the  noblest  names 
in  JMirope.  fulfilling  for  centuries  every  requisite  of  nobility. 
Like  most  other  of  its  compeers,  its  origin  is  lost  in  the  l>and  of 
sturdy  warriors  who.  in  the  eighth  century,  rallied  around  Pe- 
laijo  and  his  successors  in  the  mountain  fastnesses  of  x\.sturia. 
In  the  lifleeiilh  century,  the  Manpiisate  of  Santillana,  the 
second  created  in  Spain,  was  conferred  upon  Don  Inigo  Lopez 
de  M<'nd()za,  so  famous  for  his  statesmanslfip  and  his  literary 
acc<»mplishments.     Jlis  little  ballad,  commencing 

Moza  tan  fermosa, 
Noll  vi  en  la  IVoiitera, 

continues  to  l>e  atlmircd  in  our  day.     Of  his  sons,  the  elder, 


tup:  mendozas.  89 

Don  Diego  Hurtado,  was  created  Duke  del  Infantado.  The 
territory  composed  of  the  cities  of  Alcocer,  Salmeron,  Valde 
Olivas,  and  others  depending  upon  them,  was  called  the  Infan- 
tazgo  or  Infantado,  because  it  had  been  possessed  by  various 
Infantas.  Henry  tlie  IV  bestowed  it  upon  Don  Diego  Hur- 
tado, and,  in  1475,  it  was  erected  into  a  Dutchy  in  reward  of 
his  services.  Proud  of  the  literary  reputation  of  liis  father, 
tlie  great  Martinis,  he  had  entaiU^d  the  library,  and  directed 
that  it  should  be  preserved  in  the  palace  at  Cluadalajara. 
AVhether  it  has  escaped  the  ravages  of  war,  I  do  not  know. 
The  younger  son  was  made  Count  of  Tendilla,  who  was  suc- 
ceeded in  his  honors  and  titles  by  Tnigo  Lopez,  second  Count 
of  Tendilla,  and  first  Marquis  of  Mondejar,  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  of  the  Generals  who  aided  in  the  conquest  of  Gran- 
ada. He  was  the  father  of  five  sons,  all  of  them  attaining 
great  distinction  in  their  several  occupations,  particularly  Don 
Diego  Hurtado,  the  authoi-  of  thv-  classic  Guerra  de  Granada, 
who,  in  war,  statesmanship  and  literature,  worthily  sustained 
the  reputation  of  his  fiimily.  The  famous  Cardinal  Mendoza, 
Avho  raised  the  standard  of  the  cross  upon  the  Torre  de  la 
V'ela,  in  the  Alhanihra,  and  was  styled  the  third  King  of  Spain, 
is  familiarly  known  to  all  Americans.  One  of  the  last  of  the 
race  unhesitatingly  placed  his  immense  fortune  at  risk  in  the 
War  of  Independence  against  the  French,  who,  in  revenge, 
sacked  the  palace  at  (iuadalajara.  and  even  desecrated  the 
tombs  of  his  ancestors,  while  ]Sapoleon  excepted  him  from  the 
general  amnesty.  This  is  an  aristocracy  indeed.  Within  the 
few  past  years  the  title  has  liecome  e.xtinct,  or  rather  has  lost 
its  separate  existence,  by  merging  in  the  ducal  iamily  of 
Ossuna. 

The  Mendoza  palace  is  still  the  great  attraction  of  Guadala- 
jara, though  sadly  fallen  from  its  historic  grandeur.  Its  size  is 
immense,  and  its  first  court  magnificent.  Some  of  the  vast 
suites  of  rooms  3'et  retain  remnants  of  former  l)eauty,and  here 
and  there  is  a  rust}'  relic  of  ancient  days  The  church  of  the 
Franciscans  is  more  interesting,  for  here  arc  the  tombs  of 
those  proud  Avarriors  and  statesmen  whose  fame  once  filled  the 
earth.  Bcsi<le8  this,  there  is  little  of  interest  at  Gua<lalajara, 
though  the  town  i.;  clean,  and  comparatively  well  Imilt,  and  it 
is  the  seat  of  the  excellent  engineer  school  of  the  army. 

At  length  the  diligence  was  placed  on  a  car,  and  we  started. 


90  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

Manuelito  oollcoted  his  pcsrta,  from  the  company,  which  I  paid 
willingly.  With  the  exception  of  one  stage,  wiien  tlie  leader 
was  a  little  unwell,  he  h;i<l  lieeu  in  the  saddle  for  thirty-one 
hours,  and  had  made  a  distance  of  forty-five  lea<:jues,  all  the 
time  at  a  hard  trot  or  i^allop.  Instead  of  going  to  sleep,  as  I 
should  have  done,  he  made  up  a  scgar  which  I  gave  him,  into  a 
dozen  cigarettes,  and  commenced  enjoying  himself.  The  coun- 
try to  >ra«lrid  was,  as  usual  in  the  Castiles,  a  table-land  or 
mountain  plain.  Innumerable  threshing-floors  were  in  opera- 
tion. Machines  of  the  rudest  description,  such  as  described  in 
the  Old  Testament.  As  the  summer  is  generalh'  a  continuance 
of  fair  weather,  the  sheaves  are  not  housed,  but  placed  on  a 
level  spot — the  era — and  threshed  by  means  of  a  sort  of  sled — 
a  trillo — driven  over  them,  the  trillador  standing  upon  the  trillo. 
In  winnowing,  instead  of  using  fans,  the  operatives  throw  the 
grain  with  shovels  to  windward,  which  causes  the  chaff  to  be 
blown  back  upon  themselves,  so  that  I  wonder  there  should  be 
any  eves  left  in  Castile  after  the  harvest.  The  ancient  city  of 
Alcalii  de  Ilenares,  so  renowned  for  the  University  of  Cardinal 
Ximenes,  since  removed  to  .Madrid,  and  for  the  C()in])lutensian 
Bible,  looked  as  it  did  formerl}'.  One  of  the  villaa:es  on  the 
road  has  attained  a  celebrit}''  since  my  first  visit — Vicalvaro, 
the  scene  of  the  battle  between  the  troops  of  the  Sartorius 
Government  and  O'Donnel  and  Dulce — who  have  consequently 
been  called  the  Vicalvarists,  or,  as  they  call  themselves,  the 
"  heroes  of  Vicalvaro."  Winding  around  the  observator}-  hill, 
we  entered  the  station  of  Madi-id,  and,  hitching  on  five  grays, 
drove  up  the  Prado  and  down  the  magnificent  street  of  Alcahi 
to  the  hotel. 


Chapter  VI. 
M  A  D  R  T  T)  . 

Lodgings— Domestic  Life— Situation  and  Climate— Office  Seeking— Puerta  del  Sol— 
The  Subject  of  Talk— Its  Attractions— Gallegos—Manolas— Society— Opera  and 
Theatre— The  Madrilenos— Christmas— La  Nochc  Buena— Habits  of  Life— The 
Prado— El  Dos  de  Mayo— Palace— The  Mauzauares— Academy  of  San  Fernando 
— The  Museo — The  Armeria— Street  Scenes. 

As  m}-  sta,y  in  Madrid  depended  upon  circumstances  beyond 
my  control,  I  went  ini mediately  into  lodgings,  where  I  found 
myself  very  comfortable.     My  hostess  being  an  Andaluza  from 
Seville,  was,  of  course,  graceful  and  talkative,  and  retained  con- 
siderable traces  of  a  blonde  beauty,  that  must  have  increased 
her  attractions  -a  great  many  years  ago.     The  rooms  were  as 
elegant,  in  a  dit^erent  style,  as  could  have  been  furnished  in 
Paris.     The  parlor  to  the  front  was  provided  with  two  balcon- 
ied windows,  which   afforded  a  view  of  "over  the  way,"  and 
also  up  and  down   the    well-thronged    street.      The    sleeping 
apartment  was  of  modest  dimensions,  but  sufficiently  large,  and 
provided'  with    mirrors  and   tables   of  modern    make;  a   fine 
Valencia  matting,  made  of  the  esparto,  which   grows  in   that 
province,  covered  the  floor.     In  ftict,  I  was  somewhat  surprised 
at  the  progress  which  had  been  made  since  my  last  visit,  for 
lodgers  then   had   to  content  themselves  with  pieces  of  furni- 
ture,  that   in   aspect   and  position   resembled  a   broken   down 
quadrille.      Everything   was   scrupulously    neat.      Of  the  two 
female  domestics,  one  was  a  Valencian,  the  other  a  Castillian, 
and  each  duly  impressed  with  the  superior  merits  of  her  pro- 
vince.    During   mv  sojourn,   they   took   frequent    occasions  of 
discoursing  to^ne  \r>on  the  subject,  all  of  which  I  heard  with 
interest  and  a  certain  profit.     Nothing  gratifies  any  .Spaniard 
more  than  a  patient  listener  to  such  dissertations.     The  hos- 
tess was  particularly  glowing  in  her  eulogies  upon  Seville,  fair 


02  SPAIN    AM>    THK    SPAMARnS. 

Seville,  and  insisted  on  my  layiiii;  the  batlielor  crown  of  mar- 
tyrdom at  the  feet  of  some  Andaluza.  In  the  spirit  of  contra- 
diction, I  su^ge8t<>d  a  Valenciana.  She  scouted  the  idea, 
protesting  tliat  las  Valmcianfrs  son  muy  guapus.  pero  ;io  t'wncn 
gracia !  no  tienin  qmcm!  Whereas,  tlie  Anchihisians  united 
beauty,  grace,  wit  and  sinc-n-ity.  In  my  inmost  luart  I  coukl 
not  gainsay  its  truth.  The  only  other  ()ccii])ant  was  a  young 
hiwyer  from  VaKncia,  of  an  exceedingly  mercurial  tentpera- 
mmt.  At  times  ver}-  lively  and  entertaining;  then  again  don- 
ning a  face  for  a  grievance  In  these  latter  moods  he  supjdied 
me  witli  enough  scandal  and  complaints  to  have  kept  the  whole 
profession  occupied  for  a  month. 

Tlie  plan  of  living  in  Madrid  is  almost  exclusively  that  of 
floors,  very  few  families  occupying  an  entire  house.  To  this 
there  are  naturally-  some  objections,  the  principal  of  which  is 
that  the  occupants  h.ave  no  settled  home;  but  as  none  exce])t 
tlie  wealthiest  can  afibrd  to  purchase  a  large  mansion,  and  of 
such  is  the  city  at  present  comi)osed,  the  great  majority  are 
compelled  to  choose  between  this,  which  at  all  events  secures 
the  ]>rivacy  of  a  portion,  or  the  aliominable  system  <il"  hotel 
boarding,  so  prevalent  in  certain  })arts  of  America,  and  which 
is,  perhajis.  the  most  ruinous  plan  ever  contrived  for  break- 
ing down  the  sentiment  of  iamily — thai  cm-ner-stone  of  a 
rei)ublic.  For  single  gentlemen  there  are  boarding  houses, 
(casa  de  huespedes,}  which  are  agreeable  to  strangers  without 
acquaintance,  as  they  frequently  contain  wvy  pleasant  cora- 
]iany,  and  are  good  schools  for  learning  the  language.  Some 
(»f  the  nobility  have  enormous  jialaccs,  far  more  remarkable  for 
theii-  size  than  elegance.  Tlu'  I'l'sidcucf  of  the  banker — Sala- 
manca, beyond  the  Pi'arlo,  fornni'ly  iielonging  to  the  Queen 
mothei",  is  a  l'(:mtiliil  building.  But  the  proprietors  of  ordi- 
nary wealth  fre(piejitly  content  themselves  with  the  first  floor, 
leasing  the  others  out  in  the  usual  manner.  The  house  may 
thus  be  filled  with  all  classes  of  society.  On  the  ground  floor 
will  be  a  shop;  in  the  entre-audo  a  family,  or  )»erhaps  a  barber 
or  a  modista;  on  the  first  floor  the  j>ro])i'ii'tor,  and  so  on  gradu- 
ally descending  in  woridl_\-  means,  though  not  necessarily  in 
resjiectability,  until  the  exi)lorer  attains  the  poets  and  painters 
in  the  attic.  As  most  Spaniards  have  very  little  ambition  to 
nniki-  a  display  in  society,  thcii-  haliilalions  are  sufficient!}' 
large,  and  they  wouhl  have  good  reason  to  rejoice  witli  Soci'atcs 


SITUATION    AND    CLIMATE.  93 

if  they  could  fill  even  tlie  sinallost    closet  iu  Madrid  with  true 
friends. 

However  much  a  travellei-  may  read,  he  still,  iu  spite  of  hiui- 
self,  expects  to  find  Madrid  embowered  in  orange  groves  and 
harmonious  with  the  soui)-  of  niy-htingales.  Such  is  far  from 
being  the  realit3^  It  has  always  been  a  puzzle  to  antiquaries 
to  conjecture  what  possible  reason  could  have  induced  the 
Spanish  sovereigns  to  select  Madrid  as  the  site  of  their  capitoh 
Except  its  lofty  elevation  above  the  Manzanarcs  and  its  central 
position,  it  possesses  not  a  single  recommendation.  They  de- 
sei'ted  the  ancient  cities  which  had  occupied  that  pre-eminence 
— Seville.  Cordova,  Toledo,  ^'alladoli(l,  Burgos,  Lisbon,  for  a 
miserable  village,  devoid  alike  of  external  beauty  and  historical 
reminiscences.  It  has  grown  to  be  a  grand  and  magnificent 
city,  but  at  a  fearful  cost  both  of  money  and  life.  The  country 
for  miles  around  is  little  better  than  a  desert,  producing  scarce- 
ly any  of  the  comforts  which  its  society  demands.  Not  a  tree 
or  shrul)  enlivens  its  dreaiy  plains,  and  even  wood,  (a  few  olive 
roots,}  in  a  place  where  winter  rages  with  unwonted  severity, 
has  to  be  transported  from  the  truadari-ania.  At  its  great 
elevation  of  twenty-five  hundred  feet,  the  summer's  heat  is 
intense,  and  iu  winter,  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  Guadar- 
rama,  I  have  known  the  sentinels  to  freeze  in  their  boxes  at 
the  Palace.  Individuall}',  I  have  no  fault  to  find  Avith  the 
climate.  The  air  is  exceedingly  dry,  and  I  found  both  beat 
and  cold  invigorating.  But  the  almost  universal  opinion  is  that 
there  is  no  more  detestable  climate  in  the  world,  and  the  majo- 
rity is  probably  right.  In  the  summer,  the  thermometer  was 
generally  quoted  at  two,  p.  m.,  as  varying  in  cool  spots  from 
twetity-eight  to  thirty  degrees  Reaumur,  and  at  daylight  from 
fifteen  to  seventeen,  and  about  ninety-five  to  one  hundred,  and 
sixty  to  sixty-five  of  Fahrenheit,  so  great  is  the  radiation  from 
this  bare  hill  during  the  night.  Crossing  the  Prado  at  noon  to 
the  j\luseo,  does  give  one  a  premonitory  idea  of  the  lower  re- 
gions, for  the  glare  is  so  intense,  that  you  scarcely  dare  open 
your  eyes.  In  the  winter,  the  temperature  depends  entirely 
upon  the  locality.  On  the  sunny  side  of  tbe  street  it  is  quite 
pleasant;  cross  to  the  shade,  and  you  are  transported  to  Ice- 
land. Notwithstanding  the  bitter  cold,  certain  semi-tropical 
plants  survive,  owing,  1  suppose,  to  the  excessive  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere,  which  renders  a  frost  very  rare,  simply  benumbing 


04  SPAIN    ANI>    TlIK    SPAMAUnS. 

tlK-in  without  inflicting  furllicr  injury.  In  addition  to  the  mere 
discomforts  of  the  climate,  tlierc  is  the  little  mountain  hreeze, 
which  steals  gently  over  the  plain,  freighted  with  death,  and  as 
they  repeat, 

Mata  ii  un  hninbrc, 
Y  nil  npii^a  iinii  Iu7.. 

The  principal  effect  of  an  incautious  exposure  to  this  air  is 
ihv  puhnonia,  which  attacks  man  and  beast  alike,  and  is  as  sud- 
den and  violent  in  its  course  as  yellow  fever.  It  is  the  great 
terror  of  the  Madrileilos,  and,  probabl}-,  a  third  of  the  deaths 
among  the  robust  part  of  the  population  during  the  winter 
can  be  traced  to  this  source.  The  best  evidence  of  the  un  fa- 
vorable climate  is  to  be  found  in  the  appearance  of  the  families 
that  have  resided  there  continuously  two  or  three  generations. 
Very  few  exist  after  a  hundred  years,  and  the  stranger  is  sur- 
prised to  find  how  few  among  the  inhabitants  are  city-born. 
They  are  hardly  considered  tit  to  nurse  children,  all  who  can 
afford  it,  employing  for  that  purpose  Pasiegas,  natives  of  the 
Valley  of  the  Pas  in  the  north-west,  who  bring  a  stock  of  exu- 
berant health  from  their  country.  So  far  as  jjliysical  health  is 
concerned,  it  would  l)o  better  for  the  noliility  to  adopt  the  old 
Fi'ench  plan  of  sending  the  children  awa}'  until  they  have 
attained  size  and  strength. 

In  spite  of  all  these  disadvantages,  added  \n  the  high  ]ii-ice 
of  the  commonest  necessaries  of  life,  Matlrid  is  tlie  great  ^lecca 
in  the  eyes  of  most  Spaniards.  It  is  the  Court— it  alone  is  the 
Court.  Fin-  a  hun(lre<l  dillerent  reasons  they  flock  hither,  some 
because  the}'  have  received  a  little  ofiice,  some  because  thc}'' 
have  received  a  promise  of  one,  some  because  they  hope  to 
receive  a  promise  of  one;  and,  once  hei-e,  notliing  but  the 
direst  necessity  can  drive  them  away.  A  change  of  ministry 
may  cost  the  emplcado  his  place,  but  \\c.  does  not,  therefore, 
return  to  the  rank  of  citizen.  He  becomes  a  cesante,  or,  as  it  is 
more  politely  ex])resscd,  sin  einpleo,  and  lives  on  the  Iio|)c  of 
regaining  his  position.  Ho  enters  tlie  over-tilled  I'anks  of  tlie 
"  diseontented,"  and  is  ready  for  treasons,  stratagems  and  s[)oils. 
The  cmplco-numia,  or  rage  for  office,  has  been  characteristic  of 
Spain  ever  since  the  commencement  of  its  decline.  To  attain 
this  end  they  will  go  any  lengths,  suffer  any  })rivations,  adopt 
any  expedients.  Strange  that  the}'  never  thought  of  the  very 
simple  one  of  organizing  a  party  to  proscribe  the  "wild  hunt 


EMPLEO-MANIA. — PUERTA    DEL    SOL.  95 

aftei*  office."  Thc}-  might  even  yet  loam  something  from  our 
Bide  of  the  Avatcr.  This  state  of  things  in  vSpain  can  easil}*  be 
accounted  for.  Under  the  reign  of  Charles  V  and  Philij)  II, 
the  class  oi'  pretendientes  was  scarcely  known,  because  of  the 
continued  external  activity  of  the  monarch}-,  which  oifered 
to  every  energetic  person  an  avenue  to  wealth  and  distinction. 
Under  their  successors,  the  whole  policy  of  the  Government 
was  changed.  The  nation,  wearied  with  a  world-sovereignty 
of  a  hundred  years'  duration,  determined  to  be  content  with  its 
present  condition.  From  that  moment,  industry  declined  and 
finally  died  out,  and  there  was  no  honest  means  left  of  gaining 
a  livelihood.  The  poor  gentlemen  who  had  been  accustomed 
to  live  by  the  sword,  first  pressed  their  claim  upon  the  Govern- 
ment for  a  support.  The  example  once  set  was  universally 
followed,  and  thousands,  who  without  being  gentkMiien,  were 
poor  as  any  poor  gentleman  ever  was,  rushed  forward.  Crowds 
of  gaunt  figures  beset  the  doors  of  the  ministers,  demanding, 
frequently,  in  no  very  humble  tone,  that  their  wishes  should 
I>c  complied  with.  Bad  as  things  are,  still  they  have  changed 
much  for  the  better;  and,  as  industry  revives,  there  is  every 
reason  to  suppose  that  this  ulcer  of  Madrid  will  disappear.  At 
present,  Madrid  has  all  of  the  vices  and  few  of  the  virtues  of  a 
great  capital.  Its  bankers  are  speculators,  or  more  money- 
changers, and  its  merchants  shop-keepers.  No  one  can  point 
out  the  office  it  performs  in  the  body  politic,  for  it  cannot  even 
aspire  to  the  position  of  the  luxurious  stomach,  which,  at  all 
events,  serves  some  good  j^urpose.  The  spleen  would  suit  it 
better,  as  the  functions  of  that  organ  have  not  yet  been  satis- 
factorily ascertained.  \Ye  do  ample  justice  to  Madrid,  if  Ave 
rank  it  as  the  fly-wheel  of  the  monarchy. 

The  famous  Puerta  del  Sol,  or  Gate  of  the  Sun,  is  the  great 
square  of  Madrid.  No  longer  a  gate,  it  is  in  the  very  centre  of 
the  city.  In  the  last  seven  years,  the  mania  for  imiirovement 
has  reached  even  this  hallowed  precinct,  and  a  semi-circular 
space  of  buildings  at  the  north  has  been  demolished,  in  order  to 
enlarge  and  to  give  it  some  regularity  of  shajie.  One  of  the 
first  buildings  destroyed  was  the  little  church  ot  JVucstra 
Senoi'ci  del  Buen  Suceso,  with  its  illuminated  clock,  that  stood 
to  the  east  between  the  Calle  de  Alcald  and  the  Callc  de  San 
Jeronymo.  This  is  one  of  the  few  churches  I  ever  entered  in 
Madrid,  as,  for   the  most  part,  the}-  possessed   no  attractions. 


96  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    Sl'ANIAUnS. 

Not  so  with  the  HiU'ii  Sticcso,  which  w:is  iho  resort  of  the 
fashioiial<Ie  worhl,  owin<^  partly  to  its  situation  and  partly  to 
its  privileges.  As  Madrid  hours  are  very  late,  many  a  fair 
dunic  used,  on  her  way  home  in  the  mornin<j;,  to  rejient  here 
tlie  indiscretions  of  the  evening's  entertainment,  and  its  ])riv- 
ilege  of  celebrating  mass  as  late  as  two,  p.  m.,  drew  the  slothful 
to  its  altars.  It  was,  moreover,  an  exceedingly  convenient 
place  for  the  loungers  on  the  Plaza,  and  its  clock  is  poorly 
replaced  hy  the  one  over  the  Cdsa  de  Correos.  Readers  of  the 
old  comedies  will  particularly  regret  its  loss.  Strangers  from 
a  distance,  judging  by  the  world-wide  renown  of  the  Puerta  del 
Sol,  expect  to  tind  a  park  of  many  acres,  laid  out  in  grass-plats 
and  fDUiilains.  On  tlie  contrar}'',  it  is  scarcely  wider  than  some 
ol"  our  great  avenues,  and  is  paved  with  glaring  stones,  liut  it 
is  the  heart  of  the  Spanish  monarchy.  All  the  principal  streets 
of  the  city  empty  into  it.  Everybody  going  from  one  quarter 
to  another,  and  all  the  diligences  cross  it;  every  one  who  has 
no  tiro  at  home,  and  nothing  to  do,  (about  ninety-nine  per 
cent..)  goes  to  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  to  enjoy  its  sunshine ;  every 
one  who  has  a  picayune's  worth  to  buy  or  sell,  passes  by  the 
Puerta  del  Sol;  every  one  who  desires  to  tell,  or  to  hear  a 
I'alsehood,  goes  to  the  J'uerta  del  Sol,  so  that  about  guard- 
mounting,  the  place  is  crowded  with  a  motley  assemblage  of 
all  ages  ami  costumes.  Lq  Sage  certainly  knew  nothing  about 
.Madrid,  or  he  never  would  have  taken  the  trouble  to  call  up 
the  JJevil-upon-two-sticks,  Kl  Diablo  Cojuclo,  to  retail  scandal. 
Los  Diablos  {'((juelos.  that  saunter  aliout  this  s(juare,  without 
the  external  cloven  hoof,  would  willingly  have  saved  his  real 
majesty  tiie  trouble  of  aj)})caring.  The  middle-class  of  the 
population  are,  for  the  most  ])art,  idlers,  whether  cmplftKlos  or 
eesantcs;  the  lower  is  coinj)osed  of  tiie  xery  dregs  of  the  popu- 
lace from  every  city  in  Spain;  the  former  always  ready  to 
excite,  the  latter  always  ready  to  carry  out  a  revolution. 
Imagine  them  collected  together,  and  solely  occupied  with  each 
other's  defects,  and  form  an  idea  if  you  can  of  the  conversa- 
tion. It'  1  believed  one  fortieth  part  of  what  I  heard  there,  I 
would  have  thought  there  was  not  one  honest  man,  woman  or 
child  above  ten  years  of  age,  in  the  city  ;  that  the  judges  were 
corrui)t,  the  ministers  traitors,  the  priests  atheists,  the  lawyers 
rogues,  the  doctors  murderers,  and  the  editors  and  telegraph 
agents  a  fraternity  of  liars.     There  is  some  truth  in  what  they 


THE    O  DONNKL    MINISTRY.  Vi 

Avliispcr  about,  but  the  superstructure  of  senuflal  is  so  enor- 
mous as  to  make  one  despair  of  finding  the  little  layer  of 
veracit}"  below.  In  this  place  no  reputation  is  sacred,  and  no 
slander  too  surprising-  not  to  find  some  believers.  I  was  told 
the  most  abominable  things  about  the  president  of  the  minis- 
try, with  a  circumstantiality  of  narrative  calculated  to  carry 
conviction.  My  inf>rmant  Avas  a  ccsanfe.  All  the  rest  were 
handled  in  the  same  manner,  and  neither  sex  spared.  The 
demolition  of  the  church  del  Buen  Suceso  Avill  be  severely  felt 
in  the  next  world,  for  instant  confession  and  absolution  would 
be  necessary  to  save  some  of  these  offenders. 

The  alFair  of  the  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  loads  of 
stone  was  ;i(  this  time  making  a  great  commotion.  "Without 
entering  into  the  matter  minutel}-,  it  is  sufficient  to  state  that 
a  member  of  the  ministr}-  of  Sartorius  was  charged  with  being 
privy  to  a  corrujit  contract  with  the  Government  for  the  deliv- 
ery of  stone.  Jle  had  been  impeached,  but  the  Senate  had 
failed  to  convict.  Since  then,  a  person  behind  the  scenes  had 
come  out  with  an  expose  of  an  exceedingly  damaging  nature 
to  the  offender,  who  had  replied  from  London.  This  brought 
forth  a  renewed  attack.  The  Puerta  del  Sol  was  in  its  glory, 
the  defenders  of  the  Sartorius  ministry  carrying  the  war  into 
yVfrica,  by  attacking  0'J)onnel,  whose  character  could  ill  afford 
to  lose  anything.  Unfortunately,  the  sun  left  but  a  small  strip 
of  shade  in  front  of  the  Casa  de  Correos,  so  that  the  crowd  was 
rather  compact.  Peace  was  maintained,  however,  lor  no  one 
objected  to  the  abuse  of  his  friends,  provided  his  own  liberty  of 
speech  were  not  restricted.  The  correspondents  of  the  foreign 
newspapers  wrote  that  the  O'Donnel  ministi-y  would  scarcely 
survive  the  shock  caused  by  the  failure  to  convict,  or,  perhaps, 
the  attempt  to  shield  the  peccant  minister,  and  that  a  revolu- 
tion was  not  improbable.  Of  this  I  saw  no  signs  whatever, 
.and  Spaniards  make  no  secret  of  such  things,  so  that  the  rumor 
is  apt  to  reach  your  ear  long  before  the  event,  and  is  half  for- 
gotten ere  the  result  is  actually  accomplished  ;  but  the  ferment 
might  have  assumed  larger  proportions  had  not  the  Morocco 
difficulty  intervened.  The  Puerta  has  naturally  been  a  focus 
of  insurrections,  as  it  commands  the  circulation  of  the  citj*.  and 
a  few  barricades  thrown  up  at  each  street  would  be  inconveni- 
ent. For  the  same  reason,  a  strong  guard  is  ])laced  there  to 
suppress  tiic  first  outbreak.     A  regiment   of  determined  men, 


98  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS, 

with  nrtillorv.  could  easily  put  down  any  insurrection;  but, 
unfortunately,  Spanish  insurrections  generally  commence  with 
the  military  itself,  and.  as  I  once  heard  an  old  legitimist  say, 
after  the  coup  d'etat  <»f  the  (Jarde  Nationale:  "Ma  foi.  il  taut 
hien  une  armee  pour  la  garder." 

Notwithstanding  all  these  defects,  the  Pucrta  del  Sol  has 
great  attractions  for  a  native,  and  also  for  a  traveller.  A  cer- 
tain phase  of  life  is  seen  to  perfection,  and,  in  a  social  ]K)int  of 
view,  it  is  one  of  the  liveliest  spots  in  the  world.  The  ever- 
moving  crowd  and  gay  shops  of  the  Boulevards,  are  wanting; 
nor  is  their  any  resemblance  to  the  crush  of  Fleet  street  and 
the  iStrand;  hut,  b}'  way  ot  cumj)ensation,  it  oft'crs  the  costumes 
of  every  province  in  S[taiii.  The  gay  majo  oi"  Andalusia,  the 
soberer  colors  of  Aragon.  the  working  dress  of  the  (Jallican 
brush  against  the  last  foppery  from  Paris.  Thousands  cross  it 
in  a  thousand  directions,  and  for  a  thousand  purposes.  Now 
the  crowd  makes  way  for  a  battalion  of  infantry  with  tlying 
colors,  not  large,  but  tine-looking  lellows,  well  formed,  and  of 
active  march  ;  or  an  escort  of  cavalry,  with  trumpets  sounding 
the  marcha  real,  announces  the  approach  of  royalty.  The 
tiidcling  of  little  bells,  ibllowed  by  a  priest  with  the  eucharist, 
on  its  way  to  cheer  some  departing  soul,  hushes  the  confusion 
into  respectful  silence,  and  causes  the  more  devout  to  fall  njion 
their  knees  before  the  mystical  elements.  These  arc  temporary 
interruptions;  the  great  business  of  slandering  is  iiuinnliately 
renewed. 

Among  the  circulating  j)opulalioii  of  .Madi-id,  none  oftener 
cross  the  stranger's  path  tlian  the  Gallegos,  or  inhabitants  of 
Gallieia,  the  n(n-th-west  province,  situate  upon  the  ocean  and 
the  Ba}'  of  Biscay,  considered  the  Bootia  of  Spain.  Leaving 
their  rainy  mountains,  these  hardy  sons  of  toil  are  found 
wherever  an  honest  penny  is  to  be  turned,  and  in  Madrid  enjoy 
u  mono})oly  of  the  carr\iiig  of  water,  wiiicli.  in  an  elevated 
city  and  almost  rainless  climate,  is  an  extensive  business.  The 
place  ol'  Poi'tador  de  Aqua  is  regularly  bought  and  sold  as  that 
of  an  agent  at  the  Pai'is  Bourse,  involving  the  obligation  of 
attending  fires.  Tliey  scorn  the  aid  of  donkeys,  and  with 
cask  upcjn  shoulder,  stagger  along,  not  parlicidarly  mindful  of 
whose  head  runs  against  it.  They  are  as  honest  as  the  day  is 
long,  and  as  proud,  for  the  Gallicians  and  the  Asturians  claim 
nobility  as  their  birthright,  and  yield  to  none  of  the  artificial 


MANOLAS. son  FTY.  99 

(listinctions  of  rank  wliicli  have  J>oon  created  since  tlic  time  of 
Pelayo.  If  one  of  them  by  chance  receives  an  accession  of 
fortune,  or  a  title,  instead  of  being  elated,  he  merely  considers 
that  his  original  position  is  at  last  acknowledged.  This  little 
conceit,  far  from  rendering  them  idle,  has  the  effect  of  jireserv- 
ing  them  from  the  commission  of  many  petty  meannesses. 

The  lower  classes  of  Madrid  furnish  the  Manolos  and  Mano- 
las,  whose  favorite  haunt  is  the  quarter  toward  the  Manzanares, 
between  the  palace  and  the  gate  of  Atocha,  particularly  around 
the  Plaza  de  Cebada,  or  IJarley  S(piare,  Avhere  public  executions 
take  place.  They  are  the  male  and  female  counterparts  of  that 
portion  of  the  American  population  which  is  called,  in  slang 
language,  "  B'hoys,"  not  that  there  is,  after  all,  any  very  close 
resemblance  between  them.  Notwithstanding  their  reputation, 
they  have  little  of  the  wit  which  redeems  the  similar  classes  in 
other  S])anish  cities.  They  have,  or  rather  had,  for  the  race  is 
ftist  (lisapi)earing,  a  ])eculiar  costume,  and  the  women  were  dis- 
tinguished for  carr3-ing  a  dagger  in  the  right  garter,  which  was 
not  unfrequently  appealed  to,  so  that  the  act  of  stooping  by  a 
Manola  was  generall}-  followed  by  a  rapid  widening  of  the  circle 
around,  as  n  stroke  from  her  experienced  hand  was  a])t  to  be 
])ainful  in  its  consequences.  This  class  furnishes  sweethearts 
lor  bull-fighters,  and  wives  for  the  barricade  heroes.  JBeyond 
that,  there  is  no  useful  purpose  to  society  whicli  they  are 
known  to  subserve.  The  men  are  always  ready  for  an}-  deed 
of  violence  which  may  enure  to  their  advantage.  Yet  they 
have  a  sort  of  celebrity,  and  figure  largely  on  jiublic  occasions, 
while  the  costume  is  frequently  seen  at  fancy  balls  to  grace  the 
delicate  figures  of  the  aristocracy. 

Owing  to  the  variet}'  of  strangers  collected  from  the  difterent 
provinces  and  from  abroad,  society  in  ]\IadiMd  is  nuich  more 
gay  than  in  most  other  portions  of  Spain.  In  the  winter, 
if  there  be  no  cause  of  mourning  at  the  palace,  there  is  a 
round  of  balls  and  parties  from  the  first  ol  January  until  Ash 
Wednesday.  There  are  numerous  TertuUas  besides.  The  pres- 
ence of  a  diplomatic  corps  from  the  dining  countries  of  Europe, 
has  introduced  this  habit  also,  and  with  it  the  driidiing  of 
wine,  for  the  j)leasure  of  drinking,  which  is  quite  unknown 
to  Spaniards.  The  last  two  cnjoj-ments  arc  still  confined  to 
foreigners,  and  even  they  soon  get  out  of  the  habit.  After 
spending  some  time  among  these  sober  people,  it  is  really  a 


100  SI'AIN    AM»    THK    SPANIARDS. 

relief  to  see  a  ^(MHleinaii  lollim;  alioul  w  ith  i)nrpk'  lace  and 
Htaggerin"  le^s,  pronounciiiijj  the  scenery  too-ral  loo-ral,  or 
avowing  a  readiness  "  to  wliip  his  weight  in  wild-cats,"  accord- 
ing to  idi(»synerasy.  It  looks  so  cheerful  and  home-like,  as 
thongh  the  good  old  Anglo-Saxon  civilization  had  not  entirely 
disa]ij)eared  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 

The  opera  in  Madrid  is  very  tini'.  and  the  taste  of  the  Madri- 
IcHos  for  scientific  music  is  hotter  than  usual,  though  they  have 
never  jiroduced  a  grea'.  composer.  Theatres  there  are  in 
abundance,  the  iii-inci])al  of  which  are  the  L'rinci])e  and  I^a 
C'ruz,  where  it  is  possible  occasionally  to  hear  a  piece  from  the 
classic  drama.  The  French  vaudevilles  have  routed  the  na- 
tional eomed}'  in  Spain,  Germany  and  Jtaly.  and  if  there  is 
any  useless  occupation  in  the  woi'ld.  it  is  listening  to  a  Parisian 
vaudeville;  well  enough,  when  it  is  a  secondary  means  of 
accomplishing  some  other  end,  but  its  attractions,  in  a  foreign 
country,  translated  into  a  foreign  idiom,  and  performed  b}'  pco- 
])le  whose  national  peculiarities  prevent  their  entering  into  its 
sjiirit,  would  scarcely  overcome  that  otfered  by  the  Pasco  and 
a  segar.  The  saynetc  is  really  Spanish,  and  performed  admi- 
rably by  Spanish  actors.  Here  they  are  at  home,  rehearsing 
their  daily  life.  If  an  actor  forgets  the  words  of  his  part,  it  is 
very  easy  i'or  him  to  supply-  them  e.v  tempore.  When  they  pass 
from  the  vaudeville  to  the  sayncte,  it  is  as  when  an  Andalusian 
in  Paris  (piits  his  tight-fitting  Boulevard  dress-coat,  and  slips  on 
his  majo  costume,  to  go  to  a  fancy  ball.  Where  everyone  el.'^e 
is  constrained,  he  is  at  ease.  Quite  the  i-everse  happens  with 
the  vaudeville,  the  easy  frivolity  and  gay  emptiness  of  which 
the  tragic  Spaniards  nevei-  really  a])[)reciate. 

Spanish  theatres  ai-e  pleasantly  arranged  for  paying  visits, 
as  the  boxes  are  frequently  owned,  or  hired  for  the  season,  and 
the  occupants  expect  to  receive  company  between  the  acts. 
The  entrance  tickets  arc  sold  at  the  dooi-,  wiiieh  give  admit- 
tance to  an}'  part  of  the  house,  but  no  right  to  a  seat,  so  that 
one  may  enjoy  the  societ}'  of  his  friends  without  being  bored 
by  the  play.  There  is  one  curious  arrangement  about  Spanish 
theatres  W(»rili\-  of  remark.  A  little  gallery  is  set  apart,  where 
none  but  women  are  admitted,  and  such  a  chattering  is  kept 
up!  Such  a  waving  of  fans,  and  arranging  of  mantillas  I 
The  place  is  called  by  various  names.  Tertulla  de  his  niu- 
jcres  is  proper;   but  by   the  irreverent   it  is  not  unfrcquently 


MADRILKNOS. — rilRISTMAS.  101 

styled  el  gallinero,  or  "  hen-house,"  from  the  eternal  fluttering 
and  cackling.  A  sentinel  has  especial  guard  over  the  fair  pul- 
lets that  enter  therein,  hut  should,  perchance,  an}'  adventurous 
rooster  evade  the  watchfulness  of  this  Argus,  the  ancient,  hut 
still  formidable  hens,  would  speedily  eject  him. 

The  hours  at  Madrid,  in  winter,  are  ridiculously  late.  In 
summer,  it  is  well  enough  to  turn  night  into  day,  because  night 
is  the  pleasantest  part  ot  the  twenty-four  hours,  but  such  a 
course  in  the  winter  is  sheer  lolly.  Eleven  to  one,  generally 
the  latter,  is  the  time  for  going  to  an  evening  entertainment, 
and  da^dight  the  time  for  leaving.  So  that  some  of  the  popu- 
lation seldom  see  the  sun  in  the  months  of  December  and 
January.  This  has,  doubtless,  much  to  do  with  the  unhealthy 
pallor  that  characterizes  the  ladies,  in  contrast  with  the  robust 
health  so  universal  elsewhere  in  the  Peninsula.  Even  State 
business  is  frequently  transacted  at  night.  In  truth,  fashions 
here  are  a  strong  Paris  graft  upon  a  Spanish  stock,  in  some 
respects  xhyj  pleasant,  in  others  involving  puzzling  contradic- 
tions. Unfortunately,  the  gravity  of  the  Castillian  does  not 
cloak  here  his  proverbial  sincerity  or  probity,  and  complaints 
are  lone:  and  loud  about  the  faithlessness  of  the  Madrileiios. 
Part  of  this  is  true;  ]>art  of  it,  however,  is  due  simply  to  its 
misfortune  of  being  a  capital,  where  forms  and  ceremonies  fre- 
(juently  usurp  the  place  of  real  emotions.  Nor  would  it  be 
just  to  enter  this  sweeping  denunciation  against  the  whole  of 
Madrid,  for  it  should  rather  be  contined  to  the  Court  and  Gov- 
ernment circles.  An  apparently  insignificant  evidence  of  the 
domestic  feeling,  in  a  certain  class  of  the  population,  is  the 
manner  in  which  Christmas  is  celebrated.  For  days  l)cfore, 
droves  of  turkeys  can,  or  could,  be  seen  wending  their  way  to 
tlie  city — for  ever}-  family  must  have  its  turkey.  The  streets, 
on  the  Christmas  Mhen  I  was  there,  were,  after  an  early  liour, 
deserted,  except  b}-  ourselves,  i.  e.,  myself  and  another  Ameri- 
can, and  one  beggar,  on  horseback,  who  jjursued  us  with 
unconquerable  pertinacitj'.  The  old  maxim  of  ''  a  beggar  on 
horseback,"  was  fomiliar  to  us,  and  I  supposed  that  this  was 
not  an  unusual  custom,  but  it  struck  us  as  absurd  to  give  char- 
ity to  horsemen,  so  we  obstinateh'  refused,  though  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow.  I  afterwards  learned  that  it  Avas  the 
universal  custom  to  give  to  beggars  at  Christmas,  so  much  so, 
that  the}'  regard  it  a  right,  and  those  who  cannot  walk  borrow 


102  M'AIN    AMt    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

horses  for  (Ik-  purpose.  So  tliat,  after  all.  tlio  poor  follow  was 
not  to  Maine,  and  we  had  failed  in  (lie  -greatest  of  Christian 
duties  uj»oli  the  anniversary  of  the  da}'  that  broujrht  our 
Saviour  into  the  world.  This  little  eircunistance  has  remained 
in  my  memory  ever  since,  accompanied  by  no  few  regrets. 

Chrislnnis  Eve,  or  noclie  buciui,  (the  good  night,)  as  it  is 
called  in  Spanish,  we  went  to  a  pujipct  show,  a  nacimiento,  one 
of  the  few  relies  that  have  come  down  from  the  ages  when  it 
was  not  considered  disrespectful  to  i-i'in-esent  sacred  person- 
ages upon  the  stage.  The  first-class  seats  were  at  tlie  mod- 
erate j)rice  of  a  peseta,  or  twenty  cents.  The  room  was  not 
large,  ami  was  filled  with  childi'cn,  generally  under  the  guar- 
dianshi])  of  their  fathers.  It  was  delightful  to  see  the  relation 
of  confidence  and  friendship  existing  between  them.  The 
curtain  i-ose  ujxjii  a  church  scene,  an  (jld  sacristan  and  an 
altar-b;y  lighting  the  long  candles.  The  latter  did  not  give 
satisfaction  to  the  foi-mor.  for  the  olil  fellow  dealt  him  a  tre- 
mendous whack  U])on  the  lu'ad.  Avhich  was  retuiMied  in  good 
earnest,  amid  the  roars  of  the  autlieuce,  and  the  two  went  skir- 
mishing olf.  The  subject  of  the  re|trcsentation  was  suitable  to 
the  occasion — the  Flight  into  Kgypl — and  the  ]»rinci|)al  char- 
acters, naturally,  Josejth  and  Maiy.  Their  adventures  Avcre 
numerous,  as  may  be  supposed.  Once  they  experien(;ed  grout 
difiiculty  in  finding  lodging.  It  was  already  late  at  night; 
vari(ms  peojile  were  knocked  i\\)  and  m;'.de  their  appearance  at 
the  windows,  but  refused  to  admit  the  wayfarers,  some  of  them 
hinting  strongly  that  they  were  no  better  than  tiii'v  should  be, 
strolling  alxtut  in  (his  manner,  and  that  the  ass  had  boon 
stolen.  On  another  occasion  ihe\  wire  assaulted,  but  Joseph 
made  such  good  use  of  his  staff  that  the  robbers  were  soon  put 
to  flight.  This  jiart  elicited  great  a])plause  from  the  children, 
and  brought  down  the  house.  ]5ut.  do  not  suppose  that  they 
left  the  hall  with  the  slightest  iri'everent  feeling.  It  is  one  of 
those  strange  conti'adict i(Mis.  handed  down  from  a  remote  date, 
that  no  one  would  lu'liivc  if  not  instructed  by  histoiy  or  expe- 
rience. The  small  children  were  certainly  none  the  worse  for 
the  exhibition,  and  the  lai'ge  ones  slept  ([uite  as  soundly. 

Ktireigiiers  complain  that  the  .Ma(lrilen(js  are  t'oud  ol'  eating 
at  tiie  exitense  of  otiiei-s,  but  are  not  given  to  reciprocity,  and 
various  reasons  arc  otfered  in  justification,  all  of  which  have 
their    infiuence.     It    is   partly    haliit,  partly  jjovert}',  for   vei-y 


CUSTOMS. TIIK    PUADO.  103 

many  families  of  high  descent  and  respectability  are  greatly 
restricted  in  mone}'^  matters,  and  are  compelled  to  resort  to 
man}'  shifts  in  order  to  keep  u])  ap])earances  of  decenc}'.  In- 
(.leed,  it  is  a  wonder  how  man}'  of  them  live  through.  Many 
persons  upon  receiving  an  office  remove  hither  wilh  tlu'ir  fam- 
ilies. They  die  or  lose  their  office,  but  the  family  never  returns ; 
and  as  there  is  no  means  of  gaining  a  livelihood,  they  remain, 
if  they  marry,  for  generations,  in  straitened  circumstances,  steal- 
ing forth  at  dawn  or  dusk  to  church,  in  order  to  avoid  a  display 
of  their  misery.  Natives  and  foreigners  agree  that  Madrid  is 
the  least  Spanish  city  in  Spain.  Its  inhabitants  take  a  pride 
in  adopting  the  customs  of  other  countries  and  rejecting  their 
own,  without  discrimination  between  what  is  Avorthy  of  preser- 
vation and  what  not.  Madrid,  thei'efore,  is  essentially  imita- 
tive, and,  as  a  natural  consequence,  it  produces  nothing  great. 
SjKinish  ideas,  Sj^anish  manners,  Spanish  men,  Spanish  women, 
must  be  sought  in  the  provinces,  at  Seville,  Valencia,  Saragoza, 
or  Burgos.  Yet  the  Madrileiios  are  excessivel}^  proud  of  their 
home,  and  think  that  a  residence  here  compensates  for  a  multi- 
tude of  mistortuncs. 

The  Puerta  del  Sol  is  by  no  means  the  only  gathering  ]ilace 
for  the  Madrileiios.  The  city  has  an  unusual  nuint)er.  Most 
distinguished  among  them  is  the  famous  Prado,  a  magnificent 
promenade,  with  numerous  avenues,  extending  a  couple  ot 
miles  toward  the  gate  of  the  Atocha.  From  the  Puerta  del 
Sol  two  tine  streets  lead  thither,  the  Carrera  de  San  Geronymo 
and  the  Calle  de  Alcala,  the  latter  one  of  the  noblest  in  p]urope. 
Of  ordinary  width  at  the  beginning,  it  widens  ra])idly,  ciii'ving 
gently  to  the  west.  As  the  Prado  is  in  a  sort  of  valley,  the 
C'alle  de  Alcala  offers  a  noble  prospect,  and  when  filled  with  the 
gay  throng  of  fantasticall}'  decorated  vehicles  and  mules,  on 
their  way  to  the  bull-fight,  it  is,  perhaps,  the  most  striking 
scene  in  S[)ain.  About  sunset  in  the  summer,  one  endless  pro- 
cession covers  its  walks  to  enjoy  the  moonlight  and  evening 
air  upon  their  favorite  promenade.  The  Prado  itself  has  under- 
gone many  changes,  and  in  its  present  shape  would  scarcely  be 
recognized  by  the  old  travellers,  who  a  century  ago  described 
its  wonders.  At  first  it  was,  doubtless,  a  meadow,  as  its  name 
indicates,  but  there  must  have  been  much  more  water  then 
than  now.  During  the  residence  of  the  Austrian  sovereigns  in 
the  Palace  of  the  Buen  Retiro,  on  the  opposite  side,  it  became 


104  SPAIN    AM)    THK    SPANIARDS. 

the  <;rt'ator  llioatro  for  assas;sinutioiis.  and  a  i^oneral  roiulezvous 
lor  all  who  had  reasons  for  eoncealini^  their  deeds  from  the 
li<;ht.  Charles  III — to  wIkjiu,  with  his  enlightened  minis- 
ters, the  Counts  of  Aranda  and  of  Florida  Blanca.  Spain  is 
indehted  for  so  many  bi-iielits — transformed  it  into  an  elegant 
pj-omcnado,  upon  whieh  Castillian  grandeur  displayed  its  vir- 
tues and  viees.  lie  even  attempted,  in  imitation  of  the  Czar's 
attack  uj)on  the  Kussian  beards,  to  abolish  the  cloaks  and 
broad  hats  so  admirably  calculated  for  intrigue,  but  without 
the  same  success.  Time  and  the  convulsions  of  the  War  of 
Independence  have  silently  accomplished  these  changes,  and 
hats,  i)oignards,  antedcluvian  coaches,  and  even  cloaks  have 
disappeared  Irom  the  more  fashionable  portions.  Certain  por- 
tions have  become  gradually  dedicated  to  certain  purposes  and 
certain  classes  of  society.  The  favorite  walk  for  the  gay  world 
in  summer  is  the  salon  between  the  Calle  dc  Alcahi  and  of 
San  Geronymo.  an  open  space  of  some  two  or  three  hundred 
feet  in  width,  with  rows  of  stone  benches  and  neat  ir()n  chairs 
on  each  side,  and  a  place  for  carriages  and  equestrians  separat- 
ing it  from  another  walk  under  the  trees.  Here  from  eight  to 
eleven  in  summer,  and  from  three  to  five  in  winter,  are  assem- 
bled the  rank  and  fashion  of  the  metropolis,  and  a  beautil'ul 
sight  it  is.  Two  tiles  of  elegant  equipages  jiass  continually  in 
stately  review,  resplendent  with  the  "  /?or  y  nata  dc  hi  Aristo- 
cracia."  Representatives  fron)  every  province  in  Spain,  and 
Irom  various  nations  of  Europe,  meet  to  form  or  renew  ac- 
quaintances. Languishing  ej^es  flash  beneath  dark  mantillas ; 
a  gentle  wave  of  the  fan  is  responded  to  by  the  removal  of 
polishecl  beavers;  flirtations  are  commenced,  and  courtships 
concluded;  politeness,  cordiality',  nay  friendship,  seem  to  unite 
the  whole  |)(Ji)ulation  in  one  elastic  band  of  a  common  brother- 
hood, ll  is  whisijered  tluit  t liese  ai)pearanccs  are  not  always 
boriif  oii(  l>y  the  reality,  uwd  that  when  the  minister  of  yester- 
day liows  with  winning  grace  to  the  minister  of  to-day,  he 
does  not  the  less  ibr  all  that  wish  his  excellency  at  the  bottom 
of  the  Manzanares.  But  let  us  leave  those  investigations  to 
the  travelling  Ileraelitus,  or  the  evil  genius  of  the  Puerta  del 
Sol,  and  enjoy  the  world  not  as  it  is,  but  as  it  seems  to  be.  The 
Prad(j  in  summer  does  not  offer  the  same  throng,  nor  as  gi-eat 
variety  as  in  winter,  but  the  pure  moonlight  of  an  August 
evening  throwvs   an   indescribable   charm '  of  romance  over   the 


ENVIRONS    OF    PRADO.  105 

scene,  and  it  is  worth  the  trouble  of  roastiiii;^  through  the  day, 
fur  the  sake  of  enjoying  the  niglit.  Notwithstanding  tlie  inva- 
sion of  French  milliners,  the  costume  of  the  ladies  who  prom- 
enade on  foot  is  generally  Spanish,  but  of  the  men,  what  shall 
I  say  ?  In  place  of  the  grand  old  style  of  former  days,  they 
have  substituted  dress  coats,  narrow  brim  felt  hats  and  sticks; 
so  that  with  all  due  respect  it  must  be  said,  that  the  l)ucks  of 
Madrid  recalled  in  personal  attire,  the  gentrj'  known  in  Amer- 
ica as  <'  Bowery  swells."  What  strange  infatuation  could  have 
induced  them  to  select  such  a  dress  is  inconceivable,  more  par- 
ticularly since,  when  suitabl}^  clad,  the  majority  of  Spaniards 
are  remarkably  well  shaped  and  elegant.  On  horseback  they 
appear  much  better,  and  galloping  on  prancing  Andalusiau 
coursers,  beside  the  carriage  door  of  some  fair  beauty,  recall 
the  gallant  cavalici's  of  a  past  age. 

lieyond  the  Prado  lie  the  beautiful  gai-dens  of  El  Buen 
Eetiro,  a  delightful  resort  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Below 
them  is  the  Botanical  Garden,  which,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
century,  bid  lair  to  be  the  most  extensive  in  Europe.  It  was 
intended  to  collect  specimens  from  the  whole  of  the  Spanish 
dominions,  comprising,  at  tbat  time,  a  respectable  part  of 
Europe  and  Asia,  and  half  the  continent  of  America.  But  the 
wars  of  Napoleon  involved  the  destruction  of  this  as  of  many 
other  munificent  projects.  There  used  to  be  here  a  great  man- 
ufactory of  porcelain,  called  La  China,  which  the  English,  on 
their  retreat  from  Madrid,  blew  u]i ;  the  Spanish  say  fi'om  com- 
mercial jealousy  ;  the  English  say  to  prevent  the  French  from 
converting  it  into  a  fortification.  Between  the  two,  Spain 
fared  like  the  cats  who  called  on  the  monkey  to  divide  their 
clieese.  The  one  nibbles  oft"  Toledo,  the  other  Granada,  then 
again  Madrid,  and  so  justice  proceeds.  Passing  outside  the 
city  walls  by  the  gate  of  Recolctos,  the  promenade  is  continued 
still  a  considerable  distance.  Crossing  the  Prado  by  the  Calle 
de  Alcala,  the  street  ascends  to  the  gate  of  the  same  name  on 
the  road  to  Valencia,  one  of  the  finest  structures  in  the  king- 
dom. Just  outside  is  the  P(a::a  de  Toros,  or  Bull  ring.  During 
the  extreme  heat  of  the  summer  the  funciones  are  suspended, 
and  its  only  attraction  at  this  time  was  an  animal  whose  per- 
formances had  been  remarkable.  Kight  liorses  had  already 
fallen  when  the  progress  of  the  drama  was  interrupted  by  a 
storm,  if  I  do  not  forget,  and  the  hero  was  reserved  for  the 


106  fil'.VIX    AND    THK    SPAMAnnS. 

breed.  He  looked  sufticienth-  miserable,  quite  thin.baving  lost 
twf>-tliirdK  f»f  liis  weif^bt,  bis  neck  covered  witb  wounds,  and 
tbe  sole  companion  <»1"  bis  sorrows  being  a  brindled  ox,  witb  a 
bell  around  bis  neck.  To  tbe  west,  again,  beyond  tbe  Buen 
Keliro,  is  tbe  Musco,  and  still  fartber  on,  tbe  Calle  dc  Atocba, 
anotber  fine  street,  wbicb,  after  crossing  tbe  Prado,  leads  to  tbo 
C'btircb  of  Atocba  and  tbe  observatory,  (^n  tbo  si<le  towards 
tbe  city  tbere  arc  no  buildings  fronting  upon  tbe  Prado  itself, 
wbicb  lias  alwaj's  struck  mc  as  sometbing  strange.  But  tbe 
trees  sbut  out  the  view  from  all  that  is  insignificant.  As  tbo 
sun  ileclincs,  tbo  scene  is  enlivened  by  the  play  of  fountains, 
some  of  wliicb,  as  tbose  of  Neptune,  of  Apollo,  and  of  C3'bcle, 
produce  a  fine  effect,  tbougb  tbey  may  be  criticised,  if  one  be 
so  dispctised.  But  tbe  most  striking  monument  is  that  of  HI 
Dos  de  Mayo,  or  tbe  second  of  May,  crectod  in  bonor  of  tboso 
wbo,  on  tbe  2d  of  May,  180S,  refused  to  surrender  tbeir  cannon 
to  tbe  Frencb  troops,  and  thus  c(Mnmcnccd  tbe  War  of  Inde- 
pendence, wbicb  undermined  tbe  power  of  Napoleon,  and  was 
tbe  original,  tbougb  not  tlic  immediate  cause  of  tbo  downfall 
of  that  arcli-tyi'ant.  Well  may  Sjiaiiiartls  bo  proud  when  re- 
memliering  tbat  three  oUiccrs,  with  a  half  battery  of  cannon, 
in  downright  disobedience  of  orders,  braved  tbe  despot  of  tbo 
age  and  certain  death  in  defence  of  the  honor  of  their  country. 
The  anniversary  of  this  event  is  celebrated  with  almost  as  n)uch 
enthusiasm  as  the  Fourth  of  .Inly  with  us.  All  true  patriots 
must  wish  tliMt  it  may  long  continue  to  rciiiind  them  of 
tbe  danger  to  which  tliey  are  exposed  from  their  ainl)itious 
neighbor. 

Following  the  Cdltc  Magor,  which  K-ads  from  the  Piicrta  del 
Sol,  in  the  oj)posite  direction,  we  reach  tiie  Plazii  del  Oricntc,  in 
front  of  tbe  Palace,  forming  a  semi-circle,  wltii  a  beautiful 
garilen  in  the  centi'e.  which  is  ornamented  by  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  Philip  I\'.  It  I'cjirosents  him  on  a  pi-aiicing 
charger,  mane  and  tail  streaming  in  the  bi'ooze.  By  moon- 
light, it  is  one  of  tbo  most  elegant  productions  of  art  in  the 
world,  and  seems  really  to  live.  The  Plaza  del  Oricnto  is  fre- 
quented rather  by  nurses  and  the  bourgeoisie  tlian  those  who 
aspire  to  he  reckoned  among  the  l)eau  mondc  of  nobles  and 
Manolos.  All  the  children  in  .Madrid  seem  to  have  given  one 
another  rendezvous,  and  your  toes  arc  continually  crushed  by 
trundling  hoojjs  or  the  wheels  of  g(Kit  carts  and  similar  iiifan- 


THE  PALACE. — MANZANARES.  107 

tile  abominations.  The  amount  of  talk  was  astonishinc::.  The 
Palace  itself  may  compare  favorably  with  any  in  Europe.  By 
day  its  whiteness  is  dazzling,  but  in  an  August  night  it  aj)- 
peared  a  mass  of  virgin  snow,  recalling  tlie  Ice  Palace  of 
Eussia.  The  site  was  formerly  occupied  b}'  the  l^Ioorish  Alca- 
zar, subsequentlj^  by  a  ro,yal  residence,  which  was  destroyed 
by  fire.  The  present  edifice  was  built  by  Philip  V,  of  a 
stone  from  Colmenar,  whicli,  in  the  pure  air  of  Madrid,  pre- 
serves its  pristine  aiipearaneo.  as  though  cpiarried  yestcrdaj*. 
Vast  as  it  is,  it  is  b}'  no  means  equal  to  the  plan  first  proposed, 
which  startled  the  sovereign  by  its  immensity.  The  inside 
contains  many  grand  saloons,  with  gorgeous  furniture  and 
beautiful  frescoes,  but  they  are  tiresome  things  to  describe,  and 
are,  after  all,  mucii  like  similar  arrangements  in  other  capitals. 
The  stables,  however,  are  well  worth  a  visit  for  all  who  delight 
in  fine  horses,  from  the  graceful  Cordovese  barb  to  the  tiior- 
ough-bred  English  courser.  Owing  to  the  absence  of  the 
Court,  they  were  at  present  comparatively  empty,  but  on  the 
previous  visit  they  contained,  in  mj'  opinion,  the  liandsomest, 
I  will  not  say  the  best,  stud  in  Europe.  I  have  remarked  that 
Spanish  horses  belonging  to  the  better  classes,  frequently  pre- 
sent ratlier  a  pot-bellied  appearance  ;  some  persons  have  told 
me  that  it  is  caused  b}-  the  habit  of  stuffing  them  with  quanti- 
ties of  unnutritious  food,  and  the  little  violent  exercise  they 
take.  Those  that  are  engaged  in  constant  occupation  certainly 
have  no  such  defect.  Quicn  sabc.  The  great  ambition  seems  to 
be  to  get  them  fat.  Tiie  adjoining  coach  house  contains  a 
most  curious  collection  of  those  ancient-looking  vehicles  which 
bruised  the  bones  of  deceased  grandees,  and  have  been  happily- 
replaced  by  coupes  and  landaus. 

The  view  from  the  terrace  of  the  Palace  over  the  A'alloy  of 
the  Manzanares,  and  the  country  intervening  to  the  Guadara- 
ma,  is  sternly  grand ;  and  some  winter  morning  when  the 
wind  blows  from  the  snow-capped  peaks,  those  who  wish  to 
know  the  sensation  of  cold  in  its  greatest  degree,  can  have 
their  curiosity  fully  gratified.  It  is  in  these  sentr}-  boxes  that 
soldiers  are  so  frequently  found  dead.  No  wonder  that  former 
sovereigns  preferred  the  sunny  exjiosure  of  El  Ruon  Retiro. 
The  palace  gardens  extend  to  the  little  river,  far  below,  from 
who.se  banks  the  white  palace,  towering  on  the  hill  above, 
presents  a  magnificent  appearance.     The  Manzanaus  has  some- 


lOS  SPAIN    AM»    THK    SI'ANIAUDS. 

how  manajTcd  to  attain  celebrity,  thouffh  none  can  exactly  tell 
why.  Victor  nn<jr(»,  and  other  poets  who  never  saw  it,  speak 
of  Seville  and  its  (Jiiadalquivir.  Madrid  and  its  Munzanares. 
Could  they  only  see  this  ]>iiiiy  hrook.  this 

Duque  dc  arroyos 
Y  vizconde  do  lo8  rios 

of  Gon^ora,  stnii;gling  to  escape  the  attacks  of  the  direful 
washerwomen  that  line  its  hanks,  how  disappointed  tluy 
would  he  !  The  feast  of  San  Isidro  or  the  Iilntierro  de  la  Sar- 
dina,  makes  its  banks  re-echo  with  the  clicking  of  castagnettes 
and  the  sound  of  merriment,  luit  its  muddy  waters  add  little 
to  the  entertainment.  Farther  on,  there  is  a  very  pleasant 
walk  in  winter,  Las  Delicias.  I  strolled  down  one  August 
afternoon  and  found  t!ie  effluvia,  difference  of  size  considered, 
equal  to  that  of  the  Thames  at  IjOikIoii  In'idge,  which,  towards 
the  end  of  June  last,  was  the  most  ahoniinahle  stench  that  ever 
saluted  my  nostrils.  Fortniiately,  llie  Mauzanares  is  too  far 
removed  from  the  city  to  extend  its  iutluence  thither.  Though 
so  insigniticant  a  thing,  it  has  the  honor  of  being  spanned  by 
bridges  of  wiiich  the  Mississip]>i  might  ])e  proud.  The  mag- 
nificence of  these  structures  is  in  amusing  contrast  with  the 
general  scarcity  of  water,  and  has  greatly  provoked  the  satire 
of  poets  and  travellers. 

Madrid  possesses  two  galleries  of  paintings,  MJiich  are  unri- 
valled exce])t  by  the  V^atican.  The  first  of  ihesc  is  llu-  Acade- 
my of  San  l'\'niando,  small  in  niiniliers,  but  priceless  in  value. 
The  gems  ol"  ibe  collection  ai-c  llirei-  paintings  by  Murillo, 
which  were  taUi'ii  to  J'ai-is  from  Seville  b}'  Soult,  whoso  net 
caught  everything  from  church  plate  to  works  of  art.  One 
represents  St.  Isabel  dressing  a  sore  upon  a  beggar  boy's  headj 
an  incongruous  subject  for  a  fine  picture,  you  exclaim,  and  it 
does  seem  so  in  its  ])rcsent  position;  but  had  it  been  restored 
to  the  hospital  for  which  it  was  originall}'  painted,  the  selec- 
tion of  the  subject  would  have  struck  one  as  exceedingly  ha])py. 
All  the  excellencies  of  tlie  art  are  here  united.  The  invention 
is  good,  as  nothing  could  have  more  forcibly  impressed  the  idea 
of  charity  in  a  public  hospital,  than  a  beautiful  woman  of 
the  higiiest  rank  performing  so  loathsome  a  part  as  the  heal- 
ing of  a  beggar's  sores.  The  composition  is  still  better.  The 
little  beggar  himself  is  bent   over  a  basin,  his   hands   resting 


ACADEMY    OF    SAN    FERNANDO. — THE    MUSEO.  1C9 

upon  his  knees.  A  barc-legt^ed  man  seated  upon  the  floor,  a 
hard-skinned  old  woman,  and  another  boy  occupy'  the  fore- 
ground to  the  right.  In  the  centre  of  the  picture,  beside  the 
beggar,  is  the  Saint,  "while  the  background  is  filled  with  her 
noble  assistants,  in  the  finest  style  of  Andalusian  beauty.  The 
contrast  between  these  groups  is  visible  even  in  their  hair  and 
the  niinutest  portion  of  their  dross,  and  reminds  one  of  Titian's 
"  Tribute  Money  "  at  Dresden.  The  efloet  ])roduced  l)y  this 
contrast  of  the  highest  style  of  beauty  with  unkeinpt  beggary 
is  most  agreeable,  for  the  beggars  are  by  no  means  portrayed 
in  a  revolting  manner.  The  drawing  and  coloring  leave  noth- 
ing to  bo  desired.  The  other  room  contains  two  large  pictures 
representing  the  Dream  of  the  Koman  Patrician,  about  Sta. 
JIaria  Maggiorc  and  its  Fulfilment.  In  the  former,  the  Patri- 
cian is  discovered  dozing  at  the  table,  while  the  Virgin  floating 
in  the  clouds,  points  out  the  site  of  the  future  church.  Perhaps 
it  would  not  be  venturing  too  far  to  say  that  this  is  the  finest 
portraiture  of  womanl}'  beauty  I  have  ever  seen.  Goddess  she 
is  not,  but  a  woman,  a  lovely,  pure,  angelic  woman,  such  as  the 
artist  himself  might  become  enamored  of  Both  figures  are 
true  tSpaniards.  The  Patrician  is  a  real  Castilliau  Cavalier, 
and  the  Virgin,  no  one  but  an  Andalusian  could  have  painted. 
The  Fulfilment  is  not  so  striking.  The  Patrician  and  his  wife 
kneel  to  the  Pope,  explaining  the  revelation  that  had  been 
made.  The  artist  could  not  refi-ain  from  taking  a  sly  cut  at 
the  clergy,  by  representing  an  old  Priest  or  Cardinal  anxiously 
fitting  liis  glasses  to  take  a  look  at  the  lady.  'I'hoso  three  Mu- 
rillos  are  worth  most  of  the  galleries  in  Jujrope,  and  the  Direc- 
tors have  done  well  to  separate  them  from  the  Museo. 

The  two  rooms  contain  half  a  dozen  other  paintings  of  merit. 
An  "Ascencion,"  by  Murillo  ;  a  fine  "Crucifixion,"  by  Alonzo 
Cano,  and  a  "San  Antonio,"  byPibera;  but  they  have  been 
overshadowed  b}'  the  others,  and  do  not  receive  the  notice  to 
which  they  are  entitled. 

The  other  gallery  is  at  the  Museo,  a  collection  as  remarkable 
for  the  excellence  as  for  the  number  of  its  paintings.  It  con- 
tains more  good  pictures  than  can  be  found  in  any  capital  in 
Europe,  except  Jijways  Pome.  At  the  time  of  tlic  greatest 
glory  of  modern  art  in  Italy  and  (jlcrmany,  and  the  Low  Coun- 
tries, the  Spanish  dominion  extended  over  those  countries,  and 
its  throne   was   filled   by   monarchs  who    were   imbued  with   a 


110  SPAIN    AND    TnF.    .SPANIARPS. 

genuine  taste  for  the  beautiful  in  |)aintin«;s.  Tljo  relations  of 
Charles  V  with  Titian,  of  Philip  IV  with  IJubons  ami  Velas- 
quez, were  rather  those  of  frit-ndshij)  than  command.  The 
execution  of  Cimrles  I  of  England,  almost  tlu*  only  jtorson  in 
that  countrv  who  seems  to  have  had  a  taste  for  art,  aftbrded  an 
oj»|iortiinity,  eagerly  rnihraced.  of  j)roeuring  some  tine  works 
tlmt  iiad  wandered  thither.  The  natural  relations  of  empire 
cauM'd  a  h'gitinnite  flow  of  the  master  pieces  of  artists  tctward 
the  centre  of  influence,  and  thus  were  collected  in  the  vai'ious 
Spanish  palaces  the  choicest  treasures  of  Europe.  The  greater 
portion  have  found  their  way  to  the  Museo.  The  number,  ac- 
cording to  the  oilicial  catalogue,  was  two  thousand  and  (me, 
including,  of  the  Italian  schools — ten  Uafaelles,  one  Buonarottis, 
lliree  Leonardo  da  Vincis,  forty-three  Tizians,  ten  Annibal 
Caraccis,  sixteen  Guidos,  seven  Andreas  del  Sartos,  four  Correg- 
gios.  two  Domenichinos,  thirt\'-four  Tintonettos,  twenty-Hve 
Paolo  N'eroneses,  nineteen  I'oussins,  ten  Claude  Lorraincs.  Of 
the  (icrman,  two  Cranachs,  nine  All>i-eclit  Diu-ers,  two  Jlol- 
heins.  Of  the  Low  Countries,  sixty-two  liuliens,  twenty-two 
Van  l)yckes,  a  IJembrandt,  tifty-three  'i''eniers,til'tyfour  .loliann 
lirughels,  live  N'aii  Eycks,  twenty-three  Snyders.  ())"  the 
Spanish.  f(»rty-six  Murillos,  sixty-four  \'elas(pie/.,  eight  Alonso 
Canos.  eighteen  Juanes,  six  Morales,  tifly-eight  J^iberas,  four- 
teen Zurbarans,  &e.,  itc,  numbers  which  will  serve  to  show  the 
vast  range  emiiraced  b}-  the  galleiT.  Many  of  them  are  aniong 
the  best  works  t)f  ilie  authors.  The  Kafaelles  are  not  surpassed 
out  of  iionie,  except  by  the  Dresden  Madonna,  and  tlie  same 
with  regard  to  Venice  may  be  atlirmed  of  the  Ti/Jans.  •  Lo 
S])asimo  di  Sicilia"  has  been  awarded  a  ])la(e,  perhaps  ^/n  place 
of  honor.  Of  course,  the  verdict  of  the  artistic  world  must  l)e 
right,  but  I  have  never  been  able  to  reconcile  myself  to  it.  1 
have  failed  to  perceive  a  trace  of  divinit}-  in  the  Saviour;  lie 
presents  to  me  rather  the  ajijiearance  of  a  person,  crushed  by 
physical  sutlering,  falling  uikKm-  the  grievous  weight  of  a  heavy 
biP'then.  The  attention  is  w  illidraw  n  iri-esislibly,  as  from  some- 
thing disagreeable,  to  the  Ityslanders,  the  wce})ing  women  and 
the  soldiers.  No  accui'acy  of  drawing,  no  excellence  of  ])or- 
traiture  of  the  subordinate  cliaraclcrs  can  conipeiisale  tor  such 
a  deliciency.  How  dill'erent  the  Ti-aiisligui-ation  I  There  the 
divinity  in  the  Saviour's  face,  enchaining  the  attention,  causes 
ail  defect  of  detail,  all   incongruity  of  comi)t)sition  to  be  forgot- 


THE    ITALIAN    SCHOOL.  Ill 

ten.  The  history  of  this  painting,  ("  Lo  Spasiino,"  )  and  of  its 
haii'-breadtli  escapes  by  flood  and  field,  is  like  a  tale  of  adven- 
ture.  But  Avhatevcr  may  be  said  of  "  Lo  Spasimo,"  the  five 
Eafacllesin  a  row — the  ''Agnus  Dei,"  "La  Perla,"  "La  Madon- 
na del  Pcsee,"  "LaRosa,"  and  "The  Visitation,"  arc  unequalled 
this  side  the  Alps.  "  La  Perla  "  and  the  "  Madonna  del  Pesce," 
in  particular,  may  justly  claim  a  place  after  the  "  Madonna  di 
San  Sisto,"  for  the  beauty  and  purity  of  the  Virgin,  as  Rafaellc 
chose  to  delineate  them,  and  the  artlessness  of  childhood,  the 
sentiment  of  affectionate  respect  have  never  been  more  exquis- 
itely portrayed. 

By  far  the  finest  among  the  numerous  Titians  is  the  eques- 
trian painting  of  the  Emperor  Charles  at  the  battle  of  Miihl- 
berg.  i«i  which  the  Protestant  cause  was  so  nearly  mined.  The 
execution,  as  to  drawing  and  coloring,  is  Avhat  one  inight 
expect  from  the  great  master  in  those  departments,  but  the 
attitude  of  the  Emperor  is  stifle,  uneasy,  constrained,  positively 
awkward,  compared  with  tlie  boundary  freedom  of  the  Velas- 
quez opposite,  and  I  turned  away  in  disappointment.  But  in 
the  appendix  to  the  catalogue  are  given  extracts  from  the  con- 
temporary historians,  which  show  that  during  the  whole  cam- 
paign he  had  been  martyrized  by  the  gout,  and,  in  the  battle 
itself,  resembled  an  embalmed  corpse  or  a  spectre  rather  than 
a  man.  If  sucli  were  the  model  of  Titian,  his  success  has  been 
perfect.  Every  movement,  ever}'  position,  every  feature  be- 
traj'S  the  warrior  Emperor  struggling  against  j^hj-sical  disease 
and  exhaustion — the  triumph  of  unconquerable  will  over  the 
weakness  of  the  body.  It  would  not  only  l)e  the  best  portrait, 
but  the  best  painting  of  the  artist,  and,  in  its  sphere,  inimita- 
ble. Amid  the  number  of  others  by  Titian,  two  are  worthy  of 
especial  remark:  "La  Gloria,"  representing  the  apotheosis  of 
Charles  and  Phiiii»,  and  "  La  Bacanal,"  in  the  Salon.  This  lat- 
ter is  exquisite.  Ariadne,  exhausted  with  grief,  lies  sleeping 
upon  the  grass.  The  vessel  of  the  faithless  Theseus  is  seen 
ploughing  the  waves  in  the  distance.  J'ut  the  dawn  of  joy  is 
breaking;  innumerable  bacchantes  and  nymphs  are  celebrating 
with  dance  and  merriment  the  approach  of  Bacchus,  who  is  to 
console  the  weeping  fair  one,  and  to  inaugurate  the  reign  of 
pleasure  upon  the  earth.  All  this  with  the  richness  peculiar  to 
Titian  and  Correggio. 

The  Guidos  are  numerous  and  much  ]»rais<'d.  but  all  of  that 


112  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SrAMAUnS. 

sentimental,  lack-lustre,  lifeless  aspect,  which  characterizes  his 
paintinjjjs,  with  a  few  rare  exce})tions  The  spociinons  of  the 
vigorous,  healthy  hrushes  of  the  Caracci  and  Donioiiiguino, 
arc  far  superior,  particularly  the  sacrifice  of  Isaac  hy  the  lat- 
ter, which  is  worthy  of  all  commendation.  But  of  the  foreign 
schools,  there  is  nothing  more  heautiful  than  four  landscafjcs 
by  Claude,  all  of  the  same  size,  which  arc  placed  in  the  circular 
room  at  the  end  of  the  gallery.  At  each  succeeding  visit, 
I  remained  more  lirmly  convinced  that  no  artist  had  ever 
equalle<l,  and  none  would  ever  surpass,  these  divine  produc- 
tions. 

The  Dutch  and  Flemisli  schools  have  contributed  more  than 
their  quota,  and  are  pronounced  to  include  many  chc/.^i  iVcvuvrc, 
but  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a  Sonlherner.  unless  a  f)rofes- 
sional  artist,  to  appreciate  at  their  pi-oper  value  the  coarseness 
of  their  o'er  true  copies  of  nature  in  all  her  corpulency,  when 
contrasted  with  the  ideal  of  the  Italian  and  Spanish  schools, 
and  as  my  admiration  was  not  aroused  by  them,  I  shall  leave 
them  to  others  who  have  been  more  fortunate.  Indeed,  rich  as 
the  gallery  is  in  works  of  foreign  artists,  its  ])eculiar  e.Kcellenco 
is  in  the  home  department,  in  which  it  is  unique,  not  only  out 
of  but  in  Sj)ain.  The  best  works  of  Murillo  are  at  Seville,  but 
Velas(piez  can  l)e  seen  in  ^ladrid  alone.  The  few  that  have 
wandered  beyond  the  Pyrenees  are  very  inferior  specimens. 
Each  of  these  sons  of  Seville  has  claims  to  stand  at  the  head 
of  Spaidsh  ai-t.  The  latter  is  more  manly,  vigorous,  a  better 
master  of  men,  possessing  in  an  unequalled  degree  the  j)ower 
of  transferring  to  canvass  the  life  of  his  subjects,  but  entirely 
devoid  of  imagination,  invention,  and  the  higher  style  of  ideal- 
ity. To  the  latter  was  granted  a  transcendent  perception  of 
the  beautiful  in  humanity,  of  that  loveliness  of  the  soul  which 
borders  upon  divinity,  of  :i  purity  soaring  above  the  earth,  and 
a  felicity  of  embodying  his  conceptions,  that  has  rarely  been 
approached.  It  is  ver}-  ditlicult  to  judge  between  two  such 
opposite  characters,  each  being  perfect  in  his  sphere,  and  eveiy 
critic  will  probably  decide  according  to  his  preferences  for  the 
school  at  the  head  of  which  they  respectively  stand. 

The  .Miirillos  ;il  .Madrid  dilVci-  iiiucli  lii  merit.  Some  arc  in 
the  Very  best  style,  others  appear  to  me  far  less  successful,  if 
the  subject  be  ])roj)erly  indicatetl.  (-ertainly  the  Holy  Family 
resembles  a  home  eveniuir  in  a  cottaire  i-ather  than  an  assein- 


THE    MUUIT,LOS. VELASQUEZ.  1 1  8 

blage  of  saints,  though  in  otl>or  respects  it  be  ever  so  fine.  But 
there  are  o'.hers  worthy  a  trip  across  the  ocean.  Can  there  be 
a  gr.mder  tigurc  than  the  .St.  Francis  de  Pauhi'/  Was  ever 
holy  meditation  more  nobly  portrayed  ?  And  did  ever  human 
revery  imagine  a  more  exquisite  idea  tlian  the  ('oncejicion  in 
the  Salon?  The  Magdalen  is  very  dilfcrent  from  what  one 
would  expect;  it  has  none  of  the  beauty  which  seems  unavoid- 
able, when  Murillo  paints  woman,  but  represents  a  real  sinner 
doing  real  penance.  Indeed,  the  one  which  is  marked  as  be- 
longing to  the  school  of  .Murillo.  is  much  more  like  what  one 
might  have  antieipaf '.'d.  All  tlie  cliildren  are  exquisite:  the 
St.  John,  the  Virgin  taught  by  St.  Anna,  the  Infant  Saviour 
and  St.  John  are  among  the  most  satisfactor}-  ])ictiireH  in  the 
gallery.  I  like  the  Crucitixion,  too.  It  is  a  gloomy  subject, 
and  should  be  so  treated,  with  a  dai'k  back  ground,  and  no 
other  figures  to  distract  the  attention.  The  Crucifixions  of 
most  artists,  introducing  a  large  collection  of  persons  with  all 
the  accessories,  generally  shock  one.  They  sink  the  moral 
in  the  physical,  and  convert  this  tremendous  event — which 
rent  the  vail  of  the  temple  in  twain,  and  shook  the  earth  to 
its  centre — into  a  mere  worldly  scene  of  suffering  and  i)unish- 
ment.  By  the  same  reasoning  I  think  it,  therefore,  a  radical 
error  ever  to  paint  the  Descent  from  the  Cross.  Our  (Jod  is 
a  living  God,  not  a  dead  body.  Such  representations  arouse 
nothing  but  adniiration,  whereas  thoso  of  the  Spanish  school 
give  rise  to  very  dilTorent  rafloclions  and  emotions. 

Velasquez  is  the  true  hero  of  the  Museo.  He  cannot  be  seen 
elsewhere  at  all.  Here  he  is  in  his  glory.  His  want  of  ideality 
and  sublimity  has  been  too  frequently  pointed  out  to  need  repe- 
tition, but  he  unites  all  the  other  requisites  of  a  great  artist.  If 
fiiultless  drawing,  strong  coloring,  a  vigorous  hand,  and  an 
unequalled  power  of  making  his  creations  live  and  move  are 
sufficient  to  entitle  an  artist  to  the  first  rank,  his  claim  to  the 
position  must  be  assured.  But  Velasquez  is  a  painter  of  life, 
of  positive  existence  and  action.  Contemplation,  meditation, 
passive,  negative  being,  were  eithcl'  above  his  capacity  or 
beneath  his  attention.  Compare  Titian's  Charles  V  with 
his  equestrian  paintings  of  the  Count  Duke  of  Olivarez,  of 
riiilip  III  and  IMiilip  IV.  Tlie  latter  arc  real,  existing  men 
and  horses.  Don  Balthasar,  galloping  over  the  plain,  is  fault- 
less, inimitable.  I  attempted  to  di.scover  sonic  particular 
9 


114  SPAIN    ANU    THK   SPANIARDS. 

in  which  the  reality  would  have  appeared  diflTcror.tl}-  (and 
nothing  is  eafier  lor  those  who  arc  not  painters,  than  to  point 
out  the  errors  of  those  who  are),  hut  in  vain  ;  bo}*,  horse,  sk}', 
the  arid  Castiilian  earth,  were  rtfleeted  from  nature  as  in  a  mir- 
ror. Jlis  jjortraits  have  the  same  charaeteristics.  The  h)fly 
intelleet«  of  Kafaelle's  Pope  Julius,  and  the  brilliant  coloring 
of  Titian  are  wanting;  hut  who  t-lsc  ever  paintoil  such  a  trucu- 
lent, determined  <tld  Turk  as  his  liarbarossa,  or  such  a  liovern. 
ment  applicant  as  his  Pretendiente,  or  such  soldiers  as  his 
Surrender  of  Breda  ?  His  portrait  of  Don  Balthazar  leanin:^ 
upon  an  arm-chair,  is  equal  to  his  counteri)art  of  the  same  per- 
son on  horseback.  Few  young  princes  have  been  so  favorably 
transmitted  to  posteril}'.  I  confess  to  a  particular  weakness 
fur  this  j)icture.  It  is  one  of  those  that  eternally  Ioo1<  down 
from  the  recesses  of  memory.  The  imaginative  pieces  are  not 
so  hajipy.  If  the  Forge  of  Vulcan  was  rcalh*  so  intended,  it  is 
a  great  lailure^  notwithstanding  the  felicity  of  execution. 
They  are  good  looking,  strongl3'-characterized  blacksnnths, 
but  neither  gods,  demi-gods,  nor  devils.  And  the  Coronation 
(»f  the  Virgin  is  positively  woful.  Nor  are  his  landscapes 
more  to  my  taste,  although  they  rank  high.  In  Sj)aiii,  where 
the  sun  is  seldom  (tbseured,  and  an  ocean  of  light  rolls  ovei*  the 
face  of  Nature,  it  is  dithcult  to  conceive  why  Wlasquez  should 
have  made  her  so  sombre.  In  these  alone  has  he  failed  to 
truth. 

The  Prometheus,  by  Hil>era,  is  a  grand  jiicture,  not  beautiful; 
(liHgiisting.  perhaps,  in  the  lidelity  of  its  details,  and  eminently 
practical;  but.  for  all  that,  it  is  not  the  less  the  woi'k  of  a 
master  hand,  as  much  dislinguislu-d  loi*  strength  as  that  of 
Titian  is  for  elegance.  In  representing  saints  such  as  San 
Pablo,  he  is  naturally  in  his  element.  They  are  fine,  deter- 
mined, venerable  old  men,  but  mortals;  anti,  in  thus  j)ortraying 
them,  he  has  )>robably  come  nearer  to  historic  Iriilli  than  such 
as  present  them  to  us  in  the  garb  of  scmi-angels.  Passing  over 
manv  paintings  by  artists  of  greater  renown,  I  would  mention 
two  which  certainly  nuide  upon  me  a  decided  imj)ressi()n.  The 
one  is  La  Divina  Pastora,  by  Alonzo  Miguel  do  Tobai-,  a  ]nij»il 
and  imitator  of  Murillo;  the  other  is  Saint  Agueda  dying  in 
priK«)n.  This  latter  is  by  no  means  a  ])leasant  subject,  yet  I 
invariably  found  myself  glancing  toward  it  on  entei-i ng  the 
principal  gallery. 


TIIK    ARMEUIA.  115 

Mr.  Ford  Bccms  to  liavc  had  a  personal  cause  of  quarrel  with 
Madrazzo,  the  director,  for  three  or  four  jiages  of  the  ^uidc 
book  are  devoted  to  ahuse-  of  hiiu  and  his  management;  and, 
as  English  and  Americans  generally  derive  their  opinions  from 
this  source,  the  dii-eetors  deemed  it  necessar}'  to  re})ly,  which 
they  have  done  in  a  stinging  note  to  the  preface.  Ilis  whole- 
sale accusation  of  repainting,  his  complaint  that  the  catalogue 
gives  only  the  subjects  and  size  of  the  pictures,  (as  if  a  cata- 
logue was  intended  to  do  more!)  his  bad  Spanish,  and  worse 
criticism,  they  handle  easily-.  But  one  paragraph  puzzled 
them.  The^-  could  not  decide  whether  the  author  were  jesting 
or  in  earnest,  when  he  coolly  asserts  that  the  varied  coloring  of 
the  diffei-ent  Spanish  schools  was  derived  from  and  varied 
aceordiirg  to  their  respective  food.  Thus,  the  Andalusian  olla 
is  the  richest  in  Spain  ;  hence  Murillo  and  Velasquez,  Sevil- 
lians,  used  brown.  Estreniadura  is  famous  for  its  red-peppered 
sausages;  hence  Morales  adopted  brighter  colors.  The  Valcn- 
cians  like  mulberries  ;  hence  the}-  use  ])urple.  "  Localism  is  the 
essence  of  the  Spaniards."  Such  a  criticism  would  ])uzzle  wiser 
doctors  than  the  Academicians.  By  wa}-  of  rejily,  they  pursue 
the  strain  :  The  English  are  great  eaters  of  roast-beef;  hence 
the  partiality  of  the  English  ai'tists  for  red.  The  Flemin<rs  and 
Dutch,  of  butter;  hence  the  predominant  3^ellow.  The  Bo- 
lognese,  of  sausage;  hence  the  coloring  of  Carracci  and  Guide, 
&c.,  &c.  Thus,  Brillat  Savarin  would  seem  to  have  touched 
bottom  in  philosophy  when  he  exclaimed:  ^^ DIs-moi  ce  que  tu 
manges,  et  je  te  dirai  ce  que  tu  es."  The  subsequent  editions  of 
Murray  have  corrected  the  Spanish  and  the  personal  accusation 
of  repainting;  but  this  obnoxious  paragraph,  and  the  other 
criticisms,  arc  retained  as  choice  tit-bits,  giving  the  aiitiiorvery 
much  the  appearance  of  a  bull  in  a  china-shop. 

The  Armeria  Real  is  as  eminent  among  armories  as  the 
Musco  is  among  galleries;  that  of  Dresden  being  the  only  col- 
lection in  Europe  to  boast  a  comparison  in  the  beauty  of  work- 
manshi]),  while  in  historic  interest,  it  is  much  inferior.  There 
are  relics  from  the  remotest  ages  of  modern  Spain,  when  the 
nation  was  contined  to  a  small  corner  of  the  present  kingdo;n. 
and  every  subsequent  period  is  likewise  fitly  represented  by 
swords  and  shields  in  more  or  less  abundance.  Tlicir  former 
owners  were,  for  the  most  part,  personages  of  world-wide 
renown;  whereas,  the  collections  of  Dresden  and  the  Tower  at 


IIG  SPAIN    AND    Till.    M'AMAIIDS. 

Londf>n  arc  of  mere  local  importance,  few  English  warriors 
excejit  Marlli<>roii^l),  Wellini^ton.  and  Xolsoii,  beinij  known  out 
of  the  Islands,  or  the  United  States.  The  arran<j^ement  is 
hajtpy.  The  smaller  articles  are  enclosed  in  cases  a<j;ainst  the 
wall,  while  the  centre  is  occupied  h}-  a  <louhle  row,  faced  by 
the  flank  of  knights  on  horseback,  with  a  few  pieces  of  beauti- 
fully ornamenteil  artillery  interspersed  amoni;  them,  and 
numerous  bannei-s  hanginif  from  the  ceiling  above,  so  that  the 
appearance  of  reality  is  well  sustained.  The  full  suits  of  armor 
date  mostl}'  from  the  period  when  Spain  controlled  the  artists 
of  Italy  and  Germany,  for  few  of  them  bear  the  impress  of 
native  workmen;  but  the  colleetioii  of  swords  is  thoroughly 
Spanish,  and  of  course  unrivalled  in  the  world.  Most  of  the 
great  artists  are  represented,  particularly  Julian  del  Roy,  the 
armorer  of  Boabdil,  and  a  converted  Moor,  the  most  famous  of 
them  all,  whose  brand  of  the  Perillo,  or  I;ittlc  Dog,  is  well 
known,  though  few  have  ever  seen  it  except  here.  There  are 
also  specimens  of  Miguel  Cantcro,  of  Sahagun,  Ruiz,  Martinez, 
many  of  wliom  belonged  to  families  that  transmitted  their  skill 
from  father  to  son,  and  others  of  almost  equal  celebrity.  When 
the  War  of  Independence  commenced  in  1808,  the  patriots 
broke  into  the  armory  for  weapons  to  use  against  the  French, 
antl  many  a  Toledo  of  the  first  temper  did  renewed  service  in 
defending  the  soil  of  the  Peninsula  against  invasion;  but  the 
collection  was  thereby  despoiled  of  a  considerable  portion  of 
its  treasures.  What  remains  has  been  placed  in  excellent 
order,  and  is  well  preserved.  It  is  one  of  the  best  places  in 
Spain  to  study  or  refresh  one's  biographical  history. 

The  oldest  piece  is  a  rusty  short  sword,  covered  with  venera- 
ble petrifaction,  which  was  found  in  the  Tagus.  It  was  sup- 
j)0sed  to  have  been  dropped  thci-e  in  a  battle  between  Hannibal 
and  the  Carpentarii — rather  a  far-fetched  conclusion,  when  the 
slight  foundation  for  this  opinion  is  considered.  Then  comes  a 
l)ridle-bit  picked  up  on  an  old  field  of  battle  in  Andalusia,  and 
said  to  have  belonged  to  Wamba,  the  Gothic  king.  Perhaps,  it 
v/ould  be  better  to  remain  content  with  the  assurance  that  it  is 
o.''  the  (Jothic  age,  which  is  confidently  asserted  by  thos(i  in 
authority.  About  the  next  thei-e  is  more  certainty — the  sword 
of  Don  Pelayo,  whose  authenticity  is  proven  as  well  as  such 
ancient  relies  can  be  proven.  It  is  simple  and  Gothic  in  form, 
and  was  pi^served  down   to  the   middle  of  the  last  cciitui'}-  in 


TTIi".    ARMF.RIA.  117 

the  sanctuary  of  Cavadonga,  as  bis  sword.  In  antiquit}'  and 
historic  interest,  it  surpasses  anything  of  the  kind  in  Europe, 
for  with  the  strokes  of  this  bhido  were  hud  the  foundations  of 
the  great  Spanish  nionarchy,  whicli,  for  good  or  evil,  has  exer- 
cised such  an  immense  inf1ucnc;e  upon  tlie  workh  Next  in  chro- 
nological order  are  the  Dui-indana  of  Orlando,  the  Paladin  of 
Charlemagne,  and  the  sword  of  his  conqueror  at  the  battle  of 
Eoncesvallcs — Bernardo  del  Carpio — who  occupies  so  large  a 
space  in  the  old  ballads.  As  tlie  existence  of  the  two  heroes 
themselves  has  been  doubted,  the  aiithenticity  of  their  swords 
will  scarcely  be  admitted.  Tlie  former  is  supposed  to  be  as  old 
as  the  twelth  centur}-.  Of  the  latter  it  is  affirmed  that  tb.c 
Emperor  Charles  took  it  away  from  the  convent  of  Sta.  Maria 
de  Aguilar,  where  it  had  been  }u-eserved  as  a  relic  of  its  master. 
Then  come  the  war  saddle  and  the  famous  sword — La  Colada — 
of  the  Cid,  which  tbei-e  is  no  good  reasoning  for  questioning, 
except  the  general  one  ol'  a  want  of  belief  Like  the  sword  of 
Pclayo,  they  w-ei-e  cai-efully  preserved  at  a  time  when  the  rage 
for  mere  antiquities  had  not  commenced,  and  when  nothing 
was  deemed  worthy  of  such  care,  unless  there  was  connected 
therewith  an  idea  of  revci-ence.  In  those  times,  therefore,  the 
fact  of  such  preservation  with  and  on  account  of  the  accompa- 
nying tradition,  is  reasoujibly  good  proof  of  the  authenticity  of 
the  object. 

Leaving  the  heroic  age.  there  are  the  weapons  of  St.  Ferdi- 
nand and  Jaime  el  Conquistador,  both  as  true  heroes  as  ever 
drew  a  sw^ord.  Then  the  armor  of  Don  Alonzo  V;  the  partisan 
of  Don  Pedro,  the  cruel ;  the  swords  of  Suero  de  Quiilones,  tl.c 
hero  of  the  Paso  Ilenroso,  so  famous  in  the  histor}-  of  chivalry; 
of  the  Ilaros;  of  the  Marquis  of  Santillana  ;  the  armor  of  Inigo 
Fernandez  de  Velasco,  the  constable  of  ('aslile;  and  numerous 
others  down  to  the  reign  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  at  tlie 
commencement  of  modern  history.  The  swords  of  the  Catho- 
lic sovereigns  are  preserved,  the  latter  beai-ing  quite  a  bellig- 
erent motto,  "  Dcsco  sirmprc  (/era."  With  them  are  the  swords 
and  armor  of  their  great  chieftains,  of  Luis  llurtado  de  Mcn- 
doza,  second  Marquis  of  Mondejar,  and  third  Count  of  Tendilla, 
who  was  made  Governor  and  Ca])tain  Ceneral  of  Granada,  one 
of  their  most  distinguished  Generals;  of  the  Count  of  Alta- 
mira;  of  the  proud  Benaventc;  of  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega,  "  he 
who  slew  the  Moor;"  and.  lastly,  of  the  great  captain,  Gonsalvo 


lis  SPAIN    AM)    TllK    SrA MAUDS. 

(le  Cordova.  Tiie  last,  fi-oin  the  in.scri])tioii  upon  it,  was  a 
Bword  of  honor,  and  is  used  still  on  occasions  of  state — such  as 
iaUin<;  the  oath  at  the  conimcnconiont  of  a  new  roigii.  when  it 
is  hurnc  l)y  the  head  of  the  Vclasto  family,  as  inhoritoi-s  of  the 
Countship  of  Oropesa.  It  is  also  worthily  used  in  the  cere- 
mony of  conferrinii;  knii^hthood. 

The  succecdin<f  ai^c  of  Charles  and  l^liilij)  includes  a  much 
greater  number,  and  the  woi-kniansliip  o!"  the  suits  of  arnioi"  is 
more  ck\i,Mnt,  as  they  proceeded  from  the  rii-st  artists  of  Ital3% 
German}-  and  tiie  Low  Countries.  Of  Cliarles,  himself,  they 
ari'  numeiMUs;  two  of  them  l)eing-  particularly  fine.  There  are 
two  other  relics  which  give  us  an  insight  into  his  camjiaigning 
life — tlie  one  his  iron  camj)aigning  service,  the  other  his  litter 
for  being  transported  about  when  alHicted  with  the  gout,  which 
did  not  justify  him  in  neglecting  the  aflPairs  of  war  and  politics. 
They  were  evidently  intended  for  practical  use,  and  are  of  the 
Kiinplest  description.  The  armor  of  Philip,  if  anything,  sur- 
jiasses  that  of  Charles  in  elegance  of  finish.  Most  of  the  great 
men  wJio  illustrated  their  reigns  are  also  represented.  Juan 
Arias  de  Avila,  Count  of  Puilon-rostro,  and  .luan  de  Padilla, 
the  two  opposing  leaders  on  opposite  sides  of  the  war  of  the 
Communeros;  Pedro  Arias  de  Avila,  brother  of  the  Count  of 
l^inon-rostro,  and  himself  a  great  warrior;  the  Constable  of 
Bourbon;  the  Duke  of  Escalona,  whose  noble  refusal  to  receive 
the  traitor  int(j  his  house,  has  made  him  the  historical  repre- 
sentative of  Castillian  loyalty;  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega,  the  poet; 
the  learned  and  accomplished  Andres  Rev  de  Artieda,  who  was 
wounded  at  the  I)attle  of  Le])anto,  a  worthy  companion  of  Cer- 
vantes in  letters  and  in  arms;  Alonzo  de  Cespedes,  a  w'arrior 
distinguishetl  for  his  strength  as  well  as  skill.  lie,  with  Eey 
de  Artieda  and  eight  othei's.  swam  the  l^^lbe  witli  theii-  swoi-ds 
in  their  mouths,  to  capture  son^e  boats  belonging  to  the  enemy. 
iris  feat  of  taking  the  gate  of  Toledo  off  its  hinges,  when  re- 
fused admittance,  recalls  Sampson  of  old,  while  his  gallantry, 
in  handing  the  Cathedral  fount  of  holy  water  to  a  iiidy,  who, 
owing  to  the  press,  was  not  able  to  approach,  surpassed,  as 
well  in  strength  as  courtes}-,  the  conduct  of  Augustus,  the 
strong,  of  Saxony.  Diego  Garcia  de  Paredes,  the  Sampson  of 
Kstremadura,  was  renowned  for  a  similar  feat.  The  full  weight 
of  their  arms  fell  repeatedly  upon  the  enemies  of  Spain.  The 
famous  Marquis  of  Pescara  and  his  nephew,  Alfonso  de  Avalos, 


THE    ARMERIA.  119 

arc  liore  ;  Pedro  Fernandez  de  Cordova,  Marquis  of  Pricgo  ; 
Diego  Hurtado  de  Mendoza,  the  historian;  Juan  de  Urbina; 
Alvaro  de  Sande;  the  figliting  Bishop  of  Acuiia ;  Sanclio  Da- 
vila,  the  thunderbolt  of  war,  one  of  those  who  swam  the  Elbe, 
sword  in  mouth ;  Antonio  de  Le'va,  the  hero  of  tlie  battle  of 
Pavia,  who,  from  humble  origin,  rose  to  be  the  first  General  of 
his  age,  and  to  count  on  his  muster  roll  the  name  of  Charles 
of  Ghent;  Juan  de  Aldana,  who  received  the  sword  of  Francis  I 
at  Pavia;  the  incorrujitible  Hernando  de  Alarcon,  wlio  led  the 
vanguard  in  the  battle  of  Pavia,  who  saved  Charles  at  Tunis, 
and  to  whom  were  successively  confided  the  custody  of  Francis 
and  Pope  Clement;  Alejandro  Farnese,  Duke  of  Parma;  the 
l)uke  of  Alva,  the  Elector  of  Saxony,  whose  defeat  at  Mlihl- 
berg,  seemed  to  seal  the  fate  of  the  Reformation  ;  Don  Juan  de 
Austria,  the  hero  of  Lepanto ;  the  great  Admiral  Alvaro  de 
Bazau,  Marquis  of  Sta.  Cruz,  who  projected  and  was  preparing 
the  invincible  Armada  at  the  time  of  his  death;  and  Pedro 
Mendez  de  Aviles,  the  conqueror  of  Florida.  It  seemed  as 
though  Philip  had  been  truly  contending  against  the  heavens. 
The  best  Admirals  of  Sjiain,  the  Marquis  of  Santa  Cruz,  Men- 
dez de  Aviles,  the  Duke  of  Poliano,  Davila,  who  had  all  enjoyed 
a  long  experience  upon  the  ocean,  died  in  succession,  and  the 
command  fell  into  the  incompetent  hands  of  the  Duke  of  Me- 
dina Sidouia.  Had  Sta.  Cruz  survived,  the  result  of  the  expe- 
dition might  have  been  different,  and  Elizabeth,  reeking  Avith 
the  blood  of  Mary  of  Scots,  and  hosts  of  innocent  sufferers  of 
every  faith,  martyrs  to  her  vanity  or  fear,  might  have  fallen, 
with  but  little  regret,  so  far  as  she  was  individualh"  concerned. 
The  armor  of  Columbus,  and  the  swords  of  Cortes  and  Pizarro 
carry  ns  back  to  the  early  days  of  our  own  continent.  The 
latter  was  lent  to  Downie,  during  the  War  of  Inde]iendence,  by 
the  Marques  de  la  Conquista,  the  representative  of  the  Con- 
queror, in  whose  hands  it  was  not  disgraced,  though,  during  his 
lifetime,  he  eluded  every  attempt  of  the  owner  to  recover  pos- 
session of  it. 

The  Armeria  contains  likewise  trophies  of  the  conquered. 
The  original  sword  of  Francis  I  was  removed  b}'  the  French, 
but  an  exact  cop}'  supplies  its  place.  Boabdil,  Ali  Pacha,  the 
Turkish  commander  at  Lepanto,  his  son.  and  various  others 
have  contributed.  There  arc  also  many  most  elegant  shields 
unconnected  with  historical  events,  and  worthy  of  the  skill  of 


IJO  SPAIN    AM)    THE    .Sl'AMAIlDS. 

Cellini,  particularly  one  represent iii:^  llerciilos  in  tlic  act  ol" 
reniovini^  his  Pillars  to  a  boat  in  which  is  the  Emperor  Charles, 
standanl  in  hand,  ami  crowned  bv  Victory.  At  the  j)row 
stands  Fame,  with  the  motto,  "Plus  Ultra."  Another  shield 
rejiresents  the  Rape  ol'  the  Sabincs.  Another.  Petrarch's  Tri- 
umph (»r  liove.  Another,  the  Shield  of  Minerva.  Another,  a 
Battle  Scene  near  C'arthaj^e  —  all  of  exquisite  workMianslii|». 
The  collection  of  implements  of  war  of  modern  times,  and 
from  the  middle  a/jjes,  is  very  line — as  Spain  produced  eminent 
gunsmiths,  and  her  iron  was  peculiarl}'  suited  for  that  purjjose. 
The  display  of  Moorish  weapons  is  unique.  In  addition,  there 
is  a  capital  index  to  these  numerous  treasures  in  the  catalogue, 
so  that  the  Armeria  lical  is  one  of  the  satisfactory  exhibitions 
'-of  Europe,  and  affords  as  much  pleasure  to  the  student  as  to 
the  mere  sight-seer.  Spain  was  formerl}'  as  celebrated  for  its 
ai'tillcr}',  particularl}'  its  brass  pieces,  as  for  its  swords.  The 
foundry  at  Seville  stood  deservedly  among  the  tirst  in  tlie 
world.  This  is  still  the  favorite  branch  of  the  service,  and 
raid\S  very  high — but  the  guns  themselves  no  longer  enjoy 
their  pre-eminence,  nor  is  there  any  collection  in  ^[adrid  to 
equal  that  of  Paris. 

The  galleries,  the  Armeria,  the  Prado,  and  the  Puerta  del 
Sol,  are  the  principal  attractions  in  Madrid  for  a  stranger. 
But  there  is  some  jtlcasure  to  l>e  dci-ivod  from  merely  saunter- 
ing about  and  catching  the  living  manners  as  they  rise. 
For  my  own  part,  I  took  great  interest  in  witnessing  the 
dcjjarture  ol'  the  diligences.  One  started  from  the  hotel  where 
I  was  in  the  habit  of  dining.  Though  the  rage  for  locomotion 
has  much  increased  in  Spain,  it  has  not  3'et  become  an  otl'-liand 
business  as  with  us.  They  no  longer  tliink  it  necessary  to 
make  their  wills,  and  bid  an  eternal  adieu  to  all  relatives  and 
friends  when  starting  on  a  journey  to  Soria  or  Burgos;  but  an 
expedition  of  the  kind  continues  to  make  a  sensation,  and  it  is 
a  ]K)lnt  in  Spani.sh  courtes}*  to  meet  a  friend  some  distance 
without  the  walls  on  his  arrival,  and  to  accorapan}'  him  a  lew 
miles  on  parting.  The  leave-taking  now  occurs  at  the  dili- 
gence ofiice.  Such  benedictions  and  recommendations!  Such 
kissings  on  both  cheeks !  And  what  a  fine  opportunity  of 
investigating  the  nature  of  this  electrifying  operation,  and 
arranging  the  various  species  and  genera  into  a  science ! 
There  is  the  stage  kiss,  a  mutual  placing  of  the  head   of  the 


TIIK    i^TIUil'.T    SCENES.  121 

one  over  the  shouldci"  of  the  othoi",  as  mehuicliol}'  horses  hang 
theirs  over  a  fence.  Tlien  there  is  the  foi-nial  kiss  of  friend- 
ship, a  verj-  respcctahlo  and  well  regulated  performance.  Then 
comes  the  edifying  kiss  of  relationship  to  elderly  aunts  and 
cousins;  then  the  kiss  of  affection,  more  to  the  j^oint;  and,  last 
of  all,  the  dearest  hoon  vouchsafe(l  hy  Heaven  to  man,  the  kiss 
of  love  !  This  alone  escaped  the  wreck  of  primeval  bliss,  and, 
yo  gods !  how  exquisite  must  have  heen  the  garden  whose 
every  tree  produced  such  fruit!  I  have  noticed  one  peculiarity 
about  these  scenes;  that  after  the  dejiarture  of  the  diligence, 
the  prettiest  one  of  the  circle  of  abandoned  and  desolate 
friends  Avas  always  kissed  over  again  by  the  rest.  i;ntil  an 
inflammable  bystander  would  be  disjjosed  to  cry  out,  "  Xo 
more  of  that,  an'  thou  lovest  me  !"  What  could  have  been 
the  reason  of  so  strange  a  proceeding?  Arc  they  always  the 
ones  that  stand  most  in  need  of  consolation  ?  or  does  this 
belong  to  the  class  of  gentle  mei'cies  doubl}'  blessed,  blessing 
the  giver  as  much  as  the  taker?  The  more  experienced  must 
answer  the  question.  Then,  too,  the  society  of  the  strangers 
collected  in  Madrid  is  varied  and  agreeable.  You  get  used 
to  tiic  eternal  defamation  that  exudes  through  the  pores  of 
the  body  social.  The  clubs  and  reading-rooms  have  increased 
in  number  and  res])ectability.  There  is  some  relief  from  the 
dreadful  ennui  which  used  to  fall  upon  the  visitor  after  ex- 
hausting the  novelty  of  the  scene,  so  that  ujion  the  whole,  I 
can  imagine  how  a  person,  who  had  never  seen  Andalusia,  or 
who  could  forget  its  proximity,  might  ])ass  his  time  quite 
agreeably  in  lladrid,  the  pride  of  Spain  and  the  joy  of  the 
human   race. 


rn.M'TKR    VIT. 

T  O  I.  ]']  I)  (). 

A]ipr<)ftcli  to  the  City — Moorish  Aspect — Sta.  Cruz  and  the  Alcaz.ar — The  Cathedral 
—  The  .Aluzarahs  —  The  Funda  —  Padilia.  and  the  Comuncros  —  Esoalona — The 
Synairogm'S — Jews  in  Spain  —  San  Juan  de  los  Reyes — Don  Julian  and  la  Cava 
— Manufactory  of  Arms — Beautiful  View  of  the  Cit}' — (General. 

It  woiilil  never  do  to  leave  Madrid  witliout  revisitiiii:;  the 
Fortress-city  of  Toledo.  So,  one  liot  luoriiing,  an  acquaintance 
and  myself  look  our  places  in  the  cary,  Avhich  have  now  ren- 
dei'ed  the  journey  of  easy  accomplishment.  The  oasis  of  Aran- 
juez.  with  its  dense  foliage  and  shady  walks,  tempted  us  sorely 
after  the  arid,  seethinfij,  roasting  country  through  which  we 
ha<l  ])asscd.  Hut  we  made  no  halt,  and  continued  on  our  way 
down  the  river.  The  cars  were  ver}'  commodious,  and  were 
furnished  with  a  double  roof  that  aided  materially  in  keeping 
off  the  heat  of  the  sun's  rays.  Nor  were  wo  inconvenienced  by 
dust  or  smoke.  An  indistinct  mass,  blocking  up  the  valley  of 
the  Tagus,  soon  announced  the  proximity  of  the  capital  of  the 
Goths.  We  coursed  down  tlu'  jiretty  Vega,  closely  hemmed  in 
on  either  side  by  the  naked  lulls,  for  a  half  hour  longer,  and 
landed  at  the  station  outside  of  the  walls.  The  appearance  of 
Toledo  is  noble.  The  river,  making  a  semi-circular  curve  to  the 
left  in  order  to  pass  the  hill,  or  rather  immense  rock  npon 
which  it  is  situate,  bursts  through  the  Sici-ra  with  the  fury  of  a 
fretted  and  impatient  giant;  while,  upon  the  Madrid  side,  the 
summit  is  crowned  l)y  the  huge  Alcazar,  frowning  perpendicu- 
larly down  upon  the  roaring  Tagus,  and  presenting  a  grand 
])oint  of  view  foi"  miles  distant.  The  gailj'  dressed  zagal,  who, 
in  response  to  our  hints,  vowed  that  he  never  had  been  and 
never  expected  to  be  in  love,  l)ut  had  arrayed  himself  so  stun- 
ningly merely  for  general  effect,  di-ovc  us  at  half  speed  along 
the  Paseo,  past  the  statue  of  Wamba,  over  the  bridge  of  Alcan- 


THE    STA.    CRUZ.  12^ 

tara,  one  of  those  structuros  which  drive  the  artist  wild,  and 
up  by  zig-zags  into  the  (--ity,  making  tlie  most  wonderrul  iiim- 
ings  of  sharp  corners  in  streets  scarcely  wider  than  the  dili- 
gence, and  deposited  us  safely  at  the  Posada. 

Breakfast  despatched,  the  guide  was  summoned  —  Cabeza  (a 
head)  by  name.  lie  was  a  spare  personage,  fifty-one  years  of 
age,  somewhat  battered,  and  the  worse  for  wear.  Had  been  a 
Carlist  soldier;  on  the  downfiill  of  that  part}'',  an  exile  in 
France.  Six  Avounds  in  the  head,  two  balls  in  the  leg,  and  one 
arm  shattered,  were  the  sole  rewards  of  his  long  service. — quite 
enough  for  one  man.  On  our  Avay  to  the  Santa  Cruz,  under  his 
guidance,  we  passed  through  the  City  S(piare,  an  irregular,  open 
space,  still  called  the  Zocodover,  as  Moorish  in  appearance  as  in 
name.  It  was  the  time  of  the  Fi'riri,  and  but  for  our  own  cos- 
tume, we  might  almost  have  fancied  ourselves  in  the  age  of  one 
of  the  Abd-er-Rahmans.  To  visit  the  Santa  Cruz  and  the 
Alcazar,  it  was  necessary  to  call  upon  the  Colonel,  as  this  Avas 
not  the  regular  day,  so  we  first  proceeded  to  headquartei'S.  lie 
Avas  very  courteous,  but  had  one  of  those  severe,  unsjnupa- 
thizing  military  faces  Avhich  Avould  cause  any  one  indicted  for 
treason  to  challenge  him  incontinentl3\  The  staff  in  the  ante- 
chamber Avere  a  much  more  jovial  set.  The  hospital  of  Santa 
Cruz,  built  by  one  of  the  Mendozas,  is,  notwithstanding  the 
neglect  of  centuries,  still  a  remarkably  beautiful  structure. 
The  entrance  and  the  first  Patio  are  in  the  finest  style.  One 
may  travel  far  and  near,  and  see  little  to  surpass  this  court.  I 
knoAv  nothing  north  of  Andalusia  equal  to  it.  It  has  been 
brushed  up  of  late  for  the  purposes  of  the  Military  School,  and 
the  process  Avas  still  going  on  Avith  manifest  advantage.  The 
second  Patio,  though  large,  is  much  more  simple.  Workmen 
Avere  engaged  in  cutting  up  the  church,  one  arm  of  the  cross 
being  quite  sutficient  for  the  necessities  of  this  irreligious  age. 
Situate  upon  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  the  prospect  must  be 
fine,  and  particularly  the  view  iVom  AvindoAVS  of  the  comcdor 
or  dining-room,  down  into  the  valley  of  the  Tagus,  and  over 
the  country  bej'ond,  Avhich  is  indeed  superb.  The  chief  cook 
insisted  upon  our  visiting  his  department,  also,  and  looking 
into  the  huge  i)Ots  in  Avhich  his  dinner  Avas  boiling.  Faithful  to 
my  duty  as  a  traveller,  I  report  that  the  pots  Avere  of  good 
size,  and  the  odor  of  the  dinner  agreeable  at  a  distance.  No 
extra  c!i:u-go  was  made  for  this  enjoyment. 


124  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPAMAUDS. 

The  Alcazar  is  situate  upon  the  very  summit  of  the  Toledo 
rock,  overtopping  the  whole  cit}'.  It  is  an  immense  fortress 
pahice,  or,  rather,  the  remains  of  one,  in  the  solid  style  of  the 
old  Spanish  architecture,  the  greater  ])art  dating  from  the  time 
pf  Charles  and  Philip,  though  the  foundations  were  laid  figura- 
tively, and  perhaps  actually,  in  the  reign  of  King  Wamba.  At 
present,  little  survives  except  the  nako<l  slicll.  which  frowns 
desolately  over  the  walls  of  rock  tlial  hem  in  the  loainiiig  river. 
The  interior  was  blown  up  by  the  iMiglish  or  Portuguese, 
or,  perhaps,  both,  fired  by  the  French,  and  desecrated  by  a 
thousand  im])ious  hands.  From  its  parapet  you  see  the 
situation  of  Toledo.  The  Sierra  here  crosses  the  valley  of 
the  Tagus,  which  winds  around  the  city  on  your  right  hand  as 
you  look  up  the  stream,  making  for  itself  a  precipitous  passage 
through  the  ridge.  The  rock  on  which  the  city  stands  seems 
to  be  an  independent  hill,  being  thus  separated  by  the  river  on 
the  right,  and  a  depression  neai'ly  to  the  level  of  the  plain  on 
the  left.  But,  in  truth,  it  is  a  part  of  the  Sierra  itself,  and, 
owing  to  its  magnificent  position — conmiauding  the  communica- 
tion between  the  centre  and  the  west  of  Spain — was  alw:iys  a 
post  of  the  first  rank  of  importance.  The  Goths  made  Toledo 
their  capital,  and  it  is  full  of  recollections  of  the  age  previous 
to  the  conquest  b}-  the  Saracens.  "With  them,  in  turn,  it  was  a 
place  of  influence;  and  its  histor}'  during  this  period  is  of  the 
greater  interest,  because  of  the  number  of  Christians  who 
remained  under  the  Mohammedan  rule,  enjoying  a  liberty  of 
conscience  that  puts  contemporaneous  Phirope  to  the  blush. 
Under  Alfonso  VI,  it  again  became  of  imporUuicc;  but,  since 
the  days  of  the  Emperor  Charles,  Toledo  has  remained  in 
a  state  of  petrifaction,  as  if  preserved  for  the  benefit  of  travel- 
lers. You  see  a  finished  city  precisely  as  it  was  three  ceniui-ios 
ago,  a  mediicval  Pomj^eii  ;  for  I  doubt  much  whether  a  single 
building  has  been  pulled  down  or  built  up  in  all  that  time.  The 
prospect  to  the  south-west  is  quite  equal  to  that  toward  the 
north.  The  immense  Cathedral  stands  nobly  in  the  ibrcground, 
its  spire  piercing  the  heavens,  and  all  its  ornaments  glittering 
in  the  blaze  of  a  Castile  sun.  Beyond  and  around  lay  the  city, 
and  through  the  fertile  Vega  flowed  the  golden  Tagus,  hasten- 
ing to  the  orange  groves  of  Lisbon.  After  taking  a  glance  at 
the  extensive  stables,  which,  as  usual,  are  under  ground,  we 
descended  into  the  town  on   our  way  to  the  Cathedral.     The 


THE    CATIIKDTIAL. THE    GOTHS.  1_0 

streets  were  narrow  and  stecj),  made  for  a  horseback  people ; 
the  houses  small,  and  without  windows  on  the  outside, — a  regu- 
lar Morer'ia.  In  a  great  niau}^  were  yet  visible  the  wooden 
lintels,  placed  over  the  entrance  In'  the  Moors,  as  the  carved 
inscriptions  testily,  't'li'v^y  have  survived  the  vicissitudes  of 
perhnjis  a  thousand  years;  for  the  air  of  Spain  is  so  ])ure  that 
some  kinds  of  Avood  last  almost  forever.  Everything-  was 
ancient.  A  little  cafe,  a  ti-apezoidal  court  with  an  awning 
di-awn  over  it,  into  Avliicb  we  stepped  to  refresh,  seemed  to  have 
been  just  disinterred;  though  I  doubt  whether  the  Moors  had 
so  cooling  a  drink  as  agraz  wherewith  to  lower  the  temperature 
of  their  parched  bodies. 

We  soon  entered  the  Cathedral,  which,  in  every  point  of 
view,  is  a  magnificent  editice.  The  richness  of  ornament  is 
astonishing,  and  not  inappropriate,  with  the  exception  of  the 
immense,  confused,  involuted,  and  intricate  marble  work  be- 
hind the  rctablo  or  the  tras-olfar.  The  general  eifect  even  of 
this  is  good  when  seen  in  a  certain  light.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  most  of  the  valuables  were  seci"eted  during  the  War  of 
Independence,  otherwise  modern  travellers  would  hav(>  faint 
opportunity  of  admiring  them.  The  chapels  are  full  of  curiosi- 
ties and  interesting  historical  toml)s,  but  I  pass  them  by,  as 
once  commencing  one  could  scarcely  know  where  to  stop. 
One  of  them,  however,  the  ]\ruzarabic,  deserves  more  particular 
mention. 

The  history  of  the  Spanish  Church,  if  impartially  written, 
would  be  the  most  interesting  of  Christendom,  because  from 
its  commencement,  the  prelates,  ownng  to  their  superior  en- 
lightenment, enjoyed  a  respect  and  an  influence  in  political  and 
social  affairs  which  were  by  no  means  yielded  to  them  elsewhere. 
Under  the  Goths,  they  were  the  depositaries  of  civilization. 
Hallam  turns  away  from  the  historj'  of  tlie  Goths  with  a 
contemptuous  sneer,  simply  saying  that  the  annals  of  barbar- 
ians are  unworthy  of  investigation.  But  this  is  an  astonishing 
misconception,  for  of  all  the  northern  nations,  the  Goths  be- 
came the  soonest  civilized,  and  partly  for  the  very  reason  that 
they  did  adopt,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  civil  and  canon  law. 
Being  the  first  of  the  barbarian  tribes  that  overran  the  Roman 
Empire,  their  name  and  that  of  the  Vandals  were  perpetuated 
as  synonymous  with  barbarity  and  desecration.  Vvhen  their 
successors  appeared  upon  the  stage,  the  worM  had  grown  used 


12G  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    srANIARDS. 

to  8uch  excesses,  nnd  they  no  Ioniser  provoked  those  fierce 
(lenunciations.  They  had  the  fiirtiier  mislortune  of  iiicnrring 
the  unuthemiis  of  the  fsiithful  by  their  obstinate  adherence  to 
the  doctrines  of  the  Arian  lieres}'.  Yet,  historians  have  vied 
with  eacli  other  in  repeating  these  maledictions,  without  stop- 
ping to  institute  a  comparison  or  to  investigate  the  propriety 
of  this  odious  pre-eminence.  Certainly  they  were  far  superior 
to  the  contemporaneous  Franks  and  Anglo-Saxons.  The  Span- 
ish prelates  seem  to  have  been  always  influenced,  both  under 
the  (Joths,  and,  subsequently,  by  the  prevailing  trait  in  the 
national  character — an  unwillingness  to  submit  to  foreign  do- 
jnination,  and  refused  to  yield  more  than  a  nominal  supremacy 
to  the  I'ope.  Under  the  dominion  of  the  Saritcens,  the  bond 
uniting  them  with  Uomc  became  weaker  still.  The  ("aliplis  of 
Cordoba  even  ])resented  the  bishops.  Upon  the  conquest  of 
Toledo,  the  Mohammedans,  who  were  strangers  to  the  (Chris- 
tian doctrine  of  religious  intolerance,  granted  the  usual  terms 
to  the  vanquished,  that  is,  a  certain  number  of  churches  (six 
in  this  case:  St.  Luke,  St.  Sebastian,  St.  Mark,  St.  Torcad,  Sta. 
Olalla,  and  Stas.  Justa  and  Rutina)  were  set  apart  i<»r  their 
worship.  In  addition,  they  were  granted  an  Alcalde,  who  dis- 
j)ensed  justice  among  them  according  to  the  old  Cothic  Fuero 
.luzgo.  Tiic  same  sort  of  polit}'  is  still  preserved  among 
Oriental  nations,  particularly  with  regartl  to  foreign  consuls. 
These  subject  C/hristians  were  styled  by  the  conquerors  Muza- 
rabs,  which  was  strangely  enough  derived  by  philologists,  iVom 
mixti  arabes,  a  derivation  that  no  Arabic  scholar  would  have 
made,  for  the  Arabs  were  as  ignorant  of  Latin  as  tlie  Latins  of 
Arabic.  The  inhabitants  of  Arabia  have  alwa3-s  been  distin- 
guished b^'  their  pride  of  descent  and  taste  for  genealogy,  not 
only  of  horses  but  of  men,  and  their  over  copious  language 
lends  itself  to  the  expression  of  minute  shades  of  difference. 
The  original  inhabitants  of  the  desert,  the  descendants  of  Jvah- 
tan,  the  Arab  al  Arabi,  never  admitted  an  equality  with  even 
the  descendants  of  Ishmael,  who  were  distinguished  l)y  some 
modification  of  the  word  Arab,  applicable  to  such  as  became 
Aralis  subsequently.  It  is  nuich  more  reasonable,  thei-efore,  to 
suppose  the  word  Miizarab  to  be  a  corruption  of  Mostarab, 
meaning  an  imitator  of  the  Arabs.  Mr.  Ford  attributes  this 
correction  to  Gyangos,  but  Gyangos  makes  no  such  claim,  and 
Casiri  had  pointed  out  the  true  derivation  long  before.     After 


THE    MUZARABIC    RITUAL.  127 

the  reconquost,  the  Alcalde  of  the  Muzarabs  continued  to  judge 
the  citizens  of  Toledo  according  to  the  Fuero  Juzgo;  the  other 
Christians  were  rnlctl  bv  the  Alcalde  de  los  Castellanos,  accord- 
ing to  the  laws  of  old  Castile,  which,  of  itself,  would  prove  who 
the  Muzarabs  were.  They  retained  also  the  (fothic  Liturgy  of 
San  Isidore  in  its  integrity.  After  the  reconquest,  the  French 
wife  of  Alfonso  and  the  Archbishop,  likewise  a  Frenchman, 
persuaded  him  to  conform  to  the  general  practice  of  Christen- 
dom, and  to  abolish,  in  Toledo,  as  he  had  done  elsewhere  in 
Castile,  this  relic  of  ancient  days,  but  the  Toledans  rose  in 
arms,  and  it  was  agreed,  in  accordance  with  the  spirit  of  the 
age,  to  refer  the  question  to  the  arbitrament  of  the  duel.  T^n- 
fortunately,  Juan  Ruiz  de  las  Matanzas,  the  champion  of  the 
Muzarabic  ritual,  was  victorious.  The  trial  by  fire  was  then 
appealed  to  with  like  success.  The  obnoxious  Avork  of  the 
Goths  came  out  unscathed.  The  exultation  of  the  Spaniards 
was  boundless,  but  the  ultimate  success  of  the  persevering 
monarch  is  said  to  have  given  rise  to  the  proverb,  so  common 
since, 

Alh'i  van  Icycs 
Do  (itiiercn  Reyes. 

A  one-sided  compromise  was  finall}''  effected,  and  in  spite  of 
the  movement  made  by  Cardinal  Jimenez,  the  Muzarabic 
Ritual  has,  I  believe,  entii-ely  disappeared,  except  in  the  service 
of  this  chapel.  It  differs  in  some  points  from  the  common 
Missal,  though  1  am  not  sufficiently  skilled  in  theology  to  say 
whether  these  differences  be  vital. 

It  has  been  supposed,  at  least  it  was  so  charged,  that  the 
subject  Christians  introduced  into  their  belief  many  corrup- 
tions from  Mohammedan  sources.  Hut  universal  experience 
has  shown  that  a  vigorous  faith  is  preserved  in  greater  purity 
under  oppression  than  when  uplifted  by  world  1}^  prosjierity. 
It  is  probable,  however,  that  the  exterior  observances  were 
somewhat  modified  by  the  various  points  of  agreement  Avliich 
the  two  religions  presented.  The  .Mohammedans  respected 
Jesus  as  a  great  prophet,  inferior  onl}'  to  him  of  Mecca,  and  so 
were  many  of  the  Jewish  patriarchs  and  prophets  held  in 
equal  reverence  by  the  three  great  creeds  which  divide  the 
childi'en  of  Abraham,  the  common  father  of  them  all. 


128  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

Vansc  (lias,  vicnon  ilni"!, 
Vcnido  era  cl  dc  S:»ii  Ju  m. 
D.tndo  Cristianos  y  Moros, 
Iluocn  gruii  joluinuidaJ, 
Los  Cristianos  echan  junoi;i, 
Y  log  Moros  arrayan. 
L(».s  Juilio?  cchaii  cncas 
For  la  fiesta  mas  honrar. 

That  tlio  essential  doetriiios  of  belief  suiTei'ed  any  al'ioration 
ov  corruption  is  scarcely  to  be  supposed.  If  any  such  there 
were,  the  teri'or  of  the  Inquisition  has  effectually  rooted  them 

(IU(. 

The  Cathedi-al  of  Toledo,  anioni;-  other  precious  relics,  boasts 
also  a  marble  slab,  upon  Avhich  the  Viri^in  descended  to  place 
tlie  Casulla  upon  the  shouUlers  of  St.  Iklefonso.  Caboza  rev- 
orenlly  thrust  his  two  fingers  into  the  holes  which  devotion 
has  made,  and  kissed  the  tips  of  them.  May  he  derive  all  the 
benefit  he  anticipated.  He  assured  us  wc  were  fortunate  in 
the  time  of  our  visit,  being  the  fail-,  as  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
would  be  clothed  in  her  jewels.  To  describe  ail  the  treasures 
contained  in  a  Cathedral  that  has  received  and  merited  the 
appellation  of  "La  Eica,"  would  be  a  task  as  tedious  as  un- 
profitable. The  great  mcdian-al  Cathedrals  are  said  to  resume 
in  themselves  the  history  o{'  their  times.  This  is  eminently 
true  of  that  of  Toledo,  which  is  a  repository  of  ancient  art  and 
history.  I  liked  nothing  about  it  better  than  the  beautiful 
appearance  of  the  towers  from  the  Alcazar.  The  sonorous 
peal,  loo,  of  the  bell  is  grand.  But  whatever  may  have  been 
the  effect  of  the  (cathedral,  it  was  surjiassed  by  that  of  the 
cloister,  which  seemed  to  us,  coming  out  of  the  nai-row  glaring 
streets,  the  most  beautiful  sight  wo  had  ever  beheld.  The 
elegant  colonnade  and  luxurious  green  of  the  Patio  might  well 
reconcile  one  to  an  abnegation  of  the  exterior  pleasures  of  the 
woi'ld. 

After  loitering  at)0ut  awhile,  we  returned  lo  dinner  at  the 
Posada,  and  enjoyed  the  meal,  thoroughly,  under  the  awr.ing. 
It  was  a  foretaste  of  Amlalusia.  Hitherto  on  t!ie  journey 
through  Aragon  and  Castile,  I  had  seen  little  to  ve(!all  the 
Spain  of  the  Poets.  The  style  of  domestic  architectui-e,  the 
dress  and  Inibits  of  the  people,  had  savored  somewhat  of  the 
cliilly  north.  Here  we  felt  once  more  at  home.  Seated  on  a 
rickety  chair   in    the   Patio,  sui-rounded  by  dogs,  cats,  women 


THE    COMUNEROS. HOUSE    OF    PADILLA.  129 

sewing,  and  an-ieros  with  fajds  and  calanes  hats,  and  the  ther- 
mometer standing  at  140°  in  the  street  outside,  we  admitted 
that  mere  existence  was  beginning  to  be  agi-ecable. 

The  manufactoiy  of  arms  being  some  little  distance  bej-or.d 
tlie  walls,  the  host  offered  us,  after  dinner,  a  carriage  at  three 
dollars.  We  proposed  one  and  a  half,  the  full  value,  which  he 
refused.  AVe  started  to  walk.  He  came  down  to  two.  Our 
pride  declined  meeting  the  offer  of  conijn'omise,  and  fortun- 
ately, as  we  would  thereby  have  missed  a  very  pleasant  stroll, 
and,  in  all  prol)al»ility,  have  been  Jolted  nearly  to  death.  So 
off  we  went  under  the  reluctant  leadership  of  Cabeza. 

There  were  two  spots  in  Toledo,  vcr}-  interesting  in  their 
historical  associations,  which  I  had  overlooked  on  the  former 
visit.  We  proceeded  to  them  at  once.  The  one  Avas  the  site  ot 
the  residence  of  Padilla,  the  leader  of  the  rebellion  of  the  Com- 
uneros  against  the  Emperor  Charles,  the  last  vigorous  stand 
made  for  the  old  Spanish  liberties.  Contemporaneous  histo- 
rians, writing  under  the  influence  of  the  monarch,  have  dwelt 
upon  the  frailties  of  the  rebels.  Yet,  making  due  allowance,  it 
was  a  noble  effort  to  save  their  country  from  the  ever  increasing 
preponderance  of  the  royal  prerogative.  But  the  struggle 
was  in  vain.  The  united  power  of  the  Sovereign  of  Spain,  of 
German}^,  of  Italy,  and  of  America,  was  too  great.  Tiie  rod 
of  the  anointed  swallowed  up  the  smaller  rods,  and  Padilla 
atoned  for  his  temerity  by  jtlie  forfeit  of  his  life.  Ilis  noble 
wife,  Maria  de  Pacheco,  refused  to  surrender,  and  when  forced 
to  yield  the  suburl)s  of  the  city,  retired  to  the  Alcazar,  where 
she,  for  a  long  time,  continued  to  resist,  until,  all  hope  gone, 
she  succeeded  in  effecting  her  escape  to  Portugal.  Every  trace 
of  the  rebellion  was  obliterated  and  the  very  dwelling  of  its 
chief  razed  to  the  ground,  so  that  one  stone  should  not  stand 
upon  another.  The  Court  was  removed  to  punish  the  city, 
which  had  sympathized  with  this  attempt,  and  the  pall  of  abso- 
lutism remained  four  long  centuries,  stifling  every  aspiration  for 
freedom.  Had  the  prayer  of  the  Comuneros  been  granted, 
Charles  might  not  the  less  have  been  the  great  Emperor,  and 
Spain  would  have  been  free.  In  more  fortunate  times  a  return- 
ing sense  of  justice  caused  the  spot  to  be  marked  by  a  small 
tablet,  commemorative  of  the  event. 

The  other  was  even  more  interesting — the  ruins  of  tiie  palace 
of  the  Duke  of  Escalona,  the  head  of  the  Pacheco  family. 
10 


130  SPAIN    AND    TUT.    SPANIARDS. 

AVIicii  tlio  Constable  of  Bourbon,  wlio  Imd  fouglit  against  his 
nativo  country,  and  was  brandi'cl  throuiiliout  Europe  with  the 
name  (»f  traitor,  came  to  the  Spanish  Court,  after  the  battle  of 
Pavia,  its  lofty  cavaliers  were  unable  to  conceal  their  horror  of 
a  crime  which  shocked  all  those  ideas  of  honor  and  loyalty  that 
formed  the  foundation  of  their  knightly  character.  Charles 
requested  the  Duke  of  Escalona  to  receive  him  into  his  jialnce. 
The  subject  professed  his  readiness  to  comply  with  the  com- 
mands of  the  sovereign,  but  the  jiroud  grandee  vowed  the 
destruction  of  the  mansion  so  soon  as  his  unwelcome  guest 
should  have  departed,  considering  that  the  house  which  had 
sheltered  a  traitor  was  unworthy-  to  continue  the  residence  of 
a  Castillian  gentleman.  The  ruins  yet  remain,  the  noblest 
monument  that  any  mortal  ever  erected  to  himself  Cabeza 
fitly  remarked,  that  the  times  had  changed,  and  that  treachery 
was  now  the  shortest  road  to  preferment  and  to  fame. 

Our  route  lay  by  the  two  S^'nagogues,  quite  unique  in  Chris- 
tian Kui'ope,  for  nowhere  else  did  the  Jews  enjoy  sufficient 
security  to  justif}'  them  in  making  a  public  display  of  their 
wealth.  Notwithstanding  their  present  bigotry,  there  was  a 
time  when  Spaniards  were  as  dislingnishcd  for  tlieir  lilicrality 
in  tolerating  ditfei-ence  of  religious  belief,  as  they  have  since 
been  for  its  ojiposite.  The  Toledan  Jews  boasted  a  ver}' 
ancient  origin,  and  asserted  that,  w  lien  consulted  by  their 
brethren  of  Jerusalem  as  to  thi,»  crucifixion  of  our  Saviour, 
they  returned  a  strenuous  remonstrance,  of  which  a  eopy  exists 
in  till'  libi'ary  of  the  Vatican,  arguing,  hence,  that  the}'  were 
not  to  be  included  in  the  just  hatred  of  Christians.  The  A^iti- 
can,  doubtless,  contains  many  strange  documents,  wiiicli,  if 
brought  to  light,  would  require  the  history  of  modern  times  to 
be  re-written.  Whether  this  be  included  among  them,  is  a 
more  doubtful  matter.  Credat  Judanis.  The  position  occu- 
])ied  by  the  Spanish  Jews,  between  the  Christians  and  the 
Mohammedans,  capable  of  benefiting  or  injuring  either  party, 
would  have  been  much  more  efficacious  in  securing  them  a 
respectable  position  than  an}'  such  ixMuonstrance  of  their  ances- 
tors, however  well  authenticated.  Be  the  i-eason  what  it  may, 
the  fact  is  beyond  dispute,  that,  in  the  Peninsula,  this  people, 
the  oppressed  of  all  naticMis,  enjoyed  an  immunity  to  be  found 
nowhere  else.  Partaking  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  nation, 
from  whose  midst  tiie  edict  of  the  Inquisition  l)anished  them. 


THE    JEWS    IN    SPAIN.  131 

they  have,  even  in  exile,  hecn  characterized  h}-  an  uncompro- 
mising haughtiness  and  pride  of  birth,  denying  equality  with 
their  brethren  of  the  faith  from  less  favored  lands.  These  two 
Synagogues  were  built  in  the  pride  of  their  power.  The 
smaller  of  them,  now  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca,  was  built  as  far 
back  as  the  ninth  century,  the  century  after  the  conquest  bj^ 
the  Arabs.  The  other — El  Transito — was  erected  by  Samuel 
Levi,  the  famous  treasurer  of  Don  Pedro,  who  enjoyed,  per- 
haps, greater  influence  in  the  kingdom  than  any  of  his  faith 
had  ever  done  before  or  has  ever  done  since.  In  the  earlier 
days  of  the  Spanish  monarchies,  the  struggle  for  national 
existence  was  too  engrossing  to  permit  of  attention  to  aught 
but  the  science  of  war.  The  light  of  knowledge  was  kept 
liurning  only  at  Constantinople,  Bagdad  and  Cordova.  To 
the  latter  the  Jews  had  full  access,  and  hence  in  the  nascent, 
Christian  kingdoms  they  are  found  in  exclusive  possession  of 
certain  occui)ations,  such  as  medicine  and  tinanee.  From  time 
immemorial,  they  wei'e  conspicuously  engaged  in  tlie  treasury 
department,  which  was  a  source  at  once  of  power  and  unpopu- 
larity, and  had  much  to  do  with  their  final  expulsion.  From 
whatever  cause,  their  privileges  were  far  greater  in  the  Penin- 
sula than  in  any  other  part  of  Europe;  among  them,  the 
capacity  to  hold  land,  which  was  not  conceded  to  them  else- 
where, so  far  as  I  can  remember.  Their  subsequent  expulsion 
was  an  utterl}'  unnecessary  and  indefensible  act  of  intolerance, 
but  it  was  eifectuall}'  accomplished.  The  race  disappeared 
from  the  soil  of  Spain,  and  the  accounts,  renewed  from  time  to 
time,  of  Hebrews  still  secretl}^  professing  their  fiiith,  thouo-h 
filling  high  offices,  even  in  the  hierarchy,  are  mere  idle  tales  to 
gratify  the  credulity  of  untravelled  readers.  The  two  Syna- 
gogues are  both  of  simple  rectangular  shape,  and  in  outside 
beauty  rival  the  glories  of  fire-engine  house  architecture,  but 
within  are  the  splendor  and  minute  elegance  of  the  P'ast. 
Costly  woods,  M-hich  Solomon  was  so  fond  of  using,  slender 
columns,  fairy  latticed  galleries  for  the  women,  who  were  thus 
concealed  lest  the  eyes  and  thoughts  of  men  should  halt  be- 
tween heaven  and  earth,  all  illuminated  by  the  rays  of  the 
western  sun.  streaming  in  ro.sy  waves  from  above,  produce  a 
com])lete  illusion.  But  the  dcsillusion  is  at  hand  in  the  tawdry 
modern  ornaments  of  the  one,  and  the  vile  collection  of  old 
rubbish  deposited  in  the  other.     Some  guide-book  or  tiaveller 


132  SPAIN    ANP    THE    SPANIARDS. 

comi>lains  of  the  surliness  of  the  custodian.     He  cither  has  not 
been  changed,  (jr  has  left  a  worthy  successor. 

In  the  same  neighborhood  is  the  Church  of  San  Juan  de  los 
Ilcyos,  erected  b}-  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  gratitude  to  their 
tutelar  saint.  The  noble  fugade  is  still  ornamented  with  the 
chains  ])laced  there  b}'  the  Christian  captives  whom  the  suc- 
cess of  the  Moorish  war  had  freeil  from  slavery,  but  the  body 
of  the  editice,  and  particular!}'  the  exquisite  cloister  adjoining, 
are  in  a  sad  state  of  dilapidation.  The  former  still  contains 
some  fine  works,  among  them  a  magnificent  wooden  statue  of 
some  saint,  by  Alonso  Cano  :  the  pensive  head  is  uncommonly 
good.  Cabe/.a  romai'ked,  "  that  head  is  Ijctter  lliaii  iiiino" — a 
fact  we  did  not  dispute,  as  his  must  have  been  somewhat  dam- 
aged by  its  six  wounds.  The  pulpits,  too,  arc  gems  in  their 
way.  Among  the  decorations  were  scattered  plentifully  the 
arms  of  the  Catholic  kings,  with  the  3'okc  and  the  arrows. 
There  is  also  a  gallery  of  jiaintings,  which  we  looked  at  from 
politeness.  The  court  of  the  cloister  was  grown  up  with  broad- 
leaved  tropical  plants,  forcing  their  vigorous  life  amid  the  ruins 
of  fountains  and  broken  statues.  Part  of  the  upper  corridor 
had  fallen,  and  fragments  of  sculpture  lay  scattered  around. 
The  whole  was  a  melancholy  sight.  Its  cowled  inhabitants 
were  gone  forever.  The  stillness  of  death  reigned  around,  and 
the  sound  of  our  footsteps,  echoing  in  these  deserted  halls,  was 
painfully  audible.  Progress  is  certainly  desirable  ever3-where, 
but  its  triumphal  procession  is  too  often  like  that  of  Jugger- 
naut, marked  with  the  mangled  remains  of  what  is  most  beau- 
tiful, and  the  sacrifices  which  this  deity  demands  are  frequently 
so  revolting  as  to  cause  its  tlivinity  to  be  questioned. 

0])posite  to  the  Church  are  the  ruins  of  the  Palaces  of  Jime- 
nez, of  Wamba  and  of  Jioderic,  as  at  least  of  what  are  so 
called.  Vvo\n  the  last  is  a  view  down  into  the  gorge  in  the 
river  upon  the  Moorish  mills,  and  the  tower  where  La  Cava  is 
said  to  have  been  bathing  when  seen  by  Don  Roderic.  Much, 
perhai)S  all  of  this,  is  apocryphal,  but  wiiy  destroy  these  ro- 
numtic  fables?  AVe  cannot  live  by  bread  alone.  The  connec- 
tion of  Don  Julian  and  his  daughter  La  Cava  with  the  invasion 
of  Spain  by  the  Moors,  was  received  without  question,  until 
the  rise  of  the  historico-critical  school,  when  it  came  to  be  re- 
garded as  a  fable  and  the  pure  invention  of  Monkish  chroni- 
clers.    This  was  the  other  extreme.    Sulisequent  investigations 


DON  JUAN  AND  LA  CAVA.  133 

have  shown  that  the  truth  lies  in  the  middle  ground,  and  this 
romantic  incident  will  prohahly  resume  its  place  in  serious 
histoiy.  As  told  b}^  the  old  historians  it  is  substantially  as 
follows  : 

In  the  days  of  the  Gothic  kings,  it  was  the  custon\  that  the 
daughters  of  the  nohles  should  be  educated  in  the  Eoyal 
Palace  at  Toledo,  and  form  a  portion  of  the  (Queen's  Court 
until  the  period  of  their  marriage.  At  the  accession  of  Don 
Roderic,  one  of  the  principal  magnates  of  the  realm  was  Count 
Julian,  descended  from  the  blood  roj^al,  and  related  to  the  re- 
bellious sons  of  Wittiza,  and  the  traitor  Bishop  Oppas.  He  was 
entrusted  with  the  Castle  of  Ceuta,  in  Africa,  then  the  bulwark 
of  Christianity  against  the  advancing  tide  of  Mohammedan 
conquest.  In  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the  kingdom,  his 
daughter,  La  Cava,  was  in  attendance  upon  the  Queen.  One 
day,  when  the  young  ladies  were  diverting  themselves  by  bath- 
ing in  the  golden  watei'S  of  the  Tagus,  Don  Roderic,  in  an  evil 
hour  for  Spain,  looked  from  his  window,  and  spell-bound  by  the 
extraordinar}'  beauty  of  the  fair  Cava,  forgot  himsell^,  his  king- 
dom and  his  religion, 

Ay  do  Espaiia  ! 

Perdida  por  im  gusto  y  por  La  Cava. 

Beside  herself  with  grief  at  the  affront.  La  Cava  wrote  a 
pathetic  and  touching  letter  to  her  father,  who  hastened  to 
Toledo,  his  heart  overflowing  with  revenge.  Roderic,  sui'priscd 
at  his  sudden  appearance,  inquired  if  he  had  procured  certain 
hawks  for  hunting,  which  he  had  been  desirous  of  obtaining 
from  Africa.  ''  I  have,"  replied  the  incensed  parent.  "  They  will 
accompany  me  on  m}^  next  visit,  and  they  are  such  hawks  as 
3'ou  have  never  seen  before  in  your  life."  Pretending  that  his 
wife  lay  mortally  sick  at  Ceuta,  and  that  nothing  could  assuage 
the  pangs  of  her  malady  exce])t  the  sight  of  the  beloved  Cava, 
he  succeeded  in  returning  with  his  daughter  to  Africa,  where 
he  entered  into  the  negotiations  which  led  to  the  landing  of  the 
Mohammedan  arm}'  and  the  battle  of  Guadalete.  This  event 
must  therefore  have  happened  a  year  or  so  ])revious  to  A.  D., 
711,  and  the  little  tower  on  the  bank  of  the  river  has  been 
pointed  out  by  tradition  as  the  scene  of  its  occurrence.  Aa 
before  stated,  the  history  of  La  Cava  received  implicit  faith, 
until  a  critic  remarked  that  the  name  of  neither  was  mentioned 


134  SPAIN    ANI>    TIIK    SI'ANIAUDS. 

in  any  wi-itini;  previDUs  to  the  chronicle  of  tlie  Monk  of  Silos, 
who  lived  in  Iho  twelfth  century.  The  two  contemporary 
chronicles,  and  that  of  Duleidio,  of  Don  Alfonso,  and  the  lOiuil- 
ian.  do  not  even  acknowledi^e  their  existence.  This  silence 
was  considered  cojulusive.  and  the  famous  histor}-  of  Don 
Julian  was  bani.shed  to  the  misty  reigns  of  fable. 

Since  then,  however,  the  attention  of  Spanish  literati  has 
been  turned  toward  the  Moorish  authors,  and  they  have  enjoy- 
ed the  peculiar  advantage  of  seeing  the  picture  of  their  historj' 
from  two  exactly  opposite  points  of  view.  Many  difficulties 
have  thus  been  cleared  away.  The  researches  of  Gyangos,  in 
particular,  liave  thrown  great  light  upon  the  present  matter, 
and  established  conclusively  that  so  far  as  Don  Julian  is  con- 
cerned, his  existence  at  least  is  not  a  fabrication  of  the  Monk  of 
Silos,  for  he  quotes  Arabic  authors  of  an  early  date,  \vho,  how- 
ever much  they  may  differ  in  the  spelling  of  his  name,  and  his 
position  under  the  Gothic  monarchy,  agree  in  calling  him  Lord 
of  Ceuta,  and  in  assigning  him  a  prominent  place  in  the  ])re- 
parations  for  invasion.  The  silence  of  the  early  Christian 
authors  can  be  easily  explained,  when  Ave  reflect  that  a  treason 
of  this  sort  would  natural!}'  be  better  known  to  the  Moors,  and 
moreover  that  Don  Julian  (or  Ilyan  as  they  call  him)  was  pro- 
bably a  half  independent  chief,  paying  only  a  nominal  alle- 
giance to  the  Gothic  monarchs,  and  choosing  his  side  in  war, 
without  thereby  attracting  much  attention  to  the  motives  by 
wliieh  he  might  have  been  prompted.  Apostacy  seems  to  have 
cost  very  little  at  that  day.  Munuza,  subsequentlj'  the  Moor- 
ish commander  of  the  northern  frontier,  and  the  hero  of 
another  romance,  which  has  been  ornamented  by  poetry  and 
the  drama,  was,  from  his  name,  evidently  a  Basque  renegade, 
Munoz  or  Muiiez,  plaj-ing  a  similar  part  with  Don  Julian.  As 
for  the  two  contemporaneous  authors,  one  of  them,  Isider  Pa- 
censis,  describes  the  invasion  in  less  than  twenty,  and  the  other 
the  continuator  of  the  Biclarense,  in  less  than  ten  lines,  with- 
out mentioning  the  names  of  Bishop  Oppas,  or  the  sons  of 
Wittiza,  about  whoso  intrigues  there  can  be  no  doubt.  If  their 
silence  were  suflScicnt  negative  proof,  the  history  of  that  era  in 
Spain  would  be  reduced  to  meagre  proportions.  The  succeed- 
ing chronicles  were  written  in  the  recesses  of  Gallicia,  Ticon 
and  the  Asturias,  faraway  from  the  local  tradition,  wiiich  was 
probably  known  only  to  Don  Eodcric   and  the  courtiers,  and  it 


BON  JULIAN  AND  LA  CAVA.  135 

is  natural,  that  the  few  survivors,  it'  any  there  were,  sliouUl  not 
perpetuate  tlie  nieinory  of  an  oeeurreneo  redounding  so  little 
to  their  honor,  and  whose  connection  with  the  suhsequent  inva- 
sion Avas  prohahly  unknown  to  them.  Moreover,  the  Monk  of 
Silos  merely  says  that  the  insult  to  his  daughter  increased  the 
disaflfection  of  Don  Julian,  who  was  already  leagued  hy  family 
ties  with  the  rebellious  sons  of  Wittiza,  and  that  the\-  were  all 
alike  engaged  in  the  negotiations  with  the  Moors.  The  pecu- 
liar prominence  assigned  to  him  was  an  emhellishmcnt  of  sub- 
sequent historians. 

In  all  this,  however,  there  is  nothing  said  about  La  Cava, 
and  historians  and  guide  books  give  her  up  for  the  same  reason 
that  the}'  formerly  gave  up  Don  Julian,  because  she  is  not 
mentioned  in  the  early  chronicles.  That  La  Cava  is  not  the 
invention  of  any  Christian,  is  evident  from  her  name,  which  is 
])ure  Arabic  and  rather  an  ai)iiellation.  What  her  real  Gothic 
or  Eoman  name  was,  is  unknown.  She  is  sometimes  called 
Florinda.  The  Spanish  chroniclers  drew  the  tale,  therefore, 
either  from  an  early  Arabic  autlior,  whose  work  is  lost,  or  from 
some  tradition  current  among  the  Moors.  The  thing  in  itself 
was  not  improbable.  It  is  well  known  that  the  Gothic  Counts 
or  Comites,  were  the  comj^anions  of  the  sovereign,  and  that 
their  children  were  educated  at  the  Court,  a  custom  i)erj)etu- 
ated  to  a  very  late  da}^  in  Spain,  not  only  b}'  the  sovereigns 
themselves,  but  by  the  great  magnates.  That  the  daughter  of 
Don  Julian  should  have  been  sent  to  Toledo,  or  to  Seville  as 
others  have  it,  is  natural.  The  act  attributed  to  Don  Roderic 
is  possible,  if  we  believe  the  general  accounts  given  of  his  dis- 
solute morals,  though  a  great  part  of  the  crimes  laid  to  his 
door  were  pious  fictions  to  explain  the  heav^y  judgment  of 
Providence  upon  him.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  probable 
that  the  Moors  invented  this  tale,  because  there  would  be  no 
motive  for  their  so  doing,  and  because  it  contains  references  to 
customs  of  the  Gothic  Court  with  which  they  would  scarcely 
have  been  acquainted,  and  which  were  altogether  difterent 
from  their  own.  The  eloquent  letter  that  Mariana  attributes 
to  her,  is,  of  course,  a  subsequent  composition,  for  if  the  con- 
fiding Cava  knew  even  the  alphabet,  she  was  far  in  advance  of 
contemporary  beauties,  and  of  some  of  her  fair  countrywomen 
a  great  man}-  hundred  years  afterwards.  The  bath  itself,  is 
probably  equally  apochryphal.      Popidar   traditions  are  poor 


136  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

reliance  in  mere  matters  of  detail.  Itiit  tliey  arc  scldoiu  without 
some  foundation  in  general  I'act,  and  unless  eontradieted  1)V.  or 
inconsistent  with  ascertained  events  or  unreasonahle  in  them- 
selves, are  not  wholly  to  be  rejected,  because  not  reduced  to 
writing  till  some  ages  have  elapsed.  So,  in  spite  of  the  almost 
unanimous  opposition  of  critics,  I  was  determined  not  to  bo 
cheated  out  of  the  existence  of  the  young  lady,  and  gazed  over 
the  jiarajiet  with  as  much  interest  as  though  Don  .Tiilian's 
daughter  were  present  in  reality  as  well  as  in  tradition. 

licaving  the  city  by  the  beautiful  (late  of  Cambroii,  we 
descended  to  the  river  bank,  and  pursuing  our  way  through 
lu.xui'iant  gardens,  irrigated  by  water  wheels  of  the  most 
Oriental  type,  the  veritable  Moorish  norlds,  an<l  giving  and 
receiving  abur  from  the  peasants,  we  reached  the  manufactory 
of  arms.  It  is  strange  that  some  favored  spots  seem  pecu- 
liarly fitted  for  the  production  of  cutlery,  without  its  being 
])Ossible  to  assign  any  satisfactory  reason  therefor.  Some 
attribute  the  virtues  of  this  locality  to  the  atmosphere,  others 
to  the  water.  Whatever  be  the  cause,  Toledo  has  always  been 
famous  for  its  weapons.  Owing  to  neglect,  the}^  once  well 
nigh  lost  their  Avell  deserved  reputation,  l»ut  are  now  ftist 
rising  again  into  rei)ute,  and  bid  fair  to  equal  those  of  the 
sixteenth  centui-y.  '^flie  wliite  anus  of  the  8])anish  service  are 
made  here,  and  alreaily  compare  favorably  with  an}'  in  the 
world.  The  building  itself  oft'ers  nothing  extraordinary — a 
large  court  surrounded  b}'  workshops.  Nor  did  the  process 
seem  to  be  materially  ditterent  from  that  imrsued  at  Chateaxi- 
rault  and  other  ])laces.  In  old  times,  a  great  many  dcmi- 
cabalistic  cx])edients  were  resorted  to,  but  the}"  have  been 
long  since  abaiidoneil.  The  weajxnis  are  tested  in  the  most 
eft'ectual  manner,  both  as  to  strength  and  tem])er.  Tlie  blades 
are  thi-ust  against  a  wall,  and  bent  nearly  double.  They  are 
tlicii  struck  violently  on  tlie  flat  side  upon  some  hard  sub- 
stance, and  the  edge  is  fmall}'  tried  on  one  of  the  softer  metals. 
The  daggers  are  driven  by  some  strong-armed  person  through 
a  cop])er  or  silver  coin.  After  j)assing  through  such  tests,  they 
may  laugh  at  bone  or  cuirass.  Those  famous  blades  that  were 
|)acked  in  a  circular  V>ox,  can  still  he  made,  but  more  sturdincss 
is  i-ecpiiiT'd  at  present.  In  truth,  it  is  not  easy  to  understand 
how  such  flexibility  was  consistent  with  the  necessities  of 
actual  service. 


ROMAN    RUINS. — GABACIIOS.  137 

I  embraced  the  opportimit}^  of  selcctliii^  four  poignards  of 
approved  quality,  as  they  were  tested  before  my  eyes,  and 
have  no  doubt  they  will  i^rovo  equal  to  any  emergency.  I 
only  hope  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  trying  them.  One  of 
the  workmen  from  Cadiz  maintained  that  the  locality  was  of 
no  importance,  and  that  their  excellence  de]iended  entirely 
iipon  the  skill  of  the  artizan.  Cabeza,  Avho  was  a  native  of 
Toledo,  fired  u]i  warmly  in  liehalf  of  the  steel-tcMnpcring 
Avaters  of  the  Tagus.  As  they  were  evidently  partial  wit- 
nesses, I  rejected  the  opinions  of  both, — but  it  is  certain,  that 
though  other  localities  have  been  tried,  this,  by  unanimous 
consent,  has  been  selected  as  producing  the  best. 

Between  the  Fabrica  de  Armas  and  the  city  lie  the  ruins  of 
the  old  Christian  Basilika  and  (he  Roman  Circus.  It  is  sup- 
posed that  the  Roman  city  extended  over  this  plain,  as  the 
modern  one  must  do,  if  it  extend  at  all,  just  as  has  occurred  at 
Granada.  Built  upon  a  lofty  rock,  Toledo  suffers,  as  it  has 
always  done,  for  want  of  water.  In  ohl  times,  the  business  of 
supplying  it  with  this  indispensable  fluid  was  in  the  hands  of 
the  (Tabachos,  who  came  for  that  purpose  from  the  French 
Pyrenees,  whither  they  returned  after  accumulating  a  small 
fortune.  As  I  have  before  remarked,  the  word  "  (Jabacho  "  is 
of  very  uncertain  origin  and  meaning.  It  is  now  a])])lied  almost 
exclusively  to  the  French  as  a  malciiction.  They  were  called 
here  Azacanes,  from  the  Arabic  word,  signifj'ing  ''  Waterer." 

On  the  way  back  we  enjoyed  a  magnificent  view.  The 
whole  heavens  in  front  were  covered  with  a  black  mass  of 
thunder  cloud,  such  as  tropical  climates  alone  can  show.  The 
wind  was  coursing  furioush'  down  the  upper  valley,  sweeping 
and  tossing  high  into  the  air  vast  clouds  of  dust  on  both  sides 
of  the  city,  charged  with  the  earth}-  odor  of  freshlj-  fallen  rain. 
Projected  upon  the  cloud,  and  struggling  between  its  gloom 
and  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  behind  us,  was  the  white  line 
of  the  city  from  the  gate  of  Bisagra,  by  the  Casa  de  Locos,  to 
the  ruins  that  crown  the  banks  of  the  Tagus;  palaces  peeped 
over  palaces,  and,  reaching  far  above  all,  was  the  glittering 
Cathedral  upon  the  summit  of  the  rock,  with  the  ponderous 
Alcazar  in  the  back  ground.  This  view,  alone,  would  have 
repaid  us  for  the  visit.  As  the  storm  was  some  distance  off, 
we  proceeded  leisurely,  stojjping  to  look  at  tlie  outlines  and 
scanty  remains  of  the  Roman  ruins.     After  that  we  challenged 


13s  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIAULiS. 

C'abeza  to  a  race  up  tlie  hill,  ami,  thanks  to  hi.s  many  wounds, 
distanced  him  ;  had  he  been  thirty  years  younger,  the  victory 
miijht  not  have  been  so  easy.  He  evidently  thoui^ht  us  "origi- 
nals," perhaps  madmen,  though  the  exact  ])art  of  the  -world 
which  hor.ored  us  with  a  home  puzzled  him.  He  was  kind 
enough  to  congratulate  us  upon  our  grammatical  Spanish  and 
fine  jironunciation,  which,  from  a  ToK'dano,' was  very  satisfac- 
tory, though  he  reluctantly  admitted,  when  hard  ])i'ossed.  that 
our  fluency  was  not  so  great  as  that  of  the  natives. 

We  re-entered  by  the  gate  of  liisagra,  and,  leaning  over  the 
parapet,  enjoyed  the  prospect  which  extended  on  three  sides. 
On  the  plain  below  stood  the  vast  convent  of  Afuera  j  and,  be- 
yond that,  were  the  ruins  of  the  castle,  to  which  the  i-omancers 
say  that  Don  Julian  retired  with  his  daughter.  On  tlie  right, 
the  view  embraced  the  valley  of  the  Tagus,  the  Pasco,  and  the 
castle  of  Cervantes  on  the  eminence  beyond  the  bridge  of  Alcan- 
tara; to  the  left,  was  the  road  we  had  just  left,  behind  us  rose 
the  city,  tier  after  tier  of  ancient  houses  mounting  above  each 
other,  until  the  whole  culminated  in  the  rosy  towers  of  the 
Cathedral.  As  the  sun  disappeared,  we  Avound  down  the  east- 
ern slope,  crossed  the  bridge,  and  took  our  seats  in  the  train. 
A  few  miles  out,  we  met  and  traversed  the  storm,  and  ten 
o'clock  found  us  seated  before  a  cold  fowl  and  a  flask  of  Yal 
de  Penas  at  the  Fonda  in  Madrid,  pleased  with  ourselves  and 
the  whole  world. 

There  are  few  more  interesting  excursions  than  the  one  I 
have  just  described.  It  was  a  visit  to  the  ])ast,  the  yet  living 
j)ast,  without  vigor,  but  still  existing.  Toledo  is  fortunate 
above  most  cities  in  preserving  relics  of  the  various  phases  of 
civilization  which  have  existed  in  the  Peninsula — the  Roman, 
the  Gothic,  the  Moorish,  the  S|)anisii  up  to  tiie  age  of  Philip  II — 
and  it  has  always  been  the  favorite  abode  of  the  Christian 
hierarchy.  "Whoso  has  not  seen  Toledo,  has  not  seen  S})ain. 
Nor  are  the  reveries  of  the  past  disturbed  by  the  advancing 
tread  of  the  presetit.  In  former  da3's,  when  the  treasures  of 
America  found  their  only  exit  through  the  Spanish  galleons, 
and  prelates  were  powers  in  the  State,  the  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo and  Patriarch  of  the  Indies  enjoyed  a  salar}^  estimated  at 
$600,000,  a  fearful  sum  at  that  time,  though  very  little  of  it 
went  to  the  gratification  of  his  personal  wants.  The  number 
of  pi'iests,  monks  and  nuns  was  liniitless.    They  have  all  passed 


GENERAL.  139 

away,  but  the  tenantless  convents  and  monasteries  attest  their 
former  opulence.  This  world-renowned  cit}',  the  home  of 
Wamba,  the  favorite  seat  of  councils,  the  bulwark  of  the 
Moors,  the  last  asserter  of  Spanish  liberty,  has  dwindled  to  a 
fifth-rate  town,  whose  scanty-  population  scarce  suffices  to  pro- 
tect its  crumblinj^  walls.  Even  the  railroad  seems  to  have 
entered  the  conspiracy,  by  drawing  off  its  population  to  the 
superior  attractions  of  Madrid.  The  primacy,  the  manufac- 
tory of  arms  and  the  military  school  alone  give  the  semblance 
of  life.  Everything  beyond  the  merest  necessaries  is  sought  at 
the  capital.  Even  bull-fights  have  ceased;  those  of  Madrid 
being  so  accessible  on  great  occasions.  When  the  communica- 
tion with  Lisbon  is  opened,  a  change  may  take  place,  though 
in  the  present  ago  of  peace  and  ease,  it  is  difficult  for  a  city 
built  iipon  a  hill  to  maintain  its  importance. 


CnAPTKU  Vlir. 
:\I  A  D  JU  D    TO    S  E  V  I  L  L  E  . 

Departure — La  Mancha — Don  Quixote — Entrance  into  Andalusia — La  Carolina — 
IJutllc  of  Las  Xavas  de  Tolosa — Battle  of  Bailcn — Andujar — The  Country — 
View  near  Carpio — Cordova — Valluy  of  the  Guadnlquivir — Party  from  Lora — 
Api>roach  to  Seville. 

The  reasons  wliic-h  dotaiiied  ine  in  Madrid  having  ceased  to 
exist,  1  made  all  speed  to  enihark  for  Andalusia,  and  a  l>riij;lit 
August  tiiorning  found  nie  in  the  Seville  diligenec.  I  occupied 
the  herlina  alone.  A  young  Catalan  and  his  hride,  an  inteUec- 
tual-looking  Italian,  were  in  tiie  interior.  They  fraternized  with 
me  immediately  as  a  fellow-countrynian,  at  which  I  knew  not 
whether  to  be  pleased  or  niortitietl,  for,  though  it  is  generally 
flattering  to  be  mistaken  for  one  of  that  handsome  race,  j'et  it 
was  provoking  to  be  told  in  Italy  that  you  had  a  Spanish 
accent,  and  in  Spain  an  Italian  accent.  However,  as  they  were 
very  agreeable  people,  the  oifence  was  venial.  The  rotunda 
received  a  bull-fighter,  a  .stout,  well-made  fellow,  a  little  Sevil- 
lana,  who  said  "Si  Seiior"  so  prettil}',  and  a  young  man  on  his 
Avay  to  the  Havana.  There  was  the  usual  collection  of  friends 
to  see  us  off,  but  the  young  man  in  the  rotunda  was  most  to  be 
envied.  He  bade  farewell,  with  commendable  serenity,  to  sev- 
eral elderly  ])ersons,  and,  finally,  to  a  handsome  young  lad}*, 
who  must  have  occupied  a  much  dearer  place  in  his  affections. 
She  struggled  in  vain  to  suppress  the  tears  that  fell  from  her 
cheeks.  How  exquisitely  beautiful  she  looked  I  Oh!  3'e  dream- 
ers who  doat  upon  the  Madonnas  of  Rafaelle  and  the  Magda- 
lens  of  Correggio  I  reserve  your  admiration  for  a  Spaniard  in 
teal's,  not  the  tears  of  real  attliction,  but  those  which  refiect  the 
image  of  love,  and  which,  alas!  absence  dries  too  s])eedily. 
And  if  those  tears,  perchance,  are  shed  for  3"0u,  fortunate  mor- 
tal, inscribe  your  name  among  the  ever  happ}',  and  pi'ay  to  be 


LA    MANCIIA. — VAL    DE    PEN  AS    WINE.  141 

removed  to  the  mansion  of  the  blessed,  for  you  have  expe- 
rienced all  that  earth  can  ofter  of  felieit}'.  Yet,  who  would 
believe  it,  this  faithless  SM^ain  was  laughing  at  breakfast,  two 
hours  later,  as  though  the  aching  heart  in  ]\Iadrid  had  no 
longer  a  place  in  his  memor}-. 

As  the  dreary  natui-e  of  to-day's  ride  Avas  familiar  b}'  expe- 
rience, I  begged  the  mayoral  to  give  me  some  company ;  any 
Avould  be  better  than  none.  A  few  miles  out,  my  request  Avas 
granted  in  the  sluipe  of  a  long  weazened,  good-humored  anti- 
quity, who  descended  from  the  coupe  until  some  one  more 
worthy  than  he  should  api^ear.  lie  was  ushered  in  b^"  the 
mayoral,  with  profuse  coninuMidations,  and  though  he  was 
innocent  of  many  things,  and  prohal)ly  did  not  know  whether 
George  Washington  was  born  in  Kamschatka  or  Patagonia,  or 
that  the  British  lion  had  bit  the  dust  at  New  Orleans,  yet  he 
knew  all  about  La  Manclia,  Avhich  was  much  more  to  the 
present  occasion.  We  Avhirled  on  the  railroad  by  Aranjuez  to 
the  station  at  Tembleque,  where  we  took  our  mules  and  em- 
barked, for  it  seems  like  undertaking  a  long  sea  voyage.  The 
ancient  looking  square  of  Tembleque,  with  its  slender  colon- 
nade, was  familiar,  but  for  many  weary  hours  the  road  remained 
utterly  devoid  of  all  interest,  save  that  conferred  b^'  the  immor- 
tal Cervantes,  who,  with  rare  success,  has  rendered  one  of  the 
most  unattractive  countries  in  Europe  a  centre  of  interest  to 
the  whole  literary  world,  for  he  enjoys  with  Homer  the  felicit}' 
of  being  read  and  admired  in  all  countries,  and  his  fame  seems 
destined  to  survive  through  all  ages.  To  do  La  Mancha  jus- 
tice, it  must  he  said  that  the  dullness  of  the  country'  is  by  no 
means  a  characteristic  of  tlu'  ])e()])Ie.  who  are  as  good-humored 
and  lively  a  set  as  exist  in  8pain.  Hard-working  in  the  day. 
but  work  once  over,  devoted  to  dancing  manchegds  and  singing 
Seguidillas  until  the  morning.  And  then  they  produce  the 
Val  dePenas  wine,  wiiich  is  tlie  especial  growth  of  the  triangle 
between  ]\ranzanare.s,  Val  de  Penas  aiul  Cuidad  Real.  There  are 
said  to  be  two  kinds,  white  and  red,  though  I  have  never  seen 
the  former.  The  red  is  full  and  rich,  of  more  bod}-  than  most 
French  wines,  except  perhaps  some  of  the  Cote  d'or,  and  is  a 
great  favorite  in  Spain,  when  it  can  be  procured,  for  the  means 
of  communication  from  one  province  to  another  are  still  such 
as  to  require  the  pig-skin  and  the  mule.  A  considerable  por- 
tion  of  the  best  is  consequently  consumed  on   the   spot.     In 


142  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

some  parts  of  La  ^Maiulia  i^ood  water  is  so  scarce  that  the  juice 
of  tl»c  grape,  in  its  various  forms,  is  the  ordinary  drink  of  the 
inhabitants. 

As  for  points  of  interest  on  this  road,  tliere  are  scarcely  any, 
save,  as  1  have  said,  those  wliich  recall  the  gallant  knight. 
Near  the  City  of  Ocana.  on  the  Iclt.  Areizaga  underwent  a 
disastrous  defeat,  resembling  in  causes  and  consequences  that 
of  (Jates  at  Camden.  A  few  leagues  farther  on  we  passed  a 
villainous-looking  gang  of  prisoners — gallej'  slaves — "  creeping 
like  snail  unwillingly  to"  work  on  the  road.  I  do  not  remem- 
ber, in  my  whole  life,  ever  to  have  seen  people  make  such  an 
interval  between  the  setting  down  of  one  foot  and  the  lifting  of 
the  other.  The  thing  had  evidently  been  reduced  to  a  science. 
At  the  Pass  of  Puerto  Lapiche,  Don  Quixote  encountered  the 
wind-mills,  whose  descendants  are  still  flourishing,  and  defeated 
the  Biscayan  after  nearly  driving  him  crazy  by  asserting  that 
he  was  not  a  "gentleman."  Farther  on  is  a  Venta,  said  to  be 
built  upon  the  spot  where  the  Don  was  knighted,  which  may 
or  may  not  be  so.  Ilis  second  salida  was  near  our  road  into 
the  Sierra  Morena  to  the  Venta  do  Cardenas,  whence  he  was 
taken  home  in  a  cage.  Toboso,  the  cave  of  Montesinos,  and 
other  localities  mentioned  in  the  third  salida.  all  lie  to  the  left. 
Many  foreign  cdiloi's  and  illustrators  of  Don  (^hiixotc  have 
been  far  from  com))rehcnding  the  various  assenililage  of  good 
and  bad  traits  which  are  combined  in  the  character  of  the  two 
])rincipal  personages  in  tlie  history.  The  famous  illusti-ations 
of  Tony  Johannot  will,  1  am  sui-e,  give  little  pleasure  to  any 
one  who  has  resided  in  S})ain  long  enough  to  appreciate  its 
inhabitants.  ]le  makes  Sancho  a  sort  of  Dutch  boor,  and  the 
knight  ridiculous  and  absurd.  Both  are  erroneous.  Don  Quix- 
ote is  a  monomaniac,  but  a  true  and  lo^al  gentleman,  whoso 
hands  were  never  soiled  by  anything  unworthy  of  the  exalted 
ideal  which,  in  his  madness,  he  adopted  as  a  model.  The  spirit 
that  prompted  iiini  has  alwa3's  existed  in  Spain.  Jt  elevated 
her  to  the  throne  of  the  world.  Something  beyond  the  mere 
practical,  some  little  ideality  is  necessary  to  greatness.  The 
veneration  and  enthusiasm  of  a  soldier  for  a  strip  of  soiled, 
shot-torn  bunting,  fluttering  from  an  old  staif,  is  purely  imagin- 
ative; yet,  what  noble  deeds  has  it  not  prompted  !  In  our  day, 
devotion  to  an  idea  is  stamped  as  Quixotism,  fanatTcisni,  and 
considered  fair  subject  for  ridicule.     Even  chivalry  has  become 


•  MY   CO^rPAMON.  143 

a  term  of  reproach.  The  next  generation  will  pi-obably  be 
convinced  of  its  error,  and  confess  that  hap})iness  is  not  con- 
fined to  the  gratification  of  bodil}-  or  even  intellectnal  desires. 
A  long  causeway  led  over  the  now  dry  ojos  de  Guadiana. 
The  same  treeless,  brown,  dusty  landscape,  bounded  by  blue 
mountains,  and  covered  with  blue  sky,  continued  until,  at 
length,  toward  sunset  we  approached  j\Ianzanares,  a  considera- 
ble toAvn,  which,  Avith  its  gardens  and  irrigated  fields,  seemed 
a  ver}^  oasis.  It  was  almost  the  first  green  1  had  beheld  since 
leaving  Aranjuez.  IManzanares  ransacked  the  highways  and 
byways  of  beggardom  to  give  us  a  suitable  welcome.  One  of 
the  applicants — a  good-looking,  tidy-clad  matron — had  some 
peculiar  claim  upon  the  purses  of  travellers.  She  was  blind 
for  one  thing,  and  had  received  a  good  education  in  her  youth, 
suflicicntly  evidenced  by  the  correctness  of  her  speech.  1  was 
too  glad  to  escape  by  paying  the  required  tax.  Here  my  ven- 
erable companion  was  forced  temporarily  to  give  place  to  three 
brisk  manchegas — -just  one  too  many,  as  there  were  only  three 
seats — though  the  mayoral  said,  that  as  I  had  in  the  morning 
complained  of  want  of  company,  I  should  not  complain  now 
of  too  much,  lest  it  might  be  supposed  I  was  hard  to  please. 
We  had  a  lively  time  to  Val  de  Peiias,  where  they  dismounted, 
and  the  ancient  resumed  his  place.  He  was  very  apprehensive 
of  being  upset  in  crossing  the  Sierra,  and  was  continually  say- 
ing :  "  Pienso  que  hemos  de  volcnr ;  el  gand-o  no  vale  nd-a."  (1 
think  we  are  going  to  upset;  the  cattle  are  perfectly  worth- 
less.) I  gave  him  all  the  consolation  in  my  power,  which  was 
to  the  eftect  that  I  could  not  prevent  the  upsetting.  It  is 
strange  how  people  of  a  certain  age  dislike  the  idea  of  being 
killed  !  and  how  loth  they  are  to  follow  the  doctrines  of  pre- 
destination into  practice  !  Not  that  I  was  particularly  desirous 
of  dying  upon  the  threshold  of  Andalusia;  iji  fact,  I  never  felt 
less  in  the  humor  of  receiving  extreme  unction  than  at  that 
moment.  We  sympathized  on  one  point,  at  least.  Contrary 
to  good  manners,  but  very  consistent  with  nature,  I  forgot  the 
perils  of  the  road  and  slept  soundly.  An  unworthy  env^'  of 
\\\y  superior  powers  of  repose  prompted  him  to  awaken  me 
frequently  under  pretext  of  offering  water  and  other  courtesies 
of  the  road,  until  i  hinted  that  all  men  were  not  endowed  alike 
in  this  resi)cct,  and  that  opening  my  eyes  would  not  necessarily 
close  his,  whereupon  he  uulxirthencd   his  heart  and  vowed  that 


144  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIAUDS. 

it  was  a  shame  to  sleep  so,  while  he  was  coiulemned  to  hopeless 
watchfulness.  We  made  an  amicahlc  truce,  however,  and  I 
awoke  in  Andalusia,  as  we  were  thundering  down  the  rocky 
street  of  La  Carolina.  To  my  surprise,  all  sorts  of  accidents 
liad  happened  during  the  night  ;  the  tongue  had  broke,  the 
mules  had  got  loose,  «&c..  &c.,  Imt  we  were  all  sound  in  body 
and  in  mind,  and  exchanged  congratulations  at  tinding  our- 
selves once  more  in  the  land  of  the  cloudless  climes  and  starry 
skies. 

If.  in  crossing  the  Pyrenees,  the  traveller  feels  himself  in  a 
dilforent  land,  equally  strong  is  that  conviction  in  passing  from 
l>:i  .Manclia  t(^  A  mhilusia.  The  sun  was  just  rising  above  the 
hills,  yet  the  little  posada  had  the  hot,  still  temperature  of  a 
tropical  country.  Its  Avcll-swept  tiled  floor  would  have  been 
worth}'  of  Holland.  Plants  of  various  descriptions,  neatly  ar- 
ranged in  pots,  adorned  the  irregular  court,  and  the  dining 
room,  ornamented  with  rude  prints  of  the  Virgin  and  of  the 
romantic  exploits  of  some  of  the  conquerors  of  Peru,  evinced, 
at  least,  an  humble  taste  for  the  beautiful.  On  the  outskirts  of 
the  town  was  the  Paseo,  with  its  immense  oaks  and  walnut 
trees.  Hedges  of  aloes  and  cactus  skirted  the  roads,  and  olive 
groves  covered  the  hill  sides,  Avhile  far  in  the  distance  were  the 
lofty  Sierras  of  Jaen  and  Granada  quivering  in  the  heated 
atmosphere.  With  what  rapture  did  I  find  myself  once  more 
in  fair  Andalusia  I  and  how  unutterably  sweet  to  the  soul  was 
the  music  of  joys  that  were  passed,  but  yet  survived  in  mcm- 
or}' 1  .M 3' first  passage  over  this  i-oad  had  been  in  midwinter. 
Leaving  the  chilly,  freezing  winds  that  howled  over  New 
Castile,  I  bail  crossed  the  Sierra  Morcna  about  noon,  and 
descended  the  valley  of  the  (Juadalquivir  on  the  evening  of  a 
warm  day  in  January.  ''Behold  Andalusia  1"  exclaimed  my 
coniiKinioii,  himself  a  Sevillano,  pointing  to  the  land  that 
unrolled  itself  beibre  us.  The  ravines  widened  out  into  lux- 
uriant valleys,  concealed  in  whose  bosom  flowed  the  head- 
waters of  the  Gruadalquivir,  pouring  their  silver  tribute  on. 
"White  farm  houses  relieved  the  green  of  the  olive  and  the 
orange.  The  city  of  Baeza,  the  pastures  of  Ubeda,  celebrated 
for  the  best  of  Andalusian  steeds,  and  even  the  Cathedral  of 
Jaen,  it  was  supposed,  with  the  golden-tipped  AljDujarras  be- 
yond, were  visible  to  a  practiced  eye  in  the  rays  of  the  evening 
sun,  whose  nielhnv   warmth    difiused    light  and   health   to   the 


LA    CAROLINA.  145 

fininiate  world.  As  tlie  halin}^  breezes  floated  !)y,  laden  with 
odors  from  a  thousand  tields,  it  seemed  to  me  then,  and  it  seems 
to  nic  now,  thouo-h  long,  long  years  have  intervened,  a  fairy 
scene,  whose  harmony  would  have  been  marred  l)y  the  most 
dulcet  tones  that  ever  issued  trom  mortal.  The  natural  charms 
of  the  country,  infinitely  heightened  by  the  strong  contrast  of 
the  morning,  thi-ew  me  into  one  of  tliose  undefined,  dreamy 
states  of  l)liss  so  dear  to  the  Oriental  imagination,  Mhich  find 
noade(|uato  description  except  in  the  expci'icuce  of  the  Hasheesh. 
ITpon  the  present  occasion,  hesitating  anticipation  had  yielded 
to  tiie  certainty  of  experience.  Then  it  was  a  dream  of  doubt- 
ful fulfillment,  now  it  was  a  reality.  The  a])proaching  month 
was  to  compensate  for  an  age  of  tedium  and  strife. 

Andalusia  is  the  ])oetry  of  Spain.  It  is  the  Spain  of  which 
we  read  and  di-eam.  "What  gloi-ies  can  compare  with  its  glo- 
ries y  \Vliat  other  land  in  Euro])e  thus  coml)ines  the  remains 
of  J^:)man.  ^looi-ish  and  S])anisii  grandeur?  What  thus  unites 
every  ]iroduct  of  the  earth,  from  the  orange  and  olive  to  the 
tender  flowers  which  bloom  at  the  verge  of  perpetual  snow,  all 
in  one  beautiful  harmony  i:*  What  can  boast  such  treasures  of 
mineral  wealth  Z  What  such  noble  specimens  of  animate  crea- 
tion':' What  so  cloudless  a  skyy  Truly  has  it  been  st3led  the 
mansion  of  the  blessed. 

La  Carolimx  is  the  fruit  of  an  eflbi-t  made  in  the  last  century 
to  re-people  the  wastes  of  the  Sierra  Morena  with  a  new  popu- 
lation drawn  from  Germany.  Olavides,  the  mover  of  it,  fell 
under  I  ho  lian  of  the  accursed  Inquisition  before  his  work  was 
completed;  but  the  foundation  of  the  colony  was  laid.  .Many 
ti'avellers  have  thought  that  the}-  perceived,  in  the  fair  com- 
plexion of  the  inhabitants,  traces  of  their  Teutonic  origin.  The 
children  are  lighter  colored  than  those  of  most  southern  na- 
tions, but  the  adults  seemed  to  me  real  S])aniards  in  eveiything 
except  the  contour  of  the  face.  Indeed,  comjdexion  is  entire!}' 
an  affair  of  climate,  though  not  necessarily  of  latitude;  the 
features  and  the  shape  of  the  head  are  more  enduring  evidences 
of  race.  This  attempt  at  colonization  was  not  very  successful. 
The  emigrant  did  not  coalesce  witii  the  native  population. 
Nor  have  such  attem))ts  ever  been  successful  except  under 
ancient  J^)me  ami  in  the  United  States.  The  remedy  for  a 
declining  population  should  have  been  sought,  not  in  the  impor- 
tation of  human  beings,  but  in  the  reform  of  those  political  eviU 
11 


14<»  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS.  * 

which  ehainc'fl  thecncrgj'of  her  people  and  forbade  tlioir  increase. 
Under  enli"'htcncd  Governments,  sucli  a.s  now  rule  Spain,  there 
is  and  can  l>e  no  deficiency  of  men. 

One  of  the  pleasures  of  travelling  in  Andalusia  is  that  every 
valley  and  every  plain  have  been  the  scene  of  .some  romantic 
conflict  during  the  long  contest  which  raged  between  the 
Christians  and  Mohammedans  for  the  possession  of  this  favored 
rcion.  A  few  leagues  from  La  Carolina,  near  the  Sierra,  lies 
Las  Navas  de  Tolosa,  a  name  ever  to  be  honored  in  Spanish 
annals.  After  the  empire  of  the  lieni  Omeyah  had  fallen  to 
pieces,  the  Spanish  Arabs  found  it  necessary,  from  time  to  time, 
to  ajjpeal  to  the  Berbers  of  ^'orth  Alrica  for  sujiport  against 
the  ever  advancing  wave  of  the  Christian  c(jnqucst.  The  Ber- 
bers, indeed,  did  not  always  wait  for  an  invitation.  Andahisia 
was  famous  throughout  all  the  Moluimmcdan  dominion  as  the 
earthly  paradise;  ami  the  leader  wlio  could  cross  the  vStraits  of 
Gibraltar,  and  successfully  establish  himself  in  its  possession, 
was  envied  of  the  human  I'acc.  The  Alnioravides,  having  con- 
quered the  Empire  of  Morocco,  pursuant  to  the  invitation 
extended  to  them,  entered  Spain  under  Joseph  or  Yusef  beu 
Tax  tin,  and,  in  1U8G,  gained  a  signal  victory  at  Zalaca  ovgr 
Alfonso  VL  The  Almoravidcs,  in  turn,  made  way  for  tlie 
Almohades,  a  sect  of  Unitarian  reformers,  who,  under  Jacob  or 
Yacoub  al  Mansour,  with  equal  glory  and  fame,  overthrew 
Alonzo  VIII  at  Alarcos,  near  Almagro,  in  the  year  1195.  Still, 
the  Christians,  notwithstanding  these  deleats,  pursued  their 
steady  course  of  aggression  until  Mohammed  Nasser  eddin 
Allah  (defender  of  the  faith  of  God),  son  of  Al  j\Iansour,  deter- 
mined, by  one  great  eti'ort,  to  restore  the  Moorish  Empire  to  its 
j)risline  glory,  and  crush  forever  the  aspiring  Christian  nations. 

The  I'eligious  war  was  proclaimed  throughout  Andalusia  and 
Al  Magreb,  and  the  I']mir  crossed  the  Straits  at  the  head  of  an 
immense  army,  threatening  to  stable  his  horses  in  the  portico 
of  St.  Peter's.  While  making  his  final  preparations  at  Seville, 
he  received  an  embassy  from  King  John  of  EngUuul,  which 
besought  his  aid  against  the  Pope  and  the  rebellious  Barons. 
But  the  noble  Mohammedan,  having  informed  himself  as  to  the 
true  character  of  that  worthless  monarch,  rejected  his  j^rayer 
with  disdain,  expressing  equal  disgust  for  the  meanness  of  the 
sovereign  and  the  cowardice  of  the  subjects  who  could  submit 
to  such  a  master.     The  approach  of  so  formidable  an  ojiponent 


i 


,  THE    CAMPAIGN.  147 

thi'cw  Europe  into  terror.  Innocent  III  issued  a  bull  arousing 
Christendom  to  a  sense  of  its  danger,  and  proclaiming  remis- 
sion of  sins  to  such  as  should  join  the  II0I3'  Crusade.  The  rival 
banners  of  Castile  and  Aragon,  followed  by  all  their  chivalry, 
floated  in  conjunction  over  the  walls  of  Toledo.  The  Arch- 
bishops of  Narbonne  and  of  Bordeaux,  the  Bishop  of  Nantes, 
two  thousand  knights,  ten  thousand  horsemen,  and  fifty  thou- 
sand foot  from  l)oy()nd  the  Pyrenees,  joined  the  allied  forces  ; 
some  in  the  true  sjtirit  of  Crusaders,  some  influenced  by  an 
expectation  of  the  tangible  rewards  of  this  earth,  others  under 
the  fascination  which  dangerous  emprise  possesses  for  the . 
generous  youth  of  ever}-  age.  The  clergy  bore  their  part  not 
only  spiritually,  but  temporally.  Processions  and  a  fast  of 
bread  and  water  were  oi'dered  at  Rome,  Avhile  many  a  Spanish 
bishop  exchanged  his  crozier  for  a  battle-axe.  Long  centuries 
had  elapsed  since  such  discordant  elements  were  united,  and 
the  army  set  forth  with  the  prayers  of  Christendom  for  their 
continued  harmony.  But  dissensions  soon  destroyed  the  good 
accord  Avhich  had  been  anticipated.  The  foreigners  thought  it 
best  to  begin  their  pious  work  by  a  general  slaughter  of  the 
Jews,  and  forthwith  commenced  upon  those  in  Toledo.  The 
Spaniards  were  too  civilized  for  such  religion,  and  defended 
their  countr^'men,  SMord  in  hand.  With  great  diflficultj-,  this 
first  commotion  was  appeased.  Don  Diego  de  Ilaro,  Lord  of 
Biscay,  the  hero  of  the  ballad  commencing  — 

En  Burgos  e.-ta  el  buen  Rcy  — 

was  then  sent  out  at  the  head  of  the  foreigners  as  an  advance 
guard,  and  stormed  the  toAvn  of  Malagon.  And  now,  says 
Archbishop  Roderic,  the  devil,  envious  of  such  good  fortune, 
turned  the  hearts  of  the  ultramontanes  from  the  holy  cause. 
By  dint  of  earnest  persuasion,  they  were  prevailed  upon  to 
continue  as  far  as  Calatrava,  two  leagues  distant,  whose  garri- 
son made  a  desjierate  defence,  and  were  permitted  to  retire 
with  their  lives.  This  put  the  finishing  stroke  to  the  disgust  of 
the  ultramontanes.  They  had  been  debarred  the  pleasure 
of  murdering  the  Jews,  they  had  clamored  in  vain  for  the  sack 
of  Calatrava,  and  were  determined  to  retire  to  their  homes. 
Deaf  to  the  entreaties  and  reproaches  of  their  allies,  they 
replied  that  the  heat  was  too  great;  thus  anticipating  the  sol- 
diers of  one  of  our  regiments  at  Buena  Yista,  who  refused  to 


148  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPAM.VUDS. 

drink  from  the  canteens  of  the  Mississippians  because  the  water 
of  .Saltillo.  sonic  miles  to  tlie  rear,  was  so  much  cooler  I  The 
booty  was  generously  divided  between  the  foreigners  and  the 
Aragonese  ;  and  they  de|)arted,  in  the  language  of  an  eye 
witness,  "  without  honor  or  glor}'."  True  to  themselves,  they 
attempted,  on  the  way,  to  take  Toledo  l»y  treachery;  but  the 
iidialntants  closed  the  gates,  and  batle  them  defiance.  As 
tiie  eajtlive  floors  had  been  sent  off  under  the  escort  of  Don 
Diego  do  Ilaro,  in  order  to  preserve  the  honor  of  the  Span- 
iards, at  least,  the  ultramontancs  reached  their  homes  in 
sutliciently  bad  humor.  Yet  Mr.  Ford  seems  to  think  that  the 
Eu'dish  and  French  were  entitled  to  the  glory  of  the  campaign, 
and  were  cheated  out  of  it  bj'  the  Spanish  historians,  just  as 
the  inevitable  "  Duke"  was  centuries  later  !  The  truth  being, 
that,  witli  the  exception  of  the  Archbishop  of  Narbonne  and 
Theobald  de  Blazcon,  a  knight  of  Poiton,  but  of  Castillian 
descent,  with  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  others,  all  told,  not 
one  of  the  whole  herd  remained. 

El  Nassr,  who  had  been  quietly  wailing  at  Jean,  in  expecta- 
tion of  some  such  event,  now  advanced  towards  the  Sierra  Mo- 
rena,  and  ordered  its  passes  to  be  occu])ied.  The  Christians 
presented  themselves  at  that  of  Al  Muradal,  wliich  was  strong- 
ly defended,  but  Don  Diego  de  llaro,  who,  like  liosquet,  in  the 
Crimea,  seems  to  have  been  present  whenever  needed,  sent  his 
son  with  a  detachment  to  seize  the  neighboring  heights,  and 
thus  forced  the  Moors  to  fall  btick  for  a  short  distance,  but  to  a 
much  stronger  position,  which  in  fact  proved  to  be  impregna- 
ble. Tiie  Chi-istians  were  now  retluced  to  great  distress  and 
perplexities.  To  retire  for  the  purpose  of  seeking  another  jiass 
would  have  the  appearance,  and  might  induce  the  necessity  of 
a  retreat,  which,  under  Ihe  circumstances,  would  have  been  a 
I'out.  At  this  nioinent  a  shepherd  (or  San  Isidro,  in  the  guise 
of  one)  offered  to  lead  them  up  by  a  goat  path.  Don  Diego 
de  llaro  and  Don  Garcia  Romero,  volunteered  to  follow,  and 
on  Saturday,  the  14th  .July,  1212,  the  astonished  xMusselmen 
beheld  the  Avhole  Chi-isLian  encamped  on  Las  Navas  ( the 
])!ains)  de  Tolosa.  Battle  was  immediately  offered  to  the 
Christians,  who,  however,  declined  the  challenge.  That  and 
the  following  day  were  spent  in  resting  from  their  fatigues 
But  on  Sunday,  at  midnight,  "the  voice  of  joy  was  heard  in 
the  tents  of  tiie  Just."     The   heralds  sounded  the  note  of  pre- 


THE    BATTLE.  149 

paration.  The  Mass  of  the  Cross  wah  celebratod.  Every  sol- 
diei*  confessed  his  sins,  received  absolution,  and  took  liis  ])laec 
in  the  ranks.  The  King  of  Navarre  commanded  the  right 
wing;  the  King  of  Aragon  tlie  left;  in  the  centre  were  the 
('astillians,  in  four  grand  corps,  commanded  hy  Diego  de  Ilaro, 
(lonzalo  Nunez  de  Lara,  Roderic  Diaz,  and  the  King.  Not  far 
in  front,  on  an  elevation,  was  visilile  the  I'juir's  Eed  Tent  of 
Battle,  and  the  sacred  camel  that  carried  the  Koran  of  Oth- 
nian.  The  Emir  himself  was  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  chains, 
and  his  guard  of  forty  thousand  men  formed,  witli  their  pikes, 
an  impenetrable  wall.  At  the  rising  of  the  sun,  tlie  trumpetd 
ordered  the  charge.  As  the  volunteers,  forming  the  first  line  of 
the  Mohammedans,  advanced,  the  Christian  centre  either  re- 
treated or  was  driven  back,  but  the  two  Avings  closed  in  upon 
the  flanks  of  the  enemy.  The  issue  was  doubtful.  More  than 
opce  did  Alfonso  exclaim  to  Ivoderic :  "  Archbishop,  let  us  die 
here  I"  But  the  stout-hearted  prelate  replied:  "Nay,  noble 
King,  let  us  conquer  here."  At  length,  when  all  l)ut  honor 
seemed  lost,  the  cross  of  the  Archbishop  and  the  standard  of 
the  Holy  Virgin  were  advanced,  and  the  tide  of  victory  changed. 
The  volunteers,  to  the  number  of  one  huudi'cd  and  sixty  tiiou- 
sand,  were  utterly  routed.  Not  content  with  this  success,  the 
Christians  charged  the  second  line,  composed  of  Almohades 
and  Arabs.  When  the  battle  was  at  the  highest,  the  Andalu- 
sia n  Moors,  to  revenge  the  various  affronts  they  had  received 
from  the  liajib  Ibn  Djamea,  rode  off  tiie  field.  Confusion  im- 
mediately ensued.  The  followers  of  the  Prophet  Qxcry  where 
took  to  flight,  with  the  exception  of  the  Sultan's  guard,  whose 
circle  of  spears  defied  the  efforts  of  the  Christians,  until  back- 
ing their  mail-clad  horses  upon  the  points,  they  forced  an  en- 
trance, burst  the  iron  chains,  and  El  Nassr  himself  was  com- 
pelled to  seek  safety  in  flight.  Night  alone  checked  the  bloody 
pursuit.  The  number  reported  to  have  been  slain  is  scarcely 
credible.  Archbishop  Roderic  puts  that  of  the  Moors  at  two 
hundred  thousand,  and  that  of  the  Christians  at  twent3'-five, 
which  one  of  the  best  modern  historians  of  Spain  has  inter- 
preted twenty-five  thousand.  But  the  other  eye  witnesses  give 
similarly  marvellous  numbers.  Alfonso  says  that  by  the  con- 
fession of  the  Moors  themselves,  one  hundred  thousand  fell, 
while  scarcely  twenty-five  or  thirty  Christians  were  missing. 
The  Archbishop  of  Narbonne  cstimatus  them  respectively  at 


150  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

sixty  thousand,  and  fifty.  It  really  seem.'*  as  thousjjh  St.  Jau^o 
were  present.  The  Moorish  writers  too.  say  that  of  the  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  who  entered  tlie  Kattlc,  scarcely  a  ili<)nsan<l 
escaped,  while  famine  created  as  "rreat  i-avaiijes  anionic  the 
fu>j;itives  as  the  sword.  In  these  days  of  u;unpowder  and 
tactics,  such  slaughters  are  scarcely  possihle;  hut  it  was  far 
f>therwise  when  every  man  met  his  enemy  face  to  face,  and  the 
battle  became  a  series  of  individual  encounters.  The  ])hinder 
was  of  course  boundless.  For  tin-  two  days  that  the  anny 
remained  encamped  upon  the  rield.  they  used  no  fuel  except 
the  spears  and  arrows  of  the  Moors.  Even  the  silken  tent  of 
the  Emir,  and  his  gold  embroidered  standard  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  conquerors,  and  were  presented  by  Alonzo  to  his  Holi- 
ness. 

Great  was  the  rejoicing  throughout  Christendom  at  the  news. 
Te  Deums  were  chanted,  and  the  lineaments  of  the  shepherd 
sculptured  in  the  choir  of  the  Cathedral  at  Toledo,  where  they 
are  still  dimly  visible.  The  King  of  Navarre  placed  the  chains 
upon  his  shield  in  memory  of  his  prowess  in  bursting  through 
the  defence  of  the  Emir's  camp.  Many  private  families  also, 
the  Zuiiigas.  Peraltas,  Abarcas,  hence  derive  the  same  em- 
blem, while  otlu'i-s  bear  the  Cross,  emblematical  of  the  heavenly 
signal  which  ajtpeaivd  to  cheer  the  Christians  on.  It  was  one 
of  those  overwhehning  defeats  that  seal  the  fate  of  races  and 
religions.  The  western  Moslems  never  recovered  from  its 
effects,  and  for  centui-ies  aftei-uanls  did  their  i)oets  and  histo- 
rians continue  to  bewail  the  dark  day  of  Alakab.  This  cam- 
paign is  instructive  as  affoi-ding  an  opportunity  of  comparing 
the  Spaniards  and  Moors  with  their  contemporaries,  bringing 
into  strong  conti-ast  the  cowardice,  brutality  and  bigotry  o+'the 
one.  and  tlie  chivah-ic  gallanti-y  and  humanity  of  the  other. 
No  better  evidence  could  be  desired  of  the  superior  civilization 
enjoyed  by  the  two  races,  which  divided  the  Peninsula,  over 
that  of  the  Europeans  to  the  north  of  the  Pyrenees. 

A  few  miles  farther  on  is  Bailen,  the  scene  of  another  victory 
ovor  an  invading  foe,  not  less  distinguished  in  its  day,  and  of 
consequences  even  more  momentous.  In  the  year  180S,  Europe 
was  physically  overwhelmed  by  the  armies  of  Na[)oloon.  and 
morally  crushed  beneath  a  l)elief  in  the  invincibility  of  his 
eagles.  Austerlitz,  Jena  and  Friedland,  had  successively  re- 
duced the  three  continental  nations  to  the  silence  of  dcspaix*. 


BAILEN. THE    BATTLE.  151 

Spain  and  Portugal  had  been  apparent!}'  eonquei'ed.  Every 
English  army  that  landed,  whether  in  Holland,  Italy  or  France, 
had  been  driven  with  ignominy  into  the  sea,  and  universal 
empire,  like  a  paral^'zing  doath-pall,  hung  over  the  eastern 
hemisphere.  As  the  daylight  succeeds  the  darkest  hour  of 
night,  so  did  the  victory  of  Bailen  startle  the  ear  of  expiring 
Europe.  It  was  stealthily  whispered  about,  even  in  Paris, 
that  an  army  of  eighteen  thousand  Frenchmen,  under  one  of 
the  best  Imperial  generals,  iiad  laid  down  its  arms  l)eforc  Cas- 
taiios  and  his  collection  of  half  armed  Spaniai'ds.  F<n'  de- 
scribes the  effect  upon  Napoleon.  lie  cried  with  rage,  not  at 
the  material  loss,  for  what  were  twenty  thousand  men  to  him, 
who  disposed  at  his  whim  of  the  lives  of  millions  ?  But  the 
charm  of  invincibility  was  gone.  "  Is  j^our  Majesty  unwell  ?" 
"No."  "Has  Austria  declared  war?"  "Would  to  God  that 
were  all!"  exclaimed  the  Emperor.  Bailen  was  to  Europe 
what  the  battle  of  King's  Mountain  had  been  to  the  Southern 
States  in  the  American  Revolution.  To  appreciate  its  effect, 
one  must  have  heard  old  people  tell  of  the  prostration  of  our 
own  country  when  in  the  hands  of  two  worthy  patriots,  but 
incompetent  generals,  sent  us  by  Congress;  the  good  cause  had 
gone  down,  and  no  Whig  dared  avow  his  principles.  It  Avas 
then  that  the  beacon  light,  kindled  by  our  hands  upon  our 
rugged  mountain-top,  sent  forth  beams  of  joy  and  hope  through- 
out the  land.  And  so  did  the  Spaniards,  trusting  to  no  foreign 
aid,  arouse  Europe  to  a  renewed  struggle  for  her  independence, 
a  struggle  which  was  not  to  cease,  till  from  the  Soutli  and  the 
East,  the  conquering  generals  met  in  Paris  itself  English 
writers  have  endeavored  to  depreciate  the  value  of  Bailen, 
wishing,  as  usual,  to  monopolize  for  their  island  the  credit  of 
the  Peninsula  resistance,  but  all  dispassionate  men  M'ill  ascribe 
to  this  glorious  victory  the  regeneration  of  prostrate  national- 
ities, and,  in  its  ultimate  consequences,  the  salvation  of  Furo])e 
itself 

As  a  militar}^  operation,  the  campaign  was,  in  some  respects, 
curious  enough.  One  half  of  the  French  army  under  Yedel 
was  at  Carolina.  Bailen  was  occujjied  by  a  portion  of  the 
Spanish.  On  the  road  to  Andujar,  was  the  main  bod}'  of  the 
French  under  Dupont,  and  beyond  them  the  Spaniards  under 
Castanos,  so  that  the  advantages  of  position  were  ahuost  ex- 
actly equal.     The  diligence  road  runs  at  right  angles  through 


152  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    SI'AMARHS. 

the  battle  field.  Both  sitles  have  boon  freely  critici-sed  lor  liav- 
ini!:  plaeed  themselves  respectively  between  the  mill  stones. 
Fortune  decided  for  Spain,  and  in  a  few  weeks,  scarcely  a 
French  soldier  remained  south  of  the  Ebro,  except  the  Portu- 
guese army  of  poor  Junot,  who,  after  vainly  altemptin-j;  with 
inferior  n:imbers  to  Ibrce  the  British  ])osition  at  Yimeiro — cut 
off  from  communication  with  France,  and  menaced  by  a  nation 
in  rebellion — concluded  the  Convention  of  Cintra.  The  })anic 
of  Duponl  can  be  explained  but  not  excused.  Nothini;-  could 
excuse  a  (icnoral  for  surrenderiiiLC  with  eighteen  thousand  dis- 
ciplined troops.  Surrounded  with  a  hostile  peasantry,  whoso 
activity  isolated  him  even  from  his  own  advanced  i;-uard. 
crisped  by  the  rays  of  an  Andalusian  midsummer  sun,  ])ai(hi'd 
b}'  thirst  amid  these  burning  hills  and  exhausted  river-beds, 
embarrassed  by  loads  of  treasure,  the  plunders  of  many  a  cathe- 
dral and  convent,  it  is  not  altogether  wonderful  that  he  should 
have  become  confused,  have  vacillated  and  despaired.  More 
than  this  cannot  be  said.  Napoleon  regarded  him  with  horror, 
and  never  called  him  into  service  again.  But  the  general  opin- 
ion in  the  French  army  has  always  been  that  he  was  too 
severely  punished,  and  that  the  necessity  of  making  a  terrible 
example  influenced  the  Emperor's  conduct  as  much  as  justice. 
It  was  a  universal  and  not  unfounded  complaint  with  his  offi- 
cers, that  ho  demamled  from  them  in  Spain,  with  young  con- 
scripts, results  which  would  have  done  honor  to  veterans. 

At  Builen,  the  high  road  to  (Jranada  branches  otf,  and  we 
received  a  reinforcement  of  passengers,  two  of  whom,  ver^' 
pleasant  gentlemen,  entered  the  berlina.  They  were  going  to 
visit  some  relative  residing  near  Carpio.  Mistaking  mo  as 
usual  for  an  Italian,  the  conversation  turned  immediately  to 
the  war.  It  afforded  a  good  exam])lo  of  the  astonishing 
ignorance  of  many  well  born  and  educated  Spaniards  upon 
external  affairs.  It  was  with  some  difficulty  I  convinced  them 
that  Victor  Emanuel  Avas  not  a  republican  at  heart,  leagued 
with  Garibaldi  in  a  secret  alliance  against  monarchy  and  reli- 
gion throughout  the  world  I  We  had  a  severe  arguuKMit  upon 
the  Italian  (piestion  in  general.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  Ihey 
learned  something  more  u))on  the  subject  than  they  knew 
before.  From  Bailen  the  road  continued  to  descend  rapidly, 
crossing  several  streams — mountain  torrents  in  winter,  but 
nearly  dry  at  present — one  of  them  bearing  the  appropriate 


ANDU.TAU. — TRAITS    OF    CHARACTER.  153 

name  of  Eio  Scco — a  very  eominon  iip])clltitlon  of  rivers  iu 
Spain,  and  not  infrequently  well  deserved.  At  length  we 
reached  the  for  famed  Guadalquivir,  antl  about  noon  halted  for 
breakfast  in  the  ancient  cit}'  of  Andujar. 

The  great,  and  so  far  as  I  could  see,  the  only  manufacture  of 
Andujar,  is  that  of  porous  rarthen  jars  for  cooling  water, 
which  arc  indispensable  to  Andahisian  comfort,  and  are  found 
in  every  house.  It  is  one  of  the  inventions  that  are  well 
worthy  of  being  introduced  into  our  country.  Filled  in  the 
night,  the  contents  are  found  in  the  morning  of  exactly  the 
desired  temju'rature,  and  to  my  taste  more  agreeable  than  ice 
water,  besides  being  much  moi-e  cleanly.  As  the  effect  is  pro- 
duced by  evaporation  of  the  fluid  that  oozes  through  the  jar,  a 
low  dew  point  is  requisitt'.  which  is  the  case  in  nearly  every 
part  of  .Spain.  Suitable  clay  can  be  found  all  over  Andalusia, 
and,  if  I  do  not  forget,  in  Cuba  also,  but  that  of  Andujar  either 
is  or  is  thought  to  be  better  adapted  to  the  purpose,  communi- 
cating, moreover,  no  earthy  taste  to  the  water,  and  is  conse- 
quently preferred.  It  is  surprising  to  see  how  much  will  exude 
fi-om  a  pitcher  even  during  dinner,  and  the  greatest  luxury 
of  a  hot  climate  is  thus  placed  Avithin  reach  of  the  poorest 
family. 

A  nice  young  Norman  had  joined  us  at  Bailen,  on  his  way  to 
Seville.  The  diligence  being  full  and  he  the  last  comer,  it  was 
necessary  to  displace  the  mayoral  from  his  seat;  he,  in  turn, 
displaced  the  zagal,  who  sat  wdiero  he  could,  which,  generally 
speaking,  was  nowhere.  All  this  had  to  be  ])aid  ibr  extra  by 
way  of  a  (jratlficacion  to  these  functionaries.  The  Frenchman 
])aid  it  with  man}*  protests,  com])laining  that  it  was  a  mere 
cheat  and  an  imposition  upon  him  as  a  stranger.  My  compan- 
ions took  tlie  accusation  ver^'  much  to  heart,  as  they  thought 
the  honor  of  their  countiy  involved,  and  made  great  efforts  to 
exjdain.  but  neither  party  understood  the  language  of  the  other 
suliiciiMilly  well,  so  they  prayed  me  to  clear  away  the  stigma 
from  Andalusia,  which  I  was  able  to  do  satisfactorily  at  the 
next  stoji]iing  place.  I  mention  this  because  it  is  an  example 
of  another  of  the  thousand  traits  of  Spanish  character  that  find 
a  counterpart  in  the  United  States,  or  at  least  in  the  Southern 
portion  of  them — that  sensitive,  even  thin-skinned  national 
pride,  which  feels  that  the  conduct  of  every  iiulividual  reflects 
either  for  good  or  evil  upon  the  general  character,  and  regards 


loi  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

the  jniljlic  as  inseparable  iVoiu  the  individual  reputation  of  its 
nienilji'i's;  wjicreas  the  general  disposition  of  Europe  is  to  con- 
sider the  goveninieiit  or  the  pu!)lie  ami  the  individual  as  dis- 
tinct beings. 

Leaving  Andujar  and  its  Moorish  tower,  we  ascended  slowly 
fron\  the  left  hank  of  the  Guadahiuivir.  Every  step  developed, 
with  increasing  beauty,  the  characteristic  charms  of  the  South. 
From  tile  top  of  the  first  little  cui'ski  we  looked  down  into  a 
delicious  green  valle}'  with  a  stream  and  antique  Moorish 
bridge,  that  caused  us  all  to  exclaim  aloud  with  admiration. 
Even  the  may<jral  caught  the  contagion.  From  that  time  f()r- 
ward  the  road  ascended  and  descended  lofty  hills  with  table 
lands,  through  immense  olive  groves,  extending  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  Interspersed  among  the  pale  green  could  be  seen 
numerous  farm  houses,  surrounded  by  white  walls,  and  occa- 
sionally a  Moorish  tower,  that  had  done  good  service  in  the 
olden  time,  would  rear  its  head  to  the  light  of  the  evening  sun. 
To  our  right,  at  some  distance,  flowed  the  river  in  a  broad 
fertile  valley,  and  beyond  stood  the  Sierra  Morena  with  its 
groves  and  sparkling  villas  uj)  the  mountain  side.  Peasants,  in 
the  graceful  Andalusian  costume,  Avere  everywhere  at  work. 
Sometimes  a  horseman  would  ])ass  us  with  his  rifle  slung  over 
the  saddle,  then  a  long  string  of  mules  laden  with  merchandize, 
and  more  rarely  an  e(piipage  of  the  better  sort  came  flying  by. 
The  scene  was  lively  compared  with  the  Castiles,  in  which  you 
seldom  sec  any  one  out  of  the  towns. 

At  sunset  we  descended  the  hill  side  into  the  valley  of  a 
stream  thai  here  enters  llie  river.  We  passed  through  a  vil- 
lage, crossed  the  stream  a  little  above  its  mouth,  and  beheUl 
one  of  the  most  lovely  landscapes  I  remember  ever  to  have 
seen.  None  but  a  painter  could  adequately  rei5i*esent  it.  The 
road  skirting  the  river  hank  ran  for  a  half  mile  directly  west; 
on  our  right  was  a  grove  of  Spanish  oaks  interspersed  with 
olives,  and  ])rotecting  from  the  fuiy  of  the  mid-day  heat  a 
green,  worthy  of  Scotland.  At  some  little  distance  in  front 
stood  the  intensel}'^  Moorish  looking  town  of  Carpio,  rising  to  a 
])oint  stec-])  on  the  left,  with  its  castle  and  dhurch  projecting 
against  the  ruddy  sky,  while  directly  along  our  path  was  the 
smooth  bosom  of  Guadahjuivir,  bathed  in  the  golden  light  of 
the  sunset.     The  Sien-a  Morena  bounded  the  view  beyond.     A 


FONDA  AT  CORDOVA. — JOURNEY  TO  SEVILLE.       155 

different  play  of  light  might,  perhaps,  deprive  it  of  ita  charms; 
but  as  Ave  saw  it,  I  retain  few  more  beautiful  visions. 

Leaving  the  town,  we  were  qnickly  ])lunged  into  darkness. 
Andreas,  our  one-ej'ed  postilion,  had  a  narrow  escape.  His 
horse  fell  and  was  run  over  by  the  rest,  but  Andreas  alighted 
on  his  feet  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  road.  How  he  got 
there  no  one  could  tell.  The  mayoral  accused  him  of  being 
asleep;  a  pardonable  offence,  considering  that  he  had  been  in 
the  saddle  thirty  six  hours — all  the  way  from  Madrid.  About 
midnight  Ave  passed  around  the  Avails  and  entered  Cordova,  our 
mules  striking  fire  from  the  precipitous  street,  and  took  lodg- 
ings in  the  Fonda  Kizzi. 

The  architecture  of  the  Fonda  Avas  thoroughly  Andalusian. 
A  considerable  part  of  the  building  consisted  of  the  Court  or 
Patio,  exposed  to  the  air,  and  floored  Avith  mar1)le,  Avith  tables 
and  chairs  arranged  around  the  foimtain.  This  Patio  is  bor- 
dered by  a  colonnade,  upon  Avhich  open  the  A'arious  rooms.  I 
recognized  the  place  immediatel}',  but  it  appeared  to  me  that 
the  Patio  formerl}-  Avas  in  the  second  story.  The  mystery  Avas 
soon  soh^ed  b}'  learning  that  the  original  entry  had  been 
from  another  street  on  a  difl^erent  level.  At  that  time  I  had 
thought  it  a  beautiful  place,  and  had  been  fully  impressed  Avith 
all  sorts  of  poetical  feelings.  But  T  had  not  then  seen  Seville, 
Avhich  spoils  one's  taste  for  most  else.  Indeed,  such  Avas  the 
attraction  It  possessed  for  me,  that  I  could  not  refrain  from 
starting  the  next  morning  on  the  railroad  at  early  dawn.  In 
1852,  Ave  Avere  still  confined  to  the  diligence  across  the  hills,  at 
an  expense  of  tAventy-four  hours'  additional  travelling  ;  but  Avcre 
rcAvarded,  first,  by  the  famous  view  of  Cordova  from  the  oppo- 
site hill ;  then  by  the  City  of  Ecija,  on  the  banks  of  the  beau- 
tiful Genii,  Avhich,  rising  near  Granada,  passes  here  to  its  union 
Avith  the  (Juadalquivir;  and,  lastl}-,  by  the  truly  magnificent 
morning  view  from  the  City  of  Carmona,  Avhich  embraces  not 
only  the  Vega  of  Seville,  but  even  the  mountains  of  Eonda,  and, 
as  they  say,  the  Alpujarras.  Kcija,  situate  in  a  A'alley,  surrounded 
by  high  table  lands,  is  supposed  to  be  the  hottest  jdace  in 
Spain,  and  is  called  "Xa  ciudad  del  Sol,"  or  "La  Sartenilla,'" 
"  the  frying-pan."  The  city  is  famous  for  its  antiquity,  its  fine 
promenade,  and  the  blue  blood  of  the  inhabitants  of  its  Callo 
de  los  Caballeros. 


156  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SI'AMAUns. 

The  railrojul  now  passes  (iiroctl}'  down  the  broad  valley  of 
the  GiiadaUiiiivir.  most  of  the  way  upon  its  ri-^ht  hank.  As 
may  be  supposed,  the  soil  is  of  exuberant  fertility,  and  jiroduces 
everythini;  (hat  can  he  desired,  except,  perhaps,  the  temperate 
fruits.  The  Sierra  Morena  skirts  it  on  the  north-west,  its  steep 
side  is  ornamented,  near  Cordova,  with  numerous  villas,  whose 
white  walls,  flittering  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  could  be 
seen  from  a  great  distance.  The  deserted  Convent  of  San 
Joronimo  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit  in  the  winter,  Avhcn  the 
green  crops  cover  the  earth.  The  view  from  its  terrace  is 
superb,  as  it  is,  indeed,  from  any  jjurt  of  the  patli;  but,  at 
present,  the  heat  of  the  dog-days  had  already  parched  up  the 
vegetation.  This  valley  was  said  by  Cardunue  to  have  con- 
tained, in  the  time  of  the  Beni  Omeyah,  twelve  thousand 
villages;  and  subsequent  writers  for  a  long  time  received  this 
statement  with  wonder,  but  respect,  until  our  countryman, 
Prescott,  suggested  that  there  was  not  adiial  sjiuce  ujxjii  the 
river  banks  for  so  great  a  number,  much  to  the  amusement  of 
certain  Kuropeans.  who  quoted  this  example  of  what  the}-  con- 
sidered American  jn-acticality,  but  tlie}-  atl()})te(l  tlie  result.  It 
seems  that  Cardonne's  error  arose  from  a  mistranslation,  and 
not  from  a  dis])osition  to  invent.  Whatever  might  have  been 
the  case  formei-ly.  at  present  the  towns  are  not  very  numerous, 
and  the  p()i)ulation  is  reduced  to  the  number  requisite  for  the 
cultivation  of  the  soil. 

The  breezy  morn  was  delicious,  and  the  life  around  unbroken 
by  a  single  discordant  feature.  It  was  Andalusia,  and  nothing 
but  Andalusia.  Every  village  had  its  j)hice  in  iiistory  as  the 
scene  of  some  knightly  encouiitci-.  Casiles  and  antique  Moor- 
ish mills  adorned  the  river  bank,  while  the  heights  on  the  right 
were  studded  with  watch  towers.  Beautiful  Andalusians  with 
fans,  crowded  every  station.  The  fine  weather  and  unclouded 
skies  of  summer  had  seduced  the  neighboring  population  into 
the  fields,  and  we  frequentlj''  passed  little  thatched  huts  or 
tents,  the  habitations  of  the  famil}'  since  the  end  of  the  raiu}' 
season,  father,  mother,  and  children  within,  the  pig  and  the 
donkey  witliout,  leading  a  harmonious  existence  together. 
Lowei'  down  the  valley  roamed  those  herds  of  l)ulls  which  fur- 
nish coniltatants  for  the  ring.  The  i-iver  approaches  the  8ierra 
at  the  town  of  Almodovai-  it  lie  i-(»iiih1  castle)  del  ilio,  winding 
around   a  beetliii"'   crag,   wliicli    overhangs   the   Iiaiik   with   its 


PARTY    FROM    LOR  A. ArPROACII    TO    SEVILLE.  157 

ruined  fortress.  M}'  solitude  was  lierc  relieved  by  the  entrance 
of  a  gentleman  from  Lora,  dressed  in  the  Andalusian  costume, 
somewhat  modified  to  suit  the  better  class.  The  modification 
consists  in  substituting  pantaloons  for  the  breeches  and  gaiters. 
He  wore  a  nicely-  fitting,  embroidered  jacket,  a  neck  handker- 
chief, the  ends  passed  through  a  ring,  a  calanes  hat,  round,  Avith 
the  border  turned  stiffly  up  two  or  three  inches.  A  red  sash 
surrounded  his  waist,  and  a  gun  completed  the  whole.  This 
latter  is  an  almost  invariable  accompaniment  of  an  Andalusian 
when  journeying  otf  from  the  immediate  highway.  I  am  afraid 
to  say  how  many  wo  had  on  the  diligence.  The  gun  and  the 
fan  went  together.  My  companion,  like  all  Spaniards,  was 
very  proud  of  his  immediate  locality,  his  pais  and  his  pueblo. 
Being  in  a  state  of  exhihiration.  and  thoroughl}"  tcte  montce  with 
the  near  approach  to  SeviUe,  J  agreed  with  him  to  the  full,  and 
suggested  some  points  which  he  had  overlooked.  This  laid  the 
foundation  of  much  good  feeling.  At  Lora  he  dismounted,  and 
I  was  just  regretting  my  return  to  solitude,  when  the  opposite 
door  opened,  and  a  party  entei-ed.  First,  a  gentleman  of  some 
fifty  summers,  very  subdued  in  look,  as  if  pressed  down  beneath 
the  weight  of  responsibility.  He  was  emphatically  seco  (dried 
up)  muy  seco,  but  not  disagreeably  so.  Then  came  a  good 
humored  mama.  Then  four  young  ladies,  in  great  spirits, 
"  Avith  eyebrows  like  the  new  moon  of  Eamadan,  and  mouth 
like  the  seal  of  Solomon,"  each  handsomer  than  her  prede- 
cessor. Another  mama,  of  the  sub-acid  character,  "  qualis  de- 
cet  esse  duennarum,"  brought  u]i  the  rear,  and  filled  the  coach. 
The  best  looking  took  the  seat  by  me;  another,  opposite;  by 
her  side,  a  mama.  Tlic}"  were  going  to  Seville  to  spend  a  day 
and  shop  a  little;  were  fidl  of  joyous  anticipations,  and  dressed 
out  to  kill.  Flashing  eyes,  black  lace  veils,  a  rose  peeping  out 
from  the  glossj"  folds  of  their  tresses,  and  a  fan,  were  unmis- 
takable evidences  of  their  country.  Every  click  of  the  latter 
was  like  the  crack  of  an  electric  battery.  The  gentleman  and 
m3"self  could  just  see  each  other's  heads  over  the  piles  of 
muslin.  (I  suppose  it  was  muslin,  for  I  am  not  skilled  in  this 
de])ailment.)  As  soon  as  avc  were  well  settled,  and  1  hitd 
recovered  from  the  first  overwhelment,  my  former  com})anion 
came  to  the  window,  and,  ])resenting  me  to  them  in  a  general 
wa}^  added:  "Caballero,  all  these  were  brought  up  in  my 
pueblo.''    I  made  my  acknowledgments,  and  vowed  that,  though 


15S  STAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

Lora  had  appeared  lair  in  inv  eyes  belore,  it  must  now  be  con- 
sidered the  choice  irardeii  of  the  earth.  But  the  opportunity 
afforded  by  the  introduction  was  not  neglected.  The  young 
ladies  were  full  of  fun,  elegant  in  person,  graceful  in  manner, 
and  innocent  in  soul.  Hverytiiing  interested  them,  and  they 
were  interesting  about  everything.  When  some  more  decided 
hilarity  broke  forth,  the  mama  would  look  at  me  with  a  sympa- 
thizing smile,  and  exclaim  :  "Ah,  las  ninasi"  whereupon  "las 
niHas"  would  take  a  fresh  start.  And  so  the  time  passed  until, 
crossing  the  CJuadalquivir,  the  town  of  Carmona,  upon  its  lofty 
hill,  became  a  landmark,  as  we  sped  along  the  now  open 
country',  amid  a  vegetation  that  rioted  in  tropical  luxuriance. 
At  length  the  far  famed  (lirakhi  appeared  above  the  trees.  The 
sight  of  it,  after  so  so  many  years  of  absence,  recalled  the  lines 
of  the  "Ancient  ^[ariner"  wlien  he  approaches  his  native 
town : 

Oil,  dream  of  joy  !  Is  this,  indeed, 

The  light-house  top  I  see? 
In  this  the  hill?  is  this  the  kirk  ? 

Is  this  my  own  countrce  ? 

It  is,  perhaps,  not  easy  to  say  why  1  hailed  Seville  with  such 
jo^^ous  welcome.  Localities  exercise  a  strange,  oftentimes 
inexplicable  influence,  and  when  our  train  entered  the  station, 
I  really  felt  as  though  the  object  of  a  long  journey  had  at 
len<:th  been  attained. 


Chaptkr  TX. 
S  E  V  I  L  L  E  . 

Hotel— The  Barber— Peek  Lodgings— La  Giralda— The  Bells— The  View— Stas. 
Justa  y  Rufina — Promenade — Plaz-a  Isabel  —  The  Scene  —  Costume  of  Spanish 
Ladies — Mantilla — Fan — Beauty  of  the  Ladies — Their  Walk — Their  (5 race — My 
New  Domicile — The  Sercnos — Las  Delicias — Morning  Walk — Scene  in  Winter — The 
Guadaliinivir. 

I  ^vas  not  sorry  to  part  from  tlic  company  at  the  station,  for 
four  young  Andaluzas,  vestidas  de  gala,  with  four  mantillas 
and  four  fans,  all  crowded  into  one  railway  carriage,  were 
rather  trA-ing  to  the  nerves,  so  placing  myself  at  their  feet,  I 
proceeded  to  a  new  hotel  erected  since  my  last  visit.  It  was  a 
great  improvement  over  the  old  Posada.  Do  not  expect,  how- 
ever, one  of  our  Broadway  caravansaries,  full  of  people,  and 
baggage,  and  rich  furniture,  and  huge  chimney  places,  and 
nois}-  bar  rooms,  with  other  comforts  of  a  cold  climate.  Brus- 
sels carpets  and  gilded  decorations  there  were  none  ;  but  then 
there  were  marble  courts  and  splashing  fountains,  cane  bottom 
chairs  and  mats,  camp  bedsteads  and  balconies,  with  a  genuine 
good  humor  on  the  part  of  the  employes,  which  made  3'ou  feel 
yourself  a  part  owner  of  the  establishment. 

The  first  business  was,  of  course,  to  see  old  acquaintances,  at 
least  such  as  one  could  venture  to  visit  at  that  hour  of  the  day. 
Returning,  I  passed  by  my  former  quarters  in  the  Plaza  Sto. 
Tomas,  where  I  had  resided  a  winter,  selecting  the  house  partly 
on  account  of  its  proxinnty  to  the  Cathedral,  the  Alcazar  and 
the  Patio,  partly  because  of  the  Barber  of  Seville,  whose  shop 
was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square,  for  there  is  nothing  like 
living  directly  under  the  influence  of  the  fjeiiius  loci.  You 
smile  at  such  stress  being  laid  upon  the  barber.  But  he  is  not 
in  Andalusia  a  mere  chin-scraper;  he  is  the  factotum.  His 
acquaintance  is  indispensable,  and  you  may  live  a  thousand 
years  in  Spain  and  yet  learn  nothing  of  the  Spaniards  unless 


inl*  SPAIN    AMI    THK    SPANIAnns. 

you  know  llic  Iiarb(M'.  Spaiiijinls.  even  wlicn  bearded,  which 
is  very  rare,  leave  a  little  varant  spot  sonuwhere  lor  the 
ex'^ress  purpose,  I  havi-  tlionirht,  of  ijiviiiu;  :in  excuse  for  visit- 
ing that  fiinctionarv.  If  they  shave  themselves,  still  his 
services  are  required,  half  a  tlozen  times  in  the  course  of  the 
week,  to  trim  their  hair.  In  places  too  poor  to  support  a 
whole  harltcr  reirularly,  he  makes  periodical  visits  on  his  mule, 
with  his  apparatus  and  the  helmet  of  ^lamhrino  slunuj  over 
his  shoulders.  On  out-of-the-way  roads  you  may  meet  him* 
exactly  as  he  is  described  by  Cervantes,  and  his  approach  is 
welcomed  with  all  the  delii>;ht  Mhich  the  dispenser  of  gossip  is 
known  to  awaken.  He  there  retains  the  importance  which 
the  march  of  improvement  in  cities  has  curtailed.  He  is  the 
contidant  of  both  sexes,  and  consequently  knows  the  secrets  of 
the  whole  community.  In  his  ca]>afity  of  barber-suri;eon  he 
heals  the  diseases  of  the  body  as  well  as  the  mind,  and  the 
heart  has  been,  from  time  ininicniorial,  under  his  especial 
superintendence.  In  general,  he  shares  the  esteem  of  the  cora- 
niunity  with  the  priest,  an<l,  on  the  frontier,  with  the  contra- 
bandista.  lie  is  an  established  wit,  too,  and  his  feeblest  Jokes 
cause  hilarity  to  wrinkle  the  soap-suds  upon  the  faces  of  admir- 
ing patients.  Nor  are  his  functions  contined  to  mere  gossip. 
He  can  get  ii])  a  fandango  or  bolero, ^if  desired,  ami  till  any 
chance  vacancy  by  bearing  a  part  himself  The  gniitar  is  a 
jiortion  of  his  being.  Xo  Imij  harhcro  sin  guitarra  ?  What's  a 
barber  without  a  guitar?  No  class  in  society  can  dispense  with 
l>is  services.  The  French  imitate  the  Spanish  in  ap])()inting 
one  for  each  company  or  battalion  of  soldiers.  In  the  day  of 
queues,  it  was  the  fashion,  in  the  Sjianish  army,  for  the  soldiers 
to  sit  in  a  circle,  each  upon  the  knees  of  his  neighbor  behind, 
while  combing  the  bail-  of  his  neighbor  in  front,  to  the  great 
saving  of  time  and  l)arl)ers.  I'lit  the  disai)pearancc  of  queues 
and  beards  bus  ivstorcd  the  lilhe  fraternity  to  their  former 
pre-eminence,  for  it  is  found  no  easy  task  to  shave  and  be 
shaved  simultaneously. 

There  was  little,  however,  id'!  in  the  I'la/.a  Sto.  Tomas  to 
hang  this  barber  ejiisode  upon,  foi-  the  old  shop  was  shut  up  to 
undergo  rej>aii-s.  and  I  was  compelled  to  transfer  my  patroiuige 
to  another  in  the  Calle  de  las  Sier])es.  The  lodging-house  was 
occupied,  too,  so  1  hied  to  a  Iriciid  of  a  friend  of  my  Madrid 
hostes.s — a  ('a<liz  lady — who.  upon   hei"  recommendation,  would 


SEEK    LODGINGS. — LA    GIRALDA.  161 

doubtless  consent  to  accommodute  a  cahallcro  fan  fino  como  vm. 
as  she  was  pleased  to  add.  It  is  never  advisable  to  criticise  a 
compliment,  nor  did  I  stop  to  inquire  whether  the  epithet 
^' gastador"  might  not  have  been  appropriately  inserted  in  the 
recommendation,  for  Spaniards  respect  an  open  hand  A  pull 
at  the  bell-rope  was  followed  by  a  ^' quien  es  ?"  (who  is  it?) 
from  above,  uttered  in  -a  musical  voice,  with  an  Aixhilusian 
iU'cent.  Good  sign  :  the  house  began  to  feel  comfortable  at 
once.  The  reply  of  "  amigo  I"  (friend)  caused  the  door  to  be 
opened  by  a  string  from  above,  and  I  entered  a  modest  Patio. 
The  old  pass-word,  to  obtain  admittance,  used  to  be  "Ave  Ma- 
rw  j)(//v*//»a  .'"  to  which  the  re]»ly  was,  '^  sin  pecado  concehida" 
(conceived  without  sin).  The  common  answer  is,  "  gcnte  de 
paz,"  or  ''  Espaiin,"  but  in  the  cities  these  arc  seldom  heard. 
'^Amigo,"  or  if  it  be  your  own  house,  a  ferocious  "  yo"  answers 
every  ])nrpose  of  a  night  key.  Doiia  Carmen  soon  made  her 
appearance.  When  the  object  of  my  visit  was  announced,  wo 
were  joined  by  two  young  ladies,  one,  apparently'  twenty-five, 
ver}'  talkative  and  lively;  the  other,  the  owner  of  the  voice, 
about  eighteen  j-ears  of  age,  and  I  cannot  say  that  my  expecta- 
tions were  disappointed.  We  mutually  inspected  each  other.  I 
was  more  than  content,  for  I  dislike  to  live  in  a  house  with 
ugly  or  disagreeable  women.  Dona  Carmen  impressed  upon  me 
that  she  was  not  in  the  habit  of  taking  lodgers,  but  that  mine 
was  an  exceptional  case.  I  hinted,  in  reply,  that  1  seldom  went 
into  lodgings  excejit  in  exceptional  cases.  Terms  Avere  soon 
arranged,  and  I  found  myself  installed  upon  the  ground  floor, 
to  avoid  the  heat,  though  I  was  almost  persuaded,  b}*  my  host- 
ess and  her  daughters,  to  believe  that  the  temperature,  notwith- 
standing the  evidence  of  the  tlKM-mometcr,  would  be  freezing, 
for  when  a  handsome  Andaliiza  makes  an  assertion,  however 
improbaltle,  you  find  yourself  ^-ielding  an  unhesitating  assent, 
as  though  it  were  sheer  folly  to  question  its  accuracy. 

As  the  evening  closed  in,  I  wended  my  way  to  the  Cathedral 
Tower — La  Giralda — to  enjoy  the  panorama,  and  to  sec  what 
changes  seven  years  had  wrought  in  the  capital  of  Andalusia. 
This  wondrous  tower,  tlie  admiration  of  all  who  behold  it,  is  the 
work  of  the  Moorish  architect  Geber  or  Guever,  who  undertook 
its  erection,  ])robably,  b}'  the  command  of  Yacoub  al  Mansour, 
in  gratitude  for  the  signal  victory  of  Alarcos.  In  those  dajs  it 
served  the  double  purpose  of  astronomy  and  religion.  Such 
12 


102  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

was  the  affection  felt  for  it.  tliat  wlicii  the  city  was  conquered 
Uy  San  Fi-rnando,  tlic  Moors  intended  its  destruction,  and  wei*e 
deterred  only  hy  the  direful  threats  of  the  Christians.  Suhse- 
quently,  at  the  pulling  down  of  the  old  Mosque,  this  was 
retaine<l  hy  the  chajitcr  on  account  of  its  extraordinary  heauty, 
and  their  decision  has  hcen  sustained  hy  the  unanimous  ap- 
jjroval  (if  travellers.  It  stands  on  the  outside  of  the  Cathedral, 
at  the  north-east  corner,  in  the  ani^le  made  hy  the  wall  of  the 
Patio  de  los  Naranjos.  The  original  tower,  as  erected  hy  the 
Moors,  is  simpl}'  a  square  of  some  fifty  feet,  and  rises  to  the 
height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty,  up  to  the  gallery  where  the 
hells  arc  hung.  Ahove  this  is  a  smaller  continuation  of  a  hun- 
dred feet,  added  hy  a  Spanish  architect,  Fernan  J^uiz,  and, 
unlike  most  continuations,  worthy  of  the  original.  It  contains 
the  famous  clock.  The  whole  is  surmounted  h}'  a  hronzc  figure 
o^  La  /'V  (Faith),  fourteen  feet  in  height,  and  weighing  twenty- 
eight  hundred  ])Ounds,  which  yet  turns  with  the  slightest 
breeze,  and,  hy  a  palm  leaf  in  one  hand,  indicates  its  direction, 
while  the  other  displays  the  Lubaro,  the  banner  of  Constan- 
tine.  The  elevation  of  the  whole  is  more  than  three  hundred 
and  fifty  feet.  The  lower  or  Moorish  portion  is  cliai'miMgly 
decorated  with  balconied  windows,  sustained  by  double  marble 
columns,  and,  after  attaining  a  certain  height,  with  arabesque 
work.  The  Spanish  aildilioii  is  more  elalioratel}'  ornainented. 
hut  the  two  harmonize  l)eautifulh',  and,  at  a  distance,  appear 
of  a  delicate,  ro.sy  hue. 

It  had  been  my  habit,  on  the  former  visit,  to  mount  the 
Giralda  every  evening  at  sunset  for  the  prospect,  so  that  it  was 
prominently  connected  in  my  mind  with  the  charms  of  the 
place.  Even  the  tones  of  the  principal  bells  were  familiar,  and 
I  have  ollcn,  before  retiring,  listened,  in  m}'  house,  on  the  Plaza, 
near  b}-.  for  the  sonorous  ])eal  of  Sta.  Maria,  as  it  boomed  over 
the  city,  announcing  the  hour  of  midnight.  Ascending  the 
ramp,  which  is  so  broad  ami  gently  inclinetl  that  two  horsemen 
have  ridden  up  abreast,  I  reached  my  old  friends.  There  they 
were,  just  as  they  had  been  when  J  last  saw  them.  AH  the 
world  has  acknowledged  the  peculiar  inllueneo  of  the  sound  of 
bells  in  awakening  the  associations  of  memory — more  jxiwerful 
than  even  regular  music.  The  well-known  instance  in  the  life 
of  Napoleon,  who,  after  an  existence  spent  in  war  and  the 
selfish  strife  of  politics,  was  momentarily  overcome  on  hearing 


THE    BELLS.  168 

tlie  sound  of  tlie  bells  of  Bricnne.  stcalino-  up  from  the  valley, 
is  an  illustrious  example.  What  a  moment  was  that !  llow 
reproachfully  beautiful  must  have  appeared  those  daj's  of  chihl- 
hood's  innocence,  when  seen  across  thirty  years  of  ambition  and 
blood  !  Who,  in  our  humbler  lives,  has  not  acknowledy-ed  their 
effect,  when  returuiiiu-  to  a  spot  hallowed  by  recollections  of 
former  hapjiiness?  I  am  sure  1  never  felt  it  more  strongly 
than  in  Seville.  The  church  bells  in  Spain  are  regularly  dedi- 
cated, and  have  bajitismal  names,  as  though  thej^  were  indi- 
viduals. My  favorite  of  these  was  the  large  one  to  the  east, 
within  the  outer  wall  of  the  tower,  called  Sta.  Maria  or  La 
Gorda,  weighing  some  sixteen  thousand  pounds,  the  work  of 
,luan  do  Halabarca,  and  presented  b}'  the  Archbishop  Gonzalo 
de  Mena.  Corresponding,  on  the  western  side  and  nearly  equal 
in  weight,  is  San  Miguel.  At  the  four  cornei's  are  Sta.  Cata- 
lina.  Omnium  Sanctorum,  Sta.  Cruz  and  St.  Jago.  These  are 
all  large,  and  struck  In'  moving  the  clappers — de  golpe.  In  the 
embrazures  of  the  outer  wall,  commencing  on  the  right  of  Sta. 
^laria,  arc  San  Juan  Bautista,  Sta.  Lucia,  San  Jose,  San  Pedro, 
Sta.  Ines,  Sta.  Barbara,  San  Isidro,  San  Pablo,  Sta.  Cecilia,  San 
(Vistobah'San  Fernando,  and  Sta.  Justa — all  de  imelta.  Sunday 
morning,  at  nine,  A.  m.,  is  a  fine  time  for  the  latter.  Sta.  Lucia, 
ill  particular,  is  a  great  sufferer.  Kveiy  liell  has  its  boy,  and 
they  are  made  to  turn  over  frantically  liy  winding  the  rope, 
around  the  axle  and  then  causing  it  to  revolve.  Every  now 
and  then  one  of  the  ringers  goes  flying  up  into  the  air  twenty 
feet,  as  though  he  Avere  about  to  plunge  out  upon  the  Cathe- 
dral ;  it  is  onh'  to  stand  astride  the  axle  and  get  a  better  pur- 
chase, but  it  makes  one  hold  his  breath  to  see  the  performance. 
Last  spring  a  poor  fellow  did  get  his  feet  entangled  in  the  rope, 
and  was,  consequently,  dashed  into  a  thousand  pieces  upon  the 
pavement,  three  hundred  feet  liclow.  One  day  I  determined 
to  find  out  from  the  guardian  the  exact  hours  of  striking  the 
Sta.  Maria.  "A  very  simitlc  matter,"  you  will  say;  "only 
ask."  No  such  thing.  To  get  reliable  information  ahout  the 
smallest  matter  in  Spain  requires  a  regular  system  of  cross- 
examination,  for  Spaniards  are  not  teachers  by  nature.  So 
offering  him  my  petaca,  wc  took  a  seat  on  the  upper  gallery, 
near  the  clock,  and  commenced.  To  the  first  direct  interroga- 
tory he  answered,  *'  High  Mass,  and  at  no  other  time."  By 
dint,  however,  of  hard    work  and  much   reiteration,  I  at  last 


SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

made  out  that  it  oc-c-urrcMl  lour  times  in  the  twenty-lour  liours: 
first,  at  Mihlruqada  or  early  Mass;  secondly,  at  High  Mass, 
uhout  liaU'iiast  nine  o'clock  ;  thirdly,  at  Oraciones ;  and, 
fourtlily,  at  midnight. 

IJiit,  in  talking  ahout  the  hells,  I  have  forgotten  the  prospect, 
and  the  sun  is  getting  low.  Even  those  who  do  not  admire 
Seville,  admit  that  the  ))anorania,  from  the  Giralda,  is  some- 
thing superli.  From  this  great  height,  the  city  and  the  sur- 
rounding c<tuntry  are  laid  out  like  a  maj)  at  your  feet.  The 
narrow,  Moorish  streets  seem  little  lanes,  winding  about  among 
the  white  houses  and  the  domed  temples,  dwarfed  beside  the 
immense  Cathedral,  which  re})oses  directly  undei-neath,  with 
its  thousand  pinnacles  pointing  to  the  world  above.  Then 
comes  the  Lonja  or  Exchange,  with  its  beautiful  court  and 
colonnade.  lieyond  that,  to  the  south-west,  the  enormous  to- 
bacco manufactoiy,  the  ]»al:ice  of  the  Dukes  of  Montjiensier, 
and  the  flowery  Salon  <le  ('inisiiua.  Fai-ther  still,  the  delicious 
Pase<^  with  its  orange  and  leuKjii  groves,  and  the  golden  (Jua- 
dalquivir  coursing  at  its  feet.  To  the  north-west,  the  I'laza  de 
Toros  is  conspicuous.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  extends 
the  gil)sy  faubourg,  La  Triana,  tlic  home  of  the  fancy  of  all 
kinds.  A  little  be^-ond.  across  the  fields,  rises  the  Chaboya,  a 
steep  spur  of  the  Sierra  Morena,*with  the  old  Convent  of  San 
Juan  de  Alfarache,  whence  there  is  such  a  magnificent  view. 
Farther  to  the  north,  lies  the  old  town  of  Castilleja  de  la 
Cucsta,  where  the  conqueror  of  Mexico  lived  and  died.  The 
plain  itself  is  spotted  over  with  villages — Alcalii,  Algaba,  Santi 
Ponce — built  from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Italica,  the  birth- 
place of  the  Iioman  Emperors.  The  back-ground  is  filled  with 
the  Sierra  Morena,  whose  bai'c  summits  are  bathed  in  an  ocean 
of  light.  The  horizon,  on  the  opposite  side,  is  bounded  by  the 
hills  of  Carmona  and  Alcuhi,  and  the  mountain  chain  of  Ronda. 
Seen  from  the  (Jiralda,  Seville  looks  as  though  it  had  never 
known  a  spot  of  dirt,  owing,  doubtless,  to  the  })urity  of  the 
atmosphere,  rather  than  to  any  extraordinary  care  that  is 
taken  of  it.  Two  changes  of  importance  were  visible — the 
grand  Plaza  de  Isabel,  which  makes  a  fine  show  from  this 
])oint,  and  the  iron  bridge  over  the  river,  reidacing  the  former 
one  of  boats — which,  together  with  the  Mos(pie  and  the  repa- 
ration of  the  aqueduct  of  Carmona,  are  attributed  to  Yuscf,  of 
the  dynagty  of  the  Almohades,  in  the  latter  half  of  the  twelfth 


STAS.    JUSTA    Y    RVFTNA. 


L^ 


centmy.  As  the  sun  nearcd  the  horizon,  its  purple  light  trans- 
formed the  whole  into  a  fjxiry  scene,  to  which  all  the  colors  of 
llie  rainbow  contributed.  It  was  difficult  to  realize  that  these 
localities,  intimately  connected,  many  of  them,  with  events 
which  influenced,  more  or  less  remotely,  the  discovery  and 
fortunes  of  our  hemisphere,  and  are,  consequently,  familiar  to 
American  youth  in  the  jiages  of  our  most  gifted  authors,  were 
truly  around  me.  This  cit}'  was  the  favorite  of  Columbus,  and 
the  subsequent  residence  of  his  children;  and  here  are  still 
deposited  the  records  which  contain  the  earl}'  histor}'  of  our 
continent.  Yon  village  is  honored  ly  the  sepulchre  of  his 
family.  From  this  river  sailed  the  great  fleets  which  wei-e  to 
renovate  the  Old  World  b}*  pouring  into  its  lap  the  riches  of 
the  Xew.  Here  Avere  born  the  chivalric  warriors  who  lent 
such  romance  to  our  early  history,  and  the  dialect  of  the  Span- 
ish Americas  attests,  to  the  present  day,  the  influence  of  this 
province  over  their  destinies. 

The  Giralda  is  generall}*  represented,  as  in  the  celebrated 
paintings  of  Murillo,  standing  between  the  two  Saints,  Justa 
and  Rufina,  who  have  preserved  it  against  many  a  storm,  and 
are  its' especial  guardian,  though  their  protecting  care  extends 
over  the  whole  city.  These  ygung  ladies  were  daughters  of  an 
humble  maker  of  earthenware,  who  lived  near  the  gate  of  La 
Triana,  poor  in  worldly  goods,  but  abounding  in  wealth  of 
piety  and  faith.  It  seems  that  one  of  the  Pagan  ceremonies  in 
Seville  was  the  procession  of  Venus  Salambo,  a  Phoenician  god- 
dess, whose  image,  representing  her  in  lamentation  for  the  death 
of  Adonis,  was  carried  about  on  the  shoulders  of  Avomen,  while 
the  crowd  ahead  demanded  contribution  from  all  they  met. 
On  one  occasion  the  procession  halted  in  front  of  the  sisters' 
shop,  with  the  usual  request,  which  the}'  indignantly  refused, 
protesting  that  they  Avorshippcd  one  God,  maker  of  heaven  and 
earth,  and  not  a  senseless  idol.  The  bearers  of  the  precious 
image,  horrified  at  such  impiety,  let  it  fall,  so  as  to  slily  lireak 
the  earthen  pots,  right  and  left;  at  least  that  was  the  result. 
The  two  Saints,  not  to  revenge  the  loss  of  the  i)ots  (  as  the 
historian  carefully  assures  us),  but  to  destro}*  a  heatlien  mon- 
strosity, retorted  upon  the  idol,  which  was  considerably  dam- 
aged in  the  conflict.  They  were  immediatel}'  thrown  into 
prison,  and  tortured  in  every  way  to  make  them  acknowledge 
their  error.     The    IJoniau   Judge   once   forced   them   to   follow 


1G(»  SPAIN    AND    TIIF,    SPANIARDS. 

Iiiin  liarofoot  to  the  Sierra  Moroiia.  Finally,  8ta.  Jiista  died, 
and  lior  body  was  ii^nominiously  cast  into  a  well,  whence  it  was 
rescued  hy  the  Bishop,  and  decently  interred.  Sta.  Rufina  was 
delivered  over  to  a  lion,  hut  he,  as  usual,  refusinir  to  perform 
his  part,  she  was  killed  by  the  executioner,  and  her  body  burnt. 
The}-  died  in  the  true  spirit  of  martyrs,  and  their  fame  extend- 
ed rajtidly  tlirouirhoiit  the  earth.  Churches  were  erected  to 
them,  and  oftices  in  the  Breviary,  both  (Jothic  iiwd  Muzarabic, 
attested  the  efficaej'  of  tlieir  intereossion  altove.  Nor  were 
these  honors  paid  to  them  in  vain,  for  many  a  cit^'did  they  save 
fntni  destruction.  They  have  thus  far  preserved  their  especial 
charjre  from  peril  of  earthtjuake  and  cannon  ball,  and  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the}'  will  long  secure  to  posterity  the  same  grati- 
fication which  has  been  enjoyed  by  past  generations. 

About  nine  o'clock  in  summer,  the  whole  of  Seville  i.ssue8 
forth  to  enjoy  the  evening  air  on  the  Plaza  Isabel,  which  is  the 
favorite  promenade  at  that  hi)ur.  So  following  the  current,  I 
found  myself  in  a  large  parallelogram,  surrounded  by  stately 
buildings  in  the  modern  st^de,  and  half  filled  with  an  innume- 
rable throng  of  all  classes,  some  seated,  some  walking.  Most 
of  the  men  Avere  smoking,  and  most  of  the  women  fanning 
themselves,  with  occasional  intermixtures  of  conversation;  but 
the  great  occupation  of  every  one  is  to  look  and  be  looked 
at.  On  the  first  turn,  I  met  some  of  my  companions  of  the 
morning.  They  had  done  an  immense  amount  of  shopping — 
had  visited  ever}-  ladies'  establishment  in  the  Calle  de  las 
Sierpcs  and  de  los  Francos,  had  caused  half  the  goods  to  be 
taken  down,  and  l)Ought.  I  doubt  not.  five  dollars'  worth,  that 
being  the  usual  way  in  which  ladies  shop.  The  next  divy, 
however,  was  to  l»e  the  grand  finale,  when  all  Seville  was  to  be 
transferred  to  I.iOra.  They  were  delighted  with  the  city  and 
itfl  grandeurs,  not  tliinking  there  could  possibly  be  anything 
like  it  elsewhere.  Though  ni}'  young  acquaintances  had  seen 
little  of  the  world,  it  was  surprising  how  entirely  they  pos- 
sessed most  of  the  advantages  that  travelling  is  supposed  to 
confer,  with  the  sole  exception  of  their  prejudices,  which  re- 
mained almost  intact.  They  left  next  day  in  the  afternoon 
train. 

A  i)ublic  promenade  is  indispensable  to  every  Spanish  city, 
however  small,  and  every  Spaniard  is  sure  to  pass  there  some 
portion  of  the  week.     Particularly  is  this  the  case  in  Andalusia 


THE    SCENE.  167 

and  Valencia.  Tlie  unbroken  clear  weather  continuinuj  during  a 
large  part  of  the  year,  converts  the  occasional  constitutional 
stroll  into  a  daily  habit,  and  an  afternoon  or  evening  walk  is  as 
much  a  matter  of  course,  as  attendance  at  Mass.  Fortunately 
for  strangers,  they  have  thus,  during  the  spring  and  summer, 
an  opportunity  of  soeijig  a  considerable  portion  of  the  popula- 
tion, without  the  necessity  of  resorting  to  letters  of  introduc- 
tion, which  involve  the  sacrifice  of  more  time  than  a  passing 
traveller  can  spare.  Seville  is  the  cit}-  where  this,  as  all  other 
national  customs,  is  seen  in  its  "reatest  perfection.  In  former 
times,  the  Alameda  Vieja  was  the  resort  of  the  fashionable 
world,  where  valiant  cavaliers,  returning  from  the  wars  in 
Germany  or  Ital}',  or  perchance  America,  hastened  to  pa}^  hom- 
age to  the  fail-  dames,  whose  protecting  images  had  cheered 
them  through  many  a  hard  won  field.  In  honor  of  its  historic 
associations,  two  columns  ai'e  erected  at  the  farther  end,  sur- 
mounted respectively  by  statues  of  Hercules  and  Ca'sar.  It  is 
now  almost  entirely  deserted,  except  on  certain  holidays.  The 
little  square  at  the  foot  of  the  Calle  de  lasSierpes — made  by  the 
demolition  of  a  part  of  the  old  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Medina 
Sidonia,  the  Guzmans — succeeded  to  the  pojMilar  favor.  But 
the  great  centre  at  present  is  the  Plaza  Isabel,  on  the  site  for- 
merly occupied  by  the  enormous  Convent  of  the  Franciscans, 
and  a  more  beautiful  scene  than  that  it  presented  on  the  eve- 
ning in  question,  cannot  be  imagined.  The  night  was  Spanish, 
and  who  can  describe  the  glories  of  a  Spanish  summer  night  on 
the  banks  of  the  Guadalquivir  ?  The  mellow  lustre  of  the  moon 
seemed  to  have  overflowed  the  earth,  and  the  blue  vault  of 
heaven  had  given  even  to  the  stone  buildings  around  an  ap- 
pearance of  liquid  silver.  It  was  as  though  the  air  itself  had 
a  visible,  tangible  substance,  and  we  Avere  floating  ui)on  the 
bosom  of  an  enchanted  ocean.  The  lamps  served  but  for  orna- 
ment, and  stood  like  little  points  of  burnished  gold.  Not  a 
cloud  obscured  the  sky.  Odoriferous  breezes  from  the  south 
wafted  gently  over,  as  if  fearing  to  embrace  too  roughly  the 
fair  cheeks  that  sought  their  Avooing.  A  quadru]ile  row  of 
chairs  offered  repose  to  the  indolent  or  weary,  and  from  time  to 
time  some  young  lady  would  take  compassion  u))<)n  a  score  of 
admirers,  by  remaining  where  all  might  approach  within  sound 
of  her  voice  ;  but  the  more  interesting  part  of  the  assemblage 
was  generally  to  be  found  on  the  promenade. 


168  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

The  beauty  of  Spanish  women  has  ever  been  a  siibjeet  of 
admiration  to  all  who  are  endowed  witli  a  ])ereej)tit)n  of  th^; 
lovely.  Yet,  while  aeknowletl^injjf  its  irresistible  power,  there 
18  nothing  so  ditticult  as  to  explain  the  fascination  which  it 
exercises;  for,  unlike  the  rest  of  their  sex,  the  daui:;hters  of 
Andalusia  owe  nothing  to  those  artificial  processes  which  may 
bo  said  to  form  a  jiart  of  the  female  education  elsewhere. 
Their  taste  in  dress  is  excellent,  when  combined  with  simpli- 
city, as  is  generalh"  the  case;  for  they  have  by  nature  very 
little  disj)Osition  to  the  variety  of  colors,  which  appears  to  bo 
the  ruling  passion  of  Parisian  circles.  The  universal  costume 
in  winter,  and  the  usual  one  out  of  doors  in  all  seasons,  is  a 
dark  colored  skirt,  called  a  basquiiia,  titting  close  around  the 
waist  and  extending  to  the  feet,  which  are  thus  concealed.  It 
is  sometimes  kept  in  ])lace  by  leaden  pellets  aliixed  to  the 
border.  The  same  innate  selise  of  delicacy,  or,  perhaps,  an 
intuitive  knowledge  of  the  weakness  of  men  in  believing  no 
charms  equal  to  hidden  charms,  j)reserves  them  I'roni  those 
fearful  exposures  of  neck  and  shoulders,  which  so  shocked  the 
Japanese.  A  delicate  satin  slipper  encases  a  foot  that  would 
not  crusli  a  daisy.  From  the  toj)  of  the  comb,  if  one  be  worn, 
gracefully  fall  the  mantilla's  folds  across  a  gently  budding- 
breast,  where  it  is  confined  by  the  fingers  of  the  wearer's  lel't 
hand,  or  at    times   the   veil  is  thrown   forward  over  the   face, 

when 

Tapandose  la  ciira, 
Descubren  el  corazon. 

From  the  hair,  massed  above  the  temples,  stealthily  peeps  a 
rose,  as  if  hesitating  to  venture  its  humble  beauties  beside  such 
loveliness.  Two  little  curls — guedcjas,  caracoles  de  amor — bear 
it  company.  A  fan  completes  her  costume.  Thus  armed,  the 
maids  of  tlie  (iuadal(]uivir  go  forth  to  conquer  the  world. 

The  use  of  the  black  veil  seems  traditional  in  Spain,  since  it 
is  mentioned  by  the  Iloman  geograj>hcrs  as  a  part  of  the 
ancient  costiinu'  i-xistiiig  in  those  provinces  which  had  not 
full}'  adopted  the  dress  of  the  Conqnei'or,  and  they  describe  it 
as  frequently  thrown  forward  over  the  face  in  the  same  stylo. 
Just  so  has  (he  dark  cloak  or  saguin  been  perpetuated  to  our 
day,  both  as  a  winter  and  a  summer  garment,  notwithstanding 
the  unceasing  war  waged  1)}'  Ibi-eign  tailors  and  milliners  and 
native  c()[)Nists.     In  recreant  Mailrid,   they    have    partly  sue- 


NATIONAL    COSTUIMES    DISAPPEARING.  1G9 

ccodcd,  and  they  have  olitaiiied  a  foothold  even  in  Seville,  so 
far  as  the  men  arc  concerned  ;  but  thei'c  are  occasions  when 
the  old  costume  for  the  ladies  is  still  (fc  rigueur.  The  Church 
here,  as  in  Ivonie,  i-cquires  the  female  head  to  be  covered.  A 
person  entering  uncovered,  would  cause  a  general  rush  of  the 
beadles,  crying  for  life,  "  Cubrense  vvm.  Cubrense  rrm."  On  the 
other  hand,  1  leamit  by  my  own  experience  that  it  is  not  per- 
missable  to  enter  the  Cathedral  embozado — that  is,  with  the 
cloak  thrown  over  the  mouth  and  left  shoulder,  in  the  Spanish 
style.  Neither  is  it  polite  to  retain  the  cloak  in  this  position 
when  addressing-  a  pei-son,  for  the  same  reason  which  required 
the  old  knight  to  withdraw  his  glove  in  shakinjr  hands.  It  is 
a  disarming.  I  agree  with  the  new  school,  that  after  attaining 
a  certain  age  and  a  certain  degree  of  corpulency,  the  jacket 
without  the  cloak  is  not  a  vovy  suitable  garment  for  the  men; 
but  the  national  costume  suits  the  ladies  far  better  than  any 
other  style  they  can  adopt,  and  it  will  be  a  sad  da}-  for  them 
and  for  us  poor  men  too,  when  they  surrender  themselves  to 
the  tyranny  of  the  Parisian  mautua  maker.  The  mantilla  is 
peculiar!}-  becoming'to  the  Spanish  style  of  features,  while  the 
French  hat  presents  the  most  odious  and  hidious  contrast  con- 
ceivable: the  former  lends  additional  attractions — the  latter 
destroys  those  which  alread}'  exist.  One  may  be  insensible  to 
everything  else,  but  the  mantilla  is  irresistible.  A  hasquina,  a 
Cinderella  slipper,  a  mantilla  or  veil,  a  rose  and  a  fan.  are  all 
that  any  Andaluza  needs  to  bring  the  world  to  her  feet. 

But  the  fan!  the  magic  fan!  who  shall  describe  its  wonder- 
ful powers'/  Who  can  sound  the  dejiths  of  its  mysteries? 
Every  movement  of  this  potent  Avand  is  fraught  with  hapf)i- 
ness  or  misery.  In  their  hands  it  positively  speaks,  and  its 
gentle  recognitions  are  far  more  winning  tlian  any  assertions 
of  the  tongue.  It  is  said  to  have  a  language,  a  sort  of  ali)habet 
of  its  own,  but  that  is  doul)tful.  Its  utterances  are  of  the 
magnetic  character,  which  need  no  inter[tretation,  and  are  felt 
i-atlier  than  learnt.  The  art  ol"  managing  it  was  always  to  me 
an  unfathomable  science,  and  though  I  embraced  every  oppor- 
tunity of  becoming  a  jjroficient,  and  actually  took  two  formal 
lessons,  I  failed  utterly  of  success.  It  must  be  said,  however, 
that  my  instructor  had  learnt  by  intuition,  but  unfortunately 
was  not  able  to  teach  by  the  same  method.  I  was  always  told 
that  there  was  only  one  way  of  opening  it,  yet  there  arc  cer- 


170  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

taiiily  five,  for  the  theory  is  almost  as  difficult  as  the  practice. 
But  having,  by  dint  of  hard  study,  acquired,  as  you  fondly 
ima^riiie.  the  requisite  theoretical  knowledi^e.  you  desire  to  sec 
it  einhodied  in  action.  Your  instructor  shows  how  the  finijers 
are  jdaced.  You  are  tiien  told  to  do  "so";  whirr  I  ijoes  the  tan. 
and  it  i^  all  over  before  your  eyes  have  cauirht  the  first  move- 
ment. A  <^entleman  ])resent  at  my  discomtiture,  consoled  me 
by  sayinix  that  he  would  not  respect  a  man  who  could  acquire 
the  art;  that  in  men's  hands  it  was  a  j)ractical  instrument  for 
jtuttinijf  the  air  in  motion.  The  ladies  certainly  do  not  so 
rci^nrd  it. 

1  had  been  apprehensive  lest  this  costume,  rendered  so  poet- 
ical by  the  descriptions  of  travellers  and  the  dreams  of  roman- 
cers, were  not  the  true  secret  of  the  admiration  which  I  had 
Ibrmerl}-  carried  away  across  the  Pyrenees,  and  that  it  was  a 
reflected,  semi-poetic,  semi-romantic,  at  all  events  unsubstantial 
conception.  Such  is  not  the  case.  On  the  present  occasion 
the  prevailing  color,  in  accordance  with  the  season,  was  white; 
and  the  mantilla  was  replaced  by  a  simple  lace  veil,  so  that 
there  is  certainly  some  external  attraction  independent  of 
dress.  I  atti-ibute  it  to  the  combination  of  personal  beauty, 
such  as  the  woi'ld  cannot  surpass,  with  a  grace  of  movement, 
an  innate,  inalienable  elegance  of  manner,  which  no  education 
can  give  and  no  words  describe.  An  Andaluza  is  born,  not 
made.  Not  too  tall  and  never  dumpy;  (horrible  word!)  her 
person  is  so  ex(|uisitely  pn^portioned,  that  without  some  meas- 
ure of  comparison,  you  would  form  no  opinion  as  to  her  real 
size.  An  elegant  fullness  preserves  hei'  alike  from  the  scrawny 
penury  of  the  English  or  the  corpulenc}'  of  the  Italians.  Her 
lofty  brow  justifies  her  sparkling  wit,  and  the  delicate  organi- 
zation of  her  feelings  and  intellect  is  in  harmony  wilh  the 
finely  chiseled  features.  Luxuriant  masses  of  dark,  glossy 
hair,  parted  slightly  on  one  side,  and  nobly  arched  eyebrows, 
are  a  fit  setting  to  a  rich  Southern  complexion,  not  of  sickly 
yellow,  but  of  a  clear  olive  tinge,  through  which  the  timid 
blood,  with  every  emotion,  mantles  to  the  surface.  The  pride 
of  her  beauty  is  the  lai-ge,  lustrous,  almond-shaped,  velvety 
e3"e,  half  covered  with  silken  lashes,  as  if  to  screen  her  admir- 
ers from  the  danger  of  being  consumed;  but  when  aroused  into 
activity,  flashing  forth  pride,  interest,  incxhaustil)le  love,  with 
a  tire  more  irresistible  than  that  of  a  thousand  suns.     Then  it 


BEAUTY. WALK.  171 

is  that,  with  an  imperious  wave  of  tlic  fan,  she  bids  you  phini;-e 
into  a  maelstrom  of  vijiers  and  3-ou  obey. 

Tliere  is  a  widely  ditl'used.  but  very  erroneous  belief  amoni; 
us  that  every  Spaniard  has  perforce  black  eyes  and  a  dark 
complexion.  Such  is  far  from  being  true  eveii  in  Andalusia. 
Ladies  of  the  better  class,  who  are  not  exposed  to  the  sun  or 
wind,  have  beautifully  clear  complexions,  though  brunette.  In 
Konda,  blue  eyes  form  the  majority,  and  they  arc  by  no  means 
uncommon  in  other  provinces.  But  the  Spanish  blonde  is  still 
a  Spaniard,  and  her  type  of  beauty  very  different  from  the 
insii)id  combination  which  often  passes  under  that  name  in  the 
north.  There  is  the  same  smothered  fire,  the  same  deep  ex- 
pression in  the  eye,  the  same  richness  of  complexion,  which, 
in  union  with  raven  tresses,  form  an  exquisite  picture  Light- 
haired  person.s — nthias — ai-e  rarer,  and  of  course  much  admired 
to  look  at,  though  every  one  falls  in  love  with  their  dark- 
haired  rivals.  Of  the  luxuriance  and  elegance  of  their  hair 
the  ladies  are  justly  proud,  and  no  pains  are  spared  to  render 
it  as  l)eautiful  as  possible.  The  time  devoted  to  this  object  is 
sacred  in  all  classes,  and  if,  in  response  to  an  inquiry  or  request, 
the  ominous  reply  is  heard,  "hombre!  estamos  oriipadas  con  <i 
2)elo,''  it  is  useless  to  remain.  Nothing  short  of  another  inva- 
sion of  the  Moors  could  arouse  them.  During  the  civil  war 
Zumalacarregui,  or  Merino,  for  it  is  narrated  of  both,  placed 
death  for  the  men  and  loss  of  their  hair  for  the  Avomen,  upon 
the  same  footing,  and  found  them  equally  efficacious  punish- 
ments. 

Spanish  girls  are  taught  to  walk  gracefully,  too,  as  all  girls 
should  be,  and  since  the  narrowness  of  the  streets  prevents  the 
general  use  of  carriages,  and  the  arms  of  gentlemen  are  seldom 
ojffered  and  never  accepted,  they  avoid  falling  into  the  tottering 
shutHe,  which  is  produced  by  the  o]>])Osite  customs.  The  walk 
of  the  Seville  ladies  is  something  peculiar  to  Andalusia.  That 
they  take  steps  is  firmly  believed  because  required  by  the  ana- 
tomical construt-tion  of  mankind,  but  in  their  case  the  belief  is 
the  result  of  induction,  not  of  ocular  perception.  The}'  glide 
over  the  earth  as  though  supported  by  unseen  liands,  and  dis- 
appear from  jour  sight  ere  you  can  believe  that  they  are 
actually  moving.  Who  can  gaze  upon  them  witliout  inwardly 
repeating  the  oft  quoted,  ever-applicable  lines — 


172  SPAIN    AND   TUT.    SPANIARDS. 

Avcrtcns  rost-a  cervicc  rcfiilsit 
Ambrosiaeqiie  comae  divinmn  vertioe  odorem 
Spiravt-rc  ;  pciicf"  vcstis  defluxit  ad  iinos, 
Et  rcra  inccssu  ]>atuit  Deu. 

The  Anilalusian  foot  is  a  marvel,  liotli  for  size  and  bcantj. 
A  la«ly  will  wear  with  ease  the  slipper  of  an  ordinary  jj^irl  of 
fourteen.  If  any  artificial  means  are  used,  the  pressure  must 
be  very  slif^lit,  as  the  appearance  is  perfectly  natural,  notwith- 
standiim  the  fact  that  the}-  seldom  adopt  an}-  other  means  of 
locomotion.  The  develojinient  of  the  En<ijlish  undei-standin<; 
is  a  sul)ject  of  perpetual  wonderment  on  the  Guadahjuivir, 
where  they  are  accustomed  to  compare  its  covering  to  a 
twelve  oared  boat. 

The  ijraceful  walk  of  the  Sevillanas  is  not  more  peculiar  to 
them  than  the  noble  carriage  of  the  head,  due,  doubtless,  in 
some  degree  to  the  absence  of  those  fragile,  yet  cumbrous 
ornaments  which  force  others  to  assume  a  stiff  and  constrained 
]>osition.  It  gives  them  an  air  of  haughtiness  b}-  no  means 
di.sagreeable,  however,  as  j-ou  are  quite  ready  to  admit  their 
unapproachable  superioritj''  before  they  assert  it.  Ever}-  Anda- 
luza  has  two  points  of  beauty — fine  eyes  and  hair.  Then  she 
may  have  a  good  complexion,  and  she  is  almost  certain  to  be 
graceful.  If  to  these  she  unite  wit  and  cultivation,  who  so 
daring  as  to  deny  her  pre-eminence?  Progress,  perhaps  more 
change,  is  desirable  in  many  things  in  Spain,  but  that  Heaven 
may  preserve  her  fair  daughters  from  the  hand  of  innovation 
is  the  prayer  of  native  and  foreigner  alike.  It  is  scarcely  pos- 
sible that  the  best  laid  schemes  of  any  power  on  earth  could 
effect  an  impi-ovement.  Better  resign  the  (Quixotic  attempt, 
and  leave  the  lonely  traveller  despairingly  to  exclaim, 

0!  si  yo  njicifi-a  cie;'o, 

0  ti'i  .«in  beldad  nacicra  !  ^P^ 

No  wonder  the  hours  glided  by  imperceptibly.  About  eleven 
o'clock  the  company  began  to  tlispersc.  The  music  had  taken 
its  departure  at  the  ajjpointed  time,  with  praiseworthy  i)uiic- 
tuality,  and  in  a  half  houi-  the  square  was  deserted.  Sta. 
Maria  was  sending  forth  its  booming  peal  of  midnight,  as  I 
slowly  retraced  my  steps,  through  the  silent  streets,  to  my 
domicile.  In  the  meantime,  everything  had  been  arranged  in  a 
style  above  criticism,  though  not  in  any  excess  of  luxuriance. 


MY    DOMICILE. — WATCHMEN.  173 

The  floor  was  covered  with  one  of  those  beautiful  mats,  tlie  art 
of  making  which  has  been  handed  down  from  the  Moors,  and 
is  still  practiced  with  mucli  skill  in  various  parts  of  the  city, 
])articularly  by  the  gipsies.  A  table,  a  few  plain  chairs,  a 
mirror,  a  cane  settee  and  a  wardrobe,  completed  the  list  of  the 
furniture.  All  the  linen  was  scrupulousl}^  clean.  Upon  this 
score  I  have  never  had  cause  to  complain  in  the  humblest 
posada.  Wherever  I  have  succeeded  in  getting  a  bed  at  all,  it 
has  been  of  the  color  of  snow.  Half  the  money  a  Spaniard 
spends  on  himself  goes  to  his  linen,  which,  if  he  can  afford  it, 
is  embroidered  in  the  most  costly  style.  It  is  his  iu.xiiry,  and 
clean-shirt  day  is  certain  to  find  him  in  a  good  humor.  There 
was  a  net  over  the  bed,  too,  for  there  are  mosquitoes  at  Seville, 
but  such  misei-able  ajiologics  !  No  more  to  be  compared  with 
our  sonorous  and  ])owerful  beasts,  the  gallinipper  grandisoncns, 
than  Mount  Vesuvius  is  with  Cotopaxi.  Everywhere  in  Europe 
an  American  finds  a  justification  for  his  national  pride. 

I  was  not  in  the  humor  for  sleep.  The  spirit  of  the  past  Avas 
upon  mo  with  its  recollections  and  meditations.  The  watch- 
man under  my  window  cried  out,  "  La  una  de  la  noche  y  sere- 
c-e-eno,"  "  Las  dos  de  la  noche,"  &c.,  &c.,)  one  o'clock  at  night, 
and  clear,  &c.,  &c.,)  and  he  was  crj'ing  the  third  hour  when  I 
retired  only  for  a  nap,  for  I  was  up  with  the  sun.  The  guar- 
dians of  the  night  in  Seville  remind  one  of  a  former  gejiera- 
tion,  as  the}-  go  about  in  their  sheep  skin  cloaks,  with  long 
staves  and  lanterns.  Indeed,  they  might  be  legitimately  traced 
to  the  Addaraboun  of  the  floors,  except  that  thc}^  were  also 
provided  with  a  dog  to  give  warning  of  tiie  approach  of  a  rob- 
ber, and  perha))s  to  give  the  latter  a  friendly  hint  of  the  dan- 
gerous neighborhood.  True  they  have  the  keys  of  the  houses, 
and  let  in  a  belated  occupant,  whose  porter  has  retired  to  rest, 
and  they  will  also  accompany  3-ou  honie,  if  3'ou  have  lost  the 
wa}-,  which  it  is  very  casj-  to  do  in  these  crooked  streets,  all 
resembling  each  other,  but  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  how  they 
pass  the  rest  of  the  time.  A  fire  is  something  unheard  of, 
probably  the  oldest  inhabitant  has  never  known  one  to  take 
place,  and  it  seems  no  part  of  their  business  to  interfere  with  a 
little  peaceable  fighting,  unless  it  amount  to  an  etneute.  I 
remember  once  striking  a  Berlin  watchman — who  was  springing 
his  rattle  witii  delil)eratc  frenzy  under  the  window — quite  dumb 
with  amazement,  either  at  my  ignorance  or  impertinence,  by 


174  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPANIAUnS. 

askini;  him  the  locality  of  the  tire.  lie  evidently  thou-;ht  I 
was  attempting  to  "chawf"  him.  A  Seville  brother  would, 
under  similar  cireumstanees,  ]irol)a!)ly  experience  the  same 
emotions  as  Schultz  did.  They  are,  however,  standing,  or 
rather  sleecping,  evidences  of  the  fine  climate,  for  from  the 
eternal  fair  weather  and  their  continually  crying  out  "Sereno," 
they  eiijo}'  that  name  throughout  the  Peninsula. 

The  next  day,  after  a  cup  of  chocolate,  I  strolled  thi-ough 
the  (Jate  of  Jerez  to  the  Promenade  on  the  Guadalquivir, 
known  b\'  the  appropriate  appellation  of  "Las  Delicias."  It 
commences  at  the  "  Torre  de  Oro,"  which,  after  being  attributed 
to  various  historical  characters,  is  now  believed  to  be  Moorish. 
Could  it  speak,  it  might  many  a  tale  unfold.  Treasures,  both 
animate  and  inanimate,  have  been  guarded  within  its  walls. 
It  has  been  a  prison,  too,  and  some  have  entered  that  little 
door,  who  were  never  to  behold  the  day  again.  The  Prom- 
enade lies  between  the  river  bank  and  the  garden  attached  to 
the  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Montpensier,  whose  orange  trees 
suspend  their  golden  fruit  above  the  fair  promenaders.  Far- 
ther down  it  expands  into  a  Avood  interspersed  with  alleys  and 
flower  beds.  Most  of  the  distance  the  river  is  straight,  but  at 
the  end  of  the  promenade  gently  curves  south-westerly,  so  as 
to  bring  the  whole  city  in  view  at  the  extremity  of  the  vista. 
There  are  few  as  lovely  scenes  in  Spain,  and  it  is  ditticult  to 
say  whether  it  be  more  favorably  viewed  at  sunrise  or  sunset. 
The  stately  Cathedral,  with  its  delicate  tracery  of  Gothic, 
towers  above  the  trees,  surmounted  by  the  still  loftier  (Jiralda 
at  its  si<le.  From  this  jjoiiit  can  its  vast  tliniensions  be  best 
ajtjjreciated.  A'arious  convents  ami  churches  bear  it  worthy 
companionship.  On  the  western  bank  is  the  faubourg  of  La 
Triana,  and  in  the  foreground  the  triad  of  lonely  ]ialm8, 
which  every  traveller  should  remember  as  sole  living  relies  of 
the  former  conquerors.  lietwcen  the  two  flow  the  pink  and 
purple  behued  waters  of  the  Guadalquivir,  enlivened  by  nu- 
merous little  craft  and  fishing  smacks  that  ply  to  San  Lucar 
and  Cadiz;  and  if  the  hour  be  early,  the  steamer  down  the 
river  will  disturb  the  quiet  of  the  scene,  recalling  you  from 
your  revery,  and  reminding  you  that  you  are  not  on  the  banks 
of  the  Tigris,  in  the  reign  of  llaroun  al  Rashid.  Over  all 
reigns  the  indescribable  charm  of  an  Andalusian  landscape, 
like  the  delicate  odor  of  a  bouquet.      Though   the   middle  of 


APPEARANCE    IN    SPRING. —  THE    GUADALQUIVIR.  175 

the  clay  is  intensely  -wai^m.  the  character  of  the  Spanish  soil 
causes  a  great  radiation  of  heat  during  the  night,  and  the  con- 
figuration of  the  country  keeps  Die  air  continually  in  motion. 
In  the  morning,  tiiere  is,  consequently,  a  delicious  breeze  blow- 
ing ah)ng  the  river,  which  old  and  young  are  anxious  to  enjoy; 
and  as  the  population  is  ver}-  sociably  inclined  and  abounds  in 
leisure,  I  i'requently  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  casual  conver- 
sation with  persons  who  seemed  to  have  no  more  al>sorbing 
occupation  than  myself  The  winter,  however,  or  spring,  is 
the  heyday  of  Las  Delicias.  The  air  being  then  too  chilly  for 
the  nightly  promenades  on  the  Plaza  Isabel,  all  people  of 
leisure  (and  how  many  does  not  that  include  in  a  Spanish 
city  ?)  meet  here  about  an  hour  before  sunset  for  ever}^  con- 
ceivable purpose.  The  fairer  sex,  I  fear,  to  show  a  new  man- 
tilla, or  to  displa}^  the  power  of  that  most  potent  weapon,  a 
Spanish  fan  ;  the  ruder  to  be  remorsely  slaughtered,  willing 
victims  to  the  sweetest  of  sacrifices;  the  old  to  take  in  large 
draughts  of  pure  air,  which  here  supply  the  place  of  the  re- 
nowned medicaments  of  IJrandrcth  and  Jayne;  the  children 
of  the  better  sort  to  drive  about  in  sheep  and  goat  carts,  or  to 
lead  gail}'  caparisoned  laml)s  with  a  string,  while  the  humbler 
class  are  intent  in  pursuit  oi' cuartos,  b}-  offering  lighted  matches 
for  extinguished  cigars.  The  carriage  way  is  filled  with  equip- 
ages— some  of  most  venerable  appearance,  others  of  the  latest 
elegance,  and  prancing  steeds  occupy  the  centre.  Perfect 
equality  and  good  humor  characterize  the  whole.  11^,  amid  ;ill 
these  combustible  elements,  the  old  couplet, 

El  hombre  es  fucgo,  la  muger  estopa, 
Viene  el  iliiiblo  y  sopla, 

or, 

Man  is  fire  and  woman  tow, 
Comes  the  devil  and  gives  a  blow, 

is  sometimes  verified  by  an  example,  it  is  a  not  unnatural  con- 
sequence. 

The  Guadalquivir — the  poet-sung  Eaetis  of  the  Ancients,  the 
Great  River,  the  Wady  '1  Kebir  of  the  Moors — gives  Seville  a 
pre-eminence  over  other  Spanish  cities,  for  none  can  boast  so 
noble  a  stream  to  do  it  homage.  We,  who  luxuriate  in  the 
majesty  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  may  be  disappointed  at  its 
size,  but  in  parched  and  thirsty  Spain  it  has  ever  formed  a  fit 
subject   for  poets   and    novelists.     Even   in   our   own   distant 


176  SPAIN    AND    TIIE    SPANIARDS. 

country  its  naim*  is  siii;<j;cstive  of  visions,  that,  perlmps.  liavo 
scarce  existence  l»eyon<l  the  boundaries  of  Dreanihuul.  Spring- 
ing from  tlie  Sierras  of  Alcaraz  and  Cazorhi,  and  fretting  be- 
neath tlie  enormous  crags  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  it  pursues  a 
south-westerl}^  direction  amid  the  fertile  fields  and  olive  plan- 
tations of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Jaen,  by  the  cities  of  Baeza 
and  Ubeda.  Thence  by  Andujar,  famous  for  its  earthenware, 
and  the  steel-renowned  Alcolea,  with  the  noble  bridge  to  Cor- 
dova, the  city  of  the  Caliphs,  where  it  first  becomes  navigable. 
Thence  to  Seville,  Avhose  orange  groves  it  threads,  and  turning 
the  last  spur  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  winds  its  tortuous  course 
through  the  uninteresting  pasture  lands  lielow,  to  pour  its 
watei's  into  the  broad  Atlantic.  It  was  distinguished  among 
the  timid  inarincrs  of  the  old  world  by  the  mysterious  el»b  and 
flow  of  the  tide,  and  supposed  moreover  to  communicate  a 
golden  tinge  to  the  famous  wool,  famous  even  at  that  early 
day. 

Bactis  olivifera  erinem  rediraite  corona, 
Aurea  qui  nitidis  vellera  tingis  aquis. 

In  sculpture  and  ])aintinL!:,  it  still  rejoices  in  its  olive  crown  ; 
but  its  waters  no  longer  groan  beneath  the  weight  of  treasure- 
laden  fleets.  It  maj'  be  easy  to  find  streams  more  beautiful 
than  the  Guadalquivir,  as  it  is  possible,  perhaps,  to  surpass  the 
Khine,  but  there  hangs  about  these  two  rivers  an  attraction 
which,  though  intangible,  has  a  real  existence,  and  which 
thousands  of  years  and  millions  of  castles  could  not  give  to 
the  Seine  or  the  Thames. 


Chapter  X. 
T  11  E    C  A  T  II  E  D  II  A  L    AND    P  A  1  N  T  I  X  G  S  . 

Its  Foundation  —  The  Patio  do  los  Naraiijns  —  General  Impression  —  Description — 
The  llctablo  —  Sacred  Music  —  Sculptures — Paintings  —  Marshal  Soult  —  The 
Guardian  An.2:els  —  Tombs— Church  Fca.'-ts  — The  Virgin  —  Grand  Effect  of  the 
Cathedral  —  Paintings  in  La  Caridad  —  The  Museo  —  Murillo's  Conceptions. 

The  principal  mouumeut  at  Seville  is  the  Cathedral — la 
Iglesia  Mayor — the  largest  and  gi-andcst  in  all  Spain,  and  for 
impressive  effect  unequalled  in  the  Avorld,  even  by  the  Basilica 
of  St.  Peter's.  The  characteristic  excellencies  of  the  principal 
Spanish  Cathedrals  are  enumerated  in  the  following  quatrain  : 

Sevilla  en  grandcza, 
Toledo  en  ri(iueza  ; 
Compostclla  en  fortaleza, 
Leon  en  sutileza. 

Tradition  has  pointed  out  the  spot  as  the  site  of  the  tem])les 
of  the  various  religions  which  have  successively  ruled  at  Seville, 
commencing  Avith  the  goddess  of  the  Phoenicians.  The  Moorish 
Mosque,  erected  by  Yusouf,  the  Almohade,  and  completed  by 
Yacoub  al  Mansour,  his  son,  was,  after  the  reconquest,  purified 
and  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  the  true  God,  or,  as  the 
Mohammedan  authors  complain,  to  the  adoration  of  idols;  but 
in  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century,  it  had  been  so  much 
injured  by  earthquakes,  that  the  Chapter  determined  to  pull  it 
down,  and  to  erect  in  its  place  a  temple  worthy  of  the  city  and 
of  their  religion.  In  the  year  14Ul,  the  Beneficiaries  of  the 
Cathedral  being  assembled,  it  was  resolved  "that,  inaemuch  as 
the  Church  is  daily  threatened  with  ruin,  from  the  shocks  it 
has  received,  and  is  about  to  fall  in  various  places,  another  be 
built,  such  as  shall  find  no  equal,  and  shall  correspond  to  tKe 
greatness  and  authority  of  Seville;  and  that  if  tlie  funds  of 
13 


178  SPAIN'    AND    THE    SPANIARHS. 

the  Church  l»e  not  puffioiont,  everyone  shall  contribute  from 
his  salary  what  may  he  neeessarj-."  (Digeron  que  por  quanto 
la  Yglesia  de  Sevilla  amena/aba  cada  dia  runia  por  los  terre- 
motos  quo  ha  habido  y  est:!  para  caer  por  muehas  partes,  que 
8C  labre  otra  igk-sia  tal  y  tan  buena,  que  no  haya  otra  su  igual, 
y  que  se  considere  y  atienda  a  la  grandeza  y  autoridad  de  Sevilla, 
V  su  ii^lesia  conio  nianda  su  razon  y  que,  si  para  olio  no  bastare 
la  renta  do  la  obra,  digoron  todos  quo  so  tonic  do  sus  rontas  de 
cada  uno  lo  quo  bastaba,  quo  olios  jo  dai-aii  on  sorvicio  do  Hios.) 
And  one  of  the  Chapter  ad<iod :  "lot  us  build  a  church  so  great, 
that  tiioso  who  see  it  tinishod  will  boliovo  us  mad."  Most  noble 
resolve,  most  noble  Chapter,  and  most  nolily  did  tlioy  acconi- 
pli.sh  their  proposed  object  I  AViihout  the  aid  of  j)i'incos  or 
taxes,  b}'  their  own  savings  and  tho  assistance  of  alms  from 
the  faithful,  they  erected  the  marvel  of  Andalusia.  The  exte- 
rior, like  that  of  most  Gothic  cathedrals,  is  not  impressive 
when  soon  from  near  by;  though  occupying  a  large  square,  it 
is  not  disfigured,  as  is  usually  the  case,  by  mean  houses.  In- 
deed, it  is  rather  fortunate  than  otherwise  in  its  environs.  To 
the  north,  on  the  opposite  sido  of  the  street,  tho  liousos  are 
j)roserved,  as  though  tho  Moors  had  doi)arted  but  yesterday; 
and  the  little  colonnade  is  said  to  be  devoted  to  tho  same 
trades  that  were  carried  on  in  tho  same  place  six  hundrod 
yeai"s  ago.  On  the  oast  is  the  Archbishop's  palaoo.  The 
Alcazar  and  the  Ijonja  lie  to  the  south,  while  tho  Cathedral 
itself  is  surrounded  by  a  torraoo,  slightly  olovatod  above  the 
level  of  the  street.  Tlie  western  fnnit,  as  usual,  is  not  finished. 
A  groat  man}'  reasons  ai-c  given  for  this  peculiarity  about 
Spanish  cathedrals.  Some  say  it  is  to  avoid  a  paynuMit  which 
was  due  to  liome  upon  tho  completion  of  over}'  religious  edi- 
fice ;  others  say  to  escape  the  olfocts  of  the  "evil  eye;"  otlun-s 
a  prosaic  want  of  funds.  IJo  tho  reason  what  it  niay,  Spanish 
churches  are  seldom  entiroly  oomploto.  Tho  out I'aiioe  by  the 
north  is  through  i^a  Puorta  del  Pordon,  which  leads  iulo  the 
I'atio  de  los  Naranjos,  (the  court  of  the  orange  trees,)  sur- 
rounded on  three  sides  by  the  lofty  walls  of  the  Parish  Church 
and  tho  Library.  The  Patio,  its  fountains,  the  horse  shoe  gate 
of  the  Perdon,  are  all  Moorish  and  fine  specimens.  In  the  early 
moi-uing  or  afternoon  this  is  a  delightful  sjiot  to  while  away 
the  hour,  listening  to  tho  hubhling  of  the  fountains  and  the 
conversation  of  the  water  carriers  who  eomc  hero  to  fill  their 


PATIO    DE    LOS    NARANJOS.  179 

casks,  while  the  breeze  rustles  amid  tlie  dark  green  leaves  and 
yellow  fruit  of  the  orange  trees,  and  the  fairy  Giralda  towers 
majestically  over  head  in  silent  beauty.  Most  of  the  Cathe- 
drals, built  upon  the  sites  of  Moorish  mosques,  retain  the 
entrance  coui-t  and  the  ioiiiitain  foi-  ablution,  which  was  neces- 
sary to  the  Moluunniedan  worship.  To  the  east  of  the  Patio, 
near  the  librarj-  entrance,  is  the  stone  pulpit,  which  the  inscrip- 
tion pronounces  to  have  served  St.  Vincent  and  other  persons 
of  distinction  in  the  Church.  The  Library  itself,  as  most 
lil)raries,  is  uninteresting  enough  to  the  sight,  but  precious  to 
the  mind,  as  it  consists  principallj-  of  books  presented  by  Fer- 
nan  Columbus,  with  manuscripts  of  the  great  navigator  him- 
self, and  hence  styled  La  Colomblna.  It  contains,  moi-covcr,  a 
great  many  historical  souvenirs  of  the  re-conquest  and  subse- 
quent periods.  The  Sagrario  or  Parish  Church,  on  tlie  opposite 
site  of  the  Patio,  Avould  be  considered  handsome  if  it  were  not 
in  such  immediate  proximity  to  the  Cathedral.  Some  of  its 
wood  carvings  are  beautiful,  particularly  the  altar-piece  and 
the  Sta.  Veronica  above ;  and  a  figure  of  St.  John  is  also  Avell 
worthy  of  remark. 

The  old  Sagrario  near  the  gale  of  (he  Patio,  is  converted  into 
a  sort  of  vestiary.  The  Catlu'(lral,  on  my  first  visit,  bein*'- 
closed,  as  the  siesta  was  not  quite  over,  I  took  a  seat  here  to 
await  the  opening  of  the  doors.  The  sun's  rays  poured  fiercely 
down,  I>ut  within  ail  was  delightfull}^  fresh  and  cool.  The 
altar-boys  were  engaged  in  the  elevating  occupation  of  stand- 
ing on  their  heads  for  a  wager,  while  in  the  next  apartment, 
separated  b}'  a  screen,  some  functionar}-  snored  away  with  the 
reverberating  snort  of  a  Mississippi  high-pressure.  The  ex- 
ample was  catching.  I  took  one  of  the  sweetest  naps  that  ever 
fell  to  my  lot.  Soon  the  grating  of  the  doors  awakened  me, 
and  I  entered  the  glorious  edifice.  Without  all  had  been  full 
of  glare,  almost  blinding;  here  a  faint,  mellow  twilight  floated 
among  the  lofty  columns,  scarceh'  disturbing  the  solemn  gloom 
which  hushed  one  into  an  involuntary'  silence.  The  sound  of 
footsteps  was  lost  in  its  immensity,  though  its  size  could  only 
be  appreciated  ly-  comjtarison  with  some  of  the  human  sjjccies. 
Since  leaving  Seville,  1  have  had  an  opportunity  of  revisiting 
most  of  the  media>val  cathedrals,  and  I  can  truly  say  that 
none  of  them  compare  with  this  in  inspiring  the  feeling  of 
grandeur  in  the  object  and  humility  in  the  subject,  which  is  the 


ISO  SPAIN    ASP    THF.    SPANIARDS. 

peculiar  merit  of  the  Gothic  architecture.  I  have  twice  been 
to  the  Minster  of  Strasbour*^  for  the  express  purpose  of  com- 
paring; tliem.  but  it  has  ai)peare(l  coUl  and  impressionless — 
sterile,  so  to  sj^eak,  wliereas  the  soul  must  be  hard  indeed 
that  can  enter  liere  and  not  feel  inspired  with  an  overwholm- 
\nfr  sense  of  awe  and  reverence.  Its  founders  were  truly 
impressed  with  the  divine  conception  of  relii^ion.  Nowhere 
else  is  the  Cliristian  thought  so  appropriately  expressed  in 
stone;  and  if  I  were  to  select  the  two  edifices  of  Christendom 
that  had  most  snccessfiilly  attained  the  end  for  whicli  tliey 
were  erected,  it  would  \)v  the  ('athedrals  of  Milan  and  Seville, 
the  exterior  of  the  former  ami  the  interior  of  the  latter  being 
respectively  all  that  cuuld  ivasuiKiltly  be  demanded  of  archi- 
tecture 

The  ground  ]thin  is  tliat  of  the  Mosque,  which  preceded  it, 
being  a  jtarallelogram  of  some  tour  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length  and  more  than  three  hundred  and  fift}'  in  width,  with 
large  chapels  on  the  northern  and  southern  sides.  Between 
these  are  the  five  aisles,  extending  east  and  west,  formed  Viy 
noble  colonnades  and  surmounted  by  graceful  arches,  sustaining 
the  roof,  some  eighty  or  a  hundred  feet  above.  There  are  in 
fact  seven  aisles,  but  two  of  them  are  occupied  by  the  lateral 
chapels.  The  centre  aisle  and  the  transept,  forming  the  cross, 
are  more  elevated,  attaining  the  enormous  height  of  a  hundred 
and  forty-five  feet,  while  the  dome  is  still  more  lofty.  JJich  as 
the  Cathedral  is  in  treasures  of  every  description,  in  paintings, 
sculpture,  jewels,  it  contains  nothing  gaudy  or  sti-iking,  with  a 
single  exception — no  huge  frescoes  to  divert  the  attention  from 
the  great  end  of  the  architect.  The  eighty-seven  windows, 
painted  in  the  most  beautiful  style  of  mediaeval  German  art.  to 
represent  Scripture  scenes,  some  of  them  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
in  length,  are  scarcely  noticed.  l*]veiytliing  has  been  made 
subservient  to  the  jjurpose  of  elevating  the  creature  to  the  con- 
templation of  the  great  Creator,  in  whose  hands  are  all  the 
corners  of  the  earth.  Truly  does  it  merit  the  distinction  of 
"  La  Grande."  llow  much  nobler  an  aspiration  than  that  of 
the  (Jrecks,  who  sought  merely  to  emI)ody  the  highest  concep- 
tion of  worldly  beauty,  and  whose  ideas  of  religion  scarcely 
rose  above  the  ground  on  which  they  stood.  And  the  conduct 
of  the  worshippers  here  seems  prompted  by  a  sympathy  in 
accordance  willi  the  spirit  of  the  place.     Every  purely  .worldly 


BESCRimoN. — MU.Sir.  181 

enjoyment  is  banished.  From  this  point  of  view  the  chairs  of 
the  Frencli  and  the  pews  of  the  English  churches  are  equally 
destructive  to  any  elevation  of  feeling,  inasmuch  as  thej^  neces- 
sarily recall  one  from  meditation  on  things  above  to  the  mere 
comforts  of  the  body.  Spanish  ladies,  if  they  desire  to  sit, 
have  a  mat  carried  by  a  servant  and  placed  upon  tlic  pavement 
in  the  veritable  Eastern  styh\  wliile  the  men,  noble  and  peasant 
alilce,  kneel  upon  the  marble  mosaic. 

The  internal  arrangement  of  the  Cathedral  resembles  that  of 
most  others  in  Spain.  The  centre  aisle  from  the  transept  to 
within  fifty  or  a  hundred  feet  of  the  great  western  entrance,  is 
occupied  b}'  the  coro  (the  choir),  closed  toward  the  west  by 
the  trascoro,  but  open  toward  the  high  altar,  which  occupies 
a  similar  position  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  cntre  los  dos  coros. 
Each  is  railed  off  by  a  handsome  grating — reja — of  ornamented 
steel,  and  a  little  gangway  connects  the  two.  The  rcjas  in  the 
Spanish  cathedrals  are  always  worthy  of  the  attention  of 
travellers,  and  give  some  idea  of  what  the  gold  and  silver  and 
steel  work  in  these  churches  was  before  the  AVar  of  Independ- 
ence. The  whole  high  altar,  is  a  magnificent  piece  of  skill  and 
ornamentation,  and  the  refablo.  extending  nearly  up  to  the  roof, 
is  famous  even  in  Spain.  It  is  of  alerce  wood,  and  divided  into 
fortj'-four  compartments,  which  represent  scenes  from  the  Scrip- 
ture history.  Far  up  above,  seemingly  in  the  clouds,  is  a 
crucifix,  projected  apparently  upon  a  back  ground  of  dark 
velvet.  At  certain  hours  of  the  day,  depending  upon  the 
season,  the  rays  of  the  sun,  through  the  stained  windows  of 
the  cimborio  or  dome  over  the  transept  cross,  fall  njion  this 
crucifix,  which  is  thus  brilliantly  illuminated,  while  the  rest  of 
the  edifice  remains  in  profound  gloom.  The  effect  is  beyond 
measure  impressive.  The  coro  is  finely  ornamented  within, 
and  above  it  are  tlie  grand  organs,  whoso  deep  tones,  swelling 
through  the  Cathedral  on  a  feast  day,  and  filling  its  recesses 
with  the  immensit}*  of  their  volume,  are  indeed  magnificent. 
One  of  them,  built  by  Jorge  Boscli.  the  largest  in  the  world, 
contains  a  hundred  and  nineteen  stops,  and  five  thousand  three 
hundred  and  twenty-six  pipes;  the  other,  b}'  Vcrdalonga,  is 
almost  as  large.  Sacred  music  is  still  preserved  in  its  purity 
and  grandeur  at  Seville,  resembling,  in  this  respect,  the  cities 
of  (Jormany.  The  artist,  M'ho  performed  on  great  occasions  in 
l!i52,  was  a  master,  and  did  full  justice  to  the  noble  instrument. 


1S2  SPAIN    ANn    TIIK    SPAMARDS. 

thoii<^h  tliis  summer  I  heard  uo  music  tliat  was  remarkable. 
Aroiiml  the  corn  and  hij:;h  altar,  on  the  outside,  arc  nnmcroua 
small  altars  and  chapels,  containinijj  many  works  of  art,  fa- 
mous, some  of  them,  for  their  excellence,  othei*s  for  their 
antiquity.  Amontj  them  is  a  celebrated  ima^^e,  in  wood,  of  the 
Vir<riii,  by  MontaHes.  probabl}-  the  finest  specimen  of  wood 
carving  in  Spain.  It  is  perfectl}'  exquisite,  tlie  cmboditication 
of  tiie  highest  and  purest  style  of  Andalusian  beauty,  a  Murillo 
Holidified.  A  quantity  of  ornaments  of  a  rich  description,  glit- 
tering jewels  and  costly  silks,  have  been  placed  upon  it,  greatly 
impairing  the  effect;  but  a  certain  amount  of  silver  about  these 
images  serves  to  heighten  the  relief,  only  it  requires  great 
judgment  to  know  when  to  stop.  For  the  artistic  reputation 
of  Spain,  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  its  sculpture  consists  almost 
entirely*  of  either  wood  or  earth  in  its  various  ])rcj)arations. 
Its  churches  are  crowded  with  images  which,  if  in  marl>le, 
would  receive  the  unqualified  approltation  of  the  artistic  world. 
As  it  is,  they  arc  generally  hurried  over  with  a  passing  notice, 
j)artly  because  when  seen  by  strangers  they  have  been  removed 
from  the  situations  for  which  they  were  originally  intended  by 
the  artist,  and  partly  because  of  the  cheapness  of  the  material 
out  of  which  the}'  arc  made,  as  though  the  excellence  of  the 
conception  were  not  the  same,  whether  executed  in  marble  or 
terra-cotta. 

The  whole  circuit  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  series  of  chapels  and 
altars,  with  endless  treasures  of  ever}'  description — a  veritable 
museum.  Its  jiaintings  would,  of  themselves,  form  a  gallery  as 
distinguished  for  excellence  as  for  numbers.  During  a  consid- 
eral>le  part  of  the  War  of  Independence,  Marshal  Soult  reigned 
supreme  in  Andalusia,  and,  to  sjieak  in  plain  tenns,  robbed 
and  stole  whatever  fell  within  his  grasp.  Nowhere  in  Europe 
did  the  Revolutionary  Generals  hesitate  to  melt  down  an}'" 
ornament  of  the  precious  metals,  however  beautiful  or  sa- 
cred. Such  conduct,  though  strange  in  those  who  came  osten- 
sibly as  benefactors,  might  have  Ijccn  forgiven,  but  Soult, 
not  content  with  this,  by  a  refinetl  species  of  robbery,  plun- 
dered works  of  art.  Some,  in  anticipation  of  this  invasion  of 
Vandals,  had  been  removed  to  Cadiz,  others  hidden  away  in 
the  vaults  beneath,  but  such  precautions  did  not  always  suflicc, 
for  the  Chapter  was  occasionally  comjielled  to  produce  its 
secreted  treasures  by  the  threat  of  a  military  execution.     I  was 


SAN    ANTONIO. THE    UUARDIAN    ANGEL.  183 

present,  in  1852,  at  the  sale  of  Jus  collection  in  Paris — those 
ver}-  ])ictnres  seized  hero  by  fraud  and  violence — and  J  saw  the 
ai^ent  of  the  Spanish  Government  bidding  for  the  Murillo,  its 
OAVJi  ])ropert3^,  now  in  the  Louvre,  which  sold  for  the  enormous 
sum  of  four  hundred  thousand  francs.  How  the  Allies  could 
sanction  the  retention  of  them  b}^  Soult,  and  yet  send  back 
those  which  were  in  the  possession  of  Napoleon,  is  incon- 
ceivable to  an  ordinary  conscience.  But  the  morality  of  the 
Avorld  is  a  strange  science,  and  Europeans,  who  hold  up  their 
hands  in  holy  horror  at  the  thought  of  a  Cuban  filibuster,  tind 
nothing  to  blame  in  all  this.  A'number  of  magnificent  ]\lui'il- 
los  W(M'e,  however,  preserved.  The  first  chapel  on  the  left, 
entering  from  the  Sagrario,  contains  a  large  altar  piece  repre- 
senting San  Antonio  de  Padua  kneeling  before  the  infant 
Saviour,  which  is  considered  by  many  the  master  work  o^  the 
artist.  Whether  it  be  entitlc'(l  to  this  ])re-eminonce  may  admit 
of  a  question,  l)ut  it  is  a  grant!  painting,  one  which  imjtroves 
with  ever}-  visit.  The  picture  is  of  large  size,  yet  it  would 
puzzle  the  critic  to  point  out  a  fault.  The  somewhat  unnatural 
subject,  that  is,  unnatural  when  viewed  from  the  ex})erience  of 
life,  is  clothed  with  dignity  by  the  consummate  hand  of  the 
master,  and  the  devotion  of  the  saint  to  a  mere  infant,  i)ro- 
duces  none  but  the  noblest  impression.  The  "  Guartlian  An- 
gel," leading  a  little  child  b}-  the  hand,  which  is  an  altar  piece 
near  the  western  entrance,  is  entitled  to  all  the  admiration  it 
has  received.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  benevolence  of  the 
Angel,  who,  with  chei'ishing  love  and  hope,  points  to  Heaven,, 
or  the  confiding  trust  expressed  in  the  countenance  of  the 
child,  as  it  clings  to  the  hand  of  its  protector.  It  is  one  of 
those  pictures  which  remain  in  tlie  memory,  and  seems  a  vision 
of  some  ])revious  stage  of  existence,  ere  man  had  fallen  from 
his  purity.  The  Chajitcr  House,  too,  possesses  a  treasure  in 
the  "  Concepcion,"  which  is.  jierhaps,  unequalled  among  the 
conce])tions ;  and  another  chapel,  to  the  north,  has  a  Madonna, 
by  Alonzo  Cano,  that  may  worthil}'  rank  with  the  best.  In 
the  south  transept  is  the  celebrated  "  Gencracion."  by  Luis  de 
Vargas,  commonly  called  "La  Gamba,"  from  the  leg  of  Adam. 
I  was  never  able  to  perceive  the  great  merit  of  this  painting, 
but  every  one  else  does.  There  can,  however,  be  but  one 
opinion  about  the  miserable  kitchen  clock  above,  the  only 
incon<rruous  ornament  in  the  Cathedral. 


184  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPANIAUns. 

The  Ilo^-jil  Chapel  hehiixl  tlio  altar.  :i  thiirfh  in  size,  contains 
a  precious  relic  in  the  well-preserved  body  of  St.  Ferdinand, 
the  reconqneror  of  Seville.  The  coffin  in  which  his  body  was 
formerly  enclosed  still  remains,  with  inscriptions  in  Latin, 
Spanish,  Arabic  antl  Hebrew.  Here,  too,  are  his  sword  and 
the  sacred  ima<jje  of  the  Virgin,  which  hun<5  at  his  saddle  bow 
durini^  tiie  camjiaign.  The  original  ke3s  of  the  city,  which 
were  presented  to  him  by  the  Jews  and  Moors  on  the  surren- 
der, are  guarded  in  another  part  of  the  Cathedral.  On  certain 
anniversaries  tlie  body  is  exposed  to  view;  guard  is  mounted 
by  the  jiicked  troops  of  the  gari'ison  (this  duty  was  formerly 
dischai'ged  by  the  master  tailors  of  the  Cofradia  de  San  Mateo, 
among  whom  he  was  enrolled),  and  the  flags  are  lowered  l)el'ore 
the  saintl}'  conqueror.  In  this  chapel  lies  also  the  body  of 
Maria  de  Padilla,  formerly  considered  the  mistress,  now  be- 
lieved to  have  been  the  wife  of  Peter  the  Cruel.  The  tombs  of 
Garci  Perez  de  Vargas  and  other  Conquistadores,  nre  to  be 
found  in  the  various  chapels,  so  that  the  Cathedral  has  been 
happily  styled  a  Pantheon  of  Chivalr}-.  The  most  interesting 
of  all  is  that  of  Fernan  Columbus,  Avho  is  interred  near  the 
western  entrance.  A  simple  slab,  let  into  the  pavement,  marks 
the  spot,  antl  on  it  are  carved  the  caravels  of  the  great  dis- 
coverer, with  the  proud  motto — proud  in  its  simjilicity — 

A  Cast  ilia  y  a  Leon, 
Nucvo  muiido  dio  Colon. 

The  remains  of  Columbus  himself,  after  many  translations, 
repose  in  the  C'athedral  of  Havana,  and  should  the  ])roject, 
avowed  by  western  Europe  of  Africanizing  the  Island,  be  car- 
I'ied  into  execution,  it  is  to  lie  hoped  tliat  they  will  lind  an 
appropi'iate  atid  final  resting  ])lace  in  the  bosom  of  the  great 
American  Republic.  Filibustering,  for  this  end,  would  deserve 
the  approbation  ol'  tlie  civilized  world. 

There  are  nine  entrances  to  the  Cathedral,  one  to  the  south, 
two  to  the  east,  three  to  the  west,  and  three  to  the  north  upon 
the  Patio  dc  los  Nuranjos.  Over  one  of  these,  la  del  lagarto,  is 
suspended  a  wooden  alligator,  about  wbich  many  marvellous 
tales  are  told,  such  as  that  it  was  a  courting  present  from  the 
Soldan  of  Egypt.  In  fact,  it  is,  with  the  curb  and  other  em- 
blems beside  it,  inercly  symbolical  of  the  cardinal  virtues.  The 
door.s  of  the  great  western  entrance  are  opened  in  summer  for 


CHURCH    FEASTS. I'KOCESSION    OF    THE    VIRGIN.  185 

ventilation;  but  the  iron  grating  is  never  removed,  except  to 
admit  the  monarch,  or  for  the  installation  or  burial  of  an  arch- 
bishop. 

Though  the  feasts  of  the  Church  at  Seville  ai-e  no  longer 
celebrated  with  the  pomp  of  former  days,  when  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  wealth  of  the  kingdom  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
clerg}',  they  are  still  second  in  magnificence  only  to  those  of 
Rome.  On  such  occasions,  the  (iirahhi  is  illuminated  IVoni  its 
base  to  its  summit,  and  as  the  flames  flicker  with  the  wind,  the 
huge  tower  itself,  like  a  burning  arrow,  seems  to  sway  about 
in  the  heavens.  The  great  Easter  candle,  formerly  twenty- 
four  feet  in  length,  and  weighing  eighty  arrobas  (some  two 
thousand  pounds)  is  sadl}'  reduced  in  its  dimensions,  but  is  still 
of  enormous  size,  and  the  lofty  Monumento,  which  is  ei'ccted 
on  the  eve  of  Good  Friday,  and  stands  a  pillar  of  fire  in  the 
general  gloom  ot  the  Cathedral,  yet  displays  its  glories,  far 
surpassing  the  descriptions  given  of  the  illuminated  cross  that 
used  to  be  suspended  in  St.  Peter's  on  the  Saturday  of  Holy 
Week.  Easter  and  the  Feria,  or  fair,  attract  crowds  from  all 
parts  of  Spain,  and  not  a  few  foreigners  from  the  scapoi'ts  of 
Cadiz,  Gibraltar  and  Malaga.  Then,  Seville  ese  Labevinto  de 
jorasteros,  combines  every  attraction,  and  the  ceremonies  of 
the  Ciiurch,  even  to  the  eating  of  the  Paschal  lamb,  are  strict- 
ly observed.  The  market  where  these  latter  are  sold  used  to 
be  well  worth  a  visit.  Adult  faithful  throng  to  pi-ocure  the 
hoi}'  symbol,  Avhile  children  embrace  the  opportunity  of  pur- 
chasing young  pets,  which  are  here  great  favorites.  In  the 
processions  the  image  of  the  Virgin  is  conspicuous.  Indeed, 
Seville  has,  during  all  ages,  been  famous  for  the  honors  it  has 
paid  to  tlie  ilother  of  God.  Centuries  ago,  the  dogma  of  the 
immaculate  conception  was  fought  and  sustained  here,  and 
even  passed  into  a  shibboleth.  As  a  question  of  revealed  reli- 
gion, every  one  must  decide  for  himself  Regarding  it  from  a 
merely  human  point  of  view,  the  worshi])  of  the  Virgin  appears 
to  me  very  natural.  What  can  be  more  worthy  of  respect,  to 
go  no  further,  than  the  ideal  of  female  excellence?  that  inef- 
fable purity  and  beauty  of  soul  which  doubles  the  enjoyments 
and  divides  the  sorrows  of  life,  which  diff'uscs  its  rays  over  this 
weary  pilgrimage  below,  and  alone  renders  existence  endur- 
able? These  ma}'  be  mere  phantasies  of  inexperience,  the 
dreams  of  a  bachelor.     If  so.   it  would  be  a  sad  mistake  to 


ISG 


SPAIN    AM)    TI!K    srANIARDS. 


exchange  thorn  for  the  cominonphicc  realities  of  truth.  If  one 
nia}'  he  pardoned  for  niinj^Iing  things  on  earth  with  things 
above,  I  will  confess  that  a  visit  to  the  ('athedral  on  a 
feast  day  could  sufficiently  explain  to  me  the  prevalence  of  this 
featurr  <»f  religious  \vorshi]»,  without  the  necessity  of  seeking 
its  origin  in  the  ^^)nlan  Diana,  or  the  Pluvnician  Astarte. 
Surely,  no  other  spot  on  earth  can  offer  such  typi'S  of  female 
loveliness  as  then  crowd  its  sjiacious  aisles. 

As  the  excellence  of  the  Cathedral  does  not  consist  so  much 
in  the  contemplation  of  particular  i)arts  as  in  the  general  effect 
of  the  whole,  it  should  be  visited  at  all  hours  of  the  day  in 
order  to  appreciate  it  full}'.  A  stranger,  with  a  guide  and  a 
guide  book,  will  detect,  perhaps  acknowledge,  its  manifold 
beauties;  l>ut  really  to  feci  it.  he  should  saunter  in  alone,  with 
a  mind  free  from  preoccupation  and  ready  to  imbibe  its  myste- 
rious influences.  I  was  never  more  i)rofoundh'  impi'cssed  than 
one  evening,  about  sunset,  in  the  month  of  September.  The 
vesper  chaunt  had  just  ended,  and  the  lust  notes  of  the  organ, 
faintly  echoing  their  mellow  cadence,  were  dA'ing  away  in  the 
vaulted  roof  Priests  and  choristers  hurried  out,  with  doubtless 
very  prosaic  feelings — it  was  their  daily  occupation — and  I 
was  left  almost  alone,  with  here  and  there  a  pious  devotee  liir- 
gering  liefore  some  favorite  altai'.  The  cx])iring  i-ays  of  the 
sun  sti'i'amed  in  through  the  westei'u  jioiial,  but  were  lost  in 
the  vast  i-ecesses  of  the  edifice;  the  wiiole  eastern  portion  lay 
shrouded  in  gloom.  A  faint  gleam  of  light,  struggling  through 
the  jiaiiited  windows  of  tlie  iImihc,  fell  iipim  the  lofty  crueilix, 
and  seemed  to  point  to  the  life  of  purity  l)eyond.  At  stieh  a 
time, one  cannot  but  feel  that  there  is  an  ethereal  s[)ii'it  within, 
a  spark  of  the  J)ivine  es.scncc,  which  would  fain  cast  off  its 
prison  house  of  m(n-tality  and  flee  to  the  Eternal  existence  that 
gave  it  birth.  This  edifice  is  one  of  the  few  creations  of  man 
that  realizes  expectation.  Morning,  noon  or  niglit,  none  can 
enter  without  acknowledging  that  be  stands  on  holy  ground. 
The  accessories,  the  trembling  swi'll  of  (he  organs,  the  sweet 
odor  of  incense,  the  beautiful  woi-ks  of  art,  which  elsewhere 
distract  the  attention,  here  combine  in  universality  of  gran- 
deur to  establish  that  harmony  of  the  soul  so  conducive  to 
devotion;  and  if  the  excellence  of  architecture  consist  in  the 
accomplishment  of  the  rational  purj)0se  assigned,  to  this  must 
the  palm    lie  awai'ded.      Political    economists    may  reason    that 


PAINTINGS    IN    LA    CARIDAD.  187 

such  an  expenditure  in  unproductive  stone  withdraws  from 
the  general  circulation  a  sensible  capital;  the  severe  reformer 
may  preach  against  the  adoration  of  saints  and  images;  the 
abstract  ])hilos<)plier  may  denounce  the  appeal  to  the  senses,  but 
their  remonstrance  will  fall  pointless  upon  the  heart.  There 
are  occasions  when  humanity  rises  above  the  earthly  rules  of 
logic,  and  acknowledges  obedience  only  to  those  hidden  laws 
which  govern  the  divine  portion  of  our  nature,  and  whose 
sequence  is  beyond  the  reach  of  human  intellect. 

In  olden  times,  the  great  city  of  Seville  contained  more  than 
a  hundred  churches,  besides  hospitals  and  other  semi-religious 
establishments.      The  various   wars   of  the   century,   the%up- 
pression   of  monasteries   and    the  confiscation    of  the    church 
property,  have  reduced  the  number  to  a  small  fraction  of  what 
it  originally  was;  and  the  works  of  art  with  which  they  were 
crowded    have    been   transferred  to   galleries,  oftentimes  with 
ruinous  effect,  for  they  were  always  calculated  for  the  precise 
position    they  were  intended  to  occupy,  with  due  regard  to 
light  and  shade,  and  it  rarely  happens  that  they  are,  or  can  be 
suitably  placed  elsewhere.     In  no  department  has  the  genius  of 
Andalusia  been   more  pre-eminent  than   in  painting.     Murillo 
and    Velasquez  are  but  the   brightest  ornaments  of  a  school, 
Avhich   iiunibered  many  others  entitled  to  a  high  rank.     The 
taste  still  survives,  though  the    faculty  of  originating  grand 
conceptions  seems  to  be  dormant,  and  almost  eveiy  one  h"  re  is 
capable  of  appreciating,  if  not  of  executing.     Many  of  the  Mu- 
rillos  have  found  their  way  to  Madrid,  and  even  further;  but 
the  best  are,  unquestionably,  still  in  Seville.     Between  the  city 
wall  and  the  river  is  the  hospital  of  La  Caridad,  which  con- 
tains very  fine  ones.     Hence  was  taken  by  Soult  the  Sta.  Isabel, 
now  in  the  Academy  at  Madrid.     Two  of  those  yet  remaining 
are   larger  in  size  than  Murillo  was  in  the  habit  of  painting'^ 
they  represent,   respectively,  the  miracle  of  the   Loaves  and 
Fishes,  and  Moses  Striking  the  Hock.     The  composition  of  both 
has   been   criticise.l,   and   is,  perhaps,  faulty,   as  in    neither  is 
the  princii)al  figure  sufficiently  prominent.     But  in  invention, 
drawing,  coloring,  they  seem  quite  equal  to  the  best.     The  San 
Juan  de  Dios  had  been  to  me  formerly  a  disagreeable  picture, 
on   account  of  its  dark   back  ground,  and  gloomy,  forbidding 
manner,  but   I  now  acknowleilge  its   excellence.     The  "Dead 
Bishop,"  by  a   less   distinguished  artist,  is  a  revolting  subject, 


188  .  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

but  a  most  admiral»Ie  painting,  if  complete  success  in  produ- 
cing the  desired  effect  be  the  true  object  of  admiration.  A 
certain  hauglity  jjrelate  had  treated  the  artist  with  a  want  of 
respect,  who,  in  revenge,  determined  to  teach  his  reverence  a 
lesson  of  humility.  There  he  lies  in  his  coffin  with  mitre  and 
crook,  the  flesh  seeming  to  fall  from  his  bones,  and  the  fright- 
fully life-like  worms  crawling  in  and  out.  Pfaugh  I  Murillo 
protested  that  he  could  not  look  at  it  without  holding  his  nose, 
and  the  prou<l  Bishop,  with  unwilling  regrets,  confessed  the 
truth  of  the  Preacher's  words — "All,  all  is  vanity." 

The  greater  portion  of  the  ])ietiires  wiiieli  liad  belonged  to 
the  suppressed  convents,  were  subsequently  coUecteil  into  a 
museum,  where  they  j'ct  remain,  the  old  convent  of  La  Merced 
being  appropriated  for  that  purpose.  As  for  those  in  the 
church,  I  will  not  venture  to  give  an  oi)inion,  for  the  workmen 
were  making  some  repairs,  and  m}'  entry  seemed  always  sim- 
ultaneous with  an  increase  of  industry,  producing  such  a  dust 
and  noi.se -that  it  was  impossible  to  enjoj' the  fine  arts,  (^ne 
hall  on  the  second  floor  is  entirely  filled  with  Murillos.  whieli 
seems  to  me  a  matter  of  regret.  At  least,  I  have  always  found 
it  difficult  to  bring  away  a  distinct  impression  where  there  are 
so  many  which  necessarily  resemble  each  other  to  a  considera- 
ble extent.  It  otters,  however,  the  best  opportunity  of  study- 
in<r  the  artist  himself,  and  this  collection  reveals  ^lurillo  in  all 
his  glory,  though  it  is  defective  in  representations  of  profane 
subjects.  The  "  Servilleta,"  which  he  painted  upon  a  table 
napkin,  is  deservedly  adtnired,  but  the  face  is  evidently  taken 
from  some  not  very  handsome  reality,  whom  he  has  portrayed 
more  than  once.  The  patronesses  of  the  (iiralda,  the  St.  b'ran- 
cis,  the  San  Antonio,  and  others,  are  much  more  to  my  taste. 
Among  them  are  two  "Conceptions."  An  Andalusian  courier 
in  the  service  of  a  friend  of  mine  in  Paris,  vindicating  the 
superiority  of  Murillo  over  all  rivals,  acknowledged  in  them 
an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  form  and  color,  but  claimed  that  his 
countr3'man  alone  could  bring  out  the  "  insides."  The  criti- 
cism was  better  than  the  English  in  which  it  was  conve^^ed, 
and  is  particularly  apj)licalile  to  the  "Conceptions."  Aturillo's 
success  in  this,  the  most  difficult  of  all  subjects,  is  marvellous. 
Who  but  he  has  adequatel}''  imagined  what  \'iclor  Hugo  some- 
where calls  "  le  point  mystic  de  la  Virginite,  de  la  Maternite, 
ct  de  la  Bivinite?"     The  task  imposed  on  Spanish  painters  far 


'  MURILLO'S    CONCErTIONS.  l!^0 

exceeded  in  difficulty  the  simple  representation  of  the  Ma- 
donna, who  in  unini]->assioned  repose  idealizes  freedom  from 
earthly  thou<>-hts — a  purely  negative  cifeet.  Murillo  has  ac- 
complished greatly  more  than  this;  he  has  emhodied  a  concep- 
tion of  the  most  exquisite  earthly  loveliness,  free  from  the 
taint  of  earthly  passions;  a  picture  of  enraptured  ecstatic  beati- 
tude, uncorrupted  bj^  the  guilt  of  sensual  gratification  ;  a  seraph 
who  feels  that  she  has  unconsciously  become  the  mother  of  the 
Saviour.  Whether  other  artists  could  have  equalled  Murillo, 
is  best  answered  by  the  fact  that  they  huve  not  done  so.  Even 
Rafaelle,  except  in  the  Transfiguration,  has  rested  content  Avith 
the  comparatively  expressionless  ])urity  and  serenity  of  (Jreek 
sculpture,  nor  would  his  Madonnas  ever  convey  the  idea  of  a 
mortal  who  has  immaculatel}"  conceived,  and  is  to  bring  into 
the  world  the  Son  of  the  living  God — the  hoi}-  ambition  of  all 
the  daughters  of  Israel.  The  one  followed  the  classical  taste 
of  his  age  and  country,  the  other  the  living,  impassioned  en- 
thusiastic nature  around  him,  and  I  have  always  thought  that 
the  greatest  triumph  of  the  Spaniard  w^ould  be  to  place  his 
master  work  between  the  frigid  purity  of  the  Madonna  di  San 
Sisto,  and  the  sensual  ecstacy  of  Correggio's  lo.  Then  would 
deserved  honor  be  accorded  to  him  who  first  had  united  humani- 
ty and  divinity. 


4 


ClIAI'TKR    XI. 

THE    AT.  (WZAR    AND    OTIIKIJ    F.  DIFTCES. 

The  Alcaxnr — Don  Pedro  and  Mnria  de  Padillo — Casa  dc  Pilatos — The  Lonja — The 
University — The  Ribcras — Tobaecft  Manufactory — The  Streets — Flowers — The- 
atre— Dances,  origin,  character — The  Funcion — El  Ole — El  Vito — (.Jipsy — Com- 
parison— Religious  and  Social. 

The  finest,  tliougli  not  the  purest,  relic  of  Moorish  art  in 
Seville,  is  the  Aleazur,  which  has  served  as  a  royal  residence 
even  from  the  da^s  of  the  Romans.  After  the  dissolution  of 
the  Cordovese  Empire,  Seville  became  the  residence  df  one  of 
the  most  enli<rhtencd  families,  that  succeeded  in  establishiii';  a 
dynasty-  upon  it.s  ruins — the  Beni  Abhad.  Under  them  and  their 
Huccess;rs,  particularly  the  Alinohades,  the  Alcazar  was  great- 
ly improved,  if  not  rebuilt.  But  the  finest  portions  date  from 
the  time  of  Peter  the  Oi-uel  of  Castile,  whose  alliance  with  the 
^loorish  sovereigns  of  Gi-unada  and  Africa  enabled  hiin  to  pro- 
cure architects  ami  workmen,  and  to  I'ival  the  extinct  glories 
of  Cordova.  Ferdinand  and  Isaliella,  and  the  Emi)eror  Charles 
made  alterations  and  additions,  l)ut  some  sul)sc'(|uent  barbai'ian 
actually  wliil(.'waslu'd  the  Moorisli  ceilings,  it  iialtles  ingenuity 
to  conjecture  the  motive  for  such  a  jterformance.  Since  my  last 
visit,  the  Duke  of  Montpensiei-,  with  the  taste  and  libei-alit}' 
which  characterize  him,  has  caused  much  of  it  to  be  removed, 
and  is  attempting  to  restore  the  whole  to  its  original  state.  A 
sjtecimen  of  the  old  whitewashed  iioilion  has  been  retained  for 
the  purpose  of  offering  a  comparison.  If  his  intentions  arc 
carried  out.  it  will  lie  almost  as  great  an  ornament  to  architec- 
tural Spain  as  the  .Mhamlira.  Indeed,  1  must  say,  that  the 
Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  at  Seville,  lian-ing  the  balconied  win- 
dows cut  into  the  Media  Naranjn,  sui-passes  its  rival,  nor  is 
there  anything  at  Granada  to  equal  the  great  court — the  Patio 
jirincipal — which,  with  its  fountains  and   columns,  is  by  moon- 


'^ 


THE    ALCAZAR. — PON    PEDRO    EL    CRUEL.  191 


h*  light  really  eiichantinc:;.  It  is  some  seventy  feet  in  length,  and 
some  fifty  in  width,  paved  with  the  purest  of  white  marble,  and 
surroiindod  by  an  elegant  colonnade.  The  decoration  of  the 
Moorish  jiortion  of  the  Alcazar  is,  if  possible,  richer  than  that 
of  the  xVlhambra,  and  reasonably-  so,  as  the  sovereigns  of  Se- 
ville, whether  Christian  or  Mohammedan,  w-ei'e  possessed  of 
greater  wealth,  and  had  almost  equal  facilities  with  those  of 
CJranada;  but  beautiful  as  the  Moorish  Alcazar  is,  it  lacks  the 
charms  of  situation  and  the  romance  which  lend  such  attrac- 
tions to  the  Alhamln-a,  and  is  moreover  brought  into  too  imme- 
diate contrast  M'ith   other  wonders  to  make  its  full  im])rossion. 

The  number  of  rooms,  ancient  and  modern,  is  considerable — 
more  than  three  score — but  some  of  them  are  ver^' plain  in  their 
decorations.  The  little  chapel  of  Isabella,  the  Catholic,  is  a 
model  of  a  royal  clKqx'l  for  devotion.  Throughout  the  niodern 
part  are  displayed  the  c^-pher  of  herself  and  her  husband;  that 
selected  by  Isabel  was  a  bundle  of  arrows,  the  Spanish  word 
for  arrow  (flecha)  commencing  with  the  initial  letter  of  her 
husband's  name;  Ferdinand  in  turn  adopted  a  yoke  (yugo),  the 
capital  letter  I,  of  Isabella,  being  written  in  Spanish  as  a  Y. 
The  motto,  Tato  Mota,  has  been  erroneously  interpreted  to  sig- 
nify the  equality  between  the  kingdoms  of  Castile  and  Aragon, 
whereas  none  such  existed  or  was  contemplated.  It  has,  with 
better  reasons,  been  supposed  to  mean,  simply,  that  it  is  as  well 
to  effect  the  union  of  the  monai-ch3^by  marriage  as  bj' conquest. 
The  gardens  of  the  Alcazar  arc  superb,  and  in  spring  the  air  is 
loaded  with  perfumes.  One  of  the  walks  is  lined  with  hidden 
fountains,  whose  jets  arch  over  and  drench  the  promenaders, 
and  some  unsuspecting  attendant  is  generally  made  to  suffer  by 
way  of  illustrating  the  joke  to  travellers.  It  is  not,  however, 
half  as  good  a  plan  as  that  of  t»he  facetious  Archbishop  of  Saltz- 
Inirg,  whose  dining  table  was  surrouudrd  with  stone  seats  made 
hollow,  for  the  purpose,  with  pipes  running  to  his  hand. 

The  Alcazar  is  haunted  l)y  the  unea.sy  shade  of  Peter  the 
Cruel,  about  whose  true  character  there  is  great  difference  of 
opinion  among  learned  Sjumiards  of  the  present  day.  The  im- 
jiartial  and  inquiring  spirit  with  which  they  have  investigated 
this  period  of  their  history,  is  to  my  mind  one  of  the  evidences 
that  the  sound  intelligence  and  critical  judgment  of  the  nation 
arc  rapidly  awakening.  Few  princes  have  fared  so  badly  in 
history  as   Peter.     The  vivacity  and   sternness  of  his  disposi- 


102  SrAIN    AM»    THE    SPANIARDS. 

lion,  liis  treati'iiont  of  Blanche  of  Bourbon,  his  breach  of  faitli 
toward  the  Moorish  king,  Abu  Said,  the  cruelty  of  his  ven- 
geance were  severely  punished  in  this  world  by  his  premature 
death,  and  by  the  almost  unanimous  condemnation  of  histo-. 
rians.  Of  late,  however,  the  foundations  of  this  universally 
received  ojiinion  have  been  a^ain  investigated,  and  found  to  be 
liable  to  gre-'t  suspicion.  Dui'ing  the  lifetime  of  his  father, 
Alfonso  XI.  Peter  and  his  uiother  were  humiliated  by  the  am- 
bitious Leonora  de  Guzman,  who  aspired  to  substitute  her  own 
children  in  the  place  of  the  legitinuite  heirs.  When  he  ascend- 
ed the  throne,  a  powerful  feudal  nobility,  struggling  to  retain 
and  enlarge  privileges  which  were  ceasing  to  be  in  accordance 
with  the  spirit  of  the  age,  and  willing  to  embrace  the  opportu- 
nity afibrded  b}'  the  dissensions  of  the  royal  family  of  encroach- 
ing upon  the  prerogative,  opposed  continued  obstacles  to  his 
government,  and  surrounded  him  with  snares  and  treacheries, 
so  that  he  knew  not  whom  to  trust.  That  his  brothers  acted 
toward  him  with  dissimulation  is  certain,  and  his  treatment  of 
the  Queen,  his  obstinate  refusal  even  to  see  her,  must  have  had 
some  secret  justification,  otherwise  his  conduct  would  have 
been  that  of  a  mere  insensate;  nor  is  it  to  be  sup])osed  that  the 
King  of  France  woulil  have  quietly  permitted  the  imjjrisoiunent 
and  execution  of  an  innocent  daughter  of  the  blood  ro^-al.  The 
contemporary  Spanish  histoi-ians  wi'ote  under  the  influence  of 
Henry  of  Trastamara,  who  had  killed  Don  Pedro  with  his  own 
hand,  and  thereb}'  succeeded  to  the  throne.  AVhat  tiiey  say, 
therefore,  must  be  taken  with  great  allowance.  We  know  that 
there  was  a  very  different  narrative  once  in  existence,  though 
now  lost  or  suppressed.  The  French  writers  are  still  less 
worthy  of  confidence,  for  their  great  leader,  I)u  Guesclin  or 
Claquin,  was  Henry's  General,  and  is  denounced  b\-  the  S])an- 
iards  as  a  vile  assassin  for  his  part  in  the  occurrence  at  ^Lon- 
tiel,  where  he  decided  the  fatal  struggle  between  the  brothers 
in  a  manner  not  easy  to  reconcile  with  the  conduct  of  a  prcux 
chevalier.  Pon  Pedro  had  the  adilitional  misfortune  of  quarrel- 
ing with  the  Prince  of  Wales,  his  only  ally,  about  the  pa}'  for 
which  that  skilful  soldier  had  bargained  his  services,  and  thus 
from  none  could  he  expect  even  justice.  His  friendship  for 
.K'ws  and  Moors  was  considered  a  heinous  sin  at  that  day,  but 
jierhaps  it  was  merely  a  liberality  of  opinion  in  advance  of  the 
age,  and  his  unpopularity  with    the   disorderly  nobles  of  the 


> 


¥ 


ANECDOTE    OF    HIS    JUSTICE.  10," 


realm,  might  well  have  been  owing  to  the  unrelenting  severity 
with  whicli  he  pursued  offenders,  whether  high  or  Ioav.  Of 
this  tlierc  are  many  authenticated  instances.  A  striking  one, 
in  point,  is  narrated.  Once  upon  a  time  a  canon  of  the  Cathe- 
dral having,  in  an  ungovernable  fit  of  rage  at  the  bad  shape  of 
Ills  shoes,  killed  the  shoemaker,  the  family  of  the  murdered 
man  comphuncd  to  the  chapter,  and  tlie  offender  was  punished 
by  a  suspension  from  liis  (hitics  for  a  year.  The  son  of  the 
shoemaker  avengcil  tliis  double  wrong  b}'  the  death  of  the 
canon.  Peter  took  personal  jurisdiction  of  the  crime,  and 
having  first  ascertained  wliat  punishment  had  been  intlicted  in 
the  pi'cvious  case,  imposed  a  similar  one  by  suspending  the 
3'oung  shoemaker  for  a  year  from  the  exercise  of  his  occupa- 
tion.    Surel}'  this  was  even  handed  justice. 

Another  anecdote  is  related  of  Don  Pedro  in  this  connection, 
Avhich  seems  to  me  to  have  been  strangely  misunderstood.  It 
is  said  that,  being  out  alone  one  night,  he  had  the  misfortune, 
a  very  common  one  at  that  day,  of  crossing  swords  with  a 
stranger,  and  killing  him.  Next  morning  he  summoned  the 
Chief  of  Police,  and  demanded  the  name  of  the  offender.  No 
one  could  tell.  Peter  commanded  him  to  ascertain  the  author 
of  the  deed,  and  to  place  his  bust  on  the  spot.  On  the  folloAV- 
ing  day  his  own  appeared,  with  all  the  regal  paraphernalia, 
and  it.  or  a  pretended  one,  used  to  be  shown  in  tlie  Calle  del 
Candik'jo.  His  conduct  in  this  particular  has  generally  been 
construed  into  a  poor  and  arbitrary  jest  in  manifestation  of  his 
contempt  for  the  law.  But  the  idea  of  punishing  a  cavalier 
for  the  not  unnatural  consequences  of  an  affair  of  gallantry, 
would  have  been  considei'cd  in  Spain  at  that  day,  and  for  many 
generations  afterward,  quite  absurd.  Besides,  he  could  not  be 
expected  to  hang  himself  Yet  it  was  his  duty,  as  head  of  the 
State,  to  know  the  author  of  ever}*  evil  deed,  whether  excusa- 
ble or  not,  and  the  anecdote  indicates  a  determination  to  punish, 
or  at  least  expose,  ever}-  offender,  however  great.  Otherwise, 
the  police  would  scarcely  have  dared  to  comjily  with  liis  com- 
mand. It  would  have  been  easy  to  feign  ignorance,  had  they 
not  known  that  such  ignorance  found  no  excuse  in  his  e^'cs. 

In  view  of  such  considerations,  it  has  been  proposed  to  sub- 
stitute "El  Justiciero"   in   the  place  of  "El   Cruel."     Upon 
reading  both  sides  of  the  question,  it  seems  probable  that  Don 
Pedro  was  a  person  of  bodily  and  mental  accomplishments,  of 
14 


104  SPAIN    AM"    THE    SPANIARDS. 

a  stern,  unrelenting,  passionate  temper,  soured  by  rivalry  and 
treacherv  ;  but  that  he  was  innocent  of  many  of  the  crimes 
imputed  to  liim,  and  somewhat  sinned  against  ;is  well  as 
sinning;  if  occasionally  violating  the  laws  himself,  yet  demand- 
ing oltedience  to  them  from  others,  and  frequently  blameahle, 
not  so  much  for  what  he  did,  as  for  the  cruel  manner  in  which 
it  was  done.  l>on:\  Maria  de  PadMla,  though  living  with  him, 
has  escai)ed  the  breath  of  calumny  except  for  her  great  liiult, 
and  for  that,  many  jialliations  are  to  he  found  in  the  prevailing 
ideas  of  the  age.  It  appears  reasonably  certain  now  that  they 
were  jirivately  married.  She  was  pronounced  to  be  his  wile  b}' 
Don-  Pedro  in  his  will,  and  liiicnigh  lu'i-  daiightor,  Dofla  Con- 
stanxa,  the  Koyal  Dukes  of  I^ancaster  set  up  a  claim  to  the 
Spanish-throne.  The  fascination  which  she  exercised  over  this 
blood  stained  man,  like  that  of  her  unfortunate  conteniporar}- 
Ines  de  Castro,  over  her  husband  J)on  Pedro  of  Portugal,  can- 
not be  ai)i)reciated  by  those  whose  iortune  it  has  never  been  to 
travel  in  romantic  Spain.  Various  places  in  the  city  are  con- 
nected with  the  traditions  ot  their  lives,  and  the  baths  in  the 
garden  of  the  Alcazar  are  still  called  by  her  name. 

There  arc  in  the  city  other  palaces  and  houses  of  Moorish 
architecture,  better  preserved  than  the  Alcazar,  and  free  from 
the  great  confusion  of  st^'les  which  disfigure  it.  Seville  is  almost 
the  only  place  where  such  relics  exist.  The  civil  wars,  after  the 
downfall  of  the  Beni  Onieyah  and  the  inroads  of  tiie  Chris- 
tians, left  little  surviving  of  their  former  gramleur.  and  the 
Moors  of  Malaga  and  (rranada  were  too  poor  to  erect  costly 
structures.  It  was  otherwise  with  the  great  Christian  caj)tains 
who  victoriously  marshalletl  the  Con([iiisladores,  and  I'eceived 
boundless  grants  of  territory.  Numerous  i)alaces  were  ei-ected 
for  them  in  the  exact  style  of  the  country,  without  restriction 
as  to  luxury  or  exjiense.  Some  of  them  t-ontain  half  a  dozen 
or  moi'c  Patios.  One  of  the  most  perfect  specimens,  though  by 
no  means  the  largest,  is  near  the  present  liaidv.  J  desired  to 
visit  it  again  ;  but  the  good  lad}^  without  raising  her  e^'es  from 
the  floor,  replied  to  the  guide's  request  with  the  ominous  ejacu- 
lation, "  estoy  ocupada,"  which  leaves  nothing  to  be  hoped. 

One  of  the  most  celebrated  houses  in  Seville  is  the  Casa  do 
Pilatos,  erected  by  a  member  of  the  Eibcra  family  after  a  jour- 
ney to  Jerusaleni  in  the  earl}'^  part  of  the  16th  century,  and 
supposed  to  be  in  imitation  of  the  Ivoman  Governor's  mansion. 


CASA    T)E    I'lLATOS.  195 

It  was  once  a  beautiful  jilace,  tliough  suffered  to  go  to  ruin. 
A  feeble  attempt  has  been  lately  made  to  clear  away  the  rub- 
l>ish.  and  the  marble  courts,  with  their  fountains,  have  been  put 
in  order.  A  peculiar  and  perfectly  un-Moorish  feature  is  the 
super!)  staircase,  which  may  comjiare.  lonfjo  intervallo,  with  that 
of  the  Palazzo  della  Scala.  It  can  be  seen  at  a  i^-lance  that  the 
owner's  presence  seldom  enlivens  this  residence.  Everj^thing  is 
in  confusion.  One  of  the  best  rooms  is  converted  into  a  sort 
of  painter's  studio  and  old  curiosity  shop,  in  which,  among  other 
things,  was  hung  a  portrait  of  the  fair  mistress  of  the  house,  an 
Andalusiaii,  and  one  of  the  most  ]icrfect  types  of  Spanish 
beauty.  The  porteress,  a  sister  of  the  artist,  was  very  commu- 
nicative, and  set  no  bounds  to  her  laudations  of  the  painting 
and  its  subject.  Like  most  other  houses  of  state  in  Seville, 
there  is  a  beautiful  garden,  with  statues  and  fountains,  all  in  a 
condition  of  neglect. 

The  finest  structure  in  SeviUe,  which  has  been  erected  since 
the  days  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabelhi,  is  the  Lonja  or  Exchange, 
lying  at  the  south-west  corner  of  the  Cathedral.  It  is  a  noble 
edifice,  built  for  eternity,  and  its  massive  architecture  is  worthy 
of  the  da3's  when  Spain  ruled  the  greater  part  of  the  world.  The 
shape  is  a  quadrangle,  some  two  hundred  feet  square,  with  a 
marble  I'atio  in  the  centre.  Unfortunately,  its  completion  wa.s 
almost  simultaneous  with  the  crumbling  of  the  Empire  and  the 
decay  of  its  commerce,  and,  like  many  of  the  Spanish  ])ridges, 
it  seems  to  be  a  display  of  prodigal  munificence.  The  papers 
relating  to  America,  were,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century, 
neatly  labelled  and  packed  away  here,  and  have  never  been 
disturbed  since.  As  the  building  is  fireproof,  and  apparentl}' 
indestructible,  the}'  will  be  preserved  to  await  the  awakening 
into  life  of  Spanish  America,  for  whose  history  they  are  indis- 
pensable. The  uninterrupted  repose  of  these  archives  is  con- 
clusive evidence  of  the  intellectual  torpor  that  reigns  over  that 
quarter  of  the  globe.  The  white  steps  of  the  Lonja,  facing 
the  gorgeous  Cathedral,  used  to  be  a  cliarniing  place  to  sit  on 
winter  nights,  and  meditate  upon  the  past  glories  of  Seville, 
when  hundreds  of  ships  yearly  ]»oured  into  her  laji  tlie  treas- 
ures of  the  New  AVorld,  and  foreigners  crowded  from  all  ])arts 
of  Eurojie  to  share  in  the  golden  flow.  But,  to  descend  from 
the  sentimental,  it  must  be  admitted  that  my  reveries  were 
frequently  disturbed   by  the  snoring   of  the    watchmen,  who 


100  SPAIN    AND    TIIF.    SPANIARnS. 

made  tins  and  the  opposite  corner,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Callo 
(ie  las  Sierpes,  a  favorite  nappini;  place. 

The  University  is  also  modern,  thoui^h  anterior  in  date  to  the 
Lonja.  As  a  seminary  of  learning,  it  is  in  the  natural  condi- 
tion which  the  long  continued  supremacy  of  the  Inquisition 
wouM  lead  us  to  expect,  and  is  distinjruishcd  rather  for  works 
of  art  than  of  intellect.  The  church  contains  some  magniticent 
sculptures  l»y  Montanes  and  Alonso  Caiio.  Imt  the  most  striking 
objects  arc  the  tombs  of  the  liiliiTa  laiiiily.  now  merged  in  the 
Medina  Celi.  The^"  Avere  removed  hither  upon  the  suppi-ession 
of  tlie  Cartuja  convent.  Over  the  tombs  rejiosc  the  grim 
effigies  of  the  o]<l  knights,  and  by  their  side  lie  the  partners  of 
their  honors  and  Jo3'S.  The  feet  of  the  latter,  in  accordance 
with  the  old  custom,  are,  in  every  instance,  carefully  coveretl. 
Whence  this  custom  was  derived  I  do  not  know,  but  so  rigid 
was  it  in  old  times,  that  the  carriage  steps  used  to  be  so  con- 
structed as  to  conceal  these  sacred  objects  from  inspection,  and 
husbands  went  tlu-ough  life  without  having  seen  their  wives' 
feet.  A  fair  Goth,  wdio  might  easil}-  have  committed  and  been 
pardoned  grave  peccadilloes,  would  have  shrunk  with  liorror 
from  sucli  an  exposure.  As  many  of  tlie  Spanisli  pi-ejudices 
were  prompted  by  the  desire  of  distinguishing  themselves  from 
the  Jews  and  Mohammedans,  it  may  bo  that  a  similai-  spirit  of 
opposition  to  the  Oriental  custom  of  covering  the  face  induced 
them  to  cover  the  feet.  Whatever  be  the  origin,  this  jireJM<lice 
was  deeply  rooted  in  the  natiounl  feeling,  and  was  one  of  the 
regulations  im})eratively  prescriiied  l>y  the  ln([nisiti(jn  for  the 
paintings  of  the  Virgin. 

The  Kiberas  having  left  no  male  re])resentative,  are  spai-ed 
the  mortification  of  seeing  tlieii-  ])onderous  swords  in  the  hands 
of  puny  ilancers  around  a  modern  court.  The  inscriptions  tell 
how  they  lillcd,  in  succession,  tlic  great  office  of  Adelantado, 
Mayor  of  Andalusia,  at  a  time  when  such  posts  were  entrusted 
to  none,  save  stern  warriors,  whose  deeds  were  more  sonorous 
than  their  words,  and  whose  leisure  was  more  nobly  occupied 
than  in  the  unmeaning  gallantries  of  a  subsequent  age.  It  is  a 
]tleasant  thing  to  wander  amid  the  resting  places  of  a  family 
whose  past  is  thus  embalmed  beyond  the  possibility  of  dis- 
honor, anil  whose  virtues  are  perpetuated  in  storied  marble, 
while  none  survive  to  awaken  the  envy  or  conteinpt  of  suc- 
ceeding generations.     There  are  many  such  in  H])ain  ;   but  the 


TOBACCO    MANUFACTOUY. THE    STREETS.  197 

evidences  of  their  former  i;-raiRleiir  have  too  frequently  disap- 
peaved  under  tlie  corrodini;-  influence  of  time  and  neglect.  A 
noble  monument  of  the  munificence  of  the  Rihcras  yet  survives 
in  the  enormous  Hospital  hi  Sangre,  without  the  walls, 
founded  by  a  daughter  of  the  house — a  monument  of  art  as 
well  as  of  charity. 

One  of  the  lions  of  Seville  is  the  tobacco  manufactor}',  a 
vast  establishment,  with  a  number  of  courts.  The  operatives 
employed  are  enumerated  at  six  thousand,  of  which  four  are 
women,  their  hands  and  tongues  ecpiall}"  busy.  A  large  pro- 
portion are  gi2)sies,  and- such  ugly  creatures!  I  can  honestly 
sa}'  that  I  never  saw  but  one  handsome  cUjarera,  though  the}' 
jiassed  twice  a  day  in  front  of  my  house.  Wiiether  it  be  the 
eternal  odor  of  the  tobacco,  or  the  foul  air  generally,  that 
produces  this  wonderful  homeliness,  no  one  can  tell.  Nor  is 
modesty  a  prevailing  characteristic,  though  there  are  excep- 
tions to  that.  A  great  outciy  is  made  in  Europe  against  the 
government  monopolj'  of  tobacco,  but  it  seems  to  me  the  most 
just  of  taxes.  Tobacco  is  a  pure  luxur}-,  which  no  one  is  com- 
pelled to  use,  though,  in  the  language  of  the  first  discoverers, 
it  does  *'  tend  to  open  ye  poi-es  of  yo  bodyo  and  to  disperse 
3^e  humoures  of  ye  minde."  Everyone  is  at  liberty  to  pa}-  the 
tax  or  not,  as  he  sees  fit,  and  surely  nothing  can  be  faircj*. 
Another  advantage  is  that  it  fiiUs  upon  the  men  alone,  for  not- 
withstanding the  prevalent  belief,  women  seldom  smoke  in 
Spain.  I  have  seen  the  commoner  class  indulge,  but  this  sum- 
mer I  did  not  meet  one  such.  The  amount  of  revenue  thus 
raised  to  the  treasury  is  a  serious  item.  At  Seville  they  give 
you  the  onl}-  good  segars  that  can  be  procured  in  Europe,  and 
those  at  one  cent  are  better  than  the  P'rench  at  six.  The  snuff 
manufactured  here  is  mixed  with  a  sort  of  ochreous-looking 
earth  from  Almaj'zaron,  whicli  gives  it  a  reddish  hue.  I  believe 
this  has  always  been  done,  but  in  what  consists  the  advantage 
I  do  not  know.     They  seem  to  prefer  it. 

The  streets  of  Seville  are  b}'  no  means  fine,  according  to  oui- 
ideas  of  space,  in  fact  scared}-  broader  than  alleys,  though 
proliabjy  equal  to  the  best  of  ancient  Ilonie,  and  more  airy 
than  most  in  Ital}'.  Not  more  than  a  dozen  are  wide  enough 
to  permit  the  passage  of  two  carriages,  and  all  run  without  the 
slightest  regard  to  rectangularity.  Tlie  Boulevards,  the  Eue  rle 
llivoli,  the  Calle  de  Alcala,  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  arc  modern 


19-^  SPAIN    AM»    THE    SPANIARDS. 

n.itioiis.  uiisuitod  to  tho  climate  or  the  tastes  of  Andalusia. 
Whatever  they  may  thus  lose  in  rei^ularity  of  aj)i»earaiuo 
they  certainly  ;^ain  in  comforl.  where  the  sun  pour.s  down 
with  i^reater  fury  than  in  Africa  itself,  and  where  one  of  the 
principal  ends  of  street  architecture  is  to  exclude  its  ra3's.  The 
Callc  de  las  Sicrpesand  that  de  los  Francos,  the  principal  shop- 
pin*;  streets,  are  flagged  entirely  across,  and  in  summer  covered 
with  awnings,  according  to  the  usual  custom  in  such  climates. 
Tlifv  are,  consequently,  cool  at  all  periods  of  the  day,  and  as 
the  air  is  dry,  there  is  no  nci-essity  lor  admitting  the  sun's  rays 
to  dissipate  the  moisture.  It  is  easily  comprehensible  how 
travellers  from  the  north,  accustomed  to  the  regularity  of  I'aris 
and  London,  and  the  gi'and  thoroughiares  of  the  J'ormer,  are 
disai)pointed  at  tlie  rirst  sight  of  Seville,  of  which  tlK\y  have 
heard  so  much.  But  the  climate,  which  enforces  such  rules  of 
architecture,  brings,  also,  corresponding  atlvantages,  so  that 
the  balance  is  restored.  Its  streets  are  not  crowded  by  the 
throngs  that  press  the  Boulevards  oi:  the  Strand,  yet  the  gay 
l)alconies,  the  bright  colors,  which  never  fade  in  this  diy  cli- 
mate, the  absence  of  disfiguring  rust,  smoke  and  damp,  the 
veiy  irregularity  itself,  more  than  compensate  for  the  un- 
health}'  restlessness  of  the  north,  lii  its  multitude  of  flowers, 
Andalusia  reseml)les  our  own  country.  Every  Patio  and  bal- 
cony smiles  with  them,  and  at  certtiin  hours  of  the  day  the 
vendors  fill  the  streets,  crying,  in  local  dialect — 

Flor"!  flor'!  flni' ! 
Jasiuin  y  allieli ! 
Rosa'  do  to'  color' ! 
Flor'!  flor'! 

Tiic  taste  for  these  simple  oniamcnts  is  univei'sal,  and  is 
hei-e  abundantly  gratified.  All  scnitlicrn  peoj)le  have  the 
(jlfactory  sense  stroiigl}'  developed,  and  nature  seems  to  have 
kindly  considered  this  peculiarity  in  the  foi'mation  of  Anda- 
lusia, for  ever}'  waste  is  overrun  with  aromatic  herbs,  which, 
in  sofiie  localities  are  used  for  fuel,  there  being  no  other.  The 
streets  of  Seville  are  redolent  of  the  Alhncema.  It  serves  in 
all  the  houses  to  scent  the  fresh  M-ashed  linen.  A  handful  is 
cast  upon  the  brasero,  and  the  article  held  ovei*  the  i-ising 
fumes;  and  the  ladies  sometimes  stand  over  a  ])ei'fumed  l)ath, 
such  as  is  found  in  the  Tocador  de  la  lleina  in  the  Alhambra. 


ANCIKNT    REMAINS. — THEATRE.  199 

The  centnil  market  is  a  delightful  place  on  a  summer  morning, 
on  account  of  its  exposition  of  floNvers,  and  like  every  other 
establishment  in  ScN-ille  is  ampl}^  provided  -with  fountains, 
which  serve  to  keep  them  fresh.  B3'-the-bye,  another  curious 
article  of  sale  in  the  same  market  were  a  number  of  crickets, 
enclosed  in  cages,  keeping  up  a  continual  cri-cri,  which  seems 
to  be  a  fjivorite  music. 

The  private  houses  are  mostly  of  modest  height,  rarely  ex- 
ceeding two  stories.  A  few  modern  ones  have  been  erected  of 
three  or  more,  but  though  they  make  a  finer  show  on  the  out- 
side, they  are  probal)ly  less  comfortable  and  certainly  less 
attractive  than  the  others.  All  the  older  ones  contain  memo- 
rials of  the  preceding  occupants;  to  pretend,  however,  to  enter 
into  an  enumeration  or  description  of  the  interesting  relics  of 
the  Koman,  Moorish  or  old  Spanish  eras,  that  remain,  would 
be  to  invade  the  province  of  the  guide  books.  Those  from  the 
Moorish  days  are  more  numerous  and  far  better  preserved  than 
probabl}'  in  any  other  city  of  Spain.  Cordova  has  little  be- 
sides the  Mezquita,  and*  the  solitary  boast  of  Granada  is  the 
Alhambra,  while  Seville  contains  numberless  specimens,  though 
no  single  one,  perhaps,  ma}^  rival  the  two  mentioned.  You 
have  but  to  walk  along  the  streets  to  be  convinced  of  this  fact. 
The  old  Moorish  wall  survives  in  part,  looking  just  as  in  the 
illustrated  chronicles  of  Don  Pedro,  and  the  bridge  of  boats 
used  to  be  an  equalh'  characteristic  feature,  Init  that  has  given 
place  to  an  elegant  iron  structure. 

There  is  a  good  theatre  at  Seville.  It  was.  however,  closed 
during  ni}'  sojourn  on  account  of  the  summer  heats.  Though 
the  modern  drama  took  its  rise  in  8i)ain,  Spaniards  are  Ity  no 
means  so  given  to  this  amusement  as  the  French  or  Italians 
who  resort  thither  as  almost  the  only  place  of  public  amuse- 
ment. It  here  encounters  the  rivalry  of  the  Paseo  and  the 
stirring  Corrida  de  Toros.  which  are  more  consonant  with  the 
ntitional  tastes  than  regular  tliealricals.  The  Andalusians  are 
probalih-  the  best  judges  in  Spain  of  theatrical  and  operatic 
performances,  but  they  are  much  better  got  up  in  Madrid, 
where  they  compare  not  unfavorabl}'  with  those  of  Vienna  and 
Paris.  Indeed,  the  audience  in  both  cities  arc  no  means  crit- 
ics. Classie  dramatists,  such  as  Calderon  and  Lope  de  Vega, 
appear  seldom,  as  is  the  case  elsewhere  in  Europe.  Every 
place  is  overrun  with  translations  of  Scribe.     I  confess  a  pre- 


200  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SrAMARDS. 

fcrencc  for  the  .Sa3'nek',  wIk-m  I  e:in  uiKk'rstaiul  it,  w  liieli  is  far 
from  alwaj't*,  for  the  plot  is  charnftcrized  by  the  same  inti-i- 
cacy,  and  the  words  used  have  frequently  no  place  in  the  die- 
tionary  of  the  academy.  Spanish  trai^ic  actors  are  apt  to 
overdo  the  thin/jj;  there  is  so  nuieh  traged}-  in  real  life  in 
Siiain.  that  when  they  attempt  to  act  it  the  result  is  generally 
rant.  I  think  it  may  be  stated  as  a  general  rule,  that  cold 
blooded  i)eoplc  make  the  best  tragedians,  for  with  all  their 
efforts  the}'  can  barely  attain  the  appearance  of  nature,  where- 
as the  Spaniard  starts  from  this  point,  and  until  half  a  dozen 
victims  or  so  are  slaughtered,  he  considers  nothing  done — the 
perl'ormance  scarcely  under  weigh.  Then,  too,  as  has  been 
often  remarked,  people  go  to  the  theatre  to  see  something  dif- 
ferent from  every  day  life.  Love  and  anger  form  the  staple  of 
most  dramas,  and  what  author  could  concentrate  these  ])as- 
sions  into  greater  intensity  tlian  is  t'ound  in  coinmon  Andalu- 
sian  existence  y  But  in  comedy,  founded  ujton  national  pecu- 
liarities, they  are  inimitable.  In  truth,  Spaniards,  though 
without  frivolity,  appreciate  highly  a  ludicrous  idea,  if  another 
be  the  subject,  and  their  grave  and  serious  exterior  covers  a 
fund  of  humor.  In  the  Sa^-netc  they  are  simpl}'  acting  lile. 
The  theatre  is,  particularly  in  Seville,  a  place  of  recei)tion 
also,  which  is  very  convenient  for  strangers.  Otherwi.se,  the 
general  arrangements  are  the  same  as  elsewhere. 

Dancing  is,  and  always  was,  a  part  of  the  entertainment. 
Spanish  dancing  from  the  most  remote  ages  has  been  famous. 
The  Latin  authors  bear  testimony  to  the  ravishing  eftects 
produced  by  the  (Jaditanas  in  the  I'^lernal  City,  and  describe, 
though  with  qualitii'd  admiration,  the  warlike  leapings  of  the 
other  provinces.  Wliether  maiikiiul  originally  sprang  from 
one  stock  or  several,  it  is  ceitain  that  the  diU'erent  nations  of 
the  earth  have  become  marked  by  very  great  ])eculiarities, 
which  no  eilucation  can  connuunieate,  and  which  seem  to  be 
radical,  even  in  matters  of  co)uparative  insigniiicance.  It 
remains  to  be  seen  whether  the  culinary  taste  of  the  groat 
powers  can  be  reconciled  even  by  a  congress  of  artistes.  No 
Englishwoman  could  ever  wear  her  dress  with  the  taste  of  a 
Pa)'isienne;  nor  could  either  of  thei\i  imagine,  much  less  imi- 
tate the  grace  of  an  Andalu/.a.  In  tiiese  matters,  the  spiritless 
uniformity  that  is  creeping  over  the  world  is  produced  rather 
b}'  obliterating  what  is  striking  and  national  than   by  making 


ORIGIN.  201 

these  peculiarities  common  to  all.     Spaniards  ma)-  forget  the 
fandango,  bnt  no  one  else  will  ever  acquire  it. 

The  origin  and  historic  development  of  the  Spanish  dances 
is  not  easy,  as  the  onl}-  sources  of  information  are  scattered 
phrases,  culled  here  and  there  ()Ut  the  c)l(l  autliors;  for  the  pro- 
fessors of  the  divine  art  themselves  know  their  calling  only  as 
an  art,  not  as  a  science.  A  great  deal  of  confusion,  too,  has 
arisen  from  confounding  pure  Spanish  with  Moorish,  and  hoth 
with  gips}'  dances  in  general.  The  gipsies  in  Andalusia  dance 
all; — but  the  gipsy  dances  proper,  like  the  race,  are  de- 
rived from  the  far  east,  and  have  little  in  common  w  ilh  the 
Spanish.  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  simply  sensual,  without 
ideality  or  ]>oetry,  except  of  the  lowest  order;  and  when  gip- 
sies undertake  to  render  the  Spanish  dances,  it  is  done  with 
ever}'  license  that  the  most  prurient  imj^gination  can  invent. 

If  the  Andalusian  differ  on  the  one  hand  fi'om  the  nicrc  sen- 
sualism of  the  gips}-,  they  are  equally  removed,  on  the  other, 
from  the  ph3-sical  agility  of  the  Slavonic  polkas  and  mazurkas. 
They  certainly  belong  to  an  age  of  the  world  and  to  a  state  of 
society  in  which  persons  sought  enjoyment  in  witnessing  the 
performance  of  others  i-ather  than  in  i)articipating  themselves, 
as  was  the  case  in  the  ancient  world,  and  is  still  in  the  east. 
Every  ]»rovince  in  Spain  has  its  peculiar  dance,  scarcely  known 
beyond  its  limits,  except  npon  the  stage.  The  wide  difference 
between  them  would  manifest  a  great  diversity  of  origin, 
which  no  competent  ])crson  has  taken  the  trouble  accurately 
to  investigate.  Andalusians  never  indulge  in  the  Jota,  nor 
can  the  Aragonese  supple  themselves  to  the  swimming  01c, 
3'et  each  locality  enters  with  such  real  gusto  into  its  peculiar 
amusements,  that  a  traveller  who  passes  a  dull  evening  in  any 
village  in  Spain  must  he  a  veritable  Ileraclitus.  Neither  gout 
nor  dy.spcpsia  Avouid  be  a  sufficient  excuse,  for  the  climate  is 
an  uncompromising  foe  to  both.  The  same  general  division, 
dependent  upon  temperature  and  tem])erament,  obtains  here 
as  in  the  rest  of  Eurojie.  Those  of  the  north  arc  characterized 
by  agilit}'  and  activity,  those  of  the  south  by  beauty  :md  grace. 
Of  the  dances  of  the  north- west  I  know  nothing  by  pm-sonal 
experience,  excejtt  what  I  have  scon  in  the  streets  of  Madrid 
to  the  music  of  the  ZanilH)inl)a,  anil  that  was  not  very  prepos- 
sessing; Init  the  .Iota  Aragoncsa  ami  the  Manchcgas  of  La 
Mancha  are  difficult  to  resist.     Andalusia,  however,  is,  as  usual, 


202  SI'AIN    AX1»    THK    Sl'AMAUnS. 

the  home  (»f  elefjance  in  this  department.  The  descriptions  of 
JuviMial  ami  Martial  leave  little  room  for  <loul>t  as^o  the  iden- 
tity of  the  ancient  with  those  still  in  vogue  on  the  hanks  of 
the  (ftjadal<iuivir.  Whatever  changes  may  have  heen  intro- 
(luee<l  hy  Moor  or  gipsy,  thoy  aro  certainly  in  their  essence 
not  to  he  derived  from  either  of  these  sources,  and  if  they 
existed  in  the  east,  it  is  sti'ange  that  the  Konians.  ransacking 
the  world  to  ]t:iin])cr  their  pleasures,  couhl  find  llu-in  only  in 
Ba-tica.  From  time  to  time,  the  names  and  j)eculiar  devcloj)- 
nuMits  have  heen  altered  and  hecome  ol)S()lete.  Thus  the  Zara- 
l»an<la,  once  so  famous,  lias,  I  helieve,  entii'cly  disappeared;  the 
fandango  is  of  later  origin,  the  holcro  later  still.  The  (Miurch, 
while  spai'ing  the  hull  tight,  has  always  set  the  seal  of  its 
reprohation  upon  tluin,  hut  in  vain;  with  more  or  less  pruning 
they  survive,  and  gifve  unahatcd  evidence  of  vitality'.  There 
is,  however,  one  enemy  approaching,  whom  they  will  scarce  he 
aide  to  resist — the  s])irit  of  money  making.  If  the  clamnu- 
hand  of  this  spectre  grasp  them,  their  reign  is  over,  and  they 
must  he  content  with  an  occasional  appearance  on  tiie  stage. 
The  foundation  of  every  Andalusian  dance  is  love  in  s(ime 
shape  or  other,  and  the  plot  is  so  arranged  as  to  exhihit,  in  its 
fullest  power,  the  triumphs  of  this  irresistible  passion.  For  the 
most  part  the  maiden  is  coyish,  hesitates,  resists,  flees,  relents, 
— dis)ilaying  throughout  all  the  attractions  of  which  she  is  mis- 
tress. The  lover  ])ursues  with  ])alpitating  heart  ;  hajijiiness  is 
within  his  grasj).  animation  is  suspended — hut  no  I  he  is  doomed 
to  disa])])ointment.  The  startkd  fawn  hounds  away.  Again  is 
the  pursuit  renewed,  again  is  the  ciii*  "'  hliss  dasheil  from  his 
eagei'  li|>s,  until  at  length,  unahle  longer  to  resist  the  intensity 
of  fascination,  she  sui-renders  I  the  world  has  ceased  to  exist  and 
time  is  no  more  I  Oiie  can  easily  coniiireluMid  that  such  a  ])er- 
formance  upon  the  stage,  crampeil  hy  the  rules  of  art  and  the 
criticism  of  a  strange  audience,  is  very  dilferent  from  the  natural 
effusion  of  Joy  and  grace,  which  is  its  foundation,  wiien  danced 
in  the  familiar  circle.  Nothing  can  he  farther  from  the  i-egular 
ballet,  with  its  artificial  emotions  and  stereot^'jied  smile,  than 
the  movement  of  the  same  actors  surroundiMl  hy  a  group  of 
sym])athi/,ing  acquaintances.  Its  chai'acteristics  are  not  activ- 
ity and  skill,  hut  pure,  unatlectcd  grace,  and  a  com])lete  identifi- 
cation with  the  spii'it  of  the  I'omance.  Vor  this  reason  strangei's 
find  Spanish   dances  of  very  ditlicult  acquisition.     I   made  an 


THE    FUNCION. — TIIK    VARIOUS    DANCES.  203. 

effort  at  the  bolero  myself,  I  fear  with  mediocre  success,  thoiii;-h 
my  master  was  pleased  to  say  that  I  was  the  best  foreign  pujiil 
he  ever  had,  the  English  being  (oo  awkward  and  the  French 
too  studied. 

Once  during  my  novitiate,  an  acquaintance — an  empleado,  as 
he  was  proud  of  recalling  to  me — took  it  into  his  head  to  cele- 
brate some  fiimily  festival  with  a  fKiicion,  and  extended  an 
invitation  to  me.  On  my  ari-ival  1  found  the  company  already 
assembled.  As  my  friend  did  not  serve  her  majesty  in  a  very 
exalted  capacity,  there  were  no  dukes  or  counts  present,  yet, 
judging  only  by  their  de]iortment,  a  stranger  would  not  have 
ascertained  the  fact.  The  individual  who  took  charge  of  me 
Avas.  as  I  learnt,  a  distinguished  barber,  and  consequently  a 
personage  of  importance.  Another  very  agreeable  and  stylish 
gentlemen  was  chief  artiste  at  a  confectionary.  The  perform- 
ers were,  for  the  most  part,  relatives  and  friends  of  the  family) 
each  accompanied  by  one  mama  at  the  least.  We  took  our 
seats  around  three  sides  of  the  apartment  waiting  for  the  sig- 
nal. Soon,  the  tuning  of  the  guitar  and  the  preparatory  click 
of  the  castagnette  hushed  us  into  silence,  for  the  dance  is  a  seri- 
ous matter,  and  it  is  here  strictl}-  true  as  well  as  witty,  "  qu'on 
n'ecoute  que  le  ballets  Spanish  popular  music  has  evidently 
little  affinity  with  sustained  melodies  of  Italy  and  Germany,  but 
rather  resembles  that  of  Naples.  It  is  almost  alwa^'s  in  the 
minor  key,  and  for  that  reason,  perha])s,  more  impressive, 
reminding  one  somewhat  of  the  Highland  ballads.  There  is 
something  about  it,  an  undercurrent  of  a  mournful,  unreposing 
character,  by  no  means  exhilarating  when  first  heard.  You 
soon  perceive  that  it  is  in  accordance  with  the  serious,  earn- 
est vein  which  runs  through  the  life  of  the  nation.  Their  man- 
ner of  striking  the  face  of  the  guitar,  front  time  to  time,  with 
the  ]ialm  of  the  hand  or  the  thuml) — (joJpeando — heightens  this 
imjiression.  It  is  thus  a  suitable  accompaniment  to  a  Spanish 
dance. 

The  tuning  over,  business  commenced.  We  first  had  inan- 
chcfjiis,  and  boleros,  and  jaleos  in  abundance.  Then  came  a 
cliarining  dance — E!  torero  y  la  MalKjueiia.  The  fair  one  enters, 
covered  with  a  large  mantilla,  in  the  olden  style,  and  wielding  a 
fan.  The  torero  follows,  concealed  up  to  his  eyes  in  the  ample 
folds  of  his  cloak,  lie  in  vain  attemjits  to  s]»y  out  the  lad}', 
who  avoids  his  glances  by  the  aid  of  the  mantilla,  all  the  while 


204  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

skilfully  onticiii;;  liiin  on  with  Iut  fan,  as  with  a  inai^not.  This 
coqiic'ttin;^  i'*  coDtiiiuod  for  a  lime,  until  the  click  of  a  eastag- 
nctte  is  heard.  iShe  stops  at  the  sound,  her  face  is  exposed, 
the  torero  approaches,  cloak  and  mantilla  are  handed  to  the 
bystanders,  and  the  couple  bound  forward  in  the  undulations  of 
the  fandango.  After  this  we  had  the  world-renowned  Ole, 
the  ])erfection  of  its  style.  The  performer  has  no  companion, 
neither  is  she  bound  b}-  any  rules  of  art.  No  one  can  succeed 
who  relies  u))ori  au^hl  but  ins]>iration.  Science  and  education 
avail  nothin;^.  Compared  with  this,  the  others  are  the  Hrst 
rudiments  of  speech  beside  the  wild  oratory  of  an  Ai-al)  chief- 
tain. Every  part  of  the  dancer  contributes  to  j>roduce  the 
gcnei-al  eilect.  The  arms,  the  body,  the  feet,  the  flashing  ej'o 
combine  to  work  the  audieuce  np  to  a  phrensy.  and  (lie  influ- 
ence she  thus  acquires  over  their  feelings  can  be  derivdl  from 
no  other  source  than  the  magnetism  which  i)hiloso])hers  have 
so  often  conjectured,  hut  have  failed  to  comprehend  or  explain. 
But  the  most  charming  of  all  was  the  Vito,  if  I  remember 
rightly.  For  this  the  guitars  were  laid  aside,  the  music  con- 
sisting in  the  clapping  of  hands  in  tri])le  time  by  the  whole 
company,  intermingled  with  snatches  of  a  wild,  jdaiuiive  mel- 
ody. Oni!  girl  alone  danced.  She  is  supposed  to  be  the  l>elle 
of  the  village  in  the  midst  of  her  bciiux.  Commencing  witli  a 
handkerchief  wound  about  her  waist,  she  dances  around  the 
circle  once  or  twice,  and,  as  she  becomes  inspirited,  unties  it 
and  uses  it  as  an  additional  means  of  forming  those  waving 
lines  of  beauty  which  artists  have  recognized.  The  j)erson  to 
whom  she  throws  the  handkerehief  is  the  happy  indiviilual  ot' 
her  choice,  and  he  is  in  duly  bound  to  receive  it  on  hi.s  knees. 
The  jioint  consists  in  dancing  before  each  of  her  admirers,  until, 
bewildered  with  the  iiitoxiealing  inlluenei-.  and  in  certain  ex- 
pectation that  tiie  guenlon  has  already  left  her  liand,  he  falls 
before  her,  when  she  with  a  c()«|uettish  smile  of  triumph  glides 
awa}'  to  torture  and  disappoint  another.  The  luckless  wight  is 
greeted  with  shouts  of  laughter,  otlierwise  no  sound  is  heard 
save  the  nnisic.  The  use  made  of  the  handkerchief  will  be 
significant  to  students  of  Oriental  nuiiniers.  Sevi'ral  had  been 
otlered  up  to  the  ])ride  of  the  dant-er  and  tiie  amusement  of  the 
coinj)any,  when  my  turn  at  ii-iigtii  came.  J  never  before 
understood  the  fascination  of  the  hird-charming  rattlesnake. 
The  ettect  was  positively  painful;   1  could  see  nothing,  think  of 


CJIPSY    DANCES.  205 

nothing  btit  the  creature  before  nie.  Xot  particular]}'  prettj', 
she  had  become  a  divinit}',  girdled  in  mazy  circles  with  pris- 
matic hues  of  beauty,  and  appeared  to  undergo  that  species  of 
transfiguration  which  is  recoi'ded  of  sonie  great  orators.  There 
was  no  folly  I  would  not  have  committed  at  the  moment;  and 
when,  in  compliment  to  my  being  a  stranger,  she  finally  threw 
the  handlcerchief  into  mj*  lap,  I  felt  disposed  to  burst  into 
tears  or  to  scream,  as  though  some  great  pressure  had  been 
removed  froiii  the  soul.  Tradition  tells  that  the  Church,  hav- 
ing once  determined  to  suppress  the  fandango,  concluded  to 
grant  the  criminal  a  trial  before  a  court  of  reverend  Judges, 
arrayed  in  gown  and  cassock,  previous  to  final  condemnation. 
At  the  appointed  day,  the  advocates  of  the  accused  appeared 
to  plead  his  cause  with  castagnette  and  slipper.  As  the  argu- 
ment proceeded  tlK3  Judges  became  restless,  their  stern  phj'si- 
ognomies  relaxed,  nervous  twitchings  manifested  themselves, 
until,  unable  longer  to  resist  the  contagion,  they  joined  the 
merry  throng,  and  a  unanimous  verdict  of  acquittal  was  en- 
tered. If  the  incident  be  not  true,  it  is  well  imagined,  and 
might  have  happened  without  violence  to  probability.  Cato 
himself  would  have  relented  before  such  an  appeal.  When  the 
handkerchief  was  thrown  into  my  lap,  1  may,  therefore,  be 
excused  for  having  looked  verv  fi)olish.  It  required  some  min- 
utes to  recover  entirely.  AYith  this  dance  the  funcion  ended. 
We  smoked  a  paper  of  cigarettes,  drank  a  glass  of  orangeade 
and  retired;  Figaro  and  myself  bearing  each  other  company  as 
far  as  the  Cathedral. 

Across  the  Guadalquivir,  in  the  faubourg  La  Triana.  it  is 
usual  to  get  up  a  funcion  de  gitanas — a  gipsy  dance — for  the 
entertainment  of  travellers,  of  course  with  a  consideration. 
Dirty,  unwashed  wretches,  the}'  do  perform  beautifully  These 
dances  are.  consequentl}',  supposed  by  most  strangers  to  be 
peculiar  to  the  gipsies,  which  is  not  the  case,  for  every  dance 
danced  by  gipsies  is  not,  therefore,  a  gips}-  dance.  There 
are  such,  in  the  strictest  sense  of  the  word,  but  few  would  care 
to  see  them  repeated  after  one  experience.  Sjianish  dances 
bear  the  mark  of  preceding  ages  in  the  certain  amount  of  free- 
dom allowal^le  in  a  regular  funcion,  but  banished  from  the  stage 
or  private  life.  Our  ideas  of  delicacy  and  propriety  belong 
essentially  to  the  present  century,  an<l  whether  there  were  not 
more  real  virtue  under  the  old  coarseness,  than  modern  refine- 


206  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

mcnt,  remains  still  a  (piestion.  As  these  dances  are  at  present 
pruned  down,  I  certainly  saw  nothinj;  to  condonin  here  more 
than  in  those  countries  in  lOiirope,  whence  we  draw  our  dances 
of  society.  Surely  it  would  bo  diflicult  to  i!na<;ine  anytliing 
so  ridiculously  indi'licate  as  the  jjjraceless  hauliuifs  and  hug- 
fjinj^s  of  the  half  civilized  Slavonic  gyrations,  which  wr  have 
naturalized  anionij  us.  Terpsichore  could  never  have  presided 
over  such  movements.  The  dances  of  Andalusia  are  the  poetry 
and  ideality  of  motion,  and  ihi'  effect  is  ])reei.soly  similar  to 
that  of  a  gallery  of  ancient  sculpture — the  indelicacy  is  in  the 
mintl  of  the  beholder.  Of  coui'sc,  the  manner  of  their  ])er- 
formancc  depends  a  great  deal  upon  the  performers  themselves, 
and  so  does  the  regular  ballet.  Like  everything  else  in  the 
country,  the}'  are  intensclj'  national,  characterized  by  the  na- 
tional virtues  as  well  as  the  national  defects,  warm,  poetical, 
enthusiastic,  superlative  in  both.  All  Spaniards  have  a  great 
indisposition  to  allow  the  sanctity  of  their  persons  to  be  in- 
vaded, even  in  a  friendly  way.  A  stab  is  more  easily*  forgotten 
than  a  blow.  There  is  ver3'  little  personal  contact  among 
relatives  in  ordinary  life,  and  the  same  feeling  is  carried  into 
this  amusement.  I  do  not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  a  Span- 
ish dance  in  which  the  ]»erforniers  toucheil  each  other;  an<l  the 
disapprobation  with  which  foreigners  turn  iVoni  the  fandango, 
cannot  approach  the  disgust  an  old  fashioned  Sj)aniard  would 
feel  for  the  raise  a  deux  temps.  Of  the  greater  licentious  ten- 
dency of  the  latter,  I  have  lilile  doubt,  'flie  jiar^'uts  of  a 
young  gipsj',  who  Avill  witness  with  a])i»lause  and  pride  the 
ver}'  questionable,  or  rather  unquestionable  evolutions  of  their 
kinswoman,  would,  like  herself,  resist  any  unwarranted  free- 
dom suggested  by  such  a  j)resumption,  with  as  much  astonish- 
ment as  fury.  The  number  of  dances  is  infinite,  as  every 
person  is  at  libert}'  to  improvise  a  now  one  when  under  the 
insj)iration  of  the  Muse.  Some  have  penetrated,  as  summer 
travellers,  across  the  P^'^renees — such  as  the  Cachucha,  el  Za])at- 
eado,  the  Bolero,  the  Jota  Aragonesa.  The  names  of  those 
that  remain  at  home  is  Tjegion.  There  is  no  diliiculty  in  get- 
ting up  a  funcion  in  any  village,  however  poor.  A  click  of  the 
castagnettes  and  the  whole  world  is  alive.  The  fii-st  sound 
behind  the  curtain  of  a  theatre  hushes  everyone  into  atten- 
tion. The  contagion  is  very  talching,  too.  Foreigners  are 
soon  bitten  with  the  mania,  and  the  most  refreshing  chapter  in 


RELKUOUS    AND    SOCIAL.  207 

Allison,  or  even  a  niuuber  of  the  Congressional  Globe,  with  an 
aecount  of  the  last  light,  would  be  powerless  to  withhold  one 
from  tlie  circle.  AVho  can  measure  the  happiness  which  this 
innocent  amusement  pours  into  the  tasteless  cup  of  the  poor? 
Among  the  nations  which  enjoy  the  credit  of  having  made  the 
greatest  advances  in  civilization,  all  natural  pleasures,  spring- 
ing spontaneously  from  everyday  life,  as  green  leaves  from  the 
liough,  are  banished.  Have  the}''  been  rendered  the  happier 
thereby?  Are  civilization  and  innocent,  unpremeditated  relaxa- 
tion inconsistent  ?  These  are  grave  questions,  scarcely  in  our 
power  to  answer,  as  there  seems  to  be  a  current  in  events 
wliich  we  not  only  cannot  control,  but  whose  direction  we  can- 
not even  ascertain. 

Dancing  in  Spain  was  formerly  not  contined  to  social  life. 
In  imitation  of,  or  rather  in  similarity  to  the  customs  of  the 
Hebrews,  it  entered  into  religion,  and  on  certain  occasions,  a 
party  in  full  costume,  with  castagnettes,  danced  before  the  altar 
as  did  David  before  the  ark.  The  time  has  certainly  gone  by 
for  such  a  manifestation  of  devotion,  though  it  survives  in  a 
sect  in  our  own  country.  The  national  dances  have  also  disap- 
peared from  polite  society,  at  least  the}'^  are  danced  only  in  pri- 
vate. I  believe  the  young  girls  learn  them ;  indeed  I  have 
known  ladies  of  rank  to  devote  much  pains  to  their  acquisition, 
but  not  for  the  ball  room.  Xo  schooling  could  possibly  be  so 
effectual  for  the  purpose  of  cultivating  and  developing  the  far- 
famed  Andalusian  grace.  Certainl}-  the  Andaluzas  alone  can 
dance  them  as  they  should  be  danced,  and  were  there  nothing 
else  in  Seville,  it  would  almost  be  worth  a  trip  across  the  At- 
lantic to  attend  a  rcij-ular  ftincion. 


CuAPTEu  xir. 

JU'  L  I.    I-  1  (i  II  TS. 

Historical — Plaza  de  Toro? — Majo  and  Miija — The  Cuadrilla — Description  of  the 
Corrida — The  Xovillos— ^Emliollados — Breeds  and  Qualities  of  the  Bull.-' — Pro- 
prefsg  of  the  Science — Its  morality;  its  effect  upon  the  audience;  upon  the  econo- 
my— Tlie  Bull  in  Spain — E.\i>ense. 

Sevilk'  lieing  the  home  and  hcatJqiuxrters  of  the  fancy — tlie 
aficion — this  is  the  ])r()]itjr  ])lac'e  to  say  a  word  upon  the  suhject 
of  bull  fii^jhting,  wliieh  no  travcllei-  in  Spain  could  venture  to 
omit.  Pomk-i-ous  tomes  have  been  written  to  discuss  the  origin 
of  this  aniusoment.  Some  few  facts  tire  reasontibly  certain. 
There  is  little  grouml  for  sn])])osinir  that  the  Komiins,  or  the 
ancient  Spaniards,  or  even  the  Maiiritanians  were  ticcpiainted 
with  the  Cijiridade  Toros,  althoiiii;h  tiie  i»ractice  (jf  pitting  wild 
beasts  against  gladiators,  or  each  other,  was  in  gretit  vogue 
throughout  the  em]»ire,  as  is  attested  iiy  the  magnificent  ruins 
yut  surviving  in  the  different  j)rovinces;  tind  in  cattle  countries 
people  may  have  played  with  Imlls  foi-  the  amusement  of  the 
po])ulact',  as  in  Thrace  lor  e.\ani])le.  But  we  tirst  tind  tiie 
voi-itahK'  hidl  tight  among  the  Andalusian  Moors,  and  it  was 
the  favorite  diversion  of  the 

Cuhalleros  Oranndinos 
Aun(|ue  morns  liijosdalgo, 

who  regarded  it  with  ideas  Xi^^ry  difteretit  from  those  wliich 
sustained  the  old  ghuliatorial  sj)orts.  "With  the  mob  of  the 
Eternal  City  it  was  a  mere  scene  of  slaughter,  a  contest  too 
often  between  wretched  captives  who  embraced  this  faint 
chance  of  escaping  an  otherwise  inevitable  death.  With  the 
Aiidalusian  Moslems,  it  was  a  theatre  for  the  display  of  maidy 
grace  and  prowess,  and  its  actors  the  youthful  galUmts  of  the 
court.  But  even  with  them  it  must  have  been  of  late  origin. 
I  am  not  aware  of  any  allusion  to  it  under  the  dynasty  of  the 


IITSTORIOAI;. — FIESTAS    RKALES.  20!) 

Beni  Omc3'ali.  War  was  still  too  serious  and  frequent  a  reality 
to  admit  of  playing  with  its  counterfeit.  The  only  relaxations 
were  litei-ature  and  architecture.  As  in  the  progress  of  events, 
the  Molianiniedan  thirst  for  conquest  became  slaked,  and  the 
pursuit  of  litei'ature  seemed  to  decline,  these  warlike  amuse- 
nuMils  sprung  up.  From  them  the  taste  jiassed  to  theChris- 
tians,  who  couUl  not  quietly  permit  them  to  excel  in  a  sport  that 
elicited  such  ajiplause  from  the  fairer  portion  of  creation.  The 
Cid  is  said  to  have  been  one  of  the  first  Castillians  who  entered 
the  lists.  It  is  exceedingly  probable  that  the  .Spaniards  de- 
rived the  thing  frotn  the  Moors  and  the  paraphernalia  from  the 
Romans,  for  the  Plaza  de  Toros  at  present  is  a  perfect  repre- 
sentation of  the  amphitheatre.  In  old  times  the  streets  enter-, 
ing  the  public  square  were  barricaded,  and  the  knights,  mounted 
on  their  best  steeds,  contended  with  the  raging  animals;  their 
skill  consisted  then  in  not  merely"  harassing  the  bull  or  saving 
the  rider's  own  life,  but  also  that  of  his  horse,  a  much  more  noble 
object  than  the  present.  This  was  kept  up  at  all  events  down 
to  the  war  of  the  Succession,  as  is  proved  by  the  descriptions 
of  travellers  at  that  time,  and  even  in  this  century  the  Corrida 
in  small  towns,  which  ai'c  without  the  luxur}'  of  a  regular 
Plaza,  takes  place  in  the  public  square  barricaded  as  formerly. 
In  Seville,  the  present  Plaza  de  la  Constitution  was  the  thea- 
tre. Corridas,  in  the  ancient  style,  now  take  place  at  the  "  Fies- 
tas reales,"  which  are  celebrated  at  a  coronation  in  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  at  Madrid,  with  great  pomp  and  luxury,  the  borses 
being  from  the  royal  stables,  and  the  combatants,  gentlemen. 
But  with  these  exceptions  the  old  plan  has  gone  almost  entirely 
out  of  fashion,  and  the  toreros  (bull  fighters)  are  as  much 
trained  artists  as  actors  in  a  theatre.  Sometimes  aficionados 
(amateurs)  from  among  the  3'oung  gentry  get  up  a  corrida, 
which  is  then  far  more  entertaining,  as  all  their  relatives  turn 
out  in  a  mass,  and  with  redoubled  interest  in  the  performance. 
On  such  occasions  the  bulls  are  young,  and  are  reduced  to  the 
level  of  their  unprofessional  opponents.  The  critic,  moreover, 
can  detect  the  want  of  that  immensely  developed  strength  in 
the  wrist,  necessary  to  keep  the  bull  and  the  horse  apart  in  the 
crush. 

As  bull  fights,  like  horse  races,  resemble  each  other  in  their 
general  traits,  I  shall  describe  one  for  all,  without  particular 
regard  to  the  clu'onoU)gical  order.     I  was  in  very  good  com- 
15 


210  SPAIN    ANP    THK    SPANIARDS. 

pany  that  day,  for  as  it  was  an  unusual  occasion — I  forgot  \)vq- 
cisoly  what — (licre  was  a  goiuM-al  turn  out,  oven  of  those  who 
were  not  in  the  liahit  of  attending  sucli  exhihitions.  The  nar- 
row  streets   were  strung  with  vehicles,  many  coming  from  a 

considerahle  distance,  and  tilled  with   men  and  women  in  tho 

# 

purest  national  costumes.  Vendors  of  fans,  fruit,  orchata  and 
segars,  surrounded  the  building,  cr3ing  their  wares  at  the  ut- 
most. We  made  our  wa}'  with  some  dillicult}'  through  the 
tlirong,  and  took  our  scats  in  a  pnho  dc  sombro  (hox  on  the 
shady  side  )  lielonging  to  the  family,  for  the  boxes  are  placed 
pretty  much  upon  the  same  footing  as  those  in  the  theatre.  It 
was  a  curious  sight.  The  vast  amphitheatre  was  crowded  to 
rejtlelion.  Circles  of  fluttering  fans,  variegated  drosses  and 
flowers  rose  in  tiers  above  each  other,  all  ros])len<lent  in  the 
ra3's  of  a  Seville  sun,  and  uft'ering  to  view  a  far  more  engaging 
scene  than  an}'  theatre.  The  boxes  wei'o  occupied  by  the 
beauty  and  chivalry  of  the  land,  and  graced  too  by  the  pre- 
sence of  a  member  of  the  royal  family.  The  arena  itself  ])re- 
sented  the  aspect  of  an  exchange,  such  was  the  interested  and 
eager  api>earanco  of  the  men  who  moved  about.  Even  the 
neighboring  housetops  were  covered  b^-such  as  could  notattbrd 
the  expense  of  entering  the  amphitheatre.  The  Andalusian 
costume  flourished  in  perfection,  for  this  is  a  full  dress  occasion 
— knee  breeches,  laced  gaiters,  opening  to  show  a  tine  stocking, 
silk  ffija  or  sash  wound  around  the  waist,  neat  fitting  emliroid- 
ered  jacket,  covereil  with  tassels  and  glittering  ornaments, 
with  a  pocket  hamlkerchief  in  each  poeket,  I'ancy  neckerchief 
passing  through  a  ring,  the  whole  surmonnte<l  by  the  eaUnns 
hat.  A  long  slender  stick  in  the  right  hand  fiiiislus  the  com- 
plete riKiJo.  A  Seville  itiajo  does  not  exactly  ctn'rcspond  to 
•'dandy"  in  our  tongue.  There  is  nothing  ridiculous  about 
him — quite  the  contrary.  Jle  must  of  course  be  tlii'  best  dress- 
ed man  on  the  ground,  stunning  in  his  attire;  ho  must  also 
be  the  best  horseman,  the  best  handler  of  the  knife,  a  dignified, 
gcniieinanly  bully,  inst'iisibU-  to  leai",  and  to  I'ouiid  oil"  all,  a 
gallant  man  with  the  ladies.  'J'hen  his  position  and  authority 
are  undisputed.  Jle  reigns  supreme,  and  moves  about  in  the 
throng,  conscious  that  the  e^^es  of  envj-ing  youth  are  fixed  upon 
him.  The  7naja  is  the  female  majo,  minus  his  worse  qualities, 
and  is  altogether  of  a  higher  type  than  the  manola  of  Madrid. 
She  is  as  fond  of  dress  and  res])len(len(   in    her  a[)i)arel  as  the 


ALC5UAZILS.  211 

majo.  Tlicrcwith  is  united  the  unavoidable  grace  of  her  native 
land,  and  she  is  also  Salada  .'  mxuj  SaJada  '.  No  one  can  make 
a  speech  to  her  so  witty,  that  she  cannot-  return  a  still  wittier 
answer.  Yet  appeal  to  those  women,  in  whatever  rank  of  life, 
'and  the  genuine,  unadulterated  kindness  of  the  Andalusian 
'heart  will  pour  forth. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  at  Seville  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
kingdom,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred  feet  in 
diameter.  The  arena  is  surrounded  by  a  barrier  some  six  feet 
high.  This  is,  in  turn,  encircled  by  a  gangway  a  yard  or  so  in 
width,  and  then  rise  the  seats  in  successive  tiers.  After  these 
are  the  boxes.  The  arrangements,  the  entrances,  and  even 
the  manner  of  designating  the  places,  are  precisely  as  in  the 
Coliseum,  except  that  the  silken  awning  is  replaced  by  the  still 
<leeper  azure  of  an  Andalusian  sky.  Measured  I\y  the  stand- 
ard of  wages,  the  prices  are  high;  the  places  in  the  shade  (de 
sombra)  costing  most ;  then  those  which  are  in  the  shade  part 
of  the  time  and  part  in  the  sun  (de  sol  }•  sombra);  lastly,  the 
sunnj^  side,  where  the  sovereigns  roast  in  a  temperature  that 
would  cause  a  sunstroke  elsewhere,  without  seeming  to  sutfer 
evil  consequences  from  the  exposure. 

The  goddess  of  Silence  had  been  banished  far  away;  a  uni- 
versal hum  rose  from  all  sides.  The  "  human  voice  divine" 
vainly  struggled  for  a  place  amid  the  clicking  of  fans,  and  the 
screams  of  the  water  sellers  (whom  I  except  from  any  suspi- 
cion of  divinity),  crjnng  at  their- loudest,  "Agud-d-dh!  Agud- 
d-dh!  math  frethca  que  la  nie-e-ebe!  qu'wn  quiere  agud-d-dh?" 
(Water!  AVater!  cooler  than  snow!  who  wants  water 5*)  Just 
as  the  appointed  hour  struck,  a  platoon  of  infantry,  in  tuU  uni- 
form, entered  and  took  their  seats.  These  serve  the  double 
purpose  of  repressing  any  riot  that  might  occur,  and  of  killing 
the  bull,  should  he  l»ecome  dangerous  to  the  audience.  In  the 
meantime,  the  dragoons  had  cleared  the  ring  of  stragglers, 
dogs,  fruit  sellers  and  dead  heads.  The  corrcgidor  then 
entered  the  box  of  state,  the  little  flag  was  laid  before  him, 
and  l)usiness  commenced.  Two  alguazils  now  made  their  ap- 
]icarancc,  mounted  on  beautiful  coal  black  Andalusian  steeds, 
and  dressed  in  the  costume  of  Philip  IPs  time,  with  slashed 
sleeves  and  waving  plumes,  to  demand  from  the  corrcgidor 
the  key  of  the  Toril,  or  place  where  the  bull  is  confined. 
These  functionaries  are  not  popular,  and  are  sometimes  even 


I'l'i  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SI'AMARDS. 

jfered  by  the  disivspectful  mob.  to  wliic-b,  however,  they 
appear  .supremely  iiulilVerent.  So  soon  as  the  object  of  their 
mission  was  accomplished,  another  door  opened,  and  the  iiuui- 
rilla.  (»r  company,  nnulc  its  appearance,  i^littering  in  their 
ti^Iil  fitting  <;arnu'nts.  The  two  esjiadas,  or  swordsmen, 
niarched  in  front;  next  come  the  cluilos,  two  and  two.  and 
last  the  jiicadors,  foll<)we<l  by  the  mule  teams.  The  costume 
of  the  espada  is  the  ancient  dress  of  Spain,  exce])t  that  the 
materials  are  of  the  richest  and  costliest  description.  Jle 
wears  a  satin  Jacket  and  vest,  embroidered  with  ijold  and 
adornetl  with  numerous  tassels;  a  silken  sash  encircles  his 
waist;  knee  breeches,  with  silken  stockinu;s,  enclose  his  Icujs. 
The  hair  is  gathered  sometimes  into  a  knot,  with  a  gaudy 
rosette,  and  sometimes  enclosed  in  a  net-worked  bag.  That  of 
the  chulos  is  similar.  The  picadors  are  more  sub.stantially 
clad,  with  the  addition  of  an  iron  casing  for  the  right  leg,  anil 
a  broad  brimmed  planlation  lial.  They  are  armed  with  a 
substantial  pike,  some  nine  feet  in  length,  having  a  triangular 
p^ramidical  jjoinl  of  an  iiieh  inserteil  at  tlie  end,  Miiieh  is 
sufficient  to  prick  the  bull,  and  turn  liini  oil.  without  inllicling 
sericjus  injury.  The  hero  of  the  bull  light,  next  to  the  bull 
himself,  is  the  espada;  he  is  the  star,  the  Corypheus  of  this 
dance  of  death.  'J'he  cuadrilla  is  attai'luMl  to  him,  ti'avels 
about  as  a  part  of  his  train,  and  l»ears  his  name.  On  the  pres- 
ent occasion  we  were  to  be  rejoiced  by  the  juvsence  of  the 
best  espada  in  Sj)ain,  alter  the  unapproachable  Montes,  assisted 
by  some  one,  whose  name  1  have  tbrgotten,  and  whose  per- 
lormance  was  little  inferior  to  that  of  the  great  master,  so  far 
as  neatness  of  execution  was  cijncerned.  The  business  of  the 
espada  does  not  commence  until  the  third  and  last  act  of  the 
phi}-,  when,  as  in  the  Greek  tragetly,  tiie  luro  succund)s  to 
the  decree  of  an  inevitable  fate.  Jlis  is  the  crowning  stroke. 
For  weapons  otfensive  and  defensive,  he  has  a  Toledo  sword, 
whence  his  designation,  and  a  muleta  (a  little  re<l  flag  upon  a 
staff);  but  these,  tiny  as  ihey  seem  beside  the  riotous  strength 
and  fury  of  his  adversary,  when  guided  by  the  c()(d  coui'age  of 
man.  cannot  fail  of  oblainiiig  the  victory.  The  chulos  are 
entirely  unai'ined,  except  with  the  capa ;  their  object  being  not 
to  resist  the  bull,  but  to  pla}-  with  him  and  to  aid  the  other 
]>crlonners,  either  by  drawing  him  into  a  suitable  position,  or 
by  enticing  hint  (dl"  in  case  of  danger.     Their  best  defence  is 


THK    FIRST    BULL.  213 

supposed  to  reside  in  their  legs.  The  respective  qaalitieations 
are,  therefore,  agility  for  the  chulo,  strength  and  consummate 
horsemansliip  for  the  pica(k)r,  skill  and  dexterity  for  the  es- 
pada.  Impertiirbaltle  presence  of  mind  and  self-possession,  and 
the  absence  of  anything  like  a  braggadocio  courage,  are  indis- 
pensable to  all.  The  relative  rank  of  these  parties,  if  measured 
by  the  standard  of  their  pay,  is  the  espada,  the  banderillero, 
the  picador,  and  the  chulo. 

Having  made  their  salutation  to  the  powers  that  be,  the  per- 
formers dispersed  to  their  several  posts;  the  chulos,  Avith  their 
long  cloaks  (capas),  or  rather  scarfs  of  bright  colored  silk, 
scattered  themselves  promiscuously  over  the  half  of  the  arena 
op])Osite  to  the  door  of  the  Toril;  the  three  picadors  took  their 
positions  in  succession  on  the  left  of  the  Toril,  a  few  feet  in 
advance  of  the  barrier,  and  facing  to  the  centre  of  the  ring. 
The  espadas  and  the  mule  teams  disappeared  hastily,  followed 
by  the  alguazil,  so  soon  as  he  had  thrown  the  key  to  the  gate 
keeper.  For  a  few  seconds,  a  deathlike  silence  ensued;  a  pin 
might  have  been  heard  to  fall,  such  is  the  intense  anxiety  felt 
to  see  how  the  bull  will  conduct  himself  on  his  first  a]»])ear- 
ancc;  an  anxiety  participated  in  b}^  the  performers  as  wvU  as 
the  audience,  for  his  dejiortment  after  the  first  surprise  is  the 
best  index  to  his  character,  and  it  is,  consequent  1}',  very  min- 
utely observed.  The  door  opened,  and  out  he  burst  with  a  ter- 
rific snort — an  immense,  powei'ful,  rt'd  skinned  monster,  with 
a  massive  chest  and  an  enomnous  pair  of  horns.  He  belonged 
to  the  class  of  daro  or  sencillo,  who  are  frank,  and  free  from  sly 
tricks,  and  run  directly  at  the  object — the  least  dangerous  of 
all.  Astounded  at  the  blast  of  trumpets,  the  shouts  and  Avav- 
iug  of  handkerchiefs,  which  greeted  his  entry,  and  blinded  by 
the  fierce  sunlight,  he  paused  for  a  moment  near  the  centre  of 
the  arena,  glared  defiantly  and  angrily  around  and  plunged  at 
the  first  horse.  The  picador  received  him  steadily  on  the  end 
of  his  pike,  and  Avas  fortunate  enough  to  turn  him  off.  The 
bull  passed  on  to  the  second,  who  was  not  so  lucky,  but  went 
down,  without,  however,  serious  injury;  the  third  suffered  the 
same  fate.  The  bull  took  no  further  notice  of  them,  but 
rushed  on.  lie  was  in  what  is  called  the  Irranfodo  stage, 
plunging  at  everything  within  reach,  but  n<tt  jtursuing  his 
advantage.  A  chulo  next  caught  bis  eye.  With  a  bellow  that 
seemed  to  shake  the  earth,   the  furious  creature  bounded   to- 


214  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    Sl'AMAHKS. 

ward  liim.  The  cliulo  ran  for  dear  life;  in  vain  did  he  seek 
to  distract  tlio  animal's  attention  by  waving  the  scarf  behind 
liini,  and  serpentining  in  his  course;  it  was  some  distance  still 
to  the  barrier,  and  the  enraged  beast  was  gaining  every  step. 
The  capa  and  the  clmln's  handkerchief,  successively  dropped, 
failed  to  arrest  the  ]>ursuit,  and  as  he  leiii)ed  with  the  speed  of 
a  bird  over  the  barrier,  the  horns  of  his  formidable  adversar}' 
entered  the  planks  below  him.  liaftieil  in  this  atti'mi»l.  the 
bull  trotted  toward  the  centre.  One  of  the  j)icadors  made  a 
challenge.  Jjashiiig  his  sides  with  his  tail,  and  tearing  up  the 
earth  with  his  hoof,  he  roarid  back  an  indignant  iletiance. 
Suddenly  lowering  his  head  he  made  a  tremendous  rush,  and, 
breaking  in  the  guard,  drove  his  horn  deep  into  the  poor 
horse's  side,  who  fell  dead  with  scarcely  a  groan.  The  pica- 
dor, caught  beneath  his  body,  lay  perfectly  still,  w  liich  was  his 
only  chance.  By  this  time,  the  chulos  had  run  up  with  tlicir 
cloaks,  like  a  flock  of  martins,  and  tolled  the  bull  off  to  an- 
other place.  The  dismounted  picador  was  relieved  from  his 
situation,  mounted  a  fresh  horse,  the  saddle  and  bi'idle  were 
taken  olf  the  dead  one,  and  all  went  on  merrily.  The  same 
picador  approached  the  bull  a  second  time,  but  with  no  better 
success;  down  he  went  again.  This  time,  however,  he  was  off 
with  a  sci-atch.  Two  more  hoi'ses  were  killed,  anil  one  badly^ 
woumled.  when  the  bull  began  to  shrink  I'rom  these  bootless 
encounters.  Jlr  had  received  several  severe  wi)unds,  and  a 
large  red  streak  showed  one  of  a  foot  in  length  across  the 
shoulder. 

Tlu'  trnni]»ct  sounded  for  the  si'cond  ai't.  The  pii-adoi's  re- 
tired from  the  scene,  contenting  themsi-lves  with  riding  around 
the  tabids,  and  the  banderillcros  entered,  who  are  generally 
takrn  from  aiiioiig  llie  chulos,  but  tin-  ojieratioii  i-eipiires  a 
givat  (leal  niorr  skill  and  self-possession  than  is  necessary  for 
a  mere  cIiuId.  It  consists  in  sticking  a  pair  of  barbed  darts,  a 
lb)t  and  a  ball'  or  two  fei't  long,  oi-namented  with  c  )lorcd 
wi'caths  of  ])aj)er,  or  some  similar  substance,  into  the  ImiII's 
neck,  one  on  each  side,  at  r(|ual  distances.  When  well  dune  it 
is  one  of  the  most  graceful  operatitms  of  the  ring,  and  ap|iears 
to  be  vi'ry  dangerous,  though  they  say  it  is  not  so  to  a  skilful 
person.  Tlic  bull  looked  at  the  first  banderillero  i-ather  with 
an  expressiini  of  curiosity  than  olbciwise,  as  if  wondering  what 
nnmner   of  man    ho    niijiht    be.      The    banderillero   stood   his 


THE    FIRST    BULL.  215 

ground,  making  a  kind  of  ox])ansive  niovenient  witli  his  arms, 
like  tlie  wings  of  an  artiticial  bird.  He  was  an  active,  supj)le 
little  fellow,  quite  a  match  for  his  weighty  opponent.  To  solve 
the  mastery,  the  bull  made  a  rush ;  the  bandcrillero  stood 
lightly  balanced  on  his  toes  a  moment;  the  bull  lowered  his 
head  for  the  final  toss  ;  the  bandcrillero,  leaning  forward, 
planted  the  darts  exactly,  and  leaped  safely  to  the  left,  amid 
the  thunders  of  (he  audience.  "  Bravo,  Pcpe  !"  "  huen  par  !"  (a 
good  i)air)  continued  for  a  minute  or  so;  handkerchiefs  Avere 
waved,  and  several  hats  throvrn  into  the  arena — a  favorite 
method  of  manifesting  gratification  in  Andalusia.  IIoav  they 
ever  managed  to  get  the  proper  hat  back  to  the  proper  person 
on  such  occasions  was  the  mystery  to  me.  It  must  be  said, 
however,  that  they  were  shockingly-  antirpie  specimens,  M'orthy 
of  CVninaught.  Once  1  saw  a  collection  of  hats,  thrown  into 
the  arena,  fare  rather  badly;  for  the  bull,  hapiiening  to  ]niss 
along  in  no  very  good  humor,  took  his  spite  out  against  these 
innocent  coverings,  and  some  of  ihem  were  reduced  to  such 
a  state,  that,  if  found  upon  the  head  of  the  owner  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Donny  brook  Fair,  they  would  have  l>een  proof  posi- 
tive of  a  gay  time  and  "illigant"  amusement.  But  to  return 
to  the  bull.  Four  successive  pairs  of  banderillas  were  planted 
in  fine  style,  all  of  which  enraged  him  greath'.  The  trumpet 
now  sounded  the  third  and  last  act,  and  the  cspada,  who  had 
been  observing  the  scene,  and  probably  studying  the  bull's 
character  from  behind  the  tablas,  leaped  into  the  arena  with  a 
muleta  in  his  left  hand,  and  a  long  Toledo  sword  lying  over  it. 
He  went  to  the  box  of  the  corregidor,  and,  taking  off  his  hat, 
repeated  the  oath,  which  is  to  the  effect  that  he  will  do  his 
duty  faithfully  and  honorabl3^  It  winds  up  Avith  a  flourish  of 
the  hand,  and  the  hat  is  then  thrown  away.  The  matador  is 
the  general;  the  cluilos  are  his  aidcs-de-camj)  or  adjutants,  and 
play  subordinate  parts  under  his  direction,  and  their  aid  is  fre- 
quently necessary  in  ct)untcracting  the  peculiar  tendencies  of 
the  Imll,  as  the  matador  is  necessaril}''  exposed  in  giving  the 
stroke  with  ujtlifted  arm.  lie  approached  the  bull,  and  held 
the  muleta  wilh  his  right  hand.  The  bull  rushed  at  it.  It  was 
quickly  lifted  over  his  head  as  he  passed  under,  seemingly  much 
surprised  at  the  sudden  disappearance  of  his  enemy.  The  jiase» 
de  muleta  'wero  repeated  several  times  until  the  matador  became 
satisfied.     lie  then  shifted  the  mxdita  to  liis  left  hand,  the  long 


21G  SPAIN    ANH    THE    SI'AXIARDS. 

sword  dnn^lod  in  his  ri;4:ht.  The  Imll  mado  aiiolhor  rusli.  Tlio 
sword  entered  his  neck,  separating  the  spintil  cord,  and  he  fell 
instantly  dead.  The  matador  then  wijied  his  wcajion  npon  the 
muhlti,  howed  to  the  corregidor,  and  retired  amid  a  fresh 
shower  (tf  hals.  The  band  struck  np  a  lively  air.  Teams  of 
gaily  caparis<»ne(l  mules  enter,  one  for  every  dead  animal,  which 
were  dragged  out  at  a  gallop;  the  hctrscs  to  be  sold  to  the  glue 
manufacturer,  if  there  be  one,  and  the  bull  to  make  beef  for 
the  p<K»r.  The  fans  now  renewed  their  activity;  the  water 
sellers  recommenced  (heir  vocil'crations.  Fresh  saml  was  scat- 
tered over  the  hhtod  in  the  arena,  and  (lie  previous  combat  was 
already  half  lorgotten,  when  the  ti-um}»et  sounded  lor  the  entry 
of  a  second  Itull. 

At  first,  he  positively  refused  to  tight,  notwithstanding  all 
the  insults  and  im])recations  that  were  lavished  upon  him,  his 
owners  and  his  ancestors.  The  immense  mass  of  heads  became 
furiousl}'  agitated,  and  the  arena  resounded  with  exclamations 
of  every  kind.  The  bull  was  called  a  coward  and  a  mean  ra.s- 
cal ;  the  Impresario  denounced  as  a  rogue.  Above  all  resounded 
the  cry  oi'  perros  (dogs);  but  no  dogs  came.  In  their  stead, 
banderilltis  de  fuego  were  ordered.  These  are  banderillas  with 
some  exj)losive,  detonating  material  within,  which  causes  the 
bull  to  bound  about  like  a  I'ocket.  A  pair  of  them  were  i)laced 
on  him,  and  woke  up  his  lage  most  cffeetuall}'.  lie  proved  to 
be  a  hiirri  citujo  of  the  worst  species,  and  was  very  dangerous. 
All  bulls  whose  sight  is  defective  are  dangerous;  because,  not 
seeing  clearly,  they  do  not  distinguish  between  (he  lure  or 
engafio  and  the  individual,  but  generally  make  for  the  man  as 
the  larger  body.  This  one  gave  a  great  deal  of  trouble  ;  but 
tliero  is  one  fate  for  all  bulls  that  inter  the  arena,  and  his  was 
no  exception.     The  thiril  bull  offered  no  new  feature. 

I  had  attended  the  aptirfddo  in  the  morning,  and,  eidightencd 
by  the  remarks  of  (he  fancy  around,  bad  fornu'il  a  sort  of 
opinion  as  to  the  virtues  of  the  various  animals  that  were  to 
appear.  The  result  of  my  cogitations  was  imparted  to  an 
elderly  accpniintance  in  the  next  box.  who  had  attended  ever 
so  many  fancions  in  his  life — somewhere  up  among  the  thou- 
sands. We  conse(piently  waited  with  some  interest  to  see  the 
gate  of  the  Toril  opened.  A  middle  sized,  but  powerfully  built 
black  aiwmal,  with  a  m<;st  fei-ocious  aspect,  of  the  class  called 
revoltosos,  bounded  out.     A  mass  of  shaggy  hair  hung  between 


THE    FOURTH    BULL.  217 

his  eyes,  makiiii;-  liiiu  look  still  wilder.  Without  making  tho 
usual  pause,  he  made  at  once  for  the  first  picador  ;  demolished 
hiiu  in  a  twinkling;  the  second  ditto.  The  third  horse  ho 
ranmuMl  up  against  the  harrier,  nearly  crushing  to  death  the 
rider,  who  was  saved  hy  l)eing  drawn  over  it  by  his  frieiuls 
on  the  outside.  Tie  then  distributed  Ids  favors  at  large  among 
the  chulos.  The  ai)plause  of  the  audience  was  frantic.  M}^  old 
friend  could  scarcely  refrain  from  embracing  me,  exclaiming : 
"  Buf'ii  toro,  amigo ;  rcnhul  que  es  buen  toro,"  (a  good  bull,  my 
friend;  really  a  good  bull.)  a  gratifying  criticism  to  the  hero  if 
he  only  could  have  heard  it.  The  hull  continued  to  sustain  his 
i-eputation.  One  of  the  chulos,  in  nuiking  a  sucrte  a  la  Navarra, 
managed  to  triji,  and  was  only  saved  by  the.capa  fjilling  upon 
the  bull's  horns  and  blinding  him.  Twice  did  the  bull  jump 
the  l)arrier,  the  first  time  without  harm  done,  for  the  gates 
tiiat  o]ien  upon  the  arena  are  so  constructed  as  to  close  the 
])assage  behind  the  barrier,  so  that  the  bull  must  needs  return 
whence  he  came.  The  second  time,  however,  a  sentinel  and  a 
water  seller  were  caught  behiiul.  The  former  got  past  the  gate 
in  time.  The  latter,  being  somewhat  burthened,  was  a  little  too 
late,  and  had  no  escape  but  by  the  arena.  He  got  rid  of  his 
water  apparatus  in  the  most  approved  style,  and  an  exhiljition 
of  speed  was  afforded  us  worthy  of  the  Derby;  no  serpentining, 
but  a  regular  straight  streak.  The  bull,  following  close  behind, 
spoilt  his  stock  in  trade  for  that  evening.  One  of  the  horses 
received  a  frightful  wound.  I  watched  the  ladies  of  our  party 
to  see  what  effect  it  would  produce  upon  them.  Aw  expression 
«if  intense  and  irrepressible  disgust  overshadowed  their  faces, 
Avhich  they  covered  with  their  fans.  The  horse,  however,  was 
removed,  and  all  went  on  as  before.  One  of  the  ])icadors 
had  aroused  m}^  dislike  b}'  seeming  to  push  his  horse  on  the 
bull's  horns,  and  I  had  been  sccretl}^  Avishing  that  he  might  be 
])unishcd  for  his  cruelty.  My  wishes  were  gratified.  The  bull 
ru8he<l  at  him.  The  horse  sustained  himself,  hut  the  picador 
fell  as  if  struck  with  lightning.  I  did  not  see  what  had  touched 
him,  but  there  lie  lay,  motionless.  The  excitement  and  agita- 
tion of  the  audience  were  fearful.  In  their  anxiety,  they  rose 
from  the  seats  as  one  man,  and  some  ol'  the  ladies  came  near 
fainting.  I  confess  that  my  first  emotion  was  that  of  satisfac- 
tion. He  had  received  his  reward  in  kind.  But,  as  four  of  his 
companions  lifted  the  poor  devil  up,  and  carried  him  out  of  the 


21X  SPAIN    AM)    TlIK    SPANIARDS. 

tliealre  of  his  liuiiil>Io  triuinjilis,  I  could  not  but  think  liow 
nearly  man  is  allied  to  the  beasts  of  the  field.  This  unknown 
wivtch.  whose  motive^  were  probably  as  ijood,  and  his  courage 
as  great  as  pronijded  Alexander  or  Cwsar,  is  converted  by  a  sud- 
den stroke,  a  material  blow,  into  an  inanimate  mass  of  clay,  a 
mere  dog's  carcase.  Can  such  a  i-reature  be  endowed  with  immor- 
tality y  Are  not  those  internal  whisperings  whicii  tell  us  of  a 
divine  sjiark  of  life  within,  and  a  world  beyond,  where  we  are 
to  be  immortal,  the  deceitful  suggestions  of  ])ride]:'  I  looked  at 
my  fair  c<unpanions,  i-adiant  with  beauty,  wliich  compassion  for 
the  poor  bull  tighter  had  rendered  almost  celestial.  My  doubts 
were  n-movcd,  and  1  felt  that  the  voice  of  nature  can  never  lie. 
It  would  be  tedious  to  enuniernli'  all  the  trium])hs  of  this 
bull.  Five  horses  fell  beneath  his  strokes;  a  jn-oportionate  num- 
ber were  wounded;  one  picador  desjicratel}-  bruisc<l ;  another 
cari'ied  out  for  dead  ;  a  ciiulo  within  an  inch  of  the  othci-  world, 
and  a  water  seller  frightened  thi-ee-fourths  out  of  his -wits, 
not  to  speak  of  the  loss  of  his  cooler.  At  length  the  trumpet 
sounded  ;  the  glittering  matador  sprang  into  the  arena  with 
alacrity,  as  if  anxious  to  meet  a  foe  so  woi-tln'  of  his  steel.  The 
bull  fought  to  the  last.  Twice  did  he  receive  estocadas  ;  the 
second  time  he  sent  the  sword  flying  ujt  among  the  seats.  lie 
finally  retireil  to  his  qiicrenriii  (as  any  place  in  the  ring  that 
the  liulls  ]»rei'er  is  called,  and  they  fre(piently  luanifesl  such  a 
l)i'et(.'rencej  near  the  barrier,  and  though  almost  t'xhausted. 
with  the  bloody  foam  dripping  from  his  mouth  and  his  swollen 
tongut'  lolling  out,  the  tiery  glare  of  his  eyes  slidwed  tlu'  si  ill 
unsubdued  spirit  within.  Xo  enticement  could  seduce  him  I'rom 
his  (jinrc/tcid  ;  he  was  thoroughl}'  uphiitado  (leadi'neil ).  It  was 
necessaiy  to  kill  him  a  vuela  pies,  a  dangerous  opei-alion  so 
near  the  bari'icr,  as  by  a  suthK-n  tui-n  the  matador  might  be 
caught  and  crushed.  \  chulo  took  his  position  in  front  of  the 
bull,  a  little  to  the  I'iglit  ;  the  nialadoi-  lowei'e(l  the  iHulcta 
neai'ly  to  the  gi'ouud  ;  the  hull  fixed  his  eyes  upon  it  ;  his  neck 
became  thus  exposi'd  ;  a  rush  t'oi'ward,  a  sj)ring  to  the  left,  and 
the  sword  handle  alone  was  visible  ludiind  (he  shoulder.  The 
blood  gu.shed  from  Ihe  dying  animal's  uioulh  ;  he  made  a  feeble 
cflbrt  to  tui'n  ii]ion  his  adversary,  and  sunk  (piivering  on  the 
earth.  The  jx'nt'lli'i'O  si)i-ang  over  the  barrier,  and  with  a  sharp 
dagger,  a  mlaericordla,  inserted  behind  the  back  of  the  head, 
put  a  termination  to  his  struggles.     He  presented  a  pitiable 


NOVILLOS.  219 

sight  when  dragged  out;  ii  few  minutes  ago  so  jji-ouil  and 
strong,  now,  slirunk,  as  though  consumed  hy  some  Avasting  dis- 
ease. 

As  the  afternoon  was  drawing  to  a  ch)se,  it  was  proposed 
that  Ave  sliould  retire,  and  we  turned  our  backs  upon  the  arena. 
In  the  distance,  over  the  intervening  houses,  could  be  seen  the 
towering  (liralfhi ;  the  sunset  h'ght  tlirew  the  color  of  molten 
gold  over  it,  and  the  massive  Cathedral  at  its  base,  reposing  in 
silent  grandeur  with  marble  thoughts  directed  above.  In  what 
contrast  to  the  vai'iegated  throng  of  animated  beings  ai'ound, 
intent  upon  the  evening's  bloody  sport.  Confused  murmurs 
had  already  begun  to  rise;  it  Avas  evident  that  the  time  had 
not  been  economized,  and  that  the  angclus  would  strike  before 
the  appearance  of  the  last  bull.  As  the  populace  have  been, 
from  time  immemorial,  rulers  at  these  entertainments,  their  will 
is  law,  and  the}'  are  by  no  means  backward  in  the  expression 
of  it.  The  corregidor  comes  in  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
cursing,  which  on  such  occasions  is  most  freely  bestowed.  We 
left  tliem  to  settle  their  accounts  together  and  retired.  I  will 
mention,  in  pasf<ing,  that  the  pica<lor  was  not  killed,  but  only 
stunned,  as  we  learnt  next  day. 

During  the  winter  and  the  intense  heat  of  midsummer  the 
bulls  are  not  in  fighting  condition  ;  in  the  one  they  are  be- 
numbed by  the  cold  and  in  the  other  debilitated  by  the  heat 
and  the  want  of  pasturage.  Their  place  is  sup]>lied  with 
novillos,  or  young  bulls,  four  years  old,  which  are  considered 
playthings  in  Spain,  and  no  real  artist  would  consent  to  draw 
his  sword  against  such  sucklings.  As  I  have  described  the 
best  bull  fight  I  ever  attended,  it  will  not  be  amiss  to  describe 
the  worst,  what  the  Spaniards  call  a  Gallegada  of  novillos, 
because  the  performers  are  either  awkward  fellows  picked  up, 
as  it  were,  from  the  water  carriers  (gallegos),  who  do  nf»t  make 
a  regular  profession  of  it,  or  else  mere  beginners.  There  was 
the  usual  parade  and  ceremony,  with  the  addition  of  a  monkey 
perched  upon  a  stake  in  the  centre  of  the  arena.  Jocko's  dis- 
like of  the  liwli  and  the  bull's  dislike  oi'.Iockoadd  some  e])isodes 
to  the  usual  course  of  events.  The  jticadors  apjiarentl}-  did 
well,  because  the  novillo  has  not  sufficient  strength  to  drive  his 
blows  home,  and  was  still  too  much  of  a  boy  to  be  indifferent  to 
the  prickings  of  the  sjiear.  Jiut  he  made  up  u])on  the  chulos, 
knocking  down  at  least  a  dozen,  for  they  generally  ran  directly 


220  Sl'.VIN    AM)    THK    SPANIARDS. 

before  liiin.  It  wai<  thus  a  nu're  (|iiesiif»n  of  spoeil.  and  many  a 
rent  garment  attested  the  superiority  of  tlie  hull's  \og,s.  The 
first  c'S]»a»hi  was  tlie  worst  I  had  over  seon,  and  I  woukl  liavo 
thouglit  liinj  the  worst  in  the  worhl,  if  I  had  not  soon  the 
second.  Tliis  f«.'lh»w  liad  a  square  lilock  lirad.  with  closely 
eropprd  hair  ol"  a  lilackisli  tinv;e.  It  was  wondi-rful  why  ho 
had  enti'ivd  the  husiness  at  all,  as  he  seemed  to  have  a  mortal 
a|ti»rehension  of  his  foe.  Holding  the  sword  much  asa])oy  does 
a  gun  on  his  first  going  out.  he  would  advance  hesitatingly,  make 
a  lunge,  miss  ot  course,  and  then  give  up.  The  hull  would 
seize  him,  an<l  rip  his  clothes  from  Dan  to  Beersheha.  Once  he 
wa.s  thrown  up  into  the  air  five  or  six  feet ;  of  course  no  harm 
done,  as  it  is  almost  impossihle  to  hurt  a  Spaniar<l  of  the 
lower  class,  they  are  blessed  with  such  unconscionably  tough 
bodies.  I  ex])ressed  in}'  wonder  that  some  damage  was  not 
done.  They  exclaimeil,  "  Oh  I  it  is  only  a  fonr-j'ear-old  I  only  a 
novillo  I"  As  an  isolated  fact  this  was  doubtless  true,  but  I 
did  not  undci'stand  the  logical  setpieiice  in  the  argument.  It 
seemed  to  me  that  the  horn  of  even  a  I'oiir-yi'ar-old  would  be 
a  ver^'  unpleasant  aetiuaintance  to  scrape.  The  tight  still  went 
on.  Once  it  was  necessary  for  the  Kiiriiiif — who  was  below  for 
the  jHirjtosc  of  sujicrinteiKling,  like  Hob  Aci'e's  second — to  ])ush 
the  espa<la  on  to  the  bull  ;  he  finally  i"an  outi'ight,  amid  screams 
of  laughter  from  the  audience.  This  was  worse  than  usual. 
(jJenei-ally  speaking,  some  five  or  si.\  horses  are  killed  even  at  a 
Con-ida  ile  Novillos.  and  these  are  the  entertainments  that  most 
travellers  witness.  The  eei'emoines  and  the  externals  arc 
nearly  the  same,  but  in  the  spirit  of  ilie  ])erfbrniance  there  is 
about  the  same  resemblance  Itetween  the  ■  novillos"  and  the 
"  toros"  as  there  is  between  a  militia  muster  anil  a  chai-go  of 
Zouaves. 

In  cold  weather  there  is  another  I'avoi'ile  :inuisemcnt  of  the 
ring,  viz:  i\\ii  emhollados,  ov  youu}^  bulls  with  iialls  of  wood  on 
theii-  horns.  Everyone  is  at  liberty'  to  Jump  in  on  these  occa- 
sions, as  it  is  a  free  fight,  and  a  great  many  are  counted  out 
before  till!  entertainment  is  over.  They  pull  him  by  the  tail, 
and  he  repays  the  debt,  with  interest,  in  the  same  (piarter; 
nothing  is  left  in  arrear  on  either  side.  I  once  saw  a  fellow 
get  ahinueil  ainl  I'un  dii'ectly  from  the  bull,  who  followed,  pass- 
ing a  horn  directly  uiuler  each  arm ;  the  runner  instinctively 
grasped  the  horns  and   was  carried  several  times  anjund  the 


BREEDS    AND    QUALITIES    OF    THE    BULL.  221 

arena  by  the  now  equally  friii;htene(l  bull,  who  knew  not  what 
to  make  of  the  strange  proceeding.  After  a  certain  length  of 
time  several  oxen  are  turned  into  tiie  ring,  in  Avhose  midst  the 
tii'ed  animal  takes  refuge.  The  einhoUados  withilrawn,  a  clown 
enters,  clothed  in  some  lire  ])roof  jacket,  which  is  liung  over 
with  packs  of  crackers  and  small  Roman  candles.  Thus  armed, 
he  plunges  about  in  the  crowd  like  a  fiery  serpent.  This  is 
eonsideretl  great  fun. 

Much  care  is  taken  in  selecting  bulls  for  the  arena,  and  the 
characteristics  of  the  various  breeds  are  well  known.  I  think 
it  is  the  Baiiuelos  breed  that  have  a  long  black  piece  of  flesh, 
like  a  proboscis,  growing  over  the  snout,  which  gives  them  a 
curious  appearance.  Some  others,  also,  have  distinctive  marks. 
The  races  are  kept  pure  to  preserve  the  reputation  of  the  herd, 
as  the  owner  feels  as  much  interest  in  the  performance  as  the 
bystanders,  and  these  mere  external  peculiarities  are  perpetu- 
ated through  successive  generations.  The  breCd  of  the  Duke 
of  Veraguas  is  said,  at  Madrid,  to  be  the  best.  Travellers  are 
sometimes  merry  over  the  i'act  that  the  representative  of  the 
great  ('olumbus  should  take  pride  in  breeding  bulls  for  the 
amphitheatre.  But  the  descendants  of  the  great  Columbus 
cannot  be  eternally  discovering  worUls;  they  are  men  like  the 
rest  of  us.  The  foil}'  consists  in  attempting  to  make  greatness 
hereditary.  Besides,  the  bull  is  considered  in  Spain  as  noble 
as  the  race  horse  is  in  England  or  America,  and  those  who 
have  ever  seen  him  in  his  untamed  glory,  his  neck  clothetl  with 
thunder,  his  tail  lashing  his  sides,  and  the  dust  fl3'ing  behind 
his  indignant  feet,  will  admit  that  there  are  few  more  grand 
or  terrific  objects.  Surely,  the  ])r()udest  of  English  gentlemen 
woi^Jd  bo  glad  to  add  to  his  title  that  of  breeding  the  best  race 
horse  in  the  kingdom,  and  there  is  nothing  ludicrous  about 
the  corresponding  taste  in  the  Spaniard.  Next  to  the  descent 
is  the  requisite  of  suitable  age,  which  should  be  between  five 
and  seven,  when  they  are  in  their  prime.  The  hair  and  skin 
are  good  external  indices  to  the  mettle  and  character  of  the 
bull.  The  former  should  be  fine,  and  a  plenty  of  it,  glistening 
to  the  light,  and  equally  distributed.  The  latter  sot\  and 
supple  to  the  touch.  The  color  is  generally  uniform.  1  have 
never  seen  a  piebald  or  light  shaded  animal  in  the  arena.  They 
are  generally  black  or  dusky  red.  The  Andalusian  from  the 
valley  of  the  Guadalquivir,  the  compact  Manchegan   and  the 


SPAIN    ANI>    TlIK    Sl'AXIAUnS. 


W^ 


aetiv*.'  N:ivarrese  have  cacli  their  respective  merits.  Those 
from  .laraina.  kinsmen  of  the  hero  of  the  Moorish  balhid,  still 
preserve  their  reputation.  Forei<j;n  hulls  are  l>y  no  means  so 
suitable  for  the  purpose  as  the  natives.  The  flesh  predominates 
too  much  over  the  nerves;  and  thoui^h  larger,  they  are  inferior 
both  in  activity  and  endurance,  and  even  in  courajjje,  besides 
being  spoilt  l»y  contact  with  man,  wliich  renders  iIumu  cunning 
and  dangerous. 

The  whole  knowledge  of  bull  fighting  is  now  reiluced  to  a 
science,  and  there  was  even  a  College  of  Tauromachy  estab- 
lished ill  Seville,  by  l-'erdinaiifl,  iiiider  the  government  patron- 
age, from  wliich  issued  many  distinguished  artists.  The  bulls 
are  classed  according  to  their  dispositions,  and  the  art  of 
eomlniting  is  modified  to  suit  each  class.  From  time  to  time 
contributions  are  made  to  the  art.  The  vuela  pies  for  bander- 
rillcros  and  espadas  was  invented  by  Costillares,  who  gave  the 
role  of  the  espadas  a  development  it  never  had  received  before. 
Candido  did  the  same  for  the  chulos,  llomero  for  the  bande- 
rilleros.  Jlillo,  who  was  killed  in  the  beginning  of  the  century, 
reduced  his  experience  to  writing  and  transformed  the  whole 
science.  Perhaps  the  most  distinguished  of  them  all  was 
Francisco  Montes,  whose  marvellous  exploits  are  still  the  sub- 
ject of  narrative.  No  one  ever  equalled  him  in  the  magnetic 
power  which  the  human  eye  exercises  over  beasts.  JIc  would 
mark  a  cii'clc  upon  the  ground  witliiii  wliich  the  Imll  was  to  be 
killed,  an<l  rarely  failed  in  carr^-ing  (Hit  his  boast.  The  science 
has  a  technical  language,  more  elegant  than  our  race  course 
dialect,  because  it  has  been  the  subject  of  learned  treatises.  Of 
course  there  is  also  a  slang  which  is  as  difficult  of  attainment 
as  the  Jiasque. 

Spaniards  are  very  sensitive  about  criticisms  u[t(ju  their 
favorite  amusement.  If  j'ou  associate  Avith  one  any  length  of 
time  he  is  vei-y  apt  to  ask  your  opinion  on  the  subject  It  is  a 
shibboleth.  Jfyon  like  them,  it  shows  that  you  ai-e  a  iSpaniard 
at  heart,  "one  of  us."  And  they  are  indignant  against  en- 
lighted  travellers  who  complacently  thank  heaven  for  not 
having  made  them  like  these  bull  fighting  barbarians.  The 
slaughter  of  the  horses  1  detest  as  an  unnecessary  cruelty  to 
one  of  the  noblest  of  animals,  which  might  be  easily  obviated 
b}"  fining  the  ])icadors  for  every  wound  their  horses  receive, 
and  rewarding  them  for  every  stroke  they  turn  oft".  Spaniards 
defend  this  part  of  the  entertainment  by  stating  they  are  the 


n 


THE    MORALITY    OF    THE    BULL    FKUIT.  223 


veriest  hacks,  wlio,  in  otlier  countries,  would  be  sent  to  the 
glue  butchery,  which  is  true.  As  for  tlie  men  and  the  bulls,  I 
confess  I  have  no  scruples.  The  men  are  paid  enormously  and 
have  every  pleasure  possible.  They  are  vovy  rarel}^  killed, 
and  there  is  always  a  chapel  and  a  priest  in  the  buildinjT  to 
give  the  last  unction  to  such  as  require  it,  besides  a  h<ispital 
for  the  wounded.  Far  more  lose  their  lives  in  the  mountains 
of  Asturia,  in  the  chase,  or  waste  away  in  the  manufacture  of 
articles  of  pure  luxury,  than  die  in  all  the  bull  rings  of  Spain. 
"We  might  as  well  think  of  crying  over  the  exposure  of  a  sol- 
dier's life,  Avho  is  fro(incn(h'  dragged  against  his  will  to  fight 
battles  in  which  he  has  not  the  slightest  interest.  When  for- 
eigners cease  to  wage  wars  of  territorial  aggrandizement,  their 
virtuous  indignation  against  the  Corrida  de  Toros  will  be 
worthy  of  notice.  The  bull  has  still  less  reason  to  complain. 
Surrounded  with  the  pleasures  of  barbaric  domesticity,  he 
spends  his  life  in  the  midst  of  luxuriant  pastures,  Avhcre  he  is 
rarel}'  disturbed  b}'  the  face  of  man.  Ever}'  bull  must  die  at 
last,  and  it  is  a  mere  balancing  of  enjoyments  to  say  that  it  is 
better  to  work  in  yokes  until  he  is  old,  and  then  be  fattened 
and  killed  in  the  butcher's  stall,  than  to  lead  the  Jolly  life  of  a 
monarch,  roaming  his  native  fields,  and  die  in  the  bull  ring, 
preserving  his  freedom  to  the  very  end.  About  the  abstract 
cruelt}',  there  is  something  more  to  be  said.  It  is  undoubtedly 
wrong  in  the  abstract  to  take  the  life  of  an}-  animal  without 
some  sufficient  reason;  but  as  everyone  judges  of  the  suffi- 
ciency of  the  reason  for  himself,  it  becomes  a  practical  question 
of  comparison.  We  considei- the  ]>aiu])criiig  ot  a  luxurious  ap- 
petite amply  sufficient  excuse  for  the  wholesale  slaughter  of 
pate-de-fois  geese ;  and  the  most  reverend  bishop  in  the  land 
would  hesitate  to  interpose  his  crook  between  an  innocent 
lamb  and  the  blood-tliirsty  butcher.  We  go  with  eagerness  to 
the  chase,  not  for  the  prosaic  purpose  of  jjrocuring  a  haunch  of 
venison,  but  to  enjoj'  the  fun,  to  see  the  frightened  deer  course 
before  the  hounds,  and  bring  him  down  at  a  hand  gallop.  How 
many  of  us  take  compassion  at  the  sight  of  his  tearful  eyes? 
And  do  ducks  and  fish,  or  even  the  writhing  worm  that  squirms 
upon  the  hook,  escape  their  fate  ?  There  are  some  people  who 
fish  for  fish — practical  geniuses — but  the  great  majority  fish 
simply  for  the  sport.  Philosophically  and  morally  speaking, 
there  is  as  much  cruelly  in  the  one  as  the'  other.  But  the  bull 
is  k  large  creature,  the  bird  or  deer  a  small  one,  killing  the  one 


in  SPAIN    ANI>    TIIK    SI'ANIAHl>:>. 

ii>  cruelty;  killiiii;  llio  utlior,  sport,  .lust  as  a  larifo  contiueror 
is  to  be  jilactMJ  upon  a  pedestal — a  smnll  one  (vuhjo,  robher)  to  be 
suspended  from  a  «jjallows.  From  the  mouth  of  a  pioua  Brah- 
min tlu"  rejd'oach  would  be  justifiable;  but  when  we  consider 
that  (loi;  tiichtinij  and  boxini^  are  favorite  amusements  in  the 
most  enlii^htened  portions  of  the  woi-ld,  attracting  vast  crowds 
from  all  (piarters,  even  across  the  Atlantic,  we  can  well  under- 
stand the  indignation  with  which  the  Spaniards  regard  what 
they  consider  a  vaporing  hypocrisy. 

Nor  does  the  practice  of  travellers  C(jiiici<le  with  their  \)V0- 
fessions,  for  however  loud  may  be  their  outcries  at  tiie  first 
exhibition,  they  seldom  ai>stain  from  the  second.  The  fact  of 
their  reiterated  visits  shows  that  there  must  be  some  altracv 
lion  apart  from  the  destruction  of  the  animals,  and  so  engross- 
ing as  to  deaden  the  painful  impression  which  the  latter  pro- 
duces. The  <lilferent  characters  of  the  bulls;  the  skill  of  the 
Torero;  the  fertility  of  his  resources;  the  exhibition  of  calm 
valor;  the  triuni))h  of  human  intelligence  over  brute  force — tiiese 
are  the  great  attractions  which  entice  them  to  the  spectacle. 
They  forget,  or  do  not  heed  the  fact,  that  the  death  of  the  ani- 
mals is  the  price  of  this  gratification.  Neither  do  we  in  accept- 
ing an  invitation  to  a  convivial  entertainment,  reflect  ujjon  the 
number  of  jilieasants  and  snipe  that  are  to  be  slaughtered  for 
our  i)alates.  1  should  be  sorry  to  see  the  Corrida  de  Toros  intro- 
duced into  my  own  country,  because  it  is  not  an  institution, 
Just  as  I  would  look  with  little  pleasure  upon  the  establishment 
of  a  democratic  rei)uldic  in  Kiirope.  But  that  is  verv  different 
from  conclenmiiig  the  Itiill  light  in  Spain,  or  a  republic  in 
America.  Kach  ot  us  digests,  assimilates  and  thrives  u])OU 
poison.  A  vast  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  idiosyncrasies 
of  nations  as  well  as  individuals.  Iniiuinerable  institutions 
productive  of  benefit  to  one  race  or  civilization,  it  transplanted, 
would  give  rise  to  unspeakable  evils. 

Another  objection  against  Imll  lighting  is  the  ellect  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  ujton  the  audience.  Un(piestionalily  the  intense 
excitement  of  the  s])ectacle,  and  the  furious  passions  which  it 
calls  into  life,  with  liie  sigiit  of  Idood,  are  calculated  to  yivo- 
duce  a  very  great  effect;  but  all  this  is,  comparatively,  lost  in 
admiration  for  the  skill,  the  cool  courage,  the  triumph  of  man 
over  mere  In-ute  force,  of  which  the  Plaza  de  Toros  is  the  thea- 
tre. 1  dely  any  one  to  see  the  matador  clad  in  tissue,  standing 
face  to  face  with  the  monster,  without  feeling  that  there  is  a 


ATTENDANCE    OF    LADIES.  225 

grandeur  in  the  scene  far  beyond  the  mere  contest  of  two  ani- 
mate creatures.  It  inculcates,  moreover,  the  great  lesson  of 
frccdon\ — self-reliance  and  individuality — and  tlie  continuance 
of  this  spirit  is  the  best  safeguard  against  despotism.  The 
government  may  be  as  oppressive  as  it  ])leases  upon  the  court 
circles,  and  misrule  the  country  in  its  foreign  relations,  but  let 
it  continue  to  keep  its  hands  otF  the  Spanish  peo])le;  for  so  long 
as  these  (pialities  continue  to  be  practically  admired  and  viv- 
idl}'  exemplified  before  the  e^-es  of  the  populace,  any  attempt 
to  estalilish  one  of  these  intermeddling  domestic  tyrannies  that 
seem  so  fashionable  in  Euro])e  Just  now,  will  be  met  l)y  a 
thousand  knives  from  every  mountain  pass  in  the  Peninsula. 
It  is,  moreover,  eminently  a  national  amusement,  and  a  firm 
rock  against  the  invasion,  the  inconsiderate  adoption  of  foreign 
modes  of  thinking  and  acting,  which  is  fast  reducing  the  world 
to  a  tiresome  uniformity.  The  mantilla  reigns  here  supreme, 
and  the  nuijo  is  considered  eminently  suitalde.  There  is  ne- 
cessity for  some  such  institution  even  in  Spain,  for  a  considera- 
ble class,  fron\  believing  that  there  was  nothing  good  out  of 
their  country,  have  come  to  think  that  there  is  nothing  good  in 
it,  and  denounce  every  national  peculiarity  as  a  relic  of  bar- 
barism, fearful  lest  the  Pyrenees  should  be  regarded  the  west- 
ern boundary  of  Europe. 

Ladies  seldom  attend  the  Plaza  de  Toros,  but  they  do  upon 
grand  occasions,  such  as  that  I  have  mentioned,  not  so  much, 
however,  to  view  the  contest,  as  to  see  and  be  seen  themselves, 
Just  as  with  us  people  crowd  to  the  opera,  who  could  not  dis- 
tinguish Yankee  Hoodie  from  ^lozart's  Pe<piiem.  The}'  arc 
greatly  shocked  with  the  disgusting  portion  of  the  spectacle, 
and  proportionably  delighted  Avith  every  display  of  manly 
}>rowess.  Spanish  ladies  are  courageous  themselves,  and  ad- 
luire  \\\v  <|uality  in  otlicrs.  It  may  seem  strange  that  they 
ever  enteretl  such  a  place  in  the  beginning;  but,  in  truth,  they 
are  taken  there  when  small  children.  It  is  the  only  amuse- 
ment in  most  provincial  towns,  and  the  effect  produced  by  the 
arrival  of  a  Cuadrilla,  is  similar  to  the  excitement  of  a  trav- 
elling circus  in  the  olden  time.  The  whole  town  is  in  commo- 
tion; gail}' -dressed  cavaliers,  in  the  costume  of  the  middle  ages, 
prance  al)out  on  jSciy  steeds;  the  sound  of  tambourines  and 
castagnettes  re-echoes  in  all  the  streets ;  work  is  laid  aside ;  it 
is  a  Corrida  de  Toros!  If  the  children  are  good,  they  are 
Iti 


226  SPAIN  Asn  THK  spAMAnns. 

allowed  (o  po;  so  that  the  Corrida  de  Toros  is  associated  in  their 
minds,  with  holidays,  fine  dresses,  cakes,  and  a  multitude  of 
other  infantile  Joys.  "When  they  ^row  up,  they  hear  them- 
selves slvled  harbarians  by  ignorant  and  unreflecting  book 
makers,  who,  perhaps,  have  a  mind  to  every  species  of  siu 
except  this.  As  far  as  my  knowledge  goes,  the  only  recoUMk' 
tion^  that  Sjianish  ladies  bear  away,  are  those  of  the  i:;i!1:int 
feats  of  horsemanship  and  the  daring  confronting  of  danger. 
They  always  cover  their  faces  with  the  fan  at  the  bloody  por- 
tion of  the  tragedy.  I  have  not  found  them  less  com]i::'*<iun- 
ate,  gentle,  lovely  or  lovalde.  afterwards  than  l»efore.  and  I 
can  only  say  that  if  tln-y  are  injured  by  attending  the  specta- 
cle, it  is  wisely  so  ordained  by  Providence  to  reduce  them  to 
the  level  of  ordinary  mortals — otherwise  some  of  them  would 
be  unfitted  for  the  earth. 

Pctlitical  economists  have  siipitosed  that  bull  fights  interfered 
with  the  increase  of  cattle  by  the  great  destruction  of  animals; 
but  all  of  us  who  live  in  a  racing  country  can  testify  to  the 
contrary,  and  experience  has  jirovcd  in  Spain  that  nothing 
would  be  more  ruinous  in  tlii>  respect  than  their  al>olition. 
Only  a  portion  are  reserved  for  the  Plaza,  and  those  the  very 
best  of  the  best  breeds.  They  are  tried  when  young,  and  if 
they  show  any  backwardness  in  facing  the  spear,  are  immedi- 
atclv  destined  to  ])eacefnl  pursuits,  so  that  the  number  of  sale- 
able cattle  of  good  stock  is  really  increased.  From  time  to 
time  bull  fights  have  been  suppressed,  or,  at  least,  an  attempt 
has  been  made  to  supi)ress  them.  (Jodo3''s  was  the  last;  and 
it  n>ay  be  that  detestation  of  him  caused  the  Toros  to  be  a 
greater  favorite  than  evei*.  Tlic  taste  at  ])i-i'scnt  is  certainly 
becoming  stronger,  and  I  loun<l  that  bull  rings  hud  increased, 
since  my  last  visit,  fai*  more  raj)i(lly  than  cluircbi's.  No  gov- 
ernment in  Spain  could  suppress  tluni  m<>\v,  any  UKirc  than  it 
could  aliolish  the  right  of  going  ai-nu'«l. 

The  jirogress  of  civilization  and  tlie  gi-eater  diirusidii  of 
well  being  seem  to  have  filled  tlic  Pla/.as,  and  attracted  men's 
minds  irresistibly  tow.ird  this  manly  sport,  so  little  in  accord- 
ance with  the  effeminate  industiy  wliidi  lias  taken  possession 
of  the  human  race  elsewhere,  as  if  to  counteract  the  universal 
tendency  of  events.  As  a  general  rule,  the  bull  fighters  are 
from  the  lowest  ranks  of  society,  but,  of  late,  I  have  been  told 
that  persons  of  much  respectability  have  been  unable  to  with- 
Btand  the  attraction,  and  have  entered  the  profession.     One 


STANDING    OF    TIFE    EriJi    IN    SPAIN. EXPENSES.  Tl  ^ 

partioularly,  was  mentioned,  a  person,  by  birth  and  fortune, 
entitled  to  take  a  place  in  society.  I  think  he  was  a  native  of 
Old  Castile.  Ilis  true  name  I  have  forgotten;  he  was  famil- 
\(xv\y  known  b}*  a  soubriquet  derived  from  liis  lowncss  of  stat- 
ure, el  rJiico,  or  some  such  apjudlation.  Tn  truth,  the  bull,  and 
everytliing  connected  with  him,  has  a  prominent  place  in  the 
thoughts  of  Spaniards  of  all  ages  and  classes.  He  is  a  matter 
of  affectionate  sport  to  them.  Once,  in  a  miserable  little  vil- 
lage, where  T  broke  down,  and  was  compelled  to  pass  the  day, 
a  young  calf  took  a  freak  into  his  head  of  running  at  the  chil- 
•drcn.  and  knocked  down  some  half  a  dozen.  Instead  of  inter- 
fering, the  fathers  and  mothers  laughed  heartily,  as  though  it 
Avere  a  capital  joke.  They  are  entirely  Avithout  fear  of  the 
whole  species  under  anj-  circumstances.  If  they  pass  one  on 
the  road,  thej'  shake  their  cloaks  at  him  and  taunt  liim.  If 
they  meet  him  in  the  street  they  give  his  tail  a  pull.  In  the 
villages,  for  want  of  the  great  tragedj^,  he  is  led  through 
the  streets  with  a  slack  rope,  so  as  to  allow  him  to  run  at  the 
passers  b}-;  and  it  was  formerly  a  famous  joke  in  Tarifa  to 
turn  one  loose  in  the  town,  to  the  amusing  consternation  of 
travellers.  The  Corrida  de  Toros  occupies,  more  or  less,  the 
minds  of  every  age  and  occupation.  It  has  a  place  in  feasts  of 
the  Church  aixl  feasts  of  the  State.  It  is  imitated  in  the  nur- 
sorj,  and  danced  on  the  stage.  The  adverse  criticism  of  trav- 
ellers, and  of  their  own  countrymen  residing  abroad,  may 
gradually  inspire  a  conventional  distaste  for  it  in  the  higher 
circles  as  something  unfashionable,  but  at  present  thej^  fall, 
and  will,  for  a  long  time,  continue  to  fall  without  sigm'ficance 
upon  the  ears  of  the  great  body  of  the  Spanish  nation.  So, 
"  pan  y  Toros." 

The  Corrida  de  Toros  is  an  exjiensive  amusement,  and 
always  undertaken  under  the  patronage  of  the  government, 
seldom  b}'  private  enterprise.  The  places  are  high,  compared 
with  the  price  of  labor.  I  subjoin,  by  way  of  an  example,  the 
following  list,  taken  at  random  from  the  Madrid  hand  bills. 
The  value  of  a  real  vellon  is  five  cents  of  our  nione}'. 

Sun.        Sun  and  Shade.     Shade. 


TKsninos. . 


Qradas 


Biirrcrafi  y  tabloncillos. . . .     6 6 10 

Asicntiis   .«in   iiunicracion.. .      4 4 6 

Dt'lantcrng  y  talilonciUos. .    10 14 16 

Centr</.«. . . .' 8 10 12 

AvT>»»An»<.     J  I><;lanfcTas  y  tabloncilloB. .   12 16 22 

(  Ccntro.s .S 12 14 

PAl.ros con  (lie/,  enlradag 120 140 200 

Mcscta  del  toril — Primcra  fila,  10;  Sccunda,  8;   Tabloncilloe,  6;  Ccntros,  4. 


Chaptkk   XIII 


!•:  N  VI  U  ()  X  S  .—  I[  I  S  T  ()  K  I  ('  A  L  . 


Environs — .Sau  Juun  de  Alfariiebe — Custillojn — Italicii — Tin-  Guzman!< — Alcalu — 
Early  History — "  Spain  " — "  Antinlusia  " — "  Seville  " — Al  Mutadeii — Discovery 
of  America — Prosperity  <if  Seville. 

The  uiK'ieiits,  with  a  due  aitpreciutioii  of  tlu'  j)leasuros  ol" 
life,  placed  the  Elysiaii  fiokls  on  the  banks  of  the  ijrcat  river  of 
Aiuialusia;  and  Tliarsis,  the  i;ran<lsuii  of  .laphet,  is  claimed  by 
till'  Sjianiaffls  ti)  have  colonizccl  the  islands  near  its  mouth.  At 
present  tliey  have  become  fertile  wastes,  the  abodes  of  vast 
herds  of  cattle,  seldom  invaded  by  any  except  sportsmen  and 
henlsmen,  wild  as  the  cattle  they  ijuard,  who  are  said  to  rival 
the  Baleiirians  in  tlieir  skill  with  the  sliii::;.  It  is  their  only 
defence  against  the  enrai^ed  animal  when  separated  fiH)m  the 
rest  of  the  herd,  for  thouy;h  insensible  to  wounds  elsewhere,  the 
elightest  stroke  with  a  stone  upon  tlu-  horn,  is  said  to  render 
them  (piite  manaujealile.  All  the  lowei-  valh-y  of  the  CJuadal- 
quivir  is  thus  surrendei'cd  to  nature,  but  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  Seville  is  charming,  though  entirely  devoid  of  what 
constitutes  in  temperate  climates  the  delights  of  the  environs 
of  a  great  city — neatly  painted  cottages,  honeysuckles  climb- 
ing over  arches  and  gates,  and  velvety  turf  Of  all  this  there 
is  nothing,  not  only  here  but  elsewhere  in  Andalusia.  In  its 
place  is  the  extended  valley  of  thi'  (Juadal([iiivii',  luxuriating  in 
oranges  and  olives,  wild  thyme,  lavender,  and  a  thousand  name- 
less herbs,  whose  sweet  ])erfumes  till  the  ail",  as  they  lie  crushed 
beneath  your  horse's  hoof.  During  the  llowering  season  of  the 
orange,  Seville  a])i)ears  oni'  gorgeous  bou(]uet,  an  enchanted 
Paradise,  with  lamps  of  gold  hung  in  a  "night  of  green."  The 
country  to  the  south-west  is  still  called  by  its  Moorish  name  of 
Axarafe — the  hilly  region — renowned  for  its  fertility,  and  cele- 
brated   in  their  poems  as  the  diadem  of  Seville.     Some  few 


SAN    JUAN    DK    ALFARACIIE. — CORTEZ.  229 

miles  from  La  Triana,  the  landscape  is  bounded  by  a  spur  of 
the  Sierra  Morena,  extending  toward  the  Cluadabiuivir.  Its 
slopes,  covered  wifli  olive  plantations,  and  its  summit  crowned 
with  villnges  and  half  deserted  convents,  mii>;ht  well  justify 
the  appellation  of  "  The  Mountain  of  Mere}',"  which  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  borne  in  the  time  of  the  Moors.  The  road  Ihat 
branches  to  the  left  leads  through  an  orange  gi'ove  to  the  vil- 
lage of  San  Juan  de  Alfarache,  formerly  a  miserable  collection 
of  gip!*y  cabins,  but  which  have  now  disappeared,  giving  place 
to  neat,  clean  houses.  AVhether  it  be  the  site  of  the  famous 
Osset,  the  Julia  Constantia  of  the  Romans,  is  more  tlum  I  can 
undertake  to  decide.  Faraj  in  the  Arabic  signifying  "  to  split 
or  divide."  the  name  of  the  present  village  is  supposed  to  be 
derived  fi-DHi  the  cleft  in  the  Cuesta.  Ascending  that  and 
winding  around  the  parapet,  the  path  conducts  to  the  little 
church  whose  terrace  offers  one  of  the  most  exquisite  views 
that  can  Ite  imagined.  It  comprehends  the  whole  of  the  Vega 
of  Seville  to  the  Sierra  Morena  and  the  hills  of  Carmona, 
through  which  flows  the  Guadalquivir,  in  graceful  curves,  direct- 
h'  toAvard  the  foot  of  the  cliff.  At  this  season  the  fields  were 
bare,  and  clouds  of  dust  arose  from  time  to  time  obscuring  the 
horizon.  But  in  winter  or  spring,  when  the  setting  sun  throws 
its  jiurplc  light  over  the  cit}^  and  the  fretted  cathedral,  embow- 
ered in  green  and  golden  orange  groves  and  surrounded  by 
verdant  fields,  I  know  nothing  in  Europe  to  surpass  the  beauty 
of  the  pros])ect.  It  is  the  Xvwq  ganlen  of  the  Hesperides,  whose 
golden  apjdes  might  worthily  employ  the  labors  of  a  demi-god. 
The  walk  back  may  be  diversified  by  keeping  along  the  river 
bank  nearh'  as  far  as  the  Triana  and  crossing  over  in  a  skiff  to 
Las  Lelicias.  A  curling  wreath  of  smoke  from  the  ]iorcelain 
manufactory  of  Pickman  &  Co.,  was  at  i^resent  rather  an  incon- 
gruous element  in  the  picture,  but  the  great  success  of  this  ex- 
])eriment,  in  furnishing  Si)ain  with  home  manufactures,  may 
Justify  in  some  measure  the  outrage  done  to  the  landscape. 

Fartlier  to  the  north-west,  upon  the  sanic  rangcof  hills,  is  the 
town  of  C'astilleja  do  la  Cuesta,  which  also  has  a  fine  view,  but 
is  more  interesting  to  Americans  as  the  residence  and  death 
place  of  Fernan  Cortcz,  whose  house  is  pointed  out.  Beyond 
this  there  is  nothing  to  attract  one  to  Castilleja,  though  the 
ride  is  a  pleasant  one.  Some  distance  to  the  right  in  the  plain 
are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Italica,  itself  built  upon 


230  ^^I•AI^   AMI  TiiK  si'amakh.s. 

the  ruins  (if  a  ^till  more  uncicnl  Iberian  or  i'unic  city  by  Scipio, 
as  a  retreat  for  his  veterans.  Celebrity  is  conferred  upon  it  by 
the  sini^ular  felieily  of  baviui^  ifiveii  birth  to  throe  of  ti)o  great- 
est and  best  of  the  JJonian  emperors — Trajan,  llailriau  and 
Theodosius. 

Sola  uovuiu  Liilii."!  vcctigal  nil>uriii  rclms 
Coutiilit  Aiigui-tos. 

As  if  satisfied  with  ba\  in-;  conferred  so  great  a  boon  upon  the 
workl  Italica  ceased  to  exist,  and  little  is  left  of  its  former 
/grandeur  excejtt  the  ruins  of  tlie  amj)hitheatre,  which  has  serv- 
ed as  a  quarry  to  (Joths,  Moors  and  Spaniards.  It  resembles 
others  in  Italy  and  France.  The  crumblini;  seats  and  subterra- 
nean dens  for  the  wild  beasts  are  toleral)ly  distinct,  but  by  its 
size  alone  would  you  be  able  to  form  some  idea  of  the  impor- 
tance of  the  city.  That  the  decline  of  Italica  was  owing  to  the 
founding  of  Seville  is  scarcely  credible,  as  the  latter  existed  in 
the  time  of  the  PhaMiicians,  and  the  Koman  a(pieduct  shows  it 
to  have  been  a  ]»laco  of  note  before  Italica  had  lost  its  yire-emi- 
ncnce.  Sevilk'.  h(»wevi,'r,  was  a  favorite  of  Ca?sar  and  of  nature 
too,  fur  a  ca])ricious  change  of  course  in  the  (Juadalquivir  is  said 
to  have  accomplislied  the  tinal  ruin  of  its  rival.  The  traveller 
is  often  strucU  witii  tlir  uttci-  disa]»ii<.'arance  of  S|tauish  cities, 
which  are  kn(^wn  to  have  l>een  tlourishing  centres  of  influence 
since  the  jieriod  of  authentic  modern  history.  The  famous 
cities  of  Azzahra,  of  Azzahira,  of  Calatrava,  the  heailiiuartors 
of  the  commandcry  of  tiiat  name,  of  Alareos,  of  Bilbilis,  have 
vanished  without  leaving  one  stone  uj)on  another  to  mark  the 
site  of  their  existence,  and  were  it  not  for  the  soliil  l?t)mau 
relics,  Italica  WJ>uld  lie  known  ou]y  by  tradition.  A  few  olives 
and  the  cool  fountain  are  the  only  evidences  of  life.  In  its 
place  has  sj)rung  up  the  Sj)anisii  village  of  Santi  Ponce,  distin- 
guished for  its  fairs,  the  delight  of  majos  and  majas,  one  of 
which  was  memorabl}'  honored  by  the  presence  in  full  maja 
costume  of  the  future  Kmi)ress  of  the  French,  who  in  her  youth 
used  to  do  a  great  many  things  that  might  as  well  have  been 
left  undone. 

The  histor}'  of  Don  Alonso  Perez  de  (Juzman  and  tlie  siege 
of  Taril'a  is  familiar  to  readers  of  Sjuinish  history.  The  Ho- 
Mian  courage  and  Ujrtitudc  with  which  he  sacriticiMl  his  son 
rathei-  than  surrender  that  key  of  the  kingdom  to  its  enemies, 
received  their  reward  in  the  heroic,  romantic  fame  which  has 


ALCALA    DE    (iUADAlRA. SPANISH    BREAD.  231 

thrown  a  lialo  aroniul  him,  and  elevated  his  famil}'  to  a  distinc- 
tion among  the  princes  of  the  earth  which  few  liave  attained. 
Scarcely  a  chapter  in  the  history  of  his  countrj^  can  be  written 
without  mentionin«i;  some  one  of  this  illustrious  house.  Nor 
are  its  glories  confined  to  Spain.  The  neighboring  kingdom  of 
Portugal  owes  a  second  birth  to  one  of  its  fair  scions.  At 
present,  the  great  Dukedom  of  Medina  Sidonia,  with  all  its 
immense  ])Ossessions,  are  merged  by  marriage  into  another 
family- ;  but  soon  three  of  the  thrones  of  Europe  Avill  be  occu- 
pied by  the  descendants  of  three  of  its  beautiful  daughters, — 
Leonora,  Luisa  and  Eugenia, — who  felicitously  appeared  upon 
the  stage  at  a  change  of  dynasty  in  ever}'  respective  instance, 
and  added  no  little  to  the  stability  of  the  Governments  in 
Avhich  two  of  them  were  required  to  participate.  Tlie  old  hero, 
with  a  proper  regard  for  the  welfare  of  his  soul  in  the  next 
world,  founded,  near  these  ruins,  the  convent  of  San  Isidro  del 
Campo.  in  which  the  bodies  of  himself  and  his  wife  lie  interred. 
A  large  portion  of  the  building  has  been  destroj'ed  by  the 
ravages  of  war,  but  enough  remains  to  shelter  the  last  resting 
place  of  the  great  founder,  and  to  recall  to  the  wayfai'cr  one  of 
the  most  striking  and  chivalrous  incidents  in  history. 

On  the  o])posite  side  of  Seville,  a  couple  of  hours'  ride 
toward  Carmona,  is  the  city  of  Alcala  de  Guadaira  or  de  los 
Panaderos  (the  Bakers),  a  most  picturesque  spot,  with  a  fine 
old  castle  overhangin.g  the  stream.  Leaving  Seville  in  the 
afternoon,  the  entry  into  this  cool  valley  is  delicious,  and  an 
artist  would  never  become  weary  of  its  romantic  scenes.  The 
former  I'oad  to  Cordova  passed  through  it;  but  now  an  especial 
visit  is  necessary,  which  well  repays  the  trouble.  Owing  to 
some  peculiarity  in  the  water,  probabl}',. the  bi'ead  made  here 
is  considei'cd  the  best  in  Spain,  and  is  carried  into  Seville  early 
in  the  morning.  Those  who  have  eaten  it  any  length  of  time 
will  not  dissent  from  the  general  opinion.  With  the  exception 
of  that  from  the  Banat  of  Temeswar,  there  is  no  flour  in  Eu- 
rope to  compare  with  the  Spanish;  and  I  have  seen  it  stated 
somewhere,  that  Ilarouu  al  Kashid  would  eat  no  other.  The 
bread  is  ditferently  made  from  that  of  Paris,  being  much  more 
compact  and  Avhiter,  and,  at  first,  has  not  the  taste  which  is  so 
pleasant  in  the  latter,  but  it  grows  upon  acquaintance,  and  is 
exceedingly  wholesome.  A  loaf,  with  a  cup  of  S])anish  choco- 
late, is  a  breakfast   for  a  king.      The  ancient  name  of  Alcala 


232  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPAMAnDS. 

was  nionippe,  said  to  siijnify  "the  City  of  Springs,"  which 
abound,  and  wlioso  lini])id  waters  wore  carried  to  Seville  by  the 
aqueduct  Los  Cailcts  de  Carincuia,  a  Koiuan  work,  repaired  by 
the  Moors.  Tlie  ])resent  name  signifies  "  the  Castle  oC  the  river 
Aira,"  and  both  are  ajtpropriate. 

In  some  respects,  the  early  histoiy  of  Spain  is  less  satislae- 
torv  than  that  of  any  other  country-  in  Eur<»pe.  Possessing  no 
written  language  that  has  survive<l  to  our  da}-,  at  least  none 
that  is  intelligible,  it  must  be  sought,  for  the  most  part,  in  the 
records  of  the  (Jreeks  and  Komans,  aided  by  a  few  disjointed 
fragments  of  Punic,  and  tlu'  scanty  relics  of  the  ])revious  age, 
still  existing  in  the  names  of  localities.  These  throw  glimpses  of 
light  bade  to  a  jteriod  lar  anterior  to  the  col<;nization  of  other 
Euroj)can  countries,  Itut  so  faint  as  to  stimulate  rather  than 
satisfy  curiosity.  Critics  have  struggled  to  trace  a  connection 
with  various  tribes  on  the  i)lateau  of  Central  Asia — by  a  com- 
parison of  customs  and  habits,  as  described  by  Strabo — with 
how  little  success  every  one  must  acknowledge  who  lias  inves- 
tigated the  subject.  Among  the  different  ])roblenis,  none  offer 
more  than  the  origin  of  the  names  of  Seville,  Andalusia  and 
Spain.  At  the  same  tinie,  there  arc  few  more  attractive  sub- 
jects of  speculation ;  for,  under  the  guise  of  a  mere  philological 
disjiute,  they  carry  us  back  into  the  very  recesses  of  antiquity. 
The  only  literature  of  the  Western  World,  <>\\  at  all  events,  the 
only  writings  which  have  survived  to  us.  with  a  few  insignifi- 
cant exceptions,  are  the  Ilebrew,  the  (Ircck,  tin-  Latin,  and  to 
them  m;iy  be  added  tlie  Arabic,  every  one  of  which  has  l>een 
spoken  in  Spain,  giving  different  names  for  the  same  locality, 
sometimes  differing  in  signification,  at  othei-s  merely  offering  a 
confusion  of  sound.  Of  the  latter,  the  derivation  of  the  Span- 
ish word  "  .s/cr/v/,"  a  mountain  chain,  is  a  fair  example,  lioth 
etymology  and  tlii'  ajipcarance  of  the  mountains  themselves, 
would  justify  the  derivation  Ci-oin  (he  Latin  "  i<ci'rii,"  a  saw, 
to  be  f(Mind  in  the  old  Italian  and  I'omance,  as  the  Mon- 
serrat  (i.e.,  .Mons  Serratus)  ol' Catalonia.  Othei-  philologists, 
among  Ihcm,  (he  learned  (Jyangos,  dci-ive  it,  with  e(pial  jdausi- 
bilit}',  tVoiii  llie  Arabic  "  Sehra,"  an  uncultivated  region,  allied 
to  Sahara,  as  the  Sierra  Morena  of  Anilalusia,  which  was  called 
by  the  Romans,  not  "Serra,"  Imt  "Mons"  Mai-ianus.  I  ven- 
ture to  prefer  the  former;  l>u(,  among  such  doctors,  who 
shall  decide":'  Perhaps  both  languages  have  been  correctly 
appealed  to. 


DERIVATION    OF    TIIK    WORD.  233 

First,  with  rcu-ard  to  ^Spnin  itself.  Tho  Gvoek  word  was 
Hesperia,  tlic  land  of  the  Eveiiini;-  Star;  the  Latin,  Ilispania, 
whence,  evidently,  the  modern  name.  Tlic  word  '-Iberia"  was 
probably — as  savans  are  said  to  have  discovered  by  the  aid  of 
investi-^ation  into  the  lan<;-nage  of  people  of  whom  the  (Jreeks 
were  ii;-norant — a  simple  corruption  from  Aber  or  Elter,  mean- 
ing "a  river"  in  the  dialect  of  one  of  the  tides  of  po^^ulation 
which  swept  over  Europe  in  its  earliest  ai^es,  leavinc;  this  root 
everywhere.  By  the  (Jreeks,  it  was  ignorant!)'  extended  to 
tlie  country  itself  AVhat  was  the  aboriginal  designation  of 
tho  peninsula,  or  whether  it  had  one  designation,  is  utterly 
unknown.  Wilhelm  von  Humboldt  and  others  iiave  advanced 
theories,  and  sustained  them,  with  an  immensity  of  erudition; 
but  the  world  is  far  from  being  convince<l.  J[un\boldt's  theory 
is,  that  the  Basques  were  the  original  inhabitants,  which  posi- 
tion he  fortifies  by  the  names  of  places  scattered  over  the 
peninsula  that  can  be  traced  to  no  other  language  but  the 
Basque.  ]Ie  then  maintains  that  the  Basques  were  the  Iberi- 
ans. Iiut  the}-  certainly  do  not  so  call  llieinselves  in  their  own 
tongue.  Xor  can  the  words  Iberia  and  Iberians  be  traced 
anterior  to  Seylax.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Celtic  scholars 
thinlc  tliat  tliey  find  equally  as  conclusive  evidence  of  Gallic 
predominance  in  such  words  as  Asturia — as-thur;  Artal)or — 
ar-ot-aber;  Celtiltei* — Celt-abor;  Celtiaca — Celt-ac'h.  And  na- 
tional pride,  too,  enters  into  tlie  investigation,  inasmuch  as 
Ca;sar  saj'S  that  the  Gauls  were  called  Celts  in  their  own 
tongue,  and  the  H'rcnch  consider  themselves  the  embodificatfon 
of  the  race,  of  which  the}'  form  a  part,  so  that  each  succeeding 
critic  leads  us  further  from  a  harmonious  conclusion.  But  wo 
do  know  that  the  Phcenicians  had  settlements,  or,  at  least,  com- 
merce with  S])ain  before  the  da^'s  of  the  Greeks  and  l»omans, 
as  is  proved  by  the  Old  Testament  and  by  the  Greek  navigators 
themselves;  and  the  interesting  column  described  b}'  Procopius, 
if  not  a  forgery,  which  there  is  no  good  reason  for  su])posing, 
shows  that  one  emigration  took  ])lace  in  consequence  of  the 
invasion  of  "the  r(;bber,"  Joshua,  the  son  of  Nave  (Xun).  The 
traditions  of  the  Spanish  Jews,  a<lopted,  in  part,  by  the  native 
historians,  point  likewise  to  an  early  exochis  from  the  same 
quarter,  winch  coidd  only  have  been  accomjjlishe'l  by  the 
southern  route.  To  the  Kast,  then,  must  we  tui'n,  and  imagi- 
nation lias  run   riot  Avith  fabulous  kings — Ilispanus,  Ilispalis, 


234  SPAIN    AM»    THK    M'AMAUiKS. 

ami  a  Iohjl;  list,  \vhoso  roii^ns  have  Itoon  illiistrali-d  l»y  the 
j^lowiiiij  c'l()(iueiK-o  of  Mariana.  Ac-cordiiiii;  to  tliose  historians, 
llispania  comes  lron\  llispanus.  AUlrcte  hil)ors  to  derive  it 
from  the  ^od  Pan,  jjrerixinj^  first  an  S,  which  was  not  unusual 
in  Latin.  an<l  then  preHxinji;  an  initial  vowel,  because,  forsooth, 
the  Latin,  liUe  the  modern  S|)anisli  and  Italian,  ahhors  an  8 
impure.  Why.  tluii.  ilid  they  i)reH.\  it?  The  true  ex|»lana- 
tion  i.s  hoth  simjder  and  more  natural.  The  Phtenieian  W(»rd 
SjKJii,  *^>v  Stijj/tdii,  is  said  by  the  learned  io  signify  a  "rabbit," 
and  also  "secret,"  "hidden."  Now,  the  Roman  hi>lorians 
almost  always  speak  of  the  country  under  the  name  of  llis- 
]>ania.  not  Iberia,  and  their  medals  and  coins,  of  which  two  arc 
given  liy  Florez,  struck  under  the  Emperor  Hadrian — a  Span- 
iard himself — represent  Spain  under  the  figure  of  a  woman, 
with  a  rabbit  at  her  feet,  and  the  countr3'  was,  moreovei-.  fre- 
quently designated  "cuniculosa."  The  peninsula  was  famous 
in  ancient  times  for  its  abounding  iu  these  creatures.  They 
formed  a  large  item  of  export  to  Eome,  and  modern  travellers, 
including  Glil  Bias,  can  vouch  that  {\\c  animal,  or  his  feline 
rej)resentative,  is  still  a  favorite  ilish  in  the  Spanish  cuisine. 
In  this  instance,  therefore,  the  critical  acumen  of  investigators 
seems  to  have  attained  (piite  a  satisfactory  conclusion. 

But  the  IMiaMiicians  found  the  ct)untiy'  occupied,  and  who 
were  these  occuj)ants  J*  The  literaiy  world  seems  Lo  have 
settled  into  the  belief  that  Europe  was  peopled  b}'  successive 
emigi'ations  from  Asia,  ])assing  up  the  valley  of  the  Danube 
and  descending  into  the  peninsulas,  ami  that  these  emigi-ai  ions 
sprang  from  one  source,  which  we  call  ('aucasian.  It  has, 
however,  been  suggested,  with  much  show  of  reason,  that  the 
aboriginal  iiopulalion  of  the  south-west,  though  Caticasian, 
entered  Europe  across  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  afier  making 
the  southern  circuit  of  the  Mediterranean.  Those  straits  were 
once  niuch  narrowei'  than  now;  even  the  rate  of  their  widening 
has  been  ascertained  iiy  a  collocation  of  historical  statements; 
an<l  the  tradition  of  their  having  been  opened,  at  some  remote 
pei-iod,  by  a  god,  fanciful  though  it  l>e  in  its  ])articnlars,  is  evi- 
dence of  the  general  truth  of  their  having  once  lieen  closed. 
After  this  followed,  periiaps,  an  invasion  from  the  north — the 
Celts  or  Iberians,  if  there  were  any  such.  Tlicii  came  the 
Phcenicians  and  Carthaginians  from  the  south.  Then  again 
the  llomans  and  Goths  from  the  north.     Then  the  Arabs  from 


DERIVATION    OF    ''  ANDALUSIA."  235 

the  south,  until  the  Spaninrds  and  Portuguese  theuisolves  be- 
came conquering  nations,  and  extended  their  rule  over  Amei'- 
ica  and  a  considerable  portion  of  Africa,  Europe  and  Asia. 
The  Peninsula  Avas  thus  the  common  meeting  place  or  bat- 
tle Held  of  rival  immigrations;  all,  perhaps,  braiulies  oi'  one 
great  race,  and  finding  a  common  origin  in  Asia.  From  which 
of  these  eniigi-ations  did  the  "doctissimi"  Andalusians  inherit 
their  "grainaliea  et  antiquatatis  nioiiuinenta  conseripta  ae  pw- 
mata  et  metris  inelusas  leges  a  sex  inillibus  annorumy"  From 
the  North  ?  No  northern  nation  has  ever  possessed  such.  Let- 
ters ami  learning  were  transmitted  from  the  East  to  the  Asiatic 
Greeks.  By  ihem,  in  turn,  to  Greece  proper,  anil  thence  dif- 
fused over  the  northern  tribes  of  Europe  as  they  successively 
came  within  the  sphere  of  its  influence.  From  the  Basques? 
Who  the}'  are,  what  they  are,  and  whence  they  came,  no  one 
can  sa}',  but  not  a  single  ancient  author  mentions  them  other- 
wise than  in  the  rudest  state  of  semi-l»arbarism,  nor  have  Ihc}- 
any  written  records.  Did  the  Andalusians  invent  and  bring 
forth  a  local  civilization,  which  Avas  doomed  to  perish  fi-om  the 
earth  without  influence  upon,  or  connection  with,  the  general 
progress  of  humanity?  Such  was,  ap])arently,  the  case  in 
Peru;  but  the  received  tra<iition  of  the  Jueas  derived  their 
laws  and  leai-ning  from  an  external  source,  and  this  seems  to 
be  universally  true.  The  wildest  fable  never  imagined  an 
autochthonous  civilization;  the  divine  tire  has  always  been 
])rocured  from  heaven  either  by  gift  or  by  stealth.  If,  there- 
foi'c,  we  pursue  the  analogies  of  histor}',  guided  by  the  few,  the 
very  few  landmarks  still  existing,  it  would  seem  that  Spain 
was  inhabited  by  a  race  anterior  to  the  Phccnicians,  Celts  and 
Iberians,  a  race  somewhat  enlightened,  entering  by  the  south 
and,  sui:>scquently,  yielding  to  the  attacks  of  northern  barba- 
rians— more  than  this,  no  one  can  venture  with  any  confldence 
to  assert. 

The  derivation  of  "  Andalusia,"  though  by  no  means  so  remote, 
oflfers  likewise  great  philological  and  historical  ditflculties.  It 
is  indisputabi}'  derived  by  us  immediately  from  the  Arabic,  in 
which  it  was  used  to  signify  the  whole  of  Spain,  or  at  least  the 
Mohammedan  portion  of  it,  and  passed  over  to  the  Chi'istians, 
with  the  latter  signification,  at  a  time  wlien  the  Moorish  pos- 
session did  not  extend  beyond  tiie  Sierra  Morena.  Casiri,  and 
his  opinion  is  adopted  by  the   Padre  Florez,  traces  it  to  the 


236  SPAIN     AND    TIIF.    SPANIAnHS. 

AraMc  Ilandalos,  equivalent,  as  they  say.  to  the  (Jreek  word 
Jlesperia  ;  and  the  (rcographus  Nubiensis,  whonj  Florez  quotes, 
pronounces  it  the  same  eountry  that  was  styled  hy  the  (rreeka 
liisjiania.  But  wh}'  should  the  Arabs  have  omitted  the  initial 
II ha  in  a  word  of  their  own  language,  secmint^  to  delight  in 
these  ifiitlural  sounds?  On  the  other  hand,  Al  ^faUari  quotes 
the  works  of  Arabic  authors,  now  lost,  who  derive  it  from  a 
race  of  barbarians  that  settled  there.  Such  is  the  ojiinion,  too, 
of  (iyangos,  and  to  this  must  be  added  tiic  fact  that  the  Spanish 
chroniclers  frequently'  translate  it  "  Vandalusia,"  and  derive  it 
from  the  Vandals.  The  Arabs  having  no  V,  might  well  sub- 
stitute in  its  place  the  sim])le  breathing.  lJut,i"e]»ly  the  former, 
the  \'andMls  remained  too  short  a  lime  in  Andalusia  to  impress 
their  name  ui)on  the  country,  an<l  in  tact  never  did.  which  is 
true.  The  Arabs,  however,  meeting  the  remnants  of  tliose  who 
ba<l  ci-dssed  from  S]);iin  to  Africa,  and  being,  moreover,  very 
incurious  about  such  things  in  the  <;utset  of  tlieir  career,  might 
reasonal)ly  suppose  that  the  country  whence  the  Vandals  or 
Van(lalocii  last  came  was  Vamlalia  or  \'aiidalnsia,  or,  in  their 
tongue,  Andalus.  Similar  mistakes  are  of  frequent  occunvnce 
in  the  history  of  (tther  countries,  particularly  in  our  own,  as 
exemplifit'd  by  the  Indian  names.  As  cumulative  proof  it  may 
be  stated  that  the}'  call  Western  Mauritania,  not  llandalus, 
but  Al  Magreb,  the  i-eai  wortl,  which  sometimes  is  aiq)lied  to 
the  whole  west,  including  Andalus. 

The  name  of  Seville  can  be  easily  traced  thi'ough  the  Isiibiliah 
of  the  Moors  to  the  Ilispalis  of  the  liomans,  for  which  all  sorts 
of  fanciful  derivations  were  given,  among  them  that  of  "  apalis" 
of  San  Isidro,  whereas  not  only  is  Seville  not  built  upon  ])iles, 
but  it  would  requii'i'  no  inconsiderable  force  to  tli'ive  one  into  its 
firm  soil,  though  it  has  been  sul)ject  to  inundation.  The  Plueni- 
cians  again  afford  the  key  to  this  riddle,  offei-ing.  as  they  say, 
the  word  Spcld  or  Scphiia — a  j)lain — which  suits  the  situation 
of  Seville  exactly.  Indeed,  most  of  the  riparian  and  maritime 
cities  lying  to  the  south  and  east  were  founded  by,  and  derived 
their  names  from  the  Plnenicians.  Tiaildir.  the  Hoiiian  (Jades, 
and  modei-n  Cadiz,  for  instance,  is  said  to  signify,  in  Punic, 
"  enchjsed,"  or  as  others  sa^'  "  separate<l,"  being  iipon  an  island. 
Moreover,  the  Book  of  Joshua  mentions  a  King  of  Gedei-in  the 
"  old  country."  Carthagcna,  Malaga,  Cartheia  have  the  same 
origin.     It  is  a  compliment  to  the  discernment  of  these  naviga- 


DERIVATION    OF    "  SEVILLE."  237 

tors,  that  the  points  selected  hy  tliein  sliouhl  still  he  the  com- 
mercial outlets  of  Spain. 

All  this  will  perha]>s  api)ear  very  incongruous  in  a  hook  of 
travels,  hut  it  shows  that  Spanish  intellect  has  heen  by  no 
means  so  profoundl}-  asleep  as  has  been  generally  supposed  by 
us,  since  it  is  not  a  mere  dispute  about  words,  hut  an  eifort  to 
search  out  the  earl}-  liistory  of  tlieir  country,  which  lies  con- 
cealed in  those  words. 

Over  tlio  gate  of  Jerez,  leading  to  the  Paseo,  is  the  following 
inscription  : 

Hercules  me  edifico, 
Julio  Cesar  me  cerco, 

Dc  rauros  y  torres  siltas  ; 
El  rey  Santo  me  gano 
Con  Garci  Perez  dc  Vargas. 

According  to  which,  Hercules  was  tlie  founder  of  Seville,  and 
such  is  the  unanimous  assertion  of  tlie  old  Spanish  historians. 
Foreigners  are  dis])osed  to  be  mirthful  over  the  matter,  and 
pronounce  Hercules  a  myth.  If  by  Hercules  is  meant  any 
one  individual,  who  performed  all  the  wonderful  feats  men- 
tioned in  the  MA'thology,  the  assertion  is  of  course  correct.  But 
that  ]Iercules  was  original!}'  a  Phoenician  or  Egyptian  hero, 
and  that  there  were  man}'  such,  is  equally  true.  In  truth  every 
great  jiioneer  was  a  sort  of  Hercules,  and  their  several  deeds, 
magnified  by  the  credulity  of  a  primitive  age,  were  consolidated 
and  contributed  to  swell  the  reputation  of  the  demigod.  Had 
it  been  the  fortune  of  J)aniel  Boone  to  flourish  when  the  art  of 
writing  was  unknown,  and  the  colonization  of  wild  regions  a 
thing  of  slow  progi'ess,  the  Kentucky  bear  would  have  stood 
by  the  side  of  the  Nemean  lion  in  the  Avonder  of  jjosterity.  That 
the  (or  a)  Plucnician  Hercules  therefore  founded  Seville  may  or 
ma}'  not  be  a  fact,  but  there  is  nothing  about  the  assertion 
impossible  or  improbable.  Most  of  the  legends  of  marvellous 
antiquit}'',  which  are  spread  through  the  localities  of  modern 
Euro]>c.  arose  in  the  middle  ages,  liut  these  traditions  of  Anda- 
lusia were  current  at  a  [leriod  long  anterior,  when  tradition 
was  history,  and  it  was  supposed,  even  in  the  days  of  J'ome,  as 
appears  from  a  jirevious  quotation,  to  have  laws  dating  back 
six  thousand  years. 

Whoever  founded  Seville  is  entitled  to  the  thanks  of  subse- 
quent ages,  for  at  all  times  and  under  all  people  it  has  Iteen  a 
favorite  residence.     Caesar  distinguished  it  greatly  and  bestow- 


23K  SPAIN    AMI    TirK    SPAMARPS. 

cd  upon  it  liin  name — .lulia  Roinula — and  made  such  improve- 
ments as  to  be  considered  its  second  founder.  Hoinu  the  only 
one  of  the  <rreat  l^)man  cities  upon  the  Athmtic  slope,  it  was 
(•ilclir:itf.|  for  a  phenomenon  in  nature  unusual  to  them. 

Fulfil  prcoipuis  Parna^ia  Ca^itulo  sifrnis, 

K(  colcliro  Oooano  nl<]tio  nllcrniii  aostiluiK  llispiil. 

To  the  Vandals  it  was  a  cajiital,  and  likewise  under  the  first 
Moorish  conquerors.  Its  Bishop,  Oi>pa8.  a  relative  of  AVittiza, 
plavi'd  a  i)rominent  part  in  the  treacluMy  which  resulted  in  the 
battle  of  (iiKKJalete  ;  and  the  wife  of  the  last  (Jolhic  kin^  se- 
cured tlie  clenioMcy  of  the  conqueror  by  sacrificing  her  widow's 
Weeds  to  the  son  of  the  caliph's  lieutenant.  The  lieni  Omevah 
established  the  seat  of  their  (Jovernment  at  Cordova.  Upon  the 
downfall  of  this  dynasty  Seville  fell  to  the  Beni  Abbad.  who 
were  c*»mpared  to  the  Abassi<les  of  Ba<;dad,  for  their  «xi  lu  r- 
osity,  virtues  and  misfortunes.  The  fate  of  the  last  ot  ihc 
line — Al  Mutadcd — illustrates  the  dogma  of  the  prophet,  that 
no  one  can  escape  the  destinj'  graven  upon  the  eternal  tablets. 
The  Christian  power  having  increased  in  proporti<»n  to  the 
decline  of  the  Mohammedan,  he  found  himself  under  the  neces- 
sit}'  of  seeking  aid  f'*om  abroad,  and  for  that  })urpose  turned 
his  eyes  toward  Yusef  beim  Taxfin,  the  great  leader  of  the 
Almoravides.  Jlis  l»i'other  kings  warne<l  him  against  tlie  dan- 
ger of  seeking  an  alliance  with  so  jxiwi-rful  a  iViend.  quoting 
the  ])ithy  proverb,  "a  kingdom  without  luii->  and  one  long 
sword  do  not  find  I'oom  in  the  same  scabbaixl ;"  to  which  he 
rejilied  with  equal  point,  "  better  be  a  driver  of  camels  than  a 
di'ivei-  of  pigs;"  that  is,  better  Ik'  :i  servant  of  the  .Mohamme- 
«lan  and  guard  his  camels,  than  of  the  Chi'isliiin  with  his 
unclean  swine.  Yusef  came,  and  the  battle  of  Zalaka,  in  which 
the  tSevillian  king  behaved  as  became  a  gallant  soldier,  i-iluiked 
the  pride  and  insolence  of  the  infidt  I.  lU'fore  the  buttle,  Al- 
fonso wrote  a  long  letter  to  Vwsef  in  a  grandilo([uont  Style, 
boasting  of  his  resources  and  depreciating  his  adversary.  Abu 
Ik'kr,  the  secretary,  composed  a  similar  reply.  "It  is  too 
long,"  said  the  old  warrior;  '*  bring  me  Alfonso's  letter,"  and 
he  wrote  thereon  these  simjjle  words,  "he  who  lives  will  see." 
Well  might  the  Christian  king  tremble  at  its  brevity.  The 
war  being  over,  Al  Mutaded  invited  his  guest  to  .Seville.  When 
the  beautiful  city,  with  its  gardens  and  palaces,  and  its  spacious 
river,  covered  with  the  commerce  of  Africa  and  the  Hast,  burst 
M]ton   the  sight  of  the  Almoravide,  his   heart  was  filled  with 


DISCOVERY    OF    AMERICA.  230 

ciivy  and  treachery.  A  few  months  more,  and  Al  ]\rutadcd 
implored  tlie  aid  of  tlic  Christian  ai:;ainst  his  former  friend,  hut 
in  vain.  Tlie  latter  part  of  his  days  were  spent  in  easy  cap- 
tivity in  Africa,  afar  from  the  perfumed  hanks  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir. Of  Al  ]\Iutade<l's  gallantr}-,  a  curious  instance  is  nar- 
rated. One  of  his  wives  happening  to  see  some  countrywomen 
up  to  their  ancles  in  mud  selling  milk,  exclaimed,  with  the 
natural  discontentedness  of  her  sex,  "  I  wish  T  could  do  as 
these  women  are  doing."  Whereupon  Al  Mutaded  ordered  the 
palace  floor  to  be  covered  with  a  compound  of  musk  and  such 
like  substances,  mixed  together  with  rose  Avater,  so  that  the 
Sidtana  and  her  maids  might  paddle  about  to  their  content. 
His  courage  and  literary  taste  were  equal  to  his  gallantrj^j  and, 
notwithstanding  some  serious  defects,  Al  Mutaded  may  rank 
among  the  greater  of  the  Mohammedan  Emirs. 

Tiie  Almoravides  were  succeeded  by  the  Almohades.  At 
length,  the  edge  of  the  sAvord  Avas  turned  to  the  destroyer; 
and  St.  Ferdinand,  on  the  27th  day  of  ^November,  1248,  after  a 
fifteen  montlis'  siege,  planted  the  banner  of  Castile  upon  the 
Giralda.  Mohammed,  surnamed  Al  Hamra  or  "the  Red,"  the 
founder  of  the  kingdom  of  Granada  and  of  its  famous  castle, 
who  in  his  qualit}'  of  vassal  to  tile  Christian  king,  had  borne  a 
prominent  part  in  its  capture,  returned  to  his  mountain  home, 
saddened  by  his  success  against  the  last  remnant  but  one  of  the 
great  Moorish  empire  of  the  West. 

From  that  time  until  the  conquest  of  Granada,  Seville  con- 
tinued to  be  the  principal  residence  of  the  Spanish  monarchs 
while  engaged  in  the  final  contest.  The  extinction  of  Moham- 
medanism  was  simultaneous  Avith  another  event,  Avhich  raised 
Seville  to  the  summit  of  Avealth  and  distinction  —  the  disco\*ery 
of  America.  Strange  that  Columbus,  after  being  repulsed  from 
eveiy  other  maritime  court  in  Europe,  should  have  laid  the 
fruits  of  his  inspiration  at  the  feet  of  Spain,  as  if  in  fulfilment 
of  the  prophecy  of  Seneca,  himself  an  Andalusian,  avIio,  in  the 
Medea,  sang,  centuries  before  — 

Vcnicnt  annis  saecnla  seris 
Quibu8  Occanus  vincula  vcrum 
Laxet,  et  ingens  pat€at  f^-llu?, 
Ti'lhy!><iuc  noviis  dctcpat  orbe?, 
Ncc  sit  fcrrii?  ultima  Thnle. 

For  many  generations  Seville  enjoj'ed  a  monopoly  of  the 
American  trade.  Hence  sailed  tRe  fleets  which  transported  to 
the  simple  natives  of  the  New  World  the  wonders  of  Europe, 


240  8PAIN  Axn  Tin:  Spaniards. 

and  hillu-r  thev  nturncMl  fn-iijlited  with  tlio  silver  and  tfoUlon 
sinews  wliieh  sustained  the  ini<>;lity  power  ofCliarles  anvl  IMiilip, 
and  enabled  them  to  keep  so  hir<j;e  a  portion  of  Europe  untler 
their  influence.  That  Seville  should  have  been  a  great  centre 
of  retineinent  and  luxury  is  natural.  Its  merchants  became 
princes,  and  its  noble  houses,  its  (Juzmans  and  Ponces  de  Leon 
ranked  with  the  kinirs  of  the  earths.  At  the  same  time,  the 
facility  of  accjuiring  competence  and  position  infused  a  new 
spirit  into  the  lower  classes,  and  tenipered  the  prejtonderance 
of  hereditary  power.  Great  as  Seville  was,  the  rejiorts  ol  its 
magnificence,  and  especially  of  its  manufacturing  devehtpmont, 
were  much  exaggerated.  Capinany  has  reduced  them  within 
proi)er  tlimensions.  lie  has  iahored  to  show  that  Spain  never 
was  a  great  iiianulhcturiiig  or  coimnercial  nation,  ami  tl\at  the 
trade  of  Seville  was,  to  a  c(»nsideralile  extent,  in  the  hamls  of* 
foreiirners.  lie  certainl}'  has  not  been  led  astray  by  natiunal 
vaiii(\";  and  those  who  follow  in  ids  footsteps  have  improved 
upon  iiim  to  such  a  degree  as  to  denj'  the  country  any  indus- 
trial develoi»ment  whatever.  It  is  true  anil  natural  that  the 
peaceful  arts  should  not  have  received  extraordinary  attention 
where  the  sound  of  the  bugle  was  seldom  hushed  upon  the 
boi'der,  and  tlie  tramp  of  the  war  horse  was  sweeter  music 
than  the  hum  ol"  the  spinning  wiieel.  Jhit  there  was  also  an 
industrial  class.  Formerly  in  Jiurgos  one  ('ofnulia  alone  could 
not  contain  l»y  law  less  than  Iburteen  thousand  members,  a 
number  greater  than  the  whole  poiniiation  of  the  city  after  its 
decline.  We  all  have  read,  too,  how,  in  the  times  of  Edward  VI 
and  Elizabeth,  the  present  ol'a  jiair  of  silk  stockings  out  of  Spain 
was  suflicient  to  set  the  whole  circle  of  court  ladies  into  a  flutter 
of  envious  excitement, Just  as, during  the  reign  of  their  ancestors, 
the  (laiiv  renewal  oflVesh  straw  ujion  the  tloor  of  a  great  noble- 
man's mansion  was  considered  a  mark  of  extraordinary  bixury. 
And  we  know  that  every  article  of  manufacturing  skill  used  in 
England,  tV(nn  jxjwder  to  looking-glasses,  was  imported  from 
Franei',  Italy  or  Spain.  In  fact,  Si)ain  was  to  Europe  of 
the  sixteenth  centur\-  what  l-'i'ance  is  now,  the  centre  of  fashion 
and  elegance.  The  nanus  of  many  <>f  (he  streets,  such  as  Calle 
de  los  Francos  and  de  (lenova,  would  demonstrate  the  presence 
of  a  large  foreign  po])ulation.  But  such  is  always  the  case.  A 
very  large  proportion  of  the  jjopulalion  both  of  New  Orleans 
and  New  Y(U"k  were  born  ^ut  of  the  limits  of  the  United 
States,  yet  they  are,  none  the  less,  great  American  cities. 


PROSPERITY  OF  SKVILLE.  241 

The  effect  of  the  discovery  of  America  upon  Seville  was 
similar  to  that  of  the  discovery  of  the  California  mines  upon 
San  Francisco.  Crowds  from  every  nation  eagerly  rushed  to 
participate  in  the  golden  -wealth,  and  in  (heir  train  came  the 
arts  of  more  industrious  races.  Considerahle  part  of  this  influx 
halted  at  Seville,  for  the  regulations  were  very  strict  in  pre- 
venting unauthorized  persons  from  proceeding  to  the  Indies. 
After  the  furor  of  energy  had  subsided,  came,  in  usual  turn,  the 
reign  of  the  elegant  arts,  the  famous  schools  of  painting  and 
sculpture,  and  a  literary-  taste,  which  prove  that  the  hanks  of 
the  (Juadalquivir  were  still  the  seat  of  Spanish  refinement, 
though  ihe  Court  resided  elsewhere.  Hither  came  all  who 
were  characterized  bj*  profundity  of  acquirement,  elegance  of 
sentiment,  or  a  taste  for  the  humanities.  Nor  these  alone, 
but  with  them  the  miserable  and  unfortunate  of  every  class,  so 
that  it  was  stjled  ''refugio  de  pobres  y  amparo  de  desdichados." 
The  absence  of  the  frivolities,  the  phlegmatic  dulness  and 
t3'ranny  of  the  Court  was  probably  beneficial,  foi-  the  effect 
of  the  influx  of  American  wealth  upon  the  Government,  and 
the  freedom  of  the  nation  at  large,  was  bj'^  no  means  beneficial. 
It  made  the  monarch  independent  of  his  subjects,  and  thus  gave 
him  a  stand-point  whence  to  wage  war  upon  their  liberties. 
The  adventurers,  too,  scattered  over  an  immense  territory 
tliousands  of  miles  from  home,  and  surrounded  by  enemies, 
demanded  a  strong  central  power  inconsistent  with,  and  de- 
structive of  individual  independence  at  home.  Madrid  was  the 
seat  of  this  political  government,  but,  in  other  respects,  scarcely 
more  than  the  capital  of  New  Castile,  enjoying  about  as  much 
pre-eminence  as  is  accorded  by  us  to  Washington  city.  Anda- 
lusia was  b}-  far  the  wealthiest  province,  and  its  Ca])tain- 
Grcneral  almost  indej^endent  of  the  central  jxnver.  The  consti- 
tutional regime,  which  succeeded  P^erdinand.  struck  a  great  blow 
at  the  imi)oi'tancc  of  the  provincial  cities.  The  authority  of 
the  Ca])tain-(reneral  was  confined  almost  entii'ely  to  military 
maliris;  the  central  government  extended  the  sphere  of  its 
influence,  and  the  minds  of  men  became  gradually  turned 
toward  the  capital.  And  the  completion  of  the  railroad  systera 
will  have  some  effect  in  the  same  direction.  So  that  Seville  is 
no  longer  the  capital  of  even  the  four  kingdoms  of  Andalusia. 
It  is  a  charming  residence,  but  it  is  indebted  therefor  to  advan- 
tages which  no  Government  can  confer,  and  none  take  awuy. 
17 


CiiArrKK  XIV. 
SOCIAL     I-  I  F  K  . 

Influcnco  of  Climiitc  —  Temperance  —  Doniciitic  IlaMls — The  Houses — Tertiilia — 
Spaiiii--h  Ladios — Tlicir  Cbaractcristic? — Ptyle  of  Beauty — Marriages — IntelliKcnco 
— Fauiily  Relations — Historical — Influence  of  the  Virgin — Of  the  Mohaiumedan 
Relifrion — Farewell. 

Before  leaving  Seville,  I  slioiild  say  something  aVxnit  llie 
people  and  the  soeial  life  in  Andalusia,  of  which  it  presents  the 
fairest  type,  and  to  do  so  ])roperly,  it  is  necessai-y  to  consider 
somewhat  the  jjhysical  and  the  external  conditions  that  influ- 
ence in<t)-e  or  less  every  ])eople  in  the  formation  of  their  hahits, 
and  through  them  of  their  national  chai'acter.  The  Hni*  climate 
of  the  south  of  Spain  causes  a  consideralile  part  of  the  day,  and 
also  of  the  night,  to  he  passed  in  the  opi-u  air,  whethei'  within 
or  without  the  dwelling,  a  circumstance  that  travellers  do  not 
sutliciiMitly  hear  in  mind,  and  are  hence  fre(iuently  deceived  hy 
ajipt  aiances  (jf  jiuMicity.  wliitii  tin-}'  hastily  misconstrue  into 
want  (if  delicacy  and  jtrojur  I'eticence.  They  remark  an  ah- 
sence  of  that  si-nsitive  shriMking  from  the  ])uhlic  view,  that 
secrecy  of  inti'rnal  life  existing  in  cuidei-  cliiiiatt's,  hut  which  is 
no  I'vidence  of  modesty  theiT,  nor  is  the  ahsence  ot"  it  evidence 
of  the  contrary  here.  Both  are  hahits  of  life,  attrihutaltle  to 
the  peculiarities  of  llu'  nature  around  llu-m.  In  no  |iart  ol' 
Andalusia  is  there  any  real  winter.  There  may  he  a  cold  wind, 
a  slight  frost,  and  at  times  a  handl'ul  of  snow  in  some  localities; 
with  enough  variation  in  the  seasons  to  hrace  the  frame  and 
stimulate  the  intellect,  hut  no  weathei-  that  would  reiuler  one 
of  our  rousing  tires  endurable.  As  lor  colds,  rluiiniatisms  and 
aches,  they  are  utterly  unknown.  The  jiurity  ol  the  sk}'  is 
seldfjin  marred  by  u  cloud.  It  is  said,  with  j)rohahle  truth,  that 
there  has  never  been  a  day  since  the  creation  of  the  world,  in 
which   the   sun   wholly  refused  to   shine   upon   Seville,  and   its 


I 


TEMPER ATK    HABITS.  243 

climate  possesses  the  further  recommondation  of  healing  all 
wounds  hut  those  of  tlie  heart.  To  this  should  be  added  the 
elasticity  of  the  atmosphere,  which  renders  even  the  midsum- 
mer's heat  exciting  rather  than  debilitating,  and  the  universal 
good  health  thai  gives  no  excuse  for  dying.  The  vigoi'ous  old 
age  of  the  Andalusians  is  astonishing.  Iiniumci'alih^  of  the 
great  historic  characters  have  exceeded  the  limit  of  foui-  score 
and  ten  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  their  faculties.  The  habit  of 
living  in  the  open  air,  and  the  freedom  from  those  vast  encas- 
ings  of  garments,  which  restrain  all  natural  movement  and 
convert  human  beings  into  walking  bales  of  merchandize,  have 
doubtless  much  to  do  with  the  Andalusian  grace,  so  proverbial. 
\yhatever  be  the  cause,  they  are  graceful,  active,  nervous  and 
capable  of  immense  endurance.  They  are  temperate  to  an  ex- 
treme. Even  in  the  Moorish  days  the  Sevillians  were  renown- 
ed in  this  respect,  and  a  historian  mentions  that  contrary  to  the 
law  of  the  Koran,  it  was  not  considered  improper  to  drink  wine 
in  Seville,  as  indulgence  never  led  to  intoxication.  Any  modern 
Englishman  or  Dane,  not  to  speak  of  "the  old  folks,"  would 
drink  enough  at  a  sitting  to  send  a  company  of  Spaniards  to 
the  asylum.  The  ordinary'  beverage  is  water  or  other  refresh- 
ing and  harmless  liquids,  which  are  sold  at  the  corners  of  the 
streets.  In  Seville  temporary  stands  are  erected  in  ever}'  place 
where  men  congregate  or  pass,  and  furnish  orchata,  naranjada, 
agraz,  and  similar  compounds,  far  more  suitable  to  the  climate 
and  natural  taste  than  the  euphonious  cocktail.  The  naranjada 
is  made  of  orange.,  the  agrazof  unripe  grape;  but  the  most  com- 
mon drink  of  all  is  pure  water,  with  an  azucarillo  or  pa nal,  a 
porous,  spongy  stick  of  sugar,  with  a  drop  of  lemon  dissolved 
in  it,  which  can  be  procured  at  all  times.  The  shop  is  protect- 
ed li-om  the  sun  by  branches  of  orange  or  fig,  and  the  water  is 
kept  cool  in  tiie  alrari'aza^^,  of  which  I  spoke  at  Andnjar. 
Spaniards  drink  water  upon  all  occasions  and  at  all  hours, 
morning,  noon  and  night,  particularly  after  chocolate,  which  is 
made  thick,  and  is  supposed  to  have  bilious  tendencies  unless 
thus  counteracted.  Tiocalities  are  yjraised  by  the  mention  of 
their  springs  and  fountains,  not  of  their  vuieyards,  nor  does  the 
product  of  the  latter  form  an  endless  sul»ject  of  talile  talk.  In 
this  res])ect  the  whole  country  is  alike.  Of  intoxication  they 
have  absolutely  no  experience,  and  nothing  gives  greater  dis- 
gust  than    drunkenness  or  gluttony*    A  Spanish  soldier  will 


244  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

iniirc-li  all  day  on  a  cuji  of  cliocolate  and  a  crust  of  Itroad. 
Owinj;  to  tho  dry  climate,  food  is  said  to  contain  more  nourisli- 
luent  here  than  elsewhere.  At  all  events,  so  it  is  that  the}-  are 
as  tem|)erate  in  eating  as  in  drinking,  and  as  for  the  ladies,  I 
think  they  live  mostly  on  air.  Society  in  the  rest  of  Europe 
revidves  around  the  talile.  In  Andalusia  it  must  he  sou^^ht  on 
the  I'aseo  or  in  the  Tertulia,  and  the  idea  would  not  naturally 
enter  a  iSpaniartl's  head  of  sliowinj;  his  respect  or  friendship  hy 
inviting  you  to  dinner,  thou<^h  you  may  ]ierhaps  he  asketl  to 
stay  and  try  the  " Jnrtunv  <lu  jnft."  .Many  foreigners  cannot  com- 
prehend liow  it  is  that  lliey  dilivi  r  letters  of  introduction  aud 
never  once  see  the  color  of  the  host's  n>alioi;any.  To  their 
entire  freedom  from  jihysical  suflering,  and  this  ahstincnce 
from  over  indulgence  in  the  jtieasures  ol"  the  taMe.  may  per- 
haps l»e  traced  the  cheerfulness  of  dis])osition,  or  rather  the 
absence  of  peevishness  and  spleen  which  characterizes  the  An- 
dalusians.  A  Sj»aniard  seldom  comjdains.  Notwitlistanding 
the  violence  of  their  emotions,  suicide  is  never  resorted  to. 
Indeed,  in  this  heautiful  land,  this  Tierra  de  Dios,  the  usual 
causes  for  self-destruction  can  scarcely  he  said  to  exist,  and  tho 
only  occasion  which  could  justify  such  an  act  would  he  the  eve 
of  one's  dei>artuiv. 

The  Andalusians  havi-  not  yet,  as  a  general  thing,  adopted 
the  late  houi's  of  ^ladii<l.  'Jhe  almost  universal  liahit  in  sum- 
mer, among  the  men.  is  to  I'ise  eai'ly  and  to  hreak  the  fast 
with  a  CUJI  of  chocolate,  taken  in  l>ed.  This  is  the  ilistiyuuo, 
lileraliv,  the  •' uiifast."  After  that  is  the  promenade  for 
pleasure  ()r  husines^,  as  the  case  may  he.  Formerly,  tlu-  prin- 
cijtal  meal  was  taken  ahout  noon,  hut  customs  vaiy  in  dilVerent 
classes  of  society,  though  the  nature  of  the  climate  imposes  a 
ci'i'lain  similarity.  The  names  of  tho  meals  are  derived  from 
the  I.atin:  J///a/ r/o,  the  regular  breakfast,  is  ti-aced  to  "mor- 
5Uii,"  though  the  article  j)reti.\etl  is  susjjicious.  It  would  thus 
signify  "  a  bite,"  which  i>  in  harmony  with  the  habits  of  the 
Komans,  wliose  only  foiiiial  meal  was  the  supper.  So  la  meri- 
endd,  the  lunch,  comes  from  meridianus;  la  comida,  dinner,  from 
comedttir ;  la  <rna,  suj»pi  r.  is  the  same  in  b(jth  languages.  The 
siesta,  in  the  hottest  part  (.f  the  day,  is  peculiarly  Spanish,  and 
woe  to  till'  unlucky  wight  who  distiiilis  lliat  sacred  period. 
Doors  and  shutters  are  closed.  The  jnaster  and  misti'ess,  the 
man  servant  and  maid  aeivant,  tho  cattle,  and  the  stranger 


ARRANGEMENTS    OF    HOUSES.  245 

witliin  their  gates,  jd'o  Avrapped  in  profound  slumber,  and  fow 
inducements,  short  of  salvation,  eould  prevail  u])()n  them  to 
forego  this  enjoyment.  At  three  o'clock,  the  whole  world 
wakes  u});  the  afternoon  cathedral  service  commences;  buyers 
and  sellers  smoke  a  cigarette,  and  start  afresh,  and  the  dogs 
and  cats,  after  a  ])r()f<)und  yawn,  and  a  good  stretch  of  the  hind 
leg,  renew  the  never  varying  round  of  canine  and  feline  exist- 
ence. As  I  have  said,  the  jiromenade  in  winter  on  the  banks 
of  the  Guadalquivir,  and  in  summer  on  the  Plaza  Isabel, 
between  nine  and  eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  is  also  indis- 
pensable. 

But  the  charm  of  social  life  consists  in  the  Tertulia  or  even- 
ing reception,  for  which  the  domestic  architecture  seems  ex- 
actly calculated,  though  it  is  a  more  difficult  task  to  decide 
whether  the  architecture  has  exercised  more  influence  over 
their  habits  of  life,  or  these  over  their  ideas. of  architecture. 
The  ])lan  of  the  houses  is  similar  to  that  introduced  or  adopted 
by  the  Moors,  and  is  eminently  suited  to  the  climate  and  the 
people.  The  outside  rarely  presents  anything  to  adtnire — a 
white  wall,  with  large  grated  balconied  windows,  in  Avhich  the 
occupants  can  sit  and  look  up  and  down  the  narro\v  street.  In 
Avinter  this  is  the  favorite  place  for  the  ladies,  and  it  is  through 
these  iron  bars  that  lovers  are  permitted  to  whisper  their  vows. 
In  an  evening's  walk  one  can  see  the  faithful  swains  thus 
engaged  in  what  is  called  pelar  el pavo,  nor  are  such  interviews 
considered  improper.  The  entry  into  the  house  is  by  a  little 
ball  or  vestibule,  some  ten  feet  or  more  in  width,  and  the  depth 
of  a  room,  with  massive  folding  doors  upon  the  street,  which 
are  seldon\  closed  till  past  midnight.  At  the  foot  of  the  hall  is 
an  ornamented  grating,  giving  admission  to  the  Patio,  the  prin- 
cijtal  part  of  the  bouse — an  open  court,  square  or  oblong, 
varying  frf>m  fifteen  to  fifty  feet  in  size  and  paved  with  marble. 
In  the  centre  stands  a  fountain,  whose  flowing  waters  help  to 
lower  the  temperature.  Around  runs  an  open  corridor  with  a 
colonnade,  upon  whi(di.  the  ground  floor  I'ooms  open.  The  upper 
part  of  the  house  is  similar  in  its  arrangements,  except  that  the 
corridor  is  generally  closed,  with  windows  giving  on  the  Patio. 
There  is  still  another  court  for  the  offices,  and  in  grand  estab- 
lishments several.  It  will  be  seen  at  once  that  the  u])per  por- 
tion is  most  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  consequently  the  winter 
residence,  and  it  is  furnished  accordingly.    In  .lanuary  artificial 


246  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

wnrmtli  is  oocasidiially  di'siraMe,  evi'ii  at  Sovillc.  In  the  total 
aksfiicf  of  firt'plaet's.  a  few  coals  arc  placed  upon  a  hrasero, 
and  the  company  sit  around  lioldin«j  out  their  hands  to  catch 
the  little  heat  it  evolves.  The  first  time  I  took  my  ])lace  in 
the  circle  around  this  caricature  of  a  fire,  it  was  ditlicult  to 
refrain  from  smilinj^,  as  it  j^ave  us  the  complete  air  of  a  collec- 
tion of  beautiful,  half-frozen  witches.  As  soon  as  the  rainy 
season  has  ])assed  and  the  warm  weather  commences,  the 
family  mcive  down  below,  flowers  and  odoriferous  shrubs  are 
placed  in  (he  Patio,  the  ])iano  in  one  corner,  the  «jfuitar  in 
another,  an  awninii;  is  drawn  over  it  during  the  daytime  to 
exclude  the  sun,  and  summer  life  commences.  It  is  here  that 
the  hulies  of  the  family  sit  in  the  cool  of  the  evenini;  to  pursue 
tlieir  occupations  or  to  amuse  themselves  with  music  and 
company.  Jti<:;id  foi-malities  and  tlu-ii-  attendant  cares  and 
anxieties  are  foi'bidden  entranci-.  In  common  with  most 
warm-tempered  people,  their  address  is  at  first  somewhat  cere- 
monious, but  the  manners  of  the  better  class  are  eminently 
frank,  if  there  be  no  cause  for  suspicion.  80  soon  as  a  faint 
intimacy  is  established,  the  title  and  surname  are  dropped;  it 
is  simply  Francisco  or  Manuel,  and  Paca  or  Pcpita,  and  how 
pretty  oven  the  harshest  a|)pellative  sounds  when  thus  spoken. 
Attectation,  the  vanity  ot  display,  indirterence  to  or  forj^etful- 
ness  of  the  rights  of  the  rest  of  the  company,  have  no  place. 
Everv<jne  respects  himself,  and  wiiile  vindicating  bis  own 
equality,  yields  respect  and  equality  to  others,  whatever  may 
be  the  ditierence  of  titular  distinction  ;  and  any  attempt  at  dis- 
play or  effort  to  engross  the  conversation  by  a  speecli  or  a 
lecture,  however  brilliant,  would  be  considered  in  exceedingh' 
bad  taste.  Without  this  sense  of  assuri'd  ]»osition  there  cannot 
exist  llie  jterfectiou  of  mannei-,  for  there  will  either  be  an 
assumption  of  superiority  or  an  acknowledgment  ot  inferiority, 
and  both  ai'e  equally  fatal.  Hence  it  is  that  .Vmerican  genlle- 
imii.  like  tiie  S|)anish  (who  are  thoroughly  I.'i|iiiMi(:iM  among 
eacii  othei'j,  have  always  been  considered  the  best  models  of 
good  Ill-ceding,  feeling  within  themselves  that  consciousness  of 
personal  dignity  and  e(|iiality,  iieeding  no  effoi't  to  procure 
their  recognition,  which  elsewliei-e  must  be  found,  it  found  at 
all.  oidy  in  the  highest  ranks  of  ilu-  aristocracy.  A  stranger, 
judging    them    by   their  lornial,    i-xternal    demeanor,    is    quite 


SPANISH    LADIKS.  247 

unprepared  for  the  cliarining  freedoiu  win'eh  reiixiis  iu  the 
domestic  circle 

Upon  the  deliver}'  of  your  letter  of  introduction,  a  Spanish 
gentleman  immediately  presents  you  with  his  houso,  Afi casa 
estd  a  su  disposichn  or  esta  easa  es  suya,  without  thereby  intend- 
ing to  make  you  a  conveyance,  and  give  you  the  right  to  insti- 
tute an  action  of  ejectment,  which  would  involve  you  in  all  the 
troubles  of  housekee])ing,  but  merely  to  inform  you  that  you 
arc  welcome  in  the  evening,  if  you  can  find  any  one  in.  Do 
not  think,  hrwever,  that  he  or  the  household  are  going  to  put 
themselves  out  in  the  slightest  degree.  Some  families  are  at 
homo  on  stated  evenings,  and  it  generally  happens  that  3'ou 
find  them  in.  but  if  you  do  not,  why  you  can  pass  on  to  another 
acquaintance,  and  there  is  no  offence  meant  and  none  taken. 
Nothing  can  surpass  the  fair}^  aspect  of  a  family  evening  party, 
viewed  from  the  grating  The  suspended  lamps  give  just 
enough  light  to  see  the  sparkling  dro])s  of  the  fountain,  and  to 
recognize  the  ladies,  half  hid  among  the  flowers.  With  their 
beauty,  so  suited  to  a  scene  of  the  kind,  they  scarcely  seem  to 
be  of  this  earth.  You  enter,  are  welcomed,  pointed  to  a  seat. 
If  the  ladies  of  the  house  be  agreeable  you  are  seldom  the 
onl}'  guest.  The  time  flies  by,  chocolate,  sweetmeats,  perhajis 
ices,  ])erhaps  pure  water,  help  it  along.  The  watchman  cries 
the  hour  in  your  hearing.  Heavens  I  can  it  be  so  late  ?  You 
place  yourself  at  the  feet  of  your  fair  entertainers  {me  pongo  d 
los  pies  dc  vm.  senorita).  They  kiss  your  hand  {hem  la  iiumo  a  vm. 
cabcUero).  You  skip  along  the  street  as  though  supported  on 
the  air}-  pinions  of  the  wind.  Y'ou  dream  of  black  eyes  and 
glossy  hair,  of  guitars  and  delicate  fingers,  of  fairies  seated  in 
0])ening  rose  buds,  waving  their  fans  to  you  and  enveloping 
3'our  eyes  with  tiny  lace  veils. 

But  my  lady  readers  will  exclaim,  what  is  all  this  i-ha])sody 
about?  You  gf)  into  a  house  with  a  court;  see  some  ladies 
with  fans  and  guitars;  3'ou  drink  a  little  water,  eat  a  cake,  and 
come  out  raving  about  fairies  and  angels.  We  see  nothing 
wonderful  in  all  tliat.  There  must  have  been  some  very  intel- 
lectual convei'sation  ;  pray,  what  were  j'ou  talking  about? 
Alas  I  you  cannot  tell.  You  do  not  remember  three  words  that 
were  uttered.  It  was  very  witty,  very  graceful,  very  charm- 
ing; even  the  pauses  were  delicious,  but  exactly  what  it  was 
you  cannot  recollect.     It   did   not   impress  you  as  displaying 


24^  SPAIN    ANP    THK    SPANIARDS. 

profound  erudition.  Indeed,  the  edueation  of  Spanisl)  ladies  is 
generally  soniewliat  ne<;K'cte<l.  Tliey  learn  irom  IxioUs  little, 
except  the  rudiments,  and  of  the  outside  world  beyond  the 
Pyrenees  have  exeecdini^ly  confused  ideas.  A  young  Arago- 
nesa,  who  had  Just  left  school  with  a  prize,  and  was  full  of 
intelligence  an<l  patriotism,  once  asked  me  if  Morocco  and 
America  were  not  near  each  (»thcr.  There  are  nunu-rous  ex- 
ceptions, hut  reading,  writing,  a  little  arithmetic,  geograjdiy, 
poetry,  Spanish  history,  and  the  lives  of  the  saints,  with  a  tol- 
erahle  knowledge  of  French  and  music,  is  all  one  necil  usually 
expect.  Of  the  whole  list  of  '•  ologics"  they  are  entirely  inno- 
cent. Your  lady  questioners  turn  away  with  indignation,  and 
ask  how  a  woman  can  he  agreeahle  who  is  ignorant  of  con- 
choh)gy,  does  not  know  sicnite  from  horid)lende,  and  could 
not  solve  a  quadratic  equation  to  save  herself  from  eternal  per- 
dition. For  answer,  1  refei*  tliem  to  tlie  Fmperoi'  of  the 
Frendi,  who  laid  the  loftiest  diadem  in  Christendom  at  the 
feet  of  one  of  Andalusia's  daughters,  and  has  seen  no  reason  to 
repent  the  sacrifice.  The  truth  is.  that  the  whole  chai-m  of 
cither  man  or  woman  does  not  consist  in  the  amount  of  the 
outside  world  which  tlioy  have  managed  to  cram  into  the 
inside  of  their  brains — a  S3stem  that  should  be  styled  imliication 
rather  than  education.  You  would  be  very  much  shocked,  in 
walking  thi'ougli  a  tlowery  gi'ove  at  sunset,  if  your  conipanion 
were  to  break  away  after  some  new  s[)ecies  of  the  Ilygoniedon 
Septentrionalis,  or  the  jaw  tooth  of  a  decaying  red-sandstono 
monster.  I  am  huvv  tluit  no  .\ii<laluza  wmild.but  in  these  mat- 
ters everA'one  must  follow  his  own  taste.  Were  some  benefi- 
cent divinit}'  to  ])resent  the  author  with  a  ))encil  dipped  in  the 
hues  of  the  rainboM',  he  might  undertake  to  ex])lain  the  mys- 
tery of  tlu'ir  ])owers  of  fascination  ;  without  such  supernatural 
aid  lie  would  probably  meet,  at  least  deserve,  the  fate  of  Pro- 
metheus. The  women  of  eveiy  country  have  some  peculiar 
attraction.  To  these  alone  is  it  resei-ved  to  unite  all.  Their 
inexpressible  beauty  has,  doubtless,  much  t(»  do  with  it.  and  it 
certainly-  is  beyond  description.  The  most  crazy  dream  of 
poetry  in  its  wildest  conceptions  never  surpassed  this  reality. 
The  niei'e  contour  of  the  face  is  a  small  pni't.  lor  her  beauty, 
like  that  of  her  country,  is  subjective,  and  consists  rallier  in 
the  expression,. in  the  mingled  softness  and  fire,  the  enthusiasm 
that    sparkles    forth.      Those    uiiiatboniable    eyes   are   Ijut    the 


STYLE    OF    BEAITY. — TUKTR    SINCERITY.  240 

windows  of  the  soul,  and  that  inimitahle  o-i-aco  of  person 
which  enchants  the  heliolder.  is  only  a  part  of  the  harmony  of 
the  universe  that  seeks  in  her  a  connecting:;  link  hetween  our 
mortal  cloaks  and  the  mystic  music  ])ervadin£j::  ci'eati(»n.  Wliile 
in  repose,  the  expression  of  her  face,  in  tendi'r  symi»at1iy  witli 
the  soul,  is  pensive,  even  melancholy,  hut.  upon  tiie  ap]>roach  of 
a  friend,  she  returns  to  earth  like  the  awakening  of  a  morninj;- 
in  s))rinii;.  Every  feature  heams  with  attraction,  and  pi-ecious 
peai'ls  drop  from  her  rosy  li])s.  Who  that  has  a  heart  to  lose, 
could  refuse  to  lay  it  at  her  feet  'i  Ah  !  Jjove  was  surely  born 
in  Spain.  Artless  and  unsnspcctini;-  in  hei'  thouu'lits,  she  re- 
ceives every  expression  of  admiration  without  vanity,  and 
seems  to  value  it  rather  liecausc  of  the  source  whence  it  pro- 
ceeds, than  as  a  tribute  to  her  own  charms.  The  simplicity  of 
her  manner  is  only  to  he  equalled  by  the  kindness  of  her  heart. 
All  this,  united  with  an  ardent  temperament,  renders  her  capa- 
ble of  the  noblest  deeds  of  self-devotion,  of  which  the  maid  of 
Zaragoza  is  no  isolated  example.  The  pji-eat  peculia)'ity  of 
Spanish  women  is  their  sincerity^  and  open-heartedness.  They 
will  speak  to  3'ou  with  ])raise  of  the  ladies  of  other  countries, 
admire  their  beauty  and  good  qualities,  but  add  no  tieuen  fran- 
qiieza  como  iiosofras  (they  are  not  frank  as  we  are).  Spain  is 
no  land  of  hypocrites.  It  is  the  absence  of  this  frankness 
which  makes  Avomen  nisce  and  tickle,  defects  thoroughly  de- 
tested by  both  sexes.  The  character  of  a  flirt,  or  whatever 
maybe  the  proper  appellation — I  mean  a  beauty — Avho  (Udights 
in  general  admiration,  and  makes  use  of  her  charms  to  bewil- 
der the  susce]»tible,  without  experiencing  any  emotion  beyond 
that  of  gratified  vanit}'.  who,  in  a  word,  thinks  only  of  herself 
and  her  triumphs — is  as  little  understood  as  adn\ired.  Xot  that 
they  are  by  any  means  indifferent  to  the  good  opinion  of  the 
other  sex,  for  after  all  they  are  women  : 

En  ]iiiliiciii  I.'j  Piincc.«a, 
En  la  ciuda'l  la  Seiiora, 
En  la  nlilea  la  i)astora, 
Y  en  la  Corte  la  Duqucsa, 
Madre  !  a  ningima  le  pesia. 
Que  le  (ligan  que  es  perfela. 

And  custom  has  rendered  it  not  imi)erfinent  to  ex]iress  admira- 
tion at  the  sight  of  a  beaut}',  if  done  in  tlie  delicately  courteous 
manner  usual  in  this  scetiou.    But  this  of  itself  is  not  sufticient. 


250  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

Indeed,  fi'W  Spanisli  ladies  have  any  amMlioii  to  act  tin-  part  of 
belles;  to  l»e  the  ivei]>ients  of  a  thousand  little  familiar  gallan- 
tries wliich  mean  nothing,  and  pass  away,  and  are  forijotten, 
like  mornin:;;  shadows.  Others  may  he  satisfied  with  formal 
and  ceremonious  eourtesies.  The  homage  they  reijuire  is  such 
as  should  he  paid  to  divinitj'  on  heiided  knees,  yet  so  irresistihlo 
iH  the  infatuation  inspired  hy  these  daughters  of  the  sun,  that 
the  hel])less  w<trsliip])er  is  too  hap])y  to  obe}'  their  imperious 
commands.  WIk-ii  the  system  of  gallants  (curtijo  was  the 
Sjtanish  word)  prevailed  in  Europe,  travellers  wondered  at  the 
slavery  it  iinj>ose(l  in  Spain.  The  eoi-tejo  was  bound  to  be  ever 
present.  Jf  a  shawl,  glove  or  fan  was  to  be  picked  nji.  he  was 
always  on  hand,  and  any  (lisjxisilion  to  be  ro/riry/f  discredited  him 
in  the  eyes  of  the  whole  eonununity.  Sincerity  and  C(»nstancy 
in  the  women  correspond  to  obstinacy  <jr  tenacity  in  the  men, 
for  which  they  liave  been  famous  since  the  days  of  Ilannilial. 
Si)aiiish  women  are  ])assionate,  and  if  they  do  fall  in  lyve  it  is 
a  serious  matter.  Wiien  they  give  their  hearts,  it  is  forever. 
Self  is  forgotten,  and  their  wliole  existence  wrapped  up  in  devo- 
tion to  the  object  of  their  choice.  Three-fourths  of  the  misery, 
and  no  inconsid'crable  portion  of  the  crimes,  of  such  frecpient 
occurrence  in  the  I'eninsula,  are  attriluitablo  to  this  cause. 
The  lower  classes  still  use  tiie  dagger  to  reveiigi'  themselves 
upon  a  rival  or  a  traitor,  and  il'  tlie  higher  raid<s  are  less 
demonstrative,  it  is  not  because  they  feel  less  keenly.  Hut  can 
a  woman  inspire  devotion  wlio  is  incajialtle  herself  of  jealousy  ? 
You  are  seldom  left  in  doulit  as  (o  die  position  you  occupy  in 
her  estimation.  One  conse(iueme  is,  tiial  the  system  of  mar- 
riage sales  which  reigns  in  Kngland  and  Finance  has  only  mod- 
erate sway  in  Spain.  In  l''i"ance,  3'oung  ladies  have  no  iilierty 
whatever.  It  would  be  an  insult  to  venture  beyond  the  merest 
formal  couilesies.  They  are  taken  from  the  convent,  and 
remain  in  a  most  irksome  state  of  I'csti'ainl  until  marriage — to 
which  event  they  look  forward  as  the  door  of  Irecdom — and 
acce])t  any  suitable  ixirti  who  has  been  selected  Ijy  their  j)arents. 
In  lOngland  they  iiave  full  Iilierty,  but  the  same  end  is  attained 
in  a  \i-vy  dill'erent  way.  .Manni  ami  the  daughter  go  out  to  the 
chase  together,  and  any  poor  fellow  who  has  a  title  or  a  fortune  is 
hunted  down  remorselessly.  The  practical  residts  of  this  system 
seem  to  be  better  than  that  of  the  French,  but  in  itself  it  is 
inlinitely  more  humiliating  and  disgusting.    In  Spain,  a  medium 


ELDERLY    LADIES. — FILIAL    AFFECTION.  251 

between  the  two  prevails.  They  have  far  moi-e  liberty  tlian  in 
Franee,  fur  le.ss  than  in  England.  Young  people  are  allowed  to 
say  agreeable  things  to  each  other,  and  insinuating  compli- 
ments fre([uently  pass.  But  whatever  be  the  restraint  imposed, 
few  Spanish  ladies  would  sell  themselves  or  allow  themselves  to 
be  sold  by  their  parents.  Of  course,  in  an  old  countiw  where 
wealth  is  not  easily  accumulated,  some  regard  must  be  had  to 
that  commodity.  I^robably  every  woman  would  like  to  make 
what  is  considered  a  good  match,  and  sometimes  there  as  well 
as  elsewhere 

The  Knave  of  Diamonds  tries  his  wilj'  arts, 

And  wins!  (Oh  !  shameful  chance  !)  the  Queen  of  Hearts. 

Hut  it  is.  nevertheless,  a  tiMith  that  six  marriages  out  of  ten  are 
made  against  the  better  judgment  of  the  parents,  though  I 
cannot  say  that  in  the  long  run  the  ])arties  seem  any  the  hap- 
])ier  therefor.  Love  often  overrides  prudential  considerations. 
"At  first  sight  they  have  changed  eyes;"  and,  if  the  history  of 
Dona  Clara  de  Viedma  and  Don  Luis  is  no  longer  re-enacted 
in  all  particulars,  the  spirit  which  dictated  it  still  survives. 

After  a  certain  age,  women  necessarily  change  the  object  of 
their  lives.  The  disposition  and  the  power  to  attract  the  hom- 
age of  the  other  sex  alike  diminish,  and  more  serious  subjects 
fill  their  thoughts.  Li  those  countries  where  the  ])rincipal 
object  of  ever}"  woman's  existence  is  to  get  married,  the  match- 
ing off  of  daughters  is  the  absorbing  occupation  of  old  age  ; 
and  so  ])0werful  an  instinct  has  nature  planted  in  the  mother's 
breast  for  this  purpose,  that  the  ordinary  feelings  of  delicacy 
are  quite  forgotten.  Every  humiliation  is  cheerfully  submitted 
to  which  can  conduce  to  the  success  of  the  cherished  ]>ur))Ose. 
There  is  nothing  of  all  tlii-  in  Spanish  society.  If  ladies  do 
not  wish  to  marr}'.  they  can  remain  single  or  enter  a  convent, 
and  both  are  honorable  alternatives.  Old  maidism  is  not  con- 
sidered such  a  dreadful  condition  as  to  lie  avoided  by  the  sacri- 
fice of  everything  that  could  render  married  life  endurable  to  a 
Sjjaniaril.  J'elieved  from  this  great  burthen  of  marrying  off 
their  daughters  at  every  hazard,  the  mothei-s  ai'c  apt  to  devote 
their  time  to  religion  and  charity,  and  nothing  can  be  more 
charming  than  the  family  circle  presided  over  by  such  an  one. 
The  sons  and  daughters  are  not  made  to  feel  that  their  longer 
presence  in  the  mansion  is  irksome,  and  that  it  is  time  they  go 


252  SPAIN    ANl»    TMK    SPANIAUDS. 

Ibrth  to  scfk  tlieirowii  nosts.  Tlio}-  in  turn  repay  this  fostering 
love  with  the  purest  lilial  afToction.  Every  traveller  must  have 
met.  in  liis  limited  experience,  instances  of  tonchini^  devotion 
on  the  part  <•<"  widows'  sons.  The  mother  of  my  Madrid  hostess 
was  still  living  at  .'"Seville,  and  one  of  her  sons  had  riMuained 
single  in  order  that  he  might  the  hetter  discharge  his  duties  to 
her.  Such  occurrences  are  still  more  common  in  the  higher 
ranks.  The  cultivation  of  this  reciprocity  of  generous  feeling 
throws  a  charm  over  the  homeliest  face;  and  the  absence  of 
selfish  purpose  renders  the  com])any  of  elderly  ladies  far  more 
agreeahle  than  what  can  he  fcmnd  in  a  state  of  society  where 
females,  who  survive  their  attractions,  take  to  opium,  women's 
rights  associations  and  l-'.xclci-  Hall  meetings,  or,  jterhaps.  still 
indulge  in  ihe  delusion  of  rouge  and  pow<ler.  Of  course,  all 
this  does  not  apply  to  Madrid,  though  there  l>c  more  excei»tions 
there  than  is  generalU'  supposed.  In  too  man}-  lofty  instances, 
the  eve  of  metro])olitan  lifi',  like  its  morning,  presents  n<jught 
hut  frivolity  and  dissipation. 

1  have  said  that  Spniiisli  woiiicn  are  imperfectly  educatt'd, 
and  I  miirht  add  that  they  seldom  travel  heyontl  the  limits  of 
their  own  ])rovincc.  There  are  exceptions  to  both  statements; 
siicli  is,  however,  the  general  rule.  Yet,  the  term  "ignorant," 
in  tlie  signification  it  conveys  with  us,  is  entirely  ina])])licahle, 
unless  ignorance  be  defined  the  n\ere  negation  of  acquired 
knowledge,  and  in  that  case  the  "ignorance"  of  Solomon  would 
astonish  a  modern  boarding  school  miss.  In  those  countries 
where  learning  is  forced  ui)on  everyone,  tin-  want  of  it,  in  cer- 
tain classes  of  society',  is  evidence  of  stupidity,  and  the  two  .ire 
considered  synon3'mous.  liiit  the  natural  vivacity  and  bright- 
ness of  the  Andalusian  inlellecl  and  llie  cullivalion  which  it 
receives  from  conversation,  make  ani|iK'  amenils  for  any  defi- 
cienc}?^  of  mere  knowle(lge,  ;nid  the  women  still  ret.ain  unim- 
paired the  charms  with  wliicli  heavi'n  originally  endtiwiMl  them. 
What  paiticularly  distinguishes  the  Andaluzas  throughout 
S]»ain  is  the  indescribable  thing  called  (jiutciit.  It  is  not  siiujily 
wit  noi'  grace,  but  a  comliination  nl'  both,  wi'lded  tj»gether 
with  some  celestial  cement,  I  know  not  what.  Vou  never  con- 
found the  ";S''t/  Aiuhduza''  \\\\\\  that  from  any  other  province. 
It  has  lis  distinct  a  chai'acter.  and  almost  as  great  a  fame,  as 
the  attic  salt  of  antitpiity.  Tlie  most  indifferent  and  insignifi- 
cant occurrence  served  up  with   this  condiment  becomes  most 


GENIUS. ACCOMl'LISHMENTS.  253 

palatable,  and  all  the  ladies  have  it  in  the  ])ui'est  form.  An- 
dalusia has  been  the  home  of  genius  from  the  days  of  Trajan 
and  Seneca  to  our  own.  Either  the  localit}*  or  the  climate 
seems  to  develop  that  fervid  imagination,  ■without  some  of 
which  there  is  little  talent  even  of  the  order  called  practical. 
The  men  do  not  make  such  good  soldiers,  for  that  very  reason ; 
the  restraint  and  ennid  of  a  camp  life  is  too  irksome.  ]iut  as 
rulors,  genei'als,  orators,  poets  and  j^ainlers,  tliov  have  always 
shone  pre-eminent.  These  same  endowments  distinguished 
them  in  the  time  of  the  Moors,  and  still  more  among  the 
Romans : 

Alite  gentcs  quos  foedcre  Roma  rcecpit 
Aut  nruiis  domuit,  varios  aiitantur  in  usus 
Itnjicrii,  *  "*'  *  * 

*  *  Fruges,  ivraria.  miles 

Undiquc  conveuiunt,  toto((ue  ex  orbc  leguntur. 
IliBC  gcncrat  qui  cuncta  regaut;  nee  laude  vjrorum 
Censcri  contcnta  fuit,  nisi  matribu.s  iB(iue 
Vinoeret  ct  gcmiuo  eertatim  splendida  scxii 
Flavillani.  Marianiquc  daret.  iiulcliranuiui'  Sercnnin. 

Xor  are  the  lines  of  the  Eonnm  poet  less  applicable  to  mod- 
ern than  to  ancient  times.  Scarce  one  of  the  great  men  of  the 
Spain  of  this  centurj*  tirst  saw  the  light  north  of  the  Tagus, 
and  among  the  rival  claims  of  the  other  sex  few  Avill  hesitate 
in  awarding  the  golden  apple.  In  addition  to  gifts  of  intellect, 
they  possess  all  the  Oriental  grace  of  narrative.  A  lady  once 
undertook  to  tell  me  an  incident  from  one  of  the  old  Spanish 
chronicles.  The  bare  facts  I  knew  already  better  than  she,  as 
I  had  read  them  in  the  book  itself,  Avhich  she  evidently  had 
not.  But  what  a  ditt'erence  in  the  style  of  narrative!  In  my 
hands  it  would  have  been  the  text  of  the  opera  without  the 
music;  in  hers,  it  was  a  poem  set  by  Mendelssohn.  They  have 
a  great  deal  of  vivacity,  yet  they  are  by  nc;  means  so  given  to 
gesticulation  as  the  French,  nor  have  they  that  sort  of  ficti- 
tious excitement  unaccompanied  by  real  ])assion.  But  they 
make  great  use  <»f  those  natui-al  gestures  which  are  the  ajtpro- 
priate  aids  of  expression  in  persons  who  feel  strongly.  The 
fun  is  invarialdy  appealed  to;  the  elderly  ones  ot  the  old 
school  invoke  the  saints  on  slight  provocation,  crossing  them- 
selves all  tiie  while  devoutly;  and  all  ages  have  an  inexhaust- 
ible fund  of  conversation,  which,  whether  instructive  or  not,  is 
amazingly  agreeable.     Their  brilliant,  llorid  iujaginations,  and 


254  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

the  facility  afforded  Ity  the  assonante  rliyino.  render  poetry  an 
alnio8t  universal  ^ift.  One  acconijilislnnent  they  possess  to 
perfection.  I  cannot  say  they  learn  it,  for  it  seems  to  be  born 
within  fheni.  I  mean  tlie  <^iiitar.  Ilavini^  no  conception  of 
the  abstruse  matiieinatical  music  that  subordinates  the  voice  to 
the  instrument,  they  touch  inimitably  well  this,  which  has 
verv  little  jiower,  except  as  an  accompaniment,  and  they  have 
by  nature  an  exquisite  taste,  which  impels  them  to  make  every 
thinn  subservient  to  the  principal  end.  so  that  you  are  never 
teni])ted  to  forijct  the  music  in  the  skill  of  tlu-  in-rfornicr,  or  in 
admiration  for  some  artistic  fingerin*^.  The  music  of  an  An- 
daluza  seems,  as  it  were,  to  have  become  a  part  of  herself,  and 
to  be  but  another  natural  means  of  giving  utterance  to  her 
thoughts  and  feelings.  The  men,  in  turn,  all  sing.  I  rather 
think  the  taste  for  serenading  has  died  out  in  the  large  cities 
upon  tlir  liigiiways  of  travel,  luit  in  smaller  and  remoter  towns 
it  is  still  the  nightly  occupation  of  the  young  gallants,  who 
]>ass  the  evenings  under  the  l)alcony  of  their  mistress,  and  are 
I'c'warded  l)y  a  conversation  tlirougli  tiie  grating  of  tlu-  win- 
dow. Kvery  guitar  player  in  S[)ain,  however,  is  by  no  means 
a  skilful  performer;  a  great  deal  of  what  one  hears  is  mere 
strumming. 

The  influence  of  Murillo  is  still  felt,  though  his  excellence  be 
not  equalled,  and  it  is  said  that  if  all  the  |iaintings  in  Seville 
were  ])ut  in  a  row,  they  would  reach  to  Madrid.  There  is  an 
astonishing  disposition  to  appreciate  the  beauties  of  the  art, 
even  if  there  be  a  deficiency  of  scientific  knowledge.  Persons 
from  whom  you  would  little  expect  it  can  give  a  passably  good 
opinion  on  the  subject,  and  there  is  nothing  more  agreeable 
tiian  to  listen  to  a  young  Andaluza,  wliilc  she  hesitatingly 
points  out  the  excellencies  of  sonic  favorite  [»icture,  and  gives 
her  reasons  for  the  jn-eference.  Her  own  nature  seems  to 
reflect  upon  the  object,  and  slu'  discovers  far  moiu'  beauties 
than  the  artist  ever  conceived.  In  ])articuiar,  do  I  remember 
one  such  conversation  upon  .Murillo's  "  (iiiardian  Angel."  which 
first  elevated  ine  to  an  ajipi-cciat ion  of  its  jxTfcclion.  ( )n  the 
other  hand,  they  seem  to  me  ileticient  in  the  power  of  discov- 
ering defects,  and  both  are  necessary  to  correct  criticism. 

An  idea  has  obtained  ciiTiilat  ion  alii-na<l  to  the  effect  that 
Spanish  ladies,  ])articulai'ly  the  Andaluzas,  s[)end  their  days  in 
idleness.     Nothing,  in  my  opinion,  could  be  farther  from  the 


FAMILY    RELATIONS.  255 

truth.  Women  here  certtiinl_y  do  not  perform  the  onerous  and 
unsuitable  tasks  wliicli  are  imposed  upon  them  in  less  gallant 
countries,  nor  do  I  think  they  should.  Xaturc  never  intended 
the  weaker  sex  to  do  the  work  of  the  world.  But  eveiy3'oung 
lady  of  the  better  class  possesses  a  knowledge,  more  or  less 
thorough,  of  the  art  of  housekeeping;  though  it  is  true  that  the 
simplicity  and  temperate  habits  of  the  Spaniards  render  this 
a  comparatively  light  dut3^  The  dwellings  in  Seville  are 
models  of  neatness,  and  not  surpassed  in  Holland,  and  travel- 
lers, who  have  penetrated  into  their  interior  life,  will  sustain 
me  in  saying  that  the  scene  presented  by  the  second  Patio,  so 
far  ii'om  being  one  of  idleness,  appears  rather  to  be  an  imita- 
tion of  the  mansion  of  Penelope  as  di'awn  by  Homer.  An 
Andaluza  would  be  surprised  to  learn  that  there  are  countries 
in  the  world  where  it  is  considered  little  less  than  disgraceful 
for  ladies  of  fashion  to  manage  household  aifairs. 

The  family  relations  in  Spain  are  very  pleasant.  Parental 
tyrann}'.  and  the  consequent  quarrels  between  father  and  son, 
are  rare  exceptions,  nor  is  it  thought  neeessaiy  that  the  heir 
and  the  ancestor  should  be  of  opposite  opinions — i-ather  the 
contrary.  There  is  a  most  respectful  deference  of  manner,  but 
it  partakes  of  the  nature  of  friendship,  and  there  is  little  exer- 
cise of  authority  for  authority's  sake.  I  think  that  this  is  the 
reason  why  the  children  have  so  much  ease  of  manner,  without 
being  forward.  The  |»lan  of  separating  them  from  the  family 
circle  just  at  the  age  when  their  characters  are  forming,  is  not 
fashionable,  nor  have  young  ladies'  boarding  schools  yet  been 
introduced.  The  girls  are  either  taught  by  instructors  who 
come  to  the  house,  or  by  tlieir  relatives;  the  boys  go  to  the 
local  school.  The  son  is  thus  the  friend  of  the  family,  and 
feels  that  the  ))atei"nal  house  is  his  home.  In  America,  it  is 
necessary  to  introduce  boys  early  into  life,  because  with  us 
everyone  musi  be  essentially  the  architect  of  his  own  fortunes. 
There  is  no  such  thing  as  a  fixed  position.  The  wheel  of  for- 
tune is  continuallj-  revolving,  and  he  who  remains  quiet  is  sure 
to  be  crushed.  But  in  Spain,  as  in  most  European  countries, 
society  is  comparatively  stationary.  The  contest  cannot  be- 
gin until  the  recruits  have  been  educated  and  introducetl  into 
the  world  by  those  who  have  already  obtained  a  position. 
The  noble  spectacle  is  unknown  of  a  young  man,  without  the 
adventitious  aids  of  wealth  or  birth,  commencing  at  the  lowest 


25G  Sl'AlN    AM»    THK    Sl'AMAUnS. 

round,  aiul  by  virtue,  talent  an<l  industry,  in  a  score  of  j-cars 
attainini;  a  place  among  the  honored  of  the  land. 

The  relation  of  husliand  and  wife  is  ]irohahly  more  hiati^fac- 
tor}-  than  is  the  average  of  the  rest  of  Hurope.  In  the  lower 
classes  it  certainly  is,  for  elsewhere  in  Kurope  virtue  can 
scarcelv  he  said  to  exist  among  the  inferior  ranUs,  and  1  can 
truthfully  assert  that  in  an  evening's  walk  down  the  juincipal 
tljoroughfares  of  Loudon.  I  have  heheld  more  infamy  than  in 
all  Spain  put  together.  But  regarded  froni  our  point  of  view, 
it  is  still  had  enough.  Yet  here,  also,  a  ditt'erence  of  customs 
has  given  rise  to  a  great  misconception  on  the  part  of  travellers, 
for  cei'tain  things  are  said,  and  certain  things  are  done,  inno- 
cent in  themselves  and  in  their  effects,  which  elsewhere  would 
he  considered  evidence  of  great  impropriety.  So,  on  the  other 
hand,  an  unmarried  lady's  going  out  alone,  or  acce]>ting  the  arm 
of  a  gentleman,  occurrences  certainly  not  unusual  in  America, 
would  almost  ruin  a  reputation  in  S]>ain.  A  few  years  ago  it 
would  have  been  considered  a  dreadful  thing  lor  a  uocia  to 
shake  hands  even  with  her  cousin.  Then,  too,  nothing  is  con- 
cealed. Whatever  evil  exists  is  visible.  The  fair  fame  of  the 
country  has  suffered  much  from  one  class  of  travellers  who, 
ignorant  of  the  language  and  the  people,  have  thought  it  worth 
while  to  digest  the  fables  of  the  valets  <le  place,  and  still  more 
from  another  class  who  have  learned  just  enough  of  both  to 
mislead  them.  Yet  llirough  the  ainubic  of  one  or  tlie  other  of 
these  arc  our  ideas  of  Spanish  manners  for  the  most  part  dis- 
tilled. Whatever  laxity  of  morals  may  exist  I  trace  to  the 
j)articiilar  circumstances  of  the  last  hundred  years.  Forniei'ly, 
Spain  was  distinguished  above  all  other  countries  b}'  the  sanc- 
tity with  which  the  marriage  tie  was  regarded.  Unfortunately, 
the  present  queen — i)laced  l)y  her  jjosition  at  the  head  of 
society — has  given  a  shocking  exan\ple  of  want  of  pro[U'iely, 
iler  father  and  mother  before  her,  and  her  father's  father  and 
mother,  were  among  the  worst  of  the  race;  and  the  effect  of  a 
sovereign's  influence,  for  good  or  for  evil,  is  exemplilied,  to  our 
own  knowledge,  in  the  English  court,  which,  IVoni  being  under 
Geoi-ge  \\\  the  most  corrupt  and  licentious  in  Juirope,  has 
become  one  of  the  most  correct.  Could  the  Dutchess  of  J\Iont- 
pensier  be  substituted  for  her  sister,  a  complete  restoration  of 
the  old  Spanish  manners  might  lie  accomplished.  All  that  I 
have  said,  however,  applies  rather  to  Madrid,  where  the  queen's 


EVIL   INFLUENCE    OF    TILE    COURT. — HUSBAND    TO    BLAME.      257 

example  is  felt,  and  wliere  the  fashion  of  mercenary  alliances, 
Avith  their  inevitable  result,  has  been  imported  among  other  for- 
eign barbaiisms,  rather  than  to  the  provinces.  The  most  con- 
clusive testimony  in  favor  of  the  Spanish  fair  is  the  esteem  in 
"which  they  have  been  held  when  married  into  other  countries. 
Blanelie  of  Castile,  St.  Isabel,  and  the  present  Empress  of  the 
French,  will  sustain  my  assertion.  I  remember  a  touching 
instance  of  marital  aflfeetion  which  occurred  even  at  Madrid 
during  my  sojourn.  A  man  in  tlie  humbler  walks  of  life  was 
murdered  in  an  affray.  His  wife  was  sent  for.  U})on  entering 
the  shop  where  the  dead  bod}'  lay  exposed,  she  uttered  a  pierc- 
ing shriek,  and  exclaiming,  "  During  twenty  j^ears  Ave  have 
never  had  an  unkind  word,"  fell  dead  by  his  side.  I  did  not 
Avitness  the  scene,  but  it  is  a  very  natural  one  in  Spain.  When 
happily  married  they  bring  a  full  and  overflowing  measure  of 
love,  far  beyond  what  an}-  mortal  has  a  right  to  expect,  uniting 
the  sterling  (pnilities  of  the  sex,  sincerity,  constancy,  devotion, 
rev^erence,  Avith  those  adornments  whieh  form  the  chann  of 
life,  and  I  have  yet  to  learn  that  J  uno  is  the  less  to  be  ad- 
mired or  respected  because  encircled  with  the  magic  cestus. 

It  would  be  unjust  not  to  lay  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
blanie  for  such  derelictions,  Avhen  they  do  occur,  upon  the  men, 
Avho  in  this  connection  have  somewhat  fallen  from  their  former 
distinction,  and  in  so  falling  have  shaken  one  of  the  noblest 
pillars  of  the  temple.  It  is  no  longer  strictly  true,  as  was  said 
in  the  Eomaunt  of  the  Spanish  Ladye's  Love,  that 

Spaniards  fraught  with  jealousy  wo  «ft  do  find, 

But  Englisluncn  throughout  the  world  arc  counted  kind. 

Give  them,  however,  their  due.  No  Spanish  peasant,  not  to  say 
gentleman,  Avould  feel  the  pangs  of  wounded  honor  assuaged 
by  the  scandal  of  a  public  trial  and  a  verdict  for  ten  thousand 
pounds.  Something  is  due  to  them  for  the  past  if  not  for  the 
present,  and  Avhen  the  history  of  European  civilization  is  truly 
written,  it  Avill  be  found  that  Avomen  are  indebted  for  their 
present  elevated  position  more  to  the  Peninsula  than  to  any 
other  portion  of  the  globe.  In  the  lower  empire  they  Avere 
placed  upon  a  footing  of  apparent  equality,  Avhich,  by  dej)riving 
them  of  the  su})port  that  the  strong  and  generous  are  ever 
ready  to  extend  to  the  feeble,  produced,  in  fact,  the  greatest 
inequality.     Women  being  by  nature  not  so  well  fitted  as  men 


2r)S  SPAIN    AM»    THF,    SPANIARDS. 

to  cope  with  adversity  in  tlio  i^ivat  stni<:;gle  upon  earth,  have, 
fortunatel}'  for  thoin,  been  furnished  with  powers  ofrasciuatiou  , 
and  attraction  which  restore  the  bahanee.  There  is  a  natural  I 
disposition,  on  the  ])art  of  everyone,  to  protect  those  who  are 
incapaViie  of  jtrotcctiiii;  themselves,  an<l  hundreds  will  rush  to 
the  defence  of  a  ciiild  wlicre  a  ninu  would  pi-ohaMy  he  left  to 
his  own  unaided  exertions.  The  child  will  <;i'ow  to  he  an  adiill 
not  oidy  in  a))])c'arance,  but  in  reality,  hut  the  woman  must 
remain  a  woman,  unless  the  powers  beneath  unsex  her.  The 
Romans,  by  giving  her  equality,  thus,  in  truth,  render  her  less 
equal  than  before;  and  the  w<M'ld  had  sunk  to  one  level  of  mate- 
rialism and  selfishness  when  the  Christian  religion  sounded 
forth  the  novel  doctrine  that  the  weak  and  humble  were  more 
lionoi-al)le,  in  the  sight  of  the  Creator,  than  the  mighty  poten- 
tates of  earth.  To  attribute  a  considerable  amount  of  virtue  to 
the  bai'barians,  who  overran  the  emjiire,  has  been  a  favorite 
error.  Tlieir  disposition  to  blooil  and  violence,  and  theii" 
intense  sense  of  personal  independence  aiul  dignity,  prevented 
them  from  utterl3'yielding  to  the  (iel)aucheries  of  Rome,  but  they 
surely  evinced  little  ajipreciation  of  that  spirit  of  cliarity,  of 
gentleness,  of  forgiving  love,  which  it  was  the  ol>jecl  of  the 
Evangilc  to  preach.  This,  the  true  spirit  of  modern  civilization, 
is  due  solely  to  the  religion  of  our  Saviour.  Fortunately  for 
us,  the  tendency  of  the  thirtl  and  fourth  centuries  to  fritter 
away  its  essence  in  fruitless  discussions  altoirt  the  nature  of  the 
Divine  jiei-son,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  to  convci't  what  was 
given  us  as  a  consolation  here,  and  a  hope  hereafter,  into  a 
repulsive  system  of  tei-ror,  was  corrected  by  the  honors  paid  to 
the  Virgin,  each  rej)resenting  respectively  the  influences  that 
were  to  effect  the  salvation  of  the  race;  liie  one  threatening 
des|)air  and  endless  misery  to  the  wicked  ;  the  otlu'r  jjromising 
hope  and  measureless  bliss  to  the  virtuous.  For  this  purj)Ose  it 
matters  not  whether  the  Vii-gin  had  a  large  family,  or  whether 
she  were  not  simjyly  a  mortal,  or  whether  she  had  ever  existed. 
It  was  not  a  ([ucstion  of  fact  but  of  belief  Shrines  were 
erected  to  an  immaculate  being,  uncoutaminated  by  the  vices 
and  frailties  of  humanity,  yet  sympathizing  with  its  wants  and 
necessities;  a  being  of  ineffable  softness  and  love,  the  most 
powerful  intercessor  with  the  terrific  Judge,  who  was  justly 
incensed  against  ]lis  rebellious  creatui*es — and  this  being  was  a 
woman.      1  have  already  stated  that  tlu'  worship  of  the  Virgin 


INFLUENCE    OF    MOHAMMEDANISM.  259 

was  widely  diffused  throughout  Spain,  and  almost  peculiar  to 
that  countr}'^.  It  is  very  possible  that  the  mere  ceremonial, 
tho!  gaudilj^'-dressed  images,  the  processions,  the  wax  votos 
hung  up  at  her  shrine  were  imitated  after  Pagan  sources.  Hut 
those  wlio  go  further  and  compare  the  worship  itself  with  that 
of  Yenus  8alambo,  Diana  of  the  Ephesians,  or  Cybele,  are  as 
ignorant  of  the  history  of  civilization  as  of  religion.  The  fair- 
est of  the  daughters  of  Eve  on  earth,  she  was  considered  their 
pi-otectrcss  in  heaven,  ever  attentive  to  the  plaintive  cr}'  of  the 
afflicted  and  deserted.  The  impersonation  of  female  excellence 
and  pni'ity,  she  was  the  unapproachable  model  which  all  strove 
to  imitate.     The  names  of  half  the  girls  in  Andalusia  are  still 

derived   from  her  virtues  or  the  several  incidents  of  her  life 

Dolores,  Mercedes,  Rosario,  Concepcion  ;  and  the  memory  of 
their  guardian  is  constant!}'  kept  in  mind  by  the  custom  of 
celebrating  the  feast  of  their  baptismal  saint,  rather  than  the 
day  of  tlicir  birth. 

The  invasion  of  the  Mohammedans  exercised  also  a  powerful 
effect  upon  the  position  of  women  in  Spain  from  a  very  diller- 
ent  point.  The  Mohammedan  civilization  was  a  strange  mix- 
ture of  Jewish  and  Christian  precept,  engrafted  upon  a  stock 
which  we  are  disposed  to  consider  as  originally  and  cssentiallj- 
Oriental,  though  it  is  verj-  questionable  whether  the  qualities  and 
mannei's  that  we  consider  Oriental  were  not  for  the  most  part 
introduced  into  the  East  by  the  followers  of  the  prophet.  Bor- 
rowing the  spirit  of  ceremonial  observance  from  the  Jews;  from 
the  Christians  the  doctrine  of  universal  charitj^  and  liberality, 
and  alsf)  its  promise  of  a  future  Paradise  for  the  good;  from  his 
own  counti'vmen  the  manners  and  thoughts  of  every  dav  life 
he  concocted  a  system  which,  as  a  worldly-wise  scheme,  was 
certainly  a  great  improvement  upon  what  then  existed  in  a 
large  part  of  the  world.  One  striking  feature  of  the  Moham- 
medan civilization  was  the  jealousy-  with  which  women  were 
regarded  as  something  too  precious  to  be  looked  u|>on  with 
ordinary  eyes.  The  Moors  of  Andalusia,  owing  to  their  supe- 
riority in  war  and  the  brilliancy  of  their  intellectual  cultiva- 
tion, exercised  an  immense  influence  over  the  neigliboring 
Christian  nations,  and  were  themselves  essentiallv  im))ressed 
in  turn.  Kight  centuries  of  civil  and  military  rivalry  developed 
all  that  was  nol)le  and  generous  on  both  sides.  Much  greater 
freedom  was  allowed  to  the  Mohammedan  women  in  Andalusia 


200  Sl'AlN    AND    TlIK    Sl'ANIAUDS. 

than  in  tlio  East,  an<l  sonu-tliiiii:;  iiioro  was  (leiiiainled  tlian 
beauty.  Poetry,  music  ami  utlu'r  afc<)inj)lisliiueiits  are  as 
inuc-li  dwelt  upon  in  the  descrijitiDU  of  their  favorites  as  the 
charms  of  j>erson.  and  their  literary  women  till  no  small  space 
in  the  liio«;raj>hieal  dictionaries.  To  judge  of  the  relation  of 
the  sexes  in  Moorish  Spain  by  the  habits  of  the  Turks,  a  coarse 
Hensual  race,  or  by  those  of  their  fallen  brethren  in  the  Bai'bar}" 
States,  would  mislead.  The  a])pearance  of  women  in  general 
society  was  of  course  unknown,  but  they  bore  their  part  in 
domestic  entertainments.  Tin-  beauty  and  attractions  of  their 
Christian  captives  heightened  the  refined  education  of  the  Cor- 
dovese  Court,  and  j)ntdnce<l  in  the  men  an  elegance  and  respect- 
fulness of  intercourse,  and  a  purity  of  love  which  surprised 
their  contemporaries  (nit  ot"  the  Peninsula. 

The  position  of  women  in  Christian  Sjiain  was  suiijected, 
therefore,  to  four  very  ciitleicnl  inllueiices.  The  Teutonic  ele- 
ment from  the  Noi'th  would  reduce  them  to  the  level  of  our 
Indian  sipiaws,  the  servants  of  their  lords;  the  tendency  of  the 
Roman  was  toward  eiiualit}' ;  the  Moorish  made  lliem  the 
Centre  of  love  and  gulianlry  ;  the  worship  of  the  \'irgin  secured 
for  them  the  res|)eel  which  virtue  and  purity  are  ever  entitled 
to  comniaml.  Imagine,  now,  the  home  of  n  Christian  knight,  u 
Castro  or  an  O.sorio  in  some  fastness  of  Leon.  Far  from  the 
remains  of  ancient  cori'uption.  his  castle  lilts  its  battlements  in 
virtuous  solitude.  Instead  ol'  IVivolous  inti'igues,  his  whole 
ener^cy  is  devoted  Id  maintaining  (hr  sanctity  of  iiis  fireside 
an<l  the  honor  of  his  religion.  l>earing  alol'l  upon  his  banner 
the  image  of  the  spotless  Virgin,  he  and  his  followei-s  rush  into 
the  thickest  of  the  battle.  Pi'otected  by  her  guiding  hand, 
he  returns  crowned  with  laurels  and  enriched  with  the  spoils 
of  the  infidel,  and  al  lii.s  castle  gate  is  welcomed  by  the  com- 
panion of  his  life,  the  liunible  kin>\\oinaii  u])on  earth  of  her 
whose  ])owerful  protection  in  heaven  has  bi'ouglit  him  once 
more  safely  to  his  home.  The  combat  of  (Jarcilasso  and  the 
Moor,  i\)V  the  honor  of  the  Mother  of  tJod,  is  narrated  of  three 
ditterent  persons,  and,  doulilK'ss,  such  contests  in  Iut  bi'liall 
often  occurred.  Is  it  unnatural,  then,  that  some  jtortion  of  the 
adoration,  considered  so  Justly  due  to  the  one,  should  have 
been  bestowed  on  the  others  With  the  .Moors,  the  feeling 
toward  the  sex  was  i-ather  a  sj)ecies  of  gallantry,  which,  uniting 
in   the  Spaniard  with  the   other  and  nobler  sentiment,  formed 


UNDER    THE    BOURTiONS. — AT    MADRID.  2G1 

the  highest  type  of  tlie  cavalier.  The  Spaniavd  couhl  not  be 
said  to  love  his  mistress  ;  it  was  rather  a  \vorshi]i,  an  adoration 
as  of  a  goddess.  Xo  ini]Mire  tlioiiglits  entered  into  the  relation. 
A  chivalric  devotion,  and  an  almost  uneai'thl}'  respect  on  the 
one  side,  were  rewarded  with  a  love  and  tidelit}'  without  hounds 
on  the  other.  AVhoso  would  fully  appreciate  the  superiority  of 
Castillian  civilization  and  manners  in  this  connection,  let  him 
compare  life  as  portrayed  in  the  old  Spanish  ballads  with  that 
represented  in  the  licentious  Decameron  of  Italy,  the  Fabliaux 
and  the  songs  of  the  Troubadors  in  France,  or  the  Saxon 
grossness  of  Chaucer,  and  form  his  own  opinion. 

At  the  close  of  the  Moorish  wars,  with  the  capture  of  (iran- 
ada,  the  Spanish  dominion  began  to  extend  itself  over  the 
continent,  and  with  their  dominion  their  ideas.  For  a  century 
and  a  half,  not  only  was  the  Spaniard  feared  as  a  subject  of 
the  greatest  monarch  in  Europe,  but  what  is  more,  he  was 
respected  as  the  most  loyal  and  lofty  toned  oavalier,  and  the 
most  elegant  gentleman  in  the  civili/A'd  world.  Then  came 
the  reaction.  Piece  by  piece  was  lopped  off  from  the  deca3'ing 
empire.  The  race  of  he)-  wai'i-iors  became  extinct.  The  later 
Bourbons  Mere  surrounded  In'  men  whose  hereditary-  wealth 
and  honors  jilaced  them  above  the  necessity  of  exertion,  and 
whose  leisure  was  consumed  in  the  frivolous  pastimes  of  an 
imbecile  court,  at  which  they  were  compelled  to  reside.  The 
age  of  Louis  XY  of  France,  and  of  the  Georges  of  England, 
found  admirers  and  imitators  in  Sjiain.  Manly  occupations  fell 
into  disuse,  and  ceased  to  excite  even  respect.  P^ortune  was 
to  be  courted,  not  on  the  battle  field  amid  labor  and  danger, 
but  in  some  miserable  Palace  Camarilla.  Wliat  should  have 
been  an  amusement  of  leisure  hours  became  the  great  business 
of  life,  and  the  destinies  of  the  nation  were  wielded  b}-  the 
fashionalde  actress.  This  was  the  gay  circle  of  the  metropolis. 
Ladies  were,  fortunatel}-,  removed  from  its  vortex,  and  ])re- 
served  their  former  character  unspotted,  because  fashion  had 
rendered  another  class  the  centre  of  such  attractions.  So  that 
society  in  Madrid,  at  the  end  of  the  last  century,  astonished 
rather  by  its  absurdity  than  its  immorality.  The  conduct  of 
Ferdinand  YII,  after  his  restoration,  drove  the  liberal  party  to 
seek  sympathy  Ijcyond  the  borders  of  S|)ain.  and  thus  opened 
the  door  to  the  sensualism  and  materialism  of  the  French  rev- 
olution.     The   effect    upon    Madi'id    society  in    many  respects, 


262  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

partifularl\  in  loosoniiii;  the  hands,  luis  lieon  deploraltle.  It 
is  (iitticult  ioi*  llic  serious,  earnest  Spaniard  to  beeoine  a  mere 
Boulevard  trotter;  hut  the  youui;  men  are  dt)ini;  their  best, 
and  the  lierd  of  Polios  hid  fair,  in  time,  to  equal  the  kindred 
spirits  of  other  lands.  I  repeat,  however,  that  this,  in  the 
main,  is  contined  to  ^ladrid,  and  that  ;fentlemen  from  the 
proviiiees  pre.serve  very  much  the  eharacteristies  of  other  days. 
Their  iiitorcourse  with  the  I'airer  sex  is  marked  by  an  i.nthu- 
Biastie  devotion,  a  i^enuine  admiration,  aecomjniiiieil  by  an 
ahsenee  of  frivolity  and  a  forgetfulness  of  self,  which  ri'uder 
their  liuniility  an  acceptable  ottering  on  the  altar  of  bt-auty. 
AVoman  is  respected  by  them  because  she  is  woman.  Like  oui* 
own,  no  Spanish  jxentleman  would  hesitate  to  yield  her  the 
inside  of  tlic  walk,  or  the  best  seat  in  the  dilii^ence;  and  no 
Spanish  lady,  urdike  some  of  our  own,  would  nei^lect  to  ac- 
knowledjuje  even  this  ti'ifling  courtesy  by  a  smile  which  eould 
compensate  for  far  greater  sacrifices.  Books  of  travel,  founded 
uj)on  data  furnislied  by  the  scandal  of  the  c-ourt.  are  utterly 
'  uni'cliable,  an<l  such  a  method  of  judging  Spain  would  be  as 
unfair  as  the  course  pursued  by  eertain  strangers  in  putting 
ft)rwai-il  Washington  and  New  York  as  models  of  American 
manners  or  morals.  Yet  life  at  the  capital  has  not  been  en- 
tirely without  etiect  upon  the  nation.  The  Spanish  busbaiul 
of  the  nineteenth  century  is  not  the  e(pnd  ot'  him  of  the  six- 
teenth; antl  what  was  said  at  the  beginning  of  this  episode  is 
ti'ue,  that  thedi'cline  in  the  virtuous  tone  of  the  marriage  rela- 
tion, culminating  in  a  few  striking  instances  in  Madrid,  which 
have  been,  ignoi'antly,  considered  critirious  of  ."Spanish  .•society 
in  geiiei'al,  is  at ti'ibutable  pi'incipally  to  the  men. 

in  till'  estimate  J  have  given  of  Andalusian  society.  I  may 
be  mistaken.  Of  course,  there  ai-e  old  women,  and  ugly,  very 
ugly,  women,  and  disagreeable  women,  and  i'reipiently  disa- 
greeable men;  but,  upon  the  whole,  1  have  found  the  inter- 
coui'se  nH>st  |ileasanl.  The  opportunities  enjoyi-cl  by  a  travel- 
ler, and  his  means  of  lorniiiig  a  dispassionate  JudgmenL,  are 
naturally  limited.  Il  is  (lilliciili  \\>v  him  to  avoid  hasty  gen- 
eralizations from  a  fi-w  portraits  in  his  own  exiierienee.  It 
nniy  be  that  at  foi'ty.  and  iiniler  ditlerenl  cii'cumstances,  my 
own  conclusions  woiiM  have  been  otherwise,  and  tinith  compels 
me  to  state  that  I  have  seen  many  Fren<li  and  Knglish,  who 
have  long  resided  in  Andalusia,  and  whose  opinions  are  very 


FARKWKhL    TO    SKVILLK.  2(33 

different  from  those  wliicli  1  have  expressed.  The}"  coniphiin 
that  the  societ}'"  is  Avearisome,  though  they  admire  tlio  country. 
But  it  may  admit  of  a  question,  Avliether  these  two  nations  ai-e 
capable  of  a])preciatin<;-  the  peculiar  cliaracter  of  Spanish  ladies. 
The  earnestness,  the  enthusiasm  with  which  thej'  regard  every 
object  of  interest  are  not  suited  to  the  gay  and  tlioughtless 
gallantries  of  the  one,  or  the  heavy  phlegm  of  the  other.  The 
dream}'  (lerman  is  a  greater  favorite,  and  I  have  never  met 
one  of  that  race  who  was  not  satisfied  with  Spain  and  its 
inlialiitaiits.  Surely,  there  may  be  some  enjoyment  in  social 
intercourse,  though  it  consist  not  in  hadiiuu/e  iii  a  petit  soupi')- 
or  solid  conversation  around  a  smoking  joint  of  roast  beef 

The  summei"  had  now  passed  away,  and  the  houi'  ol'  dejiar- 
ture  was  approaching.  My  second  visit  to  Seville  liad  sped  like 
a  dream.  The  almanac  alone  served  to  mark  the  days  as  the}' 
flew  by.  Upoii  the  iirst  entry  it  is  natural  to  feel  some  disaj)- 
pointment  at  the  extci'nal  appearance  of  a  city  that  fills  the 
world  with  its  fame;  but  after  a  residence  of  sufficient  duration 
to  investigate  its  hidden  treasures,  to  appreciate  its  unostenta- 
tious life,  and  become  acquainted  with  its  delightful  society, 
most  strangers  will  agree  with  the  natives  in  exclaiming  : 

Quii'ii  no  b:i  visto  u  Sevilla 
No  ha  visto  uiaravilla. 

It  seems  as  if  nature,  exerting  her  utmost  powers,  had  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  ])aradise  where  beauty  an<l  ha]>piness  found 
an  eternal  abode.  It  was  difficult  to  feci  tliat  llie  time  had 
come  to  say  farewell,  as  i  took  my  last  walk  on  the  bunks  of 
tlie  (iuadahpiivir.  Its  placid  waters  were  resplendent  witii  the 
glories  of  the  sunrise,  as  they  had  been  morning  after  morning, 
to  be  succeeded  by  tlie  milder  beauties  of  a  cloudless  night. 
The  graceful  trees  would  continue  modestly  to  gaze  at  their 
image  in  its  mirror,  the  Cathedral  to  rear  its  noble  form  against 
the  azure  sky,  but  my  place  would  be  occupied  by  others,  wan- 
derers like  myself  Why  not  eat  of  the  lotos,  and  let  life  glide 
by  in  this  fairy  dream-land!''  Alas!  it  is  not  written  in  the 
book  of  fate  that  the  measure  of  human  felicity  should  be  filled 
upon  earth.  Perhai)s  Andalusia,  too,  lias  its  dark  side,  which 
a  ])rolonged  residence  would  bring  into  relief,  for  "Wo  viel 
Licht  ist,  da  giebt  es  starken  Schatten."  And  visions  of  home, 
of  sweet  home,  rise  before  rao.     Adieu  !  fair  Seville. 


Chapter  XV. 
C  O  K  I )  ()  V  A  . 

Journey — The  Astnrian — Foun<lation  of  the  Emriirc — Its  Glory — The  Bcni  Oincyah 
— (lovcrnmcnt — Subject  Christians  —  The  Alezi|uita  —  Sulise<|iicnt  History  — 
Az/.ahrn  —  Abil-er-Rahman  III  —  AlmanFour  —  Lanient.ttion  over  its  Full  — 
Dislinjruished  Men — Osius — Market — General  Ai)pearauce  of  the  City — Horses 
—The  Sehoolhoys— Moiitilla  Wine. 

The  iiioriiiiiif  was  spi'iit  in  biddinj^  adieu  to  tli()so  faiiy  scenes 
which  a  preseiitincnt  toKl  ine  I  was  never  to  hi-hold  ai^ain,  and, 
at  tliree  o'clock,  the  train  to  Cordova  was  ^lidiiii:;  witli  us  up 
the  river  h:nik.  One  hy  one  the  h)t"ty  edifices  disai)]ieared 
behind  the  hixuriant  ve<i;etation.  For  a  loni;-  time,  the  (iiialda 
continued  ah)ne  to  tower  over  the  i)hiiii.  It,  too,  at  leni^th 
faded  from  si<i;ht,  and  Seville,  the  glory  ami  marvil  of  Anda- 
lusia, was  gone. 

The  sun  was  intensely  bright,  ami  tlie  heat  corresponding. 
The  ail-,  near  the  parched  earth  of  the  hills,  danced  as  if  over  a 
cauldron.  On  its  mountain  cliff  to  the  east  glittered  tlu'  city 
of  Carmona,  its  long  white  walls  s]);irUling  like  the  Jewelletl 
crown  of  a  magician.  liliiminaled  by  the  rays  of  the  western 
sun,  it  continued  to  form  a  conspicuous  point  in  the  horizon 
until  we  reached  Lora.  .My  only  companion  in  the  carriage 
was  a  young  gentleman  ol'  (list inguislu'd  family  in  Cordoba, 
who  was  returning  from  the  watiM'ing  place  of  S:in  Lucar. 
The  seas(Ui  was  now  ovei-,  and  cvei-y  train  hore  the  visitors  hack 
to  their  winter  homes.  It  can  hardly  be  said  that  such  places 
are  resorted  to  ])y  .\  ndahisians  for  tlielii'nclil  of  their  licalth. 
In  this  climate  onr  long  catalogue  of  slow  diseases  is  scarcely 
known.  Consumptions,  rheumatisms,  dys])epsias,  rebellious 
livers,  have  no  ])lace,  and  even  wounds  (as  I  have  said)  heal 
with  proverltial  facilit}-  in  the  valley  of  I  lie  ( iiiadahpiivir,  which 
is  fortunate  where  the  knife  is  so  freipu'Mtly  «  alleil  into  action. 
Its    inlialiitanls    enjoy    I'obust,    vigorous    health    until    envious 


UP   THE    GUADALQUIVIR.  205 

Atropos  grasp.s  her  scissors,  when  some  violent  inflammatory 
affection  puts  an  end  to  their  existence  in  the  space  of  a  M'oek. 
Tluinholclt  mentions  some  conntry  in  Soutli  America  where  the 
popiihition  is  loni;-  lived, — no  one  ever  really  sick,  yet  no  one  ever 
i-eally  well.  Such  is  not  the  case  in  Andalusia.  Health,  both 
ph3-sical  and  mental,  is  the  normal  state,  and  the  longevity  of 
its  ])opulation,  particularly  in  favored  localities,  has  been  pro- 
verbial. The  climate,  too,  of  every  ])ortion  of  it,  except  about 
the  mouths  of  the  rivers,  is  endurable  throuo-hout  the  year. 
The  fashion,  however,  of  spending  July  and  August  at  some 
bathing  place  is  coming  into  vogue,  and  it  is  possible  that  in  a 
few  3'ears  they  will  imitate  the  remainder  of  mankind  in  rest- 
lessness. The  famous  Merino  sheep  (ti-ashiwurntes)  set  an  exam- 
])le  to  Euro])e  in  this  respect.  As  soon  as  the  warm  season  com- 
mences they  manifest  an  uneasiness,  and  will  sometimes  wander 
away  of  their  own  accord,  and  the  excellence  of  their  wool  is 
the  best  evidence  of  the  wisdom  of  these  summer  perei^rina- 
tions.  My  companion  was  full  of  the  ])leasant  incidents  of  the 
summer.  We  soon  passed  by  a  herd  of  bulls  growing  up  for 
some  future  contest.  This  changed  the  subject.  I  have  said 
before  that  3'ou  are  invariably  ashed  3'our  ojiinion  aliout  bull 
fights.  1  gave  mine  to  the  elTect  already  stated,  lie  was 
willing  to  com])romise  U'ith  my  horror  of  the  horse  killing, 
which  I  pronounced  unnecessarv  cruelty  toward  a  noble  aninuil 
that,  blindfolded  in  the  arena,  was  alike  unable  to  defend  itself 
or  to  escape.  To  this  he  could  make  no  satisfactor}-  reply,  and 
was  driven  to  excuse  it  upon  the  usual  ground  that  the  horses 
were  ver}'  old,  and  already  worn  out.  But  I  have  already 
given  the  pros  and  cons  of  the  argument,  and  refrain  from 
repetition  of  them.  lie  himself  had  at  times  appeared  in  the 
ring  on  some  special  occasions,  when  only  gentlemen  amateurs 
participate,  it  being  quite  the  fashion  among  the  young  gentry 
to  patronize  bull  fighters  and  bull  fights  as  the  true  national 
jiastime.  Finding  that  I  had  a  taste  for  tlie  amusement  highly 
creditable  to  an  outside  barbai'ian,  he  gave  me  several  wriidvles 
on  the  subject,  which  1  carefuil}'  treasured  up. 

We  ]iassed  leisurely  up  the  valle}'.  halting  a  considerable 
time  at  the  difterent  stations,  Palma.  with  its  lofty  church, 
Lora,  Pcfiaflor,  looking  gracefull}-  down  upon  the  ohl  Moorish 
mills  in  the  river,  the  castled  crag  of  Almodovai'  to  Coi'doba, 
where  I  parted  from  him,  placing  our  houses  mutually  at  each 


2C(>  Kl'AI.N    AM)    Till.    M'AMAUDS. 

other's  tiisposjil,  a  very  cln':i|)  |HMeee<liii<j:  oi»  iiiy  j)art.  I  was 
unrortuiiatoly  out  next  day  when  he  called,  so  tlial  our  ae- 
qiiaintaiit-e  ended  with  this  Spanisli  courtesy. 

The  Patio  of  the  F<»n(hi  was  cn»wile<l  when  I  arrived.  A 
sturdy  ohl  Asturian,  wh«)  serveil  mr  at  tahk',  cxprcsse*!  ^reat 
ConteiMpt  lor  the  cause  ol'  the  assonihhi^^e.  Some  |ierson  ofthe 
iiei^hhorhoiid  of  no  ^reat  rej>ute,  as  lie  said,  had  heen  aj)- 
pointed  to  a  hi<xh  post  under  the  {government,  and  was  (hi  his 
way  to  Ma«lrid  to  enter  upon  the  discharj^e  of  his  duties.  Jlis 
friends  ha<l  met  to  see  the  rising  sun  mount  the  heavens,  and 
perhaps  to  hasU  a  little  in  its  invi^oratin;::  rays.  In  Asturia 
he  was  sure  they  would  not  how  down  hefore  any  man.  Per- 
liu])s  not ;  hut  then  Asturia  must  he  dirt'erent  from  the  rest  of 
the  woi'ld.  I  fear  his  patriotism  overcame  the  impartiality  of 
his  judgment.  The  administrador  had  at  least  one  redeemiim 
thiiii;  ahout  him — a  very  «>;raceful  daui^htei" — and  that  made 
amends  for  a  i^reat  many  of  his  sins.  Tiie  party  soon  took 
their  leave  in  the  .Madrid  dilisfencc.  ami  we  wi're  left  to  our 
slumlxTs.  .Mini'  wt-rc  not  very  pleasant,  as  tiny  \ver»'  inler- 
rupteil  continually  diirini^  tin-  niifht  ly  the  entry  of  what 
seemed  to  he  an  ai'my  of  ctits,  who  chaunted  eveiy  species  of 
music,  fi-om  ih'-  (hijccl  notes  of  the  solitary  sereiiader  to  dis- 
cordant s(jualls  that  would  have  lieen  no  discredit  to  the  most 
ancient  married  coui»le  in  Christendom.  Tlu'  contents  of  the 
wash  hasin  had  ^reat  elfeet  in  restorini^  harmony  so  Ion*'  as 
the  ammunition  lasteil;  shoes  were  then  called  into  recpiisition. 
hut  the  enemy  appi-ared  to  have  a  jtarlicular  fancy  for  this 
skirmishing,  and  finally  ended  tlie  (•oiite>t  ly  postin:^  a  couple 
ol"  sentinels  t»n  the  window  sill,  wiiile  the  main  hody  took  up 
position  on  the  litili-  roof  hclow.  .V 1  ilayliL^ht  1  was  i;lad  to 
leave  tin-  field  to  llicm  ami  start  oil'  on  a  walk  around  the 
city. 

Corilova  has  liccn  a  city  of  note  from  tlu'  earliest  histoi'ic 
times.  Stralio  points  out  it  and  Cadiz  as  especially  woi'thy  of 
remark,  the  principal  inhahitants  of  (he  surroundin<j;  country 
heiiif^  attracted  to  it  on  account  of  the  chai-ms  of  its  situation. 
A  colony  of  patricians  from  Kome  ^ave  it  i'e|)Utation  in  the 
social  world,  and  devclojied  its  literary  genius  to  an  I'Xtent 
that  ast<niished  even  the  Mistress  of  the  Knipire.  I'ndt  r  the 
(lolhic  dominion  il  was  distin«^uished  only  in  ecclesiastical 
annals,  though  Almaktiri   enumerates  it  among  the  four  resi- 


TIIK    BENI    OMEYAII.  267 

donees  of  their  kiin;s.  13ut  Puuic,  Eoman  and  GothieCoi-dovu 
arc  known  only  through  history.  For  the  traveller  it  dates 
from  the  time  of  the  Beni  Omeyah,  who  made  it  their  sole 
ca])ital,  and  the  i>;reat  eentre  whence  learning  and  eivilization 
weiv  dilTused  over  AYestei-n  Europe.  Ahd-er-Eahnian,  the  first 
of  the  name,  after  a  thousand  haii'-hreadth  escapes  by  flood  and 
field,  having  been  invited  by  a  portion  of  the  Andalusian  Arabs 
to  assume  the  caliphate  in  Spain — and  thus  relieve  them  from 
the  satraps  of  Daniascu.s  and  the  anarch}'  under  which  they 
had  suffered  for  half  a  century — landed  in  the  year  756  at 
Almunecar  on  the  coast  of  Granada,  and,  after  many  long  years 
of  civil  war,  succeeded  in  crushing  all  opponents  and  tirmlj'^ 
establishing  himself  in  Andalusia.  The  horrible  manner  in 
Avhieh  his  family,  with  this  solitary  exception,  were  extin- 
guished by  Asseffah.  has  secured  for  them  a  larger  i)ortion  of 
historic  sympath}'  than  the}"  could  ])erhaps  justly  claim;  and  it 
may  be  safely  said  that  no  one  would  have  thought  them 
worthy  of  continuing  to  reign  had  not  this,  their  last  hoj)e, 
caused  the  power,  which  had  set  in  the  east,  to  rise  .so  glo- 
riously again  in  the  west,  and  thus  redeemed  the  honor  of  his 
family.  I  know  no  other  royal  family  which  produced  so 
many  estimable  individuals,  or  which  has  disj)layed  such  indis- 
putable talents  for  govei-ning,  as  the  Beni  Omeyah  of  Spain. 
Three  of  them  of  the  same  name — Abd-er-Rahman — were  en- 
dowed with  nearl}'  every  vii'tue  one  could  desire  in  a  sovereign. 
Courage  and  skill  in  war,  sincere  religion,  patriotism  and  a 
refined  taste  for  the  elegant  arts  and  for  literature,  have  placed 
them  in  the  front  rank  of  princes.  To  them  should  be  added 
Al  Mansour,  who  may  properly  bo  considered  of  the  dynasty, 
though  not  descended  from  them  by  blood.  Under  the  wise 
rule  of  those  sovereigns,  Andalusia  became  tiie  first  country  in 
ihe  civilized  world.  Mohammedan  historians  and  travellers 
found  their  copious  language  scarcely  adequate  to  the  descrip- 
tion of  its  marvels.  The  banks  of  the  Guadahpiivir  wi're 
lined  with  stately  palaces  a  distance  of  f(»ur  juid  twenty  miles, 
and  the  wanderer  from  Bagdad  could  saunter  along  ten  miles 
of  artificial  lights,  at  a  time  when  Paris  and  L'tndon  were  mis- 
erable collections  of  hovels  and  ndry  iancs.  lA'arned  doctors 
and  elegant  jtoets  erowdecl  to  it  from  every  quart  cm*  of  the  east. 
Its  schools  of  ])hilosophy  and  medicine  attracted  students  from 
all  Christian  Europe,  who,  returning,  introduced  a  taste  for  the 


2GS  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

loni;  f<»r<;otton  litoratiiro  of  (lu»  (Jrooks.  and  for  the  toachini;  of 
tho  i;rcal  master  who  no  loui^  lirld  Kur«)])o  in  hondairc.  The 
njil'l  luit  firm  f^ovornmont  of  tho  Heni  Onu'vali  socurcd  trun- 
(|(iility  at  liomo  and  res]>ec't  abroad.  Three  Imndrcd  thousand 
rosneciahh'  residences  and  eighty  thousand  shops  in  Cordova 
ahme  attested  the  excellence  of  a  government  which  could 
attract  and  maintain  such  a  population.  Nor  were  these  ma- 
terial benefits  the  only  jewels  of  their  diadem.  Justice  and 
religious  tolerance  supported  their  throne,  and  rendered  their 
rule  more  tolerable  to  the  subject  Christian  ]ti)pulalioii  than  the 
persecutions  of  their  own  brethren  of  the  faith  in  othei'  lands. 
It  is  a  striking  testimony  to  their  wisdom,  that  the  .Moham- 
medan rulers  were  seldom,  if  ever,  disturbed  by  insurrection 
among  the  subject  Christians  at  home.  All,  of  whatever  re- 
ligion, enjoyed  a  certain  limited  amount  of  freedom,  faithfully 
secured,  and  persecution  for  opinion's  sake  was  almost  un- 
known. The  followers  of  the  Prophet,  with  a  profound  insight 
into  the  ])Iiilosopliy  of  mankind,  distinguished  those  who 
thought  this  world  the  be-all  and  end-all  of  humanity,  and 
the  earth  sutficieiit  unto  itself,  iVmn  those  who,  clinging  to 
a  highei'.  nobler  being  to  rescue  tiiem  from  the  al>asement  of 
materialism,  rested  their  faith  iiiioii  a  divine  revelation  —  the 
Christian.  Jews  and  .Magiaiis.  I'or  the  former  was  death,  for 
the  latter  ])eace  and  ])rote(lioii,  u])on  condition  of  trihute. 
Hermits  and  others  of  holy  lile  w^tc  sineei'ely  respected,  as 
j)erforming  the  pre<'i'pts  of  the  .Mohammedan  I'eligioii.  although 
devoid  of  the  tiMie  faith.  \Vi-  are  all  familiar  with  the  Palace 
of  ("hosroes  and  the  windmill  of  I'otsilani.  but  though  these 
instances  of  self-restraint  on  the  jtai't  of  great  soveivigns  are 
in  the  highest  degree  creditable,  they  do  not  e<pial  a  some- 
what similai'  <»M('  i-elate<l  of  Abd-er-Kahinnii  I.  After  the  con- 
(piest  of  Cordova  by  the  Mohamnu'(lans.  the  pi'iiicipal  church 
had  been  <livid('d  in  two  jioitions.  one  for  the  Mohammedan 
fail!),  the  other  for  the  Christians.  This  arrangement  con- 
tinued to  be  satisfactory  until  Cordoba  became  the  capital,  and 
the  increased  nnnibci"  of  the  faithful  i'e(piired  an  t'ldargement 
of  the  moscpie.  For  a  long  time  the  Christians  obstinately 
refused  to  sell  their  portion,  and  the  negotiation  was  about  to 
be  broken  off,  when  they  finally  agreed  to  accept  the  enoi-mous 
sum  of  one  hundred  thousand  dinars  and  the  ])rivilege  of  erect- 
ing  a  new   church   entirely   dedicated   to  their  own    worship. 


MOHAMMEDAN    (iOVERNMENT.  2G9 

This  last  conditioii  was  particularly  ditlicuU  to  grant,  as  the 
Mohaiiunedaii  jiolicy  was  to  allow  existiiii:;  chui'ches  to  remain, 
but  on  no  account  to  permit  the  erection  of  others.  The 
Chi'istians,  however,  were  inexoral)le,  and  carried  their  point. 
The  wIkjIc  church  was  pulled  down,  and  upon  its  i'()undation 
erected  the  niagniticent  Mosque  which  is  still  the  wonder  of 
Moorish  iSpain.  When  we  reflect  that  this  occurred  not  a  cen- 
tury after  the  conquest,  and  that  the  ([uestion  was  one  of 
religion  between  opposing  ci-eeds,  the  justice  and  self  control  of 
the  Cordovan  Kmir  will  a]>pear  in  a  brighter  light  than  his 
better  known  rivals,  Frederic  and  Chosroes.  Such  instances  of 
respect  for  private  rights  were  frequent  at  Cordoba.  At  a  sub- 
sequent date  the  Hagib  Al  Mansour,  wishing  to  enlarge  the 
mosque,  summoned  the  owners  of  the  adjoining  houses  to 
place  what  value  the}'  jileased  u])on  their  property  and  yield  it 
to  the  j)ublic.  which  they  all  did  with  the  exce})tion  of  one  old 
woman  who  refused  })ositively,  unless  another  house  were  pro- 
cured lor  her  with  a  palm  tree  exactly  like  the  one  in  hei'  yard. 
After  much  ditliculty.  a  house  and  ])ahn  tree,  answering  the 
desei-ijUion,  were  purchased  at  an  exorbitant  ])rice,  and  the  good 
woman's  torn  down. 

The  government  established  by  the  Mohammedans  in  Spain 
was  purely  military^  for  they  seem  to  have  had  no  disposition 
to  i)ropagate  their  faith  or  to  punish  dissenters.  The  tax  upon 
intidels  amounted  generalh'  to  a  tilth.  They  were  not  allowed 
to  prevent  persons  changing  their  faith,  and  were  confined  in 
the  celebration  of  their  observances  to  the  interior  of  their 
churches;  otherwise  they  lived  without  ai)i)rehensiun  of  inter- 
ference and  in  full  enjoyment  of  their  ])roperty.  Mohamme- 
dans have  a  profound  horror  of  the  worship  of  images,  yet  the 
sanctity  of  the  Christian  churches  was  nevei-  violated  tliei'efor. 
They  contented  themselves  with  Ijeing  the  jtolitical  and  mili- 
tary aristocracy,  leaving  commerce  and  agriculture  open  to  a 
fair  competition,  and  allowing  each  jiatitni  to  be  judged  by  its 
own  laws  and  officers.  Whatever  relics  of  slavery  might  have 
survived  the  fall  of  the  eiii])ire,  or  been  introduced  by  the 
(ioths,  disa])iieared.  Jt  was,  thenceforth,  confined  to  ca]»tives 
in  war.  (,'onversion  to  the  faith  worked  of  itself  a  manumis- 
sion, and  as  slavery  was  confined  to  dcnuestic  servitude,  tlic 
freedman  frequenth'  attained  the  highest  ])osition  in  the  confi- 
dence of' his  former  master.     It  is  no  wonder,  therefore,  that 


liTO  SPAIN     AM»    TIIK    Sl'AXIAHDS. 

tlif  Kuhjcot  ('l»risti:»iis  of  the  common  class  wero  contciiled 
with  n  lot  far  hettcr  tl»an  they  wouhl  have  enjoyed  in  any 
Christian  count rv  of  Kurojie. 

Ab<l-er-liahnian  1.  thi-  Knterer.  as  lie  is  called,  was  of  a  mel- 
ancholy teni])erami'nl,  and  in  this  I'espect  his  history  has  al- 
ways recalled  to  nu-  Charles  V  and  Sertorius,  whom  ho  rescm- 
hled  in  artistic  and  literary  taste,  as  well  as  in  deep  poetic 
feeling  and  high  talent  as  a  ruler.  Plutarch  mentions  that 
when  Sertorius  was  on  the  point  of  recommencing  the  struggle 
in  Spain,  ho  encountered,  at  the  mouth  of  the  (iuadali|iiivir, 
8ome  mariners  just  returning  froni  the  Fortunate  Isles,  with 
glowing  accounts  of  the  peaceful  delights  of  that  favore<l  spot, 
far  removed  from  the  clash  of  re-sounding  arms,  and  the  vain 
sti'ugglcs  and  toils  of  earthl}' greatness ;  and  that  the  hero  long 
hesitated  whether  he  should  not  forsweai-  the  world  and  its 
deceitful  pleasures  for  happy  obscurity  in  the  Atlantic  waste. 
So  it  is  narrated  of  Ahd-er-JJahman.  that  once  in  Seville,  or,  as 
others  say,  in  his  garden,  iiissafah.  near  Cordova,  the  sight  of  a 
solitary  palm,  iilie  himst'if  a  strangei-,  caused  him  to  utter  a 
pathetic  lament,  which  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth  through- 
out Andalusia,  and  has  reachetl  our  day.  The  most  exalted 
genius,  such  as  tliat  of  Najioleon  or  Ca'sar,  however  much  it 
may  arouse  our  admiration,  can  never  attract  us  as  does  the 
sonsihility  of  the  heart,  which,  suddenly  overpowering  the 
great  man,  renders  him  once  moi-e  to  tlie  purity  and  innocence 
and  even  the  weakness  (jf  childhood.  All  can  esteem  and  covet 
earthi}'  distinctions,  and  the  foehlest  are  willing  to  sti'uggle  ibr 
their  possession.  Imt  the  truly  great  alone  can  appreciate  them 
at  their  real  value,  and  voluntarily  renountn'  tlu'ir  phantom 
delights,  it  is  fortunati'  lor  mankind  that  many  can  admire, 
though  few  may  imitate,  the  great  Kmperor  Charh'S  in  ex- 
changing the  cr(nvn  of  the  world  and  the  a<loi'ing  incense  of 
millions,  for  the  quiet  of  a  secluded  convent  in  the  mountains 
of  Kstremadura. 

Meditating  upon  the  character  of  tlu'  Arahian  I'jnii-.  1  reac'hed 
the  great  mo.sque  whose  foumlation  In  had  laid.  It;-  outside 
gives  the  traveller  no  warning  of  the  beauties  within.  It  pre- 
sents simi>ly  a  blank  castellated  wall,  some  forty  feet  in  height, 
with  scarcely  any  ornamentation.  Hut  entei-ing  the  Ptttio  de 
Ion  X(U'(niJos^  or  Orange  (Jourt,  you  are  immediately  translated 
to   the    East.      Fountains    and  orange    trees,    with    scattering 


TTIT'^    ^MKZQITTA.  271 

palms;  a  solitary  water  carrier  tilling  his  cask;  a  coiqiie  of 
priests  promenading  in  front  of  the  edifice;  a  few  closely  en- 
veloped females,  hurrying  to  early  mass,  might  make  you  s* op 
to  reflect  whether  it  be  not  really  Damascus  or  .lerusalem, 
I'alher  than  Christian  Andalusia.  Tlie  nineteen  entrances  that 
formerly  adorned  the  front  of  the  mosque  are  closed,  except 
one,  by  whicii  you  enter  into  a  fairy  scene  of  the  days  of 
Haroun  al  Rashid.  On  every  side  extends  a  forest  of  columns, 
faintly  illumiiuited  by  the  early  light  struggling  in.  The  deep 
silence  which  reigns  around ;  the  long  vistas  with  graceful 
arches;  the  ajiparent  solitude  of  the  place,  recalled  the  ])ine 
forest  at  sunset.  To  describe  such  a  structure  is  difficult,  as  I 
have  always  found  to  be  the  case  in  the  architecture  of  the 
Moors.  It  is  not  intended  to  effect  one  grand  distinct  impres- 
sion, as  that  of  the  ancient  Cxreek  or  the  Gothic,  but  the  aim 
of  the  artist  seems  rather  to  produce  the  confusion,  the  bewil- 
derment of  perception  which  causes  the  soul  to  sink  into  a 
dreamy  forgetfulness  of  all  that  lies  witliout  the  enchanted 
walls,  and  is  accomplished  partly  by  a  minuteness  of  detail 
which  defies  investigation.  Having  seen  it  once  before  and 
retained  a  very  vivid  im])ression  of  it  in  my  niemor}-,  1  con- 
cluded that  a  guide  would  be  unnecessary,  but  I  soon  became 
convinced  that  the  effect  was  of  the  indistinct  character  I  have 
mentioned,  and  even  now.  after  having  again  gone  over  it  care- 
fully with  a  guide.  I  am  convinced  that  I  shouM  not  be  al»le  to 
draw  a  reasonably  correct  plan.  It  is  an  involuntary  tribute 
to  the  success  of  the  artist.  Even  in  its  present  condition  the 
mosque  is  an  object  of  unfeigned  admiration  to  the  world. 
What  nmst  it  have  been  in  its  glory  ?  The  accounts  differ  as  to 
the  number  of  columns;  soine  place  it  as  high  as  fourteen  hun- 
dred. Nineteen  longitudinal  and  eight  and  thirty  lateral  aisles 
were  resjilcndent  with  ten  thousand  lamps  and  more  than  two 
hundred  chandeliers  of  exquisite  workmanship.  Wax  and  oil 
lights  alternated  with  varying  effect.  Golden  doors  contrasted 
with  a  pavement  of  marble,  mosaic,  and  even  silver.  Every 
successive  sovereign  sought  his  highest  glory  in  adding  to  its 
magnificence;  but  it  was  reserved  f(»r  the  famous  llagib  Al  Man- 
sour  to  ])erform  the  work  most  aece])table  to  the  worshippers 
of  the  I'liqihet.  Kctui-ning  from  the  celebrated  expedition  in 
which  he  had  ravaged  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  Peninsula, 
and  reduced  the  rising  kingdoms  of  Leon  and  Navarre  to  tiie 


272  SPAIN  .\M>  TiiK  si'AM.vnns. 

verge  ol'  annihilation,  he  eaused  (he  hells  of  the  chiireh  of  St. 
Jago  de  ('onipostella  to  he  transj)()rte(l  ii])on  the  hacks  of  his 
captives  to  Cordova,  and  there  hum;  up  to  tlie  glory  of  the  One 
God,  and  to  the  confusion  of  all  Trinitai"ians.  Vast  throngs  of 
Christians  ha<l  heen  hrought  to  work  in  the  eontemplated 
cnlargi'inent  of  the  mosque,  a  s|)eetaele  ]>eculiarly  edifying  to 
the  tnu"  helii'vers.  and  meritorious  on  the  jiart  of  their  gen- 
eral. It  is  a  rt'murkahle  feature  in  the  edifice  that  most  of 
the  columns  are  taken  from  ancient  ruins,  and  placed  witliout 
the  slightest  regard  to  the  order  of  architecture  to  which  they 
originally  helonged  ;  IhiI  this  anoiiialy  has  no  influence  upon 
the  general  effect  ot"  the  m(js(pie,  ami  would  eseape  the  notice 
of  a  casual  visitor. 

The  ("iiristian  choir,  oi- i-atlirr  cliurcli.  luiilt  in  liic  centre  of 
the  Mez(iuita,  after  the  conquest,  has  hecn  universally  con- 
demned, and  does  sadly  mar  the  integi-ity  and  uniformity  of 
tiie  Moorish  plan.  In  itself  it  is  very  heautifid,  hut  emphati- 
cally the  right  thing  in  the  wrong  j>lace.  The  Ayuntamii'nto, 
or  city  council,  is  said  to  have  protested  against  the  right  of 
the  chapter  to  make  the  alteration,  and  to  havi'  ai)pealed  to 
the  Kmpei'or  Charles,  who,  niisapprehemling  the  circumstan- 
ces, declini'd  iiitrrli-ring.  and  tlir  saci-ilege  was  effected.  The 
Mohainme<lan  mos<pu'  airhilecture  is  essentially  defective  in 
the  ahsence  of  sonu'  one  central  point  (»f  artistic-  inteirsl,  the 
Kitdah  answering  that  purpose  indirteri'nt  ly.  Hul  this  though, 
in  reality,  a  defect,  is  an  essential  pai't  of  the  idea,  and  the 
entire  scheiiu'  would  he  lalsified,  were  tlu*  halHed  spii-it  of  the 
beholder  to  tin<l  a  ri'sting  place.  Nothing,  therefoi'c,  could  lie 
more  unfortunate  and  inharmoniotis  than  this  atldition.  The 
early  Spanish  I'econtpu-rors  were  not  animated  hy  the  rage  for 
change  and  iiiiprovcnicnl  wliicli  seems  lo  lia\e  come  ovei*  their 
descendants,  under  the  influence  of  the  i-enaissance.  Jt  must 
he  said,  too,  that  so  long  as  the  Moors  retained  a  footing  in  the 
country  they  were  respected  and  their  works  |)reserved  and 
imitated,  hut  so  soon  as  tlu'  last  stronghold  surrendered,  they 
fell  into  contemj)t,  were  styleil  .Moriseos.  and  any  show  of 
appreciation  for  the  evidiMices  of  their  past  powcT  and  genius 
Huhjected  the  utifortunate  [)erson  to  the  sus]>icion  of  the  merci- 
less Intpusition.  Though  this  pre)(nlico  has  disappeared  from 
the  eidightencMl  classes,  it  still  lingei's  among  the  ignorant. 
But  the  government  has  become  alive  to  the  necessity  of  pre- 


VIKW    FROM    THE    TOWER.  273 

serving  what  yet  remains.  The  gem  of  tlie  whole  Mezqnita  is 
the  little  octagon  Chapel  del  Zancarron,  formerly  the  sanctu- 
ary where  was  deposited  the  Koran,  which  is  perfection  itself, 
and  has  undergone  little  or  no  alteration  The  scenes  around 
had  completely  carried  me  back  to  the  days  of  the  turl)an  and 
the  lance;  nothing  could  be  further  from  my  thought  than 
religion  in  an}'  shape,  and  I  had  even  forgotten  that  avc  were 
in  a  cliurc'h,  when,  descending  the  steps  of  the  chapel,  1  saw  a 
young  lady  stop  and  kneel  at  one  of  the  side  altars.  She  was 
dressed  in  the  Andalusian  costume,  and  her  face  a  perfect  typO' 
of  Andalusian  beaut}'.  Crossing  her  hands,  she  gazed  uponi 
the  altar  piece  with  uplifted  eyes,  that  beamed  forth  a  devo- 
tion, unconscious  of  all  around.  How  I  envied  her  that  period 
of  prayer.  AVhat  earthly  delight  could  compare  with  the  ec- 
static purit}'  of  this  communion  in  spirit  with  her  Creator;  and 
happy  the  soul  in  purgatory  for  whom  it  was  offered.  I  re- 
mained in  my  place  until  her  devotions  were  concluded,  and 
she,  with  the  duenna,  had  disappeared  from  sight  amid  the 
thousand  columns.  She  had  not  even  seen  me,  but  Andalusian 
beauty  has  the  effect  of  some  tropical  diseases — one  severe 
attack  undermines  the  constitution,  rendering  it  incapable  of 
resisting  tlie  slightest  exposure,  and  a  long  absence  in  the 
chilly  atmos])here  of  the  north  becomes  absolutely  necessary 
to  restore  the  sj'stem  to  its  previous  inscMisibility. 

Leaving  the  body  of  the  mosque,  I  crossed  the  Orange 
Court,  and  ascended  the  lofty  tower  built  somewhat  after  the 
style  of  the  Giralda  at  Seville,  but  by  no  means  so  elegant. 
The  general  features  of  the  view  I  have  given  already.  To 
the  west,  rose  abruptly  the  advanced  ridge  of  the  Sien-a  Mo- 
rena,  its  man}^  farm  houses,  villas  and  deserted  hermitages, 
sparkling  in  the  morning  sun;  to  the  east,  the  undulating 
table  land,  which  stretched  away  to  the  Genii;  between  them 
flows  the  shining  Guadalquivir,  with  its  broad  and  fertile  val- 
ley. The  white  castle  of  Almodovar  stood  like  a  senlry  to 
guard  the  passage  to  Seville.  Well  might  Strabo  speak  of  the 
charms  of  the  situation.  The  accounts  of  the  Moorish  histori- 
ans, corroborated  l»y  the  reports  of  the  ambassadors,  who  were 
sent  thither  from  time  to  time  by  the  Christian  potentates, 
leave  no  room  for  douljting  that  this  now  comjtarativel}'  de- 
serted plain  was  once  covered  M'ith  every  evidence  of  an  unex- 
ampled material  and  intellectujil  civilization,  of  which  scarcely 
19 


274  SI'AIN    .\M>    Tin;    SI'AMAUDS. 

a  tract?  is  k-fL.  What,  however,  surjirises  most  is  tlie  total 
(lisapnearance  of  tlie  former  city  of  Azzahira.  Uiulor  the  sixth 
Siihaii  of  the  Beni  Omeyah,  Alxl-er-Raliman  II.  the  C'onlovese 
empire  attained  its  acme  of  s|»k'n<lor.  Tlu'  mimorous  victories 
of  this  sultun  procured  for  him  the  title  of  Aimasii-  Lediu 
Alhih,  or  Hefeiider  of  tlie  Kaith,  aii<l  he  first  assumed  the  title 
of  Hmir  Al  Mumeiiin,  or  Prinee  of  the  Faithful,  which  none  of 
his  predecessors  had  ventured  to  do,  contenting  themsolves 
with  the  earthly  power,  and  leavini^  the  calii)hate,  or  lieuten- 
ancv  of  (iod,  to  their  rivals  on  the  hank  of  the  Tigris.  A  suc- 
cessful reign  of  lifty  years  largely  increased  his  dominion  and 
filled  his  coffers  with  enormous  treasures.  A  considerahle  por- 
tion of  Africa  acknowledged  his  swa}'.  His  yearly  revenues 
amounted  to  five  million  four  hundred  and  eighty  thousand 
gold  dinars,  from  the  taxes  authorizetl  hy  the  Koran  and  the 
Sunnuh;  seven  hundred  and  sixty-five  thousand  from  the  tax 
on  markets  and  (Mher  illegal  exactions;  then  came  one-fiflh  of 
the  spoil  taken  from  the  enemy,  and,  in  addition  to  the  whole, 
was  the  capitation  tax  ui»()n  Cliristiaiis  and  .Icw-^.  which 
equalled  all  the  rest.  \\"\{\\  this  immense  amount  at  his  ilis- 
posal  he  was  enahled  to  gratify  his  hereditary  taste  for  liuild- 
in"".  Am(»ug  the  various  structui'cs  iTcctcd  liy  him.  tlie  most 
celebratetl  was  the  palace  of  A/.zahra,  whose  very  site  can  no 
hunger  he  pointed  out.  That  it  lay  hetween  C'oi-dova  and  the 
iiioiiiitains,  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  i'miiieiice,  is  all  we  know.  It 
is  said  to  have  owed  its  origin  to  his  desii-c  to  gi-atify  the 
favorite  sultana  of  that  iianic  which,  in  the  Aral)ic  tongue, 
.siiinilics  "flower,"  and  is  still  preserved  in  Sjianish  for  the 
hloom  of  the  orange  tree.  Authors  vied  in  their  descriptions 
of  its  marvellous  heauty ;  and  [lerhaps  ilir  most  conclusive  evi- 
dence of  its  supereminence  is  the  fact  that  they  (Iwcll  little 
ujion  the  charms  of  tlu'  .\lliamhra,  which  yet  is  llie  wonder 
and  admiiation  of  our  day.  Ten  thousand  workmen  and 
fifteen  hundred  camels  were  daily  emjiloyed  in  its  erection. 
Four  thousand  thnn'  hundred  and  sixteen  columns  of  green 
and  i-ose  colored  marMe  supported  its  roof'j  sonu-  tVoni  Ivome; 
some  from  the  country  of  the  Franks;  some  presented  by  the 
Emperor  ol'  Constantinople;  some  from  Africa,  and  the  rest 
from  .\^llalu^ia.  Two  ex<|uisite  fountains,  tlii'  one  of  gilt 
bronze,  the  other  ofgi'cen  niai'liK-,  astonished  the  beholder.  In 
the  centre  of  the  larger  of  the  two  fioated  a  golden  swan,  made 


ABD-ER-RAIIMAN    II.  275 

in  Constantinople,  above  Avhieh  hung  suspended  the  famous 
pearl  presented  by  the  Emperor  Leo.  J3ut  the  wonder  of  all 
was  the  Hall  of  the  Caliphs,  whose  roof  was  of  solid  gold  and 
silver,  and  whose  doors  of  ivory  and  ebon}",  ornamented  with 
precious  stones,  rested  upon  pillars  of  transparent  crystal.  In 
the  centre  Avas  a  huge  basin,  filled  with  quicksilver,  the  light 
from  whose  surface  wlien  in  motion  was  sulficiont  to  blind  the 
incautious.  It  was  here  that  he  received  the  ambassadors  of 
the  various  Christian  i)rinces  wlio  sought  his  alliance  or  his 
mediation.  Nor  was  the  mosque  unworthy  of  the  I'cst  of  the 
palace;  though  inferior  in  si/<e  to  that  of  Cordova,  it  was 
considered  even  more  beautiful.  The  grounds,  including  the 
neighboring  mountain,  were  covered  with  every  species  of 
fruit  and  flower  that  could  gratify  the  eye  or  please  the  palate; 
and  if  nothing  had  remained  but  the  terrace  of  black  marble, 
travellers  would  have  had  no  reason  to  depart  unsatisfied. 
Men  of  all  ranks,  professions  and  religions,  came  from  afar  to 
behold  this  wonder  of  the  earth.  It  was  the  Versailles  of  its 
da\'.  In  the  latter  portion  of  his  life,  Abd-er-Rahman  resided 
here  exclusively,  and  the  court  and  the  famous  bod^'-guard  of 
twelve  thousand  slaves,  Zenctes  and  Andalusians,  found  ample 
room  for  their  accommodation.  Yet,  the  possessor  of  all  this, 
in  melancholy  acknowledgment  of  the  truth  that  "all  is  van- 
ity," wrote,  in  the  secrecy  of  his  cabinet,  for  those  who  might 
read  after  his  death:  "I  have  reigned  fifty  years,  and  my 
reign  has  always  been  peaceful  or  victorious.  Loved  by 
my  subjects,  feared  bj-  my  enemies,  respected  by  m}-  allies 
and  by  the  greatest  princes  of  the  earth,  riches  and  honor, 
power  and  ])ieasure,  all  were  at  my  command.  No  earthlj'- 
blessing  was  denied  me.  1  have  carefully  counted  the  days  in 
which  I  have  enjoyed  unalloyed  happiness.  I  have  found  but 
fourteen."  Gibbon  had  the  bad  taste  to  institute  a  comparison 
between  himself  and  the  sovereign  of  .Spain,  and  to  proclaim 
to  the  gratified  world  that  he  had  enjo^-ed  more  than  fourteen 
such  in  the  composition  of  his  history  alone.  Alas  I  how  few 
there  are  wlio  comjtrehend  grandeur  of  the  soul  I  With  more 
dignity  does  Almakari  exclaim:  '-Oh,  man  of  understanding ! 
wonder  and  behold  the  small  portion  of  real  happiness  the 
world  affords  even  in  the  most  enviable  position.  The  Caliph 
Annasir,  whose  jjrosperity  in  mundane  affairs,  and  whose 
Avidcly  spread  empire   became  proverbial,  had  only  fourteen 


270  SPAIN     AND    THK    SPANIARI»S. 

(lays  of  nii«listnrl>o<l  onjoynuMit  during  a  reign  of  fifty  years, 
seven  months,  and  tliree  days.  Praise  be  given  to  lli'n,  tlie 
Lord  of  eternal  glor}'  and  everlasting  empire  I  There  is  no 
God  Imt  one!  the  Almighty,  the  (Jiver  of  empire  to  whomso- 
ever He  pleases  I" 

His  son  and  successor.  Alhakem,  sustained  the  glory  of  the 
empire  undiminished.  During  his  reign,  the  Northmen  or  Nor- 
mans, now  in  the  height  of  their  power  (A.  D.  0(55),  landed  in 
the  Peninsula.  Tlie  caliph  hastened  to  the  Court,  ordering  his 
admiral  to  fit  out  the  fleet;  hut  it  was  unnecessary,  as  the  in- 
vaders were  defeatcil  and  repulsed  at  every  point.  This  was 
the  second  attempt  of  the  kind  that  had  heen  made,  and  the 
result  is  the  best  evidence  of  the  comparative  ]>ower  of  the 
Cordovese  empire  Alhakt'ia  cxcclli'd  all  his  pivdeeessoi's  in 
his  taste  for  learning.  He  had  standing  agencies  throughout 
the  world  to  procure  for  him  rare  and  valuahle  Ixxtks,  regard- 
less of  cost.  Tin-  i)alacc  library  coiitainrd  such  an  immense 
collection,  that  the  catalogue  itself  occupied  forty-four  volumes. 
Besides  that,  he  himself  wrote  a  voluminous  history  of  An<la- 
lusia,  which  was  highly  praised  for  a  merit  very  rare  among 
Arabic  historians. — sound  criticism, — .^o  that  whatever  he  rela- 
ted was  considered  true.  Unlike  most  literary  rulers,  his  \)i\s- 
sion  for  literature  and  science  involved  no  neglect  of  the  more 
serious  duties  of  statesmanship,  and  Spain  was  never  so  happ}' 
as  under  the  government  of  the  just  and  enlightened  Alhakem. 

His  successor,  Hisham,  was  a  true  roi  fdincdnt,  but  beside  him 
stood  one  of  the  most  remarkable  men  that  Islam  has  produced, 
Mohammed  ibn  .\bi  Amir,  siinianicd  Al  Mansour,  the  real 
caliph,  who  was  yet  content  with  a  position  corresponding  to 
that  of  the  mayors  of  the  palace  in  France.  As  the  hero  ot 
fifty  successful  campaigns,  he  probalily  displayed  as  much  mili- 
tary talent  as  was  to  be  witnessed  in  Kuroi)e  until  the  rise  of 
modern  warfare.  Nor  was  it  simph'  in  the  tii'ld  that  he  was 
great,  but  in  every  depart iiiciit  of  military  organization  and 
foresight,  for  to  him  might  apply  what  was  said  b}'  an  Aiidalu- 
sian  i)oet  of  another:  "  The  general,  in  the  morning  of  battle, 
awakens  thousands,  after  which  be  himself  goes  to  sleep." 
Like  all  great  leaders,  be  knew  how  to  mingle  justice  with  dis- 
cipline, so  that  be  was  alike  loved  and  feared  by  his  trooj)s.  A 
striking  anecdote  is  related  of  his  severity  of  discipline.  In 
reviewing  the  cavalry,  a  strict  silence  was  imperatively  com- 


SUBSEQUKNT    HISTORY.  277 

manded,  and  even  tlie  horses,  as  it  is  said,  were  taught  to 
refrain  from  neighing.  On  a  certain  occasion  of  this  sort, 
seeing  sometliing  glitter  in  the  ranks,  he  was  informed,  upon 
inquiry,  that  it  was  the  sabre  of  one  of  the  soklicrs.  In  vain 
did  the  culprit  protest  that  the  scabbard  had  slipped  oft'  while 
he  Avas  pointing  to  a  comrade.  Al  Mansour  would  admit  no 
excuse  for  a  disobedience  of  orders.  Tlio  oifciidor's  head  was 
struck  oft",  and  paraded  in  front  of  the  line  on  a  pole.  Doubt- 
less such  severity  was  necessary  to  retain  his  collection  of 
Christian  slaves  and  Berbers,  whom  he  first  composed  into  a 
standing  army  in  place  of  the  militia  upon  which  Mohammedan 
powers  generally  relied.  When  Al  Mansour  had  become  rich, 
he  determined  to  build  the  city  of  Azzahira,  partly  as  a  palace, 
partly  as  a  fortress  in  which  to  guard  his  treasures.  It  was 
situated  to  the  east  of  Cordova,  and  pronounced  by  historians 
second  onl}'  to  the  palace  of  Azzahra.  It,  too,  has  left  no  trace 
behind.  He  is  said  to  have  transcribed  the  Koran  with  his  own 
hand ;  and,  in  order  to  be  buried  in  the  full  odor  of  sanctity, 
was  in  the  habit,  during  his  campaigns  against  the  infidel 
Christians,  of  causing  his  garments  to  be  shaken  at  every  halt, 
and  the  dust  collected  into  a  bag.  His  winding  sheet,  spun  and 
woven  b}^  his  daughters  from  flax  that  had  been  grown  upon 
the  little  paternal  inheritance,  formed  always  a  jiart  of  his  bag- 
gage. He  was  buried  at  Medina  Cell  0)i  his  return  from  his  last 
campaign,  and  with  him  may  be  said  to  liave  perished  the 
dominion  of  the  Beni  Omeyah.  The  toi  preceding  sovereigns 
of  this  line  bad  reigned  an  average  of  twenty-six  years,  nor  had 
the  throne  been  once  acquired  b}-  violence.  In  the  next  twenty- 
four  it  was  destined  to  change  haiids  fifteen  times.  Cordova, 
alternately  a  prey  to  rival  tactions,  was  ruined.  Sacked  b}-  the 
fanatical  Berbers,  scarce  one  stone  was  left  upon  another.  The 
famous  palaces  of  Azzahra  and  Azzahira  disappeared  from  the 
face  of  the  earth.  "The  necklace  was  broken,  an<l  its  costly 
pearls  scattered,"  to  be  picked  up  in  succession  by  the  Almo- 
ravidcs  and  the  Almohades.  At  length  the  fated  instrument  of 
Providence  appealed  in  the  person  of  St.  Ferdinand.  It  iiad 
been  thought  that  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Beni  Ome3ah 
could  offer  a  sufficient  resistance;  "  but  who  can  escape  the  fate 
which  is  engraved  upon  the  tables  of  adamant  by  the  hand  of 
eternal  Providence  ?"  A  few  short  days  of  siege,  and  a  special 
bull  from  Pome  announced  to  the  Christian  world  that  Cor- 


278  SPAIN    AM>    THE    SPAMARPS. 

dova,  (he  anciont,  the  rt'iiowncil,  llie  wn-altliy  Cordova,  the 
lionu'  of  Onius  and  KuloLjio,  had  hcen  roseuoil  from  Payiiim 
hands.  Nor  were  the  iiiiHfortunes  of  Ishun  doomed  to  cease 
here.  Seville,  too.  after  an  ol»stinate  resistance,  fell  before  the 
eonquerin<;  swords  of  St.  .Ia<;o  and  St.  Ferdinand.  Four  liun- 
dred  tliousand  ])referred  exile  rather  than  submission  to  the 
conqueror,  and  the  roads  to  tiranada  and  ^lalai^a  wore  worn 
away  by  the  hurrying  tread  of  fugitives.  And  now  were  the 
hearts  of  the  faithful  throughout  Andalusia  liliod  with  grief 
and  terror.  Yea.  into  the  farthest  corners  of  the  east,  were 
the  dreadful  tidings  borne.  "Oh  man  I  suffer  not  thyself  to  be 
led  asti'ay  by  tlic  charms  of  this  life." 

"A  frightful,  an  irremcdialtle  blow  has  fallen  upon  Spain  ;  its 
sound  has  penetrated  even  to  Aralua,  and  Mount  Ohod  and 
Mount  Thalon  are  shaken  with  the  echo  thereof.  Her  i)rovin- 
ces  and  her  cities  are  convorto<l  into  deserts.  Ask  now  at 
Valencia  where  tliou  slialt  seek  Murcia':'  wlu-i-e  Xativa'  where 
laen  ? 

"  AVhcre  will  thou  lind  ( "oi-dox  a.  tlu-  home  of  the  intellectual? 
Where  are  all  the  learned  wli(»  once  sparkled  on  her  bosom  f 
Where  are  Seville  and  her  e.\(piisite  environs!;'  Where  her 
river  with  waters  so  ]>ure,  so  abundant,  so  delightful  '!  As  the 
lover  weeps  the  absence  of  his  l)elovetl,  so  does  afflicted  Islam 
weep. 

"Thou  art  content  and  free  from  cai-e ;  tb}- countr\- still  hath 
])leasui'es  for  theej  but  can  any  one  have  a  country  after  the 
loss  of  Seville  ? 

"Oh  ye,  who  mount  (be  bonuding  coui'sei",  who  on  the  tields 
where  the  sword  delights  its  fury,  fly  with  eagle's  speed  I 

"Oh  ye.  whose  hands  are  armed  with  the  gloved  steel  of 
Jmlia,  who,  in   the  dark  wiiirhvimis  of  dust,  glitter  as  the  fire  I 

'•  Oh  ye,  who  beyond  the  sea  pass  tranquil  and  pleasant  days, 
who  enjoy  jtower  and  glory  at  homo  ! 

"  IIuvo  ye  not  heard  of  the  inhabitants  of  Spain  y  Anil  yet 
messengers  have  gone  to  inform  you  of  their  sufferings  I 

''Those  are  covered  with  shame  who  so  latel}'  were  fiourish- 
ing  and  glorious. 

"  Yesterday  they  were  kings  at  home,  now  they  are  slaves 
in  the  country  of  the  infidel  ! 

''.Mil  eouldst  tiiou  have  seen  their  tears  flow  on  the  day 
when  they  were  sold  ! 


DISTINr.UISIIEI)    MEN.  279 

"Merciful  God  I  mu8t  a  mountain  bo  placed  between  the 
mother  and  her  children  ?  Must  the  soul  be  separated  from  the 
body  ? 

"  And  these  young  maidens,  heautitul  as  the  sun  when,  at  his 
risinii;,  he  sows  the  earth  Avith  coral  and  rubies. 

"Oh  horror  I  the  barbarian  drags  them  away  to  humiliation; 
their  eyes  are  bathed  in  tears,  and  their  senses  desert  them, 
drowned  in  misery." 

And  now,  in  ]d:u'e  of  the  elegant  ]\[oor,  comes  the  heavy 
tramj)  of  the  steel-clad  Christian,  strong  in  chivalrous  devotion 
to  his  faith,  and  in  the  assurance  of  victory.  The  Guzuians, 
the  Ponces  de  Leon,  the  Toledos,  the  Cordovas  press  through 
her  tottering  gates  on  their  march  to  cast  tlie  intidel  dog  from 
the  sacred  soil  of  Spain.  Another  religion  and  another  civili- 
zation succeed.  The  defilements  of  the  past  are  swept  rudely 
away.  Christianity  resumes  her  ancient  seat  upon  the  banks 
of  the  Guadalquivir.  But,  in  the  meantime,  rival  cities  have 
risen  to  eminence,  and  the  glor^^  of  Cordova  is  gone.  Every 
thing,  even  the  names  of  the  streets,  remind  one  of  the  day 
when  the  Great  Ca])tain  filled  the  wide  world  with  the  echo  of 
his  name.  Yet  nought  tangible,  except  the  venerable  mosque, 
remains  to  attest  the  greatness  of  her  who  once  sat  upon  the 
throne  of  civilization.  The  inhabitants  have  one  hereditary 
boast  left,  of  which  the}'  are  disposed  to  avail  themselves — the 
puiity  of  their  descent,  and  the  blue  blood  of  Cordova  has 
passed  into  an  adage  even  in  our  own  tongue.  The  city  cer- 
tainly has  been  favored  in  a  remarkable  degree  as  the  birth- 
place of  eminent  genius  and  talent,  whether  JRoman,  Goth, 
Mohammedan  or  Sjianish.  When  the  literai-y  athletes  of  the 
Augustan  age,  having  finished  their  course,  laid  down  the  lamp 
of  learning,  it  was  taken  up  by  the  children  of  the  west,  ('or- 
dova  contributed  the  Senecas,  Gallio  and  Lucan  to  a  circle  Avhich 
included  also  (^uintilian,  Silius  Italicus,  Floras  and  Martial. 
The  flame  no  longer  Inirnt  so  brightly  as  when  fed  b}'  Virgil 
and  Horace,  luit  its  light  has  penetrated  far  into  the  future. 
Tiie  new^  religion  sulisequently  sought  here  its  firmest  support- 
ers The  eru<lition  of  Averroes  and  his  countrymen  cast  a  lialo 
around  the  crescent,  and  the  historians  of  Spanisli  literature 
make  honorable  mention  of  their  successors. 

]iut  of  all  the  distinguished  men  to  whom  Cordova  gave  l»irth, 
no  one  was  more  remarkable,  or  exercised  a  greater  influence 


280  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    .SI'AMAKUS. 

upon  his  ai^c.  than  tho  famous  Osius.  its  bishoj)  in  the  thirtl  and 
iouith  c-cMiturics  of  t'hrislianity;  and  Sjjain  has  the  more  reason 
to  boast  of  this  wortiiy  heeausc  his  character  presented  many 
of  the  stron;^  traits  which  have  distinguished  Spaniards  at  all 
times.  As  was  Htly  remarked,  he  seems  to  have  been  born  a 
man  without  .icoini;  throULjh  the  preliminary  feelilencss  of  child- 
hoo«l,  for  scarcely  had  he  attained  legal  maturity  when  his 
fame  began  to  extend  itself,  not  only  in  the  l^'llin^ula,  but 
throni:;liout  the  Emj)ire.  In  youth  he  had  the  tjood  fortune  to 
bear  witness  to  the  faith  under  one  ol"  the  last  persecutions  of 
exi)irini:;  Pat:;anism.  At  thirty-eight  he  was  elevated  to  the 
bishopric  of  his  native  city,  and  from  that  time  forth  no  move- 
ment could  be  inaugurateil,  no  council  lu-ld.  no  creed  adopted, 
witliout  the  aid  of  the  Cordovese  saint.  In  the  great  contest 
against  the  Arian  heresy,  he  was  an  acknowledged  leader,  and 
was  called  to  preside  over  the  assembled  wisdom  and  i»iety  of 
the  world  at  the  great  Council  of  ^'ice,  whose  declaration  of 
faith  in  its  essential  parts  is  attributed  to  him.  Subsequently 
an  lOmperor  of  the  Arian  belief  having  ascended  the  throne  of 
Constantinople,  his  enemies  clamored  loudly  for  his  destruction. 
"True,"  said  they  to  the  monarch,  "We  have  cast  the  Koman 
Pontiff  from  his  seat,  and  have  banished  many  bishops;  true, 
we  have  filled  the  world  with  terror,  but  all  this  is  nothing,  so 
long  as  Osius  exists.  If  he  remains  in  his  bislioprie,  it  seems 
as  though  nothing  had  been  accomplishetl,  for  his  woi'd  alone  is 
capable  of  turning  the  whole  woi-ld  against  us." 

lie  was  ordered  to  confoi-m  to  what  was  now  tin-  estnMisht'd 
faith.  So  far  from  complying,  the  unci)n4ueral'ie  prehite  re- 
plied to  the  Emperor  in  a  letter  worthy  of  being  preserved 
through  all  time.  Among  the  unwelcome  truths  which  he 
dared  proclaim  to  the  iiii|)eriai  I'ar.  was  one  that  would  sound 
strange  Irom  a  Bishop  of  Cordova  at  the  ])resent  day  :  '(iod 
has  given  to  you  the  empire,  to  us  the  church,  and  as  he  who 
interferes  with  your  government  of  worldly  things,  contravenes 
the  Divine  ordinance;  so  beware  thou  likewise  of  pretending 
to  judge  of  sacred  matters.  Kender  unto  Ctvsar  the  things 
that  are  Cajsar's,  and  unto  God  the  things  that  are  Gotl's.  It 
is  not  given  to  us  to  have  power  upDn  earth,  neither  canst  thou, 
who  art  Emperor,  enjoy  authority'  in  affairs  of  religion."  It 
was.  however,  of  no  avail,  and  the  intrej)id  Osius,  bowed  down 
beneath  the  infirmities  of  a  century,  was  banished  to  a  rude 


THE    MARKET.  281 

cit}'  in  the  inliospitable  centre  of  Europe.  Death  anticipated 
the  triumph  of  his  enemies,  and  at  the  extreme  age  of  one  hun- 
dred and  one  years  he  received  the  reward  of  the  faithful. 

"It  would  be  superfluous  in  me,"  says  St.  Athanasius,  "to 
eulogize  this  illustrious  chief  of  the  martyrs,  for  the  whole 
world  knows  Avhat  he  has  sutt'ered  for  the  faith.  AVhat  council 
has  been  held  over  wiiich  he  did  not  preside?  What  assembly 
of  Bishops  ever  listened  to  the  eloquence  of  his  reasons  with- 
out being  convinced  't  What  church  cannot  remember,  having 
at  some  time  been  assisted  or  defended  by  him?  AVhat  suffer- 
ing spirit  ever  addressed  him  without  receiving  consolation?" 
In  the  immense  physical  and  mental  vigor,  the  unconquerable 
tenacity  of  jmrpose  and  the  enduring  courage  of  Osius,  we 
seem  to  have  before  us  the  ideal  of  Spanish  character. 

But  this  old  Moorish  tower  has  seduced  me  into  a  long 
digfession,  owing,  perhaps,  to  the  fact  that  there  is  little  to 
delight  the  eye;  for  at  the  j)resent  season  the  fields  around  are 
bare,  and  the  beauty  of  the  prospect  thereby  greatly  impaired. 
To  be  seen  in  its  glor}^,  one  should  ascend  the  Sierra  Morena, 
to  the  Convent  of  San  Geronimo,  some  winter  or  spring  even- 
ing, and  then  even  the  most  indifferent  will  appreciate  the 
"amenitas  loci."  Descending  from  the  town,  I  wandered  to 
the  market,  through  the  street  of  Gondomar,  whose  name  is  so 
familiar  to  the  reader  of  English  historj'.  Among  the  edibles 
exposed  for  sale,  were  pine  burrs  and  acorns;  not  our  pine 
burrs  nor  our  acorns,  which  would  puzzle  the  digestion  of  a 
Spanish  muleteer,  or  even  the  quondam  cook  at  the  Table 
Mountain,  but  the  fruit  of  the  stone  i)ine  and  of  the  sweet  oak, 
called  bcllota.  The  former  resembles  the  almond,  and  the  latter, 
when  roasted,  is  veiy  passal)lc.  The  bellota  is  supposed  to  be 
the  secret  of  the  superior  excellence  of  Andalusian  and  Estre- 
madiiran  pork  cutlets,  with  which  every  traveller  is  or  should 
be  familiar,  as  it  is  in  Spain  a  sort  of  shildtoleth,  and  jiroves 
the  consumer  to  be  neitlier  Jew  nor  Turk.  It  was  formerly 
supposed  that  the  fish,  in  passing  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Mediterranean,  fed  uj>on  them  also,  and  hence  derived  their 
delicate  flavor.  After  leaving  the  market,  an  hour  more  was 
consumed  in  strolling  about  the  narrow,  hilly  streets.  Cordova 
presents  b}-  no  means  the  beautiful  appearance  of  Seville.  The 
outsides  of  the  houses  arc  seldom  attractive;  but  there  are 
great  people  at  Cordova,  and  very  attractive  ones, — at  least 


2^2  SPAIN    ANMi    TIIK    srAMARPS. 

wlien  awav  from  liomo.  ns  I  luivo  nover  ri'mained  tluTO  long 
onouLcIi  lo  fonn  an  opinion  ol"  the  society  \<\  actual  oxj)erionc'e. 
I  asked  a  jK-rson  at  the  hotel  if  there  were  many  res])eetable 
inhahitants.  "  Si,  Si,  SeHor  I  hay  Condes  y  Diiques.  y  alirunos 
que  vaien  mas  aunqne  no  teni^an  litiilos,  ])(iri|iie  son  rieos." 
(There  are  Counts  and  Dukes,  and  others,  who  are  of  more 
im])ortanec  still,  although  they  have  no  titles,  because  ihey  are 
rich.)  This  is  the  cry  throughout  Europe.  The  almighty 
dollar  : 

I  very  naturally,  in  Cordova,  east  my  eyes  about  to  lind  u 
horse  of  the  famous  breed  for  which  it  was  so  celebrated.  Not 
one  did  I  see  above  mediocrity.  Nothing  has  so  completel}'' 
gone  to  ruin  as  the  stud,  that  formerly  sup])lied  I'^urope  with 
such  noble  steeds.  IMic  valley  of  the  ( iua(lal()iiivir  seemed  to  be 
j)eculiai'ly  tavored  in  this  respect.  The  best  were  said  to  come 
from  the  huiui  of  Ubeda,  above  Menjibar,  but  more  care  'was 
taken  with  the  royal  Ilara  at  ( "ordova.  and  that  belonging  lo 
the  Carthusians,  near  Xeres.  The  genealogy  of  everyone  was 
inscribed  in  a  book,  ami  copied  over  his  stall,  with  a  cai'c  that 
must  have  been  inherited  from  the  Arabs.  Tin  re  -m-v  one  or 
two  great  fairs  still  held  annually,  j)ai"ticularlN-  at  ^laireiia,  near 
Seville,  and  the  (Jovei'nment  has  tui'ned  its  serious  attention  to 
the  subject,  but  as  yet  without  marked  success.  The  ival 
Andalusian,  when  you  can  lind  one,  is  a  charming  animal, 
strongly  built,  broad  cliesUd  and  Itrowd.  willi  long  black  mane 
an<l  tail  sweeping  the  ground,  and  moving  with  a  sj)ringy, 
haughty  grace,  us  if  conscious  of  his  suj)eriorit3'.  With  all  their 
fire,  thej'  are  exceedingh'  docile  and  capable  of  warm  attach- 
ment. It  may  be  a  fancv.  but  they  seemed  to  be  of  a  higher 
order  of  creatui'i'  than  the  ivgular  race  boi-se.  whose  intelli- 
gence has  more  of  the  instinct  ;iii(l  less  of  the  liiiiiiaii.  W'liile 
first  in  Seville  1  bail  one — whom  I  christened  with  the  Mooi-ish 
name  of  Zaide — tpiite  as  intelligent  as  a  dog,  without  any 
special  etl'ort  on  my  part  lo  ti-aiii  liim.  The  ancients  fabled 
the  Spanish  horses  to  have  been  begotten  l»y  the  west  wind, 
but  1  shoukl  not  judge,  from  their  aj)pearance,  that  they  were 
capable  of  great  speed.  They  seemed  to  nu-  rather  intended 
for  war  steeds  and  chargers  of  noble  caballeros,  than  mere 
coursers  or  draught  beasts.  The  S])anish  method  of  bitting  and 
training  is  not  at  all  to  my  taste,  and  fails  entirely  in  develop- 
ing the  powers  and  beauty  of  the  animal.     The  dcclino  of  the 


CANDOR    OF    TIIK    SCHOOL    BOYS.  283 

breed  muy  be  attributed  parti}'  to  tlie  rapidly  increasii)<;-  demand 
for  mules,  and  more  still  to  tbc  War  of  Iiulependeiiee,  which 
broke  up  all  tlie  old  establishments.  It  will  require  great  skill 
and  some  expense  to  restore  it. 

As  it  was  now  growing  hot,  and  1  had  seen  all  that  was 
curious,  even  to  the  soi  disant  j)alin  ti-ees  of  the  calijih's  garden, 
I  returned  to  the  hotel,  and,  in  cumpan}^  with  a  Swede,  sat 
down  to  breakfast,  louring  this  meal  we  enjoyed  the  pleasure 
of  having  the  mirror  held  up  to  natui*e  by  a  gathering  of 
school  hojs  Avho  had  stopped  at  the  window  on  theii*  way  for 
the  purpose  of  inspecting  any  outside  barbarians  that  might  be 
visible,  and  who  were  kind  enough  to  give  us,  without  charge, 
the  full  l)enetit  of  their  criticism.  A  breathless  silence  prevailed 
as  we  took  our  seats,  broken  by  occasional  exclamations  of 
"  JiiVa .'  Jlj'ra .'"  (look  I)  as  either  of  us  would  make  a  move- 
ment. Having  been  on  my  legs  nearh'  five  hours.  I  felt  some- 
what tired  and,  forgetful  of  tlie  ]n'inciples  ol"  teetotal  alistinence, 
m}'  first  movement  had  been  to  driidv  ott' a  bumper  of  Montilla. 
This  produced  a  genei-al  exelamation  among  the  audience  of 
"  J/i'm  /  que  va  a  eniborracharsc .'"  (Look!  he  is  going  to  get 
drunk  !)  Presently  the  omelette  Avas  brougiit.  ^'A/iora  e)npit'::a 
la  tortilla"  (now  it  is  the  omelette's  turn),  they  exclaim, 
delighted  at  the  in*ospecl  of  close  action.  From  this  their 
remarks  extended  themselves  to  our  peisonal  appeai-ance, 
winding  up.  with  ^'quc  bigutes!"  (what  mustachiosi)  Now,  sur- 
rounded as  we  were  b}'^  the  relics  of  Mohammedan  civilization, 
an  insult  to  one's  beard  could  not  Ije  borne.  AVith  one  accord, 
therefore,  we  clapped  our  hands,  whieh  is  the  semi-Oriental 
signal  used  in  Spain  for  the  waiter.  ''Llainan  a  Pedro"  (they 
are  calling  Peter),  whispered  the  boys.  Peter  came,  and,  like 
an  old  soldier,  seeing  either  from  past  ex|)erience  or  by  the 
higher  (piality  of  intuitive  perception,  what  was  the  trouble, 
dispersed  the  enemy  by  one  gallant  charge  with  the  brusli 
handle,  and  closed  the  shutter.  My  companion,  no  great  ad- 
mirer of  Spain,  was  indignant  at  such  conduct,  more  ])articu- 
larly  since  his  mustachios  reached  to  his  cars  and  nearly  around 
liis  head;  I  thought  it  rather  amusing.  Trampiility  restored, 
we  ate  our  breakfast  and  drank  our  Montilla  wine  in  peace, 
and  with  infinite  relish.  Montilla  is  too  strong  for  a  regular 
drink  in  S])ain,  but  as  a  sort  of  agreeable  semi-medicine,  it 
Avould  be  invalualile.     The  taste  is  delicious;  not  too  sweet;  of 


284  KPAIN    AMI    TIIK    STAMAUDS. 

much  body;  tonic  without  heating,  and  a  stomadiic  of  tlic  first 
water.  Havini;  expressed  a  desire  to  drink  some  of  the  best 
once  in  my  li(e.  as  we  had  none  in  America,  the  Asturian  had 
brou/j;ht  me  this  Itottle..  which  lie  thought  would  fulfil  my 
utmost  ex])ectation8,  and  be  was  ri<ijht.  I  had  often  heard  it 
praised  as  ecjual  to  the  Amontillado,  but  what  I  had  hitherto 
obtained  must  have  been  of  a  very  inferictr  (juality — not  to  bo 
comj)are(l  with  this  bottle. 

The  moi-nin;^  work  over,  we  sat  on  the  shady  side  of  the 
Court,  and  lisiening  to  the  murmui'ing  of  the  fountain,  and 
enjoying  the  soothing  fumes  of  our  cigars,  Itmlc  defiance  to  the 
noonday  lieat. 


Chapter  XVI. 
CORDOVA,  BY  MALAGA  AND  ALHAMA  TO  GEANADA. 

Depart  with  Arrieros — Goats  —  Ilifitoric  Towns  —  Luccna  —  Anti'i|uera — Pcfia  do 
los  Enamorados — View  from  the  Sierra — Down  the  Valley  to  Malaga — Grapes — 
The  City — Inhabitants  —  Alameda — English  Party  —  Spanish  Curiosity — Sea 
Bathing  —  View  from  the  Water — Visitors  from  the  Springs — Journey  to  Gran- 
ada— Velez  M.alaga — Spanish  Riding — Horsemanship — The  Bull — I  am  Assas- 
sinated— Alhania — The  Posada — The  Fair — Fandango— Morning  Scenery — Shep- 
herd Dogs — The  Sick  Morisco — Hog  Lotfery — Approach  to  Granada. 

Cordova  being  ti  thing  of  tlie  past  rather  than  the  ])resent,  is 
not  a  town  to  arrest  the  mere  traveller  long,  and  having  vis- 
ited it  once  before  thoroughly,  a  day  "was  amply  sufficient  to 
revive  my  recollections.  As  luck  would  have  it,  an  Arriero — 
un  hombre  de  confianza — was  returning  to  Malaga  that  day, 
and,  by  way  of  varying  the  style  of  conveyance,  I  conchided  to 
take  passage  with  him.  A  moderate  unamI)itious  looking 
horse  was  provided,  and  the  son  of  the  An-iero,  a  model  of  taci- 
turnity for  an  Andalusian,  was  attached  to  my  person  as  a 
specitd  guide,  in  order  to  relieve  me  from  the  necessity  of 
remaining  always  with  the  tniin.  So,  as  the  sun  began  to 
decline,  we  took  our  departure  for  Malaga,  across  ti)e  country, 
b}-  a  new  route,  at  least  to  me.  Crossing  the  famous  Moorish 
bridge  over  the  Guadalquivir,  we  followed  for  some  distance 
the  Seville  road,  ascending  the  hill  that  bounds  the  valley  to 
the  south-east.  The  view  over  the  city  ia  certainly  very  fine, 
finer  even  than  that  from  the  opposite  elevation,  because,  from 
this  side  the  Si'erra  Morena  itself,  with  its  groves  and  villas, 
forms  a  prominent  object  in  the  landscape.  At  its  base  extend- 
ed the  valley;  its  grayish  fields  relieveil  by  occasional  villages, 
conspicuous  among  them  always  tin?  castle-rock  of  Almodovar. 
For  some  leagues  the  r«)ad  was  uninteresting,  though  Ave  did 
pass  from  time  to  time  most  picturesque  thatched  tents,  with  a 
wild  robl»er-looking  family  seeking  shelter  in  them  from  tho 


286  SPAIN    AM»    THK    SI'AN1AK1»S. 

sun,  wliili'  a  donkey  ami  a  coujilo  of  pif^f*.  those  never  lailin«jj 
evidences  of  the  Spaniard's  orthodoxy,  sought  to  aeeoniph'sh 
the  same,  and  on  the  outside.  The  heat  was  indeed  terrific, 
not  to  use  a  stronixi^i'  expression.  Xo  dehility,  no  perspiration, 
but  you  felt  as  if  on  the  point  of  crispini^  up,  and  it  required 
all  the  aid  of  hanflkerehiefs  and  unihrellas  to  keep  from  shriv- 
ellini;  to  a  niunmiy.  Late  in  the  atternoon  we  passed  several 
lierds  of  ;j;oats,  which  merit  remark  on  account  of  their  beautj''. 
They  were  as  tall  as  calves,  of  a  reddish  brown  color,  and 
resembled  somewhat  our  deer  in  appearance.  The  ancient 
Iberians  are  said  to  have  been  fond  of  stoats.  The  taste  is 
justitialile  if  they  had  such  as  these.  Even  Ksau  might  have 
found  some  excuse.  The  animal  ceitainly  ranks  higher  in 
Spain  than  in  most  other  countries.  The  long  summer  and  the 
want  of  suitable  pasturage  render  cow's  milk  a  rare  luxury, 
and  that  of  goat's  is  substituted  in  its  j)iace.  The  former  is, 
moreover,  consi<lered  bilious  in  this  climate.  Every  moi-ning, 
carh',  the  herdsman  may  be  seen  driving  his  charge  thi-ough 
the  streets,  stopping  at  the  houses  of  his  customers  to  deliver 
the  article  fresh  from  the  teat.  I  found  it  ([uite  agreeable  to 
the  taste,  and  then  it  is  pure,  for  the  ojieration  of  milking  takes 
place  before  your  eyes,  and  there  is  no  opportunity  of  appeal- 
ing to  the  town  pump,  even  if  that  science  had  been  imported 
into  these  unsoj)histicale(i  ivgions.  Sometimes  the  goats  es- 
cai)e  into  the  mountains,  where,  after  a  generation,  they  be- 
come ])erfectly  wild,  and  are  hunted  as  game. 

This  part  of  the  country  was  for  a  long  tinu'  tlie  march  of 
the  Moorish  frontier,  and  its  towns  have  i-ach  a  place  in  his- 
tory. All  that  lay  upon  the,  route  were  well  built  for  tiie  pur- 
pose of  sustaining  an  attack.  Some  of  the  noldest  titles  and 
proudest  families  rose  into  conse(pience  by  vii'tue  of  their  valor 
disjilayed  upon  these  fields.  Aguila,  Ferman  XuHez.  Cabra, 
Montilia.  ai-e  laniiliar  to  readers  of  Spanish  history.  Tiie  lat- 
ter lies  a  mile  or  so  to  the  left  of  the  road,  Imilt  upon  the  long 
tongue  of  land  which  extends  from  the  taijPe  land  into  the 
valley.  It  seemed  at  a  distance  aiiniiralily  calculated  for  a 
frontier  station.  This  is  the  region  of  the  famous  wine  of 
which  I  have  spoken.  The  country  between  the  (Juadal([iiivir 
and  the  (Jenil,  over  which  wo  were  travelling  is  very  broken. 
Every  village  was  set  upon  a  hill.  And  what  is  unusual  in 
Europe,  they  were  all  full  of  children.     Not  a  beggar  appeared 


FINE    HOUSES    AT    LUCENA. — ANTEQUEKA.  287 

on  the  route,  owing-,  porlwips,  to  its  being  so  sekloni  tnivciled. 
As  wo  had  started  late,  the  night  was  ever  so  tar  advanced 
when  we  reached  Lucena,  and  the  latter  part  of  the  journey 
was  performed  in  the  dark,  so  if  the  country  jiresents  any 
beauties  the}'  were  lost  to  me.  The  Posada  being  seldom  vis- 
ited b}^  foreigners,  was,  in  the  primitive  style,  none  llu;  wor.se, 
however,  for  that,  as  we  at  least  were  not  imposed  ujwn  in  the 
cuisine;  no  boiled  beef  broiled  up  into  steaks,  but  a  real  olla 
and  huei'os  con  jamon.  Opposite  to  the  Posada  was  one  of  the 
handsomest  private  residences  I  had  seen  in  Andalusia,  tlirec 
stories  high,  with  a  magnificent  marble  court  and  beautiful 
fountains.  It  was  just  tinished,  and  had  been  dedicated  to 
some  saint  in  gratitude  for  a  narrow  escape  on  the  ])art  of  the 
owner  from  an  impending  accident.  The  landlady  asked  me  if 
we  were  so  devout  in  America.  I  replied,  that  if  we  returned 
such  cost!}'  thanks  in  my  country  for  every  escape  from  peril, 
we  would  be  soon  reduced  to  poverty.  My  statement  was 
received  without  incredulit}',  as  on  this  side  of  the  water  our 
daily  food  is  supposed  to  consist  of  bowie  knives  and  revolvers. 
The  next  day's  ride  was  as  uninteresting  as  its  predecessor,  as 
far  as  the  Genii,  whose  cr3'stal  waters  we  crossed  at  Benameji. 
Thence  the  I'oad  led  over  a  Sierra,  unrolling  pretty  landscapes, 
down  to  the  city  of  Antequera,  where  dusty,  hot  and  travel- 
stained,  we  found  a  hearty  welcome  in  a  tidy  inn,  Avhich  proved 
eminently  satisfactory  after  a  long,  and  I  must  confess,  tire- 
some ride.  Nature  doubtless  puts  on  a  handsome  garb,  in 
spring  or  autumn,  though  I  cannot  speak  from  experience,  as 
this  was  my  only  journey  here.  She  certainly  wore  a  very 
sombre  russet  at  the  ])rescnt  time.  A  traveller  in  search  of 
the  picturesque  woidd  do  I'ar  better  to  ])ass  by  ivonda  or  Alcala 
la  Real,  either  of  which  routes  would  satisfy  his  expectations. 
Nor  can  I  i)oast  of  having  found  anything  of  noteworthy  inter- 
est in  the  city  itself,  unless  it  be  that,  peering  about  in  the 
stable  to  look  after  the  cattle,  I  saw  several  little  IJoman  col- 
umns with  Ionic  capitals,  wiiich  had  been  pressed  into  service 
from  some  ruins,  prol»ahly  by  the  Moors,  for  the  building  was 
old  enough  to  have  dated  from  that  period.  The  ancient 
castle  on  the  hill  was  visited,  and  oflTercd  a  line  prosjiect  at 
sunset.  This  completes  the  list  of  sights,  so  far  as  my  ob.ser- 
vation  extended. 

A  companionable,  middle  aged  Spaniard,  with   a  long  gun. 


288  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

li:ul  lii'cn  my  coinjKUiioii  liillu-rto,  l»ut  lie  K-ft  at  An(o(|iU'ra  for 
liis  Ikhiic.  aiul  I  was  to  coiitimio  tlio  jotinioy  tlio  next  day  with 
the  Arrirros  only.  Wc  started  from  Anteqiiora  without  wait- 
ing for  the  1  est  of  the  train,  as  early  as  mi^ht  he.  to  avoid  the 
heat,  if  that  were  possible.  The  road  cornineneed  immediately 
its  steep  ascent  of  the  Sierra,  which  extends  to  TJonda,  forming 
the  mountain  chain,  to  which  even  (Jihraltar  and  perhaps  Centa 
belong,  and  which  separates  the  Mediterranean  littoral  from 
the  high  lands  of  the  interior.  The  view  over  the  Journey  we 
had  j)erformed  began  to  develop  itself  ra])idly.  The  fertile 
Vega  surrounding  the  city,  which  had  scarcely  the  appearance 
of  a  town  of  our  century,  was  still  in  the  shade  of  the  eastern 
mountains.  Beyond  it,  toward  thi-  valley  of  the  Genii,  ex- 
tendctl  the  broken  country  of  Andalusia,  its  brown,  dusty  hue 
of  the  season,  somewhat  relieved  by  tlie  salt  lake,  a  unique 
featiire  in  the  landscape.  The  road  to  (iranada  wound  around 
the  loft}'  Pena  de  los  Enainorados,  or  Lovers'  Leaj),  which,  in 
solitai'v  grandeur,  commands  the  approach  to  Loja.  The  tra- 
dition iclls  (hat  once  tliei'c  was  a  Christian  slave  in  (Jranada  of 
such  excellent  disposition  and  exemplary  conduct  as  to  win 
the  heart  of  his  master's  family,  including  an  only  daughter 
But  alas  1  what  hope  was  there  for  the  Moorish  maiden  save  in 
flight"::'  They  embraced  a  fortunate  opportunity,  and  another 
soul  was  about  to  be  gathered  into  the  fold  of  the  holy  church, 
when  the  raging  father  ap])eare(|  in  sight,  followed  by  his 
armed  retainers.  Knowing  the  fate  reserved  for  them  —death, 
or  what  were  worse  than  death  itself,  a  separation  in  life — the 
despairing  lovers  refused  to  surrender  themselves,  and  liy  dint 
of  stones,  drove  back  the  assailing  party.  At  length  archers 
were  brought,  when,  seeing  no  longer  hoi)e  of  escape,  the  faith- 
ful pair,  locked  in  a  dying  embrace,  fell  crushed  at  the  feet  of 
the  relentless  pai'cnt.  One  grave  i-eceived  them,  and  the  still 
unforgiving  Moslem  i-etiirnt'd  lorloi-ii  and  heavy  hearted  to  his 
cheerless  home  in  (rranaila. 

Ante<piera  is  a  place  of  considerable  inii)orlance,  as  it  is  situ- 
ated at  the  enibrancliinent  of  (lie  roads  from  i\[alaga,  (ii-anada, 
Ronda  and  Osuiia,  and  numerous  arc  the  trains  of  mules  that 
tread  its  rocky  streets.  P>iii  it  occupied  a  much  more  ))romi- 
nent  place  in  the  world  when  it  was  a  great  outpost  of  the 
Mohammedan  kingdom  in  the  east  oi"  Andalusia,  How  often 
has  the  watchman  from  its  castle  tower  seen  the  fierce  battle 


PASS    OF    ESCABF.RUZALA. GRAPES.  280 

between  cross  and  eroseent  r:i<;-e  beneath  these  walls  I  \)v\{  its 
fate  was  sealed  in  1410.  when  it  fell  before  the  conquering 
sword  of  Fernando.  No  sooner  had  the  Christian  taken  full 
possession,  than  a  fierce  contest  arose  as  to  wlio  had  been  the 
first  to  scale  its  walls.  j\lany  were  the  claimants  for  this  dis- 
tinguished honor,  and  great  the  rivalry.  After  much  delibera- 
tion and  examination  of  witnesses,  the  judge  decided  in  favor 
of  Juan  Biscaino,  who  had  died  the  soldier's  death  in  the  tower 
itself,  and  was  now  in  the  far  off  lanti  beyond  the  tomb  cnjo\''- 
ingtlic  crown  of  martyrdom  that  fadeth  not. 

After  a  couple  of  hours'  steep  ascent  we  reached  the  Pass  of 
Escaberuzala,  and  I  reclined  upon  a  little  pinnacle,  surrounded 
by  immense  misshapen  rocks,  to  enjoy  the  view.  A  cooling 
breeze  swejit  up  from  the  sea.  As  it  is  only  a  few  leagues  to 
the  coast,  the  descent  is  rapid  and  frequently  pi'ccipitous.  The 
pass  was  at  the  head,  as  it  were,  of  a  vast  funnel ;  on  each  side 
extended  the  spurs  of  the  Sierra,  hounding  the  valley,  and 
separating  gradualh'  until  they  sunk  ahru]itly  down  at  the 
margin  of  the  shore.  The  valley  deserved  the  name,  in  so  far 
as  it  lay  betM'een  two  mountain  ridges — but  of  smooth  green 
meadow  slojie  thei'e  was  nothing.  All  was  arid,  distorted, 
wild  in  the  extreme,  but  grand,  and  beautiful  in  its  grandeur. 
Beyond  extended  the  Mediterranean,  presenting  the  curious 
pcr.s])cctive  appearance  which  the  sea  always  has  when  looked 
down  upon  from  a  great  height.  Far,  fur  away  to  the  south 
could  be  dimly  seen  the  mountain  coast  of  Africa  and  the 
man}'  peaks  of  Atlas  struggling,  as  of  yore,  with  the  weight  of 
the  heavens.  Imitating  Isabella,  I  with  truth  exclaimed, "  Mar- 
bellal  Marbella!"  A  few  Cortijos  sparkling  below  were  the 
onl}'  evidences  of  life.  Several  ti-ains  of  burden  mules  passed 
b}-,  the  Arrieros  singing  occasional  snatches  of  old  border 
l)allads;  and  once  a  large  vulture  flew  circling  around,  other- 
wise a  dead  silence  reigned,  undisturl)ed  even  by  the  humming 
of  a  beetle,  and  the  iron  landscajie  seemed  frozen  into  eternal 
immobility.  I  remaini'd  a  half  hour  imbibing  the  poetry  of  the 
situation,  when  the  increasing  heat  recalled  the  long  journey 
ahead,  and  slaking  our  thrist  at  a  cold  and  dcliciously  pure 
fountain  that  burst  frum  the  rock,  we  commenced  the  descent. 
For  many  a  weary  mile  we  wound  anu)ng  the  parched  liill 
sides.  Finall}'  we  entered  the  region  of  the  grape,  and  thence, 
even  to  the  gates  of  Malaga,  our  path  was  bordered  by  vine- 
20 


290  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

yards.  ]>on(lant  with  (ho  most  luxuriant  fruit  I  cvit  bohold. 
SoHK"  wi'ic  at  least  (  I  lour  to  say  it  )  an  inch  and  a  lialf  in 
len<!;th,  and  so  luscious  as  to  he-  alisolutriy  tloyini^  to  the  taste. 
The  ^rt'at  w<»nder  to  nu*  was  whence  the  vines  jirocured  sufti- 
cient  moisture  even  lor  their  sustenance.  Water  there  was 
none.  n(»r  had  any  rain  fallen  for  five  months,  and  the  air  was 
as  drv  as  the  earth.  The  streams  were  exhausted,  and  families 
had  even  estaldished  themselves  under  tin;  little  hrid«>;es.  such 
is  the  unchan<;ing  nature  of  the  climate  during  the  summer 
months.  Deserting  the  road,  a  considerable  part  of  the  journey 
was  performed  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  which,  with  the  thatched 
luits  for  the  vine^'ard  keepers  and  for  the  sale  of  commodities, 
resembled  a  street.  In  the  rainy  season  the  beds  are  quickly 
filled,  and  every  rivulet  assumes  gigantic  proportions  as  it 
sweeps  down  the  mountain  side  ireighted  with  its  load  of  stones 
and  sand.  I'he  temiiei-alure  of  the  coast  of  Malaga  is  hiijher 
lliaii  that  of  tin-  valley  of  the  Guadalquivir  or  even  of  AlVica 
itself,  for  the  Sierra  wards  off  effectiially  the  winds  from  the 
north,  and  it  may  be  truly  as  well  as  ])oetically  said,  that 
suMinier  I'eigns  throughout  the  year.  Enormous  cactuses,  laden 
with  i'ij)e  Iruit,  were  evidences  of  a  tropical  luxuriance.  A 
brisk  breeze  blowing  up  the  valley  all  day  had  rendered  the 
temperature  cnduraliK'.  yet  we  were  not  sorry  on  ascending  a 
hill  crest  to  see  the  city  of  .Malaga  smiling  in  the  midst  of  its 
gardens.  Its  environs  gave  proof  of  commercial  j)i'Os])erity 
in  numerous  villas;  and  some  tall,  smoking  chimneys  hat.1  made 
their  a))pearance  since  ni}-  last  visit.  The  approach  to  a  com- 
mercial cit}'  isgenerall}-  m(;re  enlivening  than  that  to  an  inland 
capital.  It  seems  as  though  llu'  inhabitants  of  the  former 
sou"-ht  their  pleasure  in  fleeing  without  the  walls  where  their 
labor  is  done  and  their  wealth  amassi-d.  In  the  latlei-,  exactly 
the  reverse  hapi)ens,  as  wealth  is  brought  and  pleasure  sought 
within.  So  that  while  the  environs  of  the  one  arc  brilliant 
with  the  overflowing  of  superfluous  wealth,  the  travi-ller  fre- 
quently enters  the  other  without  i)reliminary  warning  of  his 
ajjproach  to  a  great  centre  of  retinement  and  luxury.  The 
contrast  in  this  respect  between  Malaga  and  Madrid  is  strik- 
ing. Crossing  the  dry  bed  of  the  Guadalmedina,  or  the  river 
of  the  city,  i  was  soon  lodged  in  a  hotel  upon  the  Alameda, 
and  lifide  adii'U  to  my  silent  conductor. 

Malaga   is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  cities  in  Spain,  not- 


MARKETS. — SWEET    WINES. — THE    PEOI'LE.  201 

withstanding  Mie  shoalin<;  of  the  liarhor  by  tlic  detritus  of  tlic 
mountain  torrents,  whi(di  impose  the  necessity  of  constant 
dredging.  It  naturall}'  has  a  monopoly  of  the  export  of  raisins 
and  the  various  Malaga  wines,  the  demand  for  whicli  is  increas- 
ing every  year.  In  the  hist  ten  years  manufactures  too  have 
taken  a  considerable  start,  notwithstanding  the  etforts  of  their 
English  friends  to  persuade  them  Ihat  their  only  calling  is 
agriculture,  and  that  they  should  leave  every  other  source  of 
i\ational  wealth  to  foreign  countries.  Malaga  has  also  another 
merit  with  a  traveller  sutfering  from  the  Solano,  which  was  in 
full  blast ;  it  has  few  paintings  or  other  works  of  art,  whether 
good  or  bad.  The  Cathedral  is  an  immense  structure,  but 
detains  you  a  very  little  while.  The  Alcazaba — the  ancient 
Moorish  castle — is  a  magniticent  feature  in  the  landscape,  from 
the  water,  but  it  is  scared}'  worth  tiie  while  to  enter  unless  it 
be  for  the  view.  This  completes  the  list,  so  that  Malaga  is  to 
the  sight-weary  traveller  a  sort  of  holiday — a  day  of  rest.  At 
this  season  of  the  year,  the  great  attraction  was  the  grape 
market,  which  offered  such  treasures  as  are  rarely  seen  else- 
where. The  size  of  the  fruit  was  in  some  instances  sur])risin<r, 
almost  as  large  as  a  small  peai-,  and  its  juice  sweet  as  distilled 
honey.  In  fact,  rather  too  much  so  for  my  taste.  It  is  said, 
perhaps  with  truth,  that  a  preference  for  acids  over  sweets  is 
characteristic  of  habits  which  have  departed  from  nature,  just 
as  old  drunkards  dislike  champagne.  Certainly,  Spaniai'ds  of 
both  sexes  preserve  their  natural  taste  in  this  respect,  if  a  love 
of  sweets  be  the  criterion,  and  Andalusia  must  be  the  country 
of  nature,  for  among  all  its  productions  there  is  scarcely  one  of 
an  acid  character.  The  grape  vintage  is  the  bus}-  time  here, 
rendering  the  city  for  the  time  quite  an  emporium.  The  peas- 
ants flock  in  from  the  country  and  foreign  vessels  crowd  the 
harbor,  giving  it  quite  a  brisk  appearance. 

The  society  being  commercial,  is  naturally  more  free  and 
easy  than  that  of  Seville  or  C'ordova;  but,  perhaps  for  the  very 
reasons  that  render  it  so,  is  regarded  as  second  rate  by  the 
blue  blood  that  dispf)rts  on  the  l)anks  of  the  Guadalquivir  and 
the  (Jenil.  Even  the  majos  of  Seville  regard  with  contemj)t 
the  feel>le  imitations  <»f  the  coast.  So  far  as  out  ward  appcai'ance 
goes,-  the  ladies  certainly  are  fiir  inferior  to  the  lii<>-|i  born 
dames  of  Seville,  Cordova  or  Hcija.  Tbere  is  a  want  of  that 
indcfinabh'   high   bred   elegance  wiiich   seems   to  jireside  over 


L".<2 


SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SrAMAUnS. 


llie  sinalli'st  rnovfiiu'iit  of  tlu'ir  jirouil  iu'i<:;lil»(»i-s.  Nor  do  I 
tirid  llic  flimato  as  atjrooaltlo,  tliou;fli  a  jn-Tjictiial  sjn-ing  does 
truly  rei^n,  and  it  is  also  said  that  there  is  not  sutiicient  variety 
in  the  seas<»ns  to  jirodiu-e  lliat  hracini^  of  the  system  which  is 
requisite  to  the  jierCection  of  a  climate.  Ilenee,  persons  who 
reside  a  Ioiilj  time  at  Mahiija  are  ajil  to  suH'er  from  a  feebleness 
and  distension  of  the  veins.  The  Malaifueilas  have,  however, 
a  very  fine  Alameda,  in  the  centre  of  tlie  city,  iijxni  which  to 
display  their  charms,  and  tliere  are  few  more  a^rcialilc  loiin<i;- 
in:;  places,  after  dinner,  on  a  summer's  eve. 

Sitting  there  one  afternoon,  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  scijar  and 
the  dolce  far  niente,  ni}-  attention  was  arrested  hy  the  ajjjiear- 
ance  of  an  old  woman.  a])pareiilly  si.xty  years  of  ai^e.  much 
bent  and  sluivcllcd,  but  still  vii;-orous.  and  not  i-asiiy  aiarniod. 
if  one  miiiht  Judge  by  her  gray  eye.  Jler  costume  was  humble 
and  faded,  and  in  the  excess  of  the  English  fashion,  her  dress 
coquettishl}-  hclii  up  in  fVoiit  of  her  i-jgiit  leg,  wliilr  a  jiarasol 
])rotccted  her  ieatures  from  tiie  sun,  whidi.  iiowevcr,  was  quite 
innocent  of  any  amoi'ous  intent,  as  it  had  alread}'  descended 
be-low  the  house  tops.  A  young  girl  and  a  boy  accompanied 
licr.  Every  eye  was  lunicd  upon  liic  parly.  A  straggling 
collection  of  bo^'s  followed  \\  ilb  i.'\  idi'iit  aniusiMiirnt .  and  stood 
around  their  seat  in  wonder.  I  ihougbi  it  a  inisplaciMl  carnival 
joke,  and  that  some  wags  Imd  dressed  tbeinsilvcs  up  to  ridicule 
the  English  fashions.  It  was  certainly  tlie  best  imitation  in 
the  worbl.  It  turned  out,  however,  that  they  were  really  from 
Albion's  clitls,  and  were  much  annoyed  by  the  impertinent 
curiosity  of  tluir  tormentors — so  niueb  so  that  they  soon  left 
the  Alameda.  Jt  was  only  to  bi-ing  up  reinforcements,  for  they 
])resently  rea]t|»eai'ed,  leaning  on  the  arm  of  an  old  man,  who 
was  provided  with  a  good  stout  stick,  and  iiad  I'vidently  come 
to  vindicate  the  right  of  his  lair  hi'lii-meet  to  an  unmolested 
])lace  on  the  j)romenade.  J  di<l  admire  the  old  fellow's  pluck, 
for  it  reipiircd  more  than  a  soldier's  couiMge  to  face  the  fash- 
ionable world  at  the  head  of  such  a  liarle(juin-lookii:g  party 
It  was  amusing  to  see  the  ell'ect  jiroduced  by  (leneral's  stick 
and  determined  aspect,  for  the  crowd  kept  at  a  most  respectful 
distance,  making  ever}'  possible  allowance  lor  the  length  of  hi8( 
arm.  They  took  a  seat  by  inc.  The  curiosity  of  the  bystanders 
soon  became  satisfied,  and  it  was  now  their  turn  Ibr  revenge. 
They  had  just  arrived,  and  the  elif'ect  which  they  jiroduced  upon 


CURIOSITY    OF    SPANIARDS. — SKA    BATH.  208 

the  Malagnofias  was  not  greator  than  the  effeet  prochiced  hy 
tlie  Mahiguefias  upon  them.  ?]verythin<f  excited  Iheir  wonder, 
and  sometimes  their  merriment.  Tlie  climax  was  capped  by 
the  appearance  of  two  uncommonly  fat  priests  in  low  shoes  and 
white  stockings,  with  tlie  in^mense  Basilio  hats,  a  yard  long 
and  turned  up  at  the  side,  which  still  hold  tlieir  place  in  the 
Spanish  clerieaLcostume.  Thinking  after  this  that  they  had 
had  enjoj'mcnt  enough  for  one  day,  the  whole  part}^  retired. 

Strangers  are  frequcntl}'  much  anno3^cd  hy  the  observation 
which  their  foreign  dress  excites  in  Spain.  But  really  it  is  very 
natural.  They  go  hundreds  and  thousands  of  miles  to  see  the 
Spaniards  and  their  costume,  and  the  S])aniards  with  equal 
curiosity  stare  at  them.  We  think  that  an  Andalusian  majo, 
in  his  Figaro  dress,  is  a  fit  object  of  wonder,  and  that  a  man 
who  dons  such  a  costume  has  no  right  to  object  to  a  considei'a- 
l>le  amount  of  staring.  But  a  Paris  or  London  dandy  is  a  far 
more  incom])reliensible  and  amazingly  di'essed  object  in  the 
eyes  of  a  Spaniard.  Imagine  one  of  them  turned  loose  in  some 
primitive  town  in  Amei'ical  ^I'he  number  of  travellers  in  Spain 
is  still  comjiaratively  few,  and  a  simple  stranger  is  of  himself 
an  object  of  curiosit}*  ofl"  the  highways,  luit  the  appearance  of 
one  of  the  ornaments  of  creation  above  mentioned  is  the  signal 
for  a  general  turnout  of  the  population — men,  women  and 
children.  I  knew  an  Englishman  at  Madrid  Avho  was  excess- 
ively teased  on  the  Prado  by  this  habit,  but  he  was  not  born  a 
martyr,  and  half  his  time  was  sjient  in  walking  defiantly  around 
jiersons  who  had  manifested  more  curiosity  than  A\as  seemly. 
His  plan  was  a  most  successful  one;  it  was  as  magical  in  effect 
upon  the  unmannerlj^  gapers  as  the  "Perdoneme  vin.  por  Dios" 
is  upon  a  beggar,  for  few  people  are  willing  to  risk  a  fight  for 
tlie  pleasure  of  being  impertinent.  The  most  dangerous  thing 
of  all,  however,  for  a  foreigner  is  to  adopt  the  full  Spanish  cos- 
tume, for  that  requires  a  grace  of  movement,  a  springiness  of 
stej»  which  twenty  j-ears  of  strajis  and  suspenders  is  apt  to 
impair  if  not  destroy. 

As  Malaga  affords  facilities  for  salt  water  bathing,  I  ])resscd 
into  service  a  boy,  one  of  the  Gibraltar  rock  scorjtiftns  attached 
(o  the  hotel,  as  a  guide.  According  to  his  account  lln'  floating 
baths  were  magnificent.  Mohammed  himself  could  ask  nothing 
better.  The  first  was  moored  in  the  dock,  and  every  now  and 
then  .some  refuse  stuff  floated  by.     I  made  dcci<led  objections  to 


294  PPAIN     AM>    TIIK    SPAMAIU)S. 

tlio  locality;  tlw  otluM-  was  no  In'ttor.  The  vaK-l  expressed 
surprise  lliat  I  (li<l  not  fin<l  tlie  Avator  clean  enough,  as  he  and 
all  the  other  ijentlenien  at  the  hotel  hathed  there.  I  tohl  him 
that  there  was  nothing  about  which  <^cntlemen  differed  so  much 
as  l»athin<r.  hoth  as  to  the  quantity  of  the  water  and  its  quality, 
and  I  forthwith  stepped  into  a  hoat.  In  a  few  minutes  I  was 
in  the  hlue  water  of  tlu'  Meditcn-anean,  beyond  the  entrance  of 
the  ))ort,  enjoying  a  gull's  eye  view  of  the  scenery.  From  this 
point  one  has  the  finest  view  of  the  city  and  its  surroundings. 
On  every  side  is  the  noble  amphitheatre  of  mountains;  their 
base  covered  with  vineyai'cls  and  farm  lionses;  their  summits 
arjil  and  barren,  glistening  in  the  noonday  sun.  Midway  tip 
was  Colmenar,  and.  like  a  faint  tlireail,  the  road  to  I.oja, 
whence  the  views  of  the  Vega  of  Malaga  are  so  beaniilul.  The 
foreground  was  filled  up  with  the  <-ity,  tlanU^•(l  1>\-  the  moK-head 
and  the  Alcazaba.  The  huge  Cathedral  asserts  its  pre-eminence 
in  the  centre.  Every  traveller  shoiild  take  this  ])ros])ect,  as  it 
is  certainly  the  finest  thing  in  Malaga,  and  then  it  is  such  a 
jdeasure  to  be  in  the  salt  water  of  the  ti-o])ics,  knowing  at  the 
Bamc  time  that  there  is  not  a  shark  within  five  hundred  miles. 

I  had  already  once  made  the  journc}'  to  Granada  by  Albania 
and  returned  by  Loja,  both  of  which  arc  well  woi'th  travelling, 
the  former  for  its  general  interest,  the  latter  on  account  of  the 
lovely  views  of  the  Vega,  as  you  descend  in  the  evening  the 
Sierra  of  ('olmcnar — not  to  be  surpassed  in  Europe.  I  had 
therefore  thought  to  go  quietly  snoozing  in  the  diligence,  but 
in  the  fall  of  the  year  one  is  apt  to  count  without  his  host  in 
this  matter  on  all  the  front i«'rs  of  Sjiain.  for  the  places  are 
taken  months  aheail  by  ))ersons  ntuniing  from  springs  an<l 
bathing  places.  Such  was  the  case  now.  The  hotel  was 
crowded  with  guests  from  Carratraca — afamcms  mineral  sjiring 
in  the  luountaiiis  to  tlie  uoi-t ii-west — awaiting  tlicir  turn.  Fail- 
ing in  all  my  etl'orts  to  obtain  a  seat  in  the  public  conveyance, 
I  made  the  best  of  a  bad  cause,  arranged  for  two  horses ; 
bespoke  a  hotd  ;  saw  the  alt'oijas  or  saddle  bags  tilled  with  what 
turned  out  to  be  one  of  the  most  aboniiuaiile  meals  1  ever  ate, 
and  retired  to  rest. 

lieforc  dajdight  Diego  and  m3'sclf  were  off  on  the  road  which 
skirts  the  hills  along  the  Mediterranean  toward  Vcicz  ]\Ialaga. 
The  way  was  strewed  with  an  uninterrupted  succession  of 
donkeys  heavily  ladencd.     As  it  was  still  quite  dark,  that  is,  as 


JOURNEY   TO    ORANADA. — VEGA    OF    VEEEZ.  295 

dark  as  it  ever  gets  in  the  starry  clime  of  Andalusia,  we  were 
always  on  the  point  of  riini.inu:;  sonve  of  the  patient  animals 
down  ;  and  tlie  burden  of  one  of  them  coming  in  contact  with 
my  knee,  taught  me,  to  my  sorrow,  of  what  it  consisted — boxes 
of  those  dried  grapes  which  form  the  delight  of  all  American 
children,  here  called  by  the  classical  name  of  pasa.  The  recol- 
lections of  infancy  had  very  little  effect,  however,  in  assuaging 
the  pain  of  the  concussion.  As  day  broke,  the  donkey's  and 
dust  seemed  to  increase,  perhaps  because  rendered  visible. 
Every  mountain  path  added  its  contingent  to  swell  the  throng. 
Sometimes  the  road  descended  to  the  level  of  the  beach,  then 
mounted  again  to  cross  the  winter  torrents,  rios  secos  at  this  sea- 
son. Old  watch  towers  (atalayas),  built  hy  Moors  and  Chris- 
tians alike,  many  dating  even  from  irannibal  and  Caisar,  segun 
dicen,  were  strung  along,  some  of  them  improved  in  the  modern 
style  of  fortification,  as  outposts  for  the  carabineei's  of  the 
custom  house,  of  whom  we  met  from  time  to  time  a  ])atrol — 
good-looking  men,  well  armed  and  well  m()unte<l.  For  a  long 
distance  we  kept  the  city  in  sight  on  our  right;  on  our  left 
rose  the  Sierra,  crowned  with  vineyards  and  frequent  farm 
houses,  where  the  peasants  were  occupied  in  j)reparing  the 
pasa.  It  seemed  as  if  this  occupation  embraced  all  who  were 
not  engaged  in  driving  the  donkej's  to  the  city.  It  was  very 
pleasant  to  ride  along  the  Mediterranean,  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning,  in  the  midst  of  the  plenty  and  contentment  which  the 
vintage  season  ])roduces.  They  might  well  be  contented,  for 
of  all  the  gifts  of  heaven  to  man,  the  vine  is  the  most  beneficent. 
Its  culture  is  light,  and  in  its  train  follow  temperance,  health 
and  wealth,  a  wealth  too  of  which  they  cannot  be  deprived,  as 
it  depends  not  so  much  upon  the  wit  of  man  as  upon  the 
natural  gifts  of  soil  and  climate.  After  proceeding  three  or 
four  hours,  we  turned  into  the  Vega  of  Velez  Malaga,  which  is 
without  doubt  the  most  fertile  spot  in  Eurojie.  It  seemed  as 
though  there  was  not  room  for  the  products  of  its  soil.  Our 
own  staples  held  a  conspicuous  place;  maize,  sweet  potatoes, 
generally  eaten  here  as  a  preserve,  sugar  cane,  besides  the 
cereals  apjn-opriate  to  a  more  temperate  climate.  The  soil  is 
composed  entirelj'  of  the  washings  of  the  mountain  streams  for 
centuries,  and  is  naturally  fertile  in  the  extreme;  a<ld  to  this 
an  abundant  irrigation,  with  the  heat  of  a  .Sejtteniber  sun,  and 
its  exuberant  production  is  easily-  understood.     The  town  of 


296  SPAIN    AND    THE    Sl'AMAUIiS. 

Vclez,  with  its  wliiti-  castK'.  l»aekod  !•>•  tlio  naked  Sierra  TcJ^'du, 
f'onnc'd  a  bouiilirul  contrast  to  the  rich  green  of  the  valley. 
Traversing  a  fool  grove  on  the  lianUs  »»t'the  river,  wliere  ninue- 
roiis  families  ha<l  takrn  up  their  summer  residence,  we  entered 
the  city  and  proceeded' to  the  Posada,  where  1  to(d\  my  siesta, 
as  the  rest  of  the  Journey  hid  fair  to  he  as  hot  as  it  was  fatigu- 
ing. A  euj)  of  chocolate  and  an  (i;ii<-(irillo  refreshed  us,  and  a 
little  before  noon  we  started  again 

The  carriage  road  ceases  at  Veiez,  and  we  ascended  the 
spacious  dry  bed  of  the  little  stream,  penetrating  gradually 
into  the  mountain.  For  some  tinu^  the  aspect  of  the  country 
continues  the  same — vineyards  and  long  lilcs  of  donkeys  seek- 
ing the  shade  of  the  gigantic  aloes  and  cactus  liedges.  liy 
and  by  the  productions  of  a  tropical  climate  became  rai-er; 
the  road  a  mere  mountain  path,  crossing  precipit(>us  ravines 
on  Moorish  bridges,  and  winding  among  hamlets  that  seen\ed 
to  hang  upon  the  side  of  the  rock.  Diego  had  been  very 
talkative  all  the  morning,  so  long  as  we  could  ride  abreast;  but 
as  in  single  tile  he  was  reduceil  to  his  own  meililations.  which 
were  few,  sleep  asserted  her  empire.  I  first  discovered  the  fact 
by  seeing  his  horse  leave  the  i>ath  and  make  straight  for  a 
house  a  little  way  olf,  which  he  would  liave  entered,  had  not 
the  shouts  of  the  iistonislieil  females  within  awakened  the 
slumbering  l)iego.  Arrieros  sleep  anil  sleep  i>rolbun<lly  a  cou- 
sidei'alile  j)art  of  iheii'  Journeys.  They  tell  of  a  merchant, 
with  his  train,  who  arrived,  dozing  upon  a  mule,  at  the  village, 
upon  the  banks  <;f  the  Tagus.  by  the  usual  road  leading  over 
the  famous  bridge  of  Alcantara,  shortly  after  one  arch  of  that, 
structure  had  bet-n  blown  up  by  the  liritish,  he  himself  being 
ignorant  of  the  fict.  The  villagers  eoulil  not  believe  but  that 
the  bridge  had  been  magically  re])aired,  and  went  back  to  see, 
when  it  was  found  thai  a  nai'row  timber  had  been  laid  across 
the  break  for  the  goats.  When  the  |»oor  merchant  saw  the 
thread,  the  real  bridge  of  the  sword  {W  Kantar  al  Seif)  upon 
which  he  had  been  caiM'ied  two  hundi-ed  and  tifly  feet  above 
the  Ibaming  torrent,  his  hair  tui-neil  white.  Spanish  hoi-ses 
can  safely  be  trusted  in  this  manuiT  foi-,  l)eing  exceedingly  sure 
fooled,  they  go  as  safely  without  a  In-idle  as  with  one,  and  the 
high  peaked  saddles  assist  tlu-  rider  in  holdii\g  on.  Nature  has 
Uiiidly  disposed  thai  a  horsi'iiian's  ineinl>ei's  succumb  succes- 
sively in  proportion   to  the  necessity  for  their  continued  exer- 


THE    PAPS    OF    THE    TEJADA. THE    BULL.  297 

tioH.  First  tlio  muscles  of  tlie  neck  ;  llien  tlie  arms  ;  tlien  the 
back,  and  last  of  all  the  letjs;  such  1  believe  is  the  universal 
experience  of  horsemen.  Diego  maintained  that  liis  scat  was 
better  adapted  for  the  jmrpose  than  the  European.  Most  An- 
dalusians  while  on  a  journc}'  ride  a  la  ginete,  a  custom  derived 
from  the  Mooi-ish  cavalry,  who  rode  with  very  short  stii'rups, 
and  were  armed  with  an  (uhirgit  or  light  shield  and  a  lance. 
In  the  middle  ages  Si)anish  cavalry  were  divided  into  ra^tellanos 
and  ghutcs,  the  former  armed  in  full  with  heavy  lances  and 
long  stirrujis,  the  latter,  as  I  have  described,  which  was  uni- 
versal among  the  Moors, '' ginete,"  meaning  simply  a  horseman. 
Some  of  the  late  authors  on  cavalry  tactics  recommend  a 
pai-tial  return  to  this  manner  of  riding.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  the  present  method  in  the  British  army,  copied  by  them 
from  the  continent,  is  traceable  to  the  mail  clad  knights — the 
Castellanos  of  the  Spanish  tactics — who  could  scarcely  bend 
their  knees  on  horseback,  and  is  unsuited  to  the  present  age. 
The  other,  however,  is  as  great  an  extreme.  Reasonably  short 
stirru])s  are  of  course  desirable  for  a  swordsman,  but  it  seems 
to  me  that  they  involve  a  sacriHce  of  the  solidity  of  the  seat, 
and  that  an  adarga  and  light  lance  would  be  poor  matches 
for  the  mailed  armor  of  an  old  knight  or  even  the  modern 
cuirassier;  yet  the  exjierience  of  a  thousand  battle  lields  has 
proved  that  in  an  open  hand  to  hand  tight,  activity  and  free- 
dom of  movement  moi-e  than  counterbalance  the  mere  resist- 
ance of  armor,  and  the  Moors,  once  the  best  cavalry  in  the 
world,  and  now  excellent  horsemen,  retain  tlu'ir  short  stirrup. 
Diego,  however,  carried  his  ])oint  about  the  slee])ing. 

The  path  now  became  stee])er.  Flocks  of  sheep  liegan  to 
make  their  appearance  as  we  neared  the  summit  of  the  Sierra, 
and  the  view  behind  us  assumed  the  grand  proportions  I  have 
described  in  jiassing  from  Antequera  to  Malaga,  with  the  ad- 
vantage this  time  of  the  evening  sun  and  a  clearer  atmosphere, 
Avhich  brouglit  the  opposite  coast  of  Africa  into  full  view. 
J)escending  from  the  erest,  wo  entered  aiul  crossed  diagonally 
a  broad  level  valbn*  that  extended  a  considerable  distance  and 
was  covered  with  green,  which  a]>i)eared  doubly  beautiful  by 
contrast  with  tin-  bare  mountain  side  we  had  left.  Numerous 
flocks  and  bercls  wen*  grazing,  and  one  of  the  bulls  made  a 
show  of  attacking  us,  which  would  have  been  exceedingly 
inconvenient,  as   the  skill  of  a  bull   figbltr  does   not  come  b}^ 


298 


SPAIN    ANT)    TIIF.    .SPANIARDS. 


intuition,  and  tho  in(enso  liosit  and  hard  day's  ride  had  made  a 
visible  inipression  upon  our  animals.  ]iy  pushing  them  into  a 
trot  we  niana<;ed  to  put  a  preeipitous  gulley  between  our 
valuable  persons  and  his  taurine  majesty,  who  contented 
himseli'  with  roaring;  and  pawing  the  earth  at  us.  lie  was 
a  very  j^ood  lookin/^  beast  when  seen  acro-s  that  obstacle,  but 
I  eonli-'ss  1  was  not  sorry  to  lose  siijht  of  him.  Down  in  the 
plains  tlu'sc  embryo  heroes  of  the  bull  riiiix  sometimes  lijive  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  to  passers  by,  ]i;irti(iilarly  when  tiiey 
stray  away  from  the  herd,  as  this  one  had  done. 

We  soon  after  entered  a  tortuous  ravine  leadini;  over  tho 
northern  barrier  of  the  valley.  1  bad  loitered  behiml,  lost  in 
those  meditations  which  the  evening  bi-ings  upon  the  traveller 
in  strange  pai'ts,  when  1  was  aroused  from  my  reverie  liy  liie 
sudden  springing  from  the  road  side  of  a  most  unamiable-look- 
ing  man,  with  a  sledge  hanimer.  who  commenced  addressing 
me  in  a  strong  dialect  which  I  diil  not  very  well  comprehend. 
I  stopped,  and,  loosening  my  dagger,  entered  into  conversation. 
His  appearance  was  not  prei)ossessing,  but  1  thought  that  if  a 
good  five  inch  Toledo,  on  horseback,  was  not  equal  to  a  sle<lge 
hammer  on  foot,  it  was  time  to  stop  travelling.  He  wished  to 
know  if  I  had  passed  a  certain  friend  .of  his  prt)ceeiling  to  the 
fair  at  Aihaiiia.  1  had  seen  no  such  person,  nor  anything  like 
liim.  At  this  time  a  tui'n  in  the  ravine  brought  Diego  in  view, 
who  iiunie(liately  came  back  at  a  gallop  and  ])revenled  the 
denouement,  whatevei' that  was  to  be.  lie  scoIiKmI  nie  tor  slop- 
ping; said  that  the  fellow  looked  like  a  "mala  gente"  (bad 
people),  which  indeed  he  did;  that  the  Sierra  was  full  of  them, 
particularly  as  to-iiiorrow  was  to  be  a  fair,  and  called  my  at- 
tentifjii  to  a  cross  which  stood  near  by,  very  apropos  to  ])oint 
his  moral.  These  crosses  or //uYf/j/ro  Andaluz  (Andalusian  mir- 
acle) as  they  are  called,  ai-i'  erected  to  mark  the  spot  where 
per.son  has  been  found  mui'dered.  It  used  to  be  a  custom  for 
every  ])asser  by  to  throw  a  stone  upon  the  heap,  antl  to  otter 
uj)  a  short  ])rayer  foi-  the  peace  of  his  soul,  but  tiiis  custom  is 
going  out  of  fashion.  People  are  too  bu.sy  now-a-days.  They 
are  not  always  evidence  of  robbery,  for  love  and  jealousy  come 
in  for  at  least  a  half  I  am  son-y  to  sa}'  that  this  was  ni}' 
nearest  api)roach  to  the  pleasure  of  being  robbed  and  buried 
under  a  wayside  cross;  and  half  of  the  terrific,  petrifying,  hair- 
elongating  i-ecitals  that  grace  the  books  of  travellers,  have  very 


ALIIAMA. — rOSADA. — THE    FAIR.  299 

little  moi'o  fonndntioii.  From  tlio  top  of  the  crest  the  eity  of 
Alhaina  appeaixnl  overspread  with  the  roseate  hue  of  sunset. 
To  the  north  and  east  were  the  loft}'  mountains  of  (Jranada 
and  the  man}-  jieaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  On  every  side 
extended  the  spurs  that  sprino;  from  these  ehnins.  Gi-andly. 
did  they  repose  in  their  solitude.  Dismountiui;-,  we  led  our 
horses  down  the  steep  descent,  and  after  a  half  hour's  walk, 
were  in  the  precipitous  strec^ts  ot  this  romantic  gate  to  the  old 
kingdom  of  (Jranada. 

I  proceeded  directly  to  a  house  wIkm'c  I  had  heen  entertained 
on  the  previous  visit  witli  good  humor  and  clean  sheets,  if  not 
with  elegant  fare  in  other  respects.  But  the  famil}"  had  moved 
away  and  the  present  occupants  were  not  disposed  to  be  hospi- 
table. After  one  or  two  other  fruitless  attempts,  we  nerved  up 
our  minds  to  try  the  Posadi — a  place  to  be  avoided  in  a  crowd 
such  as  at  present  thronged  the  little  city.  Pushing  my  way 
through  the  kitchen  and  among  the  n\ules,  I  mounted  to  the 
first  stor}^  to  view  the  accommodations.  Slender  they  were, 
but  the  liest — an  uneven  brick-paved  room,  Avith  one  chair  and 
a  porthole  for  a  window,  by  which  J  took  a  seat  until  Diego 
had  put  away  the  cattle.  This  accomj)lished,  he  made  his 
appearance  with  Juana,  the  daughter  of  the  family,  who  united 
in  her  small  person  the  weighty  functions  of  chambermaid, 
cashier  and  housekeeper.  Juana  was  titleen  oi-  thereabouts; 
not  pretty,  but  brisk  and  talkative,  and  disposed  to  render 
herself  agreeable  as  well  as  useful.  I  complained  that  the 
house  contained  nothing,  not-  even  chinches.  *'Si,  si,  las  hay! 
hay  todol  ha}' toilo!"  and  she  was  not  altogether  wrong.  A 
ricketty  table  was  brought  first;  then  a  graixl  consultation  was 
held  as  to  the  sleeping  apparatus.  It  was  finally  concluded  to 
make  a  pallet  upon  the  floor,  as  the  best  means  of  cheating 
thosie  travellers'  enemies  tl^at  lurk  in  the  iiiding  places  of  bed- 
"steads,  and  of  which  I  have  a  wholesome  horror.  iS'ext,  fuipper 
was  brought  up,  in  the  best  style  of  Albania  cookery.  1  will 
not  venture  to  say  how  much  garlic  and  oil  it  contained,  nor 
how  palatable  it  was  after  the  journey.  I  ate  in  state,  sur- 
rounded by  the  landlady,  Juana  and  Diego.  The  latter  was  in 
his  element,  delighted  to  have  sometliing  to  do.  lie  informed 
me  privately  that  he  was  glad  we  had  faile<l  in  obtaining  lodg- 
ings at  the  other  houses,  as  he  would  not  iiave  felt  himself  at 
liberty  to  order  about  as  he  did  here.     The  conversation  turned 


oOO  SPAIN     AM)    TlIK    Sl'AMAKKS. 

upon  the  annual  fair,  wliicli  was  t>  commence  to-morrow  and 
to  last  three  days.  The  town  was  already  thronc^od,  and  a 
liusy  time  was  expected.  Having  received  with  due  humility 
the  compliments  (»f  the  hostess  upon  my  practical  appreciation 
of  her  culinary  skill  (your  mistress  of  the  Posada  likes  to  see 
j'ou  eat  heartily  of  her  viands;  it  is  always  a  strong  point  in 
your  favor,  and  shows  that  you  know  what  is  good — a  Spaniard 
of  taste),  1  sallied  forth  to  see  the  world. 

The  situation  of  .Mliaina  is  superlt;  cvidciilly  intended  hy 
nature  to  he  what  it  was,  a  fortress  tt)wii  in  the  days  iicfore  the 
invention  of  gunpowder.  On  three  sides  it  is  ahnost  impregna- 
lijc;  one  of  tiicni  is  upon  liie  <l('cp  cleft  in  (lie  mountain  ritlge, 
through  which  the  ^[archan  foams  and  lioijs — a  scene  of  savage 
graMfiiMir.  As  the  moonlight  illuminated  its  recesses  and 
brought  its  old  Moorish  mills  and  ruined  walls  into  relief,  it 
required  little  imagination  to  see  the  spirits  of  the  warrior 
Marquis  of  Cadiz  and  his  turhaned  op])onents  wandering  over 
the  theatre  of  their  romantic  exploits.  The  Plaza  above  was 
lined  with  booths,  in  front  of  which  were  collected  numerous 
grou))S,  buying,  singing,  or  dancing,  as  the  fancy  took  them, 
(xuitars  were  numerous,  some  of  tlioni  in  the  hands  of  no  mean 
performers.  I  do  not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  a  finer  book- 
ing set  of  men;  of  tlic  medium  height,  well  and  actively  made, 
and.  what  is  lietter  still,  well  behaved  ;  no  drunkenness,  no 
quarrelling,  though  it  is  very  ]»roliable  that  many  knives  were 
drawn  before  the  three  days  had  passed.  A  Tier  ranililiiig  about 
sufliciently  to  satisfy'  my  curiosity,  passing  a  word  here  and 
taking  a  jxiitdl  thei-e.  for  s(K'iability  reigns  on  such  occasions,  T 
returned  to  the  i'osada.  Tlu'  soiiml  of  nieri'inu'nt  saliiteil  my 
I'ars  on  entering.  The  room  below,  wliicb  sei'ved  the  threefold 
pui'jiose  oi'  kitchen,  blacksmith  shop  and  ])arlor,  had  been 
cleaned,  and  a  fandango  was  in  full  blast,  witii  all  the  fire  of 
the  unc<»iM'U]»tcd  Andalusian,  .luana,  the  nbi(iuitous  .luana,  and 
a  3'oung  gallant,  by  name  .lorge,  being  the  artists.  Juana  was 
fleeing  fnnn  bis  enticements,  Jorge  pursued,  Juana  relented, 
Jorge  was  but  too  hapjw.  .luana  was  startled  again  into  flight, 
and  so  the  miniature  ballet  continued,  when  at  length  Juana 
could  resist  no  longer,  and  sui-rendered  to  her  yiertinacious 
besieger.  The  audience  vociferously  expressed  their  gratifica- 
tion, and  a  bail  storm  of  hats  fell  at  the  feet  of  the  dancers, 
•luana   then   }>asseil   around  the  circle,  giving  us  the  customary 


THE    BATHS.  301 

embrace,  a  dreadfully  faint  one,  the  only  artificial  part  of  the 
performance.  If  the  exhibition  was  without  the  linished  ele- 
gance of  the  stai;'e,  it  had  been  much  mow  nat  urally  danced, 
and  in  the  true  spii-it.  After  leaving  the  room  lielow,  1  sat  for 
a  long  time  by  my  window,  looking  out  upon  the  various  com- 
panies of  cloaked  screnaders  that  passed  up  and  down  the 
street  upon  their  mission  of  love.  The  twanging  of  guitars  and 
the  clicking  of  castagnettes  continued  past  midniglit,  and  it  is 
probable  that  the  dawn  surprised  many  a  reveller  still  abroad. 
All  of  our  countrymen  have  read  Irving's  Chronicle  of  the 
Conquest  of  Granada,  and  consequently  know  how  Albania 
was  surprised  and  taken,  and  how  profound  an  impression  its 
loss  made  upon  the  Moors.  They  will  remember  also  the  dolo- 
rous ballad  composed  upon  the  occasion,  commencing 

Paseabase  el  rc-y  Mi)ro, 

which  Li)rii  Byron  translated.  Its  effect  upon  tlie  Moriscoes 
was  such  that  like  the  IJanz  des  Vaches  among  the  Swiss  m 
foi-eign  service,  it  was  forbidden  to  be  sung  aftei-  the  conquest, 
and  has  never  been  printed.  In  1S.')2  I  wrote  back  to  a  descen- 
dant of  the  Moors,  who  had  acted  as  my  guide,  to  send  me  a 
copy,  which  he  did,  ap])roj)riatel3*  surrounded  with  a  mourning 
border  and  in  a  mourning  envelope. 

Daylight  the  next  morning  found  us  descending  the  zigzag 
path  that  leads  into  the  valley  of  the  Marchan.  On  the  oppo- 
site hill,  beyond  the  ravine  to  the  left,  was  the  Calvario  or 
Calvary,  a  universal  ornament  of  Spanish  tovv'ns.  Some  place 
in  the  city  of  peculiar  sanctit_y  is  selected  as  the  commencement 
of  the  via  crucis — generally'  a  church;  in  Seville  it  is  the  House 
of  Pilate;  the  several  stations  of  the  Passion  are  marked  by  a 
cross,  and  the  spot  of  the  Crucifixion  by  three.  Some  person 
was  performing  his  devotions  at  one  of  them  as  we  passed. 
AVas  he  asking  an  exemption  from  the  temptations  which  the 
business  of  buying  and  selling  offers  to  the  unwary  sinner?  or 
was  it  that  he  might  not  fall  into  the  hands  of  honest  thieves, 
who  lurk  about  in  the  j)i'accful  garli  of  hoi-se  tradcrsy  It  would 
almost  require  a  special  interposition  of  Piovidcnce  to  protect 
him  from  either  danger,  whether  of  clu-ating  or  lieing  cheated 
on  such  an  occasion.  We  did  n(»t  go  out  of  our  way  to  visit 
the  baths  of  Albania,  as  1  liad  seen  them  once  before  The 
word  alhama  means  "bath"  in  Araliic.  and  very  little  im])rovc- 


.'>02  si'AiN  AMI  Tin;  SPAM  Aims. 

inont  lias  Itccn  iiiaiio  in  the  accommodations  since  the  days  of 
the  Moors.  Their  successors  have  retained  the  substance  as 
well  as  the  name  unchanixcd.  Tlie  water  is  said  to  be  highly 
benert<-ial,  but  lew  resort  thitlicr  except  invalids,  as  the  means 
of  a]ti»r<)a(ii  require  tiiat  the  journey  should  be  made  on  horse- 
back. So  crossini^  the  river  on  a  romantic  Moorish  bridge, 
just  before  it  enters  the  rocky  cliffs  that  close  in  here  upon  its 
banks,  we  ascended  the  Siei-ra  whicli  separates  its  valley  from 
that  of  the  Cacin.  The  view  of  Alhama  and  the  Sierra  that 
towers  behind  it  was  ver}-,  very  fine.  To  borr<»w  the  imagery  of 
an  old  Andalusian  poet,  "morning  had  gone  i-ound  like  a  cup- 
bearer, and  from  the  vase  of  light  in  her  hand  had  copiouslj' 
poured  forth  the  day."  The  summits  of  the  Nevatla  and  the 
Tejada  were  already  brilliantly  illuminated  by  the  sun,  but  its 
light  had  not  yot  reached  the  city,  which  slumbered  upon  the 
mountain  side.  Its  narrow,  precipitous  streets  could  no  longer 
be  distinguished;  the  white  walls  alone  were  visible,  and  it 
seemed  an  eagle's  eyry  susjiended  beyond  the  reach  of  man.  A 
few  liuiidreil  sti'jis  more  lost  it  to  our  sight,  and  substituted  in 
its  ])lace  the  green  vallc}'  of  Cacin  anil  the  snowy  peak  of 
Almuhacen,  which  was  to  be  our  beacon  until  we  reached  the 
city  of  Jaen,  1  may  almost  say  (lie  hespena  Perros.  t)n  the 
way  down  I  stoj)ped  to  talk  with  a  shepherd,  at  whose  feet 
reclined  two  fine  dogs.  'JMiree  others  were  ci'ouched  among 
the  fidck.  Tlu'V  were  beaulifiil  aiiitiials.  oi'  the  medium  size, 
with  smooth,  soft  hair,  and  exceedingly  intelligent  counten- 
ances. He  was  willing  to  ])art  with  them  at  two  dollars  a 
piece,  and,  hail  it  been  convenii'nt  to  Iransjxirt  t  lieni  to  A  in  erica, 
I  should  have  yielded  to  the  temptation  of  purchasing  a  i)air. 
At  night  the  sheep  are  gathered  togethei",  and  all  the  fold  sur- 
rounded with  a  rope  stretclieil  on  stakes.  The  dogs  seem  tacitly 
to  divide  among  themselves  the  duty  (d'  walking  around  it  from 
time  to  time,  'l^hey  are  fully  as  powerful  as  a  woli'and  almost 
as  fierce  when  aroused.  On  my  previous  visit,  while  mounting 
tlie  Sieri'a  <le  Alhama  toward  the  close  of  the  first  <iay's  journe}', 
I  had  bei'U  struck  with  the  grai-el'ul  attitude  of  one  near  the 
roadside.  Si-eiiig  that  we  had  stojipcd  to  look  at  hin>,  he  arose 
slowly  and  walked  away  with  an  air  of  olfended  dignity,  as 
though  he  wished  to  express  his  dissatisfaction  with  our  imper- 
tinent curiosity.  The  incident  was  insignificant,  but  thei-e  was 
a  majesty  about  his  manner  which  seemed  almost  human,  and 


THE    SICK    MORTSCO. — TANTALIZING    DREAM.  303 

impressed  itself  on  my  memory.  I  mtule  frequent  inquiries 
about  tlie  orijjjin  of  tlie  breed,  hut  no  one  could  enlii^hten  mo, 
nor  did  it  :i])pear  that  any  particular  care  had  been  taken  to 
improve  it. 

Thus  far  we  had  enjoyed  the  coni]);niionship  of  a  person  who 
in  outward  appearance  would  have  worthily  passed  for  a 
descendant  of  Boabdil  himself  The  Moorish  cast  of  his  fea- 
tures was  heightened  b}'  the  pallor  of  disease.  He  was  return- 
ing from  the  baths  of  Albania.  A  long  white  garment,  a  sort 
of  bournous,  covered  the  greater  part  not  only  of  himself,  but 
of  his  donkey,  leaving  onl}'  the  face  exposed.  An  athletic 
peasant  conducted  the  animal.  Such  a  companion  was  not 
inappropriate  to  the  scene  and  its  traditions.  He  lell  us  at 
Cacin,  and  our  road  crossing  the  valley  and  ascending  the 
op])osite  hill  entered  a  countiy  uninteresting  in  the  extreme — 
a  bare,  undulating  plain,  surrounded  by  mountain  ranges.  It 
produced,  however,  capital  gi-ain  crops.  The  sun  came  down 
with  an  intensity  that  defies  description,  and  one  of  our  horses 
having  received  a  sort  of  sun  stroke  the  day  previous,  it  was 
necessary  to  travel  slowly.  Diego  went  to  slec]) ;  I  concluded 
to  follow  his  exam])le.  AVhat  became  of  his  thoughts,  I  know 
not;  mine  wandered  home  to  the  old  plantation.  I  dreamed 
m^-self  once  more  a  boy,  pla3'ing  under  the  nolde  forest  trees 
that  border  its  lake.  Birds  sung  in  their  branches,  and  squir- 
rels skipped  playfully  about  their  venerable  roots,  Avhile  a 
Southern  breeze  rippled  gently  over  the  water.  The  sound  of 
many  oaths,  classical  and  unclassical,  arousing  me  from  my 
slumbers,  dispelled  the  illusion.  It  was  the  dream  of  the  fever- 
tossed  patient,  who  babbles  of  mountains  and  gushing  streams, 
for  nothing  could  be  in  stronger  contrast  than  the  scene  of  my 
vision  and  the  reality  around.  Water  there  was  none,  nor  did 
a  single  tree  enliven  the  prospect ;  on  every  side  extended  an 
arid  plain,  bounded  by  stern,  gloom\-  Sierras.  Except  for  a 
few  dust  brown  villages  and  a  narrow  pathwaj',  it  might  have 
been  the  morning  after  tlie  creation.  Our  horses  had  taken 
the  wrong  fork,  and  were  nearly  at  the  foot  of  Kl  Ultimo 
Suspiro  del  Moro  (the  last  sigh  of  the  Moor),  a  hillock  so  called 
because  the  unfortunate  King  of  (Iranarla,  or  perhnps  the 
bani.shc'd  Moriscoes  at  a  later  date,  are  said  to  havr  here  taken 
a  last  view  of  the  fairy  home  over  which  the  proud  flag  of 
Castile   was  now  floating.     Crossing  the  fields,  Ave  re-entered 


304  si'AiN    AM»  Tin:  Sl'AMAUnS. 

our  path  near  ilie  villai^e  ot'  (iarvia.  whose  environs  seonuMl 
Vjlcssed  with  an  unusual  number  of  nuirder  crosses,  most  of 
tliem,  however,  (latinix  from  the  earlier  part  of  the  centnrv — 
the  la'est  one  (alM)ut  two  years  ohl)  hearini^  an  indiz^iiant 
inscription.  Wiihin  the  villa«jjc  all  was  festivity,  as  it  was  the 
feast  of  the  jiatron  saint.  Half  the  population,  in  clean  shirts, 
were  asseinhled  hefore  the  church.  Various  uniforms  apjieared. 
A  p;irtv  (»f  hoys,  with  musical  instruments,  were  jiaradiiit;  a  fat 
hla<-U  jiorki'r  throu-fh  the  street  on  his  way  to  the  ho:^  lottery. 
lie  was  eviilcnti}'  the  centre  upon  which  the  feast  was  to  turn, 
and  the  eyes  of  the  ticket  hohh'rs  already  feasted  upon  him, 
as,  flutterini;  his  party-colored  ribhons,  he  grunted  along  to  his 
fate.  The  (iarvians  were  evidently  hcnt  upon  having  a  gay 
time,  and  I  have  regretted  ever  since  that  I  did  not  stop  and 
take  a  chance  for  the  animal.  Hog  lotteries  are  a  thing  ])ecu- 
liar  to  S|»ain,  and  a  village  feast  without  a  pig  would  he  the 
play  of  Ilandet  with  the  part  of  Ilandet  left  out.  Days  hefore 
the  eventful  period  he  is  subjected  to  the  ocular  investigation 
of  all  who  can  see,  and  the  blind,  a  numerous  class  in  Spain, 
who  cannot  see,  punch  him  with  their  sticks  to  ascertain  if  his 
ribs  are  well  covered  and  his  lungs  in  a  healthy  condition.  The 
Spaniards  are  great  lovers  of  bacon  in  every  shape,  partly,  it 
has  been  thought,  to  distinguish  them  from  .lews  and  ^ruham- 
medans,  who  abhor  the  unclean  beast.  That  which  is  i'cd  upon 
the  hrllofa  of  Andahisia  and  h]st reinadura  is  unrivalled,  and  the 
sweet  hams  from  the  neighboring  mountain  of  the  AI|iujaiTas 
enjoy  a  Huro]iean  re])utation. 

Leaving  the  Uarvians  and  theii'  ]iig.  wc  enteri'<l  the  i-ange  of 
lofty  hills  that  b(nind  the  valley  of  the  (Jeiiil  to  the  south-east. 
At  length  we  emerged  on  the  western  side  of  the  elevation, 
and  turning  a  slioiilder  of  the  /owirt,  (Iranada  and  its  glorious 
environs  lay  in  the  distance  before  us.  l^arth.  air  and  water, 
and  we  may  com])lete  tbi'  list  of  the  elements  by  adding  the 
solar  fire,  had  done  tlicii-  ]i;irt.  All  bad  worthily  contributed 
to  unite,  within  the  S})ace  ola  few  leagues,  most  of  the  external 
charms  of  existence,  and  to  cn-ate  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sj)ots  in  the  world.  To  the  right  and  left  extended  the  famous 
\'ega,  from  the  base  of  Almuhacen  to  Loja,  its  surface  ever 
green  in  the  midst  of  drought,  for  its  fertility  is  derived  from 
a  perennial  source.  In  the  winter,  while  the  snows  (»f  the 
mountains  are  congealed,  the  benignant   heavens  send  down 


CHARMINO    EFFECT    OF    COLD    -WATER.  "05 

tlieir  gentle  showers.  In  the  summer,  when  for  six  months  no 
drop  of  rain  falls  upon  the  parched  earth,  the  meltinn-  ice  of 
the  Sierras  kindlj-  supplies  the  deficiency  of  the  seasons,  and 
the  Ye!J!;a  blooms  Avith  increased  hixuriance.  Diagonal!}^  across 
the  broad  valley,  through  tlie  blue  haze,  reclined  the  ballad- 
sung  city,  embosomed  in  gardens  and  vinej^ards,  its  dun,  red- 
dish castle  above  the  trees  hardly  distinguished  from  the  hills 
that  formed  the  back  ground. 

Que  castillos  son  a(iuellos  ? 
Altc)s  son  y  reluoian. 

El  Alharabra  era,  Seiior, 
Y  la  otra  la  Mezquita, 
Los  otros  los  Alijares, 
Labrados  a  inaravilla. 

El  otro  is  Geucralife, 
Iluerta  quo  par  no  tenia. 
El  otro  Torres  Bcrmejas 
Castillo  de  gran  valia. 

Si  tu  quisieses  Granada, 
Contigo  mo  casaria 
Dareto  in  arras  y  dote, 
A  Cordoba  y  a  Sevilla. 

Casada  soj',  rey  Don  Juan, 
Casada  soy,  que  no  viuda, 
El  moro  que  a  mi  me  ticnc 
Muy  grando  bicn  me  tenia. 

The  thousand  canals  sparkled  in  the  midday  light,  but  whore- 
ever  irrigation  ceased  the  bare  hill  side  rose  precipitously  in 
liarrenness;  a  dozen  paces  frcquentl}'  sufficed  to  mark  the 
transition  from  a  land  overflowing  with  every  production  of 
the  tropic  and  teinperate  zones,  to  naked  sterility  itself  Above 
all  was  spread  the  pure  panopl}-  of  a  Spanish  sk}",  so  unfath- 
on\ably  deep  and  blue,  the  few  healthy  clouds  that  floated 
over  seeming  thousands  of  miles  removed  into  eternal  space. 
AVe  soon  descended  into  the  Vega,  and  pursued  our  way  across 
amid  the  humming  of  insects  and  the  sound  of  rushing  waters. 
Those  who  live  in  a  country  of  large  streams  and  continual 
showers  know  not  tlie  pleasure  which  water  confers.  With  us 
it  is  a  fluid  for  practical  purjioses,  to  drink,  to  wash  with,  or  to 
sail  upon;  but  in  Spain  it  is  more,  it  is  the  source  of  fertility, 
of  wealth  and  comfort.  It  is  inseparably^  connected  with  tlie 
Andalusian  idea  of  pleasure;  is  a  centre  of  association.  It 
thus  quickly  assumes  the  hue  of  poetry,  and  ballads  are  sung 
21 


300  SPAIN    ANI>    TUK    SPANIARDS. 

to  its  honor.  The  well  liy  the  wayside  and  the  fountain  in 
the  city,  are  yet  in  Spain  wliat  they  were  in  the  days  of  the 
Old  Testament,  and  to  appreciate  to  its  full  extent  the  exqui- 
site poetry  of  the  Hebrews,  or  the  charming  simplicit}'  of  their 
illustrations,  one  should  have  s6journed  south  of  the  Sierra 
Morena.  It  required  the  desert  of  the  morning  to  make  me 
feel  the  full  charms  of  noonday  on  the  banks  of  the  Cienil. 
Exchanging  salutations  with  crowds  of  peasants,  the  men  in 
half  Moorish,  half  Spanish  dress,  the  women  in  the  glories  of  a 
red  petticoat,  we  approached  the  city,  and  crossing  the  river  at 
the  foot  of  the  shady  Salon,  entered  about  two  o'clock  the 
court  of  tlic  hotel,  where  I  found  my  baggage  awaiting  me  in 
a  cliarming  apartment,  which  commanded  a  full  view  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada. 


Chapter  X  \'1  I. 
GRANADA. 

Bull  Fight — Cruelty — Promenades — The  Inhabitants — Jloorish  Blood — Alhambra 
— The  Hand  and  the  Key — Palio  de  la  Alberca — Dc  Los  Leone? — Tocador — Res- 
torations— View  from  the  Torre  de  la  Vela — The  Vega — Generalife — The  Caihe- 
dral — Chapel  of  the  Kings — The  Cartuja — San  Juan  De  Dios — Old  Streets — 
Albaycin — The  Gipsies — The  Danee — Expulsion  of  the  Mjriscoes — Romantic 
Character  of  their  Wars — Origin  of  Chivalry — Pundonor. 

As  a  Vrnll  fi<;-lit  was  to  take  place  that  afternoon,  I  dressed  in 
a  hurry  and  made  my  wa}'  to  the  Plaza  de  Toros,  where  I  was 
certain  to  find  the  world  of  Granada.  The  direction  was  un- 
erringly indicated  by  the  immense  throngs  that  pursued  the 
streets  leading  toward  it.  A  great  crowd  surrounded  the 
outside  of  the  building;  some  talking,  some  selling  tickets, 
others  the  fans  which  are  used  only  upon  such  occasions,  made 
of  yellow  paper  and  costing  one  cent.  Xor  was  the  aguador 
or  water  seller  absent.  There  was  much  moving  to  and  fro. 
mingled  with  a  vast  amount  of  standing  still.  It  was  a  com- 
bination of  militia  muster,  county  court  week  and  Fourth  of 
July.  Being  late,  I  had  to  content  m3-self  with  a  seat  among 
the  sovereigns ;  on  m}-  left  a  Sergeant  of  Cazadorcs,  on  m}^ 
right  a  dame  not  over  fair  nor  young  nor  graceful.  ]Jehind 
me  were  several  well  dressed  people,  one  of  whom  turned  out 
to  be  a  critic,  fullj'  saturated  with  Granadian  "sal"  (salt),  by 
no  means  a  refined  article,  though  very  salty,  or  as  we  would 
sa}',  'spicy."  The  Cuadrilla  was  the  same  tiiat  I  had  met 
about  in  Andalusia,  and  was  to  meet  again  in  Madrid — tliat  of 
Sanchez  (called  El  Tnto).  who  ranks  among  the  best  Espadas 
of  Spain.  He  is  rather  under  the  me<liuni  height,  exceedingly 
graceful  and  with  a  face  of  girlish  innocence.  The  perform- 
ance was  not  very  good.  Tato  made  a  particularly  bungling 
business  in  killing  one  of  the  animals.     The  critic  behind,  who 


308  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIAUDS. 

pronounced  his  running  comnicntar}-  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
kept  calling  out  "  Vergucnza,  Tatol  Domingucz  le  hubicra  ya 
matado  y  olvdado"  (for  shame  Tato,  Doniinguez  wouM  have 
already  killed  and  forgotten  him).  Domingucz  is  a  rival 
Torero,  and  from  the  continued  severit}'  of  my  neighbor's 
critique,  I  began  to  suspect  that  he  was  in  the  interest  of  the 
other  jiarty.  However,  he  did  full  justice  to  Tato,  when,  on 
another  occasion,  throwing  a  bespangled  cloak  over  his  shoul- 
ders, he  entered  the  ring  with  the  ehulos.  The  bull  was  per- 
fectly fresh  and  made  frantic  efforts  to  gore  him,  but  in  vain. 
Tato  quietly  stepped  aside,  lifting  tiie  cloak  over  the  bull's 
t'3'es,  who  would  turn  raging  around  to  repeat  the  operation 
with  like  success.  It  was  a  very  prett}'  sight  and  the  amphi- 
theatre resounded  with  shouts  of  ''Viva  el  Tatol  viva  la 
gracia !"  One  of  the  Picadors  came  in  for  his  full  share  of 
abuse  because  be  held  his  spear  too  sliori.  The  first  five  bulls 
afforded  no  new  incident,  and  I  would  not  have  mentioned  the 
tight  at  all,  were  it  not  for  i\n  exhibition  of  the  most  infernal 
liarbai'ity  and  cruelty  I  ever  beheld.  The  sixth  bull  had  died 
on  the  way  from  Seville,  and  his  place  was  supplied  with  one 
from  the  locality.  lie  turned  out  a  regular  coward,  or  rather 
he  seemed  indisposed  to  hurt  any  one.  As  soon  as  it  was 
ascertained  that  he  would  not  fight,  under  anj'  circumstances, 
it  was  deternxincd  to  kill  him  a  polos.  At  last  a  hundred  per- 
sons jumped  into  the  ring,  and,  by  the  aid  of  sticks,  pieces  of 
jilank  and  what  not,  the  poor  devil  was  actually  beatcfi  to 
death.  My  disgust  nearly  boiled  over  as  I  left  the  place.  But 
this  was  a  rare  excepti<m,  and  I  do  not  think  it  would  have 
been  permitted  elsewhere.  The  lower  classes  of  Granada  are 
famed  throughout  Spain  for  their  coarseness  and  brutality, 
(qualities  that  they  pnjbably  owe  to  their  seini-Moorisli  ances- 
try. The  Cuadrilla  were  staying  at  our  hotel,  and  though  not 
very  refined  in  their  manners,  they  certainly  gave  no  indica- 
tion of  cruelty  or  brutality  of  disposition.  Of  course  they  had 
taken  no  part  in  killing  the  bull  d  jxdos.  The  old  method  used 
to  be  to  introduce  dogs,  or  to  hamsiriug  the  bull  with  an  in- 
strument called  a  incdia  (una,  or  half  moon,  a  sharp  edged 
crescent,  placed  upon  a  spear  stall*.  Authors  exclaim  warmly 
against  both.  One  of  them  even  says  that  the  rnedia  luna  must 
have  been  the  invention  of  a  heretic  !  I  have  seldom  seen 
cither  used.     Bandcr'dlos  de  fueyo   arc   generally   substituted, 


PROMENAT>r.S. — THE    PEOPLE.  309 

and  an  announcement  is  frequently'  made  on  the  bill  to  that 
effect.  If  it  be  necessaiy  to  remove  a  bull  from  the  rinji;,  it 
can  be  ver}'  easily  accomplished  1)y  introducin*:;  oxen;  for  half 
a  dozen  oxen  will  lead  a  whole  regiment  of  bulls  in  any 
direction. 

As  the  evening  advanced  I  found  myself  on  the  banks  of  the 
Darro,  in  the  midst  of  a  throng  of  promenaders.  The  public 
walks  of  Granada  are  worth}^  of  its  situation.  The  river 
Genii,  taking  its  rise  in  the  eternal  snows  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
courses  southwesterly  down  the  Vega,  almost  touching  the 
hills,  upon  Avhosc  slopes  the  city  is  built.  Nearly  at  right 
angles  on  the  north  comes  the  Darro,  resembling  rather  a  tor- 
rent, which,  threading  the  ravine  that  separates  the  Alhambra 
and  the  Albaycin,  traverses  the  city,  going  under  the  Plaza 
Nueva,  and  unites  with  the  Genii  before  the  latter  leaves  the 
city  limits.  On  the  banks  of  the  one  is  the  Carrcra  del  Darro 
running  past  the  hotels,  theatre  and  cafe  to  the  Genii.  The 
latter  rejoices  in  the  Salon,  one  of  the  finest  walks  imaginable. 
True  it  has  no  GuadaUpiivir,  nor  does  it  possess  that  inde- 
scribable charm  which  hangs  over  marvellous  Seville,  but  it 
need  fear  no  other  rival.  The  trees  are  noble,  resembling- 
more  the  productions  of  our  own  forest  than  the  stunted  dwarfs 
of  Europe.  Stone  seats  and  marble  statues  ornamented  its 
avenues,  and  alongside  fretted  the  icy  river,  while  the  silvery 
beams  of  the  moon,  struggling  through  the  arched  foliage, 
threw  a  subdued  light  over  the  variegated  groups,  who,  in  easy 
conversation,  glided  past.  The  Granadinas  are  pronounced 
"  rauy.  finas" — partly  because  of  the  rh3'me  and  partly  because 
it  is  the  truth.  They  are  certainly  entitled  to  a  place  in  the 
front  rank  of  Andalusians,  and  there  is  among  them  a  much 
larger  proportion  of  blondes  than  is  gencrallj'  to  be  found  in 
Spain.  The  higher  ranks,  at  least  the  lew  I  have  met,  resemble 
those  of  Seville  and  Cordova,  but  the  lower  arc  a  great  mix- 
ture. Elsewhere  in  Andalusia  there  is  by  no  means  so  great 
an  infusion  of  Moorish  blood  as  is  generally  su]»posed.  The 
Saracens,  like  the  Goths,  swept  over  it,  seizing  the  go'sw^rn- 
ment,  but  leaving  the  original  population  almost  undisturbed. 
After  the  battle  of  CJiiadaletc,  the  latter,  having  occupied  it 
some  three  centuries,  retired  to  the  north-west,  and  the  former 
took  their  place  during  the  next  five,  the  bulk  of  the  lower 
classes,  in  both  instances,  being  still  of  the  mixed  character 


810  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPAMARPS. 

which  formed  the  substrnliiiu  throughout  the  Uonian  Empire. 
Upon  tlie  rccoiKpiost  of  tlic  v:illey  of  the  (luathihiuivir.  the 
great^r  ])art  of  the  Mohammechma  withdrew  to  Africa  or  to 
such  parts  of  Spain  as  still  remained  in  the  power  of  their 
hrethren.  IJut  Granada  was  very  ditlerently  situated.  Even 
under  the  ^foorish  domination  there  was  much  comminglement 
of  races,  which  was  greatly  increased  during  the  century  sub- 
sequent to  the  conquest  bj^  the  Catholic  kings.  The  pure 
Moorish  style  of  beauty  is  not  to  my  taste.  It  is  striking,  but 
the  contrasts  are  too  sharply  defined.  The  features  do  not 
melt  into  each  other,  as  is  the  case  in  the  Spanish  countenance. 
The  best  specimens' I  have  seen  were  at  Tarifa.  Those  in 
Africa  itself  may  be  handsome,  but  they  are  not  visible,  while 
the  TarifenMs  leave  one  half  of  the  face  exposed.  Thoy  have 
tine  eyes,  yet  the  expression  is  without  that  no  sc  que  which 
renders  the  Spanish  maiden  irresisstible.  It  pierces  rather 
than  captivates,  and  evinces  curiosity  rather  than  love.  But  the 
men  of  pure  Moorish  blood  are  as  fine  a  looking  race  as  can  be 
found,  exceeding!}'  well  made  and  with  an  appearance  of  great 
muscular  power.  The  violent  prejudice  still  entertained  by 
the  Spaniards  against  any  admixture  of  Arab  or  Jewish  blood, 
has  certainly  very  little  foundation  in  reason,  and  meets  no 
sympath}''  in  other  ]iarts  of  Europe.  They  are  both  of  the 
true  Caucasian  stock,  of  which  they  have  given  abundant 
proofs  intellectually,  and  certain!}-  if  piii-ity  of  descent  is  any 
recommendation, ^thc}' are  entitled  to  it,  for  no  other  nations 
have  preserved  their  integrity  so  carefully.  Many  persons  in 
our  C(uintry  have  an  idea  that  a  .Moor  is  a  soi-t  of  negro.  I 
liave  seen  somewliere  in  Europe  (Magdeburg  if  I  remember 
correctly)  an  image  of  St.  Augustine  ]>ainted  as  black  as  tlie 
ace  of  spades,  u])()m  tlie  strenglli  of  liis  African  bisli()})ric,  and 
Othello  is  alwa^'s  presented  with  a  most  suspicious  col<jring, 
which  is  a  stage  absui-dity.  They  ai'O  no  darker  than  tlio 
Italians  or  Spaniards,  and  those  from  the  mountains  are  as  fair 
as  the  Jewesses  from  tlie  mountain  of  Libanus.  But  the  Moor- 
ish ^ast  of  features  is  as  unmistakable  as  the  Jewish,  and 
there  are  abundant  specimens  in  all  the  country  of  Granada. 

The  great  attraction  of  Granada  is,  of  course,  the  Moorisli 
palace  of  the  Alhambra,  the  finest  specimen  of  an  extinct  civili- 
zation that  exists  in  Europe.  After  the  thousand  descriptions 
that  have  been  given  of  this  fairy  ruin,  it  would  scarcely  bo 


SITUATION. — ENTRANCE.  311 

possible  to  add  anything  now.  Yet  few  travellers  conkl  leave 
Spain  without  seeing  and  speaking  of  a  bnilding  which  has 
aroused  the  unmingled  admiration  of  Christians  from  the  date 
of  the  Conquest  to  the  present  time.  As  children  we  have  read 
and  dreamed  of  what  we  were  there  to  see,  and  as  old  men  we 
reflect  and  dream  of  what  we  have  thei-e  seen.  Boabdil  and 
the  Sultana  Zoraya,  the  rivalries  of  the  Zegris  and  Abencerrages 
have  formed  the  delight  alike  of  the  sunny  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  of  the  snow}'  plains  of  IJussia.  Remote  from  the 
whistle  of  the  invading  locomotive,  it  has  as  yet  lost  none  of  its 
interest  in  the  hacknej'ed  description  of  professed  travellers 
and  salaried  letter  Avi-iters;  but  this  is  rapidly  changing,  and 
ere  long  the  genius  of  the  place  will  have  fled  with  alarm  from 
the  tran\p  of  sight-seers  and  the  droning  of  guide  books.  Even 
seven  years  have  made  a  diff'erence,  and  it  is  already  scarcel}'' 
possible,  during  the  greater  portion  of  the  year,  to  wander  about 
its  enchanted  halls  unaccompanied  save  by  the  shades  of  its 
former  proprietors.  I  count  it  among  my  greatest  ])rivilcges  to 
have  travelled  here  before  the  throng  of  visitors  had  rendered 
necessaiy  those  restrictions  which  eifectually  banish  all  illu- 
sions of  the  past. 

From  its  situation,  upon  a  loftj"  spur,  over-looJcing  the  city 
and  the  valley,  the  site  of  the  Alhambra  was  always  occupied 
by  a  fortress,  Avhich  was  called  the  watch  tower  of  the  plain. 
It  was  left  to  A)  Ahmar,  the  founder  of  the  kingdom  of 
Granada,  to  unite  tl)c  security  of  a  fortress  with  the  charms  of 
a  Moorish  palace.  The  whole  hill  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  with 
lofty  flanking  towers,  Avhich  were  formida1)le  enough  at  the 
time  of  their  erection,  and  quite  sufl^cient  to  protect  the  royal 
residence  against  the  escalades  and  men  at  arms  of  the  middle 
ages.  Within  isa  large,  motley  village,  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  a  separate  goverjior,  once  a  functionary  of  importance.  The 
outside  indicates  the  fortress,  and  is  forbidding  to  the  aspect. 
Its  charms,  in  accordaiicc  with  the  Eastern  ideas,  were  reserved 
for  the  eye  of  tiie  master  and  those  whom  he  chose  to  admit  to 
the  intimacy  of  his  private  life.  Passing  through  the  Puerta 
de  las  Granadas,  we  entered  the  grove  which  covered  the  hill 
side.  Delicious!}'  cool  it  was  in  this  Sci)tember  sun.  The 
instantaneous  transition  from  the  glare  of  the  city  to  this  shady 
spot,  amid  fountains  and  gardens  and  the  warbling  of  birds, 
was  magical.     The  reign  of  the  enchanter  had  begun.     On  the 


312  SPAIN    ANn   THE    SPANIARDS. 

loft  ascends  tlie  path  to  the  massive  Gate  of  Justice,  wherein 
the  King  sat  to  exercise  wliat  has  always  been  considered  in 
the  East  the  most  ennoblini^  function  of  royalt}'.  Over  ihe 
horse-shoe  arch  are  a  hand  and  key,  whose  interpretation  has 
puzzled  the  most  learned  of  travellers.  Some  have  supposed 
them  to  be  symbols  of  faith.  The  key  is  frequently  mentioned 
in  the  Koran  in  reference  to  the  Gate  of  Paradise,  in  i)recisely 
the  same  manner  as  in  the  Christian  relifrion  ;  and  the  fi<i;ura- 
tive  manner  of  speaking  of  the  keys  of  St.  Peter  is  doubtless 
derived  from  the  same  Oriental  source.  It  is  moreover  said, 
with  what  authority  I  know  not,  to  have  been  the  armorial 
bearing  of  the  Andalusian  Moors.  The  hand  has  many  myste- 
rious significations.  It  has  the  universal  one  of  power,  fii'm- 
ncssand  protection,  which  has  passed  into  all  languages,  until  it 
has  lost  its  symbolical  meaning  in  the  frequency  of  its  use. 
Fortune-tellers  have  sought  to  read  the  human  destiny  in  its 
lines.  Anatomists  find  it  one  of  the  distinguishing  character- 
istics and  excellencies  of  man;  and  to  sucli  extent  have  mate- 
rialists carried  their  admiration,  that  I  once  heard  a  popular 
lecturer  dilate  upon  its  glories  as  though  it  were  the  immortal 
portion  of  our  being,  which  caused  one  of  the  company  wittily 
to  remark  that  the  poor  success  of  Lord  Raglan,  at  that  time 
the  subject  of  conversation,  was  probably  owing  to  his  having 
lost  one  of  these  valuable  appendages.  Tlie  other  signification 
of  the  hand  is  mystically  connected  with  the  Moluunmcdau 
religion,  whose  teachings  involve  one  point  of  faith — belief  in 
the  one  God  and  his  Prophet — and  four  of  practice,  viz : 
prayer,  alms,  fasting  and  pilgrimage.  Four  of  these  pvecei)ts 
have  three  sub-divisions  each,  and  thus  correspond  to  tlie  three 
joints  of  the  fingers;  the  first  has  only  two,  and  corresponds  to 
the  thumb;  so  that  the  entire  hand  represents  the  whole  duty 
of  religion.  This  is  evidently  one  of  those  pious  ingenuities  of 
which  Europe  also  has  been  fruitful,  but  from  it  came  the  habit 
of  using  the  closed  fist  with  the  thumb,  the  representative  of 
faith,  inserted  between  the  first  and  middle  finger,  as  a  preser- 
vative against  the  "evil  ej'e,"  the  thumb  being  pointed  toward 
the  obnoxious  person.  The  Barbary  merchants  at  Seville  and 
Gibraltar  still  sell  charms  in  this  shape,  to  be  hung  around  the 
necks  of  children.  Under  the  Spanish  rule  the  gesture  thus 
described  came  to  be  significant  rather  of  contempt.  As  to  the 
meaning  of  the  hand  over  the  Gate  of  Justice  here^  the  traveller 


PLAZA    DE    LOS    ALGIBES.  313 

can  select  what  signification  he  please,  with  as  much  probability 
of  being  right  as  if  aided  by  the  most  leai-ned  (lis(piisition.  ]Iad 
it  been  over  the  gate  of  the  Palace  itself,  and  the  inscription  in 
the  tower  of  Coniares  alongside,  there  might  have  been  reason 
for  thinking  it  a  protection  against  the  "evil  eye,"  but  there 
was  no  manner  of  necessity  for  thus  protecting  the  whole 
village,  and  that  the  founder  should  have  selected  the  armorial 
bearing  of  his  enemies,  the  Almohades,  whose  empire  he  bad 
aided  to  extinguish  by  the  capture  of  Seville,  is  improbable. 
Taken  in  connection  w'ith  the  key,  and  in  its  position  over  the 
entrance  of  the  fortress,  it  was  more  likely  a  symbol  of  the 
power  and  protection  of  God  against  all  enemies,  as  the  other 
was  a  s^^mbol  of  faith,  i^ut  Allah  is  great !  he  onl}'  is  all 
knowing ! 

Passing  through  the  Gate  of  Justice,  we  enter  the  ])recincts 
of  the  fortress — whose  first  appearance  is  apt  to  cause  disap- 
pointment— an  irregular,  open  square,  called  the  Plaza  de  los 
Algibes,  or  the  Place  of  the  Cisterns,  Avhich  lie  underneath.  On 
all  sides  are  uninviting  buildings,  among  lliem  the  unfinished 
Palace  of  Charles  V,  which  Avould  be  a  fine  structure  if 
it  wei'c  comj^leted.  Externally  it  is  square,  of  mingled  Ionic 
and  Doric.  The  interior  is  circular,  with  a  double  colonnade. 
Tlie  architectural  plan  is  certainly  good,  and  had  the  original 
idea  been  carried  out  it  would  have  been  a  great  addition  to 
the  otherwise  unattractive  appearance  of  the  exterior  of  the 
Alhambra.  To  make  way  for  it  the  winter  residence  of  the 
Moorish  kings  was  destroyed,  a  matter  of  ceaseless  regret  to 
the  whole  world,  though,  in  the  absence  of  contemporaneous 
description,  it  may  reasonably  admit  of  a  doubt  whether  the 
winter  home  were  constructed  upon  the  same  scale  of  elegance 
as  the  jiortion  that  remains.  The  cold  season  with  the  Moors 
was  not  a  period  of  enjo3-ment,  and  the  great  Emperor  was  too 
deeply  imbued  with  the  true  artistic  feeling  to  destroy  what 
was  worth  preserving.  It  is  much  more  prol»al>le  that  be 
intended  to  substitute  in  its  place  a  palace  in  the  northern  stjde 
of  arcliitecture,  wbicli  recognizes  the  beaut}'  of  winter,  and  is 
better  suited  to  the  temperature  of  that  season  in  (Jranada,  as 
coml)ining  warmth  with  elegance,  while  the  Alhambra  should 
be  preserved  for  the  summer's  delight.  Tlio  original  entrance 
in  the  time  of  the  Moors  Avas  on  the  soulli,  now  blocked  up  by 
the   Spanish   Palace.      A   small   door,   of  most   unpretending 


314 


SPAIN    ANI»    THE    SPANIARDS. 


appcarant'O,  was  subsequently  m:i<le  to  the  west  to  supply  its 
place,  and  liy  that  we  were,  without  ]>reliniinary  admonition, 
ushered  into  the  midst  of  its  faiiy  scenes.  And  now  the  disap- 
pointment of  the  outside  a.spect  gives  way  to  an  astonishment 
which  few  ]>ens  can  describe.  Within  that  coarse  exterioi' 
glitters  the  sparkling  diamond.  Courts  and  air}'  columns,  and 
orange  ceilings,  gardens,  fountains,  everything  that  could  aid 
in  lianishing  remembrance  of  the  outer  world,  are  here  in 
profusion. 

The  tirst  or  entrance  court,  is  the  Patio  de  la  Alberca,  the 
Court  of  the  Pond,  which  occupies  the  centre,  its  limpid  waters 
sparkling  with  gold  fish  and  reflecting  the  flowers  around  its 
edge.  An  ornamental  vail  encircles  the  whole.  The  former 
entrance  from  the  winter  palace  was  to  the  right  of  this  court, 
and  the  rooms  for  the  attendants  opened  upon  it.  On  the 
northern  side  ri.ses  the  tower  of  Comarcs,  and  within  it  is  the 
wonder  of  the  Alhambra,  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors.  What- 
ever expectations  may  have  been  formed  of  the  beauties  of  tho 
Moorish  ornamentation  are  here  exceeded  by  the  reality,  liut 
I  am  warned  from  an  attempt  at  description  by  the  failure  of 
all  I  have  ever  read  to  convey  an  idea  of  its  effect.  Nor  is  it 
wonderful  that  the  artist  should  have  thought  it  neccssar}-  to 
deprecate  in  an  inscrijdion  the  influence  of  the  "evil  eye." 
The  size  of  t!u'  hall  is  not  great,  scarcely  more  than  forty  feet 
square,  but  the  centre  of  its  dome  attains  a  height  of  seventy  or 
more,  whose  sombre  gloom  adds  indescribably  to  the  general 
eff'oct.  The  ante-chamber  contains  some  of  the  best  preserved 
portion  of  the  old  coloring,  whose  contrast  with  that  of  the 
restoration  is  humiliating  to  modern  art.  The  views  from  the 
embrasured  windows  of  the  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  are  superb, 
and  it  is  looking  from  them  that  Charles  V  is  said  to  have 
exclaimed,  "111  fated  tho  mtin  who  lost  all  this!" 

Returning  by  tho  Patio  de  la  Alberca,  and  passing  through 
an  ante-room,  you  enter  the  famous  Court  of  Lions,  Avhose  long 
vistas  and  pure  marble  columns  recall  faintly  the  Mosque  of] 
Cordova.     The  fountain  in  the  centre  rests  upon  the  backs  of] 
twelve  heavy  animals,  which  have  euphemisticall}'  been  called] 
lions;  while  the  delicate  columns  of  the  pavilions  and  corridorsj 
seem  as  thongli  tho}^  would  1)e  crushed  beneath  the  suporin-^ 
cumbent  weight  above,     l^pon  this  court  open  two  of  the  most 
celebi'ated  halls  in  the  Alhambra — that  of  the   Abcncerrao-es 


TOCADOR    DE    LA   REIXA.  315 

and  that  of  the  Two  Sisters.  In  the  former  are  still  sliown  the 
lilood  stains  of  the  luckless  cavaliers  who  paid  the  penalty  of 
love  with  the  extinction  of  their  poAver  and  almost  of  their 
race.  Sad,  that  not  onl}'  these  marks,  but  even  the  narrative 
itself  were  too  probably  an  invention  of  the  romantic  Perez  de 
Ilyta.  The  name  of  the  hall  of  the  Two  Sisters  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  two  slabs  of  marble  Avhich  have  been  let  into  the 
floor — a  most  prosaic  derivation,  but  one  that  seems  to  he  true. 
On  the  east  are  three  other  halls,  containing  paintings  of  men 
and  animals.  In  one  are  represented  ten  most  venerable 
bearded  Moors;  in  others  hunting  scenes  and  even  ladies  are 
portrayed.  That  the  second  commandment  should  be  thus 
violated  in  the  Court  of  Lions  both  by  paintings  and  sculp- 
tures, is  an  astonishing  and  unique  exception  to  the  practice  of 
Mohammedans,  Avho  have  been  fanatical  iconoclasts,  and  Avhoso 
reformation  of  the  Christianity  jiracticed  in  the  seventh  century 
consisted  principally  in  the  substitution  of  an  ethereal,  incon- 
ceivable Deity  for  the  gross  materialism  into  which  the  world 
"was  fast  relapsing.  Such  was  the  horror  -with  Avhich  the 
Avooden  and  stone  representations  of  the  Great  Jehovah  filled 
Mohammed,  that  he  re-enacted  the  provisions  of  the  Jewish 
hiAv  in  all  their  stringency,  and  few  of  his  precepts  have  been 
so  faithfully  obeyed.  These  in  the  Alhambra  Avere  probably 
the  work  of  Christians,  but  the  sin  consisted  as  much  in  using 
as  in  making  them. 

I  have  passed  over  the  Patio  de  Lindaraja,  the  PoA'al  Baths, 
the  Mosque,  the  Discreet  Statues,  charming  as  they  all  are, 
Avithout  remark;  but  I  could  not  ycnturo  to  leaA^e  thus  unno- 
ticed the  Tocador  de  la  Eeina.  A  little  corridor  leads  to  the 
pavilion  so  called.  It  is  open  on  all  sides,  its  frescoed  roof 
being  supported  by  slender  marble  columns.  The  object  for 
which  it  Avas  constructed  is  not  Avith  certainty  knoAvn.  For  a 
long  time  it  Avas  supposed  to  be  the  Queen's  toilet  room, 
Avhence  it  deriA'ed  its  name,  and  the  perforated  marble  slab  in 
the  corner  to  be  the  place  Avhere  the  Sultan  stood  to  receive 
the  odor  of  the  perfumes,  a  practice  Avhich  I  haA'c  knoAvn 
myself  to  he  indulged  in.  But  a  dressing  room  in  the  open  air 
would  scarcely  accord  Avith  Moorish  customs.  Others  have 
supposed  it  to  be  a  mere  mirador,  a  looking-out  place.  But 
the  inscription  around  the  Frieze  is  thought  to  indicate  a  much 
nobler  destination.     As  my  Arabic  Avas  not  equal  to  the  task  of 


316  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

(leci])ho!ring  the  flourishes  of  the  Alhainhra.  I  must  bon-ow 
the  following  transhition  :  ''  In  the  najuc  of  God  the  merciful  ! 
May  (fod  be  with  our  Lord  and  Prophet  Mohammed  I  To  him 
and  his  be  endless  happiness  and  salvation!  God  is  the  light 
of  iH'aveii  and  earth,  and  His  light  is  like  unto  Himself.  He  is 
like  unto  a  lamp  whose  rays  are  man}',  while  it  is  one.  ]Ie  is 
the  light  of  light,  like  a  blazing  constellation,  which  kindles 
and  illuminates,  but  is  not  itself  consumed."  Judging  by  this 
inscription  and  its  situation,  the  pavilion  was  probably  the 
Sultan's  oratory,  and  what  nobler  spot  could  have  been  se- 
lected for  the  worship  of  the  Almighty  God  ?  The  ]>rospect  is 
enchanting.  Perpendicularly  below  bounds  the  ]-)arro,  amid 
pomegranates  and  figs,  separating  the  hill  of  the  Alhambra 
from  the  opposite  one  of  the  Albaycin.  Beyond  this  the  view 
embraces  the  city,  the  green  luxuriance  of  the  Vega,  and  far 
be^'ond  all,  the  Sierras  P^lvira  and  Nevada,  towering  with 
barren  sides  and  snow  capped  peaks  into  the  very  heavens. 
On  the  left  rise  the  blank  walls  of  the  Alhambra.  The  wor- 
8hij)pcr  Avould  seem  thus  to  be  separated  from  humanity  and 
its  works,  in  order  that  his  whole  soul  might  be  poured  out  in 
abstracted  devotion  to  its  Creator.  The  example  of  the  patri- 
archs M'ho  went  up  into  a  high  mountain  to  pray,  has  been 
abandoned  in  modern  times  for  the  charms  of  a  fashionable 
assemblage,  the  rustling  of  silks  and  odor  of  perfumes,  with 
the  drowsy  ])Iatitudes  or,  still  worse,  the  thundering  invectives 
of  a  favorite  preacher.  For  the  inculcation  of  moral  senti- 
ments and  the  enforcement  of  moral  duties  this  maybe  the 
best  ]ilan.  But  for  religion,  for  the  ajipi-eciation  of  the  l»ond 
which  unites  the  creature  and  the  Creator,  there  must  be  the 
solitude  of  the  desert  or  tlie  solemn  grandeur  of  the  Cathedral 
at  Seville.  Yet  neither  the  glories  of  the  prospect  nor  the 
beauty  of  the  Tocador  itself  have  preserved  it  from  the  dese- 
cration of  scribblers,  and  the  Joneses  of  England,  the  Schultzcs 
of  Germany,  and  the  Petits  of  Prance,  vie  with  each  other  in 
the  i"ace  of  immortality  upon  its  walls. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  describe  the  Alhambra.  That  were 
presumption.  Even  the  genial  writings  of  our  own  celebrated 
countryman,  whose  name  is  a  household  word  in  tiic  Palace  of 
Al  Ahmar,  seen  tanie  and  artiticial  beside  the  moonlit  gloi"ies 
of  the  reality.  Of  most  of  the  great  triumphs  of  architecture 
it  is  easy  to  convey  a  reasonably  distinct  idea  by  the  united 


RESTORATION.  817 

labors  of  pen  and  pencil.  15ut  the  o-onins  of  Moorish  art,  like 
the  perfume  of  a  rose,  cannot  be  imprisoned  in  fettei's.  Its 
thousand  columns,  its  endless  figures,  its  inscri])tions  torturing 
the  in<;-enuity,  all  combine  to  produce  the  indistinctness  Avhich 
is  its  characteristic.  As  a  summer  ])alacc  it  seems  to  be  per- 
fect. Its  spacious  marble  courts,  its  delicate  colutnns,  its 
bublding  fountains  and  curtained  doors  suggest,  irresistibly, 
the  idea  of  a  refreshing  coolness  and  blissful  repose.  The 
Alhambra,  however,  to  be  appreciated  must  be  seen  b^'  moon- 
light. Then,  seated  alone  in  the  hall  of  the  Abcncerrages, 
and  looking  forth  upon  the  Fountain  of  the  Lions,  does  it 
become  re-peopled  with  the  sjiirits  of  by-gone  days.  Boabdil 
and  his  queens,  Zegris,  Abencerrages,  Gomeles,  Gazules,  Aben- 
amars,  crowd  its  audience  halls,  or  saunter  along  its  silvery 
corridors,  while  the  warning  spirit  points  ominously  to  the  few 
sands  yet  remaining  ere  the  Christian  bugles  shall  sound  at  its 
gates.  The  Alhambra  is  seldom  mentioned  by  Arabic  histo- 
rians in  an}'  unusual  strains  of  commendation.  Dm  Pjatutah 
does  not  even  allude  to  it.  We  can  thus  form  some  conception 
of  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  palaces  of  Azzahra  and 
Azzahira  upon  the  banks  of  the  Guadalquivir,  which  fire  the 
imagination  of  their  writers.  Indeed  the  city  of  Granada  was 
built  in  the  decadence  of  the  Moorish  Empire,  when  its  terri- 
tory was  restricted  to  the  upper  valley  of  the  Genii  and  the 
sea  coast  of  Malaga  and  Almeria,  and  its  treasury  exhausted 
by  war  and  tribute,  so  that  it  boasts  few  edifices  of  note 
except  the  Alhambra  itself.  The  founder  of  the  kingdom, 
Al  Ahmar,  was  the  same  I  have  mentioned  as  aiding  St.  Fer- 
dinand in  the  conquest  of  Seville,  and  this  was  the  last  of  the 
great  Mohammedan  cities  of  Spain.  And  yet  the  ruins  of  the 
Alhambra,  the  least  celebrated  of  the  Moorish  palaces,  is  the 
gem  and  wonder  of  our  age. 

The  Duke  of  Montpensier  and  other  enlightened  spirits  have 
caused  the  work  of  renovation  to  l)e  prosecuted  in  earnest.  It 
consists  as  much  in  undoing  as  in  doing.  The  horrible,  vile 
tiled  roof  is  to  come  down  ;  the  whitewash  is  to  be  removed, 
and  wiierc  the  ancient  work  is  irretrievably  destroj-ed.  an  imi- 
tation, the  best  that  can  be,  is  to  be  substituted.  As  the  place 
is  filled  with  workmen,  the  opportunity  is  eagerly  seized  by 
amateurs  of  obtaining  a  piece  of  the  genuine  Azulejos.  They 
are  open  to  approachetj,  and  di.spose  of  small  bits  at  exorbitant 


318  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

rates;  l»ut  it  is  diaiiiond  cut  (iijiinoiid,  for  in  iiiiu'ly-niiie  eases 
out  of  a  hundred,  the  de:ir-l><>uglit  specimens  are  the  new  manu- 
facture, which  cannot  readilj-  be  distinguished  hy  an  unprac- 
ticed  eye.  The  ditierence  in  weight  is  an  infallible  criterion, 
the  original  being  nearly  twice  as  heav}'.  This  mania  for  col- 
lecting pieces  of  celebrated  things,  at  any  expense,  whether  of 
purse  or  of  honor,  seems  confined  to  the  British  dominion,  with, 
of  course,  a  few  imitators  among  us,  as  a  portion  of  our  popula- 
tion seems  to  have  a  happy  facility  in  copying  foreign,  particu- 
larly Jiritish  vices.  Morality  on  the  subject  is  suspended.  It 
is  hardly  j)Ossible  to  conceive  what  pleasure  the  possession  of 
such  an  article  could  give.  The  French  excused  their  hauling 
the  Cid's  bones  about,  by  having  thus  saved  them  from  the 
English  virtuosos.  1  once  saw,  with  my  own  eyes,  an  Ameri- 
can— a  member  of  a  church  at  that — knock  ott'a  statuette  from 
a  tomb  on  the  Apj^ian  Way,  and  think  he  had  made  a  tine 
"  oj)eration."  The  nose  of  the  A'enus  de  Medici,  or  the  shank 
of  Apollo,  would  i)i'obably  suffer  the  same  fate,  if  a  fair  oppor- 
tunity oliered.  On  one  occasion,  at  the  Alhambra,  1  had 
noticed  a  broken  piece  in  tlie  pavement,  near  the  Hall  of  the 
Baths,  but  had  ])asseil  on  without  ihiiilviiig  more  of  the  mailer. 
Presejilly  an  Knglishman  of  the  parly  i-emarketl  to  n)e  thai  he 
had  secured  a  fine  specimen.  I  saitl  nothing.  His  triumph 
was  of  short  duration,  for  the  custodian  was  soon  seen  in  confi- 
dential intercourse  with  the  guide,  and  Albion's  son  was  sum- 
inonetl  to  restore  the  missing  article,  which  he  did  with  inlinile 
confusion.  Yet  I  know  that  he  was  a  person  of  honorable  sen- 
timents and  would  have  scorned  to  do  what  he  consiilered  a 
mean  action.  The  most  provoking  thing  about  the  affair  was, 
that  the  same  piece  Iwul  atti-acted  the  covetousness  of  three 
others,  at  different  times,  and  had  been  left  loose  as  a  kind  of 
bait. 

The  extremity  of  the  hill  or  s])ur  of  the  Alhambra  is  occupied 
b}'  the  Torre  de  la  A'ela  (the  watch  tower),  whose  bell  is  lolled 
upon  the  anniversary  oi'  the  surrender.  It  has  little  rest  that 
day,  for  when  rung  by  the  hand  of  maidens,  it  has  the  same 
effect  as  the  pistol  of  our  ancestors  in  arousing  gallants  to  the 
duty  of  deehiriiig  their  intentions,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
husband  is  jjroporlionate  to  the  vigor  of  the  peal.  There  is 
said,  however,  to  be  a  certain  age  beyond  which  even  this 
expedient  fails.     On  oi'dinary  occasions  at  serves  the  more  pro- 


THE    VEGA.  319 

saic  purpose  of  indicating  to  tlio  farmers  of  the  Vega  the  period 
of  irrigation.  Fornierh-  it  av;is  permitted  to  breakfast  under 
an  arbor  in  the  garden,  Avliieh  pleasure  I  enjoyed,  Init  they  say 
that  is  now  proliibited.  Tlie  view  is  enclianting.  At  our  feet 
reposed  the  sliining  city  of  Granada,  girted  about  by  gardens 
and  noble  walks.  The  whole  extent  of  the  Vega  lay  as  a  lake 
of  tlowers  and  verdure,  its  velvety  green  intersjtersed  with 
sparkling  villages,  all  embalmed,  as  the  scene  of  some  knightly 
encounter  between  the  Christian  and  the  Moor.  A  network  of 
canals  glittered  amid  the  luxuriant  products  of  three  conti- 
nents. Enclosing  the  plain,  rose  on  all  sides  the  wall  of  bai'e 
mountain,  while,  overlooking  the  whole,  towered,  in  snowy 
sublimity,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  like  some  beneficent  genius  sur- 
veying in  conscious  omnipotence  the  glories  of  his  handiwork. 
From  its  recesses  trickled  the  gentle  Genii,  receiving  at  every 
step  the  offering  of  its  trilmtaries,  and  placidly  gliding  amid 
flowciy  fields  until  the  narrow  gorge  of  Loja  stole  it  from  our 
vision.  "  Why  shoidd  Cairo  boast  her  Nile,  Avhen  Granada  has 
a  thousand  Niles  in  her  8henil  ?" 

The  word  Vega  is  supposed  to  be  of  Basque  origin,  and  is 
ai^plied  to  any  fertile  plain  between  elevations;  Itut  that  of 
Granada,  extending  from  the  base  of  the  Sierra  to  the  city  of 
Loja,  a  distance  of  nine  Spanish  leagues,  is  called  the  Vega  by 
distinction.  Take  it  all  in  all,  there  are  few  spots  in  the  world 
worthy  of  a  comparison.  A  broad  valley  enclosed  between 
lofty  Sierras,  whose  nakedness  render.s  its  luxuriance  the  more 
beautiful,  is  fertilized  bj'  ample  streams  floAving  from  the  eter- 
nal snows  of  the  highest  mountain  in  Spain.  Thus  are  united 
and  brought  within  a  small  compass  the  whole  range  of  the 
vegetable  kingdom.  The  fervid  sun  of  these  latitudes  lends  his 
aid  to  the  Avork  of  production,  and  the  agricultural  skill  of  the 
Moor  has  been  perpetuated  to  our  da}'.  It  Avould  be  easier  to 
f>i\y  what  is  not  than  Avhat  is  cultivated  here.  The  climate, 
too.  is  beyond  complaint,  though  the  neighl)oring  mountains 
cause  at  times  fierce  Avinds  to  bloAV.  One  such  in  the  month  of 
March  compelled  us  to  remain  in  doors  a  Avhole  day,  with  closed 
shutters,  for  the  panes  Avere  all  liroken  by  its  violence,  and 
the  falling  tiles  rendered  it  dangerous  tOAvalk  the  streets.  The 
neighl)oring  mountain  of  Parapanda  su])plies  the  place  of  a 
barometer,  according  to  the  distich — 

Quanilo  Parapanda  ?c  pono  la  Montcra 
LlucTC  aunquc  Dios  no  lo  quisicra. 


820  SPAIN    AND    TIfi:    SPANIARDJ;. 

Fulfillinj^  the  ]Kirt  of  Mount  Pilatus  in  Switzerland,  of  which 
there  is  a  similar  saying,  its  e<jual   in  elegance  of  diction — 

Wenn  Pilatus  lr;igl  den  Hut 
Danu  isl  da.s  Wcttur  gut. 

To  all  tlie  atlractionH  of  nature  it  must  be  added  that  every 
foot  of  ground  is  liallowed  by  some  romantic  recollection. 
Here  is  the  village  of  Santa  Fe,  built  by  the  Catholic  sovereigns 
during  the  siege,  to  prove  their  tixed  determination  never  to 
abandon  this  cherished  object.  It  was  at  this  village  that  the 
deed  of  surrender  was  signed,  and  hence,  too,  did  Columl)us, 
with  joyful  countenance,  set  tbrth  to  the  discover}'  of  our  own 
continent.  Farther  on  is  the  magnificent  estate  of  Soto  de 
Koma,  which,  presented  in  succession  to  various  warriors  in 
token  of  national  gratitude,  now  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington. Here  is  the  Sierra  Elvira,  famous  in  Spanish  history 
for  the  defeat  and  death  of  the  Infantas.  Lost  in  that  ijorjjo 
lies  Loja,  and  hidden  behind  yon  Sierras  is  Albania.  Indeed 
what  s])Ot  is  there  which  has  not  lieen  watered  by  the  best 
blood  of  Moslem  and  Christian  ? 

Tearing  ourselves  reluctantly  away,  we  descended  into  the 
valley  of  the  Darro,  and,  passing  along  the  base  of  the  Alliam- 
bra,  mounted  the  bill  to  the  (ieneralife,  a  fairy  spot  of  toun- 
tains  and  lloweiMiig  avenues.  The  venerable  cypre8.ses  wliieh 
bore  sueli  false  witness  against  the  Abencerrages  are  still 
])ointed  out.  The  (ieneralife  l)elongs  to  a  nolde  descendant  of 
the  Moorish  race.  On  a  still  loftier  eminence  to  the  i-ear  is  the 
Silla  del  Moro  (the  seat  of  the  Moor),  a  ruin  said  to  be  of  a 
former  palace.  The  view  from  this  point  is  more  extensive 
than  from  the  Torre  de  la  Vela.  It  embraces  the  Generalife 
and  the  Alhambra  itself,  which  lie  as  it  were  upon  successive 
steps  of  the  sanie  hill.  On  the  right  is  the  precipitous  ravine 
of  the  Darro,  separating  it  from  the  Albaycin,  in  which  the 
Moriscoes  after  the  conquest  were  required  to  dwell.  Their 
poverty  and  fallen  fortunes  are  fitly  represented  by  its  present 
inhabitants.  To  the  left  are  the  groves  of  the  Alhambra,  and 
beyond  the  wooded  ravine  rise  the  Torres  Bermejas.  The 
teeming  Vega  blooms  as  ever,  while  around,  far  as  the  sight 
can  reach,  struggling  Sierras  lift  their  l)ai-e  ])reeijMees  toward 
heaven. 

Returning  by  the  grove  of  the  Alhambra,  we  stopped  at  thp 


CATIIEPRAL. — CHAPEL    OF   THE    KINOS.  321 

towci'  of  the  vSevcn  Stories  (los  sieto  suclos).  A  little  restau- 
rant with  a  garden  had  been  fitted  up  to  refresh  the  thirsty. 
One  of  our  English  acquaintances  in  Malaga  had  recommended 
in  the  strongest  terms  a  visit  to  the  Torre  de  los  Siete  Siielos, 
not  to  see  the  old  gate,  nor  to  think  al)Out  El  Zagal  or  ]5oabdil 
— quite  a  diflPerent  purpose — to  drink  a  marvellous  nectar  called 
Sangria.  AVhat  it  was  he  could  not  exactly  decide,  hut  pro- 
nounced it  worth}'  of  the  gods  on  a  hot  day.  The  Sangria 
turned  out  to  be  neither  more  nor  less  than  sangaree,  so  that 
though  I  failed  to  obtain  a  new  sensation,  I  learnt  the  origin 
of  the  drink  and  its  English  ap])ellation.  For  the  benefit  of 
tyros  in  Castillian  it  may  be  well  enough  to  say  that  sangre 
means  blood,  and  the  name  is  hence  appropriate. 

Among  the  modern  buildings  of  Granada,  the  most  conspi- 
cuous is  the  Cathedral,  founded  upon  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
Mosque,  and  preserving  very  nearly  its  shape.  The  interior  is 
too  full  of  light  for  my  taste,  but  it  is  nevertheless  a  fine  edifice, 
and  some  ]iortions  of  it  are  magnificent.  The  high  altar  and 
the  beautiful  dome  are  especially  worthy  of  admiration.  One 
is  surprised  to  see  how  much  wealth  it  has  retained,  notwith- 
standing the  strenuous  efforts  of  invading  armies  to  relieve  it 
of  that  root  of  evil.  As  Crranada  was  the  birth  place  of  Alouzo 
Cano,  it  is  fitting  that  the  Cathedral  should  he  ornamented  by 
the  works  of  so  distinguished  a  son,  and  such  is  the  case.  The 
specimens  of  his  art  are  numerous  and  of  the  first  degree  of 
merit.  There  is  a  series  of  seven  pictures  b}-  him,  ]-epresenting 
scenes  in  the  Life  of  the  Virgin.  As  is  usual  with  a  continued 
effV)rt  of  this  kind,  some  are  good  and  others  much  below  what 
might  l)e  expected.  But  unalloj-ed  praise  must  be  bestowed 
upon  his  various  carvings  of  the  Virgin.  The  heavenly  expres- 
sion which  he  has  infused  into  the  speechless  wood  surpasses 
belief  Every  one  of  these  is  a  treasure.  But  his  Virgins, 
however  beautiful,  do  not  approach  in  sanctity  the  ugly  imnge 
in  the  Chapel  de  la  Antigua,  which  was  brought  b}-  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella  to  aid  the  siege.  Like  its  sister  of  (Juadaloupe,  it 
has  received  the  honor  of  bestowing  a  name  on  one  of  our 
islands. 

By  far  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
Chapel  of  the  Kings,  which,  though  attached  to  the  building, 
is  on  a  separate  ecclesiastical  establishment,  and  devoted  to  the 
sepulture  of  the  Catholic  kings  and  their  daughter  and  son-in- 


322  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPAM  AH  PS. 

law.  The  sliados  of  evening  won'  ;^^;UliorinL;  as  wo  ontcrod  the 
sacred  spot  wlierc  repose  the  nutrtal  remains  of  the  great,  tljo 
wise,  the  good  Isabelhi,  the  queen  of  queens,  whose  firmness 
and  intelhgonce  equalled  her  gentleness.  Among  the  female 
sovereigns  who  have  dazzled  the  world  b}''  their  charms  or 
scandalized  it  by  their  crimes,  Isabella  of  Spain  stands  alone 
uncontaminated  by  the  vices  of  her  position,  or  the  frailties  of 
her  sex — surpassing  Elizabeth  and  Catharine  in  wisdom,  and 
Seniiramis  in  fortune,  uniting  thei-ewith  the  peculiar  charms  of 
her  sex — virtue,  submission,  piety;  alike  beloved  and  esteemed 
as  a  woman  and  a  sovereign.  The  only  blot  upon  her  reign  is 
the  establishment  of  the  Inquisition.  A  great  deal  may  be  said 
in  her  excuse  or  justitiealion  in  this  behalf.  The  wlKtlo  of  the 
newly  conquered  count r}'  was  tilled  with  pretended  converts  to 
the  faith,  who  remained  at  heart  its  bitter  foes.  And  as  this 
(litl'erence  of  faith  involved  in  those  days  a  difference  of  nation- 
ality, it  became  a  ])oliti(al  duly  to  see  that  the  safety  of  the 
State  were  not  endangered  by  its  enemies  concealed  within  its 
own  l)osom.  Such  was  the  Inquisition  as  first  established — an 
instrument  against  hypocrisy;  and  her  meek  and  gentle  s]iii-it 
would  Avrithe  in  its  prison  house  could  it  but  behold  this  child 
of  hell,  as  it  soon  afterwards  became,  blasting  and  Avithering 
the  grass  as  it  strode  the  earth,  and  scattering  broadcast 
anguish  and  miser}-  unutterable.  Strange  fate!  that  the  most 
horrible  of  all  human  institutions  should  owe  its  establishment 
to  the  best  of  sovereigns. 

The  faint  twilight  fell  upon  the  niarble  eftigies  of  the  great 
queen  and  her  husband.  ><'otliing  can  bo  more  exquisite  than 
the  expression  of  her  face.  It  is  that  of  the  CMii-istian  who  has 
fought  the  good  tight,  and  this  litt'ul  dream  o'er,  in  the  eaim 
repose  of  faith  awaits  the  trumpet  summons  of  resurrection. 
Seldom  has  a  work  of  art  been  in  happier  harmony  Mith  its 
suri'otindings.  On  the  adjoining  tomb  arc  similar  cfligies  of 
their  daugliter,  .1  nana  la  Loca,  ami  tlieii-  son-in-law,  Philip  of 
Burgundy'.  The  whole  in  costumes  remarkaiile  ibr  their  sim- 
plicity. There  was  some  difficulty  about  jirocuring  the  key  to 
the  vault  below  out  of  the  usual  hours,  and  as  I  had  visited  it 
upon  a  previous  occasion,  it  did  not  seem  worth  while  to  insist. 
The  coffins  are  plain,  entirel}-  without  ornament.  The  ceno- 
taphs above  had  spoken  of  the  glories  of  the  past,  the  hopes  of 
the  future ;   the  shapeless,  leaden  boxes  below  told  us  of  the 


THE    CARTIJA.  323 

present,  of  the  corruption  of  mortality  and  of  tlie  vanitj-  of 
human  greatness. 

The  rest  of  the  Chapel  is  occupied  hy  tlie  liigh  altar,  which 
is  ornamented  with  curious  and  very  interesting  carvings,  rep- 
resenting the  sui'render  and  conversion  of  the  captives.  The 
banners  used  at  the  siege,  with  the  sword  of  Ferdinand,  arc 
worthily  deposited  here.  It  is  really  pleasant  to  see  the  unity 
of  the  idea  so  exquisitel}'"  preserved.  Nothing  is  calculated  to 
divert  the  mind  from  the  conquest,  iinless  it  be  the  tomb  of 
,luana  la  Loca  and  her  husband,  Avhich,  perhaps,  has  been  per- 
mitted to  remain  as  a  commcnttny  upon  worldl}-  pride — that 
the  ])roudest  sceptre  of  two  continents  should  descend  to  hands 
bereft  of  reason  to  grasp  or  appreciate  it. 

Of  the  various  convents  there  are  few  at  present  worthy  of 
a  visit.  The  Cartuja,  a  little  outside  of  the  city  bej^ond  the 
gate  of  Elvira,  is  an  exception.  Though  the  Carthusians  were 
averse  to  the  charms  of  conversation,  they  generally  mani- 
fested an  appreciation  of  the  pleasures  of  sight.  The  view 
over  the  Vega,  from  the  convent  terrace,  is  lovel}-,  indeed,  as 
every  prospect  over  that  magic  vale  must  be.  The  cloisters 
within  present  a  less  agreeable  aspect,  being  ornamented  Avith 
frescoes  of  the  cruelties  inflicted  upon  the  members  of  their 
order  in  England,  under  Ilenr}-  VIII,  as  a  set  otf  to  similar 
acts  cliarged  against  their  own  faith.  Both  are,  doubtless, 
correct  in  the  substance  of  their  accusations;  power  and 
fanaticism  cannot  be  united  without  the  effusion  of  blood,  and 
history  shows  that  Elizabeth  and  her  father,  considering  the 
small  sincerity  of  belief  in  either,  were  as  little  disposed  to  be 
tolerant  as  Queen  Mary.  But  what  did  arouse  my  admiration 
Avere  the  marble  and  the  tortoise  shell,  the  ivory  and  el)ony 
work  of  the  chapel  and  sanctuary-.  Such  things  rarely  strike 
me,  but  these  are  quite  out  of  the  ordinary  range,  and  are  not 
onl}^  curious,  but  exquisitely  beautiful.  The  lines  of  color  in 
the  marl)le  have  been  interpreted  into  various  fantastic  figures, 
and  some  strangely  correct  representations  of  our  Saviour, 
crowned  with  thorns,  are  considered  to  border  upon  the  mirac- 
ulous. In  surveying  tlieir  unequalled  richness  of  decoration,  I 
could  not  but  think  if  such  be  a  Spanish  convent,  after  its  des- 
ecration, what  must  tliej'  have  been  at  the  beginning  of  the 
century.  B}^  thus  ornamenting  their  abode,  the  Cartliusians 
must  have  rendered  doubly  hard  the  duty  of  self-uiortification- 


324  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

for  what  couUl  hv  more  tuntalizini^  llian  to  he  thus  surrounded 
with  so  many  of  the  charms  of  life,  and  yet  unahlo  to  speak 
beyond  the  two  gloomy  ))hrases:  "We  must  die;"  "die  wo 
must."'     (Ilcmos  de  morir;  ya  lo  se.) 

The  marble  here  used  came,  for  the  most  part,  from  Lanjaron. 
All  the  neighboring  mountain  ranges  are  full,  and  the  whole  of 
Andalusia  abounds  in  vast  deposits  of  every  class,  some  quite 
equal  to  the  best  in  the  worbl.  It  is  questionable  whether  any 
other  portion  uf  Europe  be  so  well  provided.  They  are  lound, 
too,  in  a  greater  variety  of  color.  The  abundance  of  so  orna- 
mental and  useful  a  material,  and  the  excellence  of  the  climate, 
which  prevents  it  froin  tarnisiiing,  are  two  reasons  of  the  ex- • 
traordinar}'  neatness  of  the  houses  in  all  tliis  province.  The 
Patios  of  the  commonest  dwellings  in  Seville  are  paved  with 
it,  whither  it  is  brought  from  the  Sierra  .Morena,  the  moun- 
tains near  Ecija,  and  those  of  Uonda.  On  the  sea  coast  the 
Italian  marble  was  formerly  emi)loyeil  as  a  part  return  trade 
for  the  cxjjorts  from  the  Indies. 

The  once  magnificent  convent  of  Saint  Jerome  is  utterly 
ruined,  and  even  the  tomb  of  the  great  Captain  Gonsalvo  de 
Cordova  desecrated.  It  is  an  old  tale,  soon  told  :  the  French 
carried  off  everything  that  could  be  removed,  and  converted  it 
into  a  stable.  The  so-called  lilteral  mob  completed  what  the 
French  had  left  undone,  murdered  the  monks  and  rifled  the  se- 
]>ulchre  (;f  the  (Jreat  Captain,  whoso  l)ones  are  probably  scattered 
in  private  cabinets,  from  Land's  End  to  John  o'Groat's.  But 
one  of  the  noblest  monuments  of  a  ])a8t  ago  survives  in  the 
Hospital  of  San  Juan  do  Dios,  founded  by  the  Saint  himself, 
who  <lied  in  the  reign  of  Charles  V.  I  ha]»pened  to  be  there 
on  the  day  of  the  patron  Saint,  in  1S;')l;,  when  the  llosjjital, 
with  the  exception  of  the  dangerous  and  infectious  wards,  was 
opened  for  inspection  to  all  who  chose  to  enter.  We  followed 
along  with  the  crowd.  The  ajJiiearanco  of  everything  was 
admirable;  neatness  and  order  reigned  around  ;  nor  was  this 
merely  for  the  occasion,  as  the  hosj)itals  in  Spain  are  better 
managed  than  anything  else.  Among  the  patients  was  a  hand- 
some young  girl,  with  raven  hair;  her  face  slightly  flushed, 
but  without  the  a})pearance  of  suffering.  Her  suffused  eyes 
rested  dreamily  and  confi<Iingly  ujjoii  us  as  we  passed  by.  1 
shall  never  forget  the  expi'ession  of  that  innocent  face.  One 
such   look  of  relieved   sufferinir  would   reward  a  lifetime   of 


VIVARAMBLA. — THE    OIPSY    QUARTER.  325 

charity.  As  we  went  out  of  the  great  entrance,  I  i>lace(l  two 
pesetas  (forty  cents)  on  tlie  contribution  table.  "  You  are 
extravagant,"  said  a  friend.  "After  paying  five  for  a  gipsy 
dance,  I  thinlv  I  can  afford  two  to  a  liospital ,"  and  two  other 
pesetas  kept  mine  company. 

As  I  had  had  some  desire  to  see  a  gipsj^  dance,  we  conchided 
one  day  to  mount  the  Albaycin,  the  gipsy  quarter,  and  the 
home  of  the  poor  and  squalid  of  every  race,  in  order  to  engage 
the  dancers  ourselves.  The  old  city  was  confined,  for  the  most 
part,  to  the  Albaycin,  lying  Avcst  of  the  Darro,  which  Avas  for- 
merly peopled  by  the  Moors  of  Baeza,  wlio  removed  thither 
after  the  capture  of  that  city,  whence  its  name.  The  Alham- 
bra  lies  east  of  it.  and  the  Antequerula  between  the  foot  of  the 
latter  and  the  Genii.  Passing  from  the  head  of  the  Carrei-a 
del  Darro,  we  entered  the  Plaza  of  Vivarambla,  the  great 
square  of  the  Moorish  cit}',  famous  for  its  bull  fights  and 
Djerids,  where  the  lance  was  exchanged  for  the  reed.  Gran- 
ada, formerly,  had  twenty  gates,  among  them  yivaraml)la,  the 
Gate  of  the  Eiver,  or  rather  the  sand,  that  has  assumed  its 
present  name,  by  the  same  process  which  converted  Al  Ham- 
ra  into  Alhambra.  The  Spanish  language  has  adopted  the 
word  rambla  to  mean  the  sandy  bed  of  a  river,  Avhen  the 
water  has  been  dried  up  b}^  the  summer  heat.  This  famous 
square  of  the  Romanceros,  notwithstanding  modern  altera- 
tions, retains  something  of  its  ancient  appearance,  though,  like 
the  Gate  of  the  Sun  in  ^Madrid,  it  is  now  in  the  centre  of  the 
city.  Its  poetic  appellation  has,  with  singular  ill  taste,  been 
supplanted  by  the  prosaic  and  chronic  one  of  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitucion — one  of  the  inevitabilities  of  every  Si)anish  town. 
From  that  we  plunged  into  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  streets, 
which  finally  became  zigzags,  until  we  at  length  reached  ibf 
habitations  of  the  veritable  children  of  Moultan,  some  dwell- 
ing in  liouses  of  the  smallest  dimensions,  otlicrs  in  the  more 
])rimitive  style  of  caves.  These  latter  were  by  no  means  so 
despicable  as  might  be  su]>posed.  judging  them  b}'  our  own  wet 
country.  The  earth  is  firm,  and  there  is  little  or  no  moisture 
in  this  dry  climate,  so  that  tlie  occupants  Avcre  probably  as 
well  off  as  the  more  aristocratic  dwellers  in  houses.  The 
gipsies  congregate  in  Andalusia  and  Barcelona.  The  former  is 
their  favorite  of  the  earth,  and  they  have  all  sorts  of  tender 
expressions  for  this  land  of  choice.     Here  alone  do  they  seem 


32(i  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

to  have  a  fixe(l  rosiiKMicc.  The  date  of  their  entry  into  Spain 
is  uncertain,  but  jtrobahly  after  the  Moorish  power  lia»l  begun 
to  (K'oline.  No  allusion  is  made  to  them  as  haviuij  ]»laye<l  any 
part  ill  the  rivalry  of  the  religions,  whieh  they  certainly  would 
have  done.  They  were  required  by  the  royal  edict  to  adopt  a 
residence,  and  to  conform,  at  least  outwardly,  to  the  Catholic 
faith;  but  it  seems  doubtful  whether  they  have  any  real  belief 
beyttnd  this  existence. 

Mo.st  travellers  arc  wonderfully  struck  with  the  beauty  of 
the  young  women.  Elsewhere  I  might  have  agreed  with  the 
general  opinion,  but  when  compared  with  the  pure  l)looded 
Spaniard,  they  fell  in  my  estimation  far  below.  Their  com- 
plexion is  that  of  a  dark  mulatto.  The  contour  of  the  fai 
resembles  somewhat  the  North  American  Indian.  Their  eyes 
are  their  own — orbs  of  fire  with  no  shades  of  softness.  ])artak- 
intr  as  much  of  what  is  below  as  of  what  is  above  tlu-  earth. 
Toward  other  nations  their  chastity  is  absolute,  admitting  of 
no  exception.  But  among  each  other  the  marriage  tie  once 
contracted  tliey  live  the  life  of  ])igs  j  a  strange  medley  of  con- 
tradictions. The  occupation  of  the  men  consists  in  a  variety 
of  ])etty  employments — requiring  no  investment  of  cai>ital,  of 
which  they  are  singularly  deficient— smithing,  shearing  mul« 
and  dogs,  farriery,  swapping  and  selling  horses,  lying,  tliieviug 
and  roguiiig  in  general.  The  women  helj)  in  these  occupations 
so  far  as  they  can ;  make  mats  and  produce  vast  quantities  of 
j'oung  gipsies.  The  children  jtiek  up  stray  jobs,  hold  dogs' 
feet  while  the  hair  is  being  taken  oft'  by  their  elders,  filch  from 
the  pockets  of  short  men,  or  tall  ones,  if  there  bo  a  bench  near 
by,  and  make  themselves  useful  to  the  tribe  in  a  small  way. 
In  all  S])ain  I  knew  of  only  one  gipsy  who  followed  a  steady 
and  respectable  occujjation.  Prom  time  immemorial  the}'  have 
been  tacit!}*  allowed  to  govern  tlu'insclves.  under  a  cajitain  of 
their  own  choice.  Hut  1  was  told  tlial  iati'ly  i"  Barcelona 
they  had  been  brought  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  coinnion 
ti'ibunals,  and  now  stand  upon  the  same  footing  with  other 
subjects. 

We  stopped  in  front  of  a  house  and  looked  in  upon  a  collec- 
tion engaged  in  }»laiting  mats.  A  few  of  them,  with  coal  black, 
dishevelled  hair  and  intelligent,  flashing  eyes,  did  look  very  in- 
teresting, though  there  was  wanting  some  element  which  is 
indispensable  to  beauty.     AVe  were  welcomed  with  smiles,  per- 


VISTA    GENERAL. — THE    DANCE.  327 

haps  it  would  be  more  strictly  correct  to  su}'  that  our  guide 
was.  Preferring  to  sit  outside,  rieketj^  chairs  were  placed  on  a 
little  knoll  in  front,  and  we  were  specdilj'  surrounded,  the  news 
linving  spread  that  we  were  getting  up  a  ''funciou."  The 
3'oung  hopefuls  were  clad  in  extreme  summer  costun\e,  consist- 
ing frequently  of  nothing  but  their  own  skins,  which,  it  is  a 
thousand  pities,  they  could  not  take  off  occasionally  for  the 
purpose  of  having  them  washed.  They  were  intent  in  pursuit 
of  coppers,  and  avowed  their  willingness  to  turn  any  amount 
of  somersets  for  a  cuartito.  Those  of  a  more  advanced  age 
were  decently  clad  and  behaved  with  perfect  propriety.  We 
whiled  away  an  hour  in  this  outlandish  company,  making  our 
arrangements.  Four  of  the  j'oung  ladies  were  selected.  One 
of  them  was  really  good  looking,  with  a  frank,  smiling  counte- 
nance and  glorious  eyes;  modest  in  deportment  and  evidently 
a  belle.  I  commenced  a  most  innocent  flirtation  instanter. 
With  a  parting  recommendation  to  get  themselves  up  in  fine 
style,  we  passed  on  to  the  church  which  overhangs  the  valley 
of  the  Darro,  to  enjoy  the  vista  general.  The  terrace  com- 
mands the  city  and  Vega,  and  gives  in  addition  a  fine  view  of 
the  Alharabra  itself,  which  is  directly  opposite.  Descending 
thence  by  a  precipitous  Moorish  street,  the  houses  being  within 
touch  on  either  hand,  we  called  at  the  residence  of  an  artist, 
who  was  engaged  by  the  Emperor  of  Russia  to  copy  portions 
of  the  Alhambra  on  a  reduced  scale.  The  work  is  beautifully 
executed  and  faithful  to  the  minutest  line,  for  the  present  Em- 
peror seems  determined  to  follow  the  example  of  his  father  in 
developing  the  taste  as  well  as  the  material  resources  of  his 
vast  empire.  Proceeding  on  our  way,  the  guide  pointed  out^ 
one  of  the  two  houses  that  enjoyed  the  right  of  sanctuary, 
which  he  assured  us  was  still  respected,  though  I  think  ho 
must  be  in  error.  We  then  turned  into  the  Zacatin,  the  famous 
shopping  street  both  now  and  under  the  Moors.  It  preserves 
its  name  and  appearance  with  scarce!}^  an  alteration.  An 
awning  drawn  over  excluded  the  rays  of  noon  and  rendered  it 
a  pleasant  resort  for  the  idle  fair  of  Granada. 

After  nightfall  we  assembled  at  the  residence  of  the  captain 
of  the  gipsies  to  witness  the  funeion.  The  former  dignitary 
had  died.  His  successor  was  a  rather  young  man,  of  hand- 
some appearance,  and  manners  quite  genteel.  We  foreigners, 
three  in  number,  took  our  seats  in  a  row;  the  performers,  con- 


328  8PAIX    ANH    THE    SPANIARDS. 

si.stin*^  of  the  four  danisels  and  one  of  the  other  sex,  wlio  was 
a  famous  dancer,  sat  opposite.  Tlie  captain's  wife  held  a  cen- 
tral jjosition  with  the  collection  hat  in  her  hand,  while  the 
native  s])ectators  scattered  ])roniiscuously  around.  The  per- 
formance was  opened  l»y  the  captain,  who  i^ave  us  several 
pieces  upon  the  guitar.  Those  wlu»  have  never  seen  this 
instrument  in  the  hands  of  a  Spaniard,  can  form  little  concep- 
tion of  its  ])0wers.  lie  had  learned  entirely  hy  ear,  yet  his 
performance  was  wonderlul.  JIaviiii!;  (■atistic<l  us  with  his 
music,  he  gave  us  a  specimen  of  his  skill,  playing  it  hrhind 
his  back,  and  over  his  head,  and  under  his  feet,  and  finally 
with  his  elbows.  lie  then  took  a  tambourine  and  knocked 
liimself  with  it  all  over,  from  his  crown  to  his  sole,  in  the  style 
of  Elliiopian  dancers,  only  more  so.  Our  unqualitied  approba- 
tion was  justly  bestowed  and  gracefully  acknowledged.  The 
space  was  now  cleared  for  the  dancers,  who  first  appeared  in 
twos.  Before  taking  her  position,  each  gave  her  handkerchief 
to  one  of  the  company  to  hold.  ^ly  beauty  coinpiotod  her 
conquest  by  the  selection  of  her  knight.  There  is  nothing  of 
the  Othello  about  these  handkerchiefs,  except  that  they  must 
be  returned  when  called  for,  and  it  would  bo  the  height  of 
impoliteness  to  hand  them  back  em))ty.  I  happened  to  have 
some  American  cents,  of  the  now  coinage,  wliich  wore  dis- 
tributed among  the  silver,  and  seomod  to  give  gi'oat  satisliic- 
tion.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  their  duslvj'  red  hue  did  not  cause 
llioin  to  l»e  mistaken  for  the  more  precious  metal.  It  would  be 
as  well  not  to  enter  too  minutely  into  a  descrijjtion  of  the 
dances.  They  are  derived  from  Ilindoslan,  and  are  supposed 
to  be  identical  with  those  which  delighted  the  wits  and  joyous 
revellers  of  the  lower  empire.  One  of  the  comjiany  had  seen 
them  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  where  they  would  be  more 
ai)i)ropriate  than  in  a  modern  ball  room.  In  a  histoi-ical  point 
of  view  they  were  interesting  enough.  Some  of  them  were  of 
later  origin  and  proper.  One  called  El  Torillo,  or  the  Little 
Bull,  was  an  imitation  of  a  bull  tight,  rather  a  difficult  subject 
to  j)ortray  in  a  ballet.  But  I  have  seen  Faust  danced,  and  if 
German  metaphysics  can  bo  expressed  in  the  poetry  of  motion, 
why  should  not  the  bull  fight  have  a  trial?  The  sound  of  the 
castagnettes  had,  meanwhile,  collected  an  audience  outside, 
who  mingled  their  ajjplause  willi  our  own,  the  gamins  divei-si- 
lying   the    entertainment   by   climbing    the    grating  and   slil}' 


EXPULSION    OF    THE    MORISCOES.  329 

pulling-  our  coat  tails.  An  indignant  exhortation  from  the 
captain,  or  rather  a  speech,  consisting  of  some  half  a  dozen 
score  of  Spanish  and  gipsy  oaths,  restored  order.  After  a 
couple  of  hours  I  took  my  departure  with  the  conclusion  that  I 
had  seen  gipsy  dances  enough  to  last  me  my  lifetime.  It  is 
one  of  the  orthodox  sights,  and  has  to  be  seen  once,  but  the 
guide  informed  us  that  Louis  Xapoleon  was  the  only  person, 
in  his  recollection,  who  had  ever  called  for  a  repetition. 

Granada  is  no  longer  that  centre  of  wealth  which  it  was  said 
to  have  been  formerly.  Manufjictures  and  commerce  there  are 
none.  The  population  is  purely  agricultural,  and  quite  as  great 
as  the  country  can  support,  unless  the  science  of  production  be 
improved.  Its  decline  has  been  ver^^  generally  attributed  to 
the  expulsion  of  the  Moriscoes  hy  Philip  III,  and  this  measure 
has  been  condemned  under  everj^  point  of  view — economical, 
political  and  moral.  About  the  political  I  think  there  is  room 
for  doubt.  The  conversion  of  the  Moors  after  the  concpiest 
was  purely  nominal.  Crowds  were  collected,  a  little  water 
sprinkled  over  them  with  a  brush,  and  the  change  of  faith 
accomplished.  To  suppose  that  the  opinions  or  sympathies  of 
the  ba]itized  population  underwent  any  alteration  would  be 
prcjiosterous.  They  continued  at  heart  as  they  had  alwaj's 
been,  not  onl}'-  Mohammedans,  but  Moors  longing  for  the  return 
of  their  countr^^men,  and  read}'  to  join  an  invading  army,  or  to 
pre]iai'e  tlieir  entrance.  It  is  well  enough  at  our  day  to  speak 
of  toleration  and  to  condemn  ebullitions  of  bigotr}'  in  the  past, 
but  such  is  not  history.  Questions  of  faith  in  those  days  were 
questions  of  nationality,  and  oil  and  water  were  easier  to  mix 
than  Moslem  and  Christian,  according  to  the  practice  of  the 
latter.  Coni])ared  Avith  the  Moors,  the  Spanish  were  in  excess 
of  intolerance  J  compared  with  other  nations  of  Europe,  they 
wei'e  disciples  of  a  common  faith,  whose  usual  argument  was 
the  sword.  AVe  have  had  in  our  own  country  an  experience  of 
the  inconvenience  which  results  from  the  existence  of  an  un- 
harmonizing,  worldl}'  and  semi-political  religion  within  our 
borders.  Yet  the  handful  of  Mormons  is  nothing  compared 
with  the  population  of  Granada,  occupj-ing  the  seacoast  directly 
opposite  to  Africa,  where  their  fellows  were  still  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  pristine  vigor.  Few  will  doubt  that  in  a  political  point 
of  view  the  exodus  of  Brigham  Young  was  an  immense  benefit 
to  the  State  of  Illinois.     The  humanity  of  the  expulsion  in 


830  SPAIN    ANI>   THK   SPANIARDS. 

cither  case  is  another  matter.  But  in  the  aflfairs  of  the  wprld 
political  ncccssit}'  is  apt  to  override  all  obstacles.  The  extfomo 
measures  taken  against  the  Moriscoes  were  harsh  and  liarshly 
executed;  yet  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  of  their  neif^hboi-a 
would  have  acted  more  gently.  Events  of  even  a  half  ceuturv 
later  in  America  depri\'C  us  the  privilege  of  casting  a  stou  , 
and  the  jiuiiishment  of  death  upon  a  Jesuit  for  simply  landing 
upon  the  shores  of  England  estops  criticism  from  that  quartei*. 
It  must,  however,  have  been  a  mournful  sight  to  witness  the 
extinction  of  this  gallant  race,  to  which  medijcval  Kui-opc  was 
indebted  for  so  man}'  ameliorating  institutions — ameliorations 
she  has  not  been  eager  to  acknowledge.  Most  of  what  formed 
the  romance  of  earlier  daN-s  throughout  the  Continent  is  trace- 
able to  the  Peninsula,  where  the  rude,  sturdy  Teutonic  and 
elegant,  poetic  Oriental  were  subjected  to  mutual  influences. 
One  of  the  most  conclusive  evidences  of  the  utter  rudeness  and 
barbarism  of  Euro2>c  in  the  eighth,  ninth  and  tenth  centuries, 
the  darkest  of  the  dark  ages,  is  the  unanimity'  Avith  which  the 
feudal  system  was  received.  This  was  a  great  progi'ess,  a 
long  step  in  advance,  Init  how  miserable  must  have  been  the 
condition  of  society  which  required  such  a  remedy.  It  had  no 
existence  in  Spain,  because  the  8})anish  civilization  had  never 
reached  such  a  pitch  of  violence  and  anarchy  as  to  require  it. 
About  that  time  the  IJeni  Omeyah  were  at  the  acme  of  their 
glory,  and  the  softening  light  of  Cordova  penetrated  even  to 
the  farthest  corners  of  the  north-west.  The  Spaniard  inherited 
from  bis  (Jothic  ancestors  fierce  courage,  valor,  the  sentiment 
of  personal  honor,  the  duel,  the  judgment  of  (iod,  fidelity  to 
his  chieftain,  and  the  other  j)oiiits  wiiicli  chaiacterized  the 
Teutonic  civilization.  The  Oi'iental  to  a  valor  quite  tiie  equal 
of  his  rival,  united  other  qualities  which  were  consiilered  no 
less  necessary  to  the  character  of  a  warrior,  viz :  poetry,  grace, 
elegant  horsemanshii),  skill  in  wetipons,  gallantry,  fidelity  to 
plighted  word,  and  mercy  to  the  conquered.  The  result  was  a 
military  fraternitj'  between  the  warriors  of  the  two  nations, 
and  a  common  military  character  to  which  the  Teutonic 
element  contributed  the  strength  and  the  defects,  the  Oriental 
the  virtues  and  elegancies.  Hence  sprang  chivalry,  which 
spread  gradually  over  Europe,  and  contained  the  first  germ  of 
civilization.  The  contest  of  Iteeds  (juegos  de  Caiias,  the  Djerid 
of  the  polished  Moors)  was  imitated  b}'  the  northern  nations  in 


ROMANTIC    CHARACTER    OF    THE    WARS.  331 

the  joust  and  toin-naiuent.  Indeed,  it  is  questionable  whether 
the  institution  of  chivalry  as  described  in  the  romances  had  a 
veritable  existence  out  of  Spain.  No  where  else  were  cele- 
brated Pasos  ITonrosos  such  as  that  of  the  bridge  of  Orbigo,  in 
which  Suero  de  Quifiones,  aided  by  nine  other  knights,  defied 
all  passers  b}',  in  order  that  he  might  remove  from  his  neck  an 
iron  collar  whieh  he  wore  in  honor  of  his  n\istress.  In  this 
encounter  more  lances  were  broken  than  is  mentioned  in  any 
similar  trial.  Wherever  the  Spanish  authority  extended,  a  taste 
for  these  encounters  revived,  though  it  had  almost  disappeared 
under  the  pi'ogress  of  j^olitical  science.  Giucciardini  gives  a 
detailed  account  of  a  battle  of  champions  in  the  Spanish  wars 
in  Italy,  merely  from  the  point  of  honor.  Numerous  others 
are  recorded,  but  all  of  date  long  subsequent  to  their  origin  in 
the  Peninsula,  Avhence  they  were  indisputably  derived.  In  one 
of  the  campaigns  of  the  Ilagib  al  Mausour,  as  far  back  as  the 
tenth  centur}',  an  account  is  incidentall}-  given  of  a  similar 
challenge  on  the  part  of  a  Christian  knight,  Avhich  resulted  in 
the  defeat  of  all  the  Mohammedan  champions  except  one,  who, 
mounted  on  a  sorr}'  nag,  yd  carried  off  the  victory.  Such  con- 
tests, merely  from  a  chivali'ous  desire  to  test  the  prowess  of  an 
adversary,  were  favorites  with  the  Spaniards  and  Moors,  and 
these  gallant  encounters  lend  a  charm  to  their  history  which 
none  other  can  hope  to  possess.  They  are  justly  entitled  to 
the  credit  of  having  revolutionized  war.  Before  their  day,  it 
was  a  brutal,  bloody,  ferocious  means  of  destruction.  Gentle 
mercy  to  the  vanquished  was  as  unknown  to  the  Hebrews, 
Greeks,  or  Romans,  as  to  the  Franks  or  Anglo-Saxons.  Hence 
arises  the  charm  of  romantic  chivalry  hanging  around  these 
Andalusian  battle  fields,  which  will  be  vainl}^  sought  elsewhere, 
for  here  alone  was  a  distinction  recognized  between  the  armed 
foe,  careering  in  the  pride  of  equal  strength,  and  the  same  foe 
dismounted  and  prostrate  under  the  victor's  feet.  It  is  no 
wonder  then  that  the  gallant  spirits  of  the  rest  of  Europe 
should  flock  to  Spain  as  the  land  of  romantic  adventure,  and 
the  proper  theatre  for  the  displaj'  of  knightly  prowess ;  that  the 
Douglas  should  perish  at  the  siege  of  Teba;  that  the  Counts  de 
Arbi  and  Solusber  (as  they  Jire  stj'led  in  the  Chronicle)  should 
fight  by  the  side  of  the  gallant  hero  of  the  Salado;  that  Lord 
Scales  should  come  from  the  mi.sty  north-west  to  the  siege  of 


332  SPAIN    AM)    THK    SPANIARDS. 

Grannda,  and  tliat  Clmuccr  should  consider  the  proudest  recom- 
mendation of  a  knight — 

In  Gcrnn<lc  at  the  scigc  cko  ha<Klc  bo  be 
Of  Algcsir. 

Yet  wlint  historian  has  had  the  justice  to  trace  chivalry  to  its 
true  source.  Spaniards  have  never  heou  i^iven  to  hook  makin<i:, 
and,  verily,  Esop's  fable  of  the  man  and  the  lion  is  the  expe- 
rience of  all  ages. 

The  pundonor  or  point  of  honor,  distinguished  from  the  ven- 
geance of  the  northern  nations,  sprang  from  the  same  origin. 
As  the  other  quality  mentioned  above  Avas  derived  from  the 
Oriental,  so  did  this  come  remotely  from  the  Teutonic  element, 
but  modified  in  a  similar  manner  by  contact  with  the  enlight- 
ened Andalusians.  To  this  day  it  is  as  unknown  among  the 
Italians  or  the  Scandinavians  as  it  was  to  their  ancestors.  But 
to  pursue,  in  all  its  developments,  the  influence  of  the  llispano- 
Moresco  civilization  upon  the  world  would  make  a  book,  a  his- 
tory of  the  Peninsula,  such  afe  no  one  as  yet  has  seen  fit  to 
write.  Without  such  investigation,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to 
appreciate  the  Moors.  The  work  of  Perez  de  Ilyta  bears  ujion 
its  face  unmistakable  marks  of  relationship  with  Amadis  de 
Gaula  and  Palinevin  de  Inglaterra,  yet  the  sjiirit  is  doubtless 
correctly  portrayed,  though  the  narrative  be  mostly  fictitious. 
But  the  Beni  Serraj  and  the  Zegris  have  alike  disa])i)eared,  anil 
they  and  their  contemporaries  are  remembered  rather  for  what 
they  certainly  did  not  than  for  what  thoy  did. 


Chapter  XVllI. 
GRANADA   BY   JAEN   TO   MADRID. 

Puerto  (Ic  Arenas — Approach  to  Jacn — View  from  the  Cattle — The  Paseo — To 
Bailen — Mcnjabar — Dcspoiiapcrros — Leave  Andalusia — La  Jlaneha — Oil  Jars — 
Beggars — Arrive  at  Madrid. 

It  had  been  my  intention  to  proceed  by  Murcia  and  Orihuela, 
two  of  the  most  beautiful  Yegas  in  Spain,  to  Carthagena  and 
palm-embowered  Elchc,  but  the  cholera  unfortunately  was  rav- 
aging that  country,  and  the  seaports  were  all  under  quarantine, 
so  I  must  needs  content  myself  with  the  inland  route  to  Mad- 
rid, whither  I  was  obliged  to  return.  • 

At  an  carl}^  hour  of  the  next  morning,  therefore,  I  was  upon 
the  balcony  waiting  for  the  diligence  to  Jaen.  The  moon  was 
still  silvering  over  the  city,  though  the  daylight  was  visible  on 
the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  coloring  the  snow  upon  their 
bosoms  with  a  faint  rosy  blush.  Our  road  ascended  quickly 
out  of  the  Yega,  and  afforded  kaleidoscopic  views  of  its  beauties 
under  the  varying  aspect  of  the  morning  light,  until  turning  a 
shoulder  in  the  ridge,  we  suddenly  lost  sight  of  Granada  and 
its  glories :  but  our  way  was  still  enlivened  by  the  appearance 
of  wild  flowers  and  fields  until  we  entered  the  Sieri-a  Susana. 
The  pass  is  not  a  lofty  one,  and  consequently  presents  nothing 
that  is  entitled  to  be  considered  grand,  but  the  passage  through 
the  Puerto  de  Arenas  is  very  curious,  and  is  really  a  "  gate." 
It  a])])ears  as  though  a  perpendicular  slab  had  been  taken  out 
of  the  Avail  for  the  river  bed,  and  so  narrow  is  the  passage,  that 
it  is  necessary  to  tunnel  for  the  road,  as  there  is  absolutely  not 
room  for  lioth.  Commanding  the  entrance  to  the  kingdom  of 
Granada,  it  Avas  often  contested  in  the  olden  time,  and  its  wa- 
ters were  as  frequently  tinged  witli  human  blood  as  an}-  others 
consecrated  in  tlie  ballads.  No  place  in  the  country  could  be 
better  suited  for  such  a  purpose.     A  few  leagues  farther  on 


334  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    Sl'ANIAUDS. 

opened  to  us  tlic  luountain  j)aii()ranKi  of  .laon.  :i  truly  inagiii- 
ficent  pros])i'ct.  with  all  the  stern  j^raiideur  wliieh  so  eniiueiitly 
charaeti'iizes  the  mounlain  seeneryof  the  Peninsula.  The  city 
was  still  a  considerable  distance  from  us.  It  lies  upon  the  lofty 
ground  in  front  of  the  Sierra,  or  rather  upon  the  proiec-linij 
breast  of  the  chain,  and  appeared  to  be  half  way  to  the  heav- 
ens. Behind  it  rises  the  bare  and  cheerless  mountain  range, 
which  is  so  elevated,  as.  in  winter,  seriously  to  interfere  with  the 
comfort  of  the  ])lain  by  interce])ting  the  sun's  rays.  The  as- 
pect of  the  city  itself  was  consonant  with  the  scener}*  around, 
and  it  wt-ll  deserved  the  apitellation  of  the  Citadel  of  Andalusia. 
The  old  Moorish  walls  can  be  traced  winding  over  the  hills  up 
to  the  Castle,  and  the  towers  of  its  churches  still  give  it  the 
appearance  of  an  ancient  fortress.  Ik'tween  us  la}*  the  broad 
vallc}'  of  the  river  Jaen.  From  reading  the  history  of  the  re- 
conquest  of  Spain  by  the  Moors,  and  of  the  many  notable  feats 
of  arms  that  had  been  enacted  in  the  neighborhood,  I  had 
formed  an  expectation  which  Mas  not  disa]ipointed  by  the 
reality.  It  is  the  beau  ideal  of  a  Moorish  outjjost.  and  unites 
all  the  elements  of  picturesque  beauty  which  seem  to  have 
guided  those  elegant  Orientals  in  their  choice  of  sites  for  their 
cities.  Descending  from  the  branch  of  the  Sierra  which  sej)a- 
rates  it  from  (Jranada,  we  crossed  the  fertile  Vega  and  com- 
menced the  ascent,  and  after  much  shouting  and  trouble, 
arrived  at  our  destination  in  a  clean  street  ])aved  with  rough 
stones.  As  few  travellers  halt  in  this  time-honored  but  some- 
what sliruiikt'M  place,  the  Posada  was  none  of  the  best,  and  did 
not  exceed  what  a  reasonable  traveller  might  have  justly  de- 
manded. 

The  boast  of  Jaen,  in  the  wa}'  of  sights,  is  its  Cathedral — 
a  beautiful  structure  in  the  modern  classic  8t3de — and  viewing 
the  present  condition  of  the  cit}'^  the  wonder  is,  why  such  an 
amount  should  have  been  expended  in  an  unimportant  town  on 
the  side  of  a  mountain.  It  is  graml  in  dimensions,  of  a  very 
pure  style  of  architecture,  and  abounds  in  beautitul  marbles,  all 
from  the  neighborhood.  It  enjoys,  furthermore,  the  reputation 
of  possessing  precious  relics,  such  as  the  handkerchief  of  St. 
Veronica  with  the  miraculous  image  of  the  Saviour's  face, 
which  1  did  not  see.  But  the  ti'uo  beauty  of  Jaen  depen<ls 
upon  its  situation.  Being  thus  at  the  base  of  a  lofty  Sierra,  it 
is   abundantly   supplied   with    fountains   and   deliciously   cool 


VIEW    FROM    THE    CASTLE. PASEO.  335 

■water,  which  Avill  render  any  spot  in  Andalusia  charming,  and 
the  viewt^  from  its  Alameda  are  unsurpassed.  The  old  Moorish 
walls  still  exist,  in  a  dilapidated  state,  and  wind  picturesquely 
up  the  hillside  to  the  castle,  whence  the  prospect  b}'  sunset  is 
superb.  The  mountain  chain  behind,  running  north-west  and 
south-east,  casts  its  shade  over  the  valley  even  to  the  foot  of  the 
ridge  Ave  had  descended  in  the  morning,  alternating  with  the 
green  herbage  of  the  river  bank  and  the  bare  rocks  beyond, 
across  and  through  which  wound  the  white  road  until  it  was 
lost  in  the  distant  Puerto  de  Arenas,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
valley  of  the  G-enil.  To  the  left,  at  right  angles,  far  below,  was 
the  ever  graceful  Graudalcpiivir,  and  crowning  the  valle}^  to  the 
north  rose,  in  the  distance,  the  tremendous  mass  of  the  Sierra 
Morena,  while  the  peaks  in  front  and  on  both  sides  were  bathed 
in  the  rose  and  purple  light  of  the  hour.  Owing  to  the  great 
elevation  of  the  city  the  prospect  was  extensive,  comprehend- 
ing a  considerable  portion  of  the  kingdom  of  the  name.  No 
wonder  that  it  proved  so  long  a  barrier  to  the  Christian  power, 
and  that  their  armies  had  so  often  retreated  from  its  walls 
'*  farther  than  the  Pleiades." 

As  the  shades  of  night  fell  I  returned  to  the  uninviting 
Posada,  and  was  meditating  upon  the  difficult  problem  of  pass- 
ing an  evening  agreeably  in  a  strange  place,  with  but  little 
prospect  of  a  successful  solution,  when  I  found  that  my  two 
companions  of  the  morning  ride,  who  were  retui'ning  from  the 
Baths  of  Carratraca,  had  taken  a  Samaritan's  compassion  and 
had  called  to  invite  me  to  an  evening  promenade  upon  the 
Paseo.  The  courte.sj^  Avas  as  unexpected  as  it  was  acceptable, 
and  we  took  our  place  among  the  crowd  to  enjoy  the  glories 
of  a  Se])teml)er  night  on  an  Andalusian  mountain  slope.  They 
soon  met  some  ladies  of  their  acquaintance  seated  in  chairs 
upon  the  side  of  the  walk,  and  I  was  presented,  in  the  informal 
way  usual  upon  such  occasions,  as  a  Cabalhro  estratigrro,  who 
had  made  the  journey  with  them — and  this  seemed  quite  suffi- 
cient recommendation.  In  the  course  of  the  conversation  I 
found  that  the  I'lderly  lad}' was  the  mother  of  the  two  younger, 
and  the  names  of  tlie  latter  were  Clara  and  Eugenia.  Dofia 
Eugenia  was  a  blonde,  with  bright  blue  eyes  (ojos  zarcos), 
glossj-  dai'k  hair,  and  an  elegant  tigure,  such  as  nature  kindly 
bestows  upon  most  An«hduzas  of  eighteen.  She  seemed  a  very 
mountain  rose — somewhat  doubtful  at  first  of  the  deportment 


0 

336  8I'AIN    AXn    THE    SPANIARDS. 

she  ^ifplld  assume  towar.l  a  jit'i-son  who  lived  tlic  other  side 
of  three  tliousand  miles  of  water,  but  this  soon  wore  away,  and 
we  eoiumenccd  our  conversation  about  the  Moorish  war,  which 
at  that  time  occupied  all  thou<;hts.  The  ladies  were  very 
enthusia.stic  for  the  honor  of  Spain,  and  stamped  their  little 
feet  ujton  the  ground  when  speaking  of  the  insults  which  had 
been  offered  to  the  garrison  at  Ceuta.  Thoroughly  Andaluzas, 
every  gesture,  movement,  thought,  was  grace  jiersonified.  At 
anything  startling,  Bofla  Eugenia,  exclaiming  "  Santissima 
Virgin  .'"  would  cross  herself  so  prettily  that  even  the  Emperor 
of  Alniagi'clt  himself  would  have  been  converted.  How  the 
hours  llcw  li}-!  Star  after  star  waned  before  the  increasing 
brilliancy  of  the  moonbeams,  and  eleven  o'clock  had  ]>asscd  ere 
we  took  leave  of  our  fair  com])ani(;ns  and  one  of  the  gentlemen 
at  the  grating  of  their  door.  I  lingered  a  monient  until  Euge- 
nia's lace  veil  disappeared  behind  the  sjjarkling  fountain  of  the 
Patio,  and  checking  a  rising  curiosity,  supposed  to  be  peculiar 
to  our  countr}',  exi)ressed  sincere  thanks  to  my  entertainer  for 
the  pleasure  of  the  evening,  as  we  parted  at  tlie  door  of  the 
Posada. 

The  next  morning  was  wearisome  enough  while  waiting  for 
the  diligence  from  Granada.  13e3-ond  what  I  mentioned,  .laen 
offers  few  attractions.  According  to  the  Moorish  accounts,  it 
was  once  celebrated  for  its  silk  manufactures,  and  Al  Makkari 
sa3's  it  was  called  Jaen  al  llarrir,  or  .laen  of  the  Silk  ;  but  man- 
ufactures have  disappeared,  and  it  is  now  the  residence  of  a 
])urely  agricultural  population.  The  neighboring  country.  like 
all  that  which  boi'ders  upon  the  CJuadalquivir  anil  its  tributary 
streams,  was,  and  is  yet,  famous  for  its  horses,  which,  in  better 
days,  were  little  inferior  to  Ai'al>s.  Of  products  of  the  soil  it 
fujMiislies  a  superabundance,  foi-  though  the  mountain  sides  and 
elevateil  plains  are  comparatively  sterile,  its  valleys  riot  in 
fertility. 

About  nf)on  the  diligence  made  its  appearance  and  we  thun- 
dered down  the  slope.  A  journey  of  three  or  four  leagues 
brought  us  to  the  valley  of  the  Guadalquivir.  The  Pride  of 
Betica  was  so  reduced  in  dimensions  that  1  did  not  recognize 
it  at  a  distance,  and  was  surprised  to  sec  a  strange  and  unusual 
airy  structure  extending  across  a  part  of  the  valley,  and  a  clus- 
ter of  tall  chimneys  upon  the  summit  of  the  distant  ridge  to  the 
north  vomiting  f(n-th  their  smoke  against  the  cloudless  blue  of 


JOURNEY    TO    BATLEN. — DEgPENA-PERROS.  337 

the  sky.  The  hitter  were  at  the  famous  mine  of  Linares,  cele- 
brated even  in  ancient  days  for  its  stores  of  lead  anc^  copjier, 
and  the  former  was  the  suspension  bridge  of  Men ji bar.  How 
misplaced  and  unnatural  it  appeared  in  this  land  of  massive 
masonry!  for  Spain  is  distinguished  b}'  the  almost  unnecessary 
solidity  of  its  public  edifices.  Both  were  unusual  sights  in  a 
countrj'  where  the  traveller  seems  to  have  left  modern  inven- 
tions behind  him.  Passing  over  the  bridge  we  continued  our 
way  to  Bailen,  where  it  unites  with  the  grand  route  from 
Seville,  and  we  retraced  slow!}'  the  road  which  I  had  descended 
a  couple  of  months  before.  The  good  meal  at  Bailen  prepared 
us  for  crossing  the  Sierra  Morena,  and  a  detachment  of  beggars 
welcomed  us  into  and  out  of  the  town  wishing  us  a  good  diges- 
tion— and  the  poorest  beggars  I  had  seen  for  man}^  a  day.  A 
gentleman  from  Madrid  here  entered  the  berliiia  and  gave  me 
the  pleasure  of  his  company  to  Tembleque.  lie  was  on  his  ivny 
to  bring  his  wife  to  Andalusia  to  spend  the  winter  for  her 
health.  Fortunately,  I  had  met  and  exchanged  cards  with  a 
friend  and  schoolmate  of  his,  which  at  once  placed  us  upon  a 
footing  of  friendship,  and  caused  him  to  supply  me  with  notes  to 
his  famih^and  friends  in  Madrid,  which,  to  mj' regret,  I  had  not 
time  to  deliver.  Ilis  manners  were  courteous  and  his  informa- 
tion by  no  means  restricted,  so  that  his  society  converted  a 
tedious  into  a  very  pleasant  journey. 

Passing  through  Carolina,  Las  Navas,  and  other  villages  of 
what  are  called  the  '*  Nuevas  Poblaciones,"  we  commenced  at 
Sta.  Helena  the  long  ascent  of  the  Siei-ra  Morena.  This 
famous  pass,  which  connects  Andalusia  Avith  the  interior,  is 
known  by  the  name  of  Despena-perros,  interpreted  by  some 
"throw  the  dogs  (?'.  e.  the  enemy)  over;"  by  others  as  signify- 
ing a  place  where  a  dog  might  easil}'  fall  over.  In  former 
times  it  well  deserved  its  name,  as  the  most  break-neck  place 
in  the  four  kingdoms  of  Andalusia.  B}'  the  enlightened  efforts 
of  the  Count  of  Florida  Blanca,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  III,  a 
magniticent  road  was  constructed,  quite  equal  to  any  of  those 
which  have  been  sul)sequenth'  made  in  Switzerland,  except 
that  there  are  no  avalanches  to  be  guarded  against.  At  this 
season  of  the  j'car  much  of  the  splendid  masonry  work  seems 
to  be  an  unnecessary  waste  of  labor;  scores  of  bridges,  built  in 
the  most  massive  style,  span  tiny  rivulets  and  ravines,  which 
are  now  perfectly  dry,  but  in  the  winter  and  spring  become 
23 


338  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

furious  torrents,  8wecj)ing  everything  iK'fore  them.  The  scenery 
is  of  th(j  grandest  description.  On  each  side  of  the  road  stand 
loltv  crajrs  of  brownish  rocks,  rearing  their  perpendicular  sides 
until  tlu'V  are  lost  to  view — monarchs  in  the  solitude.  Tropical 
vegetation  is  soon  left ;  all  the  grades  of  the  temperate  zone  in 
turn  disai)pear;  a  few  firs  struggle  out  from  sheltered  crevices, 
but  even  these  cease,  and  the  wildest  solitude  reigns  over  the 
face  of  nature.  Descending  into  and  crossing  a  deep  and  broad 
ravine  that  makes  its  way  up  to  the  nortii-west,  we  commenced 
the  tinal  ascent  of  the  pass  itself  In  spite  of  the  warnings  of 
robbers,  which  the  neighborhood  of  the  far-famed  Venta  do 
Cardenas  rendered  not  altogether  pointless,  I  dismounted  and 
walked  on  aliead  of  the  toiling  mules.  A  perpendicular  moun- 
tain side  bounded  the  way  on  the  left,  a  ]>recipice  on  the  right. 
From  the  depth  below  rose,  on  the  opposite  side,  the  naked  rock 
to  ^n  equal  height.  Eeaching  the  summit,  I  sat  ujiun  the 
])urapct  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  vehicle.  The  situation  was 
indescribably  lonely.  It  was  just  midnight.  A  cdM  wind 
swept  up  the  valley,  and  the  moon  threw. a  pale  light  down 
into  the  gorge,  causing  each  rock  to  assume  fantastic  shapes, 
and  peopling  the  solitude  Avith  giant  forms.  An  open  space  to 
the  north,  faintly  illuminated  by  its  glimmering  rays,  repre- 
sented the  vast  plain  of  La  Mancha.  In  front  frowned  the 
beetling  precipice,  and  above  and  around  i-eigned  the  quiet  of 
desolation,  unltroken  save  by  the  rumbling  of  the  diligence  in 
the  valley  below.  The  cheerless  aspect  without  reacted  upon 
the  spirit  within  ;  it  was  natural  to  feel  gloomy  in  such  a  i)lace 
at  such  an  hour  and  on  such  an  occasion.  At  the  f<^ot  of  these 
mountains  lay  I'omantic  Andalusia.  How  dilVcrent  were  the 
feelings  with  wliicb,  on  lirst  crossing.  1  had  here  welcomed  the 
Land  of  the  South  !  J  was  now  to  say  farewell;  farewell  to  its 
olives  and  citrons;  farewell  to  the  sweet  song  of  its  nightin- 
gales; farewell  to  its  gentle  zephyrs,  laden  with  the  perfume  of 
the  rose  and  the  violet;  farewell  to  the  golden  waters  of  its 
Guadalquivir  and  to  the  pui-i)le  light  of  its  sunsets;  farewell  to 
those  whose  memory  lends  an  undying  charm  to  all  that  is  and 
exists  in  this  glowing  land;  farewell !  a  long  farewell ! 

The  descent  into  La  Mancha  is  by  no  means  so  gi-eat  as  into 
Andalusia;  the  table-land  of  the  interior  being  scarcely  less 
than  2,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Manzanares  and 
Val  do  Peuas  seemed  dustier  and  poorer  than  ever.     On  cVery 


WINE    AND    OLIVE    JARS. — ARRIVE    AT    MADRID.  339 

side  extended  an  arid,  treeless  expanse.    The  road  was  tlir()ni;-ed 
with  vehicles  returnin<i;  from  the  transportation  uf  oil  and  wine. 
Each   contained  one  huge  earthen  AH  Baba  jar,  some  six  or 
eight  feet  in  depth  and  of  a  diameter  in  proportion.     Eows  of 
vehicles  would  follow  each  other,  the  drivers  for  the  most  pai't 
quietly  asleep  in  the  jars,  trusting  the  mules  to  '"take  to  the 
right,"  as  the  law  directs.     This  confidence  avus  not  otten  mis- 
placed, for  the  Spanish  mule  is  exceedingly  sagacious.     I  have 
seen   them  in  scavenger  carts   arrange    the    supporting   stick 
themselves  when  told  to  halt;  and  a  team  of  eight  is  frequently 
guided  at  half  speed  by  the  voice  alone,  every  one  seeming  to 
recognize  his  name  and  to  distinguish  "  dipitana-d-d-ah  "  from 
^'  Jfach6-6-6."     Several  limes  we  passed  companies  of  soldiers 
on   their  wa}'  to   the  camp  at  Algeciras.     Their  spirits  were 
godd.  and  the  rate  at  which  they  moved  surprising,  though  it 
would  have  been  a  great  saving  of  human  legs  to  have  taken 
the  railroad  to  Alicante  and  gone  thence  by  sea.     It  may  be 
that  the  rumors  of  the  cholera  caused  this  route  to  be  preferred. 
At  Tembleque  we  halted  to  await  the  train  from  the  east. 
The  same  boj'S  were  there  to  ask  for  coppers;  one  was  deaf  and 
dumb.     To  him  I  gave  two — one  for  each  affliction.     The  rest 
of  the  passengers  asked  me  if  we  had  beggars  in  America.     I 
replied  no;  at  least  not  in  that  part  of  the  country  which  was 
known  to  me;    that  ever}-  honest,  industrious  man   could  at 
least  g:iin  a  livelihood,  and  though  there  were  many  disagreea- 
ble things  home,  this  alone  Mould  compensate  for  them  all  if 
one  were  reduced  to  a  comparison  with  Euroi:)e.     They  agreed 
with  me  in  the  conclusion,  but  evidently  did  not  com])rehend 
how  such  a  state  of  things  could  exist,  as  the  idea  of  one  class 
having  nothing  to  do  and  living  upon  another  class,  who  fre- 
quently cannot  find  sufficient  honest  emplo3'ment  to  eke  out  a 
support,  is  deeply  rooted  in  all  European  systems.  A  long  train 
of  freight  cars  was  drawn    uj)   in    the   station,  to  avoid   the 
trouble  of  going  around   which,  1  was  about  to  pass  between, 
but  was  stopped  by  the  guard.     This  caused  me  to  mention  for 
their  doubting  admiration   another  precious  privilege  of  the 
freeman   in  America,   equally  incomprehensible,  viz :    that  of 
getting  5'oursclf  killed,  whenever  you  feel  in  the  humor,  with- 
out the  hindrance  of  officious  philanthroj)ists  in  jtolice  uniform. 
As  the  train  a])proachcd,  we  were  driven  up  on  a  car  and 
took  our  place  in  line.     Ocaiia,  the  avenues  of  Aranjuez,  !Mad- 


340  SPAIN    ANP   THE    SPANIARDS. 

rilojos  wliirlcd  In'  in  (ho  dark,  and  aliout  eleven  p.  M.  the  li<^htR 
of"  Lu  C'orte"  ai»i)eared  in  the  tlistance.  In  a  lialt'hour  more  I 
was  seated  in  my  former  apartment,  welcome,  although  with- 
out the  loaf  of  Seville  hread,  which  my  hostess  had  requested 
me  to  bring,  in  order  that  she  might  win  lier  bet  with  a  Mad- 
rilofia  as  to  its  superior  <iu:i]ity. 


Chapter  XIX. 
M  A  D  E  I  D      AGAIN. 

Second    Impression — The    Fire — Spanisli    School    of    Painting — Apartado    of  the 
Bull;- — Procession  to  Atoeha — Ambassadorial  Quarrel — Escorial. 

Madrid  appeared  under  a  different  hue  by  comparison  with 
Andalusia.  The  temperature  had  lowered  considerably,  and 
the  nights  were  cold,  3-et  the  streets  had  a  glassy  look  about 
them,  in  sad  contrast  with  the  awning  shades  of  the  Calle  de 
las  Sierpes  at  Seville.  The  Prado  AA-as  now  deserted  at  night, 
as  the  air  Avas  too  sharp  for  CA'ening  Avalks,  and  the  afternoon 
promenades  had  begun.  But  hoAA'  tame  it  Avas  after  the  moon- 
light nights  on  the  Plaza  Isabel  and  the  banks  of  the  (Juadal- 
quiA'ir  I  and  the  Madrilenas,  handsome  as  the}'  had  seemed  to 
me  just  from  London  and  Paris,  Avere  not  to  be  mentioned  in 
the  same  day  Avith  the  Avarm-hearted,  graceful  Andalusiane. 
The  cit}'  began  to  AA'car,  hoAA'CA^er,  more  of  the  aspect  of  a  great 
capital.  Summer  absentees  A\-ere  returning  Avith  a  fresh  stock 
of  health  to  undergo  the  Avinter  labors  and  dissipations.  The 
diplomatic  corps  Avere  already  established  in  their  old  quarters, 
and  the  Court  was  soon  to  folloAA\  The  best  eA'idence,  hoAA-- 
ever,  of  a  renewal  of  life  Avas  the  throng  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol. 
The  snatches  of  couA-ersation  Avhich  saluted  your  ear  AA-erc 
upon  CA'cry  imaginable  topic.  The  Morocco  expedition,  the 
English  note,  the  A'isit  of  Marshal  Pelissier,  the  funds,  the 
loan,  the  circus,  d  grillo,  the  next  bull  fight,  mingled  up,  of 
course,  Avith  an  immense  amount  of  scandal  about  everybod}-, 
from  the  Queen  down,  or  up,  according  to  the  talker's  stand- 
point in  society.  Madrid  is  almost  the  only  place  in  Spain 
Avhere  there  is  any  GoA'ernment  in  the  European  acceptation  of 
the  term,  that  is,  any  organization  of  the  controlling  power, 
acting  as  a  regulating  and  compressing  influence.  Tlie  garri- 
son   is   quite   numerous,   and   there  is  a  respectable   political 


•542  SPAIN*    AM)    THE    SPANIARDS. 

police  foroc,  both  opon  and  secret.  Not  only  is  there  a  home 
I»olice.  but  the  French  Government  maintains  one  of  its  own 
to  keep  watch  upon  exiles  and  travelling  Frenchmen.  Per- 
haps it  has  an  unknown  similar  estalili.shment  in  other  capitals, 
hut  nothing  in  Afadrifl  can  he  ke^it  a  secret.  One  of  the  prin- 
ci]»al  spies  was  i)t)intcd  out  to  me.  lie  was  a  young-looking 
man — a  Frenchman-:— and  from  his  ai)i)carance  I  never  would 
have  thought  him  engaged  in  such  a  detesiahle  occupati(Mi. 
ITappy  is  the  nation  whoso  Government  has  no  political  police. 
The  morning  after  my  arrival  I  had  an  opjiortunity  of  judg- 
ing of  the  efficienc}'  of  the  municipal  organization,  liefore 
da}',  I  was  awakened  by  a  tremendous  noise  and  the  sound  of 
heav}'  blows,  and  going  to  the  window,  saw  the  watchman 
breaking  open  the  door  of  the  next  house.  Thinking  that 
some  obnoxious  person  was  concealed  within,  and  that  the 
police  were  in  pursuit,  I  retired  quietly  to  rest.  The  noise  still 
continued,  and  in  a  few  moments  I  felt  a  choking  sensation. 
My  American  experience  told  me  what  was  the  matterj  it  was 
a  fire,  a  thing  of  rare  occurrence  in  Elurope,  and  almost  un- 
known in  Spain.  I  dressed  with  speed,  seized  my  dagger, 
letter  of  credit,  passj)ort  and  watch.  With  these  one  can  con- 
front any  danger — without  them,  existence  is  worth  very  little 
abroad.  The  scene  from  my  balcony'  was  curious.  First,  the 
police  stationed  a  force  at  each  end  of  the  street,  to  prevt-nt 
circulation.  Then  the  water  carriers  commenced  making  their 
appearance,  each  widi  his  cask  of  water — this  being  a  condi- 
tion of  exercising  their  calling;  then  a  company  of  soldiers  to 
preserve  order.  In  the  meantime  cloutis  of  smoke  were  roll- 
ing up,  and  the  balcony  became  too  hot  to  hold  us.  The 
utmost  commotion  reigned  not  only  in  our  house  but  in  the 
whole  neighborhood.  I  am  sorry  to  say  (hat  my  two  fellow 
lodgers,  one  a  Spaniard,  the  other  an  Englishman,  had  packed 
uj)  at  the  first  alarm,  and  incontinently  left.  With  the  hajipy 
inditt'erence  of  a  man  who  has  little  to  lose,  and  cannot  save 
even  that,  I  remained  alone  to  console  the  terrified  women. 
An  American  can  scarcely  imagine  how  territied  people  do 
become  in  Europe  about  an  occurrence  which  is  a  matter  of 
•  •vory-day  life  to  us.  My  hostess  wrung  her  hands  dolorously, 
I'xclaiming,  "la  bomha!  la  homha!  Oh,  if  la  hquiha  would  only 
come:"  Thinks  I  to  myself,  what  the  plague  is  la  bomba,  sup- 
posing in  my  innocence  (for  I  had  never  witnessed  a  Spanish 


TTIK    FIRE.  343 

fire  before)  that  it  \vns  a  bomb,  with  some  stifliiijjc  gas  to  extin- 
guish the  flames.  They  were  all  too  busy  to  explain,  so  that  1 
awaited  with  some  curiosity  the  appearance  of  the  beneficent 
homba.  Present)}'  came  an  order  from  the  chief  of  police  to 
prepare  to  leave ;  so  everything  was  removed  from  my  n]iart- 
nicnt  in  front  to  the  back  part  of  the  house,  and  we  remained 
awaiting  the  end.  In  the  meantime  the  engines  had  arrived. 
This  was  la  homba,  and  small  affairs  they  Avere,  not  yet  grown 
to  the  full  estate  of  fire  enginehood,  and  rather  resembling  our 
garden  engines.  Nor  was  their  advent  marked  by  any  un- 
usual bustle;  no  shouting,  no  running  with  the  "  mashcen." 
DraAvn  up  in  line  of  battle,  the}'  were  deliberately  ^lled  by  the 
gallegos — smoking  cigarettes — and  as  deliberately  pumped. 
They  answered  the  purpose,  however,  and  I  went  to  the  head 
of  the  stairs  to  inform  the  trembling  assemblage  that  the  dan- 
ger was  passed.  While  standing  there  we  heard  a  noise  that 
startled  us  all — a  terrific  thumping  on  the  staircase,  accompa- 
nied with  the  jingling  of  metal.  It  sounded  as  though  the 
ancestral  house  ghost  was  taking  his  departure.  The  noise 
approached  rapidly,  and  soon  it  appeared  in  the  bodily  shape 
of  a  tall,  thin,  half-dressed  Pole,  with  an  immense  bundle  on 
his  back,  leaping  three  steps  at  a  time.  Seeing  us  standing  so 
quietly,  he  appeared  confused  and  stopped  short.  It  seems 
that  he  lodged  in  the  seventh  storj'  to  the  rear,  and  in  those 
sublimated  regions  the  alarm  had  penetrated  with  difficult}'. 
But  he  was  determined  to  make  up  in  speed  what  he  had  lost 
in  time;  so,  throwing  all  his  worldly  possessions  into  a  sheet, 
had  presented  himself  before  us  very  much  in  the  costume  in 
which  he  had  retired  to  sleep.  Of  course,  our  party  were  sur- 
prised at  his  being  so  alarmed,  and  rated  him  soundl}'  for  his 
want  of  pluck.  The  poor  Pole  attempted  to  defend  his  con- 
duct, but  was  no  match  for  his  opponents,  and  soon  sunk, 
crest-fallen  and  envious  of  our  superior  courage,  back  to  the 
heavenly  regions  whence  he  had  descended. 

The  crowd  below  had  increased  ;  the  Corregidor  and  the 
Governor  of  the  Province  were  present  in  uniform  with  dress 
swords — both  persons  of  high  rank.  It  would  have  horrified 
an  Englishman  or  an  Austrian  to  see  how  practical  an  equality 
reigned  between  them  and  even  the  water  carriers.  The  Cap- 
tain-General was  represented  by  a  staff  officer  on  horseback, 
who  seemed  anxious  to  do  something,  but  as  there  were  no 


344  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

ftiiiiting  damsels  to  be  carried  away  on  the  gallant  cli;ir:r<'i'.  I'is 
office  remained  a  siiu'eiire.  I  had  a  fair  (»])p(irtunity  of  seeing 
our  neighbors,  who  throngt-d  the  lialeonies  in  the  sparse  cos- 
tume of  six  o'clock,  A.  M.  They  were  doubtless  amiable,  very 
amiable  people;  more  than  that  it  would  be  hazaivloiis  to  as- 
sert. They  were  engaged  like  ourselves  in  conteinjtlating  the 
spectacle  below,  which  was  now  diversified  by  a  light — some 
astonislie<l  ])asser-by  having  received  the  contents  of  a  hose  in 
his  stomach,  and  testily  resented  that  want  of  respect  by  crack- 
ing the  CJallician  manager  of  it  over  the  head,  which  the  proud 
descendant  of  Pelayo  took  in  very  bad  part.  After  separating 
the  coml»atiyits,  all  hands  smiled  and  refreshed  themselves  with 
a  cigarette.  In  an  hour  more  the  street  was  wasluil.  and  ]»ri- 
meval  quiet  restored. 

M}"  first  visit  on  my  return  was  to  the  Museo  and  the  Acade- 
my' of  San  Fernando,  to  see  if  my  opinions  remained  the  same 
after  visiting  the  Murillos  at  Seville.  It  seemed  to  me  that  in 
the  highest  stjie  of  painting,  in  lofty  conception  and  sublime 
])urity  of  expression,  there  was  nothing  in  ^[adrid  to  ecpial  the 
lamous  San  Antonio,  or  the  Conception,  or  the  (Juardian  Angel 
which  form  the  boast  of  Seville;  l)iit  in  the  semi-i-ai'thly  sub- 
jects tliat  are  represented  in  the  thi'ee  Murillos  of  the  Academy, 
Madrid  ])ossesses  a  treasure  which  the  world  of  art  cannot  sur- 
pass, and  it  is  strange  that  the  lian(l-ln)oks  of  [lainling  dwell 
so  little  upon  them.  Indeed,  had  it  not  been  lor  the  robberies 
of  the  French  (Jenerals  and  their  ini])erial  master,  it  is  more 
than  jirobaMe  that  the  whole  Spanish  school — Murillo.  ^'^■las- 
(juez,  Rii»era  and  Cano  alike — would  have  been  considered  a 
mere  olfshoot,  with  little  general  merit  and  still  less  originali- 
ty. Whereas,  individualily  and  oi-iginality,  both  of  conception 
and  execution,  are  its  distinguishing  traits.  It  is  true  that 
most  of  their  j)ainters  repeat  themselves,  even  to  the  extent  of 
what  ma^'  l)e  called  mannerism;  but  this  springs  from  those 
very  traits  of  character  which  prevent  the  Sjianiard  from 
copying  foreigners  even  if  he  would.  Every  great  artist  has 
naturally  some  ideal  which  reapin-ars  in  his  different  works.  A 
statesman  or  a  soldier  has  a  few  fixed  principles,  which  must 
be  ap])lie(l  to  a  thousand  vai-ying  situations,  no  two  of  which 
are  alike.  The  ideal  of  artistic  beauty,  though  a  mere  jdian- 
tom  perhap.s,  in  truth  has  a  real  existence  in  the  conception  of 


SPANISH    SCHOOL    OF    PAINTING.  345 

each  great,  painter.  The  difficuUy  consists  in  the  attempt  to 
grasp  it,  to  withdraw  it  from  tlie  misty  regions  where  such 
conceptions  must  float,  and  transfer  it  visibly  to  canvass.  It  is 
probable  that  no  such  attempt  will  ever  bo  completely  success- 
ful, but  the  Conceptions  of  Murillo  seem  to  be  a  nearer  approach 
to  it  than  anything  else  which  we  have.  The  mere  style  may 
change.  This  is  an  accessory  of  execution.  The  highest  per- 
fection is  something  independent  of  such  aids.  Surely  no  one 
would  wish  to  see  the  Last  Judgment  of  Michael  Angclo  in  oil 
colors.  A  deficiency  in  these  minor  rcsjiects  has  blinded  many 
persons  to  the  great  excellencies  of  some  of  the  Spanish  paint- 
ers, of  which  Eibera  is  a  striking  example,  as  if  he  must  neces- 
sarily enter  the  procrustean  bed  with  Albano,  whose  subjects 
required  a  variety  and  exquisite  finish  that  would  have  been 
misplaced  and  injurious  to  the  other.  The  efiect  of  this  want 
of  variety  of  style  in  Spanish  artists  is  disagreeably  felt  Avhen 
many  pictures  of  the  same  person  are  collected  in  the  same 
room.  Even  the  gallerj'  of  JMurillos  at  Seville  makes  this  im- 
pression upon  you.  Inferior  artists  can  stand  the  test,  because 
they  paint  from  Avithout  and  not  from  Avithiu,  and  consequently 
vary  as  often  as  they  paint,  but  the  same  cannot  be  affirmed  of 
any  of  the  great  masters  except  Eafaelle.  The  collections  of 
Eubeus  in  Madrid  and  Paris,  leave  you  with  little  variety  of 
impression,  and  so  do  the  Titians,  and  I  doubt  not  the  same 
would  be  said  of  Michael  Angclo,  if  his  productions  were 
placed  in  a  row,  yet  he  was  the  grandest  genius  of  them  all.  I 
have  more  than  once  been  painfull}^  struck  with  this  in  the 
works  of  Guido.  A  single  Guido,  such  as  the  Annunciation  or 
the  Aurora,  is  beautiful.  A  dozen  Guidos  in  a  row,  as  they  are 
placed  at  Madrid,  are  simply  oppressive.  Place  a  Eibera  be- 
tween a  Titian  or  Rubens  and  one  of  Pafiiclle's  carl}-  Madon- 
nas, and  its  uni-ivalled  excellencies  as  well  as  its  defects,  would 
bo  visible  to  the  most  unskilled  lu-holder.  There  is,  moreover, 
very  little  universality  or  versatilif}'  of  talent  among  Span- 
iards; they  seem  to  devote  themselves  to  some  one  sulyect, 
whether  b}'  taste  or  accident.  Murillo  embraced  a  greater 
variety  than  any  other,  yet  his  virgins  and  holy  female  subjects 
generally  seemed  to  have  been  his  decided  favorites.  Velas- 
quez was  a  painter  of  living  men,  and  the  illustration  might  be 
continued    through    Eibera,  Zurbaran    and   the  whole   school. 


346  SPAIN    ANI»    TFIE    SPANIARDS. 

There  is  no  one  here  like  I?afaollo.  or  Titian,  or  Rnbons.  to  paint 
overythini;  in  the  heavens,  earth,  and  the  water  undt-r  tlio 
earth,  witli  oijual  faeility  and  felieity. 

To  chan«;e  the  snhjoct  from  paintinajs  tt)  hulls.  I  wont  one 
day  to  see  the  Apartudo  There  was  to  he  a  HL:;ht  tliat  after- 
noon, and  three  animals  of  the  breed  of  Hernandez,  and  three 
of  Bailuelos,  were  collected  in  the  corral  attached  to  the  Plaza. 
Galleries  are  built  around  the  corral,  so  that  we  could  look 
down  upon  the  operation,  which  consisted  in  enticiiii^  them 
separately  into  the  loril,  and  enclosing  them  in  apartments  ac- 
cording to  the  order  of  their  entry  into  the  ring.  The  behavior 
of  the  bulls  upon  these  occasions  is  a  fair  test  of  what  their 
conduct  will  be  in  the  fight.  Every  now  and  then  they  would 
rush  at  the  herdsmen,  who  escaped  nimbly  l>ohind  barriers 
erected  for  the  purpose,  while  the  bull  would  vainly  struggle  to 
tear  up  the  wall.  The  herdsmen  were  a  despcratel}*  wild-look- 
ing set,  and  one  wouhl  have  found  itdifticult  to  choose  between 
them  and  the  bulls.  I  very  naturally  reflected  ujion  the  dis" 
agreeable  predicament  we  would  be  in.  if  the  gallery  were  to 
break.  Some  of  the  historic  families  of  Spain  would  have  been 
put  in  mourning,  for  the  comjiany,  though  small,  was  very  se- 
lect, consisting  for  the  most  of  nobles  and  bull  fighters.  The 
animals  seemed  much  astonished  and  rather  depressed  when 
separated.  It  is  surprising  that  this  exhibition  should  bo  open 
to  the  public,  for  the  bulls  must  necessarily  be  somewhat  discon- 
certed at  fin<ling  themselves  exposed  to  the  general  gaze  of  so 
man}'  pei-sons  whom  they  could  not  reach.  They  were,  after 
much  scuffling,  all  duly  separated,  each  one  in  his  stall,  and  the 
fight  took  place  in  the  afternoon,  but  offered  no  jieculiar  fea- 
tures. 

J)uring  my  stay  in  Madritl  the  (^ueen,  who  had  returned 
from  La  Granja,  was  to  make  a  procession  to  the  Church  of  the 
Atocha,  so  a  friend  i)i'oeure<l  for  me  a  place  in  a  window  upon 
the  Calle  de  Alcala  through  which  she  Avas  to  pass.  As  the 
hour  approached,  carpets  and  variegated  cloths  were  hung  over 
the  balconies  in  honor  of  the  fete,  a  custom  originally  derived 
from  the  East,  though  known  also  to  the  Romans.  The  garri- 
son was  soon  under  arms,  a  double  line  of  sentries  bordei-ing 
the  street.  The  infantry  were  good-looking  men,  larger  than 
the  French  and  far  handsomer,  but  not  equal  in  average  size  to 
our  people.     In  style  of  marching  they  are  between  the  Eng- 


AMBASSADORIAL    QUARREL.  347 

lisli  aiul_  Frcncli,  without  the  accurate  drill  and  step  of  the 
former,  or  the  abandon  of  the  latter — I  think  a  happy  medium. 
The  cuirassiers  were  a  particularly  fine  bod}'  and  well  mounted. 
Royalty  was  not  punctual  upon  this  occasion,  and  we  were  kept 
some  time  in  waiting.  The  interval  was  not  wholly  lost  though, 
for  I  had  been  joined  by  two  .young  ladies  of  two  opposite 
styles  of  beautj' ;  the  one  blonde,  the  other  brunette,  with 
clear  complexion,  fine  forehead,  and  an  exquisite,  velvety  pair 
of  QjQs  that  sparkled  as  she  spoke.  Under  the  circumstances, 
her  Majostj^'s  speedy  coming  was  not  wished  for.  But  at 
length  the  bugles  up  the  Calle  Mayor  sounded  the  ]\rarcha 
Eeal,  and  the  escort  appeared  in  sight  crossing  the  Puerta  del 
Sol.  The  ceremonies  and  the  equipages  carried  one  back  to 
the  daj's  when  Spain  was  a  great  monai"chy,  and  her  proud 
boast  was  uttered  that  the  sun  never  sat  upon  her  dominions. 
The  pomp  was  the  same,  but  the  grandeur  had  departed.  A 
number  of  high  ofiicers  preceded  the  procession.  Thc}^  did  not 
impress  me  half  so  favorably  as  the  troops,  and  had  rather  the 
appearance  of  part  of  a  show  than  persons  for  real  service. 
Such  appearances,  however,  arc  very  deceptive.  Then  came 
antique  carriages  and  four,  and  still  more  antique  carriages  and 
six,  filled  with  the  Servidumbre,  maids  of  honor,  gentlemen  in 
waiting,  ministers,  etc.  Four  led  horses  had  a  peculiar  signi- 
ficance, I  forget  what.  Finally  appeared  their  Majesties.  The 
Queen  is  far  from  handsome;  her  reputation  for  heaut}*  does 
not  equal  that  for  virtue,  nor  is  she  at  all  graceful.  In  truth, 
though  Queen  of  Spain,  she  certainl}^  is  no  vSpaniard  in  ]>crson 
or  character, , and  the  contrast  between  her  procession  to  Atocha 
and  that  of  her  former  subject  Eugenia  to  a  To  Deum  at  Xotre 
Dame,  is  too  striking  to  be  agreeable.  The  king  consort  is  an 
uneas^'-looking,  insignificant  personage,  and,  from  his  appear- 
ance, would  much  rather  have  been  smoking  a  royal  pnro 
than  seated  by  his  helpmate.  But  grandeur  as  well  as  poverty 
makes  sti'ange  bedfellows.  The  procession  passed  on,  my  com- 
panions gave  me  a  graceful  inclination  of  their  fans  and  a 
Vaya  vm.  con  Dios,  and  we  severally  parted  to  our  homes. 

An  amusing  quarrel  took  place  at  the  Church,  as  I  was  told, 
next  day.  The 'diplomatic  corps  had  been  invited,  but  by  some 
oversight  no  places  had  been  reserved ;  every  apology  was 
made  and  other  places  were  offered,  but  the}'  insisted  on  re- 
maining outside  and  airing  their  wrath,  until  a  message  was 


o45>  bl'AlN    AM>    TllK    fcil'AMARDS. 

1jrou<jrht  from  the  Queen,  begging  them  to  take  the  seats  re- 
served for  the  Infantas,  with  manj'^  apologies,  wliich  they  at 
last  consented  to  accept.  As  those  gentlemen  were  jiersons 
skilled  in  ceremonies,  the  course  they  adopted  was  i)rol»al>ly 
right;  but,  according  to  a  common  man's  idea,  it  would  have 
beefi  much  more  dignified  to  go  quietl}'  home  and  receive  their 
satisfaction  in  writing,  instead  of  making  a  scene  at  the  door. 
The  more  belligerent  might  have  challenged  the  Minister  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  who  is  not  a  warlike  character,  and  thus  the 
question  might  have  been  peaceably  arranged.  Foreign  diplo- 
macy seems  to  consist  of  this  sort  of  thing,  coupknl  with  the 
back-stairs  intriguing,  characteristic  of  nations  who  suin  luler 
the  government  of  their  affairs  into  the  hands  of  a  minister, 
instead  of  deciding  upon  their  foreign  ])olicy  for  themselves. 

It  had  been  iiiy  intention  to  pa}'  a  visit  to  the  Escorial,  but 
the  queen's  household  had  engaged  the  diligence  for  some  time 
ahead,  so  that  there  would  have  been  some  trouble  in  getting 
there,  and  still  greater  in  getting  away.  As  the  place  ])resents 
but  the  one  attraction,  I  concluded,  therefore,  to  remain  con- 
tent with  the  impressions  of  a  former  visit.  I  had  seen  it  then 
in  the  winter,  when  the  surrounding  scenery  harmonized  Avell 
with  the  gloomy  idea  of  the  founder — an  idea  which  the  archi- 
tect has  embodied  with  singular  felicit}'.  The  Escorial  is  cer- 
tainly the  eighth  wonder  of  the  world.  It  makes  but  one 
imjjression  upon  a  visitor,  but  that  ini])ression  is  so  profound 
that  it  cannot  easily  be  shaken  off.  The  exterior,  the  church, 
the  Maus(jlc'um,  are  all  alike  grandiose  and  over})0\vering.  It 
seems  scarcely  possibk-  that  the  more  aiTangomtyit  of  s|)eech- 
less  stone  and  mortar  could  ]»i-o<luce  such  an  eti'ect,  or  that  the 
work  of  human  hands  ccndd  so  master  and  crush  the  sj)iri(. 
You  are  overwhelmed,  and  breathe,  on  issuing  from  beneath 
the  massive  portal,  as  though  a  frightful  load  had  been  taken 
off  your  soul.  What  are  the  Coliseum  and  iSl.  Peter's  com- 
pared with  this?  Among  the  thousand  descriptions,]  i)refer 
that  of  Mad.  Calderon,  as  conveying  more  vividly  and  truth- 
fully than  any  other  I  have  i*ead,  the  unaccountable  effect  it 
produces.  The  gridiron  shape  seems  absurd  on  papei-,  but  no 
one  would  discover  it  for  himself,  and  the  triumph  of  the  archi- 
tect is  thereby  rendered  so  much  the  more  complete. 

Having  failed  in  this  attemi^t,  I  took  a  seat  for  Burgos  direct. 


Chapter  XX. 
M  A  D  E I D   TO    B  U  E  G  0  S  . 

Departure — The  Country — Somo  Sierra — View  over  New  Castile — First  Impression 
of  Spain — Aranda — Lcrma — Burgos — Las  Huelgas? — Miraflores — Cardcna — The 
Cid. 

There  was  an  unusual  collection  at  the  office  of  the  diligence 
to  bid  farewell  to  their  various  acquaintances.  The  winter 
population  was  evidently  returning.  The  principal  thorough- 
fiires,  such  as  Calle  do  Alcala,  do  San  Geronymo,  and  others 
emptj'ing  into  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  were  thronged  with  well- 
dressed  crowds,  and  every  now  and  then  a  fur  tippet  gave 
evidence  of  the  change  in  the  temperature.  Madrid  was  be- 
coming again  the  centre  of  Spain.  The  hour  appointed  for 
starting  was  six  o'clock.  The  conductor  desired  to  start  a 
quarter  before  the  time,  as  all  were  present.  Expecting  a 
message  which  was  to  be  brought  me  at  the  bureau,  I  wished 
to  delay  till  the  last  moment.  The  conductor — a  Basque — said 
he  liked  to  be  punctual.  I  replied  that  punctuality  consisted 
in  starting  exactly  at  the  hour  indicated,  neither  before  nor 
after.  lie  would  not  admit  the  general  principle,  but  thought 
I  was  right  in  this  particular  case.  His  error  was  on  the  right 
side,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  travelling  arrangements  in  Spain, 
notwithstanding  the  reputation  which  the  Government  has 
acquired,  and  it  may  be  deservedly,  for  dilatoriness.  The 
message  I  had  been  expecting  soon  arrived,  and  at  five  minutes 
before  si.x,  amidst  the  usual  shouting  of  postilions,  the  barking 
of  dogs  and  the  gazing  of  idlers,  tlie  various  diligences  started. 
We  rattled  across  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  up  the  Calle  do  Fucn- 
carral,  and  salljMng  out  of  the  city  gate,  entered  the  desert 
which  separates  La  Corte  from  the  chain  of  the  Somo  Sierra. 
It  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general  rule  that  no  stranger  likes 
Madrid.      Its    hollow,   insincere   society,   its   unpatriotic   and 


350  SPAIN    AM>    THK    SPANIARDS. 

:ilisur<l  efforts  to  engraft  foreign  manners  and  foreign  modes  of 
thought  upon  the  stern  oldCastillian  stock,  the  vagahond  char- 
acter of  a  hirge  jiortion  of  its  popuhition,  and  the  ahsence  of 
all  memorials  of  the  i»ast,  combine  to  render  it  one  of  the  least 
agroeablo  and  attractive  cities  in  Spain,  though  as  a  great 
capital,  it  necessarily  offers  man}'  resources  for  aiding  the  time 
to  slip  by.  I  was  told  by  several  gentlemen  who  had  married 
in  Madrid  and  resided  there,  that  it  improved  ujion  acquaint- 
ance. I  asked  them  if  they  had  any  friends.  The  invariable 
answer  was  that  although  they  had  many  acquaintances,  they 
could  scarcely  advance  any — l)eyond  the  circle  of  their  marital 
connections — to  the  highei-  rank  of  friendship.  In  trutjj  a  very 
great  proportion  of  those  who  compose  society  are  attracted 
hither  by  the  Government,  and  an  utter  selfishness  is  the  rule 
of  their  lives.  Yet  there  are  exceptions;  and  on  issuing  from 
the  gate  I  did  experience  a  sort  of  regret,  or  ratlier  a  sympa- 
thetic feeling  with  a  city  where  I  had  sjicnt  some  pleasant 
moments.  The  scene  around  and  the  prospect  ahead  were 
calculated  to  awaken  such  a  sentiment.  To  the  west  Mas  the 
setting  sun  just  disappearing  beneath  the  horizon  ;  a  lurid, 
threatening  glare  attended  his  departure,  and  a  few  clouds 
gathered  above  as  if  to  do  bondage  to  the  expiring  king  of  day. 
iris  last  rays  glittered  uj)on  a  battalion  of  soldiers  who  were 
drilling  on  the  parade  ground  to  the  right,  tilling  the  air  with 
the  clash  of  weapons  and  the  sonorous  music  of  trumpets.  Far 
off  to  the  north-west  extended  the  lofty  Guadarama  mountain, 
already  indistinct  in  the  evening  shade.  All  else  was  one  vast, 
cheerless,  broken  jdain,  over  which  the  cold  wind  howled  with 
the  fierceness  of  a  winter's  blast.  It  was  well  calculated  to 
make  the  traveller  regret  his  well  nialli'il  room  and  sunny 
balcon}',  even  in  Madrid. 

The  road  near  the  city  was  tlii'ongcd  with  vehicK's  returning 
from  the  baths  and  luoiintaiiis.  l-'roni  time  to  time  a  coach  of 
greater  j)retension  bore  its  noble  occupant  along,  and  once  a 
coupe  with  fou'*  horses,  preceded  by  outriders  in  the  royal 
livery,  and  containing  two  vi-ry  lunvy  individuals  inside, 
whirled  by  us  in  clouds  of  dust.  Legions  of  donkeys  and 
mules  were  returning  from  the  cit}'  to  their  respective  villages, 
but  soon  those  disappeared,  and  we  disposed  ourselves  to  pass 
the  night  as  best  we  could.  The  other  corner  of  the  berliila 
was  occupied  by  a  stout  lady,  a  resident  of  Madrid,  who  was 


VIEW    OVER    CASTILE    FROM    SOMO    SIERRA.  351 

going  to  Bixj'onno  to  visit  a  relative  living  there.  She  was 
talkative  and  good  humored,  and  was  entitled  to  the  three  F's, 
for  though  she  might  not  have  been  strictly  styled  fair,  3'et  she 
was  as  near  it  as  most  persons  wlio  have  unwillingly^  attained 
the  other  two.  In  addition  to  her  many  agreeabilities,  she  had 
the  tangible  one  of  a  large  basket  most  bountifully  furnished,  of 
which  she  insisted  that  I  should  partake,  and  with  such  earn- 
estness that  1  ilurst  not  decline.  The  only  article  of  commis- 
sariat which  my  foresight  had  provided  me,  would  have  been 
miich  more  appropriate  in  America  or  Ireland  than  Spain, 
to  wit  :  a  flask  of  brandy.  I  offered  it  with  many  apologies, 
but  as  the  good  ladj"  had  never  tasted  any  before,  she  de- 
clined making  the  experience  now,  so  that  the  entertainment, 
80  far  as  I  was  concerned,  repeated  the  fable  of  the  stork  and 
the  fox. 

The  road  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  uninteresting  in  the 
extreme,  and  two  previous  journeys  having  rendered  me  fa- 
miliar with  its  weariness,  there  was  no  inducement  to  force 
nature  by  struggling  to  keep  awake.  Fuencarral,  Alcobendas, 
the  historical  and  exceedingly  ancient  city  of  Buitrago,  were 
passed  by  unconsciousl}'.  A  furious  storm,  fulfilling  the  prog- 
nostications of  sunset,  discharged  its  torrents  in  like  manner, 
witiiout  disturbing  our  slumbers,  which  continued  uninter- 
rupted until  daylight  broke  upon  the  summit  of  the  Sierra 
lianging  over  our  heads.  The  prospect  descending  this  moun- 
tain toward  Madrid  is  very  impressive  to  those  who  are  just 
entering  Spain  from  Bayonne.  It  is  one  of  those  boundless, 
immeasurable,  indefinite  and  apparently  infinite  views  which  1 
have  so  often  noticed  in  this  book  as  peculiar  to  Spain.  Far  as 
the  vision  can  reach  is  rolled  out  the  uneven,  rugged  plain  of 
Xew  Castile,  offering  no  resting  place  for  the  eye  save  a  few 
brown  villages  that  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the 
thirsty  earth  upon  which  they  stand.  The  pass  itself  is  al- 
most the  only  passage  from  Old  to  Xew  Castile,  and  defended 
by  a  handful  of  determined  men,  is  impregnable  against  any 
army  that  could  be  assembled,  unless  the  accuracy  of  fire-arms 
be  increased  even  beyond  their  present  range.  Yet  Napoleon 
with  a  S(piadron  of  lancers  put  to  flight  a  whole  divitsion,  pro- 
vided, so  far  as  the  externals  went,  with  all  the  requisites  of 
war.  The  Sj)anish  character  has  unju>tly  suffered  by  tliis  and 
similar  occurrences,  but  the   militia  of  America,  whoso  indi- 


352  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPAMAUDS. 

vidiial  bravery  none  would  question,  have  furnished  fully  as 
lamentable  instances  of  panic;  and  the  battles  of  New  Orleans 
and  Buena  Vista  offered  the  strange  spectacle  of  one  portion  of 
the  volunteers  contendin<jr  with  a  courage  and  valor  that  no 
regular  soldier  could  imitate,  while  on  the  same  ticld  another 
portion  threw  down  their  weapons  and  fled  without  a  shot. 

Descending  the  mountain,  we  changed  horses  at  a  hamlet 
where  I  had  most  unwillingly  been  detained  twenty-four  hours 
in  the  fall  of  1851  by  a  sudden  attack  of  indisposition.  At 
that  time  all  around  me  bore  the  inipi-ess  of  novelty  as  well  as 
grandeur.  Most  of  the  day  I  had  passed  on  the  summit  of  a 
little  elevation  which  afforded  an  uninterrujjted  pr(jspect  to- 
ward the  snow-covered  ranges  that  bound  the  horizon  to  the 
north  and  north-west.  Scarcely  a  tree  or  a  shrub  was  in  sight 
to  break  the  continuity  of  waste.  Long  trains  of  laden  mules 
would  wind  along  the  dusty  road  with  the  well  armed  arriero 
trolling  lustily  some  old  ballad,  perhaps  of  the  Cid  or  Count 
Fernan  (ionsalcz,  and  from  time  to  time  a  soldier  belonging  to 
the  Guardia  Civil  would  hurry  pastj  otherwise  no  living  thing 
disturbed  the  quiet  of  the  solitude.  The  sun  shone  brightly, 
and  the  deep  blue  sky  over  head  reminded  one  of  other  seasons, 
but  the  keen  wind  that  pierced  to  the  very  bones  dispelled  all 
illusions.  And,  thought  I  to  myself,  can  this  be  Spain  ?  Is 
this  the  romantic  land  of  poetry?  It  was  not  wliat  1  lia<l  anti- 
cipated. There  were  no  green  valleys,  no  warbling  songsters, 
no  gentle  zephj-rs,  j'ct  the  scene  had  a  sti-ange  fascination. 
And  now  this  very  loneliness,  (iiis  gi-andeur  of  isolation,  throw- 
ing the  burthen  of  life  upon  the  individual,  and  at  the  same 
time  developing  within  him  the  ([ualities  which  enalile  him  to 
bear  its  weight,  seemed  to  me  in(lisj)eiis;il)k'  to  tlie  idea  of  Cas- 
tillian  chivalry,  Avith  its  freedom  Iroiu  dependence  upon  Itodily 
cnjo3-ment8.  The  hardy  life  of  the  peasant  in  these  lofty 
regions  may  be  imagined  when  I  state  that  a  lire  was  lighted 
in  the  village  once  a  week  for  the  purpose  of  cooking  bread, 
and  that  during  the  rest  of  the  time  a  few  bushes  to  boil  choco- 
late was  the  utmost  that  could  be  allowed,  for  there  arc  no 
trees  in  Castile,  and  the  peasants  tear  up  even  those  that  the 
Government  plants  lest  they  should  harbor  birds.  Spanish 
bodies  have  immense  vitality  and  power  of  generating  heat, 
and  appear  to  be  quite  independent  of  artificial  warmth.  In 
the  morning  the  unoccupied  portion  of  the  population — which 


I 


ARANDA.  353 

seemed  to  include  the  Avliole,  except  on  tlie  arrival  of  a  dili- 
gence— were  seated  upon  benclies  on  the  western  side  of  the 
street,  enjoj'ing  the  genial  rays  of  tlie  morning  sun.  Wlien  I 
returned  in  the  afternoon,  the  village  presented  identically  the 
same  appearance,  except  that  the  progress  of  the  sun  hfid 
caused  a  corresponding  change  of  position;  they  had  moved 
over  to  the  eastern  side.  Being  without  occupation,  I  imitated 
the  example,  and  we  talked  awaj',  until,  about  sunset,  those  who 
had  gone  out  into  the  fields  to  labor  commenced  returning,  and 
a  finer  looking  race  of  men  I  never  beheld.  Of  the  medium 
height,  sinewy  in  their  persons,  of  grave  and  stately  demeanor, 
these  ragged  peasants  threw  their  thi-ead-bare  cloaks  over  their 
shoulders  and  walked  into  this  collection  of  mud  hovels  with 
an  air  of  dignified,  courteous  self-respect  which  many  a  sover- 
eign would  give  half  his  kingdom  to  possess.  I  must  do  Cas- 
tillejo  also  the  justice  to  sa}'  the  iSpains  could  not  furnish  more 
snowy  linen  or  delightful  chocolate  than  that  which  it  afforded 
me.  On  the  present  occasion  it  presented  a  more  cheerful 
aspect. 

The  journey  to  Burgos  was  without  varict}'.  A  cold,  bitter 
cold  wind;  extensive  and  even  grand  views  of  the  plains,  as 
the}''  are  called,  bounded  on  every  side  b}'  lofty  Sierras;  peas- 
ants wrapped  in  their  dun  brown  cloaks;  files  of  mules  and 
country  vehicles  of  all  sorts,  wei*e  its  features.  About  noon  we 
stopped  for  bi-eakfast  at  Aranda,  famous  in  the  olden  time  for 
the  glories  of  its  Bishopric,  and  in  modern  for  its  collection  of 
beggars.  The  purling  waters  of  the  ujiper  Duero  afford  mois- 
ture for  its  Alameda,  whose  green  was  refreshing  to  the  eyes 
after  the  morning  ride.  Aranda  is  the  locality  of  a  celebrated 
fair  which  was  not  long  over,  and  workmen  were  engaged  in 
removing  the  bull  ring  which  had  been  extemporized  for  the 
occasion.  The  breakfast  was  the  cause  of  bitter  complaints 
among  the  French  passengers  in  the  interior.  I  found  it  very 
palatal)le  after  the  fast  of  eighteen  hours,  and  had  the  full 
worth  of  mj'  three  pesetas  in  garlic  and  other  savor}-  condi- 
ments. The  vacant  place  in  the  berlifia  was  here  taken  by  an 
officer  of  high  raidc  in  the  army,  who  prepossessed  mc  in  his 
favor  b}-  distril)uting  a  handful  of  co])pcrs  to  the  wretched  beg- 
gars as  he  entered.  Jle  was  a  youngish  man,  from  the  ]>rovince 
of  Burgos,  near  the  border  of  Alava,  a  true  Castillian  in  every 
respect,  having  alike  the  virtues  and  the  defects  of  that  sterling 
24 


354  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SI'AMAUDS. 

race;  courteous,  formal  at  first.  uiUil  tlic  proper  relations  are 
established,  but  then  genial,  high  toned,  and.  I  doubt  not,  true 
as  the  ore  of  his  native  mountains;  of  course  somewhat  j)re- 
judiced,  and  not  very  enlarged  in  his  views,  because,  like  most 
of*liis  countrymen,  he  had  seen  hut  little  of  the  world.  In 
his  youth  he  bidonged  to  the  anti-Carlist  ]iarty,  which  is  a  still 
living  division  of  jtolitical  faction  along  the  hoi-dcrs  that  were 
desolated  by  the  civil  war.  and  the  battle  is  not  unfrequently 
renewed  even  at  present,  on  a  small  scale,  from  the  depth  of 
pure  conservative  feeling.  Good  Catholics  as  the  liberals  were, 
they  were  determined  to  cast  off  the  rule  of  the  clergy,  and  my 
companion  broke  forth  in  ])rivate  against  the  whole  jtarty,  upon 
recogni//mg,  in  our  fellow-passenger,  a  sister  of  one  of  its  bit- 
terest chiefs,  who  had  been  expiating  his  political  sins  in  e.xile 
at  Bayonne  for  many  a  year.  But  to  her  his  conduct  was 
marked  b}'  perfect  courtesy  of  demeanor.  While  we  were 
standing  a  little  distance  from  the  diligence,  he  asked  me,  in  a 
joking  wa}',  if  I  thought  her  handsome.  I  replied  that  no  one 
could  tell  to  what  he  would  finally  come,  but  at  present  six 
arrobas  (150  lbs.)  was  as  much  as  my  admiration  coukl  well 
embrace,  whereas  our  worthy  comj^anion  would  probably  come 
nearer  ten.  He  seemed  amused  at  this  way  of  measuring 
beauty,  and  thought  she  would  hardly  exceed  eight.  That 
evening,  while  waiting  in  the  bureau  of  diligence  at  Burgos, 
the  idea  took  me  of  being  weighed  upon  a  pair  of  scales  that 
were  hanging  idly  near  by.  A  few  minutes  afterward,  hear- 
ing myself  addressed,  I  turned,  and  imagine  my  horror  to  see 
her  balanced,  exclaiming  to  me  with  a  tiiumiiliant  air,  "  J/tVc 
vm.  C((bctlIero,  ocho  arrolxis,  menos  cinco  lihras"  (eight  arrobas, 
wanting  five  pounds).  The  oflicer  looked  uneasy-;  ]H'rliai)s  1 
did  too.  I  certainly  I'ell  so.  for  1  have  always  been  in  doulit 
whether  the  rascally  wind  had  not  hoiMu-  our  conversation  into 
the  window. 

In  the  due  course  of  events,  Ave  reached  the  City  of  Lerma, 
capital  of  the  great  countfy  and  dutch}-  of  that  title.  The 
famous  minister  of  Philip  III,  its  Duke,  erected  an  Igle- 
sia  Colegial  or  Collcgiata  and  a  Palace,  both  finished  in  the 
grandest  style  of  magnificence,  and  worth}'  of  the  inheritor  of 
80  great  a  name.  They  survive  in  a  half  ruined  state,  diverted 
from  their  original  purposes.  The  War  of  l!i(le]ien(lence  con- 
signed to  the  past  many  a  relic  of  ancient  pomp  and  grandeur, 


BURGOS.  355 

and  Lcnna,  in  its  green  little  Vcgii,  will  with  difficulty  recover 
its  former  importance.  As  something  had  broken  about  the 
axle  tree,  the  delay  gave  us  an  0})portunity  of  loolving  ai-ound 
the  town,  and  even  of  walking  on  the  Pa.sco  that  skirts  the 
trout-bearing  Avaters  of  the  Alanza.  A  few  leagues  more, 
driven  at  a  furious  rate,  brought  us  to  the  crest  of  a  Iiiil, 
Avhence  in  the  twilight,  we  saw  the  venerable  city  of  Burgos, 
its  ruined  castle,  and  the  filagree  sjiire  of  its  Cathedral,  pro- 
jecting against  the  tawny  mountain  that  bounded  tlie  valley 
on  the  north-west. 

Burgos  is  emphatically  the  heart  of  old  Castile,  and  here  is 
to  be  found  in  all  its  excellence,  extravagance,  if  you  will, 
those  characteristics  which,  in  the  opinion  of  the  world,  have 
constituted  the  Spanish  character.  Proud,  obstinate,  un3-ield- 
ing  though  they  be,  it  is  a  glorious  old  race,  somewhat  liehind 
the  world  at  present,  and  belonging  as  it  were  to  a  ])ast  age. 
Still  no  one  can  contemplate  the  genuine  old  Castillian  without 
admiration.  The  aspect  of  the  city  is  consonant  with  what 
one  might  be  led  to  expect,  severe,  bordering  upon  the  demi- 
grand  in  its  situation,  maintaining  in  unabated  magnificence  a 
few  relics  of  ancient  times,  but  insignificant  in  the  productions 
of  the  last  two  centuries.  The  old  castle  on  the  hill,  survives 
after  a  I'ashion,  and  gives  a  panoi-amic  view  over  the  city  and 
the  valley  of  the  Arlanzon,  with  its  spacious  promenades, 
pretty  enough  in  the  spring  or  early  summer.  But  the  histori- 
cal absorbs  every  other  species  of  interest.  Every  great  cit^' 
in  8j)ain  is  the  representative  of  some  epoch  and  some  civiliza- 
tion ;  Toledo  of  the  Gothic  monarchy,  and  subsecpiently  of  the 
Primacy  of  the  Church;  liCOn,  of  the  earlj-  struggles  for  exist- 
ence against  the  invaders  ;  Cordova,  of  the  pride  of  the  Moor- 
ish power;  Granada,  of  its  romance  and  fall;  statel}-  Seville, 
of  the  consolidation  of  the  Peninsula  into  a  glorious  unity  and 
its  expansion  over  the  world;  and  so  Burgos  is  the  rei)resenta- 
tive  of  old  Spain,  of  Spain  of  the  reconquest,  the  city  of  the 
Alonzos,  the  Ferdinands,  of  the  Cid,  as  it  behooved  the  crown 
of  Castile  to  be  placed  upon  its  head.  The  Charleses  and  the 
Philips,  these  Hapsburg  and  Bourbon  hybrids  have  no  place 
witliin  her  walls.  She  is  the  genuine,  utiadulterated  cmbodifi- 
cation  of  Castile.  Like  her  children,  she  is  virja  y  ranria^  with 
no  touch  of  Jewish  or  Moorish  blood  stagnating  in  her  veins. 
Her  recollections  are  of  the  chivalrous  times — of  the  lance  and 


356  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

the  linked  mail,  not  of  the  wig  and  the  rapier.  Several  private 
houses  of  a  date  anterior  to  the  sixteenth  century  yet  survive. 
The  site  of  the  C'id's  mansion  is  kept  vacant,  and  marked  by  a 
pillar,  that  of  Fernan  (Jonzalez  by  the  arch.  The  old  palace 
of  the  Yelascoes  is  in  a  ruinous  state  of  neglect,  but  exists. 
Time  has  hallowed  much,  destroyed  something,  rebuilt  nothing. 

The  irreat  architectural  attiacti<»n  of  Bunros  is  the  (Jothic 
Cathedral.  For  grandeur,  it  is  far  inferior  to  that  of  Seville, 
nor  can  it  rival  the  faiiy  grace  of  Loon,  but  in  all  the  peculiar 
beauties  of  the  Arabo-Gothic,  in  tlelicacy  of  delineation,  in 
appropriateness  of  ornament,  in  general  excellence,  there  is 
none  to  take  precedence.  It  is  more  amply  provided  with 
spires  and  pinnacles  than  even  most  Gothic  structures,  and 
seen  from  the  Castle  hill,  presents  quite  a  forest-like  ap]iear- 
anco.  The  interior  contains  everything.  Among  the  paint- 
ings of  various  degrees  of  excellence,  is  one  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  which  is  ascribed  to  Michael  Angelo,  or  as  some  suppose, 
the  result  of  the  joint  labors  of  himself  and  Sebastian  del 
Piombo.  Others  say  it  is  simitly  a  ])icture  of  the  Florentine 
School.  They  arc  all  agreed  about  its  merits.  Then  there  is 
the  famous  chest  of  the  ('id,  upon  the  pledge  of  which,  and  his 
honor,  he  succeeded  in  raising  the  Ilebraic  loan.  Then  there 
is  a  painfully  vivid  image  of  the  Crucifixion,  that  spares  none 
of  the  horiMitle  details  of  death.  The  individual  i)ortion8  of 
the  Imil'liiig  thai  call  I'oi'  adniiration  are  endless.  The  noble 
dome,  the  jjortals,  the  immense  chapel  of  the  great  Vclasco 
family,  hereditaiy  constables  of  Castile,  the  rejas,  the  tombs, 
would  fill  a  voliiine  of  themselves.  ]  have  but  one  adverse 
criticism  to  make,  which  is  that  being  built  of  white  stone, 
the  interior,  like  the  Cathedral  del  Pilar  in  Zaragoza,  is  too 
full  of  light.  The  traveller  feels  painfull}-  the  absence  of  that 
solemn,  sombre  grandeur  which  overwhelms  him  at  Seville. 

The  hotel  was  thronged  with  persons  on  their  return  from 
the  sea  baths  upon  the  Ba}'  of  Biscay,  which  arc  much  fre- 
quented. Opposite  to  me  at  the  table  d'hote,  was  a  family 
from  Madrid,  who  were  to  remain  the  next  day.  One  of 
its  members  has  retained  a  place  in  m^-  memory  as  the  last 
individual  I  met  of  the  unmistakable  t3])C  of  Spanish  beauty. 
To  say  this  much  is  ^o  say  nearly  everything.  A  gentleman  of 
Burgos,  a  charming  old  bachelor,  to  Avhom  I  had  a  card  of 
introduction,  fortunately  recognized  the  party,  by  my  vivid 


STA.    MARIA    DE    LAS    IIUELOAS.  357 

description,  as  acquaintances,  and  I  was  kindly-  placed  in  rela- 
tion with  them.  As  our  time  was  unoccupied,  it  was  agreed, 
much  to  ni}'  delight,  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  surrounding 
country  together.  A  four  seated  vehicle,  that  Charles  111 
would  have  recognized,  provided  with  an  abundant  apparatus 
of  bells,  and  fluttering  pieces  of  bunting,  was  brought  to  the 
door,  and  we  stai'ted  merrily  on  our  wa}'. 

On  the  loft  bank  of  tlie  Arlanzon — a  short  walk  from  the 
city — lay  the  celebrated  convent  of  Santa  Maria,  la  Ileal  do  las 
Iluelgas,  "Huelga"  signitying  "rest"  or  "recreation;"  the 
convent  being  situated  in  the  midst  of  former  gardens  and 
orchards.  It  was  commenced  b}-  Alonzo  VIII,  ccrtainl}-  before 
the  3'ear  1187; — why  is  not  well  known,  though  scarcely  in 
token  of  his  humiliation  for  the  defeat  of  Alarcos,  inasmuch  as 
that  battle  was  not  fought  till  1195.  Before  it  was  com^deted, 
the  great  victory  of  Las  Navas  gave  a  death  blow  to  the 
Moorish  power,  and  probably  ma}'  have  added  gratitude  to 
other  motives  for  tinishir.g  it  in  style  of  royal  magnifi- 
cence. It  is  an  immense  collection  of  different  -dates  and 
ditlferent  orders  of  architecture.  The  church  is  a  very  fine 
building,  and  has,  in  particular,  beautiful  aisles.  But  the  inter- 
est which  this  famous  convent  inspires,  like  man}'  other  tilings 
in  Old  Castile,  is  due  rather  to  its  past  glories  and  grandeur 
than  to  the  deca3ing  present,  stripped  of  its  cherished  privi- 
leges. No  convent  had  ever  been  possessed  of  such  author- 
ity. Its  lady  abbess  united  feudal  with  ecclesiastical  power. 
Twelve  affiliated  convents,  sixty-four  towns  and  villages,  be- 
sides other  lands,  acknowledged  her  as  their  feudal  or  ecclesi- 
astical superior,  with  all  seigneural  and  episcopal  rights,  among 
them  that  of  hearing  and  deciding  suits,  civil,  criminal  and 
ecclesiastical,  admitting  to  orders,  establishing  and  changing 
convents,  subject  to  no  bishop;  and,  in  truth,  a  sort  of  floating 
diocese  and  county.  A  century  afterward,  some  difficulties 
having  arisen  with  respect  to  the  royal  prerogative,  the  char- 
ters were  inspected,  and  all  the  privileges  therein  granted  were 
confirmed  anew  in  solemn  terms  by  the  king,  delivering  over 
all  suggcsters  to  the  contrary  to  the  societ}'  of  Judas.  No 
sovereign  had  ever  before  had  such  a  sulyect,  and  it  was  irrev- 
erently said,  that  if  his  Holiness  the  Pope  should  take  it  into 
his  head  to  get  married,  the  only  woman*  worthy  of  the  alli- 
ance would  bo  the  abbess  of  Las  Iluelgas.     A  position  of  such 


358  SPAIN    ANT)    TnK    SPANIARDS. 

power  could  onl}-  l)c  intrusted  to  noble  hands,  and  anionej  tho 
list  of  alibesses  is  found  all  the  i^ood  old  names  of  Castile — 
Guzman,  Laynez,  Velaseo,  ZuHiga,  Mendoza,  Enriquez,  Sando- 
val. ,  In  addition,  one  of  the  Infantas  enjoyed  the  nominal 
protectorate  under  the  style  of  Lady  Guardian.  They  said 
that  even  now  none  were  admitted  hut  ladies  of  nohle  blood. 
St.  Ferdinand  armed  himself  as  a  kniLclit  in  the  chajn-l  which 
is  called  by  his  name,  and  Alonzo  XI,  the  hero  of  Salado, 
together  with  Henry  of  Trastamara,  imitated  the  exami)le  of 
their  illustrious  ancestor.  In  the  Coro  and  Naves  arc  many 
tombs  of  the  founder  and  his  wife,  of  Alonzo  VII,  of  Sancho 
the  Wise,  and  of  various  other  personages  of  ro^'al  blood. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  river,  l)ut  further  to  the  north-east, 
was  the  Carthusian  monastery-  of  Miratlores,  or  La  Cartiija  as 
it  is  generally  called,  whose  name  is  evidence  of  its  charming 
situation.  Its  cloisters  and  some  of  the  ornaments  in  tho 
church  are  not  surpassed  by  any  other  existing  remains  of 
mediieval  art,  particularly  tho  choir  and  the  tomb  of  the  pa- 
rents of  Isabella  the  Catholic,  which  are  of  an  air}-  elegance 
that  defies  imitation.  The  Padre  Florez  narrates  that  when 
Philip  II  behcM  these  master-works,  he  exclaimed  to  the  by- 
standers, ''  We  have  done  nothing  at  tho  Escorial."  I  have 
already  remarked  how  strange  it  seems  to  me,  that  the  Car- 
thusians, whose  rule  was,  perhaps,  the  most  stringent  and  mor- 
tifying in  tho  Chui-ch,  should  have  always  selected  the  most 
beautiful  sites  for  their  monasteries.  As  nothing  can  surpass 
the  view  from  the  terrace  of  their  estalilislinu-iit  near  Granada 
in  the  gorgeous  l>eauties  of  the  tropics,  so  may  the  Miratlores 
disdain  comparison  in  its  prospect  down  the  flowery  vale  that 
extends  to  Burgos;  but  it  must  be  seen  at  tho  projier  season  of 
the  J'car,  and  on  this  visit  it  had  alreath'  liogun  to  put  on  tho 
sober  garb  of  winter. 

A  league  or  two  to  tho  east  brought  us  to  the  monastery  of 
San  Pedro  do  Cardena,  precious  in  the  e^-es  of  all  readers  of 
Spanish  ballads  as  having  been  the  burial  place  of  Ihiy  Diaz 
dc  liivar,  the  Cid — the  honor  of  Spain,  the  terror  of  infidels, 
the  delight  of  the  world.  The  old  hero  Avas  interred  here  with 
his  whole  family,  his  father  and  mother,  his  grandfather,  his 
wife,  his  daughters,  the  (Queens  of  Aragon  and  Navarre,  his 
gallant  cousin,  Alvar  Failez,  and  various  other  relatives.  His 
remains   have   had   little   rest,   and   like    those   of  Columbus 


CARDENA. THE    CID.  359 

pri}'  the  penalty  of  iinmortality  by  perpetual  transmigrations. 
Their  first  journey  after  death  was  from  Valencia  to  Burgos, 
thence  they  Avere  brought  here.  The  French,  among  the  few 
things  they  knew  about  Spain,  had  heard  of  the  ('id  and  Dona 
Jimenez  through  the  traged}'  of  Corneille.  With  the  apprecia- 
tion of  true  valor,  and  also  that  disposition  for  effect  which 
are  innate  in  the  nation,  they  removed  his  sepulchre  to  the 
Paseo  at  Burgos.  In  defence  of  an  action,  almost  sacrilege, 
they  assert  that  unless  this  had  been  done,  the  bones  of  tlie 
grim  warrior  would  have  inevitably  been  appropriated  b}'  the 
English  amateurs  in  Wellington's  army,  and  there  is  more 
truth  in  it  than  appears  at  first.  The  witty  feuilletonist e  and 
traveller,  Theophile  Gauticr,  says  that  General  Thiebault,  Avho 
effected  the  removal,  slept  with  the  bones  in  his  own  bed,  in 
order  by  .such  glorious  proximity  to  elevate  his  courage — a 
precaution,  the  author  adds,  of  which  he  stood  in  no  need. 
The  Spanish  indignantly  restored  them  after  the  expulsion  of 
their  invaders.  But  the  sequestration  of  the  convents,  which 
followed  the  accession  of  the  liberal  party  to  power,  caused  the 
remains  to  be  once  more  removed  to  the  city,  where  they  arc 
pi-eserved — if  in  veneration,  certainly  in  no  great  state.  The 
monaster}^  of  Cardena  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  S])ain; 
but  apart  from  its  historical  associations,  and  unless  in  such 
agreeable  company,  one  would  scarcely  have  made  it  a  second 
visit.  It  is  mournful  to  see  the  desolation  that  envelops  these 
relics  of  the  past.  No  reverend  monk  seeks  the  evidence  of 
truth  in  the  black  letter  tomes  of  their  libraries;  no  paintings 
smile  from  their  walls;  no  full  toned  choir  chaunts  the  echoing 
melody  through  their  vaults;  no  blooming  garden  yields  its 
perfume  to  the  longing  winds.  Their  glorj"  is  cFeparted.  Over- 
grown by  weeds  and  clambering  ivy,  they  await  in  silence  the 
sentence  of  destruction,  and  the  next  generation  of  travellers 
will  ])robal)ly  be  moralizing  over  their  ruins. 

The  shades  of  evening  were  gathering  as  we  re-entered  the 
Posada,  and  I,  witli  inanj"  regrets,  bade  fai*ewcll  to  mj'  com- 
panions. They  Avere  to  leave  for  the  South,  and  I  for  the  Xorth 
the  same  night. 


CllAI'TKR    XXI. 

H  U  II  C.  OS    TO    T  ir  E    F  H  O  X  T  F  E  P. . 

Journey  to  Pancorbo — Battle  of  Vitorin — French  Marslials — Vitoria — The  Basquos 
and  tbcir  Fucroa — The  Pyrenees — Dangers  of  an  Upset — Xatioual  Pride — Zuiuu- 
lacarrcgui — Appearance  of  the  People — San  Sebastian — Irun — The  Bidassoa — 
France. 

The  road  to  runcorbo  is  uninteresting  in  tlie  extreme,  so  far 
as  natural  beauty  is  concerned,  and  I  was  therefore  not  sorry  to 
sleep  through  it.  The  diligence  was  late  in  arriving,  and  slill 
later  in  starting,  so  that  I  composed  mj^self  ini  medial  fly  to  rest, 
feeling  renewed  cause  for  gratilication  in  tiic  ha})py  power 
Avhich  nature  had  bestowed  upon  me;  and  passed  in  unconscious 
slumber  over  the  Inirc  plains  and  lileak  hills  of  old  Castile, 
awaking  only  in  the  celebrated  detile  of  Pancorbo,  one  of  the 
most  striking  mountain  ])asses  conceivable — a  S])anish  Via 
Mala,  wheix'  a  cou]»le  of  thousand  men  could  protect  tiiis  por- 
tion of  Spain  against  any  possibility  ol  inxasicn  li'oni  the  iiorlli 
until  it  should  be  tui'iied.  Perpendicular  rocks,  live  huuiired 
feet  high,  of  fantastic  shape,  tower  above,  and  threaten  to  ci'ush 
the  ti-aveller,  almost  excluding  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Between 
them  flows  the  rivulet  Oroncillo,  aiul  the  road  contents  itself 
with  a  narrow  ledge  along  which  to  })ass.  In  a  little  chapel, 
hollowed  (mt  of  the  rock,  stands  an  altai-  to  oui-  Lady  ol  the 
Koad,  who  pi-eserved  us  through  its  dangers.  During  the  night 
the  clouds,  collected  upon  the  mountains,  had  condensed,  and 
its  wild  grandeurs  were  envelo])ed  in  mist  and  occasional  show- 
ers. The  sun  made  faint  etlbrts  to  struggle  out,  and  spanned 
the  valley  with  rainbows.  But  we  were  doomed  to  have  som- 
bre weatiier  until  we  reached  Vitoria.  The  apjjcarance  of  the 
countiy  beyond  Pancorbo  was  entirely  dirterent  from  what  I 
had  been  seeing  the  last  two  months.  It  j)re8ented  the  evi- 
dences of  a  reasonable  tem}»eralure  and  a  moist  climate,  and  in 


BATTLE    OF    VITORIA.  361 

consequence,  the  productions  Avere  entirol}'  those  of  the  tem- 
perate zone.  Orchards,  Indian  corn — of  a  most  insignificant 
size,  however,  compared  with  ours — and  even  green  fields,  at 
last  reappeared.  But  the  most  charming  sight  of  all  were  the 
woods,  of  which  the  Castiles  are  utterly  denuded.  The  aspect 
of  the  population,  too,  changed  in  many  respects  for  the  better. 
There  was  a  far  greater  appearance  of  well  being,  and  every 
one  had  the  air  of  a  sniall  jiroprietor,  who  has  some  interest  in 
the  country  bej'ond  his  daily  wages.  The  number  of  farm 
houses  increased,  each  surrounded  by  the  little  ornaments 
which  characterize  a  temperate  region  and  a  free  country'. 
Particularly  was  this  the  case  when  we  entered  the  Basque 
province  of  Alava.  The  Eliro  is  the  geographical  line  between 
it  and  Old  Castile,  and  Miranda,  the  frontier  post  of  the  Span- 
ish custom  house.  But  if  natural  distinctions  were  allowed, 
the  boundary  should  rather  be  marked  by  the  Pass  of  Pan- 
corbo. 

Before  reaching  Yitoria  we  passed  through  the  l)at(le  field 
of  the  same  name,  where  King  Joseph  and  Marshal  Jourdan, 
in  1813,  received  one  of  the  most  disgi-aceful  defeats  that 
ever  dishonored  a  General.  A  battle  it  can  scarcely  be  called, 
so  far  as  the  leaders  were  concerned,  though  the  loss  of  nearly 
ten  thousand  men  on  both  sides  proved  that  the  common  sol- 
diers had  stood  bravel}'.  The  plunder  was  enormous,  for 
Joseph  spent  the  last  moments  of  his  pretended  reign  in  de- 
sjioiling  the  people  whom  he  would  fain  call  his  children.  Jour- 
dan, like  his  brother  marshals,  had  but  one  thought  in  Spain, 
that  of  acquiring  riches  by  all  means,  whether  fair  or  foul.  So 
entirely  was  he  demoralized,  that  he  failed  to  defend  with 
courage  what  he  had  procured  bj*  downright  robbery.  The 
general  headquarters  had  more  the  air  of  an  aml)ulating  Itroth- 
el  than  a  centre  of  command.  The  British  held  on  to  all  the}' 
took,  stolen  as  they  knew  it  to  be,  proclaiming  it  lawful  ])lun- 
der,  though  the  process  of  reasoning  I  never  exactly  com- 
prehended, as  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  original  right  of  the 
SpaJiiards  revived  upon  the  recover}'  of  the  property  even  by 
their  allies.  No  age  of  the  world  has  ever  presented  to  history 
a  greater  average  of  military  talent  and  gallantry,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  more  complete  absence  of  every  trait  that  charac- 
terizes men  of  lofty  honor  and  tone  than  that  in  which  figured 
the  marshals  of  Napoleon.     They  were  for  the  most  part  chil- 


862  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SI'AMAUnS. 

dren,  not  of  the  revolution  of  1789  but  of  1793;  neither  did  they 
spring  from  the  poojilc,  but  from  the  drog.s  of  the  biwost  soci- 
ety, formiiii^  their  chanicters  in  a  school  which  ij^norcd  virtue 
and  futurity,  and  thought  only  of  the  sensual  enjoyment  of  the 
moment.  There  was  a  marked  contrast  between  the  common 
soldiers  and  officers  who  represented  the  people  on  the  one 
hand,  anil  on  the  other  the  hii^her  ranks  of  the  army,  growing 
up  under  the  baleful  shade  of  the  Committee  of  Safety  and  tl»e 
Directory.  The  former  were  far  superior  to  any  opponents 
they  met.  and  the  Knglishman  or  Austrian  was  almost  a  drunk- 
en savage  by  comparison ;  but  the  latter  were  low  indeed  in 
everything  but  their  profession.  Like  all  parvenus,  their  great 
ambition  was  to  be  rich,  as  the  acquisition  of  blood  was  impos- 
sible, and  to  this  object  they  sacriticcd  everything,  even  military 
duty,  as  Avas  painfullv  e.\emplificd  in  the  case  of  this  very  bat- 
tle of  Vitoria  by  Jourdan.  That  Napoleon  was  aware  of  it, 
and  regretted  these  excesses  in  a  military  point  of  view,  if  in 
no  other,  is  Mel!  known,  Imt  tliough  in  ap})earance  absolute, 
he  was  compelled,  like  all  other  civilized  despots,  to  satisfy 
public  opinion  around  him.  The  war  in  Spain  was  universally 
unpopular  with  the  army  ;  it  was  the  grave  of  reputations  that 
had  stood  the  test  of  lifty  battles,  and  many  a  high  renown  was 
shattered  against  the  walls  of  Zaragoza,  the  Guerilleros  of  An- 
dalusia and  the  Pyrenees  or  the  serried  ranks  of  Wellington. 
If  a  victory  were  gained,  the  ceaseless  efforts  of  the  Guerilleros 
deprived  it  of  all  profit,  and  the  Emperor's  eye  was  not  there 
to  reward  the  gallant  charge  or  the  desj)erato  resistance,  lie 
was  therefore  obliged  to  wink  at  the  extortion  and  avarice  of 
his  Marshals  by  way  of  reconciling  them  to  the  ])ainful  duty 
which  it  was  necessary  that  some  one  should  perform.  I  had 
once  thought  that  these  disgraceful  scenes  were  enacted  only 
in  Spain  ;  but  such  was  not  the  case.  The  rest  of  Euro])e  bore 
abundant  marks  of  their  ravages  when  away  from  the  master's 
eye.  One  of  the  worst  instances  of  the  conduct  of  this  school 
is  mentioned  by  General  do  Brack,  who  says  that  on  the  retreat 
from  Moscow,  he  saw  with  his  own  eyes  a  Genei-al  cause  the 
horses  to  be  taken  from  a  cannon  to  supply  the  place  of  those 
which  had  diawn  his  baggage  wagon,  laden  with  luxuries  and 
valuables  ]»lundered  from  the  burning  city.  Most  of  us  will 
agree  with  the  (Jencral  that  this  is  the  lowest  depth  of  military 
infamy.     Ney  and  Soult,  among  the  best  of  the  whole,  still 


VITORIA.  363 

could  not  ehauo-o  tlieir  natures.  Possessed  of  unques(ion[i1)lo 
militaiy  talent,  flie  one  a  mere  creature  of  impulse,  lietraj-ed 
first  Napoleon,  then  Louis  XVIII;  the  other  was  innatel}' 
unreliable,  and  without  the  sense  of  honor  or  dut}'.  So  well 
was  his  character  known,  that  before  the  battle  of  Lii^ny  the 
private  soldiers  made  bold  to  warn  the  Emperor  against  his 
treachery,  and  this  was  the  universal  estimation  in  Avhich  ho 
was  held.  General  Napier  has  kindly,  and,  wc  may  say,  gal- 
lantly concealed  his  defects  from  view — but  they  ai-e  too  noto- 
rious to  be  forgotten.  Though  I  have  a  much  higher  opinion 
at  present  of  the  French  soldiers  than  of  their  officers,  yet  men 
like  McMahon  or  St.  Jean  de  Angelj-  would  never  stoop  to  the 
commission  of  such  acts  as  disgraced  the  children  of  1703. 
The  British  officers  in  the  Peninsula,  however  inferior  to  their 
opponents  in  capacity,  Avere  generally  high-toned  men,  who 
Avould  scorn  to  steal  or  rol>.  Bon  sang  ne  menf  pas.  The  Duke 
of  AVellington  fortunatel}'  united  both  moral  and  mental  great-, 
ness,  and  the  consequence  was  inevitable.  Every  ^larshal, 
from  Soult  the  best,  to  Junot  the  poorest,  received  defeat  and 
dishonor  at  his  hands,  for  the  French  soldiers  then^selves 
ceased  to  feel  confidence  in  chiefs  who  were  absorbed  in  their 
desire  for  amassing  wealth. 

The  entrance  to  Vitoria,  passing  by  the  public  walks,  is  very 
pretty.  The  Alameda  and  the  Florida  arc  scarcely  surpassed, 
in  Spain  ;  and  the  latter,  with  its  flowers  and  healthy  grass,  and 
children  running  about  in  its  alleys,  possesses  a  new  charm 
after  the  solemn  stateliness  of  the  rest  of  Spain.  The  ton-n 
itself  is  divided  into  two  portions,  the  new  and  the  old.  The 
new,  glorj'ing  in  its  Avide,  clean  streets  and  lofty  houses,  orna- 
mented with  balconied  fronts,  was  a  fair  example  of  progress. 
There  are  churches  and  things  to  be  shown,  but  the  view  from 
the  tower  of  Sta.  Maria  over  the  plain,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  the  hillock  that  forms  the  site  of  the  old  city,  is  best  worth 
the  trouble.  It  affords  a  fine  prospect  over  a  well  cultivated 
country,  containing,  it  is  said,  more  than  one  hundred  villages 
and  hamlets,  scattered  over  tiie  green  expanse,  and  bounded  in 
the  distance  by  the  Pj-renean  s])urs  which  separate  it  from  the 
neighl)oring  provinces  of  Guipuzcoa,  Burgos  and  Santander. 
The  population  is  lively,  much  given  to  dancing  and  playing  all 
sorts  of  athletic  games  in  the  Alameda,  which  is  crowded  on 
a   Sunday  afternoon   with  as   animated  a  coUoction  of  men, 


3G4  SPAIN    AN1»    THK    SI'AMAUDS. 

wonuMi  and  children  as  tlio  world  can  show.  I  speak  this  from 
the  expcriLMico  of  a  previous  visit ;  for,  upon  tlie  present  oeca- 
sion,  our  dehi}'  was  eontined  to  an  hour  for  breakfast,  the 
greater  part  of  which  I  spent  upon  the  Ph\za.  a  tine  square, 
with  arcades.  I  remember  the  phice  well,  as  having  offered 
to  me  the  first  sight  of  a  mantilhi  worn  in  actual  life.  In 
leaving  Vitoria  for  Burgos  our  postilion  had  also  sjiortod  a 
calailes  hat,  both  of  which  arc  properly  2)arts  of  the  Andalusian 
costume,  and  seldom  seen  in  the  north.  The  costume  of  the 
JJasques  and  of  all  the  north-west  provinces  is  by  no  means  so 
gay  as  that  of  the  rest  of  Spain.  The  damp  weather  would  of 
itself  be  enough  to  impose  a  more  sober  gai-b.  The  various 
fancy  head  drosses  are  replaced  by  a  flat  woollen  cap,  the  bouina, 
such  as  is  in  favorite  use  on  our  plantations,  being  a  kind  of 
hybrid  between  a  Scotch  and  a  sailor's,  and  the  women  content 
themselves  with  the  trcnsa,  or  plaited  hair  hanging  down  be- 
hind. The  chocolate  at  the  Fonda  was  another  evidence  that 
we  had  left  Sj)ain  ]>roper ;  for  it  was  cidro  inaij  claro,  that  is  to 
sa}',  thin,  as  is  the  fashion  in  France,  and  to  me,  just  fren\ 
Seville,  almost  without  taste  or  substance. 

The  Basques  arc  an  enduring  example  of  the  length  of  time 
Avhich  a  ])0oi)le  may  retain  their  characteristic  ])i'euliarities. 
Small  in  number,  and  inhabiting  a  country  very  limited  in 
extent,  they  have  never  been  thoroughly  subdued.  Celts,  Ro- 
mans, Moors,  Spaniards,  French,  have  met  them,  with  but  little 
reason  to  be  prou<l  of  the  encounter.  For  the  maintenance  of 
their  cherished  liberties  (fueros)  they  have  shrunk  from  no 
sacrifice.  AVhen  the  privilege  of  trading  with  America  was  an 
inestimable  boon,  they  refused  to  accept  it  at  the  price  of  the 
surrender  of  these  fueros,  though  among  the  best  seamen  in 
Spain,  and  producing  the  very  articles  most  needed  for  that 
trade.  'Y\\q  "  fueros"  consisted  in  the  right  of  self-government 
and  freedom  from  the  c<;nscri)ition,  the  customs,  the  excise  on 
stamped  pajjcr  and  tobacco,  and  from  individual  taxation.  In 
war  they  were  to  rise  en  masse,  and  their  i'air  proportion  to  the 
support  of  the  central  Clovernment  was  to  be  levied  by  their 
own  assemblies.  The  King  of  Spain  was  Lord  of  Biscay,  and 
as  such  tlieir  leader.  The  oak  of  Guernica,  under  wliicli  the 
assemblies  were  held,  is  the  symbol  of  their  freetlom,  and  is 
engraven  on  the  heart  of  every  Basque.  This  portion  of  the 
Peninsula  used  to  be  treated  as  Tyi'ol,  in  the  Austrian  Empire. 


THE    TYRENEES.  365 

But  its  extraordinaiy  exemptions  are  quite  against  tlie  spirit  of 
modern  nionarcli}'.  Any  premature  attempt,  howevei*,  to  in- 
corporate it  definitely  witli  Spain  must  be  followed  by  furious 
couvulsions.  They  show  the  advantage  of  free  government. 
Robbers  and  office  seekers  are  compai'atively  unknown.  A 
charming  simplicity  reigns  in  their  life.  The  men  are  honest 
and  industrious,  the  women  virtuous  and  loyal;  and,  though 
they  do  not  arouse  j^our  ontliusiasm  or  touch  your  heart  as  the 
Andalusians,  you  feel  they  are  fully  entitled  to^'our  admiration 
and  respect. 

Soon  after  leaving  Yitoria,  we  commenced  ascending  the 
Sierra  of  Elgu,  for  which  it  was  necessary  to  hitch  on  three 
5'oke  of  oxen,  two  under  the  charge  of  boys,  and  one  conducted 
by  a  brisk,  skinny  old  Avoman  —  all  of  Avhom  worked  with  a 
hearty  good  will.  The  oxen  were  not  large,  but  appeared  well 
trained  and  intelligent,  and  their  treatment  was  humane,  which, 
in  my  experience,  is  always  evidence  of  an  enlightened  system 
of  agricultui-e.  On  the  other  side  of  the  ridge  is  the  province 
of  Guipuzcoa,  Ij'ing  to  the  north  of  the  great  P3'renean  chain, 
or,  rather,  in  the  midst  of  it,  and  emptying  its  waters  into  the 
Bay  of  Bisca}'.  The  Devu  rises  at  the  foot  of  the  pass,  and 
rivals  the  streams  of  Switzerland  in  the  purity  of  its  waters. 
On  both  sides  of  the  Sierra  the  scenery  is  entirely  pastoral. 
The  vast  prospect-views  of  the  Castiles  and  the  grand  inspiring 
solitudes  of  the  Andalusian  mountains  j-ield  to  a  country  of 
unsurpassed  beauty,  in  the  style  of  the  Pyrenees,  whose  pre- 
cipitous sides  are  covered  with  the  green  of  Ireland.  Such 
scenery  is  certainly  very  pleasing;  but  your  thoughts  never 
rise  to  the  height  of  sublimity,  and  3'our  feelings  are  as  cir- 
cumscribed as  your  vision.  Be  that  as  it  may,  there  are  few 
prettier  valley's  than  that  of  the  Deva.  The  Celtic  scholars  say 
that  Cantabria — Centiberia — the  ancient  name  for  this  portion 
of  Spain,  is  to  be  derived  from  Kent-AI>cr,  the  "corner  of 
Avater,"  just  as  Celtiberia  —  Kelt-aber — the  Celts  of  river,  and 
Havre,  or  Aber,  and  Aber-dcen,  and  various  other  places  in 
Europe  derive  their  names,  Kent  being  the  corner,  as  in  the 
County  of  Kent  in  England,  and  Abcro-Aln*o-p]bro,  being 
the  river  itself,  all  of  which  would  seem  to  be  in  direct  conflict 
with  Humboldt's  theory  that  the  Basques  were  the  original 
Iberians;  for,  if  so,  the}' would  never  have  allowed  a  foreign 
name  to  be  given  exclusively  to  the  country  of  which  they  only 


3'36  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

were  in  possession.  Tlio  aiipropriatcness  of  tlio  ikhuo  would 
seem  to  justily  the  Celtic  derivation  ;  for,  while  the  rest  of 
Spain  has  always  sulTered  from  want  of  moisture,  and  often* 
times  been  desolated  1)}'  dron<i;hts,  there  is  a  never-failin-:;  siip- 
Yi\y  of  rain  in  all  the  north-west  corner,  and  the  purest  trout 
streams  are  in  superabundance.  This  continuation  of  the  Pyr- 
enees, ]»arallel  to  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  seems  naturally  to  attract 
the  clouds,  l»ut  all  on  the  northern  si<le.  The  15asques  have 
generally  much  faii-er  coinjilexioiis  than  is  usual  in  the  other 
portions  of  tlie  IV'iiiiisuhi.  a  circumstance  which  some  have 
attributed  to  the  influence  of  ^'orman  blood,  whereas,  ft)llow- 
ing  the  universal  law  of  nature,  it  is  caused  sim])ly  by  the 
moisture  of  the  climate.  Remove  them  to  La  Maiuha  for  a 
ft'W  <^eiieratioiis,  and  all  distinijuishini^  marks  of  complexion 
Avould  soon  disap])ear.  Lieutenant  (Jibbon,  in  his  explorini^ 
expedition  over  the  Andes,  notices  the  same  fact  that  on  the 
west  of  the  Cordilleras,  where  it  seldom  rains  and  the  sky  is 
unclouded,  the  ladies  resemble  the  Spanish  in  comi)lexion ; 
whereas,  on  the  east,  amid  the  continued  showers  and  dampness 
brought  over  by  the  south-eastern  trade  winds,  they  are  as  fair 
as  in  German}'. 

Our  company  had  been  reduced  to  a  good  lady  of  some  fifty 
years  "y  j)ico"  in  the  bcrliHa,  who  appeared  the  soul  of  kind- 
ness, and  another  lad}-  and  a  French  Commis  in  the  interior. 
I'arl  of  our  way  lay  upon  (juite  a  steep  precipice  overhanging 
the  river  without  a  parajiet.  As  luck  wt)uld  have  it,  the  pos- 
tilion's horse  was  a  miserable-tempered  beast,  which  took  a 
fancy  of  stopj)ing  short  at  occasional  intervals  and  kic-king  the 
rest  of  the  animals  toward  the  river.  Kvery  such  pi'i-lormance 
produced  a  volley  of  oaths  in  lln-ee  languages  from  the  ban- 
quette, and  considerable  commotion  in  the  interior,  with  the 
protrusion  of  an  alarmed  })hysiognonn'  at  each  Avindow.  My 
companion's  e([uaniinity  began  to  give  wa}'  at  these  signs  of 
fear,  and  though  she  had  instructed  me  in  the  morning  ujjon 
the  subject  of  rainbows,  informing  me  gravely  that  they  sucked 
u])  the  water,  liei-  ])liilosopliy  failed  to  give  her  assurance  upon 
the  edge  of  a  preeijnce.  In  response  to  her  inquiries  as  to  the 
danger  of  an  upset,  1  gave  her  the  Turkish  consolation  that 
we  could  die  but  once,  and  that  it  was  the  mayoral's  business, 
not  oui-s,  to  guard  against  accidents.  Half  convinced,  she 
recovered  the  natural  courage  of  a  Spanish  woman.     Not  so, 


BASQUE    NATIONAL    TRIDE.  367 

however,  in  the  interior ;  once  wo  approached  nearer  than 
usual  to  the  edge,  and  suddenly  open  flew  the  door,  outburst 
the  hidy,  followed  by  the  Commis,  sacre-ing  most  fearfully,  and 
vowing  that  he  was  not  in  the  least  frightened  for  himself,  but 
only  for  "cette  pauvre  dame."  With  difficulty  the}'- were  per- 
suaded to  enter  again,  the  Frenchman  swearing  that  at  the 
next  station  he  would  give  the  postilion  a  bit  of  his  mind, 
which  he  did  in  desperately  bad  Spanish,  opening  the  attack, 
however,  very  flnely,  by  calling  hini  a  p-n-t-rro.  But  was  there 
ever  such  a  Tartar!  The  jiostilion,  as  soon  as  he  compre- 
hended the  object  of  his  assailant,  gave  back  as  good  as  he  got, 
repaying  his  debt  with  such  interest  that  the  capital  seemed 
to  double  with  every  ten  words.  Fortunately,  the  road-bed 
was  not  shaken,  and  we  continued  the  journey  in  safety. 

It  was  Sunday,  and  the  road  was  thronged  with  persons  well 
dressed  and  of  pleasant  countenance.  Numerous  solidly-built 
villages,  with  sounding  names — Castanares,  Escoriaza,  Arech- 
avaleta,  Mondragon,  were  scattered  along  the  valley.  At  Ver- 
gara,  celebrated  for  the  Convention  which  put  an  end  to  the 
civil  Avar  and  procured  for  Espartero  the  title  of  Duke  de  la 
Victoria,  we  left  the  Deva,  and,  appealing  again  to  oxen,  crossed 
the  ridge  which  separates  the  valle}-  from  that  of  the  Ureta. 
On  my  first  entry  into  Spain  in  1851,  the  only  other  passenger 
%vas  a  political  exile,  an  old  Carlist  and  a  thorough  Biscayen, 
■\vho  was  returning  after  a  long  absence,  his  heart  filled  .with 
the  glories  of  his  native  land,  upon  which  he  dwelt  with  much 
em])liasis,  pointing  out  the  various  tilings  worthy  of  admira- 
tion. While  ascending  this  ridge  we  had  stopped  at  a  farm-house 
to  get  a  glass  of  milk,  which  Avas  really  very  fine  and  worthy 
of  all  praise;  but,  in  the  midst  of  his  eulogy  upon  Ba.sque 
milk  and  liutter  in  general,  nn-  attention  was  unfortunatcl}' 
attracted  by  a  wooden  plough,  a  sort  of  stick,  the  jirccise 
counterpart  of  the  one  represented  in  the  school  ])icture  liis- 
tory  as  held  bj'  Cincinnatus.  lie  was  a  little  confounded  when 
he  caught  sight  of  this  implement,  but  soon  recovei'ing,  waved 
his  hand  majcsticall}'  toward  the  obnoxious  object,  exclaiming 
"  the  classic  plough  !"  I  was  puzzled  at  first  to  know  whether 
he  was  serious  or  jesting,  but  never  was  a  man  more  in  earn- 
est. This  was  only  patriotism,  a  very  good  quality  in  itself, 
carried  to  an  exaggeration,  for  lie  Avas  not  only  polite  but  even 
kind,  considering  that  1  was  a  3'ouug  stranger,  not  very  famil- 


368  SPAIN  AND  THE  SPANIARDS. 

iar  either  with  the  laniruago  or  the  peojile,  and,  at  his  home  in 
Vitoria,  he  afforded  me  opportunities  of  seeing  tlie  working 
of  things,  which  a  formal  letter  of  introduction  Mould  scarcely 
have  ijrocured. 

At  Villa-real  wc  dined  or  lunched  upon  a  superh  dish  of  trout, 
just  caught  before  the  village  inn  and  scarcely  dead.  How 
many  an  old  epicure  would  have  made  the  journey  expressly 
for  that  enjoyment  !  Appealing  once  more  to  our  oxen,  wo 
crossed  into  the  valley  of  the  Oria,  passing  by  the  village  of 
Ormaiztcgui,  where  Zuniahuarregui,  the  Carlist  General,  was 
born.  This  remarkable  man  is  little  known  in  America,  and 
as  he  supjiorted  an  unsuccessful  cause,  his  reputation  in  Europe 
is  waning.  Init  there  were  few  greater  liorn  in  the  eighteenth 
century.  A  larger  field  or  more  romantic  times  only  were 
recpiisite  to  make  him  a  hero  in  the  history  of  the  Avorhl.  An 
officer  of  the  arm}-  at  the  death  of  Ferdinand,  he  espoused  the 
cause  of  Don  Carlos  and  was  its  main  support.  Taking  his  sta- 
tion in  the  Basque  provinces  and  gathering  up  a  handful  of 
peasants,  he  cast  cannon,  armed  his  troops  from  the  spoils  of 
his  enemies,  and  subjected  every  army  that  approached  to  igno- 
minious defeat.  The  laurels  of  Mina  himself,  the  invincible 
Mina,  wilted  in  this  contest.  But  the  hand  of  resistless  fate 
was  interposed  to  arrest  his  progress,  and  when  he  was  prepar- 
in"-  to  march  upon  Madrid  a  stray  l>all  at  the  siege  of  Bilbao 
relieved  them  from  the  unconquerable  foe.  Had  he  been  dis- 
posed, like  most  leaders  of  civil  war,  to  accept  a  compromise, 
lie  would  have  received  dukedoms  and  countships  Mithout 
number;  yet  the  chieftain  who  wielded,  one  may  alnu^st  say 
the  destiny  of  his  country,  left  scarcely  enough  to  inter  him. 
This  is  the  stuff  of  which  true  heroes  are  made.  The  higli  road 
from  Vitoria  to  Ernani,  near  San  Sebastian,  jxisses  through  a 
country  every  foot  of  which  was  contested,  not  once  only  but 
frequently.  One  of  Zuniahu  arregui's  greatest  victories  was 
just  here  about  his  birthplace,  ly  which  he  foiled  the  well  laid 
iilans  of  four  times  his  lunnber,  led  ly  the  best  of  the  Chris- 
tianist  <aMierals,  to  envelo])  liim  in  a  ti-ap.  After  his  death  the 
(^arlist  army  continued  to  ie>i>t  with  like  success.  Even  the 
British  legion  of  auxiliaries,  commanded  by  General  Evan.s, 
which  were  to  sweep  them  off  the  face  of  the  earth,  met 
nothing  but  humiliation.  At  Ernani  it  made  a  "reconnaissance 
poussee  unpen  trop  loin"  and  was  utterly  defeated.    Several  other 


APPEARANCK    OF    THK    PEOPLE.  369 

''  reconnaissances"  were  niadc  with  tlic  like  result.  Tlie  sur- 
prising resistance  made  by  the  J^asqiies  in  their  mountain  fast- 
ne.sses  against  tlie  united  opposition  of  Spain,  France  and 
England,  finds  its  onl}^  parallel  in  the  exploits  of  Marian  among 
the  SAvamps  of  our  own  country.  Between  the  two  heroes  there 
was  a  striking  resemblance  of  character.  Both  Avore  upon  the 
highest  tone  of  honor.  Chivalrous,  unselfish,  indifferent  to  the 
charms  of  wealth  or  luxury,  they  moved  with  a  single  purpose 
of  patriotism.  Appearing  u])<)u  the  theatre  of  action  in  the 
midst  of  prostration  and  despondency  they  restored  confidence, 
created  armies,  and  with  naked,  starving  soldiers  gained  victo- 
ries over  troops  who  enjoyed  every  advantage  that  money 
could  procure.  Whether  Marion  would  have  displayed  also 
the  talents  of  a  (reneral  is  not  known,  as  his  force  was  always 
small.  Zumalacarregui  was  more  fortunate  in  opportunity, 
but  both  will  fill  an  enviable  place  in  histor}-,  and  in  their  deeds 
will  offer  fit  subjects  for  the  Muse  of  succeeding  generations. 

The  sk}'  had  now  cleared,  and  the  whole  population  were  out 
of  doors  amusing  themselves.  The  men  gathered  at  the  fives 
court,  which  appears  to  be  a  universal  amusement  here,  as  it 
iised  to  be  in  the  Carolinas;  the  elderly  females  seated  around 
little  tables  playing  cai-ds.  I  tried,  but  without  success,  to 
make  out  the  game.  The  sin  was  doubtless  venial  as  the 
stakes  were  decidedl}'  low,  seldom  exceeding  three  coppers. 
An  abundant  fund  of  good  humor  seemed  to  be  at  the  di.sposal 
of  the  players.  The  valley  of  the  Oria  is  densely  populated, 
and  contains  a  very  considerable  number  of  manufiictories  and 
forges,  the  iron  being  plentiful  and  good.  These  mountains 
abound  in  it,  and  that  of  Somorostro  is,  I  believe,  the  most 
malleable  in  the  world.  The  country  is  distinguished  through- 
out by  marks  of  prosperity  and  content.  Tolosa,  its  ca])ital, 
is  a  beautiful  town,  beautifully  situate,  and  is  becoming  an 
excursion  city  for  fishing  parties  from  the  watering  places 
around  the  Bay  of  liisca}'.  Several  fat  Frenchmen  were  walk- 
ing about,  looking  exceedingly  foreign  and  un-at-home. 

After  leaving  Tolosa,  we  enjoj-ed  the  jdeasure  of  hearing  a 
quarrel  in  the  JJasque  tongue,  the  veritable  Fuskara,  between 
our  niaj'oral  and  some  lazy  fellows  who  had  been  swinging 
behind  the  diligence.  Of  all  the  incompreliensible  sounds  that 
ever  issued  from  the  throat  of  man  these  were  the  most 
astounding.  First  one,  then  another,  then  altogether,  com- 
25 


370  PPAIN    ANI^    TIIK    SIWNIAUP.S. 

moncinuj  in  a  lii^h  \i*.^y,  and  cndini;  in  u  low  one  or  vii-e  versa, 
liroiidsidos  of  consonants  were  disc-harmed  ai^ainst  each  other, 
with  destructive  ettect,  at  least  so  far  as  reixards  the  distortion 
of  the  c(»nntenancc.  Once  a  bonih.  thirteen  inch  at  least, 
hurst  in  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  mortars,  and  produced  a  vio- 
lent tit  of  cou<fliing,  which  was  music  compared  with  the 
noises  that  had  preceded.  It  is  said  tiiat  the  devil  was  ]ii(pied, 
ahout  the  time  of  tlie  i>irt]i  of  Ahel,  with  an  anihition  of  learn- 
in*;  this  Iani!;ua«;e,  for  which  purpose  he  resi(le<l  at  Hilhao  seven 
years,  and  in  all  that  time  ac(|uired  three  words.  His  children 
have  succeeded  no  better.  The  liasques  say  that  it  was  the 
hone^'cd  phrases  of  the  Euskara  which  Adam  whisjiered  into 
the  listenin«r  ear  of  Eve.  It  has  certainly  ])uzzled  ])hilol()ti:ists, 
and  the  leai'ned  investigations  of  Ilumholdt,  Larramendi  and 
others,  have  only  establislied  that  it  is  a  fully,  nay  exuberantly 
developed  lan<:!;ua<j:;e  without  a  coj^natc  uj)on  the  earth.  Like 
lill  lanj^uages  which  have  ceased  to  convej'  the  mandates  of 
political  power,  it  is  doomed  eventually  to  disappear.  In  some 
])arts  of  Biscay  it  is  still  tiie  onl}'  speech,  but  the  Spanish  is 
creeping  in.  On  the  French  side  of  the  Biilassoa,  the  ]>rogress 
is  even  more  rapid.  A  gentleman  from  that  jiai't  of  France 
t<»ld  me  that  he  and  his  lirotliei-  had  established  a  ]iri/.e  for 
imj)r(jvization  in  the  hiUskara,  but  the  tendency  to  extinction 
could  n(jt  lie  an-ested.  In  the  mouths  of  the  mayoral  and  his 
opponents,  howevei",  it  gave  no  signs  of  decay.  Our  (piarri'l 
had  continued  some  minutes,  when  the  ])assengers,  apjjrehen- 
sive  let+t  so  much  thundering  might  cause  a  shower,  insisteii 
U|)on  ])roccediiig.  and  conipai-ative  (inlet  was  re-established  in 
the  valley  of  the  Oria.  Another  mountain  ridge  was  then 
crossed  into  the  valley  of  the  Urumea,  which  we  descended 
until,  about  dusk,  a  cast le crowned  (iniiiencc  was  descried 
rising  steeply  from  the  waters  of  the  Hay  of  Bisca}*,  and  a  few 
minutes  afterward  we  entered  the  fortress  gate  of  San  Sebas- 
tian. 

The  situation  of  San  Sebastian  is  commanding,  both  in  a 
inilitary  and  commercial  jioint  of  view.  Sebastian  and  Cadiz, 
at  the  two  extremities  of  Spain,  have  both  been  approj)riately 
compared  to  Venus  rising  from  the  sea.  It  is  built  on  a  nar- 
row neck  of  land  connecting  the  immense  rock — some  four 
hundred  feet  high,  called  ]\rount  Orgullo,  upon  which  stands 
the  castle — with  the  maiidand.     The  French  seized  it  during 


I 


SAN    SEBASTIAN. — IRUN.  371 

the  Peninsula  war.  From  them  it  was  taken  by  the  Britisli  b}^ 
storm.  Tli()ui;-h  an  allied  town,  being  S^^anish,  and  thou_i!;]i  the 
Spanish  contingent  at  that  very  time  were  nobl}-  jiroteeting 
the  besiegers  against  the  efforts  of  Soult  at  San  Mareial,  it  was 
sacked  with  a  ferocity  unparalleled  even  among  savages,  and 
was  finall}'  burnt.  The  English  officers  did  their  utmost  here, 
as  at  Badajoz,  to  restrain  the  excesses  of  the  soldiers,  but  in 
vain.  At  the  latter  place,  the  Duke  of  Wellington  was  com- 
pelled to  flee,  lest  he  should  be  shot  by  the  infuriated  demons. 
As  may  be  imagined,  the  English  are  held  here  in  utter  abom- 
ination, and  are  considered  the  Cagots  of  the  world.  The 
burning  had,  however,  the  good  effect  of  causing  the  town  to 
be  relniilt  in  fine  style,  with  clean  streets  and  regular  houses, 
though  the  confined  space  causes  them  to  be  rather  higher 
than  consorts  with  S})anisli  customs.  The  harbor  is  ver}'  se- 
cure but  rather  small,  and,  they  sa}^,  difficult  of  access.  As 
a  military  post  it  is  of  the  first  importance.  No  enemy  could 
safel}-  invade  this  portion  of  Spain  without  first  securiug  pos- 
session of  it.  The  view  of  the  P^'renees  and  of  the  sea  from 
the  castle  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  peaks  of  the  giant  chain 
are  tipped  with  fire,  and  the  little  town  at  its  foot,  with  the 
placid  harbor,  are  shrouded  in  vast  shadows,  is  indeed  magnifi- 
cent. The  people  of  San  Sebastian  being  engaged  in  foreign 
commerce  have  not  so  many  prejudices  as  their  neighbors,  and 
are  quite  disj)0sed  to  give  and  receive.  I  speak  again,  however, 
from  tiie  recollections  of  the  previous  visit,  for  upon  this  occa- 
sion my  view  did  not  extend  beyond  the  street,  and  my  con- 
versation was  confined  to  the  landlady  and  her  daughter,  a 
buxom,  bustling  lassie,  with  health  and  energ}-  enough  for  a 
dozen  lives. 

After  an  hour's  delay  we  repassed  tlu'  fortified  entrance,  and 
whirling  along  the  Alameda,  over  Avhich  swept  a  delicious 
breeze  from  the  sea,  commenced  ascending  the  high  country 
that  lies  between  this  and  Irun.  We  w<»und  around  the  Bay  of 
Los  Pasages,  which  is  so  C(>m])lctel3'  lan<l-locked  as  to  ajipear  a 
hike,  and  finally  came  to  the  little  town  of  Irun,  the  last  in 
Spain,  situate  upon  a  loft}'  hill  that  overlooks  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  Bidassoa.  For  the  first  time  since  my  cntr}-  by 
the  Puerto  dc  lienasque,  I  heard  the  word  "  passport"  from  the 
mouth  of  an  official.  I  handed  it  to  him.  It  was  an  old  one 
well  supplied  Avith  visas  of  a  past  generation,  a  couple  of  bun- 


372  Sl'AlN    AM)    THK    SPANIARDS. 

dredor  more,  and  sccmuhI  to  puzzle  him  aniazin«jjly  as  he  tnruod 
it  first  ono  side  and  then  aiiothor,  hut  tl>ore  had  not  been  the 
scrape  of  a  Spanish  pen  within  the  hist  six  years  at  least,  lie 
looked  at  nie,  an<l  then  thon<;ht  of  the  little  fee  which  he 
deniaiuls  of  travellers  on  their  leavini^  Sjtain,  as  though  tliat  of 
itself  <lid  not  render  one  suiHciently  niiscrahle,  and  finally  con- 
cluded, with  the  help  of  a  small  hoy  and  a  dim  lantern,  that  all 
was  right.  It  wa.s  formerly  the  hahit,  also,  to  search  the  bag- 
gage at  Irun,  lest  specie  should  be  carried  out  and  the  country 
thus  impoverished,  but  sounder  teaching  has  shown  that  noth- 
ing is  so  useless  to  a  country  as  the  overplus  of  coin,  so  that  wo 
were  allowed  to  carry  out  all  that  we  might  have  the  good 
fortune  to  possess. 

The  whole  population  of  Irun  seemed  to  he  in  the  streets  or 
on  the  balconies.  As  it  is  the  first  town  upon  entering  Spain, 
and  otfers  a  marked  contrast  to  the  Bayonne  side,  travellers 
are  apt  to  remember  it.  Some  difticulty  had,  on  my  first  visit, 
detained  us  there  a  couple  of  hours,  and  in  that  time  I  became 
])ractically  acquainted  with  several  little  Spanish  customs 
Mhich  I  have  since  i)ut  to  good  use.  One  was,  that  on  wishing 
to  pay  for  my  chocolate,  J  lound  the  tK-bt  hail  been  discharged 
by  an  unknown  friend.  J  had  Ibrgotten  this  peculiarity  of 
Spanish  manners,  and  for  some  time  could  not  comprehend  why 
the  Mozo  would  not  receive  ni}-  money,  thinking  thei-e  must  be 
some  mistake.  In  our  own  countr}",  I  fear  the  waiter  would  have 
condescendingly  received  jiay  fi-om  both  pai-ties.  My  comjian- 
ion  in  the  berliila  was  ;u<|uaiMti(l  in  \]\c  town  and  proposed 
that  I  should  accomj)any  him  on  a  visit,  which  I,  nothing  loth, 
agreed  to.  An  elderly  lad}-  and  a  younger  one  called  at  the 
house  while  we  were  there.  The  latter  smote  me  through  at 
once.  She  was  of  medium  lu-iglit,  beautifully  rt)unded  b)rm, 
rcular  features,  daik  Iciir,  and  jjcarly  teeth  peeping  from 
behind  a  pair  of  rosy  lips.  As  her  large,  lustrous  eyes  fell  upon 
me,  1  thought  I  had  never  seen  anything  to  resemble  her  upon 
earth,  and  began  to  fear  that  a  death  stroke  bad  at  last  been 
received.  But  Andalusia  had  not  then  been  seen.  1  woidd 
have  been  glad  to  meet  once  more  the  fair  maid  of  Irun,  in 
order  to  compare  her  with  the  daughters  of  the  Guadalquivir. 
Perhaps,  though,  it  was  loiiiinate  that  I  did  not,  as  the  sight  <»f 
half  a  dozen  young  additional  Basques  would  have  spoilt,  or  at 
least  marred  the  romance  sadly. 


THE    BRIDGE    OF    THE    BIDASSOA.  373 

The  diligence  rattled  down  the  steep  eminence  to  the  Bidas- 
soa,  which  we  wei*e  to  cross  on  the  famous  frontier  bridge  that, 
could  it  speak,  might  tell  such  eventful  talcs.  How  many  a 
steel-bristling  battalion  and  plumed  squadron  passed  that 
bridge  never  to  return  !  How  often  has  the  tide  of  battle  raged 
over  this  ver}-  little  stream,  now  so  placid,  with  the  thousand 
stars  of  the  milky  way  glittering  from  its  bosom!  and  all  to 
gratify  the  selfish  ambition  of  worms  like  themselves  !  But 
these  are  trite  reflections,  though  peculiarl}'  appropriate  to 
the  locality.  To  say  that  I  regretted  the  necessity  of  leaving 
Spain  would  bo  superfluous.  Seven  times  had  the  orange 
bloomed  since  I  first  set  foot  upon  her  soil,  yet  it  now  seemed 
to  me  as  of  yesterday".  Enjoj'ment,  far  bej'ond  the  most  san- 
guine expectations,  had  fallen  to  mj-  lot.  The  romantic  dreams 
of  3'outh  seemed  to  be  half  fulfilled,  and  no  subsequent  events  of 
life,  however  untoward,  could  deprive  me  of  those  pleasing 
recollections.  As  we  approached  the  bridge,  a  guardia  civil 
opened  the  door  Avith  ^-Ildgan  me  vvm.  el  favor  de  siis  pasaportesy 
Satisfied  with  the  inspection,  the}'  were  returned.  At  the 
entrance  to  the  bridge  stood  the  Spanish  sentinel  in  national 
3'ellow  and  red,  with  dark  ej'cs  and  moustache.  A  couple  of 
dozen  steps  bi'ought  us  to  another,  a  sandy  bearded  sentimi  in 
familiar  red  pantaloons,  the  imperial  eagle  sjiread  upon  his  hat; 
at  the  same  moment  the  door  was  opened  again,  but  this  time 
Avith  ^'  Vos  passeports,  3£essi€urs,  S.  V.  P."     We  were  in  P'rance. 


THAI'TKR    XXTl. 

GEN  H  II  A  L. 

Political  Divisions — States  Rights — Self-Estccm  ami  Loyally — Fonlinanil  VII — 
Tho  Carlisls— Revolution  of  1854— Espartcro—O'Donnel— The  Nohility— (Inin- 
decs — Number — Character — Liberality  in  Politics — Wealth  and  Poverty — The 
Spanish  People — Dignity  and  Worth — Middle  and  Industrial  Classes — Pride — 
Indolence — Want  of  Respect  for  Life — Independence  of  ^loney — Heggars. 

The  Spanish  Empire  was  compai'cd  by  Etliimiul  ]iiirke  to  a 
whale  stranded  u])on  the  sea-sliore.  In  his  time,  the  eoin])arison 
was  not  inai)pi'()priate.  Exliausted  with  a  life  of  unwonted 
activity-,  it  lay  sui>inely  inert,  scarcely  heeding  the  current  as 
it  whirled  past.  But  the  present  century  has  witnessed  tho 
passage  of  fearful  storms  over  the  political  surface  of  the  Pen- 
insula, which  have  lashed  its  waters  into  fuiy,  and  seemingly 
threatened  the  destruction  of  all  existing  institutions.  Since 
1888  many  revolutions  have  taken  place,  whose  causes  and 
results  have  seldom  been  accurately  comprehended  by  for- 
eigners. Here,  as  elsewhere,  rages  the  conflict  of  two  ideas — 
tlie  one  that  mankind  are  made  for  government,  the  other  that 
government  is  made  for  mankind;  and  were  Spain  isolated  from 
the  rest  of  Europe,  Ihe  troiiblcil  watn-s  would  soon  subside 
into  reasonaltie  quiet.  But  the  neighborhood  of  Ei'ance  intro- 
duces two  other  ideas,  antagonistic  in  themselves,  which  have 
KUKill  following,  yet  whose  adherents  take  advantage  of  every 
commotion  to  make  themselves  felt.  These  two  latter  schools 
resemble  each  other  in  this,  that  both,  nominall}'^  democi-titic, 
undertake  to  shape  the  destiny  of  every  citizen  through  the 
agency  of  a  great  central  power — prescribing  what  he  shall 
do,  and  what  he  shall  not  do,  and  for  the  free  will  of  the  indi- 
vidual substituting  tho  opinion  of  an  Emperor  or  of  a  committee 
of  safety.  It  is  difficult  to  say  which  of  them  is  most  in  con- 
tradiction to  the  sentiments  of  the  great  body  of  tho  Spanish 


SARTORIUS. THEIR    SELF-ESTEEM    AND    EQUALITY.  o(5 

nation  ;  yet  that  they  exert  considerable  influence  bj'  i>;etting 
upon  the  end  of  tlic  lever  is  undeniable.  vSartorius  was  a  dis- 
ciple of  the  first,  and  attempted,  b}^  means  of  a  coup  d'etat  and 
force,  to  rule  throuirh  the  more  edicts  of  a  sovereign.  His 
ministry  was  overthrown  by  counter  violence  at  Vicalvaro  and 
in  the  streets  of  the  capital,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  he  and 
his  followers  are  buried  for  ever.  The  mob  of  Madrid,  headed 
b}"  Pucheta,  the  bull  fighter,  attempted  the  second  b}'  similar 
violent  means,  and  were  similarl}'^  overthrown.  Neither  had 
the  slightest  sympathy  in  the  heart  of  the  population,  who 
silently  looked  on  rather  as  spectators  than  as  participators  in 
the  drama. 

If  there  be  one  trait  in  the  Spanish  character  more  strongly 
develoj)ed  than  another,  it  is  self-esteem,  a  conviction  of  his 
rights,  and  his  dignity  as  a  man  and  a  Spaniard,  and  for  that 
reason  alone.  In  comparison  with  this,  all  the  accidents  of 
birth,  wealth  and    ottice  are  as  nothing.     A  certain  degree  of 

"  Or? 

respect  is  acknowledged  and  paid  to  some  of  these  accidents, 
but  it  is  a  respect  of  form,  and  confined  within  very  narrow 
limits.  Hence  comes  the  pi'actical  equality  that  reigns  among 
all  classes,  manifested  even  in  the  jealous  application  of  Usted, 
a  contraction  of  Vuestra  Merced  (your  worship),  as  a  style  of 
address  which  is  used  to  Counts  and  street  sweepers  alike, 
though  the  title  may  be  recognized  occasionally  as  an  ap]iella- 
tive — a  strange  contrast  to  the  Teutonic  nations,  where  French 
is  sometimes  found  convenient  to  avoid  the  eternal  recurrence 
of  Durchlant,  Iloheit,  Excelenz,  Grace,  Lordship,  and  other 
relics  of  a  barbarous  social  system.  In  the  Austrian  service  I 
believe  the  proper  use  of  "Du"  and  "Sie"  is  made  a  matter  of 
military  regulation.  I<]ven  in  Italy,  the  distinctive  sl\-le3  of 
addressing  equals,  su])eriors  and  inferiors  is  still  to  a  certain 
extent  retained.  All  this  is  utterly  unknown  in  Sjiain.  If  a 
S])anish  boot-black  were  addressed  as  "Thou"  instead  of  lasted, 
"your  worship,"  he  would  be  at  a  loss  to  comprehend  the  use  of 
a  grammatical  form,  which  is  expressive  only  of  tender  affec- 
tion, and  would  attribute  it  to  an  ignorance  of  the  language — 
not  to  an  assumption  of  superiority.  The  origin  of  this  exter- 
nal qualit)'  must  be  sought  in  their  history.  From  the  time  of 
Pelayo,  personal  slavery  among  Christians  was  scarcely  known 
in  the  Castiles,  unless  it  were  in  the  Scigneurics  bordering  upon 
France,  where  the  feudal  svstem   took  some  root.     The  nature 


37G  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPAMAIIDS. 

of  the  roli^^ions  wars,  carried  on  nnooasiu<rly  witli  the  Moors, 
rendered  inipossilile  an>-  other  distinetion  of  persons  than  tliat 
of  faith  and  of  individual  prowess.  The  road  to  wealth,  power 
and  reputation  was  open  to  everyone  who  chose  to  make  a 
guccessful  fora}-  against  these  invadei's.  The  downfall  of  the 
Moorish  power  was  followed  hy  the  discovery  of  America — a 
still  wider  tield  for  natural  talents,  where  every  European  was 
a  demigod,  and  mere  pig-hei"ds,  such  as  Pizarro,  could  acquire 
kingdoms.  To  this  sense  of  personal  dignity,  the  pre-eminence 
of  their  country  under  Charles  and  I'liilip,  atlded  a  national 
j)ride,  little  in  liiii-iiioiiy  with  its  fallen  fortunes  of  the  present 
day.  An  amusing  instance  is  iiarrate<l  of  this  during  the  reign 
of  Louis  XIV.  When  the  Sjwmish  nohles  were  signing  their 
adhei-enee  to  his  descendant,  their  King,  they  respectively 
aftixed  to  their  names  the  words  "as  nohle  as  the  King,"  and 
one  ad<led  ''y  algo  mas,"  at  which  a  hori-ilied  French  courtier 
exclaimed,  "Surely  you  do  not  think  youi-  family  more  ancient 
than  the  ]k)urbons?"  "Yon  forget,  sir,  that  /am  a  C-astillian," 
was  the  reply. 

The  States  rights  jirinciijle  is  jtrofoundly  ingrained  in  the 
Spanish  heart — far  more  than  in  the  United  States.  Though 
the  foundatidii  of  llieii-  charaeler  l»e  the  same,  the  differences 
are  striking,  and  are  marked  hy  the  houndary  lines  of  the  jyro- 
vinces,  which  seem  to  be  moral  as  well  as  geographical  fron- 
tiers. Kov  have  these  differences  as  yet  yielded  to  the  influence 
of  railroads  and  mutual  emigration.  The  Catalans  are  indus- 
trious, energetic  and  irlx-liioiis.  The  .\ragonese,  pt'rtinaciiMis, 
firm,  even  obstinate,  and  at  times  ([uarrclsome.  Tlu-  \  alen- 
ciaiis.  hard  working,  fond  of  amusement ,  lull  of  genius,  but  j>ass 
quickly  from  one  extreme  to  another,  and  aiv  prone  to  the 
shedding  of  idood.  Tlu-  (iallicians  and  Astui-ians,  wt-il  disposed, 
industrious,  honest  as  the  day  is  long,  and  easily  satisfied.  The 
Castillian,  serious,  formal  in  demeanor,  dignified,  consistent, 
and  worth}-  of  entire  confidence.  Tlu'  .\ndaliisian.  gay,  grace- 
ful, imaginative,  enthusiastic,  exuberant  in  genius,  a  charming 
companion,  and  entirely  opposed  to  unnecessary  labor.  There 
is  little  love  lost  between  these  various  provinces.  Spain  has 
felt  in  her  civil  wars  the  evil  effect  of  this  want  of  unity,  for 
evei-y  such  difference  is  apt  to  assume  a  sectioinil  aspect.  Thus 
till-  party  of  Don  Carlos  was  almost  confined  to  ]iiscay,  Na- 
varre   and    Aragon.     But,    on    the    other   hand,    it   saved    the 


LOYALTY.  377 

countiyin  the  great  contest  with  Najioleon, -who  vainly  tliouglit 
Spain  conquered  with  tl)c  capture  of  ^ladrid,  just  as  Kossuth 
mistook  the  mob  of  New  York,  jelling  at  his  carriage  wheels, 
for  the  great  American  people.  The  necessities  of  modern 
times  have  required  that  the  bond  of  union  should  be  drawn 
closer,  but  Narvaez  and  his  successors  proceeded  too  far  in 
that  direction,  and  one  of  the  good  actions  of  the  present 
Ministr}'  has  been  to  undo  their  work  and  to  restore  vigor  to 
the  extremities.  Such  is  evidently  the  path  of  true  statesman- 
ship. Unit}'  to  a  certain  extent  is  consistent  with  the  feelings 
of  the  nation,  and  having  a  natural,  not  an  artificial  origin,  can 
be  ]>rescrvcd  without  violence.  Commerce,  aided  by  railroads 
and  the  telegraph,  will  bind  it  firml}'  enough  Avithout  recourse 
to  the  vulgar  acts  of  force  and  the  army  and  navy;  the  great 
jiostal  and  railroad  lines  in  which  the  central  government  is 
interested,  the  immense  herd  of  officers,  who  derive  their 
appointment  from  the  same  source,  will  consolidate  its  power 
sufficientl}'  for  all  purposes  of  good,  while  the  strong  local 
attachment  and  intense  personality  of  the  Spaniard  Avill  pre- 
vent him  from  becoming  a  floating  Proletariat,  and  justif}-  a 
considerable  delegation  of  ijrovincial  powers.  He  is  intensely 
conservative  also,  and  much  more  disposed  to  submit  to  the 
past  than  to  the  varying  whim  of  any  man  or  set  of  men, 
however  great  their  pretensions  to  wisdom,  which  disposition 
is,  indeed,  an  invariable  characteristic  of  those  who  prize  indi- 
vidual liberty  and  hate  des]>otism. 

Of  all  the  countries  in  Kurope,  therefore,  Spain  seems  to  mc 
the  best  fitted  for  a  republic,  and  the  Spaniards  to  ]iosscss  most 
happily  the  combination  of  national,  local  and  personal  pride, 
which  fits  men  for  living  in  an  organized  community,  with  the 
advantages  of  self-government.  Yet  the  chances  for  any  such 
results  are  small,  for  though  the  present  Queen  has  lost  all  iiold 
upon  the  respect  of  the  nation,  the  Spaniard  is  b}'  nature 
lojal.  Attachment  to  the  .'sovereign  is  essentially  a  part  of  his 
character,  and  it  is  surprising  with  liow  much  JcnienC}*  they 
treat  her  frailties,  and  with  hnw  much  delicacj-  she  is  s])ared 
even  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol.  I  Avas  at  Seville  when  3Ierino 
attempted  her  life.  There  was  but  one  sentiment  in  the  popu- 
lation high  or  low ;  the  word  "  infame  "  resounded  throughout 
the  city,  though  the  government  was  at  the  lime  tending  in  a 
mo5t  unpopular  direction,  and  peculiarly  odious  to  that  prov- 


378  SPAIN    AM)    THE    srANIAllDS. 

ince.  The  idea  of  u  republic  enters  into  tlie  heads  of  very  few. 
Indeed,  tlie  conduct  of  the  so-called  republicans  of  the  Fau- 
bourg; St.  Anloine.  in  June.  1S4S,  has  brouicht  discredit  upon 
the  very  name,  and  I'rii^htened  or  disgusted  all  except  the  lol- 
lowers  of  Kspartero  and  Cavaignac,  who  are  really  republi- 
cans, that  is  to  say,  they  believe  that  liberty  consists  in  the 
absence  of  tyranny  and  unnecessary  control,  not  in  a  mere 
change  (jfrnastcrs;  that  power  begets  ojipression,  and  that  that 
govern ntent  is  best  which  governs  the  least — necessary  to  pre- 
serve llu'  society  for  whicli  it  was  established.  It  may  be  said 
that  the  whole  ot  French  ])olitics  vibrales  bi'tween  the  two 
extremes,  and  the  sole  question  is,  who  shall  rule  us?  For  as 
J)e  Toc<iueville  truly  ren)arks,  the  only  ertect  of  the  frequent 
revoluti(jn8  of  the  last  half  century  has  been  to  substitute  the 
red  cap,  the  golden  and  the  iron  crown  successively  for  each 
other.  Ever}'  party  as  it  ascends  the  seat  of  power,  adopts  the 
same  means  antl  manner  of  government.  The  Bil)liollie<iue 
Xationale  becomes  the  Bibliotheque  Royale  or  Imperiale; 
otherwise  little  alteration  is  visible.  In  Spain  thei'c  is  no 
question  as  to  who  shall  be  King.  Nearly  all  have  settled 
down  upon  the  present  Queen  and  the  Cortes.  IJut  the  questiou 
warmly  contested,  is /io<r  shall  we  be  ruled  y  and  this  involves 
the  ])ractical  distinctions  of  Spanish  jjoliticsT 

The  i)atriots  of  the  War  ot  Independence,  who  found  llieiu- 
selves  at  Cadiz  deserted  by  their  cowardly  monarch,  and 
charged  with  the  duty  of  governing  the  country,  at  least  the 
jiortion  of  it  which  was  pi'cserved  from  the  invader,  set  about 
forming  a  constitution  rather  in  the  spirit  of  philosiqihers, 
dealing  with  abstract  principles,  than  as  statesmen,  and  gave 
birth  to  the  instrument  of  1S12,  which  might  have  answered 
the  purp(»se  well  enough  had  they  also  enjoyed  the  ])Ower  of 
creating  a  luiticjn  to  suit  their  constitution.  Hut  taking  the 
S|)aniards  as  they  were,  hampei'ed  with  the  relics  of  ancient 
and  irreconcilable  institutions,  it  was  uttci'ly  unfitted  for  the 
j)urpose,  and  has  always  failed  when  ]Mit  in  ju-actice.  Upon 
his  restoration,  Fei-fjinand,  who,  if  devoid  of  the  courage  of  his 
great  ancestors,  inherited  their  arbitrary  nature.  Bourbon-like, 
Ibrgetting  nothing  and  learning  nothing,  subverted  their  labors 
and  treated  the  members  of  the  convention  as  his  greatest 
enemies.  Persecution  became  the  oi'der  of  the  day,  and  every 
evil   tiling  that  a  contest  of  six  years  had  swej»t  away  was 


DON    CARLOS.  370 

restored;  even  the  Inquisition  resumed  its  autliority.  In  1820, 
a  reaction  took  place,  and  tlie  pendulum  swung  to  the  op])osito 
extreme.  The  philosophic  hands  of  Martinez  de  le  Rosa,  pure 
as  snow  themselves,  were  unahle  to  restrain  the  violence  of  liis 
part}-.  This  charmin/2;  writer,  and  excellent  parliamentarian, 
was  deticient  in  the  stern  determination  of  a  revolutionary 
leader,  imposing  the  law  not  on]}-  upon  his  enemii'S  but  his 
friends.  Personally  brave  himself,  and  read}*  to  die  at  any 
moment,  in  defence  of  the  good  cause,  he  yet  belonged  rather 
to  the  class  of  martj-rs  than  of  heroes.  Disorder  ran  wild. 
The  blood  of  innocent  priests  and  helpless  old  monks  detiled 
the  garments  of  liberty,  until  the  Duke  of  Angouleme  cantered 
through  the  Peninsula,  without  a  hand  being  raised  in  defence 
of  this  abortive  revolution.  From  that  time,  until  the  death  of 
el  Ixeij  ahsoluto,  a  perpetual  gloom  overhang  the  nation.  What- 
ever it  possessed  of  intelligence  or  virtue  languished  in  exile. 
At  length,  to  the  inexpressible  relief  of  humanity,  el  Key  abso- 
luto  was  gathered  to  his  ancestors  in  the  Escorial,  and  then 
arose  a  civil  war,  which,  in  the  origin  of  its  parties  and  the 
various  motives  of  the  combatants,  was  unique.  The  King,  in 
dying,  bequeathed  the  realm  to  his  daughter,  for  the  sham 
Cortes  is  not  worthy  of  mention.  His  brother,  Don  Carlos, 
claimed  the  throne  by  virtue  of  the  fundamental  salic  law,  which 
liad  been  established  upon  the  entr^^  of  the  Bourbons.  The 
Liberal  party  su])ported  Christina  and  her  daughter;  the  Abso- 
lutists, Don  Carlos,  so  that,  according  to  appearances,  the  roles 
were  reserved,  those  who  were  in  favor  of  a  free  government 
shedding  their  blood  in  defence  of  the  right  of  Ferdinand  to 
Avill  awa^'the  country  at  his  death,  and  the  Absolutists  uphold- 
ing the  established  law  against  the  despotism  of  this  royal  pre- 
rogative. But  the  contest  was  really  \ory  different.  Christina 
JKVving  neither  law  nor  reason  to  sustain  her,  was  compelled  to 
court  the  men  of  ISli',  who  with  their  sympathizers,  accepted 
the  overture,  l)ringing  to  her  support  nearly-  the  whole  of 
Spain.  The  Alj.solutists  were  so(m  subdued.  But  the  Basque 
provinces,  seeing  in  the  centralizing  tendencies  of  the  new 
trovernment,  a  dan<rer  to  their  local  and  ancestral  liberties, 
rallied  under  the  heroic  Zumahicarregui  around  their  fueros  to 
which,  as  well  as  other  existing  institutions,  the  programme  of 
Don  Carlos  offered  protection.  With  these  went  Aragon  and 
Catalonia  rather  from  a  general  disposition  to  rebel,  than  from 


380  SPAIN   ANP  Tin:  spaniauhs. 

any  svmnatliv  with  absolutism.  The  loss  of  Zinnalacarreffui 
by  a  chance  shot  before  Bilbao,  was  a  death  blow  to  the  hopes 
of  Don  Carlos,  and  the  convention  of  Veri^ara  completed  the 
ruin  of  the  Absolutist  party,  willi  their  i<h'as  of  Divine  rii^ht. 
The  victors  jjradually  fell  into  the  inevital)le  division  of  those 
who  are  almost  content  with  things  as  they  are — the  ^lotlera- 
dos — and  those  who  are  in  favor  of  a  stead}'  progressive  move- 
ment— the  Progrcsistas.  Of  course,  the  extreme  Aloderados 
were  so  a])prehensive  of  going  ahead,  that  they  went  l)ack- 
ward,  and  the  extreme  Progresistas  were  in  favor  of  dispens- 
ing with  every  thing  except  the  locomotive  itself.  In  the 
course  of  events,  all  reasonable  apprehension  of  the  Carlists 
having  disap]>eared.  the  Moderados  became  more  deciiledly 
pronounced  for  their  favorite  policy  of  guarding  against  the 
dangers  of  license  by  strengthening  the  central  power,  and 
gradually  absorbed  the  outskirts  of  the  C'arlist  part3\  Success 
crowned  their  exertions.  Espartero  Hed  for  his  life,  and  Xar- 
vaez,  a  man  of  consummate  ability,  finally  assumed  the  reins. 
Things  went  on  steadily  in  this  direction  until  Sartorius 
made  a  deliberate  attenijit  to  overthrow  liberty  and  re-estab- 
lish the  govei'nnient  of  I'liilip  11.  Tlie  revolution  of  lsr)4 
hurled  him  into  tiie  ab3-ss  of  inliimy.  The  revohition  was 
commenced  b}'  O'Donnel  and  the  other  military  chieftains,  but 
they  having  faiiL<l  in  tlieir  first  effort,  the  molt  of  Mmhid  took 
it  iji  hand,  and  the  (Jovernment,  true  to  its  centralized  imbe- 
cility, having  nothing  to  rely  upon  but  unreliable  soldiers,  and 
still  more  unreliable  officers,  8uccuml)cd  to  t\\e populacho  of  the 
capital,  as  such  (Jovernments  always  will  do,  sooner  or  later. 
Sartorious  and  Christina  escaped  paying  the  penalty  of  their 
treason.  "The  life  of  the  one  and  the  ill-gotten  wealth  of  the 
other  were  justl}'  forfeited  to  their  outraged  countrj*.  O'Don- 
nel, doubtless  much  to  his  disgust  and  astonishment,  found, 
himself  the  hero  of  a  mob.  \^\\i  the  universal  voice  of  the 
nation  called  for  Espartero,  who,  with  unfeigned  reluctance,  left 
his  retirement  at  Logrofio,  and  attempted  anew  to  shape  the 
destinies  of  his  countr}-.  Old  TJeni'i-al  Saii  Miguel  had  by  his 
personal  jiopularit}'  ari'ested  the  mob  when,  in  their  thirst  for 
blood,  they  marched  to  the  ])alace  ilenianding  the  lives  of 
the  royal  family.  But  the  task  of  stemming  the  c-urrent, 
finally  and  effectually  fell  to  Es|)artcro,  who  with  infinite  diffi- 
cult}-,  succeeded  in  so  doing,  and  in  mooring  the  storm  tossed 


ESPARTERO. — o'dONNEL.  381 

vessel  once  more  in  safety.  This  done,  tlie  Avlieel  of  fickle 
fortune  a<;-ain  revolved,  and  he  was  relegated  to  his  mountain 
reti-eat.  O'Douuel  stepped  into  the  vacant  phiee,  and  thus  lar 
has  nianag-ed  to  sustain  his  position. 

The  life  of, Espartero  has  been  a  chequered  one.  With  none 
of  the  usual  advantages  of  fortune  or  birth,  he  has  twice  been 
hailed  as  the  saviour  of  his  country,  and  twice  has  he  been 
driven  from  almost  sovereign  power  without  in  any  degree  for- 
feiting the  esteem  of  the  nation.  He  possesses  the  two  virtues, 
rare  among  European  statesmen,  of  truth  and  honesty.  Sin- 
cerely attached  to  the  principles  of  constitutioiuil  libert}-,  he 
has  endeavored,  Avhen  elevated  to  office,  to  carry  'them  into 
practice.  1  am  sorry  to  believe  tliat  Napoleon  was  half  right 
in  saying  that  this  is  not  the  age  for  Washingtons.  Europe 
seems  to  need  and  to  desire  tlie  hand  of  iron,  even  if  the  velvet 
be  somewhat  worn  otf  the  glove.  Espartero  resembles  rather 
the  early  statesmen  of  our  republic,  who  were  content  Avitk 
serving  tlieir  country  Avithout  the  prurient  ambition  of  wear- 
ing the  liver}'  of  oftice,  and  whose  intellectual  statue  did  not 
require  the  advantage  of  a  pedestal  in  order  that  it  might  bo 
rendered  visible  to  the  world.  Such  ideas  of  self-abnegation 
are  not  in  vogue  be3'ond  the  water,  and  those  who  are  gov- 
erned by  them  can  with  ditttcult}-  contend  against  the  palace 
Camarillas  that  undermine  the  ground  beneath  their  feet.  The 
general  disposition  is  in  tiivor  of  a  unity  of  arbitrary  power.. 

O'Donnel's  character  is  in  better  harmony  with  the  prevail- 
ing opinions.  Unscrupulous  as  a  politician  and  in  ftict  little 
more  than  an  adventurer,  he  has  sufficient  wisdom,  or  jieriiaps 
patriotism,  to  see  that  downright  absolutism  docs  not  accord 
with  the  necessities  of  Sjiain,  and  has  succeeded  in  i-alhing  to 
his  administration  the   eidightened  liberals  without   forfeitinsr 

CD  ^ 

the  support  of  the  conservatives,  llis  policy  seems  to  be  that 
of  the  moderate  Progresistas.  At  least  they  have  su])jiorted 
him.  Order  and  security  arc  maintained,  while  the  tendency  is 
to  restore  to  the  Ayuntamientos  as  much  liberty  as  is  consist- 
ent witli  tiie  necessities  of  national  defence.  Yet,  during  the 
whole  of  my  sojourn  in  Spain,  his  tenure  of  power  was  very 
precarious,  and  I  would  not  have  been  astonished  at  an}-  mo- 
ment to  hear  that  he  Inid  been  deposed.  An  atlem])t  at  a  mili- 
tary insurrection  was  actually  made  at  Seville,  but  without 
success.     The  execution  of  the  offenders  gave  opportunity  for 


3S2  SPAIN    ANP    TUK    SPANIARDS. 

iniuiy  Mtiiiij  coinitarisons  bctwiHMi  tlio  revolution  or  successful 
rebellion  which  had  elevated  him  to  authority,  :>iid  the  ivhellion 
or  unsuccessful  revolution  which  had  sent  them  to  the  block. 
In  America,  wliere  every  measure  is  subjected  to  the  scrutiny 
of  an  Arijus-eyed  pivss,  and  the  country  resounds.with  the  din 
of  a  ]»residential  c<»ntest,  wa^ed  for  many  loni;  months  before 
the  rriiis  are  changed,  we  can  form  no  idea  of  the  thousand 
secret  and  personal  machinations  which  are  here  made  to  put 
the  "ins"  out,  and  the  ''outs"  in.  One  prominent  olijection 
made  to  the  administration  of  O'Donnel  is  that  he  liaa  be- 
stowed all  the  honors  of  the  country  upon  the  Vicalvarists. 
After  a  revolution,  it  is  but  reasonable  that  the  successful 
part}'  should  seize  the  vacant  spoils,  and  provided  the  best 
men,  who  are  really  competent,  be  selected,  this  is  hardly  a 
fair  ground  of  complAint.  Whether  O'Donnel  has  so  acted  is 
a  much  more  doubtful  matter,  and  there  is  perhaps  too  much 
reason  for  believing  that  he  has  sometimes  gratified  his  per- 
sonal and  party  feeling,  to  say  no  more,  at  the  expense  of  his 
country.  His  enemies  charge  that  he  considers  the  Vicalva- 
rists to  have  saved  the  countr}-,  and  consequently  entitled  to 
divide  it  among  themselves,  not  being  content  wilii  a  reason- 
able salvage.  The  breaking  out  of  the  Moorish  war  was  a 
fortunate  occurrence  for  his  administration,  ^'othing  could 
have  been  more  popuiai'  with  tiie  mass  (»f  the  nation.  The 
stirring  ballads  of  the  t'id  have  lost  little  of  their  interest  in 
the  hearts  of  true  Spaniards  b}-  the  lapse  of  ages,  and  the  song 
of  the  solitary  muii'teer  3'et  makes  the  Siei'i'as  echo  with  the 
romantic  adventures  of  the  re-concpiest.  The  terms  of  the 
peace  do  not  appear  to  have  lound  favor  with  the  nation,  and 
the  ])i'(»baliiiilies  ai'e  that  iiostilities  will  again  be  resumed 
soonei"  or  later;  but  as  the  Mooj-s  ari'  without  naval  ])ower,  the 
evil  consc(piences,  if  any  there  be,  will  fall  u[)on  the  army 
alone,  while  the  glory  will  be  of  the  whole  nation.  It  will 
nioi'covei' ai'ouse  the  dormant  national  pi'ide  as  it  has  already 
done,  and  cause  them  to  feel  that  their  eounti-y  is  once  more 
entitled  to  occupy  the  attention  of  I  lie  woi-jil.  If  victory  fol- 
low their  standai-ds,  it  is  possible  that  O'Donnel  may  continue 
Ibr  some  time  longer  to  rule,  though  Spain  is  doomed  to  un- 
dergo many  changes  yet  ere  she  settles  down  into  stability. 
The  whole  condition  of  affairs,  at  least  so  far  as  the  external 
form  of  government  is  concerned,  is  transitory,  so  that  it  is 


THE    NOBILITY. fiRANDEES.  383 

Rcarocly  wortli  the  tronlilc  to  (les('ril)o  it  more  niimilcly.  It  is 
better  to  s]ieak  of  tlio  various  classes  and  institutions  wliioh 
will  influence  any  crisis  and  any  form  of  government  tliat  may 
arise. 

The  nobility  naturall}'  occup}'  the  first  place,  and  though  by 
no  means  so  influential  as  the  similar  class  in  England  or  Aus- 
tria, is  yet  not  without  its  importance.  The  feudal  times,  when 
rank  and  wealth  were  so  inseparablj'  connected  as  almost  to 
be  synonymous — when  the  Count  was  the  ruler  of  a  county  and 
the  Duke  of  a  dutchy — have  passed  away  in  the  greater  part 
of  Europe,  and  a  nobility  of  birth  has  taken  their  place.  Tlie  re- 
mains of  the  old  s^-stem  still  linger  in  Spain,  and  there  arc  cer- 
tain lands,  the  ownership  of  which  gives  by  courtesy  the  right 
to  be  distinguished  bj-  a  title.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  such 
titles  are  little  respected,  and  confer  about  the  same  importance 
which  the  rank  of  a  colonel  or  major  of  militia  used  to  do  in 
the  ruder  settlements  of  America.  The  real  nobility,  recog- 
nized by  the  law,  is  one  of  descent,  as  distinguished  from  an 
aristocrac}'',  a  nobleza  dc  Sangre,  comprehending  the  various 
grades  known  in  other  countries,  with  the  exception  of  the  one 
of  prince,  Avhich  is  not  a  Spanish  title,  the  only  exception  I 
remember  being  that  of  Godo}-,  Prince  of  the  Peace.  ]\^)r  is 
the  importance  of  these  titles  measured  \)y  the  grade,  but 
rather  by  the  antiquity  of  their  origin ;  for  there  are  many 
persons,  uniting  all  grades,  who  3-et  select,  in  preference,  some 
ancient  title  of  Count,  thus  affording  another  exemplification  of 
the  independence  of  the  Spanish  character,  for,  though  the 
Cxovernment  was  apparently'  an  absolute  despotism,  the  mon- 
arch was  thus  virtually  denied  to  be  the  sole  fountain  of  honor. 
In  blngland,  the  title  of  Duke  conferred  upon  a  nobleman 
Avould  immediately,  like  Aaron's  rod,  swallow  up  all  his  other 
distinctions,  and  on  the  morrow  the  humble  backs  would  be 
bent  still  more  humbly  before  the  new  dignit}*.  Such  is  not  the 
case  in  Spain.  Nor,  indeed,  docs  a  title  of  itself  give  any 
acknowle<lged  pre-eminence  over  a  simple  gentleman  ;  the  very 
excess  of  Spanish  pride  thus  correcting  itself.  There  is,  how- 
ever, a  distinction  among  the  nobles  of  an  acknowlcrlged  pre- 
eminence. \\z.:  the  grandccships.  All  grandees  are  practically 
equal,  whatever  may  l>e  the  class  of  grandeesliip,  though 
there  are  formal  differences  amr»ng  them  as  {<>  the  time  of 
covering  themselves;  and  individual  ones  ai*e  entitled  to  certain 


384  SPAIN    AND    THK    SPANIARDS. 

finjtty  i)rivile^os  which  havi'  lii'cii  inhi-riUMl  from  tlio  iniddk* 
aires,  the  most  h<tnoi*;iltle  Itoiiii;  that  eXL-rcisod  hv  tho  Duke  of 
Medina  Ccli  of  claiiniM<jf  the  crown  at  every  coronation,  in  his 
right  as  representative  of  the  Infants  dc  la  Cerda,  who  were 
dis[)osscssc<l  hy  their  uncle  Sancho  el  Bravo  in  the  thirteenth 
century.  Those  whose  fanulies  date  from  tlie  great  feudal 
chiefs,  hy  no  means  aili;iit  a  social  equality  with  the  new  men  of 
the  last  two  centuries;  and  so  strict  was  this  formerly  that  the 
old  •'■randees  refused  to  address  the  new  hy  the  familiar  apiiel- 
lation  of  "  tu,"  which  was  given  to  each  other  as  heing  all 
cousins,  as  in  fact  they  were,  and  even  of  the  king,  he  heing 
on\y  pri in i(S  inter  ])ares,  ixud  intermarriages  hetween  the  royal 
family  and  those  of  his  companions,  the  counts,  heing  of  fre- 
(juent  occurrence.  The  power  of  the  sovereign  himself  was 
unaltle  to  i>reak  down  this  harriei-.  It  was  l<i  creme  de  la  enhne 
of  \'ienii;i.  By  intermarriage  and  otherwise,  many  of  these 
nobles  are  possessed  of  immense  estates,  and  unite  in  them- 
selves several  grandecships.  The  Duke  of  Ossuna,  for  instance, 
is  ten  times  grandee  of  Spain,  hesitles  ])ossessing  various  other 
titles.  The  remainder  of  the  tilled  nobility  are  styleil  Titiil(t<lns 
del  Jtcino.  As  I  have  said  before,  the  feudal  system  jtroper  was 
never  introduced  into  the  grealei-  ]>art  of  Spain,  so  thai  the  idea 
of  the  alter  nonentity  of  younger  compared  with  older  sons, 
or  ol"  daughters  compared  with  masculine  colhilerals.  formed 
no  jiarl  of  their  civilization.  The  I'Utail  of  a  title  to  the  male 
deseeiidaiils  only  was  seldom  made.  This  e.\i)lains  how  in 
.Spain  tiie  loftiest  honors  fi-e(|uently  descend  to  daughters,  and 
by  marriage  pass  ovei-  into  ditlerent  families.  Such  was,  in 
fact,  the  Spanish  development  of  the  Teutonic  idea  as  distin- 
♦••uished  rr<»ni  the  feudal,  uliieli  latter  ])roceeded  entirely  upon 
the  notion  of  actual  service  in  the  tield.  AVhen  the  Goths 
adopted  the  idea  of  hereditary  descent,  they  eai  ried  out  the 
principle  to  its  legitimate  deductions,  while  the  Knglish,  under 
the  feudal  law  of  William  the  Contpieror,  introduced  from 
France,  reached  the  ojjposite  conclusion.  The  most  honoi-able 
of  these  titles  are  tho.se  derived  from  the  great  warriors  before 
the  age  of  the  Catholic  sovereigns,  such  as  the  Mendozas.  the 
(juzmans,the  Velascos, Sandovals,  Zuiligas,  Pachecos,  the  (I irons 
and  those  conferred  during  the  three  succeeding  reigns,  when 
merit  was  necessary  to  distinction.  In  the  last  hundred  years 
the  privilege   of  thus   ennobling   has   been    used    unspaiiiigly. 


CHARACTER.  385 

General  iSan  Mignol,  a  most  worthy  old  gentleman,  -was  made 
a  duke  for  arresting  the  mol).  Espartero,  Xarvaez,  Palafox, 
Castafios,  Taeon,  received  the  same  distinction  for  services 
which  we  would  scarcely'  think  Avorthy  of  such  honoi-s.  The 
Moderado  chiefs  seem  to  have  a  particular  fancy  for  that  of 
marquis.  As  the  value  of  the  decoration  decreases,  the  facility 
of  acquiring  it  increases  in  proportion^  and  vice  versa.  One 
title  is  actually  del  Socorro,  because  the  recipient,  like  Prince 
Torlonia,  in  an  opjiortune  moment,  i-eplcnished  the  coffers  of 
his  sovereign.  Thus  has  the  sentiment  of  aristocracy  under- 
mined that  of  nobility.  Yet  with  all  this,  the  number  is  not 
greater  than  in  other  countries.  At  present,  there  are  about 
seventy-nine  dukedoms,  six  hundred  and  sixty-five  marqui- 
sates,  five  hundred  and  thirty-eight  countships,  seventj'-three 
viscountships,  and  sixty-one  l)ar()nies.  held  b}'  eight  hundred 
and  eighty-four  individuals,  one  hundred  and  nineteen  of  whom 
divide  among  themselves  one  hundred  and  ninety-seven  gran- 
deeships.  The  number  of  untitled  persons  claiming  gentle 
descent,  with  huge  coats  of  arms  over  their  famil}'  mansions,  is 
much  greater.  Their  abundance  is  very  natural  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  every  man,  during  a  contest  lasting  from  711  to 
1402,  was  a  soldier,  and  many  must  have  honestly  and  honora- 
bh'  won  their  spurs.  Those  Avho  Avere  in  the  battle  of  Las  Navas 
placed  a  chain  or  a  ci*oss  upon  their  shields  in  commemoration 
of  the  event.  Others  derive  the  scallop  shell  from  the  battle  of 
Clavijo,  in  which  the  forces  of  Spain  Avere  led  b}'  Santiago. 
Tiie  cross  of  St.  Andrew  represents  the  battle  of  Baeza.  The 
niemorj^  of  Salado  and  other  battles  is  in  similar  manner  per- 
petuated. Perhaps  the  most  appropriate  and  soldierlj-  of  them 
all,  unless  it  be  a  fiction,  was  the  device  of  the  Count  of  Bar- 
celona— four  upright  bars  formed  by  drawing  the  fingers,  dipped 
in  the  blood  of  the  wounded  Wifred,  down  his  shield.  As  I 
have  before  mentioned,  the  inhabitants  of  cert^iin  provinces  in 
a  mass  are  nominally  noble,  which  does  not,  however,  prevent 
them  from  bi-ing  the  most  industrious  in  Spain. 

Most  travellers  are  profuse  in  their  condemnation  of  the 
Spanish  nol)ility.  Certainh*,  an  aristocracy  of  any  sort,  wheth- 
er of  monc}-,  blood  or  intellect,  is  absurd  in  our  age  of  the 
world.  But  considering  the  circumstances  in  which  they  are 
placed,  the  nobility  in  Spain,  notwithstanding  some  very  poor 
specimens,  is  about  as  good  I  suspect  as  in  other  countries. 
liG 


3!^G  SPAIN    AM)    THE    SPAMAllDS. 

Persons  on(io\V('(l  with  an  attribute  or  a  distinction,  which  \» 
respected,  arc  apt  to  respect  tliemseives,  and  to  hcconic  wortliy 
to  a  certain  extent  of  the  respect  of  otliei's;  at  least  such 
shotiM  he  the  rule.  If  mankind  in  their  wis»h»ni  had  ai^reed  to 
revere  Ion<;  noses,  long  nosed  peojih'  wouhi  probahly  he  hii^her 
toned  than  before,  and  a  family  who  had  j)ossessed  this  attri- 
bute for  j^cnerations.  would  ho  a  <;reat  family.  This  I  take  it 
is  the  only  sensible  foundation  for  the  jn-inciple  of  hereditary 
Ijonors.  But  the  Ivatiti  nations  have  been  weaned  from  the 
idea  of  an  aristocracy,  and  consequently  the  difference  between 
their  aristocracy'  and  their  commonalty  has  ceased  to  be  so 
great  in  aj)pearance  as  that  of  some  other  nations  still  envel- 
oped in  the  fog  of  medianal  l':ii-l>;ii-isin.  The  closing  of  the 
interval  between  them  is  due  as  much  to  the  elevation  of  the 
lower  as  to  the  dojircssion  of  the  uj)pcr  classes.  The  etVect  of 
this  ])rou;ress  of  ideas,  tliuii^-li  i)y  no  means  so  great  as  in 
France,  is  yet  visil)le  in  Spain.  The  number  of  men  who, 
since  the  constitution,  have  risen  from  the  humblest  ranks  to 
the  lu-ad  <»f  the  government,  without  olijeetion  on  that  score, 
is  a  fair  example  of  it.  As  a  l>ody,  the  nobility  is  without 
distinctive  influence,  because  without  cohesion.  Any  such 
government  as  that  oi'  l*]ngland,  where  both  parlies  unite  in 
reserving  the  honors  and  emoluments  of  olHce  for  the  younger 
relatives  of  their  leaders,  woidd  not  be  tolerated  a  week.  In- 
deed, one  ol*  the  most  liiiious  railieals  in  Spain  is  a  martpiis. 
But  family  and  wealth  are  not  without  reasonable  influence, 
and  individuals  of  tiie  higher  i-ank  of  nobility,  if  (•onij)i'tent, 
can  easily  ol)tain  any  jxisition  they  may  covet.  As  a  class, 
they  have  always  been  in  favor  of  lilierty  whetievei'  it  was  not 
brought  into  too  dii-eet  o|)]io<iiioii  to  loyalty,  nor  is  it  uunat  iiral 
that  gentlemen,  who  consider  themselves  by  their  birthrighl 
the  e(pnil  of  any  human  being,  however  surrcumdi'd  by  the  ex- 
ternals of  powi'r,  should  desire  the  privileges  of  freemen.  The 
majority  of  the  ai'istocrac}'  certaiidy  do  not  nnike  great  exer- 
tions on  ordinary  occasions.  Why  should  theyl:'  They  carry 
out  one  of  our  maxims,  tliat  the  post  of  honor  is  the  private 
station,  and  are  content  with  the  position  to  which  they  are 
entith'd  by  birth.  If  any  value  is  to  be  attached  to  anli(pnty 
of  descent,  they  nvv  ct'rtainly  entitled  to  it  in  its  fullest  extent, 
for  there  arc  really  some,  in  comj)arison  with  whotn  Henry  V 
is  a  7WVUS  homo,  a  mere  upstart.     Men  deducing  their  origin 


WEALTH    AND    rOVERTY.  387 

from  individuals  wlio  were  i;-reat  persona_<2jes  wlien  Sjiaiii  was 
a  riieniciaii  colony,  and  wlio  are  Iionorahly  mentioned  hy  the 
Roman  liistorian.s,  not  to  .sjieak  of  tiie  descendants  of  (iei-yon, 
may  be  excused  for  holdinji;  themselves  a  little  hi^^Mier  than 
others  in  Europe  that  pride  themselves  upon  an  inferior  degree 
of  the  same  distinction.  Unfortunately  for  our  day  they  rely 
too  much  upon  the  past.  There  is  one  exception,  however, 
even  among  the  grandees,  a  gentleman  who  would  be  an  orna- 
ment to  any  class  in  society,  and  I  have  heard  of  no  English 
dulce  worthy  of  a  comparison.  Among  other  accusations 
against  them,  is  their  want  of  corporal  weight,  few  reaching 
two  hundred  pounds  avoirdupois.  This  is  true,  but  size  i.s  a 
poor  measure  of  greatness.  Napoleon  I,  Napoleon  III,  Ca.'sar, 
Alexander,  would  have  fared  liadly  by  this  standard,  nor  would 
Marion  and  Hamilton,  two  undouI)ted  geniuses,  have  thought 
it  less  strange  to  be  weighed  in  such  scales.  One  hundi-cd  and 
seventy-five  ])ounds  is  well  enough,  but  fifty  or  a  hundred  nu)re 
are  not  necessary  to  nobility-.  Spanish  men  are  elegantly 
formed  and  muscular,  and  Spanish  women  ai-e  beautiful,  but 
there  arc  few  leviathans  of  loveliness  in  the  Peninsula.  Adi- 
l")Ose  matter  is  rare,  the  only  fat  things  I  saw  being  the  hogs, 
which,  during  the  sweet  acorn  harvest,  present  a  rotundity 
truly  aristocratic. 

I  have  heard  foreigners  sneeringly  say,  what  kind  of  a  noluli- 
t}'  is  this  which  does  not  spend  monej^  gives  no  grand  dinners, 
few^  balls,  and  eats  no  more  than  common  mortals?  Such  mani» 
festations  of  excellence  are  not  in  accordance  with  the  customs 
of  the  country-,  and  another  fact  is  that  the  fortunes  of  tho 
great  families  are  eaten  up  by  their  stewards  and  retainers, 
who  form  a  part  of  their  famil}',  and  who  are  Ruj)ported  out  of 
the  common  fund.  Such  was  always  the  case.  Nor  were  they 
mere  servants,  but  included  men  of  learning  and  literature  also. 
The  necessity  for  these  great  armies  of  retainers  has  ])as8ed 
away,  but  the  retainers  remain,  sometimes  to  the  numljer  of 
thousands,  and  neither  they  nor  their  children  arc  ever  dis- 
charged. Then  again  the  loss  of  the  South  American  provinces 
and  the  invasion  of  the  Erench  and  the  JJritish,  in  the  War  of 
Independence,  have  caused  a  great  diminution  of  their  formerly 
inordinate  wealth.  .Manj'of  tlicm  are  comparatively  poor,  for 
the  cft'ect  of  progress  in  increasing  the  value  of  landed  proper- 
ty has  not  yet  made  itself  very  sensibly  felt.     Furthermore,  to 


3S8  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

restrictcfl  means,  is  united  tlie  recollection  of  the  groat  era  wlicn 
a  Spanish  grandee  was  acknowledged  throughout  Europe  as 
second  only  to  a  reigning  prince.  It  ma}'  easily  be  conceived 
that  tluv  are  not  anxious  to  make  a  display  of  their  altered 
fortunes.  I  should  lie  sorry  to  advocate  the  Spanish  aristocracy 
or  any  other  aristocracy,  l)ut  all  aristocracies  alike,  that  is  all 
who  live  upon  the  hihor  of  otlicrs  witliout  contrilmt ing  llioir 
])ropiirtion  to  the  advancement  of  the  common  country  are 
di-ones,  and  it  is  hardly  fair  to  select  this  as  the  scape-goat  of  a 
general  principle.  The  length  and  breadth  of  the  wide  world 
do  not  olfer  a  finer  example  of  nature's  nobility  tluui  a  true 
Spanish  gentleman,  whether  of  great  or  humble  family.  It  is 
true  that  the  old  Scotch  maxim  about  declining  families  is  ap- 
plical>le  to  Spain,  and  that  the  women  of  distinguished  origin 
are  better  than  the  men,  since  the  one  are  formed  and  educated 
at  home,  the  other  abroad.  But  this,  though  the  misfortune  of 
the  latter,  is  the  glory  of  the  former,  and  I  freely  confess  that 
when  the  fairer  part  of  creation — to  the  charms  of  personal, 
moral  and  intellectual  beauty — unite  an  untainted  descent  from 
the  .stalwart  knights,  who  in  the  mist  of  ages  defended  the  out- 
post of  Christianity  against  its  enemies,  I  do  find  an  additional 
reason  for  worshipi)ing  at  their  shrine. 

The  people  of  S]»ain  are  I'cally  worthy  of  admiration.  The 
tyrannv  and  coi  ruiition  which  have  enervated  the  higher 
classes  passed  lightly  over  them.  Their  niaidy  but  uneducated 
virtues  ceased  to  arouse  jealous}'  in  the  gloomy  despot  of  the 
Escoi-ial,  whoso  most  sincere  ambition  was  to  check  the  pro- 
gress of  liberty  and  inquiry,  and  to  retain  the  human  intellect  in 
fetters  which  it  had  outgrown,  and  whose  pressure  was  wear- 
ing away  the  very  substance,  so  that  the  nation  presented  the 
sjiectacle  of  an  unexampled  oppression  ujion  the  one  portion, 
while  the  other  enjoyed  a  liberty  practically  without  bounds. 
One  can  thus  comprehend  how  the}'  so  long  submitted  to  a 
government  in  appearance  the  most  absolute  of  Western  Eu- 
rope. Here  are  found  those  virtues  which  eminently  cliarae- 
terizc  the  nation — courage,  fidelity,  temperance  and  dignity. 
Whatever  may  have  been  one's  anticipation  of  their  character, 
it  is  fully  realized  in  the  peasantr}^  of  Old  Castile.  By  no 
means  so  brilliant  as  the  inhabitants  of  some  of  the  other 
provinces,  they  possess  more  solidity,  and  when  well  oflficered 
make  superb  soldiers,  the  last  to  complain  on  a  march  or  to 


PROGRESS    OF    EDUCATION    AMONG    TIIEM.  389 

boast  in  the  camp.  The}'  consider  tlieinselves  the  heart  of  the 
earth,  and  cannot  conceive  that  other  nations  should  be  put 
in  comparison  with  tliem.  But  as  a  set-off  to  their  pride, 
they  aspire  in  their  deportment  to  be  worthy  of  their  position. 
Taciturn,  grave  in  demeanor  and  dignified  in  gesture,  they  are 
yet  by  no  means  averse  to  amusement  if  confined  M'itliin  proper 
bounds,  and  are  the  type  of  Spanish  courtesy  and  loj^alt}'. 
Lilve  most  persons  whose  friendshij)  is  worth  possessing  they 
are  reserved  upon  first  acquaintance,  but  when  once  friends  no 
steel  can  be  truer.  In  this  respect  there  is  a  marked  difference 
between  them  and  the  English,  whose  reserve  is  attributable 
to  their  want  of  sociabilit}'.  I  have  already  alluded  to  the  dif- 
ferent characteristics  of  the  various  provinces,  more  decidedly 
developed  among  the  peasantry'  than  the  Hidalgos,  who  natu- 
rally resemble  each  other.  The  Andalusian  will  ever  be  enthu- 
siastic and  graceful,  nor  can  anj-thing  eradicate  obstinac}  and 
tenacity  from  the  Aragonesej  but,  Avith  all  these  variations, 
the  foundation  of  their  character  is  still  the  same.  All  classes 
of  the  population,  unless  perhaps  in  the  extreme  north-west, 
which  I  have  never  visited,  are  distinguished  by  a  dignified 
courtesy  of  manner.  Something  of  the  same  sort  still  lingers 
in  the  peasantry  of  the  south  of  France,  but  it  is  there  owing 
rather  to  good  nature  and  a  certain  species  of  gallantry  that 
have  always  distinguished  the  French.  In  Spain  it  springs  from 
a  genuine  self-esteem,  a  feeling  of  what  is  due  to  tlie  person 
himself  rather  than  a  disposition  to  please  another.  A  mule- 
teer will,  therefore,  offer  his  meal  to  the  passing  acquaintance 
with  all  the  air  of  a  grandee,  and  beggars  salute  each  other 
with  regal  majest}*.  People  endowed  with  these  personal  quali- 
ties are  capable  of  anj*  elevation.  As  3-et  no  great  effort  has 
been  made  to  eradicate  the  vices  of  a  past  age,  but  the  work 
of  amelioration  is  commencing.  The  necessit}'  of  diffusing 
education  is  acknowledged,  and  the  number  of  persons  vrho 
can  read  and  write  compares  favorably  with  any  country  in 
Europe  except  Prussia  and  Scotland.  I  did  meet  at  Turin  a 
scion  of  a  noble  house  in  Seville,  who  not  unnaturalh'  thought 
the  world  had  better  remain  as  it  was,  Init  the  journc}-  had 
opened  his  eyes  to  the  necessities  of  progress,  for  subsequently 
in  Andalusia  I  found  his  ideas  had  undergone  considerable 
change.  There  arc  scattered  here  and  there  a  few  of  the  same 
opinion ;  the  vast  majority,  however,  are  warmly  in  favor  of 


390  SI'AIN    A.\t»    THK    SP.VMAIIDS. 

entering;  the  /xroal  race  of  national  iin])rovonu'iit.  If  the  effect 
of  this  movement  is  to  he  tlic  destruetion  of  their  nohle,  chival- 
rous sentiments.  I  should  prefer  them  as  they  are,  hut  there 
are  «fo«id  reasons  for  hoping  hotter  results.  Spaniards  are 
by  nature  conservative.  If  they  run  into  excesses,  it  will  he 
only  i'or  the  moment.  Their  formal  manners,  grandiloquent 
st3*le  ami  anti(iuated  notions  of  honor  ma}'  seem  ridiculous  in 
the  eyes  of  foreigners,  who  are  unahle  or  unwilling  to  pene- 
trate into  the  recesses  of  their  character.  So,  too,  may  tlu-ir 
sincere  religious  faith  appear  ahsurd  to  those  who  have  oman- 
ci])ateil  themselves  from  every  control  except  that  of  pure 
reason.  Yet  who  wouhl  cast  this  hallast  over  for  the  j)leasure 
of  heing  tossed  about  by  every  contrary  wind  that  blows? 
The  examjije  of  Cervantes  has  not  been  followed  with  suHicient 
discrimination.  Don  (Quixote  was  a  satire  upon  the  unnatural 
romances  of  chivalry  ;  iiis  imitators  have  held  up  to  laughter 
and  ridicule  every  disinterested  sentiment  which  does  not  loolc 
to  some  material  i-eward  as  its  legitimate  object.  The  lofty 
inspiration  wdiich  inculcates  a  contempt  for  bodily  enjoynu  iits, 
and  preempts  its  subject  to  defy  the  perils  of  sea  and  land  in  the 
accomplishment  of  an  ideal  object,  is  scorned  as  vulgar  fanati- 
cism. If  the  result  of  pi-ogress  is  to  ln'  the  elimiuation  of  this 
element  from  Spanish  iharacter,  better  a  thousand  times  for 
them  to  remain  as  they  are. 

For  a  long  time  Spain  suffered  under  the  usual  want  of  a 
middle  class  to  interj)ose  between  the  nobility  and  the  peo])le, 
sympathizing  in  many  resj)ects  with  both,  vi-t  opposing  the 
preponileranc<;  of  cither.  In  the  mifliile  ages  the  cities  ful- 
filled this  function.  With  the  consolidation  which  took  ])lace 
in  i^iii'opc  during  tlic  tiftcciith  ct'iitiiry,  thcii-  political  iiiHuenco 
disajjpcai'cfl.  But  some  such  class  must  exist  in  every  socie- 
ty, otherwise  thei-e  would  i-age  a  perpetual  conflict,  residting 
alteiMiatcly  in  a  victory  of  the  one  and  tiie  siavcM-y  of  the 
other.  Vi)i'  threi'  centuries  the  Church  was  the  safety  valve  of 
S])ain.  Now  that  its  ])()wer  is  broken  down,  a  middle  class, 
similar  to  tiie  English,  ami  foiinde(l  mainly  on  ])r()perty,  is 
beginning  to  rise  and  to  assei-t   its  claims  to  a  share  of  i)Ower. 

By  the  side  of  these  is  gradually  sj)ringing  uj)  another, 
known  in  France  by  the  appropriate  designation  of  "  Indus- 
triel."  It  is  the  growth  of  this  class  which  has  added  most  to 
the  progress  of  the  age,  and  at  the  same  time,  has  caused  most 


MIDDLE    AND    INDUSTRIAL    CLASSES.  391 

of  its  dilliculties.  AVlu'tlier  the  solidity  niui  severily  of  the 
Spanish  uationtil  chariicter  will  control  its  manifestations  of 
(liseontent,  or  whether  it  is  doomed  to  bo  here  also  a  hot-hod 
of  revolution,  time  alone  can  show.  At  pi'osont  it  iw  contined 
ahnost  exclusively  to  a  few  of  the  northern  provinces.  The 
traveller  frequently  meets  its  agents  in  the  shape  of  ("ommis, 
who  are  certainly  not  calculated  to  make  a  favorable  imjircs- 
sion.  Though  without  the  impertinence  of  the  Parisian,  the}' 
are  far  inferior  to  tlie  (Jerman  or  English  om])lo3'oe  of  the  cor- 
responding rank,  and  disj^hi}'  a  taste  for  eating  and  drinking, 
a  forwardness  of  manner,  and  a  general  disposition  to  mere 
sensual  enjoyn\ents,  which  sh.ow  how  far  they  have  departed 
from  their  countrymen.  They  are  evidently  a  foreign  importa- 
tion, and  their  parasitical  union  with  the  sturd}^  Spanish  oak 
has  not  a  very  congruous  appearance. 

Foreign  commerce  is  slowly  reviving,  but  many  j-ears  must 
elapse  before  it  can  rival  its  former  pre-eminence.  Tiie  honor 
of  the  vSpaiiish  merchant  in  old  times  was  proverbial.  Vol- 
taire has  preserved  a  beautiful  instance  of  it  in  their  i-ofusal. 
dni-ing  one  of  the  wars  of  the  seventeenth  century,  to  allow 
the  debts  of  the  French  creditoi's  to  be  confiscated  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. Of  their  integrity  now  I  know  nothing  of  my  own 
experience.  Foreign  merchants  have  com]>lained  of  them,  but 
that  is  the  same  everywhere  over  the  world.  There  is  no  good 
reason  why  S])aiu  should  not  bo  a  commercial  nation.  The 
present  flourishing  condition  of  English  commerce  did  not 
alwaj'S  exist,  neither  were  the  harbors  of  Italy  always  sur- 
rendered to  fishing  smacks.  Why  nations  should  thus  rise  and 
fall  is  beyond  the  reach  of  human  ken.  Tyre,  Carthage, 
Greece,  Italy,  Spain,  Holland,  England  have  all  had  their  day, 
and  the  trident  is  now  passing  (o  America  in  obedience  to 
some  law  not  revealed  to  statesmen.  There  is,  therefore,  no 
reason  in  the  nature  of  things  why  those  nations  which  once 
Avhitencd  the  sea  with  their  fleets  mny  not  do  so  again.  But 
it  cannot  be  accomplished  by  the  wave  of  a  magician's  wand. 
Commerce  no  longer  depends  upon  the  mere  carrying  trade;  it 
is  one  of  the  conse<piences  of  a  general  internal  develojtment, 
and  Spain  has  j\ist  entered  u]»oii  this  new  direction. 

There  are  certain  defects  in  the  Spanish  character,  whose 
salience  exposes  them  to  the  view  of  the  most  hast}-  traveller. 
One  of  these  is   their  pride,  wliich   is   excessive,  and   coupled 


392  SPAIN    AM)    TIIK    SPAMARnS. 

with  an  unconqueraljle  lenacity  of  jMirposo,  exercises  great 
influence  over  tlieir  contluct.  It  exists  in  all  classes  ofsociet}', 
home  and  abroad.  Even  the  Sjtanish  Jews  in  London,  as  I 
liave  already  mentioned,  who  have  little  reason  to  rememhcr 
their  former  country  with  jileasure,  have  always  hehl  them- 
selves aloof  from  association  witli  those  of  other  nations. 
There  is  nuich  to  be  said  in  excuse  for  this  sentiment. 
No  nation  in  modern  times  has  jjossessed  so  proud  a  past. 
Nor  is  it  possible  to  write  the  liistory  of  any  country  in  Ame- 
rica, Euroj)e,  Asia  or  Africa,  unless  perhaps  it  be  Kussia,  with- 
out assigning  a  place  of  more  or  less  prominence  to  the  .Span- 
iards. During  a  considerable  portion  ot  this  period  they  have 
stood  in  the  first  rank,  and  have  been  the  principal  support  of 
a  religion  which  rules  the  consciences  of  the  greater  half  of 
the  civilized  world.  Their  ancestors  were  enjoying  the  advan- 
tages of  enlightenment  at  a  time  when  the  bare-legged  princes 
of  the  north  were  living  the  lil'e  of  semi-brutes  in  straw  hovels. 
True,  their  country  no  longer  occupies  the  same  exalted  jtosi- 
tion  it  once  did,  hut  those  who  are  concei-ned  actively  with  the 
present  have  little  time  to  tiiink  upon  the  subject,  and  secret 
])ride  dwells  more  complacently  upon  i)ast  than  present  glories. 
This  qualit}'  ])roduces  in  some  respects  injurious,  in  others, 
beneficial  effects.  It  certainly  does  elevate  their  tone,  jireservc 
their  anti(piated,  i)erhai)s,  but  still  lofty  notions  of  honor,  and 
guards  them  from  the  commission  of  many  a  deed  of  low  vil- 
lainy. On  the  oilier  hand,  it  ire(|Uenlly  pi-events  a  j)oor  gentle, 
man  fi-oni  engaging  in  honest  industry,  anil  causes  him  to 
jjrefer  lounging  ahout  some  jdaza,  envehtped  in  a  thread-bare 
cloak,  and  pinched  with  want,  rather  than  stain  his  lineage  by 
embi'acing  a  plebeian  oeeuj)ation.  However  much  one  may  dis- 
j>rove  of  such  j)rejudices,  there  is  nothing  ludicrous  about  these 
relics  of  the  past.  For  my  own  part,  1  consitler  all  honest 
occu])ations  alike  honorable,  and  cannot  conceive  why  a  capi- 
talist is  more  respectable  than  a  street  ditcher,  provided  they 
be  otherwise  equal.  No  doubt  such  will  he  the  opinion  of  the 
world  at  some  future  day  j  it  certainly  is  not  at  present,  and  a 
laugh  or  sneer  at  these  old  Castillians  comes  with  a  poor  grace 
from  us  who  are  daily  conunitting  the  same  errors  on  })ei'haps 
a  minor  scale. 

But  the  genei-al   idea  which   jnH'vails  of  Spanish   indolence  is 
grossly   exaggerated.     No   douhl   there   is  a  vast  quantity  of 


INDOLENCE.  393 

idleness  there  :is  in  oilier  eountries,  where  the  rewai'ds  of  labor 
are  not  sufficient  fully  to  develop  its  energies;  and  it  must  be 
admitted  that  it  is  delightful  to  sit  upon  the  edge  of  an  Anda- 
lusian  fountain,  beneath  the  orange  groves,  watching  the  ^^had- 
ows  as  they  pass  over  the  face  of  the  dial.  But  to  attribute 
this  indisposition  for  labor  to  the  enervating  effects  of  the 
climate  is  absurd,  if  for  no  other  reason  simply-  because  the 
climate  is  not  enervating.  Very  few  people  labor  for  the 
amusement  of  laboring.  The  Avhole  arrangement  of  our  life 
and  actions  proceeds  upon  the  opposite  supposition.  There 
must  be  an  inducement,  consisting  for  the  most  part  in  the 
gratification  of  wants  and  desires.  In  addition  to  natural 
wants  and  desires,  civilization  creates  artificial  ones  which  arc 
more  imperious  still.  In  Andalusia  the  delicious  climate  and 
the  temperate,  enduring  character  of  the  people  reduce  the 
reasonable  wants  of  man  to  the  smallest  compass.  Fuel  is 
supplied  spontaneousl}^  b}^  the  sun,  and  food  by  the  earth. 
Doctors,  cai'riages,  and  other  necessities  of  northern  life,  cease 
to  be  so  regarded  here,  and  most  of  the  artificial  enjoyments, 
such  as  eating,  drinking,  rich  furniture,  equipages,  are  posi- 
tively penalties.  Art  and  skill  can  offer  no  gratification  equal 
those  which  are  furnished  them  by  nature.  In  the  north 
nature  docs  nothing;  cold  and  drear}-,  she  frightens  and  rejiels 
rather  than  attracts.  Industr}-  is  a  relief  from  the  (.'imui  of  a 
leisure  which  offers  no  pleasure  in  its  inanit}-.  The  primeval 
curse,  "  Thou  shalt  earn  th}-  bread  b}-  the  sweat  of  thy  brow," 
falls  bcavil}-  upon  its  inhabitants.  Their  wants  are  natural, 
their  pleasures  mosth'  created,  and  constant  labor  is  requisite 
to  prevent  society  from  relapsing  into  semi-barbarism.  The 
same  pressure  of  necessity  elsewhere  will  stimulate  the  same 
industr}'  quite  independent  of  climate.  Thus  the  pojuilation 
of  Valencia,  where  the  sun  darts  down  his  rays  with  African 
intensity,  is  yet  exceedingly  industrious,  for  the  soil,  thougli 
fertile,  absolutely  requires  the  labor  of  irrigation,  and  the 
crowded  numbers  im})0se  the  necessity  of  exertion.  They 
seem  to  appreciate,  also,  one  of  the  most  sensible  triluinals 
in  Christendom,  that  of  Los  Alcaldes  de  las  Aguas,  who  sit  once 
a  week,  without  lawyer  or  law  beyond  Justice,  to  decide  dis- 
putes about  irrigation.  For  this,  however,  they  are  indebted 
to  the  Moors.  In  Andalusia,  these  great  incentives  are  want- 
ing.    The  soil  is  fertile  as  the  banks  of  the  Nile.     Benignant 


304  SPAIN    AM»    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

iKiluiH'  lias  ]>oure<l  out  tin.'  last  contents  of  her  CorMuco])ia. 
TluTc  is  a  (leficioncy  i-atlior  than  a  surplus  of  jionulation.  Its 
inhahilants  are  tlu'rofore  neither  driven  to  (oil  hy  want,  nor 
enticed  to  it  l>y  (lu-  jirospict  of  some  higher  gratification.  Set 
forth  an  adc<iuate  inducement,  create  some  want,  such  as  a 
taste  for  the  arts,  a  thirst  for  glory  which  nature  cannot  grati- 
fy, and  no  people  are  moi'o  energetic  than  these  gay  loiterer.s 
of  Andalusia,  who  will  ire»iuently  undergo  more  fatigue  for  the 
purpose  of  attending  a  dance  ov  hiill  tight  than  would  sutiico 
to  gain  a  small  livelihood.  Their  lack  of  industry  is  the  fault 
of  their  civilization,  not  of  themselves.  It  mIII  he  said  that 
men  make  civilization,  which  is  partly  ti'iic.  iuit  so  is  the  con- 
verse, and  it  requii'es  generations  to  eftect  a  change.  31  any 
races  are  intlustrious  by  inheritance  and  habit.  The  Andalu- 
sians  are  not ;  their  ancestors  returned  to  their  long  lost  homes 
as  conquerors,  who  considered  mere  labor  inaiiprojn'iate  to  a 
soldier.  They  subse(|uently  became  the  recij)ii'n(s  of  a  wealth, 
wliicli  was  hai'dly  their  own.  ami  for  tit'ty  years  of  this  eentury 
it  has  scarcely  been  worth  while  to  sow,  since  it  was  lar  from 
certain  who  woidd  reap.  That  there  is  vast  room  for  improve- 
ment, south  of  the  Sierra  .Moreiia.  none  can  doubt,  but  it  is 
tiresome  to  hear  the  reiterated  ])latitudes  about  the  climate,  as 
if  laziness,  like  malaria,  wei'C  iiise|)aralile  from  certain  coun- 
tries. As  for  the  rest  of  Spain,  ami  particularly  (lallicia,  tiie 
Basque  Provinces  and  Catalonia,  1  think  tiie  i)easanlr3-  ai-c  in 
an  eminent  degree  hard  woi-king,  when  one  considers  (hat  no 
amount  of  lab<n*  can,  cxcej)t  in  rare  instances,  ilevate  llu-Mi 
much  above  the  ])osition  in  which  they  were  l)orn. 

There  is  another  defect  in  the  Spanish  charaetei-.  a  vi'i-y 
serious  one — their  want  of  a])preciation  of  human  sutiering. 
If  cruelty  means  a  ])leasure  in  indicting  ]iain,  I  do  not  think  it 
a  charactei'istic  of  the  Spaniards,  but  there  certainly  is  vast 
indifference  (o  suffei'ing  and  even  to  life.  If  a  Spaniard  \)vo- 
poses  to  himself  the  accomplishment  of  some  end,  (he  fact  that 
a  cei"(ain  nuiiibci-  of  lives  must  lie  sacrificed  is  a  nKi((er  of 
snndl  consideration.  'JMie  doctrine  that  the  least  possible 
amount  of  ])ain  is  (o  be  inflicted,  which  is  sufficient  to  the 
attainnu-nt  of  tlu'  ol)jeet,  is  scarcely  recognized  in  practice  as 
an  acknowledged  rule  of  action.  It  is  (he  same  with  beasts  as 
men.  To  tell  a  Sj)aniard  that  bis  bit  was  too  ])owei'ful  and 
inflicted   unnecessai'v  pain,  and  sboulil,  (bei-efore,  be  changed, 


INDEPENDENCE    OF    MONEY.  395 

would   be   an    unknown   sort,   of  lang-uage.      If  it   injurcMl   the 
horse,  tliat  would    l)e  anollier   matter.     By    not    niakini;;    this 
distinction  travellers  have   thought  that   Spaniards  ]K>sitively 
enjoj-ed  tlie  suiierings  of  the  animals  at  a  bull  tiglit,  whereas 
they  are  merely  indiiTerent.     They  go  to  see  the  contest,  and 
if  allowed  to  choose,  would  probably  prefer  that  tlu'  animals 
should  be  insensible  to  pain.     But  there  is  none  of  that  restless 
sentiment  upon  the  subject  here  which  characterizes  the  mod- 
ern French,  or  the  better  class  of  the  (Jerman  or  English  peo- 
ple,  though    tlie   brutal   disposition    of  the   lower  class   of  the 
latter  is  alike  without  a  counterpart.     It  may  bo  said,  too,  by 
way  of  palliation,  that  (he  Spaniards  have  no  more  respect  for 
themselves  than  for  others,  and  never  coin])lain  of  suffering. 
If  any  suppose  that  the   Spanish  race  is  essentially  cruel  or 
indirterent  it  Avould  be  an  error.     Our  ideas  of  humanity^  are 
entirely  things  of  the  last  hundred  years.      For  two  centuries 
the  Spanish  people  have  been  very  little  influenced  by  external 
nations,  and   to  a  considerable   extent    retain   their  old   ideas 
unchanged.     V])  to  the  agitation  of  the  rights  of  nuui  in  1789, 
it  is  amazing  what  cruelties  Avere  perpetrated  everywhere  by 
those    in    power.      So  completely    has   the  change  of  society 
altered  tlie  relations  Avhich  exist  between  man  and  man.  that 
wc    thiid<    the    Spaniards   ferocious   because   they    act   jjretty 
much  as  their  and  our  ancestors  did  a  half  century  ago.     But 
the  hand  of  progress  and  reform  has  seized  them  Avith  a  firm 
grasp.     The  rays  which  formerly  illuminated  onl}'  the  loftiest 
peaks  are  now  peneti'ating  into  the  valleys,  and  we  may  rea- 
sonably expect  to  see  the  day,  and  that  shortly,  when   their 
darkest  recesses  will  be  filled  with  light. 

There  is  one  feature  which  distinguishes  Spaniards  from  all 
other  nations  in  Europe — the  absence  of  that  respect  and  ado- 
ration for  the  mere  possession  of  wealth  which  is  the  moving 
spring  of  societj^  elsewhere.  Men  are  not  ranked  according  to 
the  length  of  their  ]>urses,  and  poverty  is  neither  a  sin  nor  a 
disgrace.  The  poorest  beggar  feels  his  full  dignity  as  a  man, 
and  maintains,  by  his  conduct,  the  apparently  self-evident 
truth  that  the  earth  was  made  for  man  and  not  man  for  the 
earth.  Their  habits  of  life  and  even  their  dress  are  admirably 
calculated  to  uphold  this  independence  of  worldly  means. 
The  enjoyment  of  intercourse  is  mostly  out  of  doors,  on  the 
Paseo,  at  church,  in  the  theatre.     The  bouse  \a  really  a  homo 


396  SPAIN    AM)    TlIK    Sl'AMARKS. 

not  intended  fur  llie  disidu}-  of  vain  glories,  l»ut  for  the  charms 
of  donicstic-ity  and  that  jirivacy  which  is  inconi])atihlo  witli 
the  presence  c»f  mere  strangers.  In  countries  not  hlessed  with 
so  fine  a  climate,  a  different  stylo  of  life  is  forced  upon  tho 
inhabitants;  the  sacred  enjoyments  of  home  are  sacrificed  for 
the  absorbing  ambition  of  disjday;  men  spend  their  time  in 
amassing  the  means,  and  wives  become  indexes  to  the  cajtacity 
and  liberality  of  their  husband's  pockets.  The  national  cos- 
tume in  Spain  is  simple,  and  the  distinction  consists  not  so 
much  in  the  costliness  of  tho  dress  as  in  the  elegance  of  tho 
wearer,  so  that  this  fruitful  source  of  ruin  to  families  does  not 
exist.  It  would  puzzle  the  most  keen-eyed  tax  assessor  to 
detect  the  various  grades  of  rich  or  })Oor  among  the  hapi)y 
throng.  Even  in  the  deportment  of  the  fair  promcnadcrs  it  is 
difficult  to  distinguish  the  difierent  ranks.  In  England  or 
Germany  there  is  an  unmistakealtle  ditterence  between  tho 
higher  and  lower  classes,  not  only  in  dross  but  in  manner;  this 
latter  has  as  little  existence  in  Spain  as  llu-  I'ornui',  all  are 
gentlemen  alike,  and  it  is  often  imiiossiblo  lor  a  stranger  to 
judge  of  the  exact  social  position  of  the  i)arties  even  alter  a 
slight  acquaintance. 

But  this  virtue,  when  carried  to  an  excess,  produces  j)racti- 
cally  an  evil  efiect  in  encouraging  beggar}-.  The  Spanish  beg- 
gar is  a  very  diftereut  person  from  the  English,  Italian,  or 
even  the  CJerman,  where  the  childi'cn  carry  their  mania's  com- 
pliments on  the  fine  weather  to  a  neighbor,  and  ask  if  she  will 
not  go  out  a  begging.  He  is  proud  and  dignified;  suggests 
the  propriety  of  alms,  but  does  not  insist,  because  such  a 
course  would  be  shocking  to  his  Castillian  pride.  Ho  sees 
nothing  humiliating  in  tho  occupation  itself,  but  only  in  the 
manner  of  exercising  it.  There  are  various  classes,  some  are 
really  objects  of  charity,  honest  persons  reduced  to  want,  who 
would  work  willingly  were  there  any  to  employ  them.  Hea- 
ven forbid  that  these  should  be  received  with  a  sneer,  or  that 
we  should  adopt  the  religion  of  Ch., I  us.  Montague,  and  let  ilum 
starve  in  God's  name.  But  thei-e  are  others,  l)eggars  by  j)ro- 
fession,  sons  of  beggars  and  beggaresses,  inheriting  poverty 
from  a  long  line  of  mendicant  ancestors.  A  ])ari  of  the  Sei-ii)- 
tures  is  carried  out  by  them  in  strict  obedience,  fi)r  they  take 
no  heed  what  they  shall  cat,  nor  what  they  shall  drink,  nor 
wherewithal  shall  they  be  clothed.      The  sight  of  these  pro- 


BEGfiARS.  307 

duces  no  indio-iiation  in  tlic  minds  of  Spaniai'ds,  avIio  give  or 
do  not  2;ive  ns  the  ftiney  strikes  them,  always  Avith  courteous 
speech  and  without  that  exhibition  of  contempt  which  foreign- 
ers disphiy.  The  pcrdone  /»e  inn.  por  Dios  is  an  effectual  guard 
against  them.  This  hereditary  race  of  beggars  will  disappear 
very  soon.  In  the  days  of  convents  and  monasteries  they 
found  a  steady  though  humble  support,  and  whatever  they 
obtained  from  strangers  was  considered  the  legitimate  fruits 
of  their  industry,  so  much  clear  gain  to  capitalize;  but  general 
charity  is  too  uncertain  a  reliance  to  marry  upon,  and  future 
travellers  will  regret  the  absence  of  a  characteristic  if  not 
very  ornamental  feature  of  Spanish  scenery. 


CUAPTER    XXIII. 

GENERAL    (;  O  N  T  I  X  U  E  P  . 

The    Cliurch — Reforms — Religious   Sincerity   of   the    Spaniard? — Tlic  Army — Tlic 
I'ress — lutcrnal  Improvements — Police — Political  Wants. 

The  Clnifch  has  alway.s  oxercised  a  proniiiioiit  iiifliioucc  in 
the  govenunont  of  S|)ain.  and  llie  ]ir()S])erity  of  the  country 
has  dcpi'ink'il  in  no  small  dcifrcc  upon  tlie  chaiMctrr  ot  its 
ecclesiastical  ])opulation.  A  considcral-le  part  ot  its  iiistory 
has  been  engrosseil  by  contests  in  Avhicli  questions  of  faith  were 
involved;  tirst,  with  the  Moors,  then  with  the  Turks,  and, 
finally,  with  the  Protestants.  It  is.  therefore,  natural  tliat  tho 
whole  nation  shoidd  be  overspread  with  a  religious  hue.  More 
than  that,  the  Spanish  character  is  essentially  religious.  Their 
fervor,  devotion,  their  indift'erenec  to  most  of  the  pleasures  of 
the  body,  their  poetical  temperament,  attract  them  toward 
some  influence  beyond  the  earth.  Spain  has,  therefore,  always 
been  the  home  of  enthusiasts,  and  though  we  may,  perhaps, 
never  again  behold  Loyola  and  Santa  Tensa,  the  same  spirit 
survives  in  all  de|)artments  of  human  life,  and  re(jnires  only 
the  influencH'  of  propitious  circumstanci's  for  its  (levi'Io])ment. 
Tl»e  extravagances,  therefoi'c,  wiiicli  liavt-  appeared  in  conni-c- 
tion  with  their  pi'ominent  institutions  must  l)e  looked  njion 
with  some  allowance,  as  they  ai'c  the  legitimate  fruits  of  the 
national  character.  Thei'e  is  nothing  mediocre  in  the  countr}'. 
Everything  is  in  the  sujierlative  either  for  good  or  evil.  .More 
particularl}-  is  this  the  case  with  regard  to  the  Church.  The 
liorrors  perpctiatcd  by  Alexander  VJ  and  Toi'cineinaila  are 
more  than  counter-lialanced  by  the  virtues  of  Las  Casas,  and 
an  infinite  number  of  others,  who  have  given  a  lustre  to  hu- 
nninity  by  their  Inilliant  cpialities.  The  fierce,  unanimous, 
undying  resistance  otlered  to  the  invasion  of  Napoleon,  Avas 
due,  in  no  small  degree,  to  the  patriotic  efforts  of  the  priest- 


i 


THE    SPANISH    CHURCH.  3!)9 

hood,  wlio  surroiidorcd  evorvtliiiiif  for  tlie  inaintonancc  of  the 
Hational  honor  and  llu'  national  religion.  Ci'oss  and  sonictinics 
sabre  in  liand,  they  animated  the  (h'fenders  to  tlic  breach. 
Often  defeated,  they  yielded  not  to  their  oppressor,  and  with 
their  last  breath  still  maintained  the  rights  of  the  coward 
prince  who  had  ingloriously  acknowledged  himself  a  subject 
of  the  great  tyrant.  Of  course  their  enemies  stigmatize  them 
as  ianatics.  By  the  same  rule  of  logic  Marion  Avas  a  fanatic, 
Washington  a  fanatic,  and  every  other  patriot  who  weds  him- 
self to  his  country's  cause  for  weal  or  for  woe.  Where  educa- 
tion is  so  much  neglected,  the  lower  ranks  of  tlie  clergy  must 
frequently  present  lamentable  instances  of  ignorance,  but  the 
world  cannot  show  a  nobler  liody  of  Christians  than  the  l~!])an- 
ish  prelates.  iSecured  as  they  are  by  their  religion  against 
most  inducements  to  nepotism,  and  deprived  b}'  the  late  reforms 
of  the  means  of  gratifying  that  unworthy  sentiment,  their  lives 
are  devoted  to  the  duties  of  their  station.  Amid  all  the  scandals 
which  are  uttered  indiscriminately  by  natives  and  foreigners. 
I  have  never  heard  a  breath  whispered  against  tlieni.  The 
})olitical  influence  enjoyed  by  their  predecessors  no  longer 
exposes  them  to  the  tem})tations  of  worldly  ambition.  Nor  is 
there  any  such  division  of  parties  as  calls  for  their  interfer- 
ence;  so  that  religion,  in  its  strictest  sense,  engrosses  the 
whole  of  their  thoughts.  Would  that  the  same  could  be  said 
of  other  countries. 

The  history*  of  the  8])anish  ("hurch  is  a  noble  monument  to 
the  independence  of  tlie  nation.  From  the  earliest  times  it 
Avas  distinguished  for  its  resistance  not  onlj-  to  the  encroach- 
ments of  the  Papacy,  but  to  the  introduction  of  foreign  doc- 
trines, come  they  whence  they  might.  In  becoming  members 
of  the  great  Catholic  Ilierarch}'  they  never  ceased  to  be  Span- 
iards, and  asserted  the  independence  of  the  national  church 
upon  all  suitable  occasions.  These  events,  from  a  false  shame, 
were  concealed  by  those  Avho  wrote  in  later  dajs,  after  the 
e^taldishment  of  the  Inquisition,  when  any  departure  from  the 
established  rule,  whether  in  matters  of  jirinciplc,  or  jiractice, 
or  prejudice,  Avas  visited  with  fire  and  swoni.  IJut  a  more 
enlightened  spirit  has  been  awakened,  and  their  early  ecclesi- 
astical Avill  soon  be  as  great  a  source  of  pride  as  their  profane 
history-  lias  been.  The  hard,  material  features  of  the  feudal 
age,  subordinating  man  to  man,  or  still  worse  to  a  mere  clod 


400  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

of  oartli,  were  relieved  l»y  the  prepondcnmec  of  the  theocra- 
cy, Avhieh  spread  its  protectini;  wiiii^s  over  the  ojipressed.  and 
taught  the  haiiglity  baron  that  there  was  a  living  spirit  in 
whose  eyes  the  rich  and  the  poor,  the  powerful  and  the  obscure 
were  equal.  With  the  extension  of  its  empire  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  Spain  became  the  most  powerful  son  of  the  Church, 
and  almost  the  Church  itself  Unfortunately  with  it  came  the 
baleful  Inquisition,  stifling  every  thing  generous.  It  is  not 
strictly  correct  to  \iiy  the  blood}'  monster  at  the  foot  of  the 
Catholic  faith,  for  none  resisted  its  introduction  more  sincerely 
than  the  secular  clergy.  It  Avas  at  first,  at  least  in  Spain, 
essentially'  a  political  institution,  both  within  and  without  the 
Church,  intended  to  prevent  freedom  of  thought  and  discussion 
everywhere.  But  it  soon  souglit  a  new  theatre  of  action. 
Protestants  there  were  none;  Jews  and  Mohammedans,  except 
a  few  in  secret,  had  been  banished,  antl  for  want  of  pi-oper  ali- 
ment, like  the  fabled  monster,  it  devoui-ed  its  own  entrails.  It 
is  difficult  to  speak  with  nioderalion  of  an  institution,  one  of 
whose  rules  of  action  was  never  to  confront  the  witness  with 
the  accused,  and  which  treated  the  suspected  with  a  severity 
surpassing  that  of  the  condemned.  The  silent  efi'ect  whieli  it 
produced  upon  the  Spanish  character  has  seldom  been  exag- 
gcrate<l.  It  nearly  destroyed  theii-  natural  Southei'ii  Jrank- 
ness,  foi"  what  heart  could  expand  when  the  bosom  li-iend,  the 
father,  the  wife,  might,  pei-hai)s,  be  one  of  its  accursed  spies? 
Whatever  of  suspicion  yet  lingers  about  them  may  be  justly 
traced  to  this  S(juree. 

The  enormous  Avealth  of  the  Spanish  clergy  was  formerly  a 
"■reat  cause  of  scandal  to  the  world,  and  it  Avas  reasonably  and 
ti'uh-  aflirnu'd  that  the  quantity  of  lands  held  in  mortmain 
opposed  a  serious  obstacle  to  the  progi-ess  of  the  nation.  The 
clergy  were  naturally  poor  administrators  of  tln'ir  proi)crty, 
and  felt  none  of  that  necessity  for  enlightened  economj-  which 
struggles  to  increase  (he  interval  between  receii)t  and  expenses. 
In  the  middle  ages  the  lands  of  the  Church  were,  compara- 
tively, the  garden  spots  of  the  kingdom,  because  cultivated  by  a 
peasantry  whose  mild  servitude  enabled  them  to  feel  the  energy 
of  freemen.  In  the  progress  of  events,  the  balance  of  the  scale 
was  turned,  and  they  eventually  became  the  very  worst  cultiva- 
ted of  all.  Whatever  evils  may  have  flowed  from  this  source, 
have  now  ceased  to  exist.     The  ecclesiastical  property  has  been 


REFORMS.  401 

absorbed  by  tbe  State.  ^Fonks  and  friars  arc  matters  of  his- 
tory. The  salaries  of  tlie  eleri!:}'  are  paid  by  tbe  Government. 
There  are  no  bislioprics  of  Durliam  or  Canterbiuy,  no  sine- 
cures, no  ])lura]ities.  The  emohiments  of  their  offiee  are  barely 
sultieient  to  snppoi-t  tliem  and  to  cover  their  private  charities, 
and  the  Spanish  Church,  so  far  as  its  government  is  concerned, 
is  really  a  reformed  church.  The  change  was  inevitable,  for  it 
is  impossible  long  to  resist  the  progress  of  ideas;  the  new  wine 
threatened  to  burst  the  old  bottles.  In  the  days  of  aristocracy, 
the  church  govei'nment  naturally  accommodated  itself  to  the 
condition  and  exigencies  of  society.  The  laws  of  jtriinogeni- 
ture  secured  the  pre-eminence  of  the  heads  of  noble  houses. 
Bishoprics,  masterships,  abbeys,  offered  corresponding  positions 
for  the  younger  members  of  the  fiimil}-,  and  for  great  intellects 
born  out  of  the  privileged  classes,  whose  efforts  might  other- 
wise have  been  directed  to  revolution.  In  a  woi-d,  they  were 
the  safety-valves  of  the  system.  The  philosophers  of  the  eigh- 
teenth centur}'  struck  a  death  blow  at  the  root  of  aristoeracj', 
by  preaching  anew  (with  very  little  religion  it  must  be  admit- 
ted) the  doctrines  of  the  New  Testament  as  to  the  natural 
equalit}'  of  man,  which  had,  during  seventeen  centuries  of  vio- 
lence and  oppression,  been  practically  forgotten.  The  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  new  sj'stcm  involved  the  destruction  of  the 
old.  It  was  no  longer  necessary  to  society  that  the  Church 
should  be  a  great  civil  institution,  standing  between  the  class 
of  wealth  and  power  and  those  who  possessed  neitlier.  In 
England  and  Austria  only  does  it  still  maintain  its  civil  influ- 
ence and  unnatural  prerogative.  In  Spain  they  have  utterly 
disap))eared,  aim :st  as  much  so  as  in  America. 

Still  the  Catholic  is  the  established  religion,  and  the  exercise 
of  any  other  is  strictl}*  forbidden.  Persons  of  different  faith 
cannot  even  intermarry  within  the  territorial  limits,  though 
provided  with  the  papal  dispensation,  and  Giltraltar  or  liayonne 
used  to  l)e  the  Gretna  (Jreen  for  impatient  lovers.  Such  is  the 
law  of  the  land.  Koligious  liberty,  therefore,  in  its  largest 
sense  does  not  exist.  The  United  States  of  America  prou«lly 
stand  alone  in  the  world  as  the  only  country  wjiere  tiic  privi- 
lege is  allowed  to  every  one  of  selecting  and  supporting  the 
form  of  worship  or  the  faith  most  congenial  to  his  convictions 
or  jirejudices,  which  is  certainly  the  beau  ideal  of  religious 
libert}'.  No  such  tiling  exists  in  Europe.  The  French  system 
27 


402  8PAIX    AM)    THE    SI'AMAUDS. 

is  eiilightenctl  in  so  far  as  it  supports  all  religions — Catholic 
Protestant,  Jewish  and  Mohammedan.  The  other  countries 
for  the  most  part  tolerate  a  difference  of  faith,  but  impose 
restrictions  and  taxes  upon  dissenters  for  the  maintenance  of  a 
creed  which  they  sometimes  regard  as  little  better  than  hea- 
thenism— the  very  worst  species  of  oppression,  admitting  as  a 
theoretical  right  what  it  refuses  in  ]>ractice.  The  denial  of 
toleration  in  Spain  is  ])racticall3-  productive  of  little  hardship. 
There  are  no  Protestants  in  that  country,  and  probably  never 
will  be  any,  for  the  heart  of  the  people  is  essentially  Catholic, 
and  (he  age  of  profound  religious  conviction,  and  consequeiitly 
of  conversif)ns,  is  almost  gone.  The  dominant  religion,  too, 
has  been  shorn  of  its  power  to  oppress.  So  far  as  the  rights  of 
the  S])aiiish  pcojde  are  involved,  therefore,  it  is  a  matter  of 
suprenu^  inditl'erence  whether  other  religions  be  prohibited  or 
not,  and  the  few  strangers  who  travel  among  them  seem  either 
not  to  suffer  very  much  from  the  want  of  spiritual  consolation, 
or  have  laid  in  such  a  supply  in  advance  as  would  last  them 
during  the  journey,  the  latter  probabl}^,  as  their  religion  would 
otherwise  be  a  poor  reliance.  The  resistance  which  the  (Jov- 
ernment  for  a  long  time  made  to  Protestant  burying  grounds 
should  not  be  j^assed  over  so  lightly,  as  it  was  a  relic  of  bigotry 
unworthy  of  a  great  nation  and  disgraceful  to  the  age.  A 
Protestant,  Jew  or  Mohammedan,  who  had  the  misfortune  to 
depart  this  life  within  her  borders,  was  buried  in  an  old  field 
with  the  horses  from  the  bull  ring,  or  cast  into  the  sea,  il  upon 
the  coast.  Even  now  any  public  religious  ceremony  at  (ho 
funeral  jirocession  is  pi'ohibited.  This  privilege,  thus  Jealously 
restricted,  was  most  grudgingly  yieltlc*!  after  a  series  of  j)erse- 
vering  applications  on  the  part  of  lioid  Palmerston. 

So  many  years  have  elaj)sed  since  the  abolition  of  mon- 
asteries, that  a  new  generation  has  grown  up.  Their  restora- 
tion, therefore,  is  impossible,  and  it  is  time  that  history  should 
begin  impardally  to  balance  (he  virtues  and  defects  of  these 
institutions,  wliicli  ])layed  so  impoi'tant  a  part  in  the  Christian 
world.  Hitherto  it  lias  all  been  upon  one  side.  Their  worst 
and  e.\ct'i)tional  features  alone  have  been  brought  into  relief  by 
the  light  of  adverse  criticism.  They  had  undoubtedly  lived 
out  their  lives,  for  there  is  a  life  of  institutions  as  well  as  of 
men.  The  labors  and  sorrows  of  fourscore  were  upon  them, 
yet  their  youth  and  manhood  had  been  vigorous,  and  their  old 


RELIGIOUS    SINCERITY.  403 

age  not  devoid  of  virtue  and  respect.  If  nieddlinni;  and  wurldly 
brethren  sometimes  disturbed  the  peace  of  families,  there  are 
also  iununicrablo  instances  of  bannoii}^  restored,  of  Avounded 
hearts  healed,  of  broken-spirited  and  despairing  victims  sootlied, 
which  liave  been  forgotten  in  the  privacy  of  domestic  events. 
That  tliC}'  have  frequentl}'  nourished  idlers  is  true,  but  it  is 
likewise  true  that  the  most  industrious  and  painstaking  of 
Spanish  authors  came  from  the  depths  of  a  cloister. 

The  Spanish  are  sincere  in  their  faith,  and  practice  it  as  they 
understand  its  precepts.  Mohammedans  complain  that  the 
followers  of  Christ,  having  a  very  good  religion,  though  a  false 
one,  utteidy  neglect  its  duties,  and  in  general  there  is  founda- 
tion for  the  criticism.  The  contrast  between  the  two  in  any 
common  meeting  place,  any  neutral  ground,  such  as  Gibraltar, 
is  ver}-  disadvantageous  to  the  latter.  The  Spaniards  have 
verj' justifiably  the  same  opinion  of  Protestants,  judging  them 
b}^  the  travelling  public,  who,  to  all  appearances,  are  without 
any  religion  whatever.  It  is  a  vain-glorious  boast  to  exalt  the 
pi'ecepts  of  our  faith  when  those  precepts  are  systematically 
overlooked  in  practice.  That  there  are  great  moral  defects  in 
Si)ain  ever}-  traveller  must  see,  but  they  are  derived  from  the 
false  system  of  government  under  whicli  they  have  so  long 
suffered,  and  not,  according  to  my  experience,  from  their  re- 
ligion or  from  an}' extraordiinuy  disobedience  of  its  injunctions. 
Certain  of  the  Commandments  are  never  broken,  and  if  some  of 
the  rest  are  infringed,  it  is  to  a  much  less  extent  than  in  other 
European  countries,  and  may  be  explained  by  tlie  lack  of 
industrial  employment  and  the  consequent  habits  which  idle- 
ness engenders.  That  superstition  still  lingers  in  remote  lo- 
calities, and  that  mere  sjinbols  of  faith  have  frequently  been 
confounded  with  the  faith  itself,  is  true,  but  the  advancing  tide 
of  free  thought  is  rapidly  sweeping  all  this  into  the  past,  and 
of  the  two  evils  it  is  certainl}^  the  less.  The  spirit  of  the  age 
is  entirely  against  not  only  superstition,  but,  I  am  sorry  to  say, 
religion,  that  is  a  religion  in  the  vital  sense  of  the  word,  and 
the  real  ground  of  apprehension  at  jiresent  is  from  a  deficiency, 
not  an  excess  of  belief.  The  atheism,  deism,  and  jt]iiloso|tliistic 
religion,  so  prevalent  in  the  soi-fIis(int  enlightened  countries, 
and  which  once  threatened  to  invade  the  Peninsula,  have  dis- 
appeared here  now  that  the  success  of  the  liberal  paity  is 
assured  and  the  material  power  of  the  Church  placed  under 


404  SI'AIN    AMI    TIIK    SI'AMAHnS. 

reasonable  restrictions  bj*  tlio  concordats  of  the  past  ton  years. 
Priests  and  monks  have  always  furnished  olijects  for  the  witti- 
cism of  Spaniards,  frequently  for  their  abuse,  and  sometimes 
their  violence,  but  woo  be  to  the  unwary  anti-Catholic  who 
confounds  this  with  any  want  of  respect  for  religion  itself. 
The  Spaniard  may  jest  about  the  housekeeper,  nephews, 
kitchen  and  good  wine  of  his  spiritur.l  j^uide,  but  doubt  as  to 
tlie  i»ropriety  of  his  lielicf  in  the  pnrit}-  of  the  Church  and  the 
immaculate  conception  of  Our  Lady  would  be  perilous  in  the 
last  degree.  There  would  be  ali<)ut  as  much  chance  for  a 
Protestant  proj)agandist  as  for  a  Mormon  prophet. 

In  another  point  the  itrevailing  (i])inion  of  outsiders  about 
this  country  is  equally  at  fault,  viz  :  in  their  estimate  of  the 
efficiency  of  Spanish  soldiers,  simi)ly  l»ecause  they  persist  in 
regarding  Spain  as  a  country  still  ])rof()un(lly  asleep,  if  her 
army  is  to  be  judged  b}'  that  of  the  eighteenth  century,  they  are 
of  course  correct,  but  Spain  of  the  eighteenth  and  Spain  of  the 
nineteenth  centuries  are  very  far  apart,  and  in  no  department 
more  than  in  the  niilitar}'.  She  has  fared  badly  at  the  hands 
of  forei«£n  historians.  The  Eni^lish  writers,  and  at  their  head 
Sir  Charles  Napier  in  his  admirable  history  of  the  I\  uinsnlar 
war,  have  studioush'  striven  to  deprive  her  citizens  of  all  credit 
during  the  War  of  Independence,  whether  for  skill,  (organiza- 
tion, courage,  or  general  efficiency,  and  their  statements  have 
poisoned  the  public  mind  wherever  the  language  is  spoken. 
The  French,  with  chai-acteristie  imjjartiality,  have  been  more 
disposed  to  do  tlu'in  justice,  luit  the  great  mass  of  our  country- 
men <lo  not  take  the  troulde  to  seek  for  truth  when  hid  under 
the  iiushel  of  a  sti'ange  idiom.  The  Sjiatiish  accounts  are 
unknown,  and  so  arc  liie  histories  of  the  (icrnian  olticora  serv- 
ing in  those  campaigns,  who  wei'o,  by  the  nature  of  their  posi- 
tion, the  most  unpi-ejudiced  ol>servers.  The  erroneous  opinions 
thus  formed  have  remained  fixed  in  the  general  iiiiiid  with 
unshakcable  tenacity.  Yet  the  evidence  of  eveiy  traveller 
during  the  last  ten  years,  capable  of  forming  a  Judgment  upon 
the  matter,  is  otherwise.  If  it  be  possible  to  estimate  the  efli- 
ciency  of  troops  by  their  appearance  in  time  of  peace,  I  slnnild 
have  no  hesitation  in  assigning  the  Spanish  army  as  high  a 
rank  as  any  in  Europe,  except  the  French,  and  the  expei-icnce 
of  the  Moorish  war  has  certainly  not  been  inconsistent  with 
that  position.      The  Spanish   infantiy  and   cavalry  were  once 


J 


THE    ARMY. COlNirOSITION    OF.  405 

the  best  in  tlie  world.  The  latter  were  entitled,  by  their  ebiv- 
alric  genealogy  to  be  the  worth}'  representatives  of  a  nation 
where  caballero  and  gentleman  are  still  synon^-nious.  The  lat- 
ter, until  the  fatal  battle  of  Kocro}',  made  Eurojie  tremble  at 
the  sound  of  their  approach.  The  same  individual  qualities 
exist,  the  same  muscular  strength,  the  same  physical  endur- 
ance, the  same  activity  of  person,  the  same  temperate  life,  the 
same  excitability  of  disposition,  the  same  tenacitj'  of  pui'pose, 
the  same  pride  of  character  continue  to  distinguish  them.  The 
curse  of  Spanish  armies,  for  the  last  two  hundred  years,  has 
been  the  incfficicnc}*  of  their  battalion  officers,  but  this  evil  is 
rapidly  disappearing,  and  with  its  disappearance  the  horizon 
will  once  more  become  bright  to  them. 

The  conscrijition  for  a  service  of  eight  3'ears  is  the  usual 
method  of  recruiting.  At  tirst  it  was  odious  to  the  last  degree, 
and  was  styled  ''  the  contribution  of  blood,"  but  the  natiun  is 
gradually  getting  used  to  it,  and  the  service  is,  moreover, 
becoming  more  popular,  so  that,  in  1859,  a  large  proportion 
of  those  who  were  discharged  re-enlisted  immediately.  The 
infantry  has  been  latel}'  organized  into  forty  regiments  of  the 
line,  each  with  two  battalions  of  eight  companies,  one  re(jiinerdo 
fijo,  at  Ceuta,  of  three  battalions,  twenty  battalions  of  caza- 
dores  in  imitation  of  the  chasseurs  a  pied.  There  are,  in  addi- 
tion, eight}'  battalions  of  "  milicias  jirovinciales"  as  a  reserve. 
The  former  organization  was  somewhat  different,  the  number 
of  the  companies  being  less  and  that  of  the  battalions  greater. 
The  Koyal  Guard  is  abolished,  as  giving  rise  to  unjust  prefer- 
ences, and  the  only  household  troop  arc  the  llalbadiers.  Their 
uniform  is  not  so  showy  as  the  Austrian,  nor  so  ugly  as  the 
French,  but  combines  suitability  with  a  reasonable  amount  of 
good  looks.  The  movements  of  the  drill  occupy,  in  like  man- 
ner, a  medium  place  between  the  French  and  Engli.sh,  not  so 
board  stiff  as  the  one,  nor  so  entirely  nonchalant  as  the  other. 
The  men  are  larger  than  the  French  and  much  handsomer  fel- 
lows, though  witlnnit  that  good  humored  expression  which  i)rc- 
possess  in  favor  of  the  latter.  The  cavalry  is  divided  into 
nineteen  regiments.  They  are,  of  course,  fine  ridei's,  and 
mancuuvrcd  well  enough,  but  I  was  somewhat  disappointed  in 
the  horses.  The  pride  of  the  arm}',  however,  are  the  artiller}- 
and  engineer  corps.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary  artiller}-,  the 
Spaniards,  like  ourselves,  have  been  comi^elled  by  the  nature  of 


40G  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SI'ANIARDS. 

tln'ir  roiind'v,  intersected  as  it  is  everywhere  bj'  steep  valleys 
and  rocky  Sierras,  to  develop  the  system  of  mountain  hatteries 
Avith  three  mules  to  a  gun — one  to  carry  the  piece  itself,  an- 
other the  carriage, and  a  third  the  ammunition.  It  is  precisely 
what  is  i-e(|uired  for  the  country,  and  there  is  suitable  material 
at  hand.  The  paths,  though  narrow  and  steej).  are  firm  ;  the 
mules,  large,  sure-footed,  quick-moving  and  hardy,  and  the 
activity  of  Spaniards  in  climbing  hillsides  was  proverbial  even 
in  the  da^-s  of  Muza,  who,  in  his  report  to  the  Caliph,  pro- 
nounced them  to  be  "  cabras  para  escapar  en  los  monies." 
Marshal  Pelissier  paid  a  visit  to  ^ladrid  while  I  was  there,  and 
after  i-eviewing  the  garrison,  expressed,  warndy,  his  surprise 
and  satisfaction  at  the  efficiency  of  the  artillery.  During  the 
War  of  Independence  this  branch  of  the  service  was  always 
well  conducted.  In  our  day  it  has  kept  even  pace  Avith  the 
progress  of  improvement,  and  seems  to  have  been  the  principal 
cause  of  the  victories  in  Africa.  Of  the  engineers  I  can  give 
no  opinion,  but  they  rank  even  higher  in  the  estimation  of  those 
Avho  are  capable  and  have  had  ojiportunities  of  forming  a 
judgment. 

The  preponderance  of  onicers  in  the  Spanish  army  is  surpri- 
sing at  lirst  glance.  That  there  should  be  a  larger  number  in 
the  lower  raidvs  than  is  usual  in  (»(her  countries  may  be  de- 
sirable, for  the  mcii  see  little  actual  service,  and  when  the 
contingency  comes  it  is  therefore  necessary  that  they  should 
have  a  sufficiency  of  leaders  educated  in  the  science  of  war  to 
direct  them.  Such  is  tin'  case  with  our  volunteers,  who  will 
follow  if  well  led,  but  certaiid}'  not  otherwise.  The  objection- 
able feature  in  Spain  is  the  vast  number  of  generals.  The 
highest  rank  is  that  of  caplaiii-genei-al,  corresponding  to  mar- 
shal, of  whom  there  are  a  dozen  or  so.  some  of  them  merely 
honorary.  The  title  of  captain-general,  as  the  ruler  of  a  \n'0- 
vincc,  is  very  ancient,  and  until  this  century  their  powers  were 
ver}'  great,  in  fact  almost  sovereign,  imitated  prolial)!}'  fron\ 
the  AValis  of  the  Cordovese  empire,  who  united  all  sorts  of 
functions,  even  dispensing  justice,  just  as  the  captain-generals 
of  Spain  used  formerly  to  ])reside  in  full  uniform  over  the 
Court  of  Chancery.  The  kingdom  is  still  divided  of!"  into 
capitanias-generales,  Init  they  are  mere  military  districts,  and 
the  officers  in  command  have  been  shorn  of  all  civil  authoi-ity. 
Next  como  sixty-seven  lieutenant-generals,  one  hundretl  and 


OFFICERS.  407 

fiftj-sevcn  mariscalos  dc  canipo,  four  Inuulrcd  ami  one   briuja- 
dicrs — numbers  perfectly  preposterous  upon  the  footing  of  ac- 
tual service.     The  rule  of  advancement  is,  I  believe,  nominally 
that  of  senioritj^,  but  this  rule  is  enforced  only  in  some  depart- 
ments, such  as  the  artillerj^  and  engineers,  in  which  the  exami- 
nations are  very  strict;  whereas,  in  the  infantry  and  cavalry, 
such  is  not  and  could  not  be  the  case.     A  friend  at  court,  there- 
fore, is  worth  more  than  any  amount  of  capacit}'.     The  con- 
sequence is  that  comparatively  young  men,  if    supported  by 
palace  influence,  are  early  advanced  to  the  highest  places  in 
the  military  hierarchy.     After  that  there  is  no  object  in  the 
department  to  which  they  belong  to  concentrate  their  ambi- 
tion.    Their  rank  has  been  obtained  without  any  distinguished 
deed  of  valor  which   could  sanctify  it  in  the  public  respect. 
They  are  surrounded  by  a  collection  o'f  persons  as  little  distin- 
guished as  themselves,  and  if  they  desire  to  occup}^  a  place  in 
the  world,  to  rise  from    the  common  herd  of  generals,  they 
must  needs  enter  the  field  of  politics.     It  is  very  difficult  to  fix 
upon  a  sj'Stem  of  promotion  which  does  not  pi'oduce  injustice 
practically.     Nothing  can  be   more  unfiiir   than  that  men  of 
energy,  industry  and  capacit}'  should  be  compelled  to  wait  the 
slow  revolution  of  the  wheel,  Avhile  their  seniors,  without  per- 
haps a  single  recommendation,  are  mounting.     At  the   same 
time  it  is  equally  demoralizing  to  see  an  undeserving  junior 
pushed  up  through  all  the  grades  by  the  supple  adroitness  of 
some  friend,  male  or  female,  about  the  court.     The  system  of 
advancement  b}'  seniority  tends  to  overflow  the  higher  ranks 
of  the  arm}^  which,  however,  is  a  minor  evil,  if   the  depart- 
ments of  military  and  civil  life  are  kept  distinct.     But  such  is 
not  the  case  in   Spain  or  Europe  generally.      They  sit  in   the 
Cortes  or  ministry  partly  as  soldiers,  partly  as  civilians.     If 
their  adversaries  maintain  too  firm  a  grasp  upon  the  reigns  of 
power,  they  appeal  readily  to  pronunciamentos  and  revolution, 
and   hence  for  the  most  part  spring  the  various  commotions 
which  have  agitated  the  Government  since  the  peace  of  1814. 
It  is  honorable  to  them  that  in  the  majority  of  instances  the 
army  has  pronounced  for  liberal  government.     A  despotic  cen- 
tral power  can  hold  out  to  them  no  prospect  of  glory,  such  as 
gilds  the  bitter  pill  beyond  the  Pyrenees,  and  they  consequent- 
ly follow  their  natural  bent  which  is  for  freedom  and  equality. 
The  people  of  Spain  have  general!}'  taken  little  part  in  these 


408  SPAIN    AND    THE    SI'ANIARnS. 

demonstrations,  but  the  nation  is  becoming  tired  of  tliem ; 
tlierc  is  a  universal  desire  for  stable  peace  if  it  can  be  jmrchas- 
ed  on  reasonable  terms.  The  Morocco  war,  too,  has  withdrawn 
the  attention  of  the  army  chiefs  from  domestic  concerns,  and 
oft'ered  a  more  honorable  object  for  their  ambition;  and  the  late 
renunciation  of  the  Count  of  Montemolin  has  removed  a  ^talld- 
in<;  source  of  dissatisfaction,  so  that  there  is  ground  for  hoping 
that  the  day  of  organized  military  insurrections  is  })assing 
away. 

The  press,  as  usual  in  Europe,  is  mostly  concentrated  at  the 
capital.  The  centrifugal  tentlency  of  Spaniards  prevents  such 
an  entire  absorption  by  the  metropolis  as  happens  in  France 
and  England,  but  very  few  provincial  journals  venture  to  havo 
a  policy  of  their  own.  Being  a  thing  of  comparatively  late 
introduction,  and  its  birth  occun-ing  in  the  midst  of  revolution- 
ary throes,  it  is  essentially  and  bitterly  partisan,  and  directed 
lieart  and  soul  to  the  establishment  of  the  princi])le8  it  may 
espouse,  yet  in  the  midst  of  the  most  violent  excitement  it 
never,  so  far  as  I  have  seen,  descends  to  personal  abuse.  There 
were  a  number  of  ephemei-al  charivaris,  such  as  cl  grillo,  during 
the^past  summer,  which  gratified  the  taste  of  the  ^LidriUi'iua  for 
wit  and  satire  to  its  full  extent,  but  the  establishod  organs  hold 
themselves  above  tliis  style  of  arguuu'ul.  In  fact,  llie  ]»rin- 
ciples  involved  in  their  contests  are  too  imjiortant  to  be  over- 
lookeil  in  the  mere  scramble  about  men,  and  tlie  i)()inl  of  honor 
is  too  high  to  i)erMiit  those  personalities  alxuit  \W  candidate, 
his  wife  and  children,  grandfather  and  grandmother,  his  nativ- 
ity, the  length  of  his  boily  anil  his  ])urse,  which  form  the  charm 
of  our  dailies  All  such  are  considered  private  matters.  Nor 
would  it  be  consistent  with  Spanish  ideas  of  propriety  for 
George  Washington  Worniu<io(l  to  convert  the  Squash  'fown 
Harbinger  into  a  machine  for  the  ventilation  of  his  personal 
malignity.  The  editors  are  almost  always  gentlemen,  and 
many  of  the  most  distinguished  men  in  Spain  were  connected 
in  youth  with  the  press,  it  being  quite  the  fashion  at  that  day. 
It  does  not  follow,  however,  that  this  system  is  the  best  be- 
cause it  may  be  the  most  gentKiuanly.  The  press  is  a  terrific 
jtower  in  its  verj*  nature,  and  when  it  adds  the  weight  of  ro- 
S])ectability  to  its  already  almost  irresistible  influence  it  as- 
sumes f)roporti()ns  tlial  endanger  the  stability  of  government. 
The  London  Times  is  really  a  fourth  estate,  and  more  potent 


I 


THE    PRKSS.  400 

in  Groat  Britain  than  any  coniinon  ministry.  In  fact,  if  the 
House  of  Lords  were  to  declare  war  against  the  ThuiKh'rer,  as 
tlie  hitter  during  tlic  Crimean  war  once  dared  it  to  do,  the  re- 
sult is  far  from  being  certain.  So  long  as  the  master  of  this 
power  is  right  all  goes  well ;  but  an  editor  is  not  necessarily 
right,  because  he  is  decent  or  honest.  In  France  the  editors 
are  obnoxious  to  punishment  for  publishing  false  news,  Soxonice 
''lying,"  but  what  would  l)ecome  of  the  American  press  if  any 
such  law  were  enforced  with  us? 

Our  system  of  license  is  beneficial  in  one  respect,  since  it 
destroys  tlie  influence  of  the  press  as  a  press.  What  persons 
read  in  the  Times  they  believe,  Avhich  is  far  from  the  universal 
case  in  America.  This  minute  distribution  of  its  influence 
among  small,  if  sometimes  not  respectable  recipients,  is  also 
favorable  to  the  rights  of  minorities,  which  it  is  the  object  of 
constitutional  government  to  protect.  Every  clique  of  a  thou- 
sand voters  can  make  itself  heard  throughout  the  land,  and 
generally  does,  for  the  smaller  the  minority  the  louder  the 
trumpet  blast  which  frightens  the  old  fogj'  organs  into  silence. 
If  these  ends  could  be  attained  consistently  with  a  high  edito- 
rial tone,  of  course  it  would  be  better  for  individuals  and  the 
countr}',  but  then  the  laws  should  be  enforced  more  rigidly  to 
counterbalance  its  power.  In  England  the  jurj' never  hesitates 
to  give  damages  even  to  a  candidate  who  sues  for  a  libel.  Un- 
fortunatel}'  in  America  we  have  too  much  chivalry  to  justify 
such  a  mode  of  seeking  reparation,  3*et  not  enough  to  frown 
down  the  off'ender  who  thus  oversteps  tlie  boundary  of  pro- 
priety and  abuses  his  trust.  But  upon  the  whole  our  plan 
seems  to  be  the  best,  even  if  we  should  have  to  adopt  Franklin's 
idea — unrestricted  libert}''  of  the  press,  together  with  unre- 
stricted liberty  of  tlie  cudgel,  b}'  wa}'  of  constitutional  limita- 
tion, for  thus  ever}*  class  of  societ}',  however  exalted  or  how- 
ever debased,  finds  a  suitable  organ  for  the  exjiression  of  its 
Avants  and  sympathies.  European  statesmen  liave  yet  to  learn 
what  a  safety  valve  tliis  is  in  a  free  government,  or  in  any  gov- 
ernment. An  excitement  commences;  the  partisan  press  takes 
it  up;  things  look  squally;  penny  news]»apers  commence  to 
blow  ;  inflammatory  speeches  are  made  ;  rust}*  muskets  cleaned 
up;  ferocious  meetings  held;  Fourth  of  July  orators  have  to  be 
held  down  by  the  seat  of  their  breeches  lest  they  should  gooff 
into  infinite  space  and  dislocate  the  solar  system.     By  and  by 


410  SPAIN    AND    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

subscribers  begin  to  exclaim  on  opening  the  morning  papor — 
"What  I  tlie  same  oUl  thing  I"  the  water.s  subside  rai)idly;  the 
Jericho  ranis'  liorns  are  put  away  lor  a  more  propitious  occa- 
sion, ami  the  country  is  spared.  Every  few  years  the  samo 
thing  hajqu-ns  again,  with  this  difference,  that  the  blowers  gen- 
erally change  sides  with  the  Uowecs.  As  a  sensible  German 
once  said  to  me:  "In  1849  a  disappointed  Republican  rose  in 
a  bilious  mood,  fit  for  treason  and  revolution,  ready  to  over- 
turn the  Government  in  a  twinkling.  He  read  the  National 
Zcitung  and  found  an  article  abusing  Manteufel  roundly  as  a 
traitor  and  a  despot,  reflecting  his  own  sentiments  exactly. 
Quite  satisfied,  he  went  down  to  his  work  and  thought  no  more 
about  i)olitics  for  the  rest  of  the  da}- ;  now  that  is  all  gone." 
And  it  is  true.  The  top  of  the  pot  is  kept  down  so  tight  in 
Europe  that  sooner  or  later  it  must  burst,  and  then  comes  all 
the  trouble  of  making  a  new  one.  In  Spain  the  pressure  is  by 
no  means  so  great  as  in  some  other  countries,  and  a  very  fair 
share  of  liberty  is  allowed.  To  descend  fron\  the  essential  to 
the  material,  the  paper  and  typography  are  unexceptionable, 
by  far  the  best  in  Europe,  except,  perha])s,  the  Sardinian. 

Spain  has  not  yet  reached  that  height  of  improvement  where 
individual  energy  develops  the  country  without  governmental 
aid.  Nor  do  they  comprehend  our  system  of  building  roads  l)y 
anticipation  out  of  the  future,  relying  for  eventual  paj-ment 
upon  the  ten-fold  increase  of  general  wealth  caused  thereby. 
The  House  of  Austria  did  nothing  whatever  for  the  internal 
communication  between  province  ami  province,  in  a  country 
where,  owing  to  variety  of  climate  and  production,  such  facili- 
ties were  of  all  others  necessaiy.  The  Bourbons,  and  particu- 
larly (y'harles  III,  made  most  of  the  magnificent  caminos  rcalcs, 
which  are  inferior  to  none  in  Europe.  Yet  so  unsatisfactory 
was  the  system  as  a  whole,  that  even  within  a  score  of  j'cars 
the  necessaries  of  life  would  be  at  famine  prices  in  one  locality 
and  not  a  hundred  miles  off  almost  worthless  IVom  want  of  the 
means  of  transportation.  The  Governnuiit  and  tiie  nation 
have  now  become  fully  imi)resscHl  with  the  ui-gency  of  a  com- 
])lete  system,  and  are  carrying  it  out  as  vigorously  as  they  can 
in  a  counti-y  where  coin  is  not  in  superfluity.  The  railroad 
from  JMadrid  to  Alicante  is  finished,  and  branches  will  soon  bo 
extended  to  Valencia  and  Cartagena.  One  is  in  operation  from 
Cadiz  to  Cordova,  by  Seville.     It  is  in  contemi)lation  to  con- 


POLICE.  411 

tinuc  it  to  Madrid  over  the  Sierra  Morena,  but  tliat  will  be  of 
difficult  accomplishment.  The  connexion  between  Madrid  and 
Bayoiine  b}'  Valladolid  and  Burgos  will  soon  be  finished,  and 
that  passing  by  Zaragoza  to  Barcelona  is  in  progress.  A  con- 
nection between  Madrid  and  Lisbon  is  also  to  be  made.  Besides 
these,  there  arc  some  local  roads  and  a  vast  number  of  projects 
in  embr^'O.  Spain  contains  within  herself  everything  requisite 
for  these  works,  except,  perhaps,  the  timber.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  capital  hoarded  away  or  invested  in  foreign 
securities,  but  a  general  want  of  living  confidence  in  the  sta- 
bility of  institutions  and  the  continuitj^  of  progress  prevents 
its  application  to  useful  works.  The  confidence  requisite  for 
that  pui"pose  is  indeed  a  plant  of  slow  growth  and  does  not 
attain  maturity  in  a  daj^,  but  it  is  growing,  and  the  causes  of 
uncertainty  in  the  political  future,  and  the  apathy  of  the  nation 
in  regard  to  civil  commotions,  so  ruinous  to  steady  progress, 
are  disappearing.  The  depreciation  in  the  value  of  gold  coin, 
caused  by  the  late  discoveries,  is  a  boon  to  a  country  so  deeply 
involved  in  debt  as  Spain,  and  will  enable  her  before  long  to 
acquit  herself  of  the  burthen  that  presses  down  her  finances. 
This  weight  removed,  the  natural  consequence  will  be  the  accu- 
mulation of  capital,  and  then  we  may  expect  to  see  the  Penin- 
sula rank,  as  it  once  did,  among  the  most  favored  regions  of  the 
earth.     Nothing  else  is  wanted  to  render  it  such. 

The  Spanish  government,  under  Ferdinand  YIl.,  scarcely 
deserved  the  name  of  a  government,  if  the  attainment  of  the 
ends  for  which  government  is  established  be  a  criterion,  that  is 
to  sa^',  it  utterly  failed  to  protect  life  or  property  against  such 
as  made  a  determined  effort  to  violate  the  laws.  It  was  merely 
a  political  machine  to  put  down  free  tliought  and  free  speech. 
The  improvement  since  then  has  been  immense,  but  there  is 
still  room.  Great  difficult}'^  was  experienced  in  introducing 
the  requisite  reforms.  The  whole  sj'stem  of  police  is  entirely 
against  the  national  prejudices  ;  and  much  ridicule  was  at  first 
made  of  the  institution.  The  functionaries  were  nick-named 
"  hijoa  dc  Luis  Felipe,"  being  an  importation  from  France,  but 
the  nation  has  become  reconciled  to  them  by  conviction  of 
their  necessity.  The  country  police  is,  without  exception,  the 
finest  and  most  respectable  body  of  police  I  have  ever  met  in 
Europe.  Physically  strong  an<l  enduring  as  all  Spaniards  are. 
they  have  not  yet  been  so  long  indulged  with  the  luxury  of 


412  SPAIN    AMI    TIIK    SI'AMAUnS. 

arbitrary  power  as  to  cultivate  a  spirit  of  insolence  and  t\  ranu}-. 
which  is  lic^inninj^  to  he  dreadfully  conipljiincd  of  in  France. 
But  a  considerable  purlion  of  Aii(hilusia,  in  particuhir,  is  too 
sparsely  settled  to  enable  them  to  afford  protection  against  all 
evil-doers,  and  nobody  in  Europe  considers  himself  as  belong- 
ing to  the  j)olice,  or  interested  actively  in  the  jireservation  of 
order,  except  such  as  are  enrolled  and  paid.  During  the  past 
summer,  that  province  rang  with  complaints  of  violence  com- 
niilled  not  upon  travellers  and  diligences,  but  upon  respectable 
persons,  who  were  seized  and  concealed  until  a  certain  amount 
should  be  paid  as  a  ransom.  It  was  alwaj's  famous  lor  such 
misdeeds.  There  arc  no  means  of  extirpating  the  evil,  but  the 
devcl()j)ment  of  the  country  itself  and  the  education  of  the 
common  people,  which  will  cause  them  to  regard  these  acts  in 
their  true  light,  rather  than  as  a  species  of  adventure  excus- 
able if  successful.  Indeed,  the  present  generation  in  certain 
parts  of  tlie  mountains  were  so  wholly  inured  to  a  life  of  vio- 
lence in  their  youth,  that  there  seems  to  be  but  little  hope  of 
reforiuiug  them,  and  it  is  only  left  to  imitate  the  example  of 
Moses  in  patiently'  awaiting  their  extinction.  The  next  gener- 
ation may  ])r(jve  more  jiiiable. 

For  such  as  do  not  quarrel,  life  is  now  al)Out  as  safe  in  Sj)ain 
as  elsewhere,  at  least  as  safe  as  it  is  in  America,  but  harsh 
words  are  a  dangerous  luxury,  and  are  apt  to  be  followed 
by  something  more  sei-ious.  Sjianiards  do  not  understand 
the  art  of  angr}-  talking.  After  a  certain  i)oint  it  is  the 
knife  and  nothing  but  the  knife.  The  revolver  the}'  do  not 
fancy,  because  the}'  are  not  used  to  it,  but  with  an  Albacetc 
they  are  at  home.  There  is  a  defect  in  the  national  character 
in  this  respect.  On  serious  matters  they  cannot  agree  to  dis- 
gree,  that  is  they  cannot  talk  about  it.  A  Spanish  gcMtleman 
once  accounting  to  a  friend  of  iiiiiic  lor  the  fact  thai  ihr  Jury 
system  had  never  been  tried  in  Si)ain,  exi)laincd  it  by  saying 
that  if  twelve  of  his  countrymen  were  sluit  uj)  in  a  room  to  dis- 
cuss a  given  subject,  only  one  would  come  out  alive,  and  there 
is  some  truth  in  the  ex])lanation.  The  duel  is  fre(piently  ap- 
pealed to  by  gentlemen  to  settle  points  of  honor,  for,  like  our- 
selves, they  are  ver}' sensitive  to  liard  epithets,  which  lie:il 
more  slowly  than  wounds. 

Una  hcrida  mcjor 

Se  Sana  quo  una  pulabru; 


POLITICAL    WANTS.  413 

or,  as  the  old  maxim  lias  it,  '' heridas  sanan  pero  no  malas 
2)al((/iras."  The  parties  arc  avoH  criticised  bj^  their  circle  of 
acquaintances,  unless  everythini>;  be  conducted  strictly  accord- 
ing to  the  old  chivalric  rules.  The  challenger  ot  course  chooses 
the  terms,  as  they  have  not  yet  l)een  able  to  understand  the 
right  of  the  ofl^'ender  to  entrench  himself  l)ehind  a  favorite 
■\vea]ion.  Not  onl}-  the  contest  itself,  but  the  subsequent  inter- 
course of  the  parties  is  upon  the  same  high  tone,  and  I  have 
heard  great  sti'css  laid  upon  a  certain  distinguished  gentleman's 
neglecting  or  refusing  to  inquire  after  his  opponent's  health. 
The  abominable  American  habit  of  converting  the  scene  of  the 
tragedy  into  a  cock-pit,  and  of  publishing  a  long  correspond- 
ence, Avherein  the  parties  or  their  friends  try  to  get  the 
advantage  b}'  technicalities,  is  quite  unknown.  The  pen  is 
hardly  resorted  to  at  all  on  ordinary  occasions,  in  accordance 
with  the  feudal  state  of  society,  in  which  a  man  might  be  a 
gentleman  of  rank,  and  entitled  to  satisfaction,  although  ho 
conld  not  write  well  enough  to  demand  it,  chirography  being 
considered  an  accomplishment  of  clerks,  not  of  warriors. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  duelling  is  a  relic  of  barbarism, 
and  should  be  abolished,  but  so  should  the  causes  which  furnish 
occasion  for  it,  or  else  enlightened  pnblic  opinion  should  afford 
some  satisfaction  for  the  insults  which  now  di-ive  gentlemen  to 
this  antiquated  and  absurd  remedy. 

There  is  another  ])assion  which  leads  to  much  bloodshed  in 
Spain — jealousy.  There  can  be  in  the  nature  of  things  but  one 
way  of  settling  such  a  diiticulty.  As  a  theologian,  and  a  fol- 
lower of  the  precept  which  bids  the  suiferer  to  turn  the  other 
cheek,  the  traveller  may  condemn  them,  certainh*  not  as  a 
human  being. 

In  one  particular  the  Spaniards  are  in  advance  of  us,  viz.,  in 
adopting  the  decimal  system  of  weights  and  measures.  It  is 
outrageous  that  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  the 
United  States  of  America,  claiming,  with  some  justice,  to  be 
the  most  enlightened  nation  in  the  world,  should  be  still  strug- 
gling with  the  confusion  of  tro}',  penny  and  avoirdupois  weights, 
not  to  speak  of  rods,  ])erches  and  barleycorns. 

Upon  the  whole  the  thing  most  needed  in  Spain  is  a  minis- 
try, virtuous  enough  to  distribute  its  official  patronage,  even  if 
among  their  partisans,  yd  according  to  inerit  and  capacity,  and 
strong  enough  to  be  able  to  do  so  without  fear.     Napoleon  I 


414  SPAIN    AM)    THK    SPANIARDS. 

is  entitled  to  the  credit  <»!'  liaviiij^  introduced  the  system  into 
France,  impelled,  perhaps,  by  the  necessity  of  his  position.  If 
the  Sj)jinish  CJovfrnnient  copied  this  feature  of  the  Na])oleonic 
policy,  tlu'v  would  give  more  satisfaction  to  true  patriots  tlian 
they  have  yet  succeeded  in  doing.  One  day  the  conversation 
happened  to  turn  upon  the  mismanagement  of  the  royal  prop- 
erty, hy  which  the  (^ucen  was  wofully  cheated.  A  Frenchman 
present  exjiressed  his  indignation,  saying  that  if  hv  wtre  in 
authority  he  would  reform  such  abuses  immediately.  A  Cata- 
lonian  replied  to  his  indignation  by  a  signiticant  gesture,  to  the 
effect  that  the  Camerilhi,  standing  ujioii  jjroscripiion.  would 
prove  more  than  a  match  for  any  oliicer,  however  right  he 
might  be,  and  such  would  undoubtedly  bo  the  case.  No  deci- 
dedly reform  ministry  could  hold  its  own  in  the  prosoiit  con- 
dition of  aftairs.  But  there  is.  after  all.  a  vast  ditforence  in  this 
respect  between  a  militar}-  despot,  relying  soKly  upon  ener- 
getic and  ca])able  subordinates  for  the  soli<lity  and  stability  of 
his  authority,  and  a  constitutional  chief,  shaken  by  every  breath 
of  public  opinion.  And  tiieii,  ])ei-liai>s,  Amci-iea  may  not  be 
the  most  suitable  place  whence  to  cast  the  stone  of  condemna- 
tion. 


Chapter  XXIV. 
POLITICAL. 

Our  Troubles  witb  Spain — Anglo-Saxonii5tii — Entente  Cordiulr  Directed  Against  us 
l\V  England — Filibusters — Spanish  Political  Desires — Means  of  Ac(|uiring  Cuba 
Honorably  —  Standing  of  Americans  in  Europe  —  Influence  of  our  Diplomatic 
Corps — Our  Position  in  Spain — Ailios. 

There  is  no  earthly  reason  Avh}-  Spain  and  the  United  States 
of  America  sliould  not  be  tlic  best  friends  in  the  worhl.  With 
manj'  differences,  there  is  yet  a  striking  resemblance  in  the 
better  points  of  character,  to  some  of  which  I  have  made 
passing  allusions  in  the  preceding  pages.  Our  commercial 
interests  do  not  clash,  there  is  no  legitimate  occasion  for  rivalry 
between  us,  and  when  we  stood  most  in  need  of  a  friend  she 
Avas  by  our  side  to  aid  us.  Our  most  gifted  authors  have  found 
her  history  a  congenial  field  for  the  exercise  of  their  talents. 
Yet  somehow  all  this  seems  to  be  overlooked,  and  politicians 
and  newspapers  speak  as  though  we  were  natural  enemies. 
The  rise  of  this  spirit  seems  to  have  been  simultaneous  with 
that  of  Anglo-Saxonism.  No  longer  feeling  the  honorable  pride 
of  independent  nationality  to  which  avc  are  most  justly  enti- 
tled, there  has  sprung  up  a  class,  proclaiming  that  we  arc  onl}- 
an  offshoot  of  the  Atiglo-Saxons.  and  that  the  devolution  cut 
no  cord  but  the  umbilical.  There  is,  doubtless,  a  sufficiency  of 
Anglo-Saxon  blood  in  America;  but  there  is  probably  a  still 
greater  amount  of  Celtic  and  Teutonic.  We  speak,  too,  their 
language;  and  a  very  poor  one  it  is,  fit  for  serpents  only.  We 
derive  from  them  the  feudal  institution  of  trial  by  our  peers, 
which  continental  nations,  owing  to  their  necessity  for  standing 
armies,  have  not  been  able  to  retain.  Beyond  this  there  is  little 
to  remind  us  of  the  former  dominion  exercised  by  the  Knglish 
over  the  American  Continent.  Almost  every  State  in  the 
Union   has   in   substance   rejected    her   laws,  and    substituted 


416  SPAIN    AM)    TlIK    STAMAUDS. 

tlic  fivil  tlierefor.  Wo  Iwivo  a(li»|ttcMl  the  French  military  sys- 
tem, witli  scarecl}*  a  variation.  With  tite  Germans,  wc  sympa- 
thize in  the  freechim  of  intellect  and  the  inquiring  spirit  that 
characterize  the  race.  We  have  developed  a  liherty  purely  our 
own,  wiiich  England  has  timidly  cojmd.  Wc  have  tau^^ht  her 
the  folly  and  ci-uelty  of  those  ferocious  laws  which  annually 
covered  her  island  with  gihhets — that  men,  as  men,  have  some 
rights,  even  though  they  l)e  not  equal  in  worldly  position.  We 
liave  taught  her  how  to  clear  the  wilderness  ot  Australia;  how 
to  educate  her  ignorant  suhjects  at  home.  Finally,  we  have  sot 
the  example  of  so  elevating  the  lahoring  classes,  that  no  one  in 
America  must  be  vicious  or  degraded  because  of  his  rank  in  the 
social  scale;  that  all,  even  the  poorest,  feci  an  interest  in  the 
preservtition  of  order  and  the  well  being  of  society,  ami  we 
have  thus  rendered  the  phrase  '^bas peiiplc"  inapplicable  to  any 
honest  portion  of  our  population.  And  yet  we  are  told  that  wo 
liave  done  nothing,  that  this  is  the  legitimate  and  inevitable 
fruit  of  Anglo-Saxonism  which  we  have  only  ileveloped.  If 
such  talk  \vcre  mere  sonlimentality  no  one  would  care.  But 
the  unfortunate  effect,  in  the  eyes  of  the  world,  is  to  abnegate 
our  proud  position  as  a  new  nation,  7'ccei\'ing  and  assimilating 
the  eiiei'getic  spirits  from  every  country  in  l%ur(ij)e.  and  mould- 
ing them  all  into  gigantic  proportions  for  the  secomlary  one  of 
a  memlier  ol"  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  of  which  Knglaml  is  tho 
head,  and  our  respected  selves  the  tail.  ''An  two  men  ride  of 
a  horsi',  one  must  ride  behind."  It  does  not  follow,  though, 
that  the  latter  position  is  to  be  coveted.  Nor  can  I  imagine 
why  we  shoukl  mount  the  same  animal  at  all. 

All  this  talk  is  beginning  to  make  the  Europeans  believe  that 
wo  consider  ourselves  under  some  obligations  to  sympathize 
with  and  sustain  Anglo-Saxonism,  the  real  truth  being  that 
there  is  a  far  greater  symi)a(hy  between  tho  French  and  us, 
than  between  their  neighbors  and  us.  Wo  are  essentially'  demo- 
cratic; they  abhor  and  detest  tlu'  idea.  The  most  miserable 
creature  in  England  would  spui-n  libiTty  if  accompanied  by 
equality;  foi-  he  thinks  there  must  be  some  poor  devil,  m(»ro 
mist'rable  than  himself,  over  whonv  he  can  tyi'anniso.  Wo 
acknowledge  and  are  in  favor  of  secui'ing  to  every  one  his  just 
rights  in  the  political  system;  whereas,  exactly  the  contrary 
holds  in  the  Anglo-Saxon,  who  lollows  the  old  parable  of  giving 
to  him  that  hath,  and  taking  from  him  that  hath  not,  even  that 


ANOLO-SAXONISM.  417 

which  he  hath.  The  universal  tendency  is  to  yield  po^Yerto 
those  above,  and  to  keep  the  loAver  class  pressed  to  the  earth. 
I  therefore  see  little  to  justify  the  attempt  of  Mr.  Bri-^ht  to 
transplant  our  institutions  into  England.  lie  forgets  that  the 
Americans — it  is  useless  to  investigate  the  causes  why — arc  a 
race  of  a  higher  and  more  delicate  organization,  and  can  be 
entrusted  with  liberty  because  they  can  appreciate  it.  The 
common  Englishman  would  only  covet  the  privilege  of  suffrage 
in  order  that  he  might  sell  his  vote  at  its  market  value.  He 
needs  a  sort  of  master,  and  delights  in  having  one.  Universal 
suffrage  in  England,  with  due  submission,  seems  to  me  the  cra- 
ziest idea  that  ever  entered  into  the  brain  of  a  statesman.  But 
Mr.  Bright  has  a  meagre  following,  for  the  English  people 
know  themselves  too  well  to  indulge  in  such  a  Eutopian  experi- 
ment. Not  content  with  this,  they  kindly  volunteer  to  lecture 
us  upon  the  ei'rors  of  our  system  of  society, — for  it  is  a  differ- 
ence of  society  as  well  as  of  government, — and  pronounce  re- 
publicanism a  failure  because  we  prefer  to  confine  government 
Avithin  the  strictest  limits  necessarj'  for  the  objects  of  its  insti- 
tution, and  perhaps  find  King  Log  more  suitable  for  the 
purpose  than  King  Stork.  Even  Mr.  Macaulay  has  favored  us 
with  a  "preachment,"  which  is  founded  upon  such  a  strange 
confusion  as  to  seem  to  belie  the  a|Dhorism  that  history-  is  Avisdom 
teaching  by  experience,  and  that  its  votaries  should  consequent- 
ly be  the  Avisest  of  statesmen.  England  is  a  conglomeration  of 
monopolies.  The  land  is  a  monopoly  of  a  few  thousands;  the 
Government  of  a  few  hundreds.  The  whole  number  of  capital- 
ists does  not  exceed  a  few  millions.  All  below  is  a  toiling, 
ignorant,  vicious,  discontented  multitude,  who  know  not  one 
week  where  they  will  find  bread  for  the  next.  Such  is  their 
system,  and  were  America  like  England,  Mr.  Macaulay  would 
be  justifiable  in  supposing  the  cause  of  repuhlicanisni  hopeless. 
But  what  class  in  America  cnjoj's  a  monopoly  of  the  pleasures 
of  life  ?  Is  not  every  avenue  open  to  the  most  unfriended 
capacity  ?  Do  not  all  receive  the  benefits  of  education  ?  Can 
not,  and  have  not,  the  poorest  boys  occupied  the  chair  of  tho 
Presidency  ?  Have  our  great  statesmen,  our  millionaires,  been, 
for  the  most  part,  the  children  of  even  com])etency  ?  Owing  to 
the  equality  which  reigns  throughout  our  ideas  and  institutions, 
is  it  not  in  the  power  of  every  honest  laborer,  and  do  not  the 
vast  majorit}',  lay  up  a  provision  against  the  contingencies  of 
28 


418  SPAIN    AND    THE    SPANIARDS. 

old  ii'^Q?  Whence,  tlien,  is  to  come  this  arinv  of  i^rini.  ilespair- 
in;^,  famished  workmen,  who,  having  nothing,  liojiing  nothing, 
without  past  or  future,  are  to  wage  an  eternal  warfare  against 
the  order  of  society  ?  Is  there,  then,  no  middle  gnjund  between 
a  savorless  communism  and  the  despotism  of  capital  i*  Are 
there  no  checks  and  balances  in  nature?  Do  freedom,  equality, 
education,  an  honorable  inculcation  of  industry  eflFect  nothing? 
It  is  provoking  to  hear  such  solemn  inconsequences  from  a 
really  great  man. 

The  disposition,  too,  to  place  a  money  value  ujion  everything, 
the  i*eal  cause  of  their  difficulties,  is  peculiar  to  the  Anglo-Sax- 
ons, and  an  anomaly  in  the  present  age  of  the  world.  In 
the  military  profession,  where,  of  all  others,  individual  nferit 
should  be  the  sole  passport  to  distinction,  commissions  are  still 
bought  and  sold.  Throughout  the  countr}'  money  is  inji)era- 
tivel}'  required  for  every  position  of  eminence.  The  records 
of  the  House  of  Lords  contain  {\\v  strange  case  of  a  duke  who 
was  expelled  for  no  other  crime  ti»an  his  jtoverty.  Men  of  the 
first  abilities  are  deterred  from  accejtting  the  peerage,  because 
they  have  not  amassed  money  enough  to  sivve  them  from  the 
humiliating  and  disgraceful  position  of  a  i>oor  gentleman.  We 
Americans  like  money,  not  because  it  is  money,  or  because  it 
brings  position  or  respect,  but  because  it  gratifies  bodily  de- 
sires. It  wouUl  bo  thouitht  an  astonishinij  thine:  with  us  if 
the  presidential  electors  were  to  inspect  the  pockets  of  the 
candidate  rather  than  his  head  and  his  heart ;  or  if,  in  1S48, 
Mr.  Cass  had  been  recommended  on  account  of  his  wealth,  or 
General  Taylor  had  sold  out  his  commission — things  perfectly 
consonant  with  Anglo-Saxon  ideas.  Yet  the  greatness  of  Kng- 
lan<l  is  due  in  considerable  jtart  to  this  very  state  of  affairs, 
and  any  attempt  to  alter  it  may  involve  the  downfall  of  her 
power.  Tiie  natural  rulers  are  the  aristoci-acy,  and  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  gentleman  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  (jualified  ])ersons 
in  Europe  to  govern  Anglo-Saxons,  but  all  below  bear  the 
impress  of  an  inferior  class,  a  strange  combination  of  servility 
with  tyranny.  That  there  should  be  any  real  sym))athy  be- 
tween the  great  body  of  the  two  nations  is  as  little  to  be 
desired  as  expected. 

]Iavii\g  thus  spoken  of  the  want  of  sympathy  between  us  in 
the  weaker  points  of  character,  justice  requires  me  to  confess 
that  there  is  an  equal  absence  of  resemblance  in  the  virtues. 


ANGLO-SAXONISM.  419 

The  Englishman  certainly  docs  possess  bull-dog  courage.  His 
officers  may  bo  ignorant  of  the  science  of  war,  but  he,  never- 
theless, fights  to  the  last,  nor  is  he  subject  either  to  the  exhila- 
ration of  success  or  the  depression  of  defeat.  He  is  conserva- 
tive by  nature,  and  al)hor8  liunibugs  and  hunil)uggery.  The 
middle  classes,  and  particularly-  the  country  gentlemen,  are 
worth}'  of  their  position.  The  men  of  this  rank  are  true  and 
the  wonien  virtuous.  Keserved  in  intercoui'se  and  unamiablc 
toward  their  own  countrj^men,  they  seem  to  be  courteous  to 
foreigners  and  even  to  each  other  when  the  social  barrier  is 
broken  through;  but  they  do  not  compose  the  nation.  In  dis- 
cussing national  relations  it  is  not  the  merits  and  demerits  of 
cue  class  alone  that  are  to  be  considered,  but  the  bearing  of 
the  whole. 

The  increase  of  steam  and  financial  communication,  and  the 
little  leaven  of  Anglo-Saxonism  unfortunately  left  among  us. 
has  of  late  3-ears  caused  many  Americans  to  look  up  to  Eng- 
land as  the  mother  country,  according  to  the  phrase.  Though, 
perhaps,  not  one  in  ten  of  those  who  use  the  expression  so  fre- 
quently has  an}-  great  amount  of  the  much  prized  fluid  in  his 
veins.  The  manner  in  Avhich  the  homage  is  received  bej'ond 
the  water  depends  vcr}-  much  njion  tlio  state  of  relations  with 
France.  As  the  one  goes  up,  the  other  goes  down.  The  differ- 
ence between  the  conduct  of  the  English  toward  America 
now,  and  what  it  was  in  1850,  is  astonishing.  Then  Fi-ancc 
was  torn  internally,  scarcely  able  to  maintain  domestic  tran- 
quilit}',  and  powerless  for  any  offensive  action.  Europe  was 
just  beginning  to  stagger  weakly  along,  as  if  from  a  bed  of 
sickness.  England  and  Russia  alone,  of  the  great  powers,  had 
stood  the  storm  unbent.  Under  this  state  of  things  America 
was  a  presumptuous  3'oungster,  to  be  snubbed  upon  every 
opportune  occasion.  Tlie  Yankees  (as  the}'  persist  in  calling 
the  whole  nation)  were  described  to  Europe  as  lank,  nasal- 
twanging  barl)arian8,  very  good  for  accumulating  money  and 
manufacturing  wooden  nutmegs,  but  worthy  only  of  a  place  in 
the  kitchen  of  the  civilized  world.  The  Brusselled  parlor  of 
Christendom  was  not  to  be  defiled  Avith  their  presence.  The 
ncAvspapcrs  never  wearied  of  ringing  the  changes  upon  Ameri- 
can short-comings.  Our  self-government  and  liberty  were  held 
up  as  empty  bubbles  on  the  point  of  bursting.  The  plain  and 
unflattering  truth  being  that  the  English  have  a  profound  con- 


420  SPAIN    AM)    TllK    yPANlAUUS. 

tempt  for  us,  and  it  is  iinpossilik-  to  bluiuo  them  for  it,  wlion 
wc  remember  tlie  servility  and  ultor  abnegation  of  manhood 
that  characterize  so  many  of  us  in  tlie  presence  of  a  live  lord. 
They  have  cagei'iy  einl)raced  ever}'  opportunity  of  kicking  and 
cuffing  us,  yet  we  whine  at  their  lect.  JIow  could  they  do 
otherwise  than  dosj)ise  \is  ?  Since  that  lime,  however,  certain 
changes  liave  taken  place  in  the  world.  The  distracted  French 
republic  lias  given  way  to  a  powerfully  organized  empire,  with 
a  chief  capable  of  planning,  and  an  army  and  navy  capable  of 
executing  any  enterprize,  however  gigantic.  The  first  warn- 
ing given  of  this  change  was  in  1851,  on  the  Greek  question, 
when  the  President  of  the  French  republic  checked  Lonl  Pal- 
raerston.  and  gave  England  to  understand  that  her  course  of 
pi'occeding  in  foreign  domineering  must  be  altered,  or  a  war 
with  France  would  follow  in  a  fortnight.  We  all  remember  the 
salutary  effect  of  that  warning,  and  Falmerston's  capital  "  bot- 
tle-holding" s])eech.  The  doctrine  of  a  balance  of  power  ujjon 
the  ocean  as  well  as  the  land  has  been  again  spoken  of  in  high 
}»lace>.  The  ghost  of  Waterloo,  from  being  a  source  of  unmin- 
gled  pride  and  gi-atification  and  boasting,  has  come  to  cause  as 
many  terrors  as  that  of  Banquo.  An  unexpected  consequence 
has  been  that  the  manner  of  speaking  of  America  has  altered 
ai)acc.  It  is  "our  cousins  be3'ond  the  water"  and  "Brother 
Jonathan."  An  American  is  appealed  to  whether  wc  will  allow 
the  "  mother  country"  to  be  crushed,  the  "  Protestant  religion 
to  be  destroyed,"  etc.  All  this  has  happened  before,  and  if  the 
government  of  Louis  Napoleon  were  supplanted  by  a  weak 
monarchy,  the  ])resent  good  feeling  of  our  "dear  cousins" 
would  disappear  as  rapidly  as  their  fears.  In  truth,  opposition 
to  the  advancement  of  the  United  States,  whether  materiallj'' 
or  intellectually,  is  the  normal  condition  of  England.  We  have 
suffered  from  it  ever  since  the  foundation  of  our  Government, 
and  will  continue  to  do  so,  except  when  the  fear  of  invasion 
causes  a  temporary  change  in  her  policy,  for  selfishness,  an 
utter,  unholy  and  inconceivable  desire  to  sacrifice  the  happiness 
and  prosperity  of  every  other  country-  to  their  own  even  most 
trifling  advantage  is  their  invariable  rule  of  action.  They 
quarrel  among  themselves  about  the  length  of  a  bishop's  gown, 
or  the  cut  of  a  guardsman's  hat,  or  great  constitutional  ques- 
tions, but  there  is  never  a  difference  of  action  on  this  point ; 
and  any  statesman  who  dared  to  raise  a  voice  in  behalf  of  jus- 


THE    ENTENTE    CORDIAEE.  421 

ticc  and  honor  in  foreign  relations  could  not  be  retiiriied  from 
a  single  constituenc}'  in  England.  AVitness  poor  Bright  and 
Cobden  in  the  Chinese  war.  Woe  to  any  nation  tlial  trust.s 
her  friendship  ! 

There  can  be  very  little  doubt  that  one  great  object  of  the 
British  rrovernment  in  forniiug  the  entente  eordiale,  was  the 
regulation  of  atfairs  in  the  western  asAvell  as  the  eastern  world. 
Tvord  Clarendon  w:is  awkward  enough  to  betray  this  in  18.34. 
They  have  fallen  finely  into  their  own  trap.  I  was  told,  upon 
good  authority,  in  Madrid,  that  Louis  Napoleon,  conversing 
with  an  English  friend  before  1848,  remarked  that,  in  pursuance 
of  his  destiny,  he  would  some  day  be  Emperor  of  France.  "In 
that  event,"  says  the  Englishman,  "you  Avill,  I  hope,  be  on 
good  terms  with  England."  "Certainly,"  replied  Napoleon,  "I 
will  make  an  alliance  with  I<higland."  Subsequently,  in  the 
course  of  the  conversation,  he  continued:  "There  will  .soon  be 
but  two  nations  in  Europe — France  and  Russia."  "But  how 
do  you  reconcile  that  with  what  you  have  just  said  about  the 
alliance?"  "It  is  by  means  of  that  very  alliance  that  I  will 
reduce  England  to  the  second  rank,"  replied  the  fai'-seeing 
statcsjnan.  If  this  be  true,  the  i^lan  has  certainly'  succeeded  to 
admiration.  Every  year  he  has  imposed  new  humiliations 
upon  his  all}',  Avhile  remaining  punciillioush'  faithful  to  the 
bond.  The  Crimea  destroyed  its  military  rei)uta(ion.  The  af- 
faii"  of  the  "Charles  et  George"  showed  what  reliance  could  be 
placed  upon  its  friendship,  and  the  Italian  war  has  been  a  grave 
for  what  remained  of  its  diplomatic  prestige.  Even  the  sar- 
castic letter  to  the  famous  Liverpool  bi'okers,  was  not  without 
its  effect.  Yet  the  conduct  of  Napoleon  has  been  unexception- 
able. He  sought  her  co-operation  in  Itah*,  which  was  con- 
temptuously rejected.  lie  subsequontlj'  offered  her  an  ojipor- 
tunity  of  participating  in  the  peace,  which  was  declined.  He 
agreed  to  co-operate  with  her  in  Central  America;  but  1  am  far 
from  supposing  that  he  could  be  seduced  into  an  active  o]»po.si- 
tion  to  us,  unless  we  attempted  to  monopolize  all  the  Isthmus 
routes.  England  feels  that  her  greatness  i.s  fast  being  over- 
shadowed by  the  gi'owing  P^mpire  of  Russia  on  the  one  side, 
and  the  growing  Repulilic  of  America  on  the  other,  and 
clutches  at  ever}'  straw  which  ma}'  save  her,  as  slie  neems  to 
think  there  is  not  room  in  the  world  for  herself  and  any  one 
else.     In  this  position  of  alfiiirs,  it  seems  to  be  the  true  policy 


422  SPAIN"  AM»  Tin:  Spaniards. 

of  the  United  States  to  iiiaintali)  steadily  the  Monroe  doctrine, 
not  as  it  was  first  intended,  but  as  it  has  been  subsequently 
interpreted.  That  Kn<fland  can  be  persuaded  by  peaceable 
means  to  cease  intermeddling  with  the  American  continent  is 
not  to  be  supposed,  and  in  case  Napoleon  is  overthrown,  it  is 
possiMc  her  influence  over  the  succeeding  dynasty  will  be  so 
great  as  to  revive  into  existence  the  one-legged  entente  cordiale, 
and  then  no  bounds  could  be  set  to  her  pride,  so  that  sooner 
or  later  force  must  be  employed.  The  only  other  European 
power  which  exerts  a  perceptible  influence  on  North  America 
is  .S]iain,  and  this  brings  me  again  to  the  beginning  of  the 
chajiter. 

The  public  sentiment  in  Sj)ain  was  outraged  in  the  highest 
degree  by  the  successive  invasions  of  the  I.sland  of  Cuba,  and 
the  destruction  of  the  Consul's  house  b^-  the  mob  in  New  Or- 
leans. I  was  told  in  the  winter  of  1851-'52,  that  upon  the  re- 
ception of  this  latter  piece  of  news  it  was  proposed  in  Madrid 
to  reciprocate  violence  by  mobbing  the  resitlence  of  our  ^linis- 
ter,  which  probably  would  have  been  attempted  had  it  not  been 
for  the  universal  and  well-deserved  poi)ularity  that  ^fr.  Barrin- 
ger  enjoyed.  We  cannot  deny  that  the  Spaniards  were  per- 
fectly justifiable  in  tlicii-  indignation.  Ami  if  we  judge  them 
Vjy  ourselves,  they  might  have  demanded,  with  arn»s  in  their 
hands,  indemnity  for  the  jiast  and  security  for  the  future.  But 
the  nation  became  still  mure  iiKlignant  at  theofli'r  to  jjurcliase. 
The  other  was  a  mere  exhibition  of  popular  ])hrensy;  this  a 
deliberate  insult  by  the  (lovennncnl.  Castillian  honor  was 
touched  to  the  quick  at  the  insinuation  tliat  Spain  would  part 
with  her  territory  for  money,  and  the  fact  that  such  an  idea 
was  seriously  entertained  b}'  our  (Jovernment  at  all  betrays  a 
lamentable  ignorance  of  the  real  character  ot  the  Spaniard.  I 
have  never  seen  one  of  any  ranlc  who  did  not  express  himself 
in  the  strongest  language  upon  this  indignity'.  That  money 
would  be  of  great  use  in  fui-thering  an}'  necessary  intrigues  is 
unquestionable,  and  had  the  negotiations  with  the  Sartorius 
Ministry  and  Queen  Christina  been  skilfull}'  conducted,  the  de- 
sired end  might  have  been  attained.  F(;r  there  is  little  doubt 
that  these  parties  would  have  l)etrayed  the  country  willingly, 
nay  eagerly,  for  a  few  millions  jjrivately  transferred.  The  re- 
volution of  1854  restored  the  liberal  party  to  power,  and  no 
liberal  party  in  any  country  can  venture  to  make  the  national 


SPANISH    FEELINO    TOWARD    FRANCE    AND    ENGLAND.         423 

tcrritoiy  a  matter  of  barg-ain  and  s:ilc.  The  first  motion  of  the 
Conslitutionul  Cortes  was  one  adopted  unanimously  against 
the  transfer  upon  any  conditions.  So  long,  tliereforc,  as  at- 
tempts are  made  to  take  the  island  h}-  force,  or  to  threaten  the 
pui'chase  of  it  witli  money,  we  ma}-  count  upon  the  determined 
opposition  of  the  Spanish  government  and  the  Spanish  nation. 
But  the  Spaniards  themselves  are  becoming  i*apidly  convinced 
that  tlie  age  for  colonies  has  passed  away.  Cuba  is  fertile,  and 
pi'oduces  a  large  revenue,  but  the  expense  of  administration  is 
very  great.  Its  proximity  to  our  coast  entails  the  necessity  of 
a  large  garrison,  composed  of  the  best  troops  in  the  army,  at 
an  increased  rate  of  pay.  Then  there  is  a  host  of  other  func- 
tionaries to  be  supported,  and  they  niust  either  be  paid  enor- 
mously or  allowed  to  peculate  upon  the  revenue,  generally 
both.  Under  the  present  restrictive  system,  Cuba  is  of  some 
value  as  a  market  for  the  Northern  provinces,  but  this  cannot 
continue  long,  for  the  whole  policy  of  commercial  restrictions 
is  against  the  spirit  of  the  age,  and  must  eventuall}"  disappear, 
when  no  reason  of  opposition  will  be  left  except  national  pride. 
If  then,  the  Island  is  to  be  acquired  with  the  consent  of  Spain 
(and  no  other  method  would  be  consistent  with  our  national 
honor),  some  means  must  be  suggested  of  soothing  the  Castillian 
pride.  Several  times  have  gentlemen  suggested  to  me  this 
summer  a  plan,  which  would,  it  is  true,  involve  us  jierhaps  in  a 
war,  l)ut  it  would  be  a  war  with  a  great  power,  in  Avhich  glory 
might  be  gained,  and  not  in  pitiful  filibustering,  as  bai-ren  of 
tangible  advantages  as  it  is  of  honor. 

During  the  days  of  its  weakness  aiul  internal  distraction,  Spain 
has  been  compelled  alternately  to  seek  the  aid  of  France  and 
England,  and  not  unfrequently  each  of  its  two  parties  had,  at 
the  same  time,  enlisted  respective!}'  the  moral  aid  of  one  of 
these  nations.  They  have  no  reason  for  loving  either.  In  earlier 
times  their  coasts  Avere  ravaged  b}-  pirates,  such  as  Drake, 
whose  rule  was  fire  and  slaughter.  The  present  century  com- 
menced with  the  invasion  of  the  country  b}'  Xapoleon,  probably 
the  most  shameful  outrage  that  was  ever  per])etrated,  inas- 
much as  it  was  a  persistent  attem])t  for  five  years,  first  lo  con- 
quer, and  that  failing,  to  ravage  and  dcstroj'  an  unoffending 
nation.  The  English  lande*!  an  army  ostensibly  to  sustain 
the  Si)aniards,  but,  in  truth,  to  fight  their  own  battles,  and  the 
outrages  committed   l)y  tiiem  were  unsurpassed  save  by  those. 


4_'4  SPAIN    AND    TUP.    SPANIARDS. 

of  the  French.  Speak  to  a  real  Spaniard  of  the  saekini;  of  Ciii- 
did  Kotirigo,  of  Badajos,  of  St.  Scha^<tiaIl,  and  as.  with  tlashinu: 
eyes,  he  details  the  loul  deeds  of  his  pretended  allies,  you  will 
sec  what  sympathy  he  has  for  England.  The  Freneh  demol- 
ished fortresses  lest  they  should  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Kng- 
lish.  and  the  English  the  same  lest  they  should  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  Freneh,  so  that  hetween  the  two  Si)ain  was  left  a 
mass  ol'ruins.  The  fortifications  hefore  Cihraltar  are  an  amus- 
ing instance  of  the  latter.  Anterior  to  the  War  of  Independ- 
ence, the  Spanish  had  erected  lines  in  front  of  the  Kock  of  Gib- 
raltar. One  fine  morning  the  British,  pretending  great  apjire- 
hcnsion  from  the  French,  sallied  forth  and  hlew  them  up. 
After  the  war  was  over,  the  Spaniards  were  naturally  dis])osed 
to  restore  things  to  their  original  condition,  when,  to  their 
astonishment,  their  dear  allies  received  the  working  party  with 
a  discharge  of  cannon,  and  have  never  since  allowed  the  lines 
to  be  re-constructed.  Several  occurrences  of  this  sort,  together 
with  the  brutality  and  drunkenness  of  the  British  soldiers, 
caused  their  departuie  from  the  soil  of  the  Peninsula  to  be 
longed  ibr  almost  as  much  as  that  of  the  French.  And  yet 
English  books  arc  full  of  the  ingratitude  of  tlie  Spaniards,  and 
claim  the  merit  of  expelling  ^Sajjolcon's  numberless  legions 
entirely  ibr  the  fifty  thousantl  lii-ilish.  In  the  northern  pro- 
vinces, the  Provincias  l>aseongadas,  Navarre,  Aragon  and 
Catalonia,  the  feeling  is  intensified  by  the  remembrance  of  the 
Carlist  War  and  the  (piestion  of  a  protective  tarilV.  Notwith- 
staiuling  all  this,  h^ngland,  even  more  than  France,  has  ]^re- 
sumt'd  upon  the  weakness  of  Spain  to  use  a  dictatorial  tone  in 
diplomatic  intercourse,  not  merely  as  to  external  relations,  but 
even  the  management  of  their  internal  concerns.  The  sum- 
mary ejection  of  Sir  Henry  Bulwer  from  ^ladrid.  in  IS-JS.  was 
a  sliglit  check  upon  theii*  iinpci'iiiu'iuT,  Imt  llic  old  tone  was 
cpiickly  resumed.  Of  late  years  Fi-eneh  inlluence  has  increased, 
and  English  waned  in  j(ro[)ortion.  This  result  is  natural  when 
we  contrast  the  policy  ])ursued  of  late  by  the  two  nations. 
Enfrland  has  been  <fuided  entiri'h'  bv  self-interest.  Napoleon's 
conduct  toward  the  so  called  Latin  nations,  at  least,  has  been 
marked  by  an  unheard-of  gcm-rosit}-.  The  Morocco  affair  has 
been  the  finishing  stroke.  That  the  Spaidards  were  justifiable 
in  di'uianding  satisfaction  from  the  Moors,  to  an}-  extent,  will 
scarcely  l»e  questioned.      Vet  so  determined   were   the  English 


SPANISH    POLITICAL    DKSIRES.  425 

to  maintain  sole  command  of  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  that  an 
ai'mcd  intervention  on  their  part  Avas  impending,  and  would, 
doubtless,  have  occurred  had  it  not  been  for  the  pi'ompt  action 
of  the  Frencli  in  sending  a  fleet  and  an  army  near  the  seat  of 
the  contlict.  Unfortunately  for  the  rejmtation  of  England, 
about  this  time  occurred  the  San  Juan  diHiculty,  rather  a  high- 
handed proceeding  all  must  admit.  The  contrast  between  her 
deportment  toward  Spain  and  that  toward  powerful,  belli- 
cose America,  was  a  matter  of  sarcastic  laughter  to  all  Europe. 
At  present,  therefore,  French  influence  is  in  the  ascendant,  but 
it  is  not  in  the  Iberian  heart  to  like  either  of  these  nations. 

Now  the  Spanish  have  two  political  desires  to  gratify,  for 
which  they  would  make  any  sacrifice,  however  unreasonable. 
The  first  is  the  expulsion  of  the  English  from  the  Eock  of  Gib- 
raltar. No  American  can  comprehend  what  a  continual  ej-e- 
sore  this  fortress  is  to  every  inhabitant  of  the  Peninsula, 
except  the  smugglers  at  Konda.  Imagine  that  the  British,  in 
some  successful  foray,  had  obtained  possession  of  Key  West, 
commanding  the  coasting  commerce  between  the  South  and  the 
East,  and  blockading  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf,  and  we/  can 
appreciate  the  scowling  countenance  of  the  old  Castillian  when 
he  first  sees  the  British  flag  waving  over  the  soil  of  Spain,  for 
Gibraltar  is  always  so  described  in  Spanish  geographies.  No 
length  of  time  can  ever  reconcile  them  to  this  occupation,  and 
if  a  successful  part}'  were  to  scale  the  rock,  as  they  almost  suc- 
ceeded in  doing  one  night,  the  act  would  bo  enthusiastically 
sustained  by  the  whole  nation,  and  its  heroes  loaded  with  the 
highest  rewards  which  the  Govern nient  could  invent. 

The  second  Avish  of  the  Spaniards  is  the  re-union  of  the 
wliole  Peninsula  under  one  Government.  How  two  people  dif- 
fering in  so  many  respects,  and  agreeing  in  so  many  others  as 
the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  could  liave  sprung  up  side  b}* 
side,  and  remained  in  a  state  of  quasi  enmity  in  the  Peninsula, 
is  a  m3'ster3^  The  difficulty  of  intercommunication  has  had 
much  to  do  with  keeping  them  apart,  for  highways  in  Spain 
must  be  made  by  the  Government  or  not  be  made  at  all,  such 
is  the  enormous  outlay'  requisite.  Yet,  to  look  at  the  map.  tlie 
country  lying  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the  Tagus  and  the 
Guadiana  woubl  seem  mucli  more  naturally  conn<'cted  with 
the  countr}-  lying  about  the  mouth  of  these  rivers  than  with 
Andalusia,  which    is    separated    Ity  the    lofty    Sierra    Morena. 


42G  SI'AIN    AM)    TIIK    .SPANIARDS. 

The  Spaniards  are  unanimous  for  the  union  of  the  two,  ami  a 
majority  of  the  Portuguese  could  be  converted  to  the  same 
l)olic3-,  but  the  interests  of  England  render  her  an  active  anil 
uncompromising  opponent  of  the  project.  Portugal,  as  a  por- 
tion of  Spain,  would  be  reall}'  independent  of  England;  as  a 
nominal!}'  independent  State,  England,  the  predominating  mar- 
itime power,  is  her  sole  efficient  protector,  and  a  safe  entrance 
is  thus  secured  to  British  troops  at  any  moment  the}'  may 
choose  to  make  a  diversion  against  Spain.  The  inherent  diffi- 
culties about  the  satisfactory  arrangement  of  the  details  of 
the  project  are  so  great,  that  very  little  diplomacy  is  requisite 
to  baffle  an}-  scheme  that  may  be  pro}>osed. 

I  have  been  frequently  told  by  Spaniards,  and.  I  believe, 
such  could  be  made  the  general  sentiment  of  the  nation,  that 
our  energetic  aid  to  the  successful  accomi)lishment  of  either  of 
these  projects  would  reconcile  them  to  the  transfer  of  Cuba, 
provided,  of  course,  that  the  Cubans  were  willing  to  be  trans- 
ferred. We  should  thus  incur  the  mortal  hatred  of  the  "  mother 
country"  which  we  have  enjoyed  for  a  century  past,  and,  in 
all  probability,  will  enjoy  for  a  century  to  come,  for  even  natu- 
ral parents  are  pained  to  see  their  progeny  step  forth  into  the 
world;  but  the  grief  of  a  step-mother  must  be  intense,  when 
the  rebellious  infant  not  only  makes  his  own  clearing  and  sets 
up  for  himself,  but  bids  fair  to  get  along  better  than  the  good 
lady  herself  On  the  other  hand,  we  would  have  the  satisfac- 
tion of  acting  a  manly,  dangerous  ])art,  and  of  generously 
aiding  a  noble  nation,  that  has  al\va\s  \\vvn  our  liiend,  to  re- 
assume  her  i)lace  at  the  great  council  table  of  the  world.  In 
the  mean  time  we  might  regulate  our  little  matters  over  hero 
to  our  satisfaction.  It  is  not  probable  tliut  the  Emperor  Napo- 
leon would  maintain  England  in  her  opposition  to  America. 
If  such  should  unfortunately  be  the  case,  the  issue  must  be 
met  in  a  suitable  uianner,  by  force  if  we  bo  strong  enough, 
otherwise  by  dii)lomacy,  but  met  persistently,  for  no  plan  has 
been  suggested  tor  many  years  so  fraught  with  danger  to  the 
real  independence  of  nations  as  the  entente  cordiale,  with  its 
English  interpretation.  Napoleon  has  used  it  only  as  a  defen- 
sive means  of  protecting  nationalities;  he  thus  secured  inde- 
pendence to  Turkey,  and  attempted  to  do  so  to  Italy.  Whereas, 
the  English  statesmen  have  regarded  it  as  an  offensive  organi- 
zation  for  the  general  purpose  of  regulating  the  world  to  suit 


FTLTEUSTKRINO.  427 

their  own  interests  or  fancies,     linssia  was  to  1)0  driven  to  the 
wall ;  the  peace  of  Villafranca  was  a  shameful  treachery,  be- 
cause Austria  was  not  crushed.     China  ought  to  be  invaded 
by  joint  forces  and  annexed,  and  a  good  curb  bridle  should  bo 
placed  upon  Young  America,  with  one  shank  resting  upon  the 
Island  of  San  Juan.     Thus  all  the  barbarians,  east  and  west, 
Avould   be  held  in  check.     Should  internal  difhculties  arise  in 
the  United  States,  it  is  possible  they  might  find  a  pretext  for 
interfering.     And  all  this,  as  their  orators  proclaim,  is  required 
by   the   interests   of  civilization !      Anglo-Saxon    civilization ! 
Certainly  our  civilization  is  bad  enough,  but  it  is  a  doubtful 
matter  whether  we  Avould  be  benefited  by  exchanging  it  for 
that  which  flourishes  beyond  the  sea.     The  sympathies  of  the 
American  people  in  behalf  of  Russia  during  the  Crimean  war 
were  in   obedience   to   the  instinct  which  frequently  prompts 
nations  to  proceed  in  the  right  direction,  when  their  reasoning 
powers  would  probably  have  led  them  astray.     It  is  almost  to 
be  regretted  that  we  did  not  take  a  more  decided  part  in  that 
contest.     Eussia   and  America  are   allies  by  the  force  of  our 
position,  and  there  is  scarcely  any  conjuncture  of  affairs  which 
could  place  our  interests   in  opposition,  Avhile    we  seem  con- 
demned to  an  eternal  enmity  with  England.     So  long  as  their 
feeling  to  us  is  silent,  it  matters  little,  but  no  manifestation  of 
it  should  be  permitted.     In  truth,  the  relation  which  America 
occupies  to  England  is  that  of  a  great  Mississippi,  daily  receiv- 
ing fresh  accretions,  on  its  way  to  the  ocean,  and  yet  daily 
im^peded  in  its  course  by  little  dams,  that  our  soi-disant  cousins, 
with    an  industry  w^orthy  of  a  better  cause,  arc  continually 
erecting  in  every  quarter  of  the  globe  to  impede  our  progress. 
In  youth  it  may  not  be  good  policy  to  complain  too  loudly,  but 
so  soon  as  the  nation  has  attained  full  size,  it  seems  to  me  that 
wc  should  put  an  end  to  the  system.     It  is  not  only  our  policy 
but  our  duty  to  refrain  from  all  participation  in  European  i)oli- 
tics.     Their  ideas  of  liberty  and  dospotism  are,  hap])ily,  un- 
known here.     But  we  must  enforce  a  reciprocity,  aiul,  al)0vc 
all,  unsparingly  destroy  anything  like  a  coalition.     Now.  the 
filibustering  upon   Cuba   has  been   the  excuse  for  the  present 
one  so  far  as  it  concerns  us,  and  the  most  appropriate  revenge 
would  be   to  acquire  the  island   at  the  expense  of  the  guilty 
party  herself.     It  might  be  diHicult  to  find  a  reasonable  subject 
for  quarrel,  yet  wc  have  been  respectively  so  much  iu  the  habit 


428  SPAIN    AM>    TIIK    SPANIARDS. 

of  spcakin<r  ferociously  of  each  other,  tliat  one  nuLcht  prohaMv 
be  discovered.  The  sie^jcc  of  Gibraltar  wouhl  ccrtainl}'  be  no 
trifle,  but  modern  ini]irovemcnts  increase  every  (hiy  the  chance 
of  success.  No  masonry  can  witlistand  the  rifle  cannon  or  the 
tremendous  bombs  that  are  coming  into  fashion.  The  Rock  of 
Gibraltar  might  defy  an  escahidc,  but  it  is  not  a  Sevastopol. 
There  is  no  earth  for  works,  and  there  are  no  engineers  in  the 
English  army  to  make  tliem,  as  the  Russian  war  conclusively 
proved,  so  that  it  could  l)e  taken  sooner  or  later,  and  six 
months  in  camp  on  the  Bay  of  Algcciras,  within  three  days' 
horseback  of  the  marvels  of  Andalusia,  would  not  be  the  most 
disagreeable  lot  that  could  befall  an  Amei'icun  volunteer. 

Notwithstanding  tlu'  liltlc  disagreement  we  have  had  with 
Spain,  I  am  of  the  oi)inion  that  Amci-ieans  are  better  reci'ived 
here  than  in  any  other  counti-y  of  Europe,  even  than  in  France. 
For  some  reason  or  otluT  oui-  jjositjon  thi-oughoiit  the  world  is 
not  so  good  as  it  was  at  an  eai'lier  date.  Perhaps  they  know 
us  better.  Formerly,  to  be  an  American  was.  of  itself,  a  pass- 
port; now,  it  is  rather  the  contrary,  and  the  traveller  finds  that 
the  announcement  causes  a  slight  prepossession  against  him. 
If  Eui-opeans  are  questioned  as  to  the  cause  of  this  j)rejudico, 
it  is  generally  found  traceable  to  two  circumstances.  The  first 
is  the  character  of  some  of  the  men  who  are  sent  abroad  to 
represent  us  in  an  official  capacity.  This,  however,  is  much 
exaggerated.  The  majority  of  them,  though  not  men  of  great 
educali(jn  or  elegant  manners,  are  pleasant  enough  in  their 
wa}',  and  good-hearted,  unatt'ected  gentlemen.  Our  own  news- 
pa])ers  are  full  of  com]>laint  on  the  suliject,  written  frecpiently 
by  individuals  wIhj  have  sought  to  use  the  eml)assy  as  a  means 
of  forcing  them  into  good  soeiety,  mikI  who  avenge  themselves 
by  abusing  the  minister,  when,  \nn)v  fellow,  he  is  frequently 
quite  guiltless,  for  how  in  the  world  could  he  give  them  the 
entl'ee  into  fashionalde  circles  if  he  has  it  nut  hinisi'lfy  Their 
ignorance  of  the  language  of  the  countr}'  is  much  harped  u])on, 
whereas  nothing  has  saved  us  from  so  many  dilliculties  as  this 
verj' ignorance.  An  incompetent  or  evil  disposed  person  is  com- 
jiaratively  harmless  if  he  be  denied  the  power  of  speech,  and 
if  the  Government  will  send  such  men  abroad,  ignorance  of  the 
language  should  be  an  iiidispensalde  qualification.  Another 
mistaken  idea  is  that  the  minister  should  live  in  grand  stvlc, 
than  which  there  can  be  no  greater  eri-or.     The  Governmenl  of 


OUR    CHARACTER    IN    SPAIN.  429 

the  United  States  will  never  consent  to  put  our  representatives 
on  a  footing  willi  the  ambassadors  of  great  nations,  who,  to  a 
Ijrineel}'  fortune,  unite  salaries  of  fift}'  thousand  dollars  a  year, 
and  it  is  well  known  that  those  of  our  ministers  who  have  re- 
flected most  credit  upon  the  nation  were  persons  of  very  mode- 
rate means,  living  in  the  simplicity  and  integrity  of  true 
republicanism,  and  therefore  depending  for  position  entirely 
upon  social  and  intellectual  accomplishments,  which,  in  our 
country,  are  not  often  united  with  largo  fortunes.  It  has 
always  seemed  to  me,  therefore,  that  our  diplomatic  corps  is 
far  more  respectably  tilled  than  we  generally  suppose.  There 
are  exceptions,  and  it  must  be  aihnitted  that  you  do  occa- 
sionally meet  with  a  person  whom  ^-ou  would  be  surprised  to 
find  in  a  gentleman's  house  at  home,  and  whom  jou  are 
horrified  to  hear  held  up  as  a  representative  of  society  in 
America.  The  only  ]M-aetical  remedy  for  this  evil  is  to  abolish 
the  corps  altogether,  and  to  send  envoys  extraordinary  when 
an^'thing  especial  is  to  be  done.  These  men  would  necessarily 
be  fit  for  their  place,  and  the  ordinary  duties  might  be  dis- 
charged b}-  consuls-general,  quite  as  effectually,  in  the  majority 
of  cases,  as  at  present. 

The  other  great  cause  of  complaint  is  the  private  conduct  of 
some  of  our  countrymen.  It  is  utterly  impossible  to  make 
Europeans  comprehend  that  pecuniary  competence  or  even 
great  wealth  is  not  evidence  of  education  or  social  position  in 
America.  Any  person  who  has  means  enough  to  travel  for 
pleasure  is  supposed  to  be  a  fair  specimen  of  the  better  class  at 
home,  and  inasmuch  as  some  of  our  fellow  citizens  at  Paris  in- 
dulge rather  freely  in  slings,  cocktails,  whiskey-straits,  cobblers, 
brandj'-smashes,  white-lions  and  similar  "  refreshers,"  and  ex- 
pectorate copiously  u]ion  the  carpet,  the  interior  of  jtrivatc 
houses  in  America  is  su])posed  to  resemble,  on  a  small  scale,  the 
larger  bar-rooms,  and  our  onl}-  music  to  be  the  national  oath 
uttered  in  every  note  of  the  gamut.  But  in  the  nii<lst  of  all 
this  hoggishness,  there  is  a  certain  foundation  of  good  feeling 
and  strong  character,  and  1  can  vouch  for  mj'  own  experience 
that,  with  one  exception,  I  have  never  known  a  deliberately 
mean  action  committed  by  an  American,  and  that.  I  regret  to 
say,  was  by  a  person  Avhoso  position  under  the  Government 
would  have  led  me  far  from  such  a  suspicion. 

The  American  character  has,  fortunately,  suffered  little  in 


430  SPAIN    AM)    TllK    Sl'AMAUDS. 

Spain  from  cither  of  those  causes.  Our  ministers  have,  for  the 
most  part,  maintained  a  respectable  standing.  The  social  po- 
sition and  personal  influence  of  Mr.  Barringer  and  his  accom- 
plished lady,  in  1852,  were  such  as  the  country  might  be  proud 
of,  and  though  Mr.  Soulc  did  arouse  the  hatred  of  the  nation, 
yet  his  unquestioned  talents  and  elegant  manners  secure<l  their 
recpect.  As  few  of  our  countrymen  M'ander  among  the  harron 
Sierras  and  scanty  2^os(id(is  of  the  inland,  we  ai-e  received  at 
least  upon  terms  of  fair  curiosity.  They  will  make  the  mis- 
take of  calling  us  Anglo-Americans,  wliich  I  utterly  repudiated, 
claiming  to  hail  neither  from  Spanish  America  nor  from  Anglo 
America,  but  from  American  America — a  distinction,  in  my 
opinion,  to  be  rigidly  enforced,  as  the  populations  on  this  con- 
tinent, which  are  of  pure  Spanish,  French  or  English  descent, 
are  utterly  insignificant  and  have  never  made  any  solid  pro- 
gress. Canada,  by  the  force  of  our  example,  has  commenced 
to  make  some  improvement,  but  the  colonies  farther  removed 
from  our  settlements  furnish  striking  examples  of  the  rule. 
Otherwise,  I  have  never  found  cause  to  complain  of  the  deport- 
ment of  Spaniards  toward  us.  Indeed,  if  an  educated  Ameri- 
can will  resolve  to  give  up  creature  comforts  and  to  take  Sjiain 
and  Spaniards  as  he  finds  them,  there  is  no  more  agreeable 
country  in  the  world.  For  my  own  part  I  confess  to  a  decided 
partiality  for  many  things  in  it.  I  like  the  flowery  vales  of 
Andalusia  and  the  tawny  mountains  of  Aragon.  I  like  to 
kneel  in  its  Cathedrals  ami  to  promenade  by  moonlight  upon 
its  Pascos.  I  like  to  ride  in  its  diligences  when  I  have  a  place 
in  the  borlina.  I  like  its  pi-ancing  horses  and  })awiiig  bulls.  I 
like  its  fandangos  and  its  olcs.  its  guitars  and  its  wild,  jjlaintive 
melodies.  I  like  its  oranges  and  its  pomegranates.  I  like  its 
marble  courts  and  s])arkling  fountains.  I  like  its  dry,  invigo- 
rating climate.  I  like  its  language.  I  like  its  punctilious, 
brave  and  elegant  men.  But  far  above  all  these  do  i  ailore  its 
women — the  immortal,  the  ever-beautiful  I 
Con  que  adiosi  y  que  se  descanse  bien. 


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